Just did it This to my 1992 Yj , I’ve had this same issue for a very long time and not on single video is exactly like this one on TH-cam. Already installed and tested it out, just going to run it and test out how long it will last for. Ended up buying on 5/16 off of Amazon, and the fuel line from oreilly’s. Thanks again !
You're welcome, Glad you liked the video, and hope things go well with your YJ. I've had mine installed for many months now, and it still works good. However, if I let the vehicle sit for a few weeks, then it does take (just a little bit) longer to start, but no where near as long as it used to do.
Thanks for the video Steve. I never considered simply relocating the check valve to the outside of the tank, until now. This is a quick, easy, reliable, and inexpensive fix to a very common Jeep problem.
Oh my god thank you!!! My Jeep Patriot has been doing this for about 10 months to a year. I went and replaced every Relay in the Relay box, I replaced every single 10, 15, 20, 30, and 40 AMP fuse in the fuse box. None of that worked and then I thought to myself "It has to be the starter" but then i realized that After starting it and turning it off, it would still start almost immediately. But if I turned it off and then walked in somewhere for 20-30 minutes, it would take a long crank and sometimes multiple cranks for the engine to completely start and stay on. I just had this done at AutoZone today for $14.99 and it starts faster than my Dads 2020 Nissan Altima. 😂
Would there been an issue cutting the existing tube at the halfway mark and installing the check valve with no new tubing needed? Maybe less clamp work under the vehicle?
Great video. I have a 2.5 YJ, and I suspect a faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. First, I'll measure the fuel pressure at the throttle body check port. Then, I will add the check valve and check fuel pressure once again. Maybe I just need to increase fuel pressure by turning the adjustment screw a bit? Anyway, I'm going to install a check valve. Can't hurt...
great idea have to keep that in mind. .... I think however that you're wrong with your assumption that the last part of the hose is draining in to the tank, if that check valve is working correctly no fluid should drain unless air is able to enter at the valve. Same principal as you can suck up water in to a straw and as long as you keep a finger on the top and seal it no water will flow out at the bottom. So I think you could install that check valve in the engine compartment and get the same results. (just my thoughts and of course i could be wrong too) :)
Hi Markus, and Thanks for your comment. I think you're right, I probably could have installed it up in the engine compartment, and it would have worked fine there (maybe even better than in the back, since it would be 1/2 the distance for the pump to prime). However, I put it in this location because it was easy to access the fuel lines there (which were recently replaced), and there was an extra few inches of line that could be cut into, to add the check valve. However, up in the front, the factory fuel line is a hard plastic, with a crimped-on, stainless steel connector, which attaches to the fuel rail. So I didn't want to take a chance, and cut into that line. And since the one in the back was just made with aftermarket Gates hose (and a few hose clamps), I thought it to be the least-detrimental, should the idea not work, and I had to put it back the way it was. Anyway, thanks again for your comment, and Good Luck with your Jeep!
@@stevenofpa thanks i need some luck with mine because it does not want to start :) no fuel and no spark. not even for a few seconds when you turn the key, so i'm waiting for a new ECM to arrive.
Thanks for the video. My daughter’s 2001 XJ is experiencing the same issue. Wonder if the check valve will work in that application. I imagine it’s all same, same.
I was under the impression that these had mechanical pumps? Wouldn't the engine need to be turning to get flow? My fuel filter is in the engine bay now. Could I put this valve in there as well?
Actually the fuel line has "NOT FOR FUEL INJECTION" stamped on it. In 1991 both the 2.5 and 4.0 engines came fuel injected, so the fuel line he is using is not the correct line for his Jeep, although it IS fuel line.
Hello, Thanks for your question, and sorry for the delay reply. I got the part on eBay, they call it a "check valve", but make sure it's compatible with gasoline (not all of them are). Had to match up the diameter of the inlet / outlet port for use with the existing hose size that's already on the vehicle. But they only cost about $2 or $3 each, so purchased a few different sizes "just in case". However, it's been installed for many months, and... so far so good! Anyway, Hope this helps. And Good Luck with your Jeep!
Hi, thanks for your question, and sorry for the late reply. Most likely yes. Most of the 1990s-era Jeep models, Cherokee / Wrangler / Grand Cherokee and others with the 4.0-L I-6, had a "return fuel system" that included a check valve in the in-tank fuel sending unit. But if that check-valve goes bad like this one did, you start to loose fuel pressure at the rail as soon as the key is turned off. You generally have to buy a replacement pump assembly, which runs about $200+ and takes a few hours to replace. That would be the "proper" repair, and can be justified in many circumstances. But if the vehicle just gets part-time "play" use like this one, and you know what you're doing, this quick and easy repair can last for a long time. Hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
did this to my 96 jeep xj 4.0. is not working . still losing all my pressure within seconds of turning jeep off... get fast pressure to motor on crank, lose all pressure instantly on turn off.
Just did it This to my 1992 Yj , I’ve had this same issue for a very long time and not on single video is exactly like this one on TH-cam. Already installed and tested it out, just going to run it and test out how long it will last for. Ended up buying on 5/16 off of Amazon, and the fuel line from oreilly’s. Thanks again !
You're welcome, Glad you liked the video, and hope things go well with your YJ. I've had mine installed for many months now, and it still works good. However, if I let the vehicle sit for a few weeks, then it does take (just a little bit) longer to start, but no where near as long as it used to do.
Thanks for the video Steve. I never considered simply relocating the check valve to the outside of the tank, until now. This is a quick, easy, reliable, and inexpensive fix to a very common Jeep problem.
Oh my god thank you!!! My Jeep Patriot has been doing this for about 10 months to a year. I went and replaced every Relay in the Relay box, I replaced every single 10, 15, 20, 30, and 40 AMP fuse in the fuse box. None of that worked and then I thought to myself "It has to be the starter" but then i realized that After starting it and turning it off, it would still start almost immediately. But if I turned it off and then walked in somewhere for 20-30 minutes, it would take a long crank and sometimes multiple cranks for the engine to completely start and stay on. I just had this done at AutoZone today for $14.99 and it starts faster than my Dads 2020 Nissan Altima. 😂
Would there been an issue cutting the existing tube at the halfway mark and installing the check valve with no new tubing needed?
Maybe less clamp work under the vehicle?
I would think closer to the tank better to to eliminate drain back between the check valve and tank.
Great video. I have a 2.5 YJ, and I suspect a faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. First, I'll measure the fuel pressure at the throttle body check port. Then, I will add the check valve and check fuel pressure once again. Maybe I just need to increase fuel pressure by turning the adjustment screw a bit? Anyway, I'm going to install a check valve. Can't hurt...
great idea have to keep that in mind. .... I think however that you're wrong with your assumption that the last part of the hose is draining in to the tank, if that check valve is working correctly no fluid should drain unless air is able to enter at the valve. Same principal as you can suck up water in to a straw and as long as you keep a finger on the top and seal it no water will flow out at the bottom. So I think you could install that check valve in the engine compartment and get the same results. (just my thoughts and of course i could be wrong too) :)
Hi Markus, and Thanks for your comment. I think you're right, I probably could have installed it up in the engine compartment, and it would have worked fine there (maybe even better than in the back, since it would be 1/2 the distance for the pump to prime). However, I put it in this location because it was easy to access the fuel lines there (which were recently replaced), and there was an extra few inches of line that could be cut into, to add the check valve. However, up in the front, the factory fuel line is a hard plastic, with a crimped-on, stainless steel connector, which attaches to the fuel rail. So I didn't want to take a chance, and cut into that line. And since the one in the back was just made with aftermarket Gates hose (and a few hose clamps), I thought it to be the least-detrimental, should the idea not work, and I had to put it back the way it was. Anyway, thanks again for your comment, and Good Luck with your Jeep!
@@stevenofpa thanks i need some luck with mine because it does not want to start :) no fuel and no spark. not even for a few seconds when you turn the key, so i'm waiting for a new ECM to arrive.
@@swinada where did you find a new ecm?
Thanks for the video. My daughter’s 2001 XJ is experiencing the same issue. Wonder if the check valve will work in that application. I imagine it’s all same, same.
I was under the impression that these had mechanical pumps? Wouldn't the engine need to be turning to get flow? My fuel filter is in the engine bay now. Could I put this valve in there as well?
Exalant video thanks mine is doing this I'm getting a check valve
Love how the fuel line says “not for fuel”😂😂
😂😂😂😂
Actually the fuel line has "NOT FOR FUEL INJECTION" stamped on it. In 1991 both the 2.5 and 4.0 engines came fuel injected, so the fuel line he is using is not the correct line for his Jeep, although it IS fuel line.
Do you have a URL for the fuel check valves? Thanks
Where do you get this check valve? what's the part number?
Hmmm my XJ is 3/8" supply line guess I should have checked before I ordered 5/16" check valve
I have an '05 Jeep TJ with a slight hesitation starting in the morning. But never a problem starting thereafter. What could be causing this?
What’s the part number of the fuel check valve
My 2000 TJ 6 cyl auto won't start on first crank, always on second crank, will this fix problem?
Where can i buy this part
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Good video where can I. Get and what they call
Hello, Thanks for your question, and sorry for the delay reply. I got the part on eBay, they call it a "check valve", but make sure it's compatible with gasoline (not all of them are). Had to match up the diameter of the inlet / outlet port for use with the existing hose size that's already on the vehicle. But they only cost about $2 or $3 each, so purchased a few different sizes "just in case". However, it's been installed for many months, and... so far so good! Anyway, Hope this helps. And Good Luck with your Jeep!
That's pretty cool. Great job bud. I have a 90 carbed and nutter bypassed so this won't apply to me but ingenious none the less. Props. 😎👍
Thanks, this one took a while to figure out. It's a tricky problem!
My YJ is carb'd and nuttered...still does this.
Have a check valve on the way
I wonder if they make these for fuel injection higher pressure lines like on a 2000 XJ?
Be careful some of the new jeeps don't have a return line and the line could blow off when the fuel cools
Could this also affect / improve on heat soak issues ?
Nope. That problem is at the other end!
Thanks !@@officialWWM
How do you know which line to connect to?
Watch the video and pay attention.
Good idea
great video......tfs
That could works on a Jeep Cherokee XJ 94 ? I have same issue
Hi, thanks for your question, and sorry for the late reply. Most likely yes. Most of the 1990s-era Jeep models, Cherokee / Wrangler / Grand Cherokee and others with the 4.0-L I-6, had a "return fuel system" that included a check valve in the in-tank fuel sending unit. But if that check-valve goes bad like this one did, you start to loose fuel pressure at the rail as soon as the key is turned off. You generally have to buy a replacement pump assembly, which runs about $200+ and takes a few hours to replace. That would be the "proper" repair, and can be justified in many circumstances. But if the vehicle just gets part-time "play" use like this one, and you know what you're doing, this quick and easy repair can last for a long time. Hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
did this to my 96 jeep xj 4.0. is not working . still losing all my pressure within seconds of turning jeep off... get fast pressure to motor on crank, lose all pressure instantly on turn off.
So have you fixed the issue?
I planned to install a push button to activate the fuel pump relay manually with my left hand during start-up ...
Is it just me but he literally just had to cut the line already on it and plug it in line without wasting hose
HELP WRANGLER YJ 1991 YEARS 4.0 ENGINE PROBLEMS PCM NUMBER 56026982 NEED NEW PART NUMBER FOR NEW PCM THANKS FROM BOSNIA