Hey man, I just installed a piston and rings on my 96 Sportsman yesterday. Your video saved me from a timing tragedy. The chain slipped down while taking the head off, so I took the flywheel and stator off and followed your instructions. Thank you very much and have a great Memorial Day Weekend. ✌
Think I got it, had I not been so frustrated I'd have heard you say to make sure the valves are readjusted after, did that and it seems to have cleared up, we'll see once I get it put back together, that's when the issues will ultimately show themselves lol
I hear ya man. Sometimes I have to redo things twice. I does get frustrating. The 500s can be tricky. I have learned to run it, then go back and check the valve lash again because the chain tensioner moves out after it's been ran.
@@TitaniummanGarage thanks, I did end up getting it going, thanks for the help and for the vids, I'll definitely get back in there and check the valves again now that it's got an hour or 2 on it, I ended up doing the head gasket on it too, which MAY have been when the timing went out but I suspect the previous owner reassembled incorrectly after HE did the head gasket, also incorrectly lol because I'm certain I put it back together the way it came apart. Now I'm on to doing the U joints now that I have it running
Your videos are awesome. I just installed the cam and timing chain on my polaris 500 motor. My question is when I turn the crank around a few revolutions I can not getting the 2 dots on the cam gear to line up with the 2 silver links on the chsin as you shown on your video. I'm I missing something?
I rebuild the pull starter on my scrambler , i am having issues with it when running it just turns off , looks like my timing is completely wrong, since i am no professional, and if any advice will be appreciated awesome knowledge and work
so if my t is gone and cant see it can i just line up the crank sprocket like you said and the cam sprocket and I should be good .im assuming if your crank sprocket is on the mark you must be top dead center with your valves and thanks for all your time tot video your work its good stuff
Yes, that is correct. With the flywheel off the woodruff key should be at about 1 o clock I believe. Mark on sprocket lines up with mark on case. The key should be on the opposite side and cam indents should be at the top. If you use a strait edge from the crank to the cam everything lines up.
I have a 2008 Ranger 500 EFI, at idle it will have an intermittent knocking. at first I though it might be the clutch weights the pins were pretty worn out . The weights had lots of slop side to side replaced the pins and the same noise continued. So after watching your video i check the valve clearance and it was off some had no clearance I set the to .006. I checked the timing chain at the valve cam gear, I found the 2 dots on the gear and I rotated the engine until the 2 dots came up and the 2 silver links came around and they are one tooth off of the dots. But according to the piston position with a screw driver its TDC. I really don't want to tear it apart. Should I set the clearances and not worry? If the crank is at TDC and the cam is at TDC it shouldn't be a big deal if the chain is off one tooth? Oh yah I pulled the cover off of the fly wheel and I found on the flywheel a hashmark and 3 hashmarks.
The silver links will rotate with the chain after the next revolution the link won't be by the timing mark by the crank an cam because of the length of the chain. So if your T mark is where its supposed to be and the cam looks where its supposed to. And you see the links off the side..that is normal. Use a strait edge from center of crank to cam. It will tell you if your on without pulling the flywheel.
Mr. Titaniunman, Could you tell us how to remove the blind oil testing plug in the cylinder head of your favourite machine, the Polaris Sportsman 500 HO? Specify the tools required and the whole process, please. Do not skimp on time, although this job should not take that long to video. I have been trying to remove it but does not budge. Is it an Allen Key or a torques wrench what is needed and what size? It would be greatly appreciated if you could tell us at your earliest convenience, it is urgent for us to get on with the job.
Y0ur videos are vary helpful. I followed your instructions to set the timing but having starting tble . I have good spark and the valve lash is set too 6 thou. I think the gap from the CDI trigger coil to the magnet on the fly wheel needs to be checked but I don"t know what the gap should be ,can you tell me? Thanks.
So this is pissinh me off, I've got the "T" lined up with hole in the pull start cover, and dots on cam sprocket level with top of the head and now it wont start and it sounds like the valves are hitting now, whereas when it was "out of time" it ran but had a different noise and was blowing gas out of the carb. What am I doing wrong? I really dont want to pull the flywheel and stator plate AGAIN. WTF
@@chaseholmvik5666 if I remember correctly I had the timing sprocket one tooth off, dont rely completely on the timing marks, physically find tdc by putting something in the spark plug hole and slowly turn the crank by hand until the piston reaches tdc(ie when the object comes out of the hole the farthest) and the valves are in the correct position. Look up how to find tdc without timing marks, then line everything up. Also check to see that the timing marks on the bottom sprocket are in the correct position, I've seen the chain jump a tooth and throw the whole mess out of time
@@chaseholmvik5666 also make sure you adjust the valves after adjusting your timing, I think that may have actually been what my issue was, sorry if I'm confusing you it's been a while since I did this repair and I was thoroughly frustrated by the time I finally figured it out so I'm a little fuzzy on what it actually ended up being
@@daltong6898 no no not at all thank you for your help I just looked at my sprocket wheel and it wasn’t on the the mark like the guy said so I’m gonna put it back in time and were it’s supposed to be and it should work cause I had the same issues as you did
@@chaseholmvik5666 definitely adjust your valve lash as well after messing with the timing. The lash will tighten up over time and use, mine were very tight if I remember correctly, the exhaust valve in particular
Could be the cam gear I had mine somehow magically turn 180 out had to press off and back on ofc dat was me saving money if u have it get a new one but remember to see how many times u have to turn the crank on my outlaw 500 u have to turn it 22 rotation to have everything line up then do the chain and gear
I have a 1999 sportsman 500. Idols and can even rev up but dies after about 10 seconds. Will start right back up. Continues to do this. If I’m reving it up it won’t run as long and backfires and dies. Any thoughts?
Hey I am looking for some advice. I rebuild my 500 with a new piston and all new top end. The problem I have is I stripped one of the threads were the jug bolts to the lower case. Any ideas on fixing that or am I better off getting a different bottom end.
So does it need to be at TDC on the compression stroke when you begin chain adjustments or will it automatically be at TDC on compression stroke when the sprocket mark is aligned correctly with the mark on the case? I set the timing according to this video, and it isn’t running right. Curious if I was on the exhaust stroke when I set timing and valve clearances...
With these it doesn't matter what stroke as long as it's tdc. There is something called a dead stroke. (I believe that's what it's called) So as long as the mark is in the right spot on the flywheel and the 2 dots are at the top on the cam gear it should be fine. I would pull the flywheel and set it at the mark from case to crank. Then set the marks on the chain. I have a video on it. Check it out..
I have three sportsman 500, 1 sportsman 400, and a magnum 500, I have done countless chains on others Polaris’s and have yet to see off colored links on a used chain, must only be true for newer or new chains
@@TitaniummanGarage I wonder if the chains I removed or worked on were just cheap aftermarket ones or maybe just severely discolored to the point I couldn’t see it
Just subscribed to your channel. Videos are very helpful. I really need your professional advice. I have a polaris predator 500. All of sudden I was riding it and shift to 1st and 2nd got to 3rd and it was grabbing or jerking and wouldn't stay in gear i had to shift to 4th. Very strange 🤔 what you think it is?? Thank you
I have a question for you about a 1999 Polaris sportsman 500. It is a starter issue. I can start the four wheeler and the starter barley gets warm when it starts but while the engine is running it gets as hot as the engine almost and burned up the starter. I have burned up the old start and the new one doing this, Can it be possible that the starter bendix is not disengaging and is spinning the starter by the flywheel the speed of the engine while it’s running? Or could something be grounding out and getting it super hot? And I always make sure the starter switch is not sticking so that isn’t the problem.
Titaniumman Garage if it’s a wiring problem would it be sending constant power with the switch on but not running? So would it get hot with just the switch on?
Titaniumman Garage but if the switch is on and it is constantly sending power to the starter then it would try to crank as soon as I turned the key on and it doesn’t do that. I just took the bendix off and it still looks like new and the spring works fine. So i guess It has to be grounding out somewhere only when it’s running. I have to get a new starter so I can find out
The starter is going to get hot, it's on top of the engine . I'd say your overthinking it. I'll also add that our 425 Magnum has the ground cable attached at one of the starter bolts.
Could be a couple things. The decompression ball on the cam is sticking causing it to start hard. Yse pull rope, pull slowly till you get past the the ball. It will pull really hard then relax. Try to start it after your past that point. Or your timing is off.
@@jeramypittsley2957 Is it an aftermarket cam? I had bought one once. still sticky decompression ball. I ended up using a used cam in good shape. the problem went away. Try the pull rope trick. pull past the ball. If it starts easier..that might be the problem..if not? hmm...Id have to think about it. Can you turn it by hand with out it being stiff. turn the clutch. could be a bad battery or starter.
@@TitaniummanGarage it was an aftermarket cam. I can’t pull the rope as it does not have one. Battery and starter are brand new and I have zero problem previously. I have not had a chance to dog back into it but will here this week probably. I appreciate the advice. I currently do not have the clutch on it so it’s difficult to turn it over. I will probably pull it back out of the machine and retrace my steps a bit!
Hey brother how are you 2001 Polaris sportsman 400 new top end new head remanufactured polaremember you factured Polaris head new Cam UKM new exhaust rocker arm I noticed the Cam slides in-and-out once it's in there with the rockers on now I know it's gonna tighten up a little bit once I put the Cam tensioner tensioner in for the chain tension I should say the 3 bolts on that cover were you slide it in The old one had A perfect circular mark from the Cam compression release does a cam Move back-and-forth that much everything is new my chain is original but with very good shape the gears are very good shape... There's nothing to lock the Cam in place thank you if you can help me with this
How come those silver links time it I don't understand that because they're just links it's links it could be anywhere on that cam And what should my temperature And what should My Cam tensioner beset at could you tell me thank you
Polaris designed the chain to line up with the timing at top dead center. The tensioner tensions itself. Its spring loaded. I would recommend a new chain.
@@TitaniummanGarage so if you're at TDC the silver links don't really matter right? As long as the two dots on the gear are in line with the "centerline" of crank and cam at TDC its the same?
Watching this video and as a tech myself i was scratching my head head as to the importance of the different colored links lol As long as you time the crank to the cam you should be good.. The difference in sproket ratios will throw those links out of place all the time 😂
Any chance you’d be willing or able to help me troubleshoot an issue on a 2000 sportsman 500? Thanks so much for the videos they are excellent btw! I just replaced the cam “had an issue where it would idle but zero throttle it would die”. Old cam looked ok ish but the rocker arm was scoured badly. Replaced with a hotcams cam for a 2001 500 ho and an amazon exhaust rockeram. After replacement checking my clearance per your video it won’t start. I can get it to eventually idle but only a few seconds and it is really struggling to manage that. Trying to think where to go next. Bought with a new carb “no idea the details on it “got the old carb too” replaced air filter, spark plug and changed the oil for a hopeful break in session “didn’t happen” drained the gas and put fresh. I’m hoping I didn’t mess something up here 😓
I have had that happen and hear that so often. Did you measure the cam to see if it was in mechanical limits? One thing I forgot to mention is once you set the timing rotate the engine about 3 times (per manual ) and reset your rockers. The chain tensioner readjusts and could throw timing off. Try pulling the black wire on the cdi. I replaced a cam once..turned out it wasn't the problem. The cdi was bad.
Titaniumman Garage no I failed to measure the new cam...probably tearing the top end apart again. Carb was “new” when the guy sold it to me but didn’t know the brand. So he gave me the old one too which might be worth a rebuild kit and trying. Also need to double check my spark, fuel pump and then cdi 😓. Would the 2000 xplorer we have be a similar cdi ya think?
Titaniumman Garage so get this...I took the air filter off gave a little restriction to the intake and the carb fired up and it drove around the block but maxed out at 1/4-1/2 throttle. Any suggestions now? Lol sorry to bother you. I’m thinking check carb “or old carb” and valve clearance/timing this time
It's no bother. I like helping people. To me it sounds like a cam. Are you the one that replaced yours already? But yeah, when you closed everything off it was able to suck in more gas. You might have multiple issues.
i did this the way you showed in video and the lower mark moved forward a little when i put chain adjuster in i did it a few times same result is this normal or did (am) i missing something thanks for any help
Howdy, I am pretty late to the video but Im working on my 500 when I took off my chain to do work I wired it up and put a little paint were the timing went with new cam and rockers now only one of my intakes wants to be adjusted? Any advice/tips
@@TitaniummanGarage yeah sorry first time doing this stuff I have it loosend all the way. So it the actual arm that was hitting it. I just been trying to figure out if I had the timing off. Thst is the one thing I took the most time on I had a buddy hold it the whole time. But anyhow when I started I put a little paint were the those two marks were on the gear and had the pain there the whole time. At one point I partaly rotated the motor but I thought I went back to tdc. Sorry about that. I will respond if I figure it out
@@TitaniummanGarage okay now I figured it out. It is timed perfectly like it was. But one of my rocker pads on the new one was thicker so I threw the old ones on. My motor was in great condition besides the valve clearences and the Bendix. But now she has new piston and jug and cam 😂 I think I am going to find a nother project and through this stuff in it.
You could hot wire the fan so it stays on constantly. Change the thermostat, flush the radiator make sure the fins are clean. It could be a number of those things. Or head gasket. Is it blowing white smoke? Is the coolent level holding in the radiator?
@@williamgardner3079 Pull your oil drain plug. The coolant is going somewhere. See if its going in the case and mixing with the oil. Also..Make sure the system is bled out. there could be an air pocket causing it to over heat. If its not blowing white smoke, you head gasket should still be good.
There is a bleeder screw on the side of the waterpump. Also I had just found out if you unhook the upper radiator hose by the thermostat, fill radiator till fluid comes out both the engine and hose...that would do it. I have done it that way. It works good.
How do you know it's time to replace the chain? I have a 08 sportsman 500 ho efi. Would you also replace the guide, lever and sprocket? Would've be neat to see a short clip of that process.
Depending on how much you want to spend. If they look in good shape, I personally would use them. But ,if you wanna do it right seeing you have it apart. Yes..that's the way too go.
@@TitaniummanGarage , thank you for the response. Well, I replaced the cam made sure I had proper valve clearance I replace the head gasket with proper torque specs and sequence I lapped the valves. I put a new pickup coil in I put a new regulator in, I just put in a new CDI I tried a new starter but the starter got fried. I just can't make it run
@@TitaniummanGarage , it has to be a bad ground or something it ran when I got it. And I had to unhook the ground from by the chain tensioner it's also like a motor mount you know which one I'm talking about I'm sure I may have that one wrong
Thanks for your time and expertise. Without your videos I would have never attempted to rebuild my Ranger top end myself. I appreciate you!!!!
Thanks.
Hey man, I just installed a piston and rings on my 96 Sportsman yesterday. Your video saved me from a timing tragedy. The chain slipped down while taking the head off, so I took the flywheel and stator off and followed your instructions. Thank you very much and have a great Memorial Day Weekend. ✌
Awesome! Glad to help.
Thanks for the video man. Much more confident ripping this one apart
Awesome trick! Thank you sir. I’m fixing to build two 500 engine’s for the first time. Your videos help me alot. Many thanks
Good job on showing how to time it.
Excellent video.
This was what I needed to see. Thank you.
Very important inform for timing the 500
Think I got it, had I not been so frustrated I'd have heard you say to make sure the valves are readjusted after, did that and it seems to have cleared up, we'll see once I get it put back together, that's when the issues will ultimately show themselves lol
I hear ya man. Sometimes I have to redo things twice. I does get frustrating. The 500s can be tricky. I have learned to run it, then go back and check the valve lash again because the chain tensioner moves out after it's been ran.
@@TitaniummanGarage thanks, I did end up getting it going, thanks for the help and for the vids, I'll definitely get back in there and check the valves again now that it's got an hour or 2 on it, I ended up doing the head gasket on it too, which MAY have been when the timing went out but I suspect the previous owner reassembled incorrectly after HE did the head gasket, also incorrectly lol because I'm certain I put it back together the way it came apart. Now I'm on to doing the U joints now that I have it running
Thanks for the good vid
Another Great video,,Working on a 2004 500 h.o. is the fuel inlet on carb. on the right side? opposite of most.?
Dude your arm looks shredded.
Your videos are awesome. I just installed the cam and timing chain on my polaris 500 motor. My question is when I turn the crank around a few revolutions I can not getting the 2 dots on the cam gear to line up with the 2 silver links on the chsin as you shown on your video. I'm I missing something?
Thank you so much . your video was very helpful to me
Glad it helped
I rebuild the pull starter on my scrambler , i am having issues with it when running it just turns off , looks like my timing is completely wrong, since i am no professional, and if any advice will be appreciated
awesome knowledge and work
Awesome videos..
Do you have a video on how to set the 30 degree btdc? Or getr it in the ball park?
Does a 400 set the same way
Ya left out the tensioner install I needed that part to !
Check my engine rebuild video. It's on there.
@@TitaniummanGarage can you give me a link ?
@@TitaniummanGarage thanks really tho liked the timing video .
so if my t is gone and cant see it can i just line up the crank sprocket like you said and the cam sprocket and I should be good .im assuming if your crank sprocket is on the mark you must be top dead center with your valves and thanks for all your time tot video your work its good stuff
Yes, that is correct. With the flywheel off the woodruff key should be at about 1 o clock I believe. Mark on sprocket lines up with mark on case. The key should be on the opposite side and cam indents should be at the top. If you use a strait edge from the crank to the cam everything lines up.
I am replacing a piston rod in a 2019 450 Polaris sportsman when I put it back together do I need to get new head bolts? Please help me
The two marks on the crank and balancer when I line them up it hits and won't spin. Can you help me
Same process on the 300 Polaris engines?
I have a 2008 Ranger 500 EFI, at idle it will have an intermittent knocking. at first I though it might be the clutch weights the pins were pretty worn out . The weights had lots of slop side to side replaced the pins and the same noise continued. So after watching your video i check the valve clearance and it was off some had no clearance I set the to .006. I checked the timing chain at the valve cam gear, I found the 2 dots on the gear and I rotated the engine until the 2 dots came up and the 2 silver links came around and they are one tooth off of the dots. But according to the piston position with a screw driver its TDC. I really don't want to tear it apart. Should I set the clearances and not worry? If the crank is at TDC and the cam is at TDC it shouldn't be a big deal if the chain is off one tooth? Oh yah I pulled the cover off of the fly wheel and I found on the flywheel a hashmark and 3 hashmarks.
The silver links will rotate with the chain after the next revolution the link won't be by the timing mark by the crank an cam because of the length of the chain. So if your T mark is where its supposed to be and the cam looks where its supposed to. And you see the links off the side..that is normal. Use a strait edge from center of crank to cam. It will tell you if your on without pulling the flywheel.
How did the stator come off those 5 bolts are really tucked away
You have to remove the flywheel.
Mr. Titaniunman, Could you tell us how to remove the blind oil testing plug in the cylinder head of your favourite machine, the Polaris Sportsman 500 HO?
Specify the tools required and the whole process, please. Do not skimp on time, although this job should not take that long to video.
I have been trying to remove it but does not budge. Is it an Allen Key or a torques wrench what is needed and what size?
It would be greatly appreciated if you could tell us at your earliest convenience, it is urgent for us to get on with the job.
I haven't removed one yet. Not sure about that one.
Y0ur videos are vary helpful. I followed your instructions to set the timing but having starting tble . I have good spark and the valve lash is set too 6 thou. I think the gap from the CDI trigger coil to the magnet on the fly wheel needs to be checked but I don"t know what the gap should be ,can you tell me? Thanks.
What year? You could try pulling the black wire on cdi to see if it's your problem. If it runs good after...new cdi or issue with kill switch.
4mm.
Do you know what this engine weighs? Thank you
So this is pissinh me off, I've got the "T" lined up with hole in the pull start cover, and dots on cam sprocket level with top of the head and now it wont start and it sounds like the valves are hitting now, whereas when it was "out of time" it ran but had a different noise and was blowing gas out of the carb. What am I doing wrong? I really dont want to pull the flywheel and stator plate AGAIN. WTF
Same is happening to mine did you ever figure it out ?
@@chaseholmvik5666 if I remember correctly I had the timing sprocket one tooth off, dont rely completely on the timing marks, physically find tdc by putting something in the spark plug hole and slowly turn the crank by hand until the piston reaches tdc(ie when the object comes out of the hole the farthest) and the valves are in the correct position. Look up how to find tdc without timing marks, then line everything up. Also check to see that the timing marks on the bottom sprocket are in the correct position, I've seen the chain jump a tooth and throw the whole mess out of time
@@chaseholmvik5666 also make sure you adjust the valves after adjusting your timing, I think that may have actually been what my issue was, sorry if I'm confusing you it's been a while since I did this repair and I was thoroughly frustrated by the time I finally figured it out so I'm a little fuzzy on what it actually ended up being
@@daltong6898 no no not at all thank you for your help I just looked at my sprocket wheel and it wasn’t on the the mark like the guy said so I’m gonna put it back in time and were it’s supposed to be and it should work cause I had the same issues as you did
@@chaseholmvik5666 definitely adjust your valve lash as well after messing with the timing. The lash will tighten up over time and use, mine were very tight if I remember correctly, the exhaust valve in particular
Hey just wondering I timed it perfectly but when I turn the crank shaft the dot and chain don’t line up .I was wondering if it is normal
Could be the cam gear I had mine somehow magically turn 180 out had to press off and back on ofc dat was me saving money if u have it get a new one but remember to see how many times u have to turn the crank on my outlaw 500 u have to turn it 22 rotation to have everything line up then do the chain and gear
I have a 1999 sportsman 500. Idols and can even rev up but dies after about 10 seconds. Will start right back up. Continues to do this. If I’m reving it up it won’t run as long and backfires and dies. Any thoughts?
I would check to see if your cam lobes are worn.
@@TitaniummanGarage thanks. It ended up being a bad CDI box.
Hey I am looking for some advice. I rebuild my 500 with a new piston and all new top end. The problem I have is I stripped one of the threads were the jug bolts to the lower case. Any ideas on fixing that or am I better off getting a different bottom end.
Heli coil should do the trick.
Titaniumman Garage great thanks for getting back to me
You bet. Good luck.
So does it need to be at TDC on the compression stroke when you begin chain adjustments or will it automatically be at TDC on compression stroke when the sprocket mark is aligned correctly with the mark on the case? I set the timing according to this video, and it isn’t running right. Curious if I was on the exhaust stroke when I set timing and valve clearances...
With these it doesn't matter what stroke as long as it's tdc. There is something called a dead stroke. (I believe that's what it's called) So as long as the mark is in the right spot on the flywheel and the 2 dots are at the top on the cam gear it should be fine. I would pull the flywheel and set it at the mark from case to crank. Then set the marks on the chain. I have a video on it. Check it out..
I have three sportsman 500, 1 sportsman 400, and a magnum 500, I have done countless chains on others Polaris’s and have yet to see off colored links on a used chain, must only be true for newer or new chains
I have 10 engines sitting in my garage from 425s to 500s. All of them have a different color link for setting the timing
@@TitaniummanGarage I wonder if the chains I removed or worked on were just cheap aftermarket ones or maybe just severely discolored to the point I couldn’t see it
Just subscribed to your channel. Videos are very helpful. I really need your professional advice. I have a polaris predator 500. All of sudden I was riding it and shift to 1st and 2nd got to 3rd and it was grabbing or jerking and wouldn't stay in gear i had to shift to 4th. Very strange 🤔 what you think it is?? Thank you
Thanks for subscribing unfortunately I haven't worked on a predator yet so I'm not sure without doing some research.
Is this the same way for Polaris 500 predator? Thank you
@@TitaniummanGarage have you found anything out yet as to whether the SAME timing method will work on n a Polaris??
Bent shift forks I'd guess
I have a question for you about a 1999 Polaris sportsman 500. It is a starter issue. I can start the four wheeler and the starter barley gets warm when it starts but while the engine is running it gets as hot as the engine almost and burned up the starter. I have burned up the old start and the new one doing this, Can it be possible that the starter bendix is not disengaging and is spinning the starter by the flywheel the speed of the engine while it’s running? Or could something be grounding out and getting it super hot? And I always make sure the starter switch is not sticking so that isn’t the problem.
It sounds like a wiring issue. Grab a voltage tester. Sounds like you have constant power to the starter. It's hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Titaniumman Garage if it’s a wiring problem would it be sending constant power with the switch on but not running? So would it get hot with just the switch on?
It could be a ground wire too. Yes you are right. The only other thing is check the bending gear.
Titaniumman Garage but if the switch is on and it is constantly sending power to the starter then it would try to crank as soon as I turned the key on and it doesn’t do that. I just took the bendix off and it still looks like new and the spring works fine. So i guess It has to be grounding out somewhere only when it’s running. I have to get a new starter so I can find out
The starter is going to get hot, it's on top of the engine . I'd say your overthinking it. I'll also add that our 425 Magnum has the ground cable attached at one of the starter bolts.
I just rebuilt the top end on a 500 and turns over very hard and does not sound right. Help needed
Could be a couple things. The decompression ball on the cam is sticking causing it to start hard. Yse pull rope, pull slowly till you get past the the ball. It will pull really hard then relax. Try to start it after your past that point. Or your timing is off.
@@TitaniummanGarage thank you, it’s electric start. I will look at that. The cam is new and I’m sure I adjusted the rockers correct.
@@jeramypittsley2957 Is it an aftermarket cam? I had bought one once. still sticky decompression ball. I ended up using a used cam in good shape. the problem went away. Try the pull rope trick. pull past the ball. If it starts easier..that might be the problem..if not? hmm...Id have to think about it. Can you turn it by hand with out it being stiff. turn the clutch. could be a bad battery or starter.
@@TitaniummanGarage it was an aftermarket cam. I can’t pull the rope as it does not have one. Battery and starter are brand new and I have zero problem previously. I have not had a chance to dog back into it but will here this week probably. I appreciate the advice. I currently do not have the clutch on it so it’s difficult to turn it over. I will probably pull it back out of the machine and retrace my steps a bit!
Hey brother how are you 2001 Polaris sportsman 400 new top end new head remanufactured polaremember you factured Polaris head new Cam UKM new exhaust rocker arm I noticed the Cam slides in-and-out once it's in there with the rockers on now I know it's gonna tighten up a little bit once I put the Cam tensioner tensioner in for the chain tension I should say the 3 bolts on that cover were you slide it in The old one had A perfect circular mark from the Cam compression release does a cam Move back-and-forth that much everything is new my chain is original but with very good shape the gears are very good shape... There's nothing to lock the Cam in place thank you if you can help me with this
There is a little back and forth play on the cam.
@@TitaniummanGarage ok ty
What year 500? Snowmobile ? Atv?
ATV
How come those silver links time it I don't understand that because they're just links it's links it could be anywhere on that cam And what should my temperature And what should My Cam tensioner beset at could you tell me thank you
Polaris designed the chain to line up with the timing at top dead center. The tensioner tensions itself. Its spring loaded. I would recommend a new chain.
@@TitaniummanGarage so if you're at TDC the silver links don't really matter right? As long as the two dots on the gear are in line with the "centerline" of crank and cam at TDC its the same?
Watching this video and as a tech myself i was scratching my head head as to the importance of the different colored links lol As long as you time the crank to the cam you should be good.. The difference in sproket ratios will throw those links out of place all the time 😂
Any chance you’d be willing or able to help me troubleshoot an issue on a 2000 sportsman 500? Thanks so much for the videos they are excellent btw! I just replaced the cam “had an issue where it would idle but zero throttle it would die”. Old cam looked ok ish but the rocker arm was scoured badly. Replaced with a hotcams cam for a 2001 500 ho and an amazon exhaust rockeram. After replacement checking my clearance per your video it won’t start. I can get it to eventually idle but only a few seconds and it is really struggling to manage that. Trying to think where to go next. Bought with a new carb “no idea the details on it “got the old carb too” replaced air filter, spark plug and changed the oil for a hopeful break in session “didn’t happen” drained the gas and put fresh. I’m hoping I didn’t mess something up here 😓
I have had that happen and hear that so often. Did you measure the cam to see if it was in mechanical limits? One thing I forgot to mention is once you set the timing rotate the engine about 3 times (per manual ) and reset your rockers. The chain tensioner readjusts and could throw timing off. Try pulling the black wire on the cdi. I replaced a cam once..turned out it wasn't the problem. The cdi was bad.
Titaniumman Garage no I failed to measure the new cam...probably tearing the top end apart again. Carb was “new” when the guy sold it to me but didn’t know the brand. So he gave me the old one too which might be worth a rebuild kit and trying. Also need to double check my spark, fuel pump and then cdi 😓. Would the 2000 xplorer we have be a similar cdi ya think?
Titaniumman Garage gonna have to try timing and the rockers again after turning it 3 times
Titaniumman Garage so get this...I took the air filter off gave a little restriction to the intake and the carb fired up and it drove around the block but maxed out at 1/4-1/2 throttle. Any suggestions now? Lol sorry to bother you. I’m thinking check carb “or old carb” and valve clearance/timing this time
It's no bother. I like helping people. To me it sounds like a cam. Are you the one that replaced yours already? But yeah, when you closed everything off it was able to suck in more gas. You might have multiple issues.
i did this the way you showed in video and the lower mark moved forward a little when i put chain adjuster in i did it a few times same result is this normal or did (am) i missing something thanks for any help
That's correct. Now adjust the valve lash.
@@TitaniummanGarage ok i was nervouse it would put timing out i replace cam as well i cant find torque specs for bolts that hold rockers eithe r
You might have to check the valve lash after you run it a bit. I always adjust them. Then start it. Let it run a couple minutes then check again.
@@TitaniummanGarage ok thank you so much for the help
Howdy, I am pretty late to the video but Im working on my 500 when I took off my chain to do work I wired it up and put a little paint were the timing went with new cam and rockers now only one of my intakes wants to be adjusted? Any advice/tips
Do you mean the other does not need adjusting or it won't adjust? just keep everything at .006 and you'll be fine.
Yes I have my rockers installed and the rocker wants to hit the valve spring I cant get any feeler gauge in there
Did you turn the nut loose and turn the middle screw to adjust the rockers? I guess I'm not sure what you mean.
@@TitaniummanGarage yeah sorry first time doing this stuff I have it loosend all the way. So it the actual arm that was hitting it. I just been trying to figure out if I had the timing off. Thst is the one thing I took the most time on I had a buddy hold it the whole time. But anyhow when I started I put a little paint were the those two marks were on the gear and had the pain there the whole time. At one point I partaly rotated the motor but I thought I went back to tdc. Sorry about that. I will respond if I figure it out
@@TitaniummanGarage okay now I figured it out. It is timed perfectly like it was. But one of my rocker pads on the new one was thicker so I threw the old ones on. My motor was in great condition besides the valve clearences and the Bendix. But now she has new piston and jug and cam 😂 I think I am going to find a nother project and through this stuff in it.
Is the 400 the same way
It should be simalar
I guess it helps if I give you the year. It"s a 1999 sportsman 500.
I would try pulling the black wire on the cdi first. That can tell you a couple things. If that doesn't work I'd check the pulse coil.
The 425 looks similar
Hey how do you get a Polaris 500 ho to stop over heating
You could hot wire the fan so it stays on constantly. Change the thermostat, flush the radiator make sure the fins are clean. It could be a number of those things. Or head gasket. Is it blowing white smoke? Is the coolent level holding in the radiator?
No it is not blowing white smoke but it is not keeping a steady level of antifreeze
@@williamgardner3079 Pull your oil drain plug. The coolant is going somewhere. See if its going in the case and mixing with the oil. Also..Make sure the system is bled out. there could be an air pocket causing it to over heat. If its not blowing white smoke, you head gasket should still be good.
How do you get an air pocket out of coolant system on a Polaris 500 ho 2003
There is a bleeder screw on the side of the waterpump. Also I had just found out if you unhook the upper radiator hose by the thermostat, fill radiator till fluid comes out both the engine and hose...that would do it. I have done it that way. It works good.
How do you know it's time to replace the chain? I have a 08 sportsman 500 ho efi. Would you also replace the guide, lever and sprocket? Would've be neat to see a short clip of that process.
When the tensioner is maxed out. I would replace the chain. I just posted a video of a complete rebuild that would show everything.
@@TitaniummanGarage Assuming I'm replacing it, guides and sprocket as well?
Depending on how much you want to spend. If they look in good shape, I personally would use them. But ,if you wanna do it right seeing you have it apart. Yes..that's the way too go.
@@TitaniummanGarage Good to know, thanks for the advice and keep the videos coming!
I'm baffled! Please see if you can help me out ?
What are you baffled about?
@@TitaniummanGarage , thank you for the response. Well, I replaced the cam made sure I had proper valve clearance I replace the head gasket with proper torque specs and sequence I lapped the valves. I put a new pickup coil in I put a new regulator in, I just put in a new CDI I tried a new starter but the starter got fried. I just can't make it run
@@andrewsmith3267 Sounds like you have electrical problems. How did the new starter fry? I would check your ground wires or hot wires touching metal.
@@TitaniummanGarage , it has to be a bad ground or something it ran when I got it. And I had to unhook the ground from by the chain tensioner it's also like a motor mount you know which one I'm talking about I'm sure I may have that one wrong
It probably is something that damn stupid