Double check your chain line is straight with your new hub and freewheel. May be as simple as a spacer or two on the cranks/bb. You could also try a chain guide and tensioner combo.
Nice to see the ex511 rim. My bike shop just built me up some wheels recently with the 511s after I did a ton of research about how strong they are. Serving me well so far.
I kinda bought it by accident. I saw the video from Fanatik bike Co torture testing a DT Swiss rim and thought it was the ex511. It's out it was a fr561 or w/e. But I hope the 511 is just as good
@@EvansMTBSaga from my research it looked pretty close to the fr560. Some top enduro guys thrashed the 511s and they seem to hold up well. Dt has kind of superseded both though with the new Fr541.
@@bthomas518 cool to hear these wheels have treated you right... I absolutely love mine with 350 hubs. there's a lot more I could have mentioned as to why I chose this set but your reply pretty much sums it up 🤘
Nice job. Don't know what BB style that frame has but now just head on over to First Components and find one of there EBBs that will fit your frame and get rid of that tensioner .
The Surly Singleator comes with a secondary spring for reversing the tension to upwards instead of downwards, and the tension of it is tuneable. Both of these adjustments combined, paired with a good chainline should make the setup much more reliable.
For the chain tensioning I would recommend an eccentric bottom bracket. Its a chain tensioning system that uses oval shaped bearing cups to chain length and apply tension, plus they look really minimal and clean. Wheels mfg makes some really good models that fit most dub cranks.
I came here to say eccentric bottom bracket. Seconded. Also, there was a comment about minding your chainline, which is also important. The ultimate is to have dropouts on (a new/different) frame with horizontal adjustment.
Because it’s a hardtail, you don’t need a chain tensioner if you have the right chain length. I recommend playing around with a half link or 2 to get the proper chain tension
@@MrJob91 not really. With a through axle obviously there is no movement for the hub. This means that what I assume you were thinking is that you can't adjust the tension. This is true but you can still run a single speed, no tensioner setup by using a "unicorn gear" these can be found by putting the chain stay length into an online calculator as well as the desired gear ratio. This will then calculate the perfect gears meaning no tensioner. Also as op mentioned, you can use a half link or 2 or even a full half link chain to increase the adjustability. Finally I'm pretty sure you can see at the start of the video there is no tensioner so this proves it as well.
I did this on a different hardtail. Two things that were successful: correct offset crank and shortest chain length possible with the tensioner pushing from the bottom of the chain (pushing up). Good luck, you can get it!
Paul hubs, WI freewheel and a DT rim? Paired with black butted spokes and that's quite the wheel! The Park truing stand is designed to be bolted to the end of a workbench so much of it protrudes past the workbench for ease of use. You'll have a MUCH easier time tightening loose nipples if you seat the spokes in the hub flanges before beginning. All that spoke bend is caused by the spoke elbows not being properly cold-set into the flanges. And boiled linseed oil is the best spoke nipple lube/thread locker. This will greatly reduce nipple problems when you're reaching final tensions. Just be careful with linseed - soiled rags will spontaneously combust and burn your shop/house down! As mentioned below, I'd toss the chain tensioner and use an eccentric BB if you can.
Evan, been watching your videos since the Nucleus. Kudos to you for putting out informative and entertaining content. You deserve 10 X the subscriptions. Great work!
You can buy what I think are called eccentric bottom brackets which means that you don't need a chain tensioner at all. Pretty elegant solution. Also can a single speed actually be good for going up hills that aren't too steep.
I use a fully stretched deraileur as a tensioner on singlespeed. No shifter or cable. You can align it and fix it into position with the H and L screws so it doesn't move. Haven't had the chain come off yet.
Get a dual pulley chain tensioner or get a half link and ditch the tensioner all together. Also, when it comes to freewheels, I always just tighten them a little bit and let it spin on the rest of the way with the first couple pedal strokes, I've never seen someone use the tool to tighten it.
The EX Rim came with DT Swiss Squorx Nipples, i suggest getting a DT Swiss Squorx "Driver" / "Key". There is a reason why torx is so aswesome. If you dont want the properiatrty tool you could also try to get Nipple Wrenches that not only put on stress on two sides of the square but also grab a portion on all sides. I dont know how to describe them, but they are almost closed squared with only a small spacing to get it on the spoke first and then slide it from the top on the nipple. With the normal nipple wrenches different tolerances could F up and round the nipple. This Vid is what i love about wheelbuilding, it opens up a new world, geeky stuff that is not found as a whole wheel on the market. Way to go 💪
Sweet wheel build! That bike definitely needs a Marzocchi Z1 or a red Lyrik. Pretty sweet build so far. Loving the gold accents. Will definitely be adding some to my next bike
Over the years I have watched you work on forks, shocks, brakes, cranks, etc. Building a wheel has to be the studliest thing you have ever done on your channel.
Lacing up my own wheels has been easily the most rewarding part of my own full build. I didn't get a stand but have a good eye and went with the bike and diy stuff and finally brought it to the lbs to check over! I saved money and made a bombproof wheelset! Dt350 jbend boost 28h and raceface ARC rims. 54t upgrade and amazing stuff! A great wheelset is an expensive but noticeable upgrade. Maybe 2nd to a dropper IMHO.
Recently had to relace my rear wheel. Kept popping the cheap spokes. Replaced all of them with the sapim "strong" single butted 13g/14g spokes. Emtb running a good bit of power through the mid drive so something stronger was definitely needed.
Trick build of wheel used thick string as spokes on front wheel then cycled little wobbly but did short journey. Top spokes take most of the stress very interesting
Reverse components or the SB one single speed tensioner. If its hard to get either of them another option is to grab a 7sp dh derailleur and chuck a short piece of shifter cable in it to hold tension
i'd reccommend you to buy an eccentric bottom bracket so that you dont have to use a chain tentioner! also use half links (they make for a stronger chain)
Coming from freestyle street bmx I second the half link, and the bb idea seems like something Evan would be into. Plus it fits into his new budget because we're talking under 200 in parts
Thanks for making this video. I hope to start building my own wheels for my bikes soon. Personally I never have had a chain come off my SS MTB’s but they are all SS frames with sliding dropouts or EBB’s.
Try a half bmx link chain, you might be able to ditch the tensioner entirely. Also, most people don’t know about half links, so it could make for a cool video segment
You might also consider the First or Phil EBB. May still need a half link to get the tension right though. I spent awhile figuring out a “magic ratio” on mine and was able to get away with no tensioner, though mine is looser than ideal. DMR tensioner is OK as another option.
Been SSing for 25 years. Run the ridiculously cheap Shimano Deore Tensioner if you want best bang for the buck, or a Paul Melvin if you want to spend. Unless you run a tiny rear cog, the Shimano will work really well. Or upgrade to a proper SS frame with adjustable drop outs ;)
what helped me on my dirt jumper was using 11 speed chain. It isn't as strong as the single speed, but it holds on much much better. You should try that, you don't even have to buy expensive one
I wonder if the green has better engagement. I was luckily able to order mine off Amazon with prime shipping. From the White Ind site, it says there's a wait list 🤦♂️
the soulcraft convert will allow you to set the tension as you like without having to worry about a spring. however im a fan on fixed chainstay setups just going with a gear combination that arrives at the correct tension.
The ztto tensioner is actually adjustable. I had an issue where it would skip under max power but I adjusted the tensioner and that fixed it. The tensioner is cheap too.
i had a shimano alfine and it was very good but my dumbass didnt know how to use it so i left it in my basement and its gone now, but its a solid and cheap tensioner
I definitely appreciate this hardtail hardtail series you’re doing, as I’m a hardtail enthusiast. The one thing I dislike is that you switched from 2.8 tires to 2.6. If you ever do switch back to 2.8, I recommend trying the Maxxis Rekon plus.
Those 2.8's were really really nice on the trail. I'm curious how these 2.6 will work on the trail. I have one final video left on this particular hardtail build so I'll keep you updated
@@EvansMTBSaga much appreciated! I’m currently trying to build up my channel, and my main bike that I use is my 2022 Rocky Mountain growler 40. After I saw your hardcore hardtail, I decided to convert mine from 29” to 27.5x2.8. To say it’s a fun bike would be an understatement
Half link is a possibility or a fixed tensioner as you don’t need slung loaded as your not running rear suspension on that bike so chain growth isn’t an issue
Paul Components are great! I am using their brakes for my bikepacking bike and the beauty of the hand made machining is astonishing! Plus they are pretty local to me :)
bro if you dont wanna put a chain tensioner, you can put a half link chain, it is more precise for have a good chain tension without chain tensioner, with a tensioner the reverse components is the good one
0:44 am I seeing a crooked chainline? also making sure chain thickness matches the sprockets.. other then that, I say find a frame with sliding dropouts. you can mix wheels adjust chain tension and also wheel base! I love my regular honzo , and esd .
Get a tensioner that wraps the chain more around the freewheel, pushes up into the freewheel rather than below, your chain is skipping over the sprocket...
DMR chain tensioner for HT, the other style work for full suspension single speed for chain growth but for hardtail MTB you dont have that so simple solution is the dmr one and your bike will be totally silent and it won't bounce around like the spring loaded ones thus no chain slap.
I have a few single speed specific hubs and they definitely have a cleaner look and build up a stronger wheel. I’m not sure if it would be that noticeable but I noticed that my SS wheels don’t get out of true as much as my geared hub wheels. I also believe this is why Pivot and many other manufacturers started using the new Boost plus 157mm standard and obviously most DH specific bike use wider hubs. I have a friend that raced Foes bikes and it had a 160mm hub.
damn those salughter grid tires bring back good memories. i had 27.5/3.0 ones and only reason I stopped using them is because I road onroad and offroad so I felt the rolling resistance more. now use debarons but I would still get them again
Just installed a slaughter on the rear of my hard tail. It’s better in the back for trails but if your riding hardpact I don’t see how it’ll hurt in the front.
Get a proper SB ONE chain tensioner. Slopestyle riders run them on full sus bikes and the retention is rock solid. Make sure to get the good version thouh, the cheaper one has a weaker spring and can occasionally create problems.
Its pretty cool seeing you do jumps. I can definitely tell your an ex bmx racer. I used to race bmx in AZ also. Down in Lake Havasu and Parker AZ. That was back in the late 90s.
Not all wheels make a scalene triangle these days, most rims these days come with an offset spike hole design that aligns the spike holes more in the center of the hub making them a lot stronger.
What offsets do they do on the rim? Maybe like 3mm? The drive side flange will be offset 30mm. I was shocked at the discrepancy of tension needed for drive side and non drive side when I switched to mtb
@@EvansMTBSaga right it isn’t a whole ton of offset but it’s enough to give a good balance between stiffness and flexibility, I have race face AR 30 wheels on my bike and I haven’t had any issues or haven’t noticed any bad glazing or anything. I would definitely recommend trying some on your Meta
Hey Evan I’d suggest getting yourself a reverse colab chain tensioner works super well at stopping the chain hoping of because it has two jockey wheels instead of one like you currently have hope this helps
Not sure if anyone mentioned this yet but it looks like you laced this like one would lace a disc brake front wheel with both sides of braking spokes elbow out. Shimano and several other manufacturers recommend driving spokes to be elbow out on the drive side. Probably wont make a big difference either way. Google disc wheel lacing for a diagram and further explanation.
I can’t recommend enough a 2-pulley tensioner of some sort like others mentioned… speaking from experience. Or you can try finding that sweet spot without a tensioner, there’s a chain inch and cog size calculator out there somewhere online
You install chain guards on both sides of the single sprocket. If you insert an aluminum guard larger in diameter than the sprocket, the problem will be solved.
Bmx front chainring and half link chain.more chance of getting good chain length. Check out what sam pilgrim used on one if his old videos. He used a tensioner but i cant remember what brand. Your making life difficult swap your frame for a dirt jump frame with drop outs job done.
You should have went for the white industries eno trials freewheel because it has more engagement points because your other bikes have much more engagement points and it wouldn't feel as weird going from a bike to an other
MTB wheels having lateral flex in corners and rock gardens is a GOOD thing to an extent. you don't want a wheel to be so stiff that it cannot flex whatsoever because you will break that wheel extremely fast. some of the strongest things in the world like plane wings have an innate ability to flex because that reduces the overall load on the structure and MTB wheels are no different. also that crunching you're hearing as you pedal is likely due to improper chain line or the chain is too tight. people in the comments have already mentioned it but reverse components makes a single speed tensioner that would help the issue.
Oh yeah this was 3 cross pattern. And I picked up the electrical tape over the rim tape trick from Syd and Mackey. It's a great solution to prevent the gradual PSI loss from having just rim tape. Now I hardly lose air pressure
IMHO, you're actually better off using a derailleur instead of a tensioner even on a single speed. You can adjust a derailleur to have the perfect alignment to your freewheel gear and the side to side spring actually dampens any shock that may take your chain off track.
Double check your chain line is straight with your new hub and freewheel. May be as simple as a spacer or two on the cranks/bb. You could also try a chain guide and tensioner combo.
i'd recommend the reverse components chain tensioner. it doesn't seem that you can go wrong with it.
That's right. My friend also bought super hard spring form hardware store for like 3$ and it's so fvckin tense rn 0_0. no way it's gonna fall off.
I've used a Surly singleator tensioner pushing the chain up instead of down for better chain wrap. Should work great, too
Reverse is the best
Thanks. I'm gonna check out the reverse.
I have a kindernay vii IGH, and the tensioner that they supply is garbage.
Nice to see the ex511 rim. My bike shop just built me up some wheels recently with the 511s after I did a ton of research about how strong they are. Serving me well so far.
I kinda bought it by accident. I saw the video from Fanatik bike Co torture testing a DT Swiss rim and thought it was the ex511. It's out it was a fr561 or w/e. But I hope the 511 is just as good
@@EvansMTBSaga from my research it looked pretty close to the fr560. Some top enduro guys thrashed the 511s and they seem to hold up well. Dt has kind of superseded both though with the new Fr541.
@@jaycarneygiants haha I just did the exact same thing
I just got a set of ex511s, was a no brainer with welded 30mm rims. Bomb proof
@@bthomas518 cool to hear these wheels have treated you right... I absolutely love mine with 350 hubs. there's a lot more I could have mentioned as to why I chose this set but your reply pretty much sums it up 🤘
I'd try using a half link to try to eliminate a chain tensioner completely. Otherwise I've heard good things about the reverse components tensioner.
How does that work for narrow wide chainring?
@@hindesite it doesn't!
@@hindesite idk if narrow wide is a necessity for this bike at this point
@@hindesite he won't need a narrow wide if he gets his chain length correct.
@@mcndjxlefnd won't need one, but one is already fitted. So to use a half link he'd have to change his chainring, which was kind of my point.
I bet editing this video took longer than building the set of wheels. Good stuff mate.
Oh absolutely. Building a wheel goes pretty quickly. I hope more people try it
@@EvansMTBSaga if possible please make a how to guide of how to choose correct spoke length! Most of the videos I see only only confuse me more 😅
@@MTBndMore I have not yet seen a video on it, but at the shop, I work at we use the spoke calculator from sapim. it is pretty straightforward to use
@@EvansMTBSaga please make a video on choosing apple and lenth
@@EvansMTBSaga *spoke
Those specialized slaughter tires are by far my favorite tires I have ever used. I have been mountain biking since 2004-2005 when I started too.
Nice job. Don't know what BB style that frame has but now just head on over to First Components and find one of there EBBs that will fit your frame and get rid of that tensioner .
The Surly Singleator comes with a secondary spring for reversing the tension to upwards instead of downwards, and the tension of it is tuneable. Both of these adjustments combined, paired with a good chainline should make the setup much more reliable.
For the chain tensioning I would recommend an eccentric bottom bracket. Its a chain tensioning system that uses oval shaped bearing cups to chain length and apply tension, plus they look really minimal and clean. Wheels mfg makes some really good models that fit most dub cranks.
I came here to say eccentric bottom bracket. Seconded. Also, there was a comment about minding your chainline, which is also important.
The ultimate is to have dropouts on (a new/different) frame with horizontal adjustment.
@@davidowle3772 I came her to say beltdrive. If there's no chain, can't loose it. Running a belt with eccentric dropouts, love it.
Because it’s a hardtail, you don’t need a chain tensioner if you have the right chain length. I recommend playing around with a half link or 2 to get the proper chain tension
Depends on the style of dropouts unfortunately.
@@MrJob91 not really. With a through axle obviously there is no movement for the hub. This means that what I assume you were thinking is that you can't adjust the tension. This is true but you can still run a single speed, no tensioner setup by using a "unicorn gear" these can be found by putting the chain stay length into an online calculator as well as the desired gear ratio. This will then calculate the perfect gears meaning no tensioner. Also as op mentioned, you can use a half link or 2 or even a full half link chain to increase the adjustability. Finally I'm pretty sure you can see at the start of the video there is no tensioner so this proves it as well.
I just appreciate how you say what a lot of us are thinking.. “that’s park tools for ya” like; seriously… it’s an injection molded piece.
0:27 spokes don't lace to the brake rotor mount last time I looked.
Lol
I did this on a different hardtail. Two things that were successful: correct offset crank and shortest chain length possible with the tensioner pushing from the bottom of the chain (pushing up). Good luck, you can get it!
Paul hubs, WI freewheel and a DT rim? Paired with black butted spokes and that's quite the wheel!
The Park truing stand is designed to be bolted to the end of a workbench so much of it protrudes past the workbench for ease of use.
You'll have a MUCH easier time tightening loose nipples if you seat the spokes in the hub flanges before beginning. All that spoke bend is caused by the spoke elbows not being properly cold-set into the flanges.
And boiled linseed oil is the best spoke nipple lube/thread locker. This will greatly reduce nipple problems when you're reaching final tensions.
Just be careful with linseed - soiled rags will spontaneously combust and burn your shop/house down!
As mentioned below, I'd toss the chain tensioner and use an eccentric BB if you can.
Definitely recommend the reverse components chain tensioner, I run one on my full suspension 🤙🏻
Evan, been watching your videos since the Nucleus. Kudos to you for putting out informative and entertaining content. You deserve 10 X the subscriptions. Great work!
You can buy what I think are called eccentric bottom brackets which means that you don't need a chain tensioner at all.
Pretty elegant solution. Also can a single speed actually be good for going up hills that aren't too steep.
I use a fully stretched deraileur as a tensioner on singlespeed. No shifter or cable. You can align it and fix it into position with the H and L screws so it doesn't move. Haven't had the chain come off yet.
A half link chain is what you're looking for. Built a single speed with no chain tensioner or sliding rear axle and the chain is nice and tight.
Get a dual pulley chain tensioner or get a half link and ditch the tensioner all together. Also, when it comes to freewheels, I always just tighten them a little bit and let it spin on the rest of the way with the first couple pedal strokes, I've never seen someone use the tool to tighten it.
The EX Rim came with DT Swiss Squorx Nipples, i suggest getting a DT Swiss Squorx "Driver" / "Key". There is a reason why torx is so aswesome. If you dont want the properiatrty tool you could also try to get Nipple Wrenches that not only put on stress on two sides of the square but also grab a portion on all sides. I dont know how to describe them, but they are almost closed squared with only a small spacing to get it on the spoke first and then slide it from the top on the nipple. With the normal nipple wrenches different tolerances could F up and round the nipple. This Vid is what i love about wheelbuilding, it opens up a new world, geeky stuff that is not found as a whole wheel on the market. Way to go 💪
Thanks for all the info about the hubs and the different triangles lol good to know!!
Sweet wheel build! That bike definitely needs a Marzocchi Z1 or a red Lyrik. Pretty sweet build so far. Loving the gold accents. Will definitely be adding some to my next bike
Its a good day when he posts
Over the years I have watched you work on forks, shocks, brakes, cranks, etc. Building a wheel has to be the studliest thing you have ever done on your channel.
What are you talking about? I've built several wheels dating back to my first few videos
Lacing up my own wheels has been easily the most rewarding part of my own full build. I didn't get a stand but have a good eye and went with the bike and diy stuff and finally brought it to the lbs to check over! I saved money and made a bombproof wheelset!
Dt350 jbend boost 28h and raceface ARC rims. 54t upgrade and amazing stuff! A great wheelset is an expensive but noticeable upgrade. Maybe 2nd to a dropper IMHO.
I'm glad you build your own wheels! It's super fun and you can know every bolt and screw on your bike is tightened by you
@@EvansMTBSaga did you end up using brass nipples?
I use a dmr simple tension seeker, it’s a fixed position tensioner and also you can use it to push the chain up rather than pull it down
“When’s the last time you heard those terms” haha
Nice hub
Haha thanks man!
Recently had to relace my rear wheel. Kept popping the cheap spokes. Replaced all of them with the sapim "strong" single butted 13g/14g spokes. Emtb running a good bit of power through the mid drive so something stronger was definitely needed.
bin the chain tensioner and get a chain guide instead, full fat version with a jockey wheel, like a MRP G2 or a e-thirteen LG1
Trick build of wheel used thick string as spokes on front wheel then cycled little wobbly but did short journey. Top spokes take most of the stress very interesting
Reverse components or the SB one single speed tensioner. If its hard to get either of them another option is to grab a 7sp dh derailleur and chuck a short piece of shifter cable in it to hold tension
Shred shirts ordered! Love the design! Can’t wait to rep!
Dude thanks so much! I just submitted it to production, should ship out tomorrow!
i'd reccommend you to buy an eccentric bottom bracket so that you dont have to use a chain tentioner! also use half links (they make for a stronger chain)
Coming from freestyle street bmx I second the half link, and the bb idea seems like something Evan would be into. Plus it fits into his new budget because we're talking under 200 in parts
Not really i haved half link on my bmx and they are not that strong how they advertise it doesn’t have much diff from regular chain
@@highnoon4515 the appeal for the half link in this case is to be able to adjust chain slack, not strength
Thanks for making this video. I hope to start building my own wheels for my bikes soon. Personally I never have had a chain come off my SS MTB’s but they are all SS frames with sliding dropouts or EBB’s.
Try a half bmx link chain, you might be able to ditch the tensioner entirely. Also, most people don’t know about half links, so it could make for a cool video segment
try the reverse chain tensioner i used it, before i bought a dirt jumper, and i was happy wit it
Thanks I'll look into that. The one I have is cheap crap lol
I wanted to buy that bike but someone beat me too it, glad to see it was you and now I get to watch along as you build it!
Haha dang no way! The guy said was posted for two months
You might also consider the First or Phil EBB. May still need a half link to get the tension right though. I spent awhile figuring out a “magic ratio” on mine and was able to get away with no tensioner, though mine is looser than ideal. DMR tensioner is OK as another option.
Been SSing for 25 years. Run the ridiculously cheap Shimano Deore Tensioner if you want best bang for the buck, or a Paul Melvin if you want to spend. Unless you run a tiny rear cog, the Shimano will work really well. Or upgrade to a proper SS frame with adjustable drop outs ;)
SS is so fun. I hope everyone experiences it at least once. I think I'm going to do a few SS builds moving foward
I’d try using an old DH deraliuer with extended limit screws to keep it in place
what helped me on my dirt jumper was using 11 speed chain. It isn't as strong as the single speed, but it holds on much much better. You should try that, you don't even have to buy expensive one
Thanks for the tips! I'm going for the strongest set up possible so I can put the power down on climbs
Ahh the white industries eno! The green 72ep trials one was the best freewheel back when I used to ride trials!
I wonder if the green has better engagement. I was luckily able to order mine off Amazon with prime shipping. From the White Ind site, it says there's a wait list 🤦♂️
@@EvansMTBSaga I'm pretty sure the red had 36ep and a 3 pawl mechanism, where as the green had 6 pawls and 72ep :).
the soulcraft convert will allow you to set the tension as you like without having to worry about a spring. however im a fan on fixed chainstay setups just going with a gear combination that arrives at the correct tension.
I’m loving this series so far!! Keep it up!!!
The ztto tensioner is actually adjustable. I had an issue where it would skip under max power but I adjusted the tensioner and that fixed it. The tensioner is cheap too.
Oh yeah it definitely has got to go. Now that I used this wheel, got smaller tires, I now feel the frame stiffness!!
Paul’s components has a good tensioner. Set and forget
get a chain tensioner with two wheels it will make the chain a lot more tensioned or you can use a rear derailleur with a clutch
i had a shimano alfine and it was very good but my dumbass didnt know how to use it so i left it in my basement and its gone now, but its a solid and cheap tensioner
I definitely appreciate this hardtail hardtail series you’re doing, as I’m a hardtail enthusiast. The one thing I dislike is that you switched from 2.8 tires to 2.6. If you ever do switch back to 2.8, I recommend trying the Maxxis Rekon plus.
Those 2.8's were really really nice on the trail. I'm curious how these 2.6 will work on the trail. I have one final video left on this particular hardtail build so I'll keep you updated
@@EvansMTBSaga much appreciated! I’m currently trying to build up my channel, and my main bike that I use is my 2022 Rocky Mountain growler 40. After I saw your hardcore hardtail, I decided to convert mine from 29” to 27.5x2.8. To say it’s a fun bike would be an understatement
Building a strong wheel issue #1: 28 hole. Good call on the wide stance equal spoke length though. Those EX 511's are DH strong too.
Yess ETRD chain tensioner would be nice if you can find one.
right tool for the right job
Half link is a possibility or a fixed tensioner as you don’t need slung loaded as your not running rear suspension on that bike so chain growth isn’t an issue
If you don’t care about weight, you could use a half link chain. It allows you to get perfect tension without a tensioner
Paul Components are great! I am using their brakes for my bikepacking bike and the beauty of the hand made machining is astonishing! Plus they are pretty local to me :)
Oh no way you have the Klampers?!? I want to try those so badly!!
@@EvansMTBSaga you should! I’m sure you could make a great video comparing them to hydraulics of the same price! Because, wow! they are not cheap lol!
either fix a chainline or add chainguard. Narrow-wide rear gear probably not an option :)
Yes! You got to ride the railyard! Sick Dude.
I haven't rode steep lips in forever! I'm okay with making excuses, I didn't hit the big line. It's pretty big! Haha but I couldn't take a crank
@@EvansMTBSaga I don't ever hit the big lines. Im perfectly fine being an over 40 mediocre medium line rider. 😅⚓👍
bro if you dont wanna put a chain tensioner, you can put a half link chain, it is more precise for have a good chain tension without chain tensioner, with a tensioner the reverse components is the good one
0:44 am I seeing a crooked chainline? also making sure chain thickness matches the sprockets.. other then that, I say find a frame with sliding dropouts. you can mix wheels adjust chain tension and also wheel base! I love my regular honzo , and esd .
Get a tensioner that wraps the chain more around the freewheel, pushes up into the freewheel rather than below, your chain is skipping over the sprocket...
DMR chain tensioner for HT, the other style work for full suspension single speed for chain growth but for hardtail MTB you dont have that so simple solution is the dmr one and your bike will be totally silent and it won't bounce around like the spring loaded ones thus no chain slap.
Without sliding dropouts, you will have to use a chain tensioner. You could try half link chains as well.
I have a few single speed specific hubs and they definitely have a cleaner look and build up a stronger wheel. I’m not sure if it would be that noticeable but I noticed that my SS wheels don’t get out of true as much as my geared hub wheels. I also believe this is why Pivot and many other manufacturers started using the new Boost plus 157mm standard and obviously most DH specific bike use wider hubs. I have a friend that raced Foes bikes and it had a 160mm hub.
Oh yeah my Alchemy has super boost. It's a noticeable difference!
damn those salughter grid tires bring back good memories. i had 27.5/3.0 ones and only reason I stopped using them is because I road onroad and offroad so I felt the rolling resistance more. now use debarons but I would still get them again
Now you need to get one of those Paul components chain tensioners
If you want the chain not to fall, look for a chain guard similar to DH
Just installed a slaughter on the rear of my hard tail. It’s better in the back for trails but if your riding hardpact I don’t see how it’ll hurt in the front.
Hell of a job on the video sir keep it up wish you had big boy sizes I’d def support
you cab use a rigid chain tensioner instead of a sprung one for example a dmr tensioner
Try just using an old short cage derailleur as a chain tensioner, the extra jocket wheel will hold the chain on the sprocket
Get a proper SB ONE chain tensioner. Slopestyle riders run them on full sus bikes and the retention is rock solid. Make sure to get the good version thouh, the cheaper one has a weaker spring and can occasionally create problems.
That's interesting. Does it hold the chain on without a clutch, even on full sus?
Its pretty cool seeing you do jumps. I can definitely tell your an ex bmx racer. I used to race bmx in AZ also. Down in Lake Havasu and Parker AZ. That was back in the late 90s.
Oh yeah I saw that Lake Havasu track from afar about two years ago. Still there! BMX is rad you should revisit it! I'm thinking about doing the same.
I love the wheel, and I bet the bike is killer on the flow trails. But get a dirt jumper for the Pumptrack, it will feel so much more playful.
Try the Reverse chain tensioner. I only heard good things about them and they have good quality :)
nah they lose there stiffnes pretts fast buy a sb one its about the same price and way better
Not all wheels make a scalene triangle these days, most rims these days come with an offset spike hole design that aligns the spike holes more in the center of the hub making them a lot stronger.
What offsets do they do on the rim? Maybe like 3mm? The drive side flange will be offset 30mm. I was shocked at the discrepancy of tension needed for drive side and non drive side when I switched to mtb
@@EvansMTBSaga right it isn’t a whole ton of offset but it’s enough to give a good balance between stiffness and flexibility, I have race face AR 30 wheels on my bike and I haven’t had any issues or haven’t noticed any bad glazing or anything. I would definitely recommend trying some on your Meta
Yea my next chain tensioner is defo gonna be a reverse components bit pricey but looks so strong
Hey Evan I’d suggest getting yourself a reverse colab chain tensioner works super well at stopping the chain hoping of because it has two jockey wheels instead of one like you currently have hope this helps
Take a couple links out of that chain and see if you can get it on without the tensioner.
Maybe clean out the freehub for the crap noise out of the old ones btw. Works wonders
Sb one chain tensioner is the Way to go
Geometry lessons with Evan! 😅 Isosceles, scalene, yeah I haven’t heard those terms in forever 😂 great video man!
you should get the reverse components chain tensioner, or just a chian tensioner with 2 pulleys
Not sure if anyone mentioned this yet but it looks like you laced this like one would lace a disc brake front wheel with both sides of braking spokes elbow out. Shimano and several other manufacturers recommend driving spokes to be elbow out on the drive side. Probably wont make a big difference either way. Google disc wheel lacing for a diagram and further explanation.
Look ar Profile hubs. They do BMX style hubs for MTB spacings with disc mounts.
I can’t recommend enough a 2-pulley tensioner of some sort like others mentioned… speaking from experience. Or you can try finding that sweet spot without a tensioner, there’s a chain inch and cog size calculator out there somewhere online
You install chain guards on both sides of the single sprocket.
If you insert an aluminum guard larger in diameter than the sprocket, the problem will be solved.
Why don't you flip the arm on the tensioner and have it push up against the chain so it has more engagement?
Gotta get that Paul Melvin!
Does it have ISCG tabs? You can use a tensioner up front that pushes the chain up. Spire tensioner I think?
Keep up the great content Man! 👍
If you want to tension on a budget, use an old derailleur. Maybe itll Work
Bmx front chainring and half link chain.more chance of getting good chain length. Check out what sam pilgrim used on one if his old videos. He used a tensioner but i cant remember what brand. Your making life difficult swap your frame for a dirt jump frame with drop outs job done.
As others said I would gi with reverse components chain tensioner
You should have went for the white industries eno trials freewheel because it has more engagement points because your other bikes have much more engagement points and it wouldn't feel as weird going from a bike to an other
MTB wheels having lateral flex in corners and rock gardens is a GOOD thing to an extent. you don't want a wheel to be so stiff that it cannot flex whatsoever because you will break that wheel extremely fast. some of the strongest things in the world like plane wings have an innate ability to flex because that reduces the overall load on the structure and MTB wheels are no different.
also that crunching you're hearing as you pedal is likely due to improper chain line or the chain is too tight. people in the comments have already mentioned it but reverse components makes a single speed tensioner that would help the issue.
Use a narrow wide pulley maybe it can make the chain grip more on the pulley.
Nice wheel build. no one ever goes into the lacing patterns. Just wondering about the electrical tape over the rim tape. I haven't seen that before?
Oh yeah this was 3 cross pattern. And I picked up the electrical tape over the rim tape trick from Syd and Mackey. It's a great solution to prevent the gradual PSI loss from having just rim tape. Now I hardly lose air pressure
I used a regular derailleur paired with an old Shimano index shifter and tighten the screw down till tension locked the shifter was stuck in place.
Yeah I've heard using an old derailleur is a good way to do it
IMHO, you're actually better off using a derailleur instead of a tensioner even on a single speed. You can adjust a derailleur to have the perfect alignment to your freewheel gear and the side to side spring actually dampens any shock that may take your chain off track.
A reverse chain tensioner is decent, but not good, if you want a really good one go with the sbone g3c, its expensive, but definitely worth it