Bambu Lab A1 Mini - XXL Tech Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
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Bambu Lab released a new 3D printer! It's the A1 mini and it comes with a new but stripped down multi-color / multi-material system - the AMS lite!
It promises advanced High-Tech fast printing at a low entry level beginner price, high speed and high quality printing.
Ease of use for everyone at a low price. But there are limits - you can't get a Jack of all trades for that price tag. The tech check and review will show.
We test the technology and performance of the printer and have a closer look what this is all about.
Might this even be one of the fastest Bed Slingers? Probably it's one of the most advanced printers!
Get your Bambu Lab Printer here*:
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The A1 Mini: bit.ly/A1mini
The P1P: bit.ly/theP1P (CoreXY now, upgrade later)
The P1S: bit.ly/theP1S (recommended)
The X1C: bit.ly/theX1C (High End recommendation)
Shop at Bambu Lab: bit.ly/247BambuLab
247printing on social media:
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X/Twitter bit.ly/3tSh8M2
Instagram bit.ly/37b94yf
TikTok: bit.ly/3FIHqWv
Discord bit.ly/3Cy5jPf
FULLY Recommended DIY PRINTERS* for Tinkerers:
---------------------------------
Prusa - the 3D Printing Pioneer: bit.ly/3hKW4oT
Fast and compact: Voron 0.2 (AliExpress) bit.ly/39kfWdC
High Tech Large format: Voron 2.4 (AliExpress): bit.ly/3PklmWE
Stuff used in the video*:
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Thermal Camera (FLIR ONE PRO): amzn.to/3LxKJEc
SUNLU PLA - The Best Bang for the Buck (-21% atm!): amzn.to/3PzlPFo
PolySonic High-Speed PLA used: amzn.to/3sYeUOn
My favourite Filament Dryer: amzn.to/3ZsYp9p
Eryone Filament (-10%!): eryone3d.com code: 247printingERY
Extrudr Filament (-20%!): www.extrudr.com code: EX_247PRINTING
Print Models used in this video:
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FlexiFactory Panda makerworld.com/en/models/1298...
FlexiFactory Alien makerworld.com/en/models/1286...
FlexiFactory Robot makerworld.com/en/models/1286...
Torture Toaster www.printables.com/model/6098...
Voronoi Benchy www.printables.com/model/1245...
Voronoi Cat www.printables.com/model/1737...
Your Menu
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00:00 Intro
03:11 Package and Setup
06:48 Tech Check
07:37 Motion System
08:35 Active Motor Noise cancelling
09:57 Electronics/Display/Camera
11:26 Display / User Interface
12:03 Sponsor Surfshark
13:09 Print Bed
14:49 Toolhead / Automated Flow Calibration
16:05 Filament Tangle Detection
17:45 Automated Material System / AMS lite
19:59 Print Preparation / Makerworld.com
20:28 Multi-Color / PLA Printing
22:17 Speed/Acceleration and Advertising tested
25:58 PETG Printing
26:30 TPU Printing
27:12 ABS Printing
27:24 Conclusion/Verdict
*Can be affiliate links at no extra cost for the customer.
#BambuA1series #BambuA1mini - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Do you feel the A1 Mini would be a printer for you or which one is YOUR next printer?
My next? A vron 0.2!
Yes. I want a spare Bambu besides my X1C. I like the simplicity. Looks less needy. I expect it to become my goto machine.
I want one without the AMS. Already have x1c with AMS already
I really don't like three things about this printer:
- 80C max print bed temp (that's no buy reason for me)
- Long heating times
- not removable power cord
I bought one to go with my x1c
I appreciated your review. You are the first I have seen that has tested Bambu’s claims vs just tell us the claimed performance. You also opened the printer up and told us about what makes it tick. No one has mentioned the thin build plate. I’m wondering how that will age and if it can be easily replaced by an inexperienced user. I’m invested in the Bambu X1-Carbon and want Bambu to continue being successful. A simple decision like the build plate may have large impacts on how much the community trusts them.
Thanks a lot - I didn’t watch the other reviews because of the crunch on that one, but I just did what I would have expected from other reviewers.
@@247printing Do you know if the build plate can be replaced? Does the process look “easy” to you.
Vector 3D did a complete teardown in a livestream. Pretty interesting discoveries where made. There is for example a disc on the bottom of the part cooling fan where some thought where a hall sensor but it was empty.
@@realgoose If it ait's broke don't fix it. There is no reason to change the bed when it prints just fine. These are the kind of usual BS that come from youtubers.
This lil printer made me ditch my old Ender 3. I use to love modifying and tinkering, now I just want to design and print
Ive always wondered how valid a test the torture toaster really was.
I feel like it might just reward printers that under extrude slightly, though I have never tested.
For my feeling it’s just too much material to print around the actual test geometry…
Makers Muse has some good torture tests. A couple can be printed just a few layers to check resolution tolerance.
Nice that you show all the print head parts like that. Haven’t seen another reviewer doing that
Glad you liked it!
As someone who got in touch with printing almost 10 years ago, I always disliked the involvement for beginning to print something nice. tpThis will be my first printer. I hate needing to be an expert to even begin with something. This printer allows you to actually have a learning curve that starts at beginner level. And I love the finished look of the A1 mini, other printers often look like someone didn't finish their product and still wants lots of money for it while still forcing the customer to mess around with unfinished software. Not acceptable in 2024
I have been waiting for years for 3D printing to be perfected more before getting into this. This A1 mini is my first printer. Everything you said is 100% correct. I was able to start out using bambu's website for models that were already tailored to the printer. Every thing just works, every time. Slowly I am experimenting with generic random STL files and learning how to change temps and flows with generic brands of PLA. Having a lot of fun. It just works great every time. When my settings fail in certain ways I can learn slowly why and make changes to get the desired effect. right now Im learning "supports" for over hangs. This printer and software have made it a pretty easy learning curve.
I was waiting for your review 🎉🎉🎉🎉 awesome as always!!
Best A1 printer review yet. Keep up the great work!
Appreciate your testing!
Best review yet for this printer
Thank you very much 🥰
Thanks for being really comprehensive!
Great video man!
One interesting thing about the printer, the X axis belt is not a regular GT2 belts, it has 1.5mm pitch
Thanks for your reviews!
7:50 The RatRig V-Minion is also a cantilever style 3D printer that uses an MGN15 rail on Z. It also uses one on Y :)
Thx for the info!
Yeah ... and it's a real bummer that neither Creality updated her Ender 2 Pro or Prusa their Mini+ after years and all recent developments.
At least Prusa is pushing new faster firmware ...
I think this was my favorite review from you so far. Bambulab has been an interesting company to watch, it's certainly been talked about quite a lot over the last year. It is a little concerning to me that they continue to misrepresent the specifications of their products. (Advertising 500mms, 80c build plate, etc.) When those specifications are obviously elaborations from the speeds most users will choose.
These misrepresentations are forgiven because the products are still so good, but how long will that be true for? We will see! For now, I'm excited to see the wave of innovations in 3D printing that Klipper started.
Love the clear case version shown in some of the footage, Bambu should release a version like this
Thank you, this is my favorite review of this printer yet
I thank you ❤️
I absolutely love that video!!! Even though i am not a bed slinger fan, in my opinion the new bambu app is ground breaking and such a big convenient feature! Thanks for your effort. Best review in my opinion about this printer
I think there is nothing wrong with a bedslinger. The good bedslingers can produce very good prints and can be very reliable. The corexy printers can be faster, but to be reliable (24/7 use) you should not use them at high speed. About half the speed at the max.
Absolutely, i think bedslingers are also great. I just like my p1p more, as the design is really nice. It it like with apple.... It just has this unique design touch which i absolutely like. But all printers from bambu are for sure great and better then the other ones currently on the market
@@lausi772 Yep and just like apple when it breaks you just throw it away 😅
@@thegarageluthier to be fair you can likely buy some parts for it after launch, you just have to buy only their parts, so kinda like apple, sort of
@@lausi772 Design-wise I agree. Core-xy printers look better and if you need a higher temperature (ABS, Nylon) they are much easier.
have been looking forward to this.
That patterning on the full-volume cylinder is most likely underextrusion/flow variance due to the low temperature.
Thanks for mentioning! Your videos are great.
Thanks for your services and offers! Hab wieder ein paar Kilos fertig zum versenden 😬
Looking forward for x-max 3 and k1 max printers review. Cannot decide which one to purchase. Very nice review of the A1, A1 seems like a perfect starting printer. ( cheaper and better then prusa mini )
Very nice review!
Thank you
Danke für das tolle Video. Ich hoffe es stört nicht wenn hier einer auf Deutsch schreibt.
Mir gefällt dass du die Marketing werte auf die Probe gestellt hast und den Drucker mit Modellen gequält hast, die nicht der Zielgruppe entsprechen.
Alles in allem schön gemacht und auch mal jemand der auf das Innenleben eingeht. Mir bereiten auf lange Sicht die Kabel direkt neben den Heatsinks ein wenig sorge aber wir lassen uns gerne überraschen. Meiner kommt hoffentlich bald hab ja direkt am 16. bestellt.
i remember swaping a nozzle from a prusa slicer, it was the worst experience ive ever had with a 3d printer.... really scared me away but now im kinda interested with picking up the hobby again
I was expecting the A1 mini, but now.... btw thanks for your testing!
Noise issues aside, Im intrigued by the A1 minis potential for multi-color prints.
Adam Savage's Tested's review of the A1 mini illustrated it pretty well.
I wonder why there are so few tests of the 3D Chameleon - basically the System that the AMS lite seems to be based on - for 180 bucks.
Build that is a dry box and a 4 color system is no problem anymore - with every printer.
As always, a marvelous video.
I think flashforge have pretty good way to change nozzles. It just clicks in there and I had no issues with it for 2 years already.
This printer looks great. I do wish the print volume was a standard 235mm but I assume any bigger and theirs need a full double z axis rails.
I might consider getting this one.
Great video. Thanks!
Great review! At roughly 9:00 in, you mentioned the silent noise cancellation is software based and will be added to the P1 series later. I have 2 questions:
Is this official? Did Bambu tell you this officially or did you kind of just assume as it's the most logical thing for them to do?
And if it is official, will it be done retroactively to current machines as a firmware update or only moving forward when we buy new machines.
Thinking of purchasing a P1S but the noise would drive me crazy. Knowing a free update is coming would have me happily buy it now however!
Yes that’s directly stated by Dr. Tao, CEO of Bambu Lab
Actually "cut&poo" is mandatory on printers with high-flow nozzles to reliable unload the filament. Without even a automatic unload is not reliable. For example on the Qidi X-Max 3 you have to pull on the filament manually to avoid problems (yes, without pulling on unload, filament sometimes stuck in the extruder). But even with pulling, the filament tip was deformed a lot - sometimes stuck in the filament runout sensor. I upgraded to a Revo hotend. With RevoHF-Nozzle same problem. But with Revo Standard nozzle I got a nice filament tip for every unload (a bit of stringing, but have not tuned ramping profiles and temperatures yet).
"Cut&Poo" takes more time than unloading and reloading filament on a Revo nozzle. Its also more waste. So for multicolour printing with one printhead, imho a standard nozzle should be used, not a highflow one. With filament changing taking most time anyway, I do not think a hf nozzle being needed anyway. But of course, on single material prints, a hf nozzle is what you want. So actually at the moment, if you want both, a Revo is the best solution.
However, "Cut&Poo" is quite nice if you mostly use one material, but doing multicolour only with a few changes. Like labeling the bottom of a print or a few changes at certain layers. Or doing support interfaces with PLA/PETG-trick. You want HF-nozzle on thoose prints, as they are mostly single material and only a few swaps.
So I miss the combination of methods.
Also: How about unengaging the printheads feeder on unload and load, just using the AMS-feeder (so make a bowden extruder just on load and unload)? So the filament tip deforms less, as the gears do not press to the still weak filament tip on unload. Also maybe an external cut if needed, just to remove stringing (with independend feeders for every spool, like on the AMS, it could be done while the printer already printing the next filament).
I think there are a lot of improvements possible in Multi Material printing.
23:06 that's not 24mm3/s, but actually 22,45mm3/s because the extrusion cross-section is NOT a rectangle, but a stadium (rectangle with semicircles at the ends)
Nice! Never thought about that, but sounds legit - which radius do you assume for the edges?
@@247printing the diameter is equal to the layer height, so radius is half of that. if you google "slic3r flow math" you'll find a page on how it's calculated
@@247printing According to Slic3r flow math, the diameter is same as layer height. So cross area would be A = (w-h)*h + pi*(h/2)^2 = rectangular area + circular area
You can find it and more interesting info by just googling "Slic3r flow math" or checking "Misconceptions & Bad Advice" from Ellis' Print Tuning Guide
would like to see how it handles TPU
The Ratrig V-Minion (a rather similar printer) has MGN15 linear rails on z and y.
At more than double the cost. $299USD vs $625USD for Ratrig. Also Ratrig is a DIY kit. vs fully assembled A1. Literally in an entirely different playing field...
@@Stevieboy7 that wasn’t the question. Albert asked if we knew of any other printers with MGM15 rails on z.
@@Stevieboy7 Also backed by the chinese government, Pretty much impossible to release a machine at this price point with those specs without heavy subsidies or making a loss to corner market share but that would also require subsidies to keep the business viable. All new machine and all new tooling, nothing shared from the X1 or P1P along with new software functionality not previously tested on existing machines?
Aah really? Never had a deeper look at it - thanks for pointing at the minion 👍
@@Stevieboy7 Not the point. He asked at around 7:50 in the video if we've heard of another 3D printer using MGN15 rails... Well, yes, we have. The V-minion.
with extra 30°C be it would be a perfect replacment for EVERY Mk3/ender/whatever in the ikea box...
I mostly print in PETG and sub 10cm parts so im good with the A1mini atm and wait for a refresh or larger X1C.
Rly good review!!
will it be released on the 16th october or is it only for preorder?
Thanks for the good review, still prefer my small *enclosed* Qidi X-Smart 3 though, since it cannot do multi color, but all materials up to PA12
honestly going to buy a big a1 after this review, seems pretty spot on for my requirements, as I content with only using pla and I want some plug and play, because I'm tired of my real old ender 3
As a bambu Lab x1c ownder i think im going to buy this too. My printer needs a little brother hehe :)
23:49 maybe the z is also compensating for the flex of the cantilever?
Possibly!
Noise levels are a common concern; maybe some DIY noise reduction solutions could help.
no one mentioned thin build plate... is this reliable?
Thanks for showing us it's guts. That was very interesting.
Thank you!
I liked the display on the A1 and Audi the sensors for flow calibration. On the P1 there isn't a flow calibration, is have to figure that manually
A1 mini caught my attention before its launching
I love more Prusa Mini size plate printers. (18x18x18cm)
It's so much smaller than regular printers and much more family home friendly.
I hope more printers will compete within this build plate size.
I know what you mean.
My 310x310 bedslinger barks at kids
The review I was waiting for!
Have you played around with the Qidi Smart 3? I swear you tweeted a photo of it a few months ago, but I can't find the tweet now. It's not much more than the Bambu A1. Do you think it's the better buy for folks that don't care about multi-colour printing?
Thx! I am testing the X Max 3 vs the K1 Max atm. The new QIDI line up definitely is good for the buck. X Max 3 is super chunky though - lot of space needed.
Question: Is it possible to print the Bambu PLA CF with the A1 mini?
can you check if object skipping is available
Ive been reading up on the A1 mini, and it seems like theres some mixed feedback out there.
21:08 wasnt there a parameter that specified a distance between parts and if they are closer the slicer will combine them even though they are two seperate parts?
Hello can u make dry ice cooling system for Vorn ??
Is this worth upgrading to if I own a KP3S?
Thanks
Could you please compare this with the elegoo Neptune 4 pro, I'm looking for my first printer and I don't know what I should get.
Do you still have your ratrig? If so, I‘d love to see it a bit more in the comparisons :)
I have it, but unfortunately no time to play with it :/
Needed a Voron 0 style printer.
I had a thought while watching this regarding your theory on the thin bed.
Is it actually that the bed is thin, or is it that the compensation you see is actually a result of the cantilever design?
At 23:40, you can see that it moves up when reaching closer to x = 0 and raises when closer to x = 180. That to me indicates a rather linear bed, but some deviation with the cantilever design of about a millimetre drop across the length of the arm. I suppose they could have compensated for it in design, but I think a better test of the bed is necessary to claim that it is too thin/is not straight.
Given their other printers, I would believe you if you said that the result was that it was an area for improvement, but I just wanted to suggest an alternative theory.
Thin pcb bed it's why we stopped using them years ago for opensource machines.
Good points on that!
does it matter tho as long as it prints fine? About to get the a1 as my first printer
@ Due to autoleveling / bedmesh and printing at max 80°C this is not a real problem, but worth mentioning. The A1 mini is a perfect first 3D printer!
@ Yes and no, software compensation is so good now that it probably doesn't, but softwre compensation is never going to be perfect, if you can design out errors you should. So a perfectly flat bed within reason is always a good place to start.
Hey boss i need your advice. i have been wanting a voron 0.2 but i have also really wanted a multi color printer to be able to try and sell mulit color prints so im stuck between that and this a1 mini! Let me know what you think i should get. i get paid this week and wanna place an order
Unfortunately, the PLA recycling where I live is basically non-existent :(. I have some possible leads, though.
Would it be too much to ask for pictures of the A1's Poop Kicker? I have an idea for a poop collector, but need dimensions of the end of the arm as well as how high it is from the table. Thank you in advance!
I would say you pushed the sunlu a bit far, try the bambu basic, esun eplahf, creality hyper or the new polymaker fast PLA perhaps a comparison video for the future ?
Absolutely- I used the PolySonic later for the boat - performed well
@@247printing I find the esun eplahf printes very well and does not change when printing fast or slow. The Bambu basic black is ok, but can change depending on the speed.
Tolles Video! Vielen Dank dafür!
Starke Aufnahmen mit dem Drehteiller! Ich hätte gedacht, daß sind Werksbilder! Mega!
Ich finde den A1 wirklich toll! Sehr schick! Und unglaublich preiswert für das Gebotene..!
Was mich ernsthaft stört ist das krumme Bett. Bei meinem X1 habe ich das auf Garantie selbst ausgetauscht und hatte Glück, daß das neue einigermaßen eben war, beim P1S war es okay. Ich habe jetzt einen weiteren P1S hier stehen, noch verpackt, und hoffe, daß auch da das Bett gut ist. Mehr als hoffen kann ich nicht.
Ich finde, nachdem BL in der Lage ist wirklich herausragende 3D Drucker mit nie dagewesenen features zu bauen und jetzt wieder einen enormen Entwicklungsschritt am Hotend gemacht hat, sollten sie einmal anerkennen, daß es wichtig ist, ein wirklich ebenes Druckbett zu haben. Bei meinen Prusas kriege ich das mit den neun Schrauben hin - mit denen ich in Verbindung mit dem mesh bed calibration tool Ebenheiten von einem Zehntel Millimeter über das ganze Druckbett relativ mühelos eingestellt bekomme.
Ja, für den Speed muss das Bett leicht sein.
Was ist wichtiger? Speed oder die Möglichkeit, das ganze Bett zu nutzen? Für ich ist klar: ich will bis zum Rand sicher gleiche first layer haben, gleiche elephant feet. :-) Ich drucke fast alles mit einer 0.6er Nozzle mit max 120mm/s.
Wie siehst Du das?
LG Andreas
How does it compare to something like the Prusa MINI+ ? I feel like it should be somewhat similar in performance (and price)?
It’s better, the prusa mini doesn’t have auto calibration and the vibration shaping is only in beta right now.
Thanks for the great video. I have a question. I'm thinking about buying the Ender 3 S1 Pro or the Bamboolab A1 that you introduced as an entry-level printer. Which of the two systems could you advise me to use? Mainly I want to print parts for my FPV copter in TPU and PLA. Thanks and best regards :)
for the same price s1 pro, you can basically get the s1 plus which 300mm - the only diff is the sprite extruder on the pro goes to 300 C versus the regular sprite hitting 260 C max. You can do tpu, pla, PETG, all no program on Ender 3 S1 (not pro), and you'll pay less money
Go for the A1 all day, otherwise you will endup spending tons of hours and money on upgrades. Also don’t buy the S1 Pro get the V3 SE if you are going with Creality for whatever reason, perhaps you need a normal sized printbed. The V3 SE has linear rods for the Y axis which is a big step up. You will need a computer or an pi or profession firmware to compete with the A1. Imo just to much tinkering, that said there will still be a lot of tinkering with the A1. 3D printing is never hassle-free.
@@ehdbom Thanks for your opinion. I also think that the functions of the A1 are more extensive. Just the fast and precise printing bi good quality out of the box convince me then in the end. I like to experiment or tinkering on technical stuff, but I have enough other things. That's why I'm happy when the printer works. :D Danke dir
£209 Bambu just killed all competitors 😂😂😂😂
so there is 2 plates included? website sais only 1
Does the design remind anyone of Gertie from the movie Moon? for me it seems to have a retro-modern space equipment design.
I really want one!
The limited materials is a deal breaker for me, I am holding out for Bambu Lab to release a toolchanger to compete with the Prusa XL, heck I would even settle for an IDEX and AMS!
Prusa XL is taking waaaay too long ngl.. tool changing seems really cool but looks like you have 5 extra extruders to fix.. also have you seen that price tag?!? 😅
@@enhidri160 I had a deposit down for an XL but got my money back about 8 months ago as I was sick of all the delay emails, yeah it is expensive and as you say you have 5 nextruders to maintain, I have more than that at the moment though LOL, the thing with toolchangers is you have way less wastage of plastic and I would feel very guilty using an AMS with the X1C.
I suppose another way of looking at the XL is that they wanted to get it right, I think the release of the Bambu Lab X1C had an affect on the release of the XL as they had to match or beat some features before releasing it.
@@AndrewAHayes haha yeah, if Bambu releases an X1 XL prusa is fricked, because only prusa and ultimaker will charge you $5000 for a good CoreXY
I've had enough of tinkering around with my Ender 3 V2. I just want to print things hassle free and seriously thinking to order one. I was checking Prusa printers but they are very expensive compared to Bambu Lab.
I think they kept it thin because of it being thrown around, but think also means less rigid?
the perfect thickness could probably be calculated somehow ?
Yes, I also believe that they went low weight over high thermal mass, as it works like it is. Though it's not perfect.
Yes, Snapmaker has had linear rails for quite a long time. 8:00
I would buy the ams if it can comnect with other primters
I'm literally craving to know how the automatic flow dynamics work, and how It senses / measures pressure on the nozzle. I know they say it's an eddy current sensor but I'm just intrigued by the level of engineering that went on this machine and cant get away with noy knowing how it works 😂. Must be proprietary though
Nice Video.
Thank you.
I still have one upgraded (fast) Anycubic i3 that i do use for prototyping only. I think I'll get me the A1 to replace it. :D
this or sv06?
Thanks for sharing~ but A1 mini costs too much for me...
Honestly I don't get why people got so pissed.
Disclaimer, my POV comes from fighting the gread end-boss ... the ender 3v2 custom black hole demon...
Having a small super fast printer like this would have saved me months of frustration and tons of aggrivation trying to print small parts for replacement/repair/etc.
I love this. May have to pick one up.
Users have reported unpredictable fluctuations in hotend temperature on the A1 mini, leading to frustrating printing issues.
I think the tangle detection only works if you feed it from the AMS. You have found a bug there.
You should discuss this with Bambu.
I’ll do 👍
I noticed that you did not use bambu lab filament in your tests. Why not use their product?
ya but does it do flow rate calibration on each roll when using the AMS? Meaning if you're using different filaments from different manufacturers, the flow rate might not be right if doesn't do the calibration for each filament
I was also curious why he did not test the printer with the factory filament. Why take it to the max performance with off-brand cheap filament? I would be very interested to see the difference. I just got my A1 mini as a first printer. I can tell you that the models come out noticeably better with the bambu filament. I just put a spool on and the printer automatically knows exactly what temps and flows to use. Works every time.
@@friedclutch97my guess is his thinking is more people will just use the least expensive stuff off the shelf at least to start. Especially beginners.
Why does the A1 mini have to be so picky about filament?
had no idea werner herzog was also into 3d printing, what a renaissance man.
Me, listening to the A1 doing motor noise cancellation:
“… wait damn I didn’t know the A1 could make a beat like that”
Not really familiar with how the AMS lite works, but at a glance, it looks like it could significantly decrease the filament change time by only retracting barely out of the hub (located right above the hotend), instead of all the way back to the AMS, and then all the way back to the printer like the regular AMS does. This alone could probably decrease the multi material print times by half if not more compared to the full size printers if the model changes colors/materials often
I find that my A1 mini switches filament pretty quickly. I dont have any other printers that so this to compare it to but it goes pretty fast. Despite the minuses he mentions in the video everything just works. So far, trouble free on everything. Its very quiet and very fast. I can start and monitor prints while im at work from my phone or PC. I can even edit/create a model and send it to the printer from anywhere on the internet. Works every time, and quickly.
The RatRig V-Minion uses Mgn15 rails for the Z and Y axes
Man that Y axis rail is HUGE.. Hard to believe my KP3S cost me just 100 less than that, it feels absolutely ancient compared to this
I'm fed up with tinkering and working on my $1500 ratrig v-core 3.1 :/
The A1 minis design quirks can be a real head-scratcher.
Hi, very interesting! I'm thinking about starting 3D-Printing but im not totally sure yet. What would be the "best" printer in your opinion in the 400€ - 600€ range? Also what programs are good to create my own shapes and models? Opensource or Freeware available? Or is there a different software for each different printer? Thanks in advance!
I use prusaslicer for slicing but there's a handful of FOSS slicers each with large communities. For creating models, blender is good for artistic modeling and freecad is better suited to CAD work and they're both FOSS.
Onshape
Im all about the DIY scene. Anyone here tried modding the A1 mini for better performance?
Finally some inovative competition! Really nice to see they smart thing up with an app!
it would be nice to use the filament swaps to print a different model in the corner.
I wish the A1 mini was a bit more versatile; the build plate is tiny
This is the perfect entry level printer, i see it being it for children, schools and small offices. Thanks.
Am i the only one, wondering how you type in your wifi password on that litte screen? 😅
I am still wondering how I managed that!
@@247printingI’m likely to get the P1S because I’m not Elon Musk.. but now I gotta type in my WiFi password on an even smaller screen!
Im not an expert, but Ive been considering the A1 mini. How does it stack up against the competition?