When I was being taught to make hammers we would drift the eye and then once the eye was too cold to forge use the drift as a handle to radius the hammer face. Also the hammer was held at a shallow angle and rotated around the cupping tool. This not only introduced a radius to the hammer face but also helped release the drift.
Yes, forming radius immediately after drifting is definitely a way to go about putting a radius on the hammer face. The idea of holding at an angle and rotating is a super idea that I think may also reduce, if not eliminate, the flaring of the edges. Very good stuff... Thanks and happy new year. Glen
Martin, Thanks for confirming again what some others have said - that you prefer videos that basically show the whole process. I'll do my best moving forward to improve my videos. Have a happy new year. Glen
Todd, given feedback like yours, I'll continue in this format but do my best to make improvements to my content and filming technique. Have a happy New Year. Glen
Awesome work as always glen and what an awesome find with the vice can't beat a good old British built vice. Have a good Xmas if they celebrate it when we do anyway buddy 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
A new friend here (who is interested in blacksmithing) found this vise for me. I need to sort the jaws out to suit how I prefer them to be and it'll be good to go... Have a happy new year. Glen
It seems to me Glen, than if you hammer a slight chamfer around the perimeter of the face before you go to the cupping tool, you will eliminate that flaring of the face. You'll have to experiment to see how much chamfer is needed.
I was thinking the same Glen, hammer a minor bevel round the edge, then do what G.Bell suggested. You might be able to knock out a few finishing steps, or at least shorten them. AAR
That was my thought as well...plus it'll give you enough material to completely fill in the radius tool, nearly eliminating the need for any grinding. Great video as always, Glen. Hope y'all have a merry Christmas!
Scott, That's a very good idea and something I will definitely do. Also, Thomas Johnston's comment above is true - if the cupping tool (swage) depression is wider than the hammer I'm working, the edges shouldn't flare out as much. Thanks (Scott, Albert, James) for sharing this good suggestion. Happy new year. Glen
I'm very happy to have acquired that vise. I got it through a friend who knew I was on the lookout for a good vise for a while. Very glad you're enjoying my videos - I'll do my best to improve things in 2017. Happy New Year. Glen
Marc, It's my pleasure to share the videos with folks who might find them interesting or educational in any way. I also learn lot when posting such videos from some of the good suggestions in the comments. Hope you had a Merry Christmas and have a wonderful New Year. Glen
Edgar, It's my pleasure. So many guys have given useful suggestions in the comments so that I also gain from others' knowledge and insight. Have a wonderful New Year. Thanks. Glen
Great idea Glen to get a more consistent radius with fewer hammer blows. I had my very first newbie blk smithing experience with my home made wood burning forge and a .5" rod of mild round stock. heated it and cut 2" end off, reheated five times, compress it down longitudinally to 1.25" and squared it to a rectangle. It didn't turn out perfect but all in all i achieved a decent job. Next is to octagon it then drift a hole to turn into a tiny hammer head.
Jim, On paper, this tool seems like it should work well but for me, it's hasn't worked out too well. I think I need to make this in a larger size. with a much larger concave area for working hammer faces. I think you're approaching your blacksmithing correctly - one step at a time. It's important to understand how hot steel moves under hammer blows and to perfect techniques like drawing, squaring and rounding stock and the like before actually making something of use. And it's best to learn while using small to medium sized stock. Thanks for watching and good luck in your work. Glen
Very cool. What about this bottom die? Or swage? Set in to the plate deeper and chamfer or secondary taper so you don't get the mushrooming edge. Thanks and have a great Christmas you and your family
Excellent ideas. Some others have also pointed out these two things but only you pointed out both in one comment. I think the combination of chamfering the edge and deepening and widening the cupping tool will prevent the edges from flaring (mushrooming) out. Thanks and happy New Year. Glen
After reading your comment and examining the cupping swage and hammer I worked in the video, I think this is an excellent idea and I will certainly do this. Thanks and Happy New Year. Glen
Lol And Bobs Your Uncle xD nice vise and another great video always enjoy watching good work. I also made your fire poker with a longer piece of steel came out to be fantastic thanks!
Agradeciendo su dedicación, un año mas, DESEARLE TODA LA FELICIDAD EN ESTAS FECHAS Y UN PRÓSPERO 2017... durante el que espero y deseo, siga compartiendo sus saberes con cuantos le seguimos Un fuerte abrazo, Juan Dsd El Puerto de Santa María... España
Thanks for watching my channel and I hope you also have a prosperous and joyous new year. I'll do my best to improve my videos, etc. I'm always happy to share with those who appreciate... Glen
Hey Glen, really enjoy your videos! Been getting my workshop ready for forging and your tutorials are giving me a lot of ideas. How do you keep scale off your forging? I get massive amounts of scale while forging. Have a good one.
I'm glad you like my videos. With blacksmithing, scale will always form to some degree. it's a good idea to brush off your workpieces every so often and in fact, old timers would brush off scale immediately after removing from the forge, before doing any hammering. Another thing to consider is your forge. if coal (or charcoal), you may want to build it up more and and get your workpiece away from the top or bottom - have it positioned in the middle buried under some coal. If gas, forming too much scale might mean that you are running too oxygen rich - oxygen is not being completely consumed in the fire. But I have also found that a gas rich fire can form a strange sort of scale that doesn't flake off and is hard to remove. Try to get your forge running as neutral as possible. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Glen
Liam, Sorry for the late reply. I guess it would depend on the size of the press but I think it would work. And other than a hydraulic press, I think a fly press would also be suitable (as an unplugged option) and this is a tool I would like to get in the future. Thanks for watching. Glen
Hi Glen. good video. Question from a new hobbiest blacksmith like me. what is the difference between doing the convex radius with your new tool then using a grinder to make the hammer convex radius. Marco
Marco, There isn't too much difference between forming the radius via hammering or via grinding. However, many blacksmiths (myself included) feel that steel (the grain structure) is improved through proper hammering at the right temperature which "packs" it, making the steel denser and harder. But as far as the radius shape is concerned, either way will do. Thanks and have a Happy New Year. Glen
Some different jaw faces such as brass, softer steel and so on to hold without marring would be handy for the new vise. You have shamed me into it, I am contacting Traders Metal tomorrow to find out what 150-pound piece of steel suitable for an anvil will set me back. It sucks being on pension. Mike
Mike, You, like many of us, may be limited by budget but not imagination. I'm sure if you look around you'll find what you need. And thanks for he brass jaw suggestion. It reminds me of using copper jaw inserts to not mar work in the past. Glen
When I was being taught to make hammers we would drift the eye and then once the eye was too cold to forge use the drift as a handle to radius the hammer face. Also the hammer was held at a shallow angle and rotated around the cupping tool. This not only introduced a radius to the hammer face but also helped release the drift.
Yes, forming radius immediately after drifting is definitely a way to go about putting a radius on the hammer face. The idea of holding at an angle and rotating is a super idea that I think may also reduce, if not eliminate, the flaring of the edges. Very good stuff... Thanks and happy new year. Glen
-Glen
great video very informative and the length is fine it shows the process I think this is what most of us like...
Martin
Martin, Thanks for confirming again what some others have said - that you prefer videos that basically show the whole process. I'll do my best moving forward to improve my videos. Have a happy new year. Glen
Another great and informative video length is perfect..
Todd, given feedback like yours, I'll continue in this format but do my best to make improvements to my content and filming technique. Have a happy New Year. Glen
Awesome work as always glen and what an awesome find with the vice can't beat a good old British built vice. Have a good Xmas if they celebrate it when we do anyway buddy 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
A new friend here (who is interested in blacksmithing) found this vise for me. I need to sort the jaws out to suit how I prefer them to be and it'll be good to go... Have a happy new year. Glen
Thanks for sharing Glen, From mine to yours a very merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Scott, My pleasure. Have a wonderful holiday season. Glen
Merry Christmas Glen, thanks for the year's tutorials. Looking forward to next year!.
Hope you had a Merry Christmas too. Hopefully, the new year will be an even better one for all. Happy holidays. Glen
Glen, I hope you and your wife have a wonderful holiday season and a prosperous new year.
Jeffrey, Likewise to you and your family. Thanks for continuing to watch my channel. Glen
It seems to me Glen, than if you hammer a slight chamfer around the perimeter of the face before you go to the cupping tool, you will eliminate that flaring of the face. You'll have to experiment to see how much chamfer is needed.
I was thinking the same Glen, hammer a minor bevel round the edge, then do what G.Bell suggested. You might be able to knock out a few finishing steps, or at least shorten them.
AAR
That was my thought as well...plus it'll give you enough material to completely fill in the radius tool, nearly eliminating the need for any grinding. Great video as always, Glen. Hope y'all have a merry Christmas!
Scott, That's a very good idea and something I will definitely do. Also, Thomas Johnston's comment above is true - if the cupping tool (swage) depression is wider than the hammer I'm working, the edges shouldn't flare out as much. Thanks (Scott, Albert, James) for sharing this good suggestion. Happy new year. Glen
Great video (as always). Fantastic vise!
I'm very happy to have acquired that vise. I got it through a friend who knew I was on the lookout for a good vise for a while. Very glad you're enjoying my videos - I'll do my best to improve things in 2017. Happy New Year. Glen
Well done Glen. Thanks for yet another educational video! Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Marc, It's my pleasure to share the videos with folks who might find them interesting or educational in any way. I also learn lot when posting such videos from some of the good suggestions in the comments. Hope you had a Merry Christmas and have a wonderful New Year. Glen
very nice toolmaking video again, thanks for showing us!
Edgar, It's my pleasure. So many guys have given useful suggestions in the comments so that I also gain from others' knowledge and insight. Have a wonderful New Year. Thanks. Glen
Great idea Glen to get a more consistent radius with fewer hammer blows. I had my very first newbie blk smithing experience with my home made wood burning forge and a .5" rod of mild round stock. heated it and cut 2" end off, reheated five times, compress it down longitudinally to 1.25" and squared it to a rectangle. It didn't turn out perfect but all in all i achieved a decent job. Next is to octagon it then drift a hole to turn into a tiny hammer head.
Jim, On paper, this tool seems like it should work well but for me, it's hasn't worked out too well. I think I need to make this in a larger size. with a much larger concave area for working hammer faces. I think you're approaching your blacksmithing correctly - one step at a time. It's important to understand how hot steel moves under hammer blows and to perfect techniques like drawing, squaring and rounding stock and the like before actually making something of use. And it's best to learn while using small to medium sized stock. Thanks for watching and good luck in your work. Glen
Merry Christmas Glen
Ron, Hope you had a merry Christmas and have a happy New Year. I look forward to good things in 2017. Glen
good one. thanks Glen
Alex, Thanks for watching. Happy New Year. Glen
forte Glen questo video, ti auguro un Buon Natale a te la tua famiglia . Complimenti!
Paolo, Glad you find this video to your liking. I wish you and your family all the best for this coming year. Thanks. Glen
Very cool. What about this bottom die? Or swage? Set in to the plate deeper and chamfer or secondary taper so you don't get the mushrooming edge. Thanks and have a great Christmas you and your family
Excellent ideas. Some others have also pointed out these two things but only you pointed out both in one comment. I think the combination of chamfering the edge and deepening and widening the cupping tool will prevent the edges from flaring (mushrooming) out. Thanks and happy New Year. Glen
Exactly
muy ingenioso trabajo
nice video. Merry Christmas to you!😉
Jeffrey, Hope you had a Merry Christmas and that the coming new year is a good one for you and your family. Thanks. Glen
if you make the swage with a larger diameter hammer die you will get less mushroom from on the actually sized hammers.
After reading your comment and examining the cupping swage and hammer I worked in the video, I think this is an excellent idea and I will certainly do this. Thanks and Happy New Year. Glen
great video sir. interesting anvils
Drew, Thanks for watching. Have a Happy New Year. Glen
Lol And Bobs Your Uncle xD nice vise and another great video always enjoy watching good work. I also made your fire poker with a longer piece of steel came out to be fantastic thanks!
Glad you're still watching. Have a happy new year. Glen
Agradeciendo su dedicación, un año mas, DESEARLE TODA LA FELICIDAD EN ESTAS FECHAS Y UN PRÓSPERO 2017... durante el que espero y deseo, siga compartiendo sus saberes con cuantos le seguimos
Un fuerte abrazo, Juan
Dsd El Puerto de Santa María... España
Thanks for watching my channel and I hope you also have a prosperous and joyous new year. I'll do my best to improve my videos, etc. I'm always happy to share with those who appreciate... Glen
What function does the double quench serve? Wouldn't the first quench be voided by heating it back up for the second quench?
Hey Glen, really enjoy your videos! Been getting my workshop ready for forging and your tutorials are giving me a lot of ideas. How do you keep scale off your forging? I get massive amounts of scale while forging.
Have a good one.
I'm glad you like my videos. With blacksmithing, scale will always form to some degree. it's a good idea to brush off your workpieces every so often and in fact, old timers would brush off scale immediately after removing from the forge, before doing any hammering. Another thing to consider is your forge. if coal (or charcoal), you may want to build it up more and and get your workpiece away from the top or bottom - have it positioned in the middle buried under some coal. If gas, forming too much scale might mean that you are running too oxygen rich - oxygen is not being completely consumed in the fire. But I have also found that a gas rich fire can form a strange sort of scale that doesn't flake off and is hard to remove. Try to get your forge running as neutral as possible. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Glen
Is there a formula for the convex on rounding hammer I've been told like a flat ball
Hey Glen, I was wondering if using a lightweight hydraulic press to forge a piece like this would be a feasible option?
Liam, Sorry for the late reply. I guess it would depend on the size of the press but I think it would work. And other than a hydraulic press, I think a fly press would also be suitable (as an unplugged option) and this is a tool I would like to get in the future. Thanks for watching. Glen
Hi Glen. good video. Question from a new hobbiest blacksmith like me. what is the difference between doing the convex radius with your new tool then using a grinder to make the hammer convex radius. Marco
Marco, There isn't too much difference between forming the radius via hammering or via grinding. However, many blacksmiths (myself included) feel that steel (the grain structure) is improved through proper hammering at the right temperature which "packs" it, making the steel denser and harder. But as far as the radius shape is concerned, either way will do. Thanks and have a Happy New Year. Glen
Some different jaw faces such as brass, softer steel and so on to hold without marring would be handy for the new vise. You have shamed me into it, I am contacting Traders Metal tomorrow to find out what 150-pound piece of steel suitable for an anvil will set me back. It sucks being on pension.
Mike
Mike, You, like many of us, may be limited by budget but not imagination. I'm sure if you look around you'll find what you need. And thanks for he brass jaw suggestion. It reminds me of using copper jaw inserts to not mar work in the past. Glen