Thank you so much Sir. This is the most informative video on those Cut Off Battery Protection Boards, also known as XH-M609. This video also inspired me the idea to use a separate high current relay driven by this little board in order to safely handle more current.
@@ThriftyToolShed One more question though: If a relay is marked 48V/80A, does this mean that I can drive its coil by a 48V to control a 48 voltage on its contact as well? In fact, I have a 48V battery bank. Thanks
@@chafik1973 usually you will see a relay have a coil voltage rating, a maximum voltage switching rating and of course the current rating it can switch. You have to find out if the coil and input is rated for 48v. Many times for example a 12V coil can switch much higher voltages.
I don't understand why they didn't put a switch on the board to shut off the led readout. The whole point is to protect a battery from discharging too far but it will literally keep discharging your battery by itself.
Very true. So many people asked about this that I followed up this video with a latching type circuit with a relay to drop out the complete circuit. It has its issues also, but at least the push button can latch the circuit as well as be used for a bypass temporarily if needed.
Hey, I've been searching for a while and couldn't find a straight answer. What is this board's consumption ? Especially when it's already below the setpoint and decoupled the output. I can see that its 7 Digit display is still active and I'm wondering at what rate this circuit will discharge further the batteries.
Thanks for the video but I wish someone would explain how can the voltage cutoff and hysteresis be programmed without any microcontrollers or digital circuitry on the board. The only IC I see on this board is a buck converter. Also I question the usefulness of a board that loses all its settings when you disconnect it from the battery because you WILL need to disconnect it in order to recharge that battery. I have tried to find the schematic of this board without success.
Your little relay black box in your board shows it rated for 14vDC, I’ve heard of those failing when using a 20v power tool battery to increase power of kids power wheels, how does that no mess up when you’re putting more than 14v to it.
I typically use it to control a high current relay or solenoid that is rated for heavy DC loads. These will not do well with high DC loads alone. DC is rough on contacts. So yes at 20A it would not last long if going over 14VDC. Honestly the power wheels over voltage to 20V is not good for the motors at all and it's most likely way over 20A also. Maybe into the hundreds at start up. I would not even try that thinking about all the start and stop the kids put on that little power wheels, I would imagine it would smoke it in no time!
Ive heard that battery operated power tools, such as a Milwaukee 18v drill battery, for reference, has a minimum battery voltage of around something like 16.2, according to a project i saw on TH-cam using one to power LED lights in an enclosed trailer, and if you go below whatever the minimum is, you can damage the battery, but to be honest, I'm not sure if I understand that... how is it that it'll damage your batteries? And what's more, should a circuit running off of a 12v car battery (or deep cycle), or a 12v vexilar/kayak battery, or even a lawn mower battery, have a low voltage cutoff circuit in there somewhere, and if it's not needed, then what's the difference? Just the fact that you're using special battery requiring a special charger?
Yes lithium ion batteries have a low voltage minimum meaning they will be damaged if allowed to drop below a minimum level. This is usually around 2.5V on many cells data sheet. Many battery packs cut out at around 3V per cell for protection. Lithium cells also should never be charged above 4.2V per cell. Most packs stop charging at around 4V for protection. Lithium cells are good, but they have known issues with overcharging and over discharging. This is why you always see circuit boards in battery packs. This is different from lead acid batteries which are much more tolerant to these issues. It does still affect them, but not as drastic for sure.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you very much!!! Most of what I can actually readily find by searching for this question on youtube, without knowing exactly what to search for, either lacks information on it at all, or is woefully short on information that it DOES give. I am glad to know more, finally. That definition you gave, sounds kinda like why my used car batteries don't last long especially when(sometimes) running then down, and, not using them very often besides... Not sure if I explained what I feel properly, but there you go... You definitely have my thanks, as that's all I can currently afford to give
Well, it's rated for 20A and the relay shows 20A rating, but it is also a 30VDC rating so if you use it at higher voltage like up to 60V it may not hold up. Many viewers have pointing out that it's not a 60VDC rated relay. Truth is it is seemingly impossible to find a relay small or affordable that has a 60VDC rating. I also share some boards with the 30A relays if you need higher current capabilities.
I bought this plate to protect my daughter's car battery from discharging. However, I noticed that the speed of the car was limited, as the board limited the output current to 2amp, and by connecting directly to the battery the car consumes 25amp depending on the situation. How can I protect the battery without limiting the current?
Well it is only a relay contact and rated for 20A. There should not be any current limit. It may have a faulty contact or burnt contacts if over 20A has been pulled across it. It is some 30A boards available as well. Also if this board is connected at all times it will drain a battery also. I do have a video showing a latching circuit with this so it will drop out completely if voltage drops to cut off voltage.
@@ThriftyToolShed Could you tell me the code for the board that would support 30amp? I did a search and couldn't find it. Also, is the video you mentioned the one in the description update here?
@CarlosSantos-vt9gb Yes, it's the one mentioned as an update. I also have a link below in that video for the 30A board as well. The Amazon link is still up to date.
Can this cut out at 12 volts and then kick back on at 13.8 volts so that way you can have deep cycle batteries can only get as low as 20% and when the panels charge to 100 it can kick back on to get proper cycle
From my experience it should not have any issues with that. I am also working with a different module at the moment that has many ways to set up as well. May be worth looking at, but I don't have much experience with it yet to know if it's much better or not. The power usage on stand by is much better for sure. amzn.to/48cJbIr
I have one of these I connected for my son's Power Wheels. I'm using my 20/18v DeWalt batteries and at first it was reading the voltage from the battery correctly. It was showing anywhere between 18-20v. However, after a few uses I noticed that the display on the low cut-off protection board jumped all the way up to 99.9. I have a separate display device in the loop that also displays the voltage, and it is showing at the correct voltage amount. Any idea why the protection board default display is at 99.9? The cut-off value is set to 16v and the difference value is set to 1.
The only 2 ways I can think of for the voltage reading to be wrong is... #1. The voltage calibration has been accidentally adjusted by pressing the long press of the + button and calibrating? #2. The board is possibly faulty. I have used several of these and have not had one show 99.9V yet, so I am not 100% sure. I am just throwing out these suggestions in case they help. I have also used a couple newer style boards that are 60V 30A and 40A respectively. It is more set-up to these l, but they work great and I will possibly share a video of it in the future. amzn.to/3TCwReZ Or amzn.to/3TxwaUt Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I really appreciate the prompt response! I'll definitely be trying #1 above this evening. Thank you for the URLs as well for similar products!
What type of relay could we add to this LVC so that when it trips all battery power is disconnected from the LVC as well to not overdischarge if left alone? Not just the load.
Ok, so this design is for you to see the voltage drop and it shuts down and requires you to take action to remove it and recharge it. So you could use the same setup as I showed as an example here in the video, but wire it differently. You would need to have the output of the LVCO module also power itself and the load. The trick is to have the battery positive going to a momontary seal in push button switch to the relay coil that you would have to hold to activate. It may take a few seconds to boot up and verify the voltage level is good then you can release the push button and all is powered from the output of the module. Once it drops down below cut-off setpoint it all drops out.
@@ThriftyToolShed From a hobbyist and student of electrical engineering - I would cry from happiness if you could demonstrate this - as you would literally help me understand this exact solution I've been searching for everywhere! This module is great, but without fully cutting the circuit when voltage is low my batteries are often overdischarged. The additional relay and circuit as you described is the ideal solution, and I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how to creating a self-driven flow from battery positive can momentarily latch the circuit open until it is disconnected.
I have received a good bit of interest in this and I will put together a video on this. It will take a little bit of time to get caught up on editing videos I have scheduled already. Hopefully in March I will put this together. Thanks for your comment!
I appreciate your hard work making these videos. I have one of these boards and its not working. When I hook up the power the led flashes messy for one second then goes dead. They told me to hit a button fast while the light is flashing to get it to set up but it wont even flash. I ordered mine from amazon with no instructions, can I input from a solar panel or will it only handle 12 volts? I am in Canada so my cost for this board is almost forty dollars. What I am looking for is a module that I can input 12/24 volts DC and output 12 volt. Any help will be much appreciated.
Well this board will allow 12V or 24V input, but will not change voltage level. 12v in 12v out. 24v in 24v out. It is just a protection board that shuts off load before pulling down to low to protect the battery typically. Low voltage cut off that you set level for. Hope it helps.
Not really sure exactly what you are asking here. It works with 12V and if you use a 100AH rated battery that is fine. It will Not handle 100A if that is what you are asking. Rating is 20A as mentioned in video.
See how to set up the XH-M609 module here: th-cam.com/video/d9RD0Iao58A/w-d-xo.html . There are four settings using the two buttons - cutout, offset, calibration and time delay.
Thanks! got a free hot wheel with the conversion for 20v and I didnt know what this module was for. This made perfect sense why one battery worked and another didnt. The link you posted help me set up the module better.
This video is useless . Nothing to learn for beginners Anyone understanding anything you're saying already knows these things so the video is of no use.
I will take this into consideration as we all have opinions. I do battle with being relevant with both beginners and deeper look into things. 1 hour videos woud bore everone. I will say the time I spent on the more beginner style videos over 8 years ago never really took off well.
Good info. Will check out your latching circuit next.
Thank you so much Sir. This is the most informative video on those Cut Off Battery Protection Boards, also known as XH-M609. This video also inspired me the idea to use a separate high current relay driven by this little board in order to safely handle more current.
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed One more question though: If a relay is marked 48V/80A, does this mean that I can drive its coil by a 48V to control a 48 voltage on its contact as well? In fact, I have a 48V battery bank. Thanks
@@chafik1973 usually you will see a relay have a coil voltage rating, a maximum voltage switching rating and of course the current rating it can switch. You have to find out if the coil and input is rated for 48v. Many times for example a 12V coil can switch much higher voltages.
I don't understand why they didn't put a switch on the board to shut off the led readout. The whole point is to protect a battery from discharging too far but it will literally keep discharging your battery by itself.
Very true. So many people asked about this that I followed up this video with a latching type circuit with a relay to drop out the complete circuit. It has its issues also, but at least the push button can latch the circuit as well as be used for a bypass temporarily if needed.
Hey, I've been searching for a while and couldn't find a straight answer. What is this board's consumption ? Especially when it's already below the setpoint and decoupled the output. I can see that its 7 Digit display is still active and I'm wondering at what rate this circuit will discharge further the batteries.
Thanks for the video but I wish someone would explain how can the voltage cutoff and hysteresis be programmed without any microcontrollers or digital circuitry on the board. The only IC I see on this board is a buck converter. Also I question the usefulness of a board that loses all its settings when you disconnect it from the battery because you WILL need to disconnect it in order to recharge that battery. I have tried to find the schematic of this board without success.
It has memory. It keeps settings. The micro is presumably under the LED display...
Hello, we can change the relay to withstand more amperes, for example, to put a 100 amp relay with the same circuit
Yes! It can control any higher current relay!
Your little relay black box in your board shows it rated for 14vDC, I’ve heard of those failing when using a 20v power tool battery to increase power of kids power wheels, how does that no mess up when you’re putting more than 14v to it.
I typically use it to control a high current relay or solenoid that is rated for heavy DC loads. These will not do well with high DC loads alone. DC is rough on contacts. So yes at 20A it would not last long if going over 14VDC. Honestly the power wheels over voltage to 20V is not good for the motors at all and it's most likely way over 20A also. Maybe into the hundreds at start up. I would not even try that thinking about all the start and stop the kids put on that little power wheels, I would imagine it would smoke it in no time!
I need one of those!
Ive heard that battery operated power tools, such as a Milwaukee 18v drill battery, for reference, has a minimum battery voltage of around something like 16.2, according to a project i saw on TH-cam using one to power LED lights in an enclosed trailer, and if you go below whatever the minimum is, you can damage the battery, but to be honest, I'm not sure if I understand that... how is it that it'll damage your batteries? And what's more, should a circuit running off of a 12v car battery (or deep cycle), or a 12v vexilar/kayak battery, or even a lawn mower battery, have a low voltage cutoff circuit in there somewhere, and if it's not needed, then what's the difference? Just the fact that you're using special battery requiring a special charger?
Yes lithium ion batteries have a low voltage minimum meaning they will be damaged if allowed to drop below a minimum level. This is usually around 2.5V on many cells data sheet. Many battery packs cut out at around 3V per cell for protection. Lithium cells also should never be charged above 4.2V per cell. Most packs stop charging at around 4V for protection. Lithium cells are good, but they have known issues with overcharging and over discharging. This is why you always see circuit boards in battery packs. This is different from lead acid batteries which are much more tolerant to these issues. It does still affect them, but not as drastic for sure.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you very much!!! Most of what I can actually readily find by searching for this question on youtube, without knowing exactly what to search for, either lacks information on it at all, or is woefully short on information that it DOES give. I am glad to know more, finally. That definition you gave, sounds kinda like why my used car batteries don't last long especially when(sometimes) running then down, and, not using them very often besides... Not sure if I explained what I feel properly, but there you go... You definitely have my thanks, as that's all I can currently afford to give
Hi thx for video . Regarding 20 amps is that mean i cant use it in case i withdraw more 20 amps from big battery
No, unfortunately not. The relay is rated for 20A. It will not regulate load in any way. Sorry for the confusion. Just a 20A relay really.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you so much 🙏
Can this controller handle a 15 t0 20 ampere load output?
Well, it's rated for 20A and the relay shows 20A rating, but it is also a 30VDC rating so if you use it at higher voltage like up to 60V it may not hold up. Many viewers have pointing out that it's not a 60VDC rated relay. Truth is it is seemingly impossible to find a relay small or affordable that has a 60VDC rating. I also share some boards with the 30A relays if you need higher current capabilities.
I bought this plate to protect my daughter's car battery from discharging. However, I noticed that the speed of the car was limited, as the board limited the output current to 2amp, and by connecting directly to the battery the car consumes 25amp depending on the situation. How can I protect the battery without limiting the current?
Well it is only a relay contact and rated for 20A. There should not be any current limit. It may have a faulty contact or burnt contacts if over 20A has been pulled across it. It is some 30A boards available as well. Also if this board is connected at all times it will drain a battery also. I do have a video showing a latching circuit with this so it will drop out completely if voltage drops to cut off voltage.
@@ThriftyToolShed Could you tell me the code for the board that would support 30amp? I did a search and couldn't find it. Also, is the video you mentioned the one in the description update here?
@CarlosSantos-vt9gb
Yes, it's the one mentioned as an update. I also have a link below in that video for the 30A board as well. The Amazon link is still up to date.
Can this cut out at 12 volts and then kick back on at 13.8 volts so that way you can have deep cycle batteries can only get as low as 20% and when the panels charge to 100 it can kick back on to get proper cycle
From my experience it should not have any issues with that. I am also working with a different module at the moment that has many ways to set up as well. May be worth looking at, but I don't have much experience with it yet to know if it's much better or not. The power usage on stand by is much better for sure.
amzn.to/48cJbIr
I have one of these I connected for my son's Power Wheels. I'm using my 20/18v DeWalt batteries and at first it was reading the voltage from the battery correctly. It was showing anywhere between 18-20v. However, after a few uses I noticed that the display on the low cut-off protection board jumped all the way up to 99.9. I have a separate display device in the loop that also displays the voltage, and it is showing at the correct voltage amount. Any idea why the protection board default display is at 99.9? The cut-off value is set to 16v and the difference value is set to 1.
The only 2 ways I can think of for the voltage reading to be wrong is...
#1. The voltage calibration has been accidentally adjusted by pressing the long press of the + button and calibrating?
#2. The board is possibly faulty.
I have used several of these and have not had one show 99.9V yet, so I am not 100% sure. I am just throwing out these suggestions in case they help. I have also used a couple newer style boards that are 60V 30A and 40A respectively. It is more set-up to these l, but they work great and I will possibly share a video of it in the future.
amzn.to/3TCwReZ
Or
amzn.to/3TxwaUt
Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I really appreciate the prompt response! I'll definitely be trying #1 above this evening. Thank you for the URLs as well for similar products!
Sir please explain xhm604 pcb
You want me to explain the setup of the board?
Do you loose the set values when you disconnect the board from the power source?
No, the settings are stored.
That's a good idea for large voltage battery systems. Thanks.
What type of relay could we add to this LVC so that when it trips all battery power is disconnected from the LVC as well to not overdischarge if left alone? Not just the load.
Ok, so this design is for you to see the voltage drop and it shuts down and requires you to take action to remove it and recharge it. So you could use the same setup as I showed as an example here in the video, but wire it differently. You would need to have the output of the LVCO module also power itself and the load. The trick is to have the battery positive going to a momontary seal in push button switch to the relay coil that you would have to hold to activate. It may take a few seconds to boot up and verify the voltage level is good then you can release the push button and all is powered from the output of the module. Once it drops down below cut-off setpoint it all drops out.
@@ThriftyToolShed From a hobbyist and student of electrical engineering - I would cry from happiness if you could demonstrate this - as you would literally help me understand this exact solution I've been searching for everywhere! This module is great, but without fully cutting the circuit when voltage is low my batteries are often overdischarged. The additional relay and circuit as you described is the ideal solution, and I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how to creating a self-driven flow from battery positive can momentarily latch the circuit open until it is disconnected.
I have received a good bit of interest in this and I will put together a video on this. It will take a little bit of time to get caught up on editing videos I have scheduled already. Hopefully in March I will put this together. Thanks for your comment!
I now have a video up about the LVCO with a latching circuit. I hope it is helpful.
th-cam.com/video/2pSov8jIo_Y/w-d-xo.html
I appreciate your hard work making these videos. I have one of these boards and its not working. When I hook up the power the led flashes messy for one second then goes dead. They told me to hit a button fast while the light is flashing to get it to set up but it wont even flash.
I ordered mine from amazon with no instructions, can I input from a solar panel or will it only handle 12 volts? I am in Canada so my cost for this board is almost forty dollars.
What I am looking for is a module that I can input 12/24 volts DC and output 12 volt. Any help will be much appreciated.
Well this board will allow 12V or 24V input, but will not change voltage level. 12v in 12v out. 24v in 24v out. It is just a protection board that shuts off load before pulling down to low to protect the battery typically. Low voltage cut off that you set level for. Hope it helps.
does it work with 100Amp 12v battery
Not really sure exactly what you are asking here. It works with 12V and if you use a 100AH rated battery that is fine. It will Not handle 100A if that is what you are asking. Rating is 20A as mentioned in video.
Good pcb. Good explain.
Very informative video thanks
Thank you 🙏 that explains allot 😅
See how to set up the XH-M609 module here: th-cam.com/video/d9RD0Iao58A/w-d-xo.html . There are four settings using the two buttons - cutout, offset, calibration and time delay.
Thanks! got a free hot wheel with the conversion for 20v and I didnt know what this module was for. This made perfect sense why one battery worked and another didnt. The link you posted help me set up the module better.
Thks & cool accent
This video is useless . Nothing to learn for beginners Anyone understanding anything you're saying already knows these things so the video is of no use.
I will take this into consideration as we all have opinions. I do battle with being relevant with both beginners and deeper look into things. 1 hour videos woud bore everone. I will say the time I spent on the more beginner style videos over 8 years ago never really took off well.