If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
Its murder. I have 2 cars that need MOT'd in January. Think this year I might get them tested again in June so that I can fix them in warm rain next year.
Thanks everso, these VW ‘Knock Off’ CV’s are new to me (I’m used to old Pugs) so glad to swot up a bit in the comfort of my Lounge, save time and swearing out in the cold when I do the job. Like a number of your vids, looking forward to watching em later.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Yep, definitely. I'm in North Lanarkshire, been bloody freezing here recently but luckily have a garage to keep the rain off. I remember doing welding on my brother's golf under a tarpaulin because it was snowing, never again!
You cant be too far away from me, Im on the southside of Glasgow. The same week I did the CV joint and door lock module on this car I had to replace the flex section of the exhaust for the mot. Started at 3pm and finished in the dark at 6pm and I had a tide line right around me where I was lying in a puddle :-). Kept getting shocks off my welder because my gloves were soaked through and I was getting my fingers too close to the tip. Sometimes wonder why I bother. :-D
Great informative video, thanks. I would recommend anyone doing this to pack the grease right into the workings of the CV joint, and to do it before connecting it to the drive shaft for ease. Also have to recommend cleaning all the greasy debris from the brake disc before refitting the road wheel.
Excellent video. Well filmed with fixed camera positions so all the details were sharp and you can really see what is happening in each shot. Nicely cut together too with no waffle shots. This will definitely help me with this job. One suggestion, you could do a voiceover once you've cut all the clips together, I'm sure you would do just as good a job of this as the footage. 😁
Thanks, Im really glad you liked the video and found it useful. I thought about doing a voice over but I quite like the challenge of telling the story through image only and if I do a voice over, it would need subtitles for other languages. Plus im not sure I would be able to do it very well.
Worse bit of the job is the mess the old grease makes. It somehow gets everywhere. If you get a chance today, soak the 3 ball joint bolts with penetrating oil today to give it a chance to soak in before you try and remove them tomorrow.
Thanks. Retreat is often the better part of valour. If you dont think you can do the job its better to seek help before starting it and being left stuck half way through.
Fantastic video clearly illustrating what to do. I wonder though, are there any special tools needed to remove and replace the wheel cover and what distance do you stand away from the car when doing it? Asking for a friend....
Hi thanks for the video. I am struggling to get the hub but off I have a 12 point 36 mm and 34mm the 36 is too big and the 34 is too small?? Really boggles me? Any suggestions? Thanks
Enjoyed the video so much, so helpful. What was the reason for changing the outer CV joint in your car? I have a Polo 6N2 and am having some issues with steering wheel, as it is not smooth when turning to center, it wobbles and shakes when turning itself center after a turn. The outer CV joints are suspicious for me, but I am not sure..
Im really glad you found it usefull. The issue I had that led me to change the CV joint was that the boot had split and needed replaced and when I inspected the drive shaft there was lots of play in the CV joint. If I was you I would jack up the front of the car (and support on stands) and check the condition of the lower ball joints and upper suspension bushes. These are what tend to influence the smooth operation of the steering more than the CV joint. While under there have a check on lower control arm bushes and check power steering fluid level for good measure as well. Hope you get it sorted and thanks for watching, Dave.
BTJustice Lower ball joints were replaced 2 months ago, power steering fluid was changed last week but the problem still exists. Suspension bushes and tie rods have not been checked yet, I will give a try soon. But, the most interesting thing is that the steering wherl is excellent while the wheels are not moving/rotating. When the wheels start to move/rotate, the steering wheel turns wobbly/shaky. I tested it by jacking the car up; the front wheels were not touching the ground, the steering was excellent and smooth. I put 1st gear, the wheels started rotating, and the steering wheel starts turning wobbly/shaky. It lost its smooth turn after the wheels started rotating. This is why the cv joints are suspicious to me, but I am also confused after this test..
Sounds like it wouldnt hurt to change the outer CV joints then. They are cheap enough and if you had the ball joints off recently you know they will come apart.
BTJustice I’ve never done this replacement before. But maybe I can try, however my first focus is to find the exact cause of this problem. I’ll get underneath the car tomorrow, and will have someone to rotate the wheels while they are jacking up, maybe I can see what’s balancing at this moment. This problem annoyed me so much.
I hadnt changed a CV joint either until I made the video. Got to start somewhere ;-) With the front of the car off the ground I would push, pull and pry at every bush to see if there is play in any of them. Hope you get to the bottom of it.
Thanks, Im glad you enjoy the videos. A failing CV joint is not always noticeable until you get under the car and look for play in the half shaft or a split in the rubber boot but you can look out for a ticking or grinding noise when the joint is under load or when the steering is at full lock.
Hello my friend I need to replace cv axle and i buy a new cv axle with the same OEM number but the new one does not have that metal ring on the top of cv joint it is okey to mount without that or it nessesary to have it ... Thnx a lot if you help me
Sorry for not replying sooner. You will probably find that the ring will pop off the old CV joint. My old joint had a plastic ring and with the new joint the metal ring was loose in the box and just pressed on. I think its a dust cover for the wheel bearing and ABS sensor.
No problem and I am really glad you found my videos useful. I think it would take about an hour to change the CV joint. It took me a lot longer as I had to set up the camera for each shot but if everything comes apart and you dont rush it I would estimate around an hour from wheel off to wheel back on.
My daughter's polo seems to be having the same issues yours does! Unfortunately, the cv joint doesn't want to knock off as easily as yours appeared to.
The nuts are not captive. The bolts passt through the control arm with the nuts on top. The three nuts are vonnected by a V shaped piece of metal. One of mine was turning as the nut had rusted from the V shape plate but I was able to get maul grips on it and remove the bolt.
Wouldn't be right to use ALL the parts 🤣. The clip that was fitted seemed to be doing its job fine and my fingers were covered in grease by that point so I left it there.
Sits in the groove at end of the drive shaft and helps to hold the CV joint until it is bolted to the hub. My old one was fine so left it in place rather than use the new one.
You could but its just as much work to replace the gaiter as it is to change the CV joint and its only £40-£50 for the full kit. I swapped both because my CV was worn and making noises but had the joint been ok i would still have swapped it as I didn't know how old it was.
If it wont budge in situ you may need to unbolt the inner CV joint from the gearbox and clamp the shaft in a vice to get better access to swing a hammer at it.
Disaster!! On the plus side they are not captive so once all three are out you could use nuts and bolts but make sure they are the same size, strength and use nylock nuts.
@@AstonishingGlasgow fortunately my dad is a tool maker so we snuck into his work to get some of the correct bolts and just re threaded the connecting part.
If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
The joys of working outside , in the rain , in winter , in the uk . I feel your pain !
Its murder. I have 2 cars that need MOT'd in January. Think this year I might get them tested again in June so that I can fix them in warm rain next year.
BTJustice , thanks for the video , just used it to replace the CV boot on my Audi a2 , went about as I expected , only I got sunburnt !
Show off.
Loving the super powers...
Thanks everso, these VW ‘Knock Off’ CV’s are new to me (I’m used to old Pugs) so glad to swot up a bit in the comfort of my Lounge, save time and swearing out in the cold when I do the job. Like a number of your vids, looking forward to watching em later.
Excellent video showing exactly what to do. Just completed the job with your guidance and it went without a hitch. Thank you.
Fantastic Luke, I'm really glad you found the video helpfull and great to know you tackled the job and won.
Love how the VW logo on the wheel lines up when u park
Thank you. Like how you use cable ties to keep the strut and hub carrier out of the way
You're made of sterner stuff than me, I hate working on cars in the rain. Top marks, job well done.
Cheers. Dont get much choice in Scotland, its a good day when its not snowing :-D
@@AstonishingGlasgow Yep, definitely. I'm in North Lanarkshire, been bloody freezing here recently but luckily have a garage to keep the rain off. I remember doing welding on my brother's golf under a tarpaulin because it was snowing, never again!
You cant be too far away from me, Im on the southside of Glasgow. The same week I did the CV joint and door lock module on this car I had to replace the flex section of the exhaust for the mot. Started at 3pm and finished in the dark at 6pm and I had a tide line right around me where I was lying in a puddle :-). Kept getting shocks off my welder because my gloves were soaked through and I was getting my fingers too close to the tip. Sometimes wonder why I bother. :-D
@@AstonishingGlasgow I gave up welding on my brother's golf when I started getting zapped. Always welcome in my garage!
I love all of the VW
That grand finish👌
Great informative video, thanks. I would recommend anyone doing this to pack the grease right into the workings of the CV joint, and to do it before connecting it to the drive shaft for ease. Also have to recommend cleaning all the greasy debris from the brake disc before refitting the road wheel.
That's smart, thanks for the tip.
Great video and guide! Thank you 👏
Thank you it really helped me !
Thanks! part cost £20 your vid saved me half a day!
Glad it helped.
Excellent video. Well filmed with fixed camera positions so all the details were sharp and you can really see what is happening in each shot. Nicely cut together too with no waffle shots. This will definitely help me with this job. One suggestion, you could do a voiceover once you've cut all the clips together, I'm sure you would do just as good a job of this as the footage. 😁
Thanks, Im really glad you liked the video and found it useful. I thought about doing a voice over but I quite like the challenge of telling the story through image only and if I do a voice over, it would need subtitles for other languages. Plus im not sure I would be able to do it very well.
Nice doing this tomorrow nice to know the joints are just knock off 👍👍👍👍👍
Worse bit of the job is the mess the old grease makes. It somehow gets everywhere. If you get a chance today, soak the 3 ball joint bolts with penetrating oil today to give it a chance to soak in before you try and remove them tomorrow.
Thanks for the video 📹
Thanks a billion
Have this job to do on the Polo in the next coming days. Cracking video! Good to know that I can get away with not removing the tie rod end 👍
great job pal! wow the 'Pains Manual' makes it a bit more complicated!
Very Good video 👍
Jedi force powers, but nobody can’t stop it raining half way through a job in good old Blighty.
One of the down sides of working outside in Scotland.
Thank you!
Watching from Sydney,AUS awesome video. Was thinking of doing it myself, but I think i'l pass and leave this one for the pros.
Thanks. Retreat is often the better part of valour. If you dont think you can do the job its better to seek help before starting it and being left stuck half way through.
great vid I`m about to do this to my skoda fabia mk1 which I`m told is a polo 9n just with a fabia body they are virtually the same car
Hope this video helped and It should all look similar in the Fabia door. Hope it goes well.
Thank you
Just when you finished the rain stops ;)
Its Scotland. The rain never stops :-D
Fantastic video clearly illustrating what to do. I wonder though, are there any special tools needed to remove and replace the wheel cover and what distance do you stand away from the car when doing it? Asking for a friend....
Thanks and glad it helped. For removing the wheel cover you have to unlearn what you have learned. Try not. Do or do not, there is no try.
@@AstonishingGlasgow yes master.
Hi thanks for the video. I am struggling to get the hub but off I have a 12 point 36 mm and 34mm the 36 is too big and the 34 is too small?? Really boggles me? Any suggestions? Thanks
That is a problem. Is there any chance its a non standard CV joint or that a previous expert has rounded it off?
Enjoyed the video so much, so helpful. What was the reason for changing the outer CV joint in your car?
I have a Polo 6N2 and am having some issues with steering wheel, as it is not smooth when turning to center, it wobbles and shakes when turning itself center after a turn. The outer CV joints are suspicious for me, but I am not sure..
Im really glad you found it usefull. The issue I had that led me to change the CV joint was that the boot had split and needed replaced and when I inspected the drive shaft there was lots of play in the CV joint. If I was you I would jack up the front of the car (and support on stands) and check the condition of the lower ball joints and upper suspension bushes. These are what tend to influence the smooth operation of the steering more than the CV joint. While under there have a check on lower control arm bushes and check power steering fluid level for good measure as well. Hope you get it sorted and thanks for watching, Dave.
BTJustice Lower ball joints were replaced 2 months ago, power steering fluid was changed last week but the problem still exists. Suspension bushes and tie rods have not been checked yet, I will give a try soon. But, the most interesting thing is that the steering wherl is excellent while the wheels are not moving/rotating. When the wheels start to move/rotate, the steering wheel turns wobbly/shaky. I tested it by jacking the car up; the front wheels were not touching the ground, the steering was excellent and smooth. I put 1st gear, the wheels started rotating, and the steering wheel starts turning wobbly/shaky. It lost its smooth turn after the wheels started rotating. This is why the cv joints are suspicious to me, but I am also confused after this test..
Sounds like it wouldnt hurt to change the outer CV joints then. They are cheap enough and if you had the ball joints off recently you know they will come apart.
BTJustice I’ve never done this replacement before. But maybe I can try, however my first focus is to find the exact cause of this problem. I’ll get underneath the car tomorrow, and will have someone to rotate the wheels while they are jacking up, maybe I can see what’s balancing at this moment. This problem annoyed me so much.
I hadnt changed a CV joint either until I made the video. Got to start somewhere ;-) With the front of the car off the ground I would push, pull and pry at every bush to see if there is play in any of them. Hope you get to the bottom of it.
Big fan of your videos
When the Cv joint has the problem, what would we notice like the sound when you turn or any unusual feedback?
Thanks
Thanks, Im glad you enjoy the videos. A failing CV joint is not always noticeable until you get under the car and look for play in the half shaft or a split in the rubber boot but you can look out for a ticking or grinding noise when the joint is under load or when the steering is at full lock.
BTJustice
Thanks for your help!!!.
You are more than welcome.
Great video can you please tell me where you got the shaft nut removal bit and what size.
Its a 36mm multi point socket and I am pretty sure I got mine for less than £10 from ebay.
Hello my friend I need to replace cv axle and i buy a new cv axle with the same OEM number but the new one does not have that metal ring on the top of cv joint it is okey to mount without that or it nessesary to have it ... Thnx a lot if you help me
Sorry for not replying sooner. You will probably find that the ring will pop off the old CV joint. My old joint had a plastic ring and with the new joint the metal ring was loose in the box and just pressed on. I think its a dust cover for the wheel bearing and ABS sensor.
Brother thnx for video you help us a lot with all those videos but can you tell me how much time take you to change CV joint .? Thnx a million times
No problem and I am really glad you found my videos useful. I think it would take about an hour to change the CV joint. It took me a lot longer as I had to set up the camera for each shot but if everything comes apart and you dont rush it I would estimate around an hour from wheel off to wheel back on.
Okey cool thank you 😃 .... so much.
I remove it from the old one but the new cv axle have the top of diameter Little bit bigger than old one
Hiya don’t suppose you have a link for the 36mm 12point socket do you? Cheers!
I bought mine at a local tool store so I dont have a link. They are readily available and not a VW specific item.
@@AstonishingGlasgow no worries cheers bud
Very Good video! Only need some ti-ripes but With what size is the hub to take it of for a VW polo 9n3
32mm I think
Its a 36mm multi point as shown in the video.
@@AstonishingGlasgow apologies, I was thinking of the rear hub
@@AstonishingGlasgow thanks !
My daughter's polo seems to be having the same issues yours does! Unfortunately, the cv joint doesn't want to knock off as easily as yours appeared to.
If it wont come off the shaft you may need to unbolt the inner CV joint from the gearbox and clamp the shaft in a vice for better access.
Thats how you do it
what is the socket size of the large centre nut .
its a 36mm 12 point socket.
2/3 of the bolts on the control arm are just spinning, any help with this?
The nuts are not captive. The bolts passt through the control arm with the nuts on top. The three nuts are vonnected by a V shaped piece of metal. One of mine was turning as the nut had rusted from the V shape plate but I was able to get maul grips on it and remove the bolt.
What size outer cv boot is it for that car length and inner diameters
Im afraid it was two years ago when I did this job and the part came straight out of the box and on the car so I dont have the measurements.
How did you know you needed? As I I think I might. Great video
Cheers. It needed changed when it failed on the MOT for having too much play.
@@AstonishingGlasgow ah I see. Cheers
Which size of socket are using to unlock centre bolt of excel
Its a 36mm multipoint socket.
What did you do with the small clip that was left
Wouldn't be right to use ALL the parts 🤣. The clip that was fitted seemed to be doing its job fine and my fingers were covered in grease by that point so I left it there.
Only a brave man disconnects a VAG ball joint like that.
Brave or stupid? I think I come closer to the second option but it worked.
The scratched hubcaps
What is the split washer for
Sits in the groove at end of the drive shaft and helps to hold the CV joint until it is bolted to the hub. My old one was fine so left it in place rather than use the new one.
Can't you just replace the gaiter? I mean if it's letting the grease come out maybe replacing the outer part will fix it.
You could but its just as much work to replace the gaiter as it is to change the CV joint and its only £40-£50 for the full kit. I swapped both because my CV was worn and making noises but had the joint been ok i would still have swapped it as I didn't know how old it was.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Thank you so much for the reply and for the video, very helpful.
What size socket please and brand
I dont have them to hand but I'm sure it comes up in text on the video or in the prior comments.
Currently doing mine and the joint just will not budge
If it wont budge in situ you may need to unbolt the inner CV joint from the gearbox and clamp the shaft in a vice to get better access to swing a hammer at it.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Got it off now, and the new one one. Just needed patience
Is patience the name of your bigger hammer?😄 Glad you got it now get ready for the fun of washing the cv grease off of everything.
What size is the rubber cv boot
Im afraid it was two years ago when I did this job and the part came straight out of the box and on the car so I dont have the measurements.
What size socket is it to remove nut
36mm multi point. 0:45
Just sheared off two of the bolts connecting the suspension arm oops
Disaster!! On the plus side they are not captive so once all three are out you could use nuts and bolts but make sure they are the same size, strength and use nylock nuts.
@@AstonishingGlasgow fortunately my dad is a tool maker so we snuck into his work to get some of the correct bolts and just re threaded the connecting part.
Good job.
😜
lmao
lmao