Hey @ramondelgado6778! 🌟 Wow, thank you for the kind words and for being a subscriber for a whole year! 🙏 I'm thrilled to hear that you enjoyed the review and that it proved helpful for you. Your support means a lot, and if there's anything specific you'd like to see in future reviews, feel free to let me know. Happy listening! 🎶✨
On you tube through a basic pair of Logitech speakers the difference was undeniable 48 v was an upgrade in every way. Thank you for this decision making experience.
I'm thrilled to hear that the difference between the 32V and 48V on your basic Logitech speakers was so clear, with the 48V standing out as an upgrade in every way. Thank you for sharing your decision-making experience, and I'm delighted the video was helpful for you. I
You should try one, they are fun little amps for the money. I was really surprised at the overall SQ of this little amp. So much so I ordered a pair of Sparko op amps. Plug this into a decent Class A preamp and the sound the V3 produces is more A/B than Class D, which really surprised me. I will order a pair of the Fosi ZA3 amps when they are back in stock if the Sparkos work their magic in the V3.
@@michaelwright1602 I've got dozens of such amplifiers. Some are quite good; most are quite poor. Few meet the published specs. If you are happy with an OK sounding amplifier for not much money, these are fine.
32v is definitely more smoother and smudges details more but comes across a little more mellow. 48 does bring out easily double the separation, dynamics and resolution but can come across shouty at times and a little more forward.
I have to listen to mine again, I have both power supplies and did not really hear a difference. Maybe it is my Zu DW6 Supreme speakers, 95dB 12 Ohm... It did not take much to get the Zu's singing. When I switched to the XLR outputs of my PS Audio DAC/Pre, using XLR to RCA adapters, now that made a very noticeable difference in overall SQ, as that extra bit of line voltage from the XLR outputs really allowed the V3 to breathe. Then the soundstage opened up, more room filling and instrument separation. The dynamics were a bit better, and the bass was a bit tighter and deeper. Next up, a line level booster and a pair of Sparkos.
Here's the truth ... The TPA3255 chip is fixed gain, operating at 21.5db. This means that no matter how much power you feed it, within it's safe range, the output will remain the same. Simple test: Hook up the 32 volt supply, adjust the volume to a comfortable level. Now unhook the 32 volt and plug in the 48 volt ... it will make *no difference* There is no magical transformation. No jump in volume. No change in tonality. The input signal is still amplified by 21.5db... nothing changes. The only time the 48 volt supply actually makes sense is when running at very high volumes, as a means to garner an extra 3db of dynamic headroom.
Hey @Douglas_Blake_579, appreciate your insightful comment! ! I did notice a subtle uptick in dynamics when using the 48V power supply at the same volume levels. While it might not be a night-and-day difference, there seems to be a little extra something, especially in the bass output.
To be honest, I tested the V3 several times with 32V and 48V power supply. At certain moments, it seemed to me that there was more bass and dynamics with 48V. Then I returned 32V and heard everything exactly the same. So I tried again with 48V and so on... In other words, there was no difference, everything sounded the same as with 48V. The only difference is an additional 3 Db with 48V and turning the potentiometer strength at Max. Those are my realistic observations.
@@YuriBrus Try it again with the volume control at about 9 o'clock... The only way you should hear any difference at all is if the amp was clipping with the 32volt supply. FWIW... most people turn stuff up all the way to try and evaluate it. But that just leads to sensory overload and you won't hear any of the fine detail or nuance in the reproduction. Our ears work best at about 50 to 60db, the level of normal conversation, so try your evaluations there.
@@stevanbatinic6733 Yep, that's what I hear too. All this started when a client of mine bought a "sound bar killer" system for his TV set then decided to try the 48 volt supply. The report was: _"I got the 48 volt supply for your #4 setup. I'm curious, does it really make any difference?"_ So I did the same and... no difference. Even on my test bench, no difference, except that extra 3DB at maximum volume as you pointed out.
Thankfully i have this connected to 96dB efficient towers, so theres never going to be a reason to turn it past noon or so with the standard supply andnproper gain staging.
95dB Zu's here, I cannot tell the difference between the two power supplies. Where the magic happened was when I used XLR to RCA adapters to hook the V3 to my PS Audio DAC/Preamp, that really opened up the sound and impressed the heck out of me. Prior to doing that, the V3 was ok, now it is a keeper. So much so, I ordered a pair of Sparko op amps.
In my room at my listening level around 60 dB, I did not hear any difference. I even boost the volume to 80 dB and the 48 volt psu does not give more glunt at all. Reversely, I felt 32 volt gives a bit cleaner sound, leading me to believe the 32 v psu labeled Fosi Audio is a better quality SMPS than 48 v. The fact that pisses me off is that, with 48 volt psu, the chasis generates much more heat than 32 v which, in the long run, is not good for the amplifier itself. I will recommend that in a small to medium room at normal listening level, stay with 32 volt SMPS. The power wattage rendered from 32 volt is more than sufficient.
Thank you for sharing your detailed experience, @lanx0003! It's valuable to hear real-world comparisons like yours, especially regarding heat generation and overall performance. Your recommendation for small to medium rooms at normal listening levels is certainly helpful for others considering similar setups. Thanks again for sharing your insights!
Underrated comment ❤ Thank you ! I'm planning to get a pair of ZA3s to run with a P3 just to try out these mini monoblocks over my Denon Receiver that runs my Focal Chora 806s accompanied with a REL active sub. Do you think the quality of sound will differ substantially, and is it worth the extra investment? I'll appreciate it if you can make time to answer my rather difficult questions😊 Thank you,
I very recently read a convincing expert technical review which indicated the 48v power supply may push the components to their limits, consequently shortening their working life expectancy.. What do you think ? if this is true do you accept shorter Amp lifespan is worth it for 'better' sound quality now. Bearing in mind the low price for replacing these Amps, and the the anticipated improvements in each new version.
Maybe if the amp is played at maximum volume for extended periods with difficult load. Mine barely gets warm with 48V at ''normal'' listening levels. When I get a chance I'll open it up and check if op amps are hot, but as long as it's not a fire hazard I have no concerns.
Siting the source would be helpful and what kind of shortened lifespan are we talking here? Something that might last 10 yrs now last 9? It’s just hard to quantify without solid data and evidence decreased lifespan in real world usage.
Are these as good as those power supplies with big size, weight and metal casing? Which ones are better in terms of low heat-up? I've heard Fosi supply heat up.
First you need to recognize the difference between a consumer and an industrial supply. In terms of continuous current they will deliver the same power. But the industrial supplies have a much quicker over-current protection and will shut off almost instantly when you hit their rated limit. Consumer supplies are a bit more tolerant of short bursts of current and will generally go over-current for a couple of seconds before shutting down. That difference is enough that the industrial supply would shut down on you on loud passages in your music where the consumer supply would not. There is nothing special about the power supplies that come with these amplifiers. You can use any generic supply brick that has the right voltage, enough current and the right sized plug.
I generally recommend a 36 volt 5 amp supply for these amplifiers. That is a compromise between output power and heat that will not see the amplifier bouncing into protection during loud passages. At 36 volts you will get about 75 watts/ch on 8 ohms, 140 on 4... about 105 on 6 ohms ... so you should be just fine with that.
Probably because this is a bare bones unit selling for a cheap price. There's nothing to control except volume UP-DOWN. Remote = motorized volume pot = more expensive = people complaining it's too expensive.
But this guy's presentation is not in a desktop environment. The real deal is them replace a well branded and expensive integrated amps. A remote control would be a game changer.@YuriBrus
I used to be in love with my Harmony remote. I used it to control everything. Now I use my phone to control my music player and the Harmony to control everything else. In the rare instances where I need to change the volume on the ZA3 I get up off my couch potato butt and do it manually. I still own a high end integrated that can be remote controlled.
I would pick 32V which sounds less edge and more musical. It will allow me to enjoy more recordings with much less listening fatigue. As to 'more power' it is overrated. It seems 32V provides more than adequate power for comfortable (and a bit more occasionally) listening.
I'm glad you noticed the difference in power, bass, and punch! Exploring ways to enhance existing audio equipment is always intriguing, especially when it can be achieved at an affordable price.
Much fuller sound for the 48v, but this setup really needs a sub. I'll wait for the ZA3 which has a sub output. (or even the yet unnamed tpa3255 mono blocks. I don't know if they have a sub output but that can also be handled by the pre-amp) V3 will be alright for desktop or a smaller room. I am not so sure about the source you used. A WIIM pro plus would be better with it's AK4493s chip, or the SMSL SU-1 DAC with some streaming source. Even the iBasso DC04 pro you reviewed would probably do a better job than the Arylic.
Why not get the Bt20A Pro? Im under the impression its just a V3 in a different box with Bluetooth, pre-out, and Tone controls. Id love to here your response if thats true or not? I know the ZA3 just came out so I'm torn with out of the 3 to Buy, I Passives I want to drive, The Pre-out to make active Sub would be very nice and I could live without the bluetooth but it would be nice on rare occasions.
With the larger 48-volt power supply and if it runs at close to 85% class D efficient, it might output to a maximum of around 70wpc on average with the increased headroom the 48V can supply. If wanting to use with full range tower speakers, the 48 volt power supply is likely absolutely needed. These little Class D amps might not be a good fit with most full range speakers however as they barely produce anywhere near the power level for most floor standing speakers.
By measurement... on 48volts ... 110w/ch on 8 ohms with less than 0.1% distortion, 220 on 4 ohms. Don't mistake size with limitation ... the TPA3255 was designed for pro-audio use in sound reinforcement and studio monitors. It can handle almost any speaker you hook up to it.
What 70W?)) there will be twice as much at 4 Ohm! and who told you that floor-standing speakers are not marked with peak power on the nameplate?)) theorist!))) have you heard anything about the sensitivity of acoustics or, as usual, just blurt out that the power is not enough....
@@jackdanyal4329 a sensible comment, although floor-standing speakers do not always have good sensitivity, and if they are 8 Ohm, this also aggravates the situation...
I use v3 and I both have 32V and 48V power supply. Difference with my monitor audio bookshelf speaker is very definite. 48V has more dynamic range and more dominant bass. But at the and of the day I have to return to my class a amplifier for good relaxing music enjoyment. V3 is too analitic for me. It is like math. No magic in it.
Hey @tamayaytam! 🎶 Thanks for sharing your experience with the V3 and both the 32V and 48V power supplies. It's interesting to hear how the 48V adds more dynamic range and dominant bass, providing a different sonic flavor. It's true, everyone has their own taste in sound, and if you find the V3 a bit too analytical for your preference, that's totally valid! Sometimes, the magic is in the subjective enjoyment.
@@seratractivo7231 Yes and that's you. People are living in complete illusion these days. I am not against the fosi v3 amp at all, but this videos audio sounded like crap. Infact I am considering of getting their latest ZA 3.
@@Jamy4ya You cannot judge sound quality over the internet. You tube, uses signal compression, the various video editors tend to modify gains, and, don't forget you are listening to your own local amp and speakers. On my desk that sound sample sounded exactly like a Muse T-amp and a pair of Minimus 7 speakers... they all do... because that is what I'm actually listening to. Don't ditch on it till you try it. I have TB10D, A07, and several DIY boards on hand with the TPA3255 chips... the sound quality is excellent and the power is ample for most home uses.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 hi - I also have the TB10D amp, and am currently using to run some tower speakers that take anywhere from 20 to 150 watts @ 8 ohms, do you think the 48v upgrade would be worth the purchase here?
@@gsdubz9931 With the TB10D ... no. That is a fully enclosed case and at 48volts that chip is going to get HOT. If it doesn't go into protection, it's going to end up baking itself. I generally recommend 36v 10 amps as the maximum supply for these mini-amps in sealed cases. Most people use 32 or 36 volt supplies rated for 5 amps with very good results. Do a search for "The DBpages music" and you can see what I've done to mine.
Excellent review!!!! I've been looking for this review and really enjoyed your take on this subject!!! Thank you so much!!!!!
Hey @ramondelgado6778! 🌟 Wow, thank you for the kind words and for being a subscriber for a whole year! 🙏 I'm thrilled to hear that you enjoyed the review and that it proved helpful for you. Your support means a lot, and if there's anything specific you'd like to see in future reviews, feel free to let me know. Happy listening! 🎶✨
On you tube through a basic pair of Logitech speakers the difference was undeniable 48 v was an upgrade in every way. Thank you for this decision making experience.
I'm thrilled to hear that the difference between the 32V and 48V on your basic Logitech speakers was so clear, with the 48V standing out as an upgrade in every way. Thank you for sharing your decision-making experience, and I'm delighted the video was helpful for you. I
Fosi are handing these things out free, like candy, to anyone that will sing the right song.
You should try one, they are fun little amps for the money. I was really surprised at the overall SQ of this little amp. So much so I ordered a pair of Sparko op amps. Plug this into a decent Class A preamp and the sound the V3 produces is more A/B than Class D, which really surprised me. I will order a pair of the Fosi ZA3 amps when they are back in stock if the Sparkos work their magic in the V3.
@@michaelwright1602 I've got dozens of such amplifiers. Some are quite good; most are quite poor. Few meet the published specs. If you are happy with an OK sounding amplifier for not much money, these are fine.
@@michaelwright1602 which preamp do you use/sugest?
32v is definitely more smoother and smudges details more but comes across a little more mellow. 48 does bring out easily double the separation, dynamics and resolution but can come across shouty at times and a little more forward.
Thanks for sharing your comparison, @L00peey! It's interesting to hear your thoughts on the differences between 32v and 48. Appreciate the insight!
@@YuriBrus tbh my topping tp-60 heavily modified sounds better both these amps have a stale and artificial soul sound once op amps are added.
I have to listen to mine again, I have both power supplies and did not really hear a difference. Maybe it is my Zu DW6 Supreme speakers, 95dB 12 Ohm... It did not take much to get the Zu's singing. When I switched to the XLR outputs of my PS Audio DAC/Pre, using XLR to RCA adapters, now that made a very noticeable difference in overall SQ, as that extra bit of line voltage from the XLR outputs really allowed the V3 to breathe. Then the soundstage opened up, more room filling and instrument separation. The dynamics were a bit better, and the bass was a bit tighter and deeper. Next up, a line level booster and a pair of Sparkos.
Here's the truth ... The TPA3255 chip is fixed gain, operating at 21.5db. This means that no matter how much power you feed it, within it's safe range, the output will remain the same.
Simple test: Hook up the 32 volt supply, adjust the volume to a comfortable level. Now unhook the 32 volt and plug in the 48 volt ... it will make *no difference*
There is no magical transformation. No jump in volume. No change in tonality. The input signal is still amplified by 21.5db... nothing changes.
The only time the 48 volt supply actually makes sense is when running at very high volumes, as a means to garner an extra 3db of dynamic headroom.
Hey @Douglas_Blake_579, appreciate your insightful comment! ! I did notice a subtle uptick in dynamics when using the 48V power supply at the same volume levels. While it might not be a night-and-day difference, there seems to be a little extra something, especially in the bass output.
To be honest, I tested the V3 several times with 32V and 48V power supply. At certain moments, it seemed to me that there was more bass and dynamics with 48V. Then I returned 32V and heard everything exactly the same. So I tried again with 48V and so on... In other words, there was no difference, everything sounded the same as with 48V. The only difference is an additional 3 Db with 48V and turning the potentiometer strength at Max. Those are my realistic observations.
@@YuriBrus
Try it again with the volume control at about 9 o'clock...
The only way you should hear any difference at all is if the amp was clipping with the 32volt supply.
FWIW... most people turn stuff up all the way to try and evaluate it. But that just leads to sensory overload and you won't hear any of the fine detail or nuance in the reproduction. Our ears work best at about 50 to 60db, the level of normal conversation, so try your evaluations there.
@@stevanbatinic6733
Yep, that's what I hear too.
All this started when a client of mine bought a "sound bar killer" system for his TV set then decided to try the 48 volt supply.
The report was: _"I got the 48 volt supply for your #4 setup. I'm curious, does it really make any difference?"_
So I did the same and... no difference. Even on my test bench, no difference, except that extra 3DB at maximum volume as you pointed out.
Yes, I try it with different power supplies 32V 5A, 36V 6A, and 48V 5A the same level of volume. I usually listen with the volume knob at 12 o`clock.
Thankfully i have this connected to 96dB efficient towers, so theres never going to be a reason to turn it past noon or so with the standard supply andnproper gain staging.
95dB Zu's here, I cannot tell the difference between the two power supplies. Where the magic happened was when I used XLR to RCA adapters to hook the V3 to my PS Audio DAC/Preamp, that really opened up the sound and impressed the heck out of me. Prior to doing that, the V3 was ok, now it is a keeper. So much so, I ordered a pair of Sparko op amps.
Fosi also sells another 48V GaN power supply, supposedly even more efficient that you should put up against the standard 48V.
That would be so great, I haven't seen anybody using it yet. I saw a TH-cam comment saying it was terrible, but I have questions about that.
What’s the song @ 4:06?
Was the 48volt the 5amp version or the 10amp version? Nevermind its the 5amp version. Like a totally different amplifier
In my room at my listening level around 60 dB, I did not hear any difference. I even boost the volume to 80 dB and the 48 volt psu does not give more glunt at all. Reversely, I felt 32 volt gives a bit cleaner sound, leading me to believe the 32 v psu labeled Fosi Audio is a better quality SMPS than 48 v. The fact that pisses me off is that, with 48 volt psu, the chasis generates much more heat than 32 v which, in the long run, is not good for the amplifier itself. I will recommend that in a small to medium room at normal listening level, stay with 32 volt SMPS. The power wattage rendered from 32 volt is more than sufficient.
Thank you for sharing your detailed experience, @lanx0003! It's valuable to hear real-world comparisons like yours, especially regarding heat generation and overall performance. Your recommendation for small to medium rooms at normal listening levels is certainly helpful for others considering similar setups. Thanks again for sharing your insights!
Underrated comment ❤
Thank you !
I'm planning to get a pair of ZA3s to run with a P3 just to try out these mini monoblocks over my Denon Receiver that runs my Focal Chora 806s accompanied with a REL active sub.
Do you think the quality of sound will differ substantially, and is it worth the extra investment?
I'll appreciate it if you can make time to answer my rather difficult questions😊
Thank you,
@@dost328 Get Fosi V3 Mono instead.
I very recently read a convincing expert technical review which indicated the 48v power supply may push the components to their limits, consequently shortening their working life expectancy.. What do you think ? if this is true do you accept shorter Amp lifespan is worth it for 'better' sound quality now. Bearing in mind the low price for replacing these Amps, and the the anticipated improvements in each new version.
Maybe if the amp is played at maximum volume for extended periods with difficult load. Mine barely gets warm with 48V at ''normal'' listening levels. When I get a chance I'll open it up and check if op amps are hot, but as long as it's not a fire hazard I have no concerns.
Siting the source would be helpful and what kind of shortened lifespan are we talking here? Something that might last 10 yrs now last 9? It’s just hard to quantify without solid data and evidence decreased lifespan in real world usage.
Are these as good as those power supplies with big size, weight and metal casing? Which ones are better in terms of low heat-up? I've heard Fosi supply heat up.
First you need to recognize the difference between a consumer and an industrial supply.
In terms of continuous current they will deliver the same power.
But the industrial supplies have a much quicker over-current protection and will shut off almost instantly when you hit their rated limit.
Consumer supplies are a bit more tolerant of short bursts of current and will generally go over-current for a couple of seconds before shutting down.
That difference is enough that the industrial supply would shut down on you on loud passages in your music where the consumer supply would not.
There is nothing special about the power supplies that come with these amplifiers. You can use any generic supply brick that has the right voltage, enough current and the right sized plug.
So glad I opted for the 48v ps
Which one is better to drive 100Watts, 6-ohms, 3way speakers with built in 10-inch woofer?
I generally recommend a 36 volt 5 amp supply for these amplifiers. That is a compromise between output power and heat that will not see the amplifier bouncing into protection during loud passages.
At 36 volts you will get about 75 watts/ch on 8 ohms, 140 on 4... about 105 on 6 ohms ... so you should be just fine with that.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 ok...thanks
Why no remote?
These kinds of amps are best used in a near field environment, like at a desk. Therefore, a remote control is usually not needed.
Probably because this is a bare bones unit selling for a cheap price. There's nothing to control except volume UP-DOWN. Remote = motorized volume pot = more expensive = people complaining it's too expensive.
But this guy's presentation is not in a desktop environment. The real deal is them replace a well branded and expensive integrated amps. A remote control would be a game changer.@YuriBrus
I used to be in love with my Harmony remote. I used it to control everything. Now I use my phone to control my music player and the Harmony to control everything else. In the rare instances where I need to change the volume on the ZA3 I get up off my couch potato butt and do it manually. I still own a high end integrated that can be remote controlled.
@@uribar-ner5055Use a Wiim Pro streamer into the amp and then you can use a remote.
I would pick 32V which sounds less edge and more musical. It will allow me to enjoy more recordings with much less listening fatigue. As to 'more power' it is overrated. It seems 32V provides more than adequate power for comfortable (and a bit more occasionally) listening.
"Gonna Make You Pop"???? Strange music and artist. Anyway, yes I can hear a definite difference in Power, Bass & Punch. Great test!
I'm glad you noticed the difference in power, bass, and punch! Exploring ways to enhance existing audio equipment is always intriguing, especially when it can be achieved at an affordable price.
Much fuller sound for the 48v, but this setup really needs a sub. I'll wait for the ZA3 which has a sub output. (or even the yet unnamed tpa3255 mono blocks. I don't know if they have a sub output but that can also be handled by the pre-amp) V3 will be alright for desktop or a smaller room. I am not so sure about the source you used. A WIIM pro plus would be better with it's AK4493s chip, or the SMSL SU-1 DAC with some streaming source. Even the iBasso DC04 pro you reviewed would probably do a better job than the Arylic.
Why not get the Bt20A Pro? Im under the impression its just a V3 in a different box with Bluetooth, pre-out, and Tone controls. Id love to here your response if thats true or not? I know the ZA3 just came out so I'm torn with out of the 3 to Buy, I Passives I want to drive, The Pre-out to make active Sub would be very nice and I could live without the bluetooth but it would be nice on rare occasions.
Your mom needed a sub ....
With the larger 48-volt power supply and if it runs at close to 85% class D efficient, it might output to a maximum of around 70wpc on average with the increased headroom the 48V can supply. If wanting to use with full range tower speakers, the 48 volt power supply is likely absolutely needed. These little Class D amps might not be a good fit with most full range speakers however as they barely produce anywhere near the power level for most floor standing speakers.
By measurement... on 48volts ... 110w/ch on 8 ohms with less than 0.1% distortion, 220 on 4 ohms.
Don't mistake size with limitation ... the TPA3255 was designed for pro-audio use in sound reinforcement and studio monitors. It can handle almost any speaker you hook up to it.
What 70W?)) there will be twice as much at 4 Ohm! and who told you that floor-standing speakers are not marked with peak power on the nameplate?)) theorist!))) have you heard anything about the sensitivity of acoustics or, as usual, just blurt out that the power is not enough....
floor standing speakers are usually much easier to drive. even 50W is a lot of power.
@@jackdanyal4329 a sensible comment, although floor-standing speakers do not always have good sensitivity, and if they are 8 Ohm, this also aggravates the situation...
Ascoltato in cuffia: non è assolutamente in grado di sostituire il mio KENWOOD V4070D del 2003. 😉
Grazie per il test. 👍
I use v3 and I both have 32V and 48V power supply. Difference with my monitor audio bookshelf speaker is very definite. 48V has more dynamic range and more dominant bass. But at the and of the day I have to return to my class a amplifier for good relaxing music enjoyment. V3 is too analitic for me. It is like math. No magic in it.
Hey @tamayaytam! 🎶 Thanks for sharing your experience with the V3 and both the 32V and 48V power supplies. It's interesting to hear how the 48V adds more dynamic range and dominant bass, providing a different sonic flavor. It's true, everyone has their own taste in sound, and if you find the V3 a bit too analytical for your preference, that's totally valid! Sometimes, the magic is in the subjective enjoyment.
ah someone did this already
i got improvements with same 15v but better quality one, ofc 14v difference will
My Aiyima a07 works fine but my class a/b amps are much better (BasX a2 and Marantz SR7500).
Sounds like a 10$ Bluetooth speaker. Seriously no pun intended.
Internet is full of $.hit these daYz.
There’s always that one person
@@seratractivo7231 Yes and that's you.
People are living in complete illusion these days. I am not against the fosi v3 amp at all, but this videos audio sounded like crap.
Infact I am considering of getting their latest ZA 3.
@@Jamy4ya
You cannot judge sound quality over the internet. You tube, uses signal compression, the various video editors tend to modify gains, and, don't forget you are listening to your own local amp and speakers.
On my desk that sound sample sounded exactly like a Muse T-amp and a pair of Minimus 7 speakers... they all do... because that is what I'm actually listening to.
Don't ditch on it till you try it. I have TB10D, A07, and several DIY boards on hand with the TPA3255 chips... the sound quality is excellent and the power is ample for most home uses.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 hi - I also have the TB10D amp, and am currently using to run some tower speakers that take anywhere from 20 to 150 watts @ 8 ohms, do you think the 48v upgrade would be worth the purchase here?
@@gsdubz9931
With the TB10D ... no. That is a fully enclosed case and at 48volts that chip is going to get HOT. If it doesn't go into protection, it's going to end up baking itself.
I generally recommend 36v 10 amps as the maximum supply for these mini-amps in sealed cases. Most people use 32 or 36 volt supplies rated for 5 amps with very good results.
Do a search for "The DBpages music" and you can see what I've done to mine.
Without a current rating, your test is useless, sorry!