Had a flickering oil pressure light and false oil level warning on my 330ci, replacing the oil level sensor fixed both issues including the low oil pressure warning.
My e90 316i acted very much like your car. Up until 215.000km it had been running with leaking valve stem seals and a broken pcv. I fixed that, but it ran like crap after, especially at idle. I changed the maf sensor, and that made the car drivable. I was about to change the upstream o2 sensor, but decided to just drive the car instead, as much as possible. These cars hate being stood outside in the Norwegian winter, and need to be driven regularly. The car is now at 217.000km, and seems to be healing itself, lol. I should clean out the intake manifold, but I'm fed up at this point, so I'll just keep on using the car till it breaks down. Love your videos, all the best from Tromsø.
I first removed the comment but now adding it again even if all of its content is not relevant for your N43 engine: If your engine had been the N42 or N46 i would recommend you to inspect the worm gear on the eccentric shaft (where the valve tronic motor operates). This gear often often having oil starvation due to a clogged spray nozzle, causing premature wear between the worm gear and the valve tronic motor pinion. Then the worm gear wears the out of tolerance causing the car to misfire. In your case I recommend to check with a smoke tester the intake system for any vacuum leaks. If tou have a small vacuum leak it will potentially not throw any codes in the ECU. A vacuum leak would also be aligned with the airmass flow sensor code you have. If the car run too lean, it will cause the airmass sensor to throw a code. This does often not being the sensor itself, but a vacuum leak post sensor in the intake system. Next I would address the fuel injectors and timing (stretched timing chain since the N43 engine is prone to chain wear and failure).
Good video, the car is testing your patience. Driving around with the gauge was cool :) I hope you get it working, you deserve that it drives properly!
Brilliant video as usual but ruined by the number of ads TH-cam are plastering on it, 30 second ones every 4 or 5 minutes not even ones you can skip after 5 seconds
You are a proof, that with right motivation and commitment you can do almost everything. I know dozen of people that will say that they can't do this type of job, because eg they don't have a car lift or proper tools. Kudos to you!
that is just amazing content bro stunning to whatch i enjoyed every second of this vid keep up the good channel bro stunning looking motor amazing work put into her hope she works out well for you bro👌👌👌👌👌👌
in your last video @29:08 , you are testing the oil pressure regulator, and it worked ! But i have replaced them many times , because of a low oil pressure warning light coming on Inside of the regulator, is a valve which scratches the outside walls , and gets stuck , so sometimes you get low oil pressure ! Replace the regulator and the oil pressure sensor , by removing the alternator you can reach them with ease and its a 30 minute job P/S Replace them with Original parts, trust me ! And that PCV valve you replaced , its probably broken already , because they always do Replace the valve cover for a new original one [ yes its 300 euro , i know ]
Oh, and running fresh fuel and injection cleaner also helps on the rough idle and bad performance. Worth a try before cleaning the injectors, especially on high mileage old cars that need to run regularly.
I hope your patience and dedication will reward you. I did have a oil pressure problem myself but on the older E46, problem was luckily fixed with a new sensor, far mor easier.
Not sure if this will help but, my e46 was doing the same thing with the oil pressure light. Turned out it was the oil level sensor which was causing the light. No codes or anything. Worth a try 😅 Great videos!
Hey, maybe check the live data of the o2 sensors as well. With this milage they can be original amd worn. I had similar problems with my audi where a broken o2 sensor made the car run roughly at idle, high consumption etc. Also check for vacum lines, they can cause bad idle.
arff too many job for no problem finally! like other comment, change oil pressure sensor and oil level sensor ( i forgot if you change it in rebuild), the gauge is a good test youve have a great idea :) you can run with this gauge in differnt condition for a moment and you see how its run, its good no problem change oil, maybe see if an other grade can be usuable on this motor, many problem on M Model by the grade... a++
I agree with zEDo1. Audi has had tons of issues with Bosch direct injectors leaking, getting plugged with carbon, etc. The oil pressure could just be a faulty pressure switch. I know on VW, oil starts to leak in to them and it ruins the sensor. I was very surprised to see an NOx sensor on a gas engine. Not sure if that’s just a European thing or what. 😂 Also a nice bit of reasoning with the exhaust leak and the misfire. I’ve several VW/Audi V6s and V8s with leaking flex joints and they would run like garbage.
Hi, ( sorry if the translation is not perfect ) If it helps here are my tips, for the idling problem, try doing a leak test with smoke to see if there is not a leak somewhere. ( Valve cover or intake...) And for the oil pressure use 5w40 or 5w50 or even 10w60 and the problem will be solved in any case for me it helped me. You're video its great keep it up ✌️
@@mifo1133 I don't think it has anything to do with it. I switched from the 5w30 which was too smooth on my N52 with 360,000km to the 5w40 which greatly improved the engine (less overheating, no more oil pressure problems) so I switched to the 5w50 and same no more problems since
@@mifo1133 I maintain several vehicles (7 and different brands, both 3 🥺 and 6 cylinders ☺️) I buy my oil on autodoc. And despite the different engines I was able to notice that the 5W30 oil is more fluid when hot (W30 hot fluidity index) which lowers friction and reduces fuel consumption to the detriment of engine protection. So I use 5W40 to protect the engine and increase the pressure when hot (W40 best protection index when hot) and on my N52 at high mileage 5W50 to increase protection. All engines which heat up a lot or which run on circuit also tend to run with 10W60 so the index has nothing to do with the fact that the oil pump is blocked the index has to do with the engine protection and the use you have with your vehicle. For my part, I prefer to protect my engine and increase fuel consumption by 0.01l/100.
As a fellow n43 owner, I suspect that most likely the misfire is caused by faulty injectors. They are VERY sensitive, basically the only injectors which are reliable are the latest index 11 and even those can be faulted out by broken ccv, broken o2 etc. if left unfixed.
about misfires please check injectors (NGK not Bosch!)and ignition coils can be worn out so i would replace them (bosch)and last thing is leaking injector - make sure they dont leak. And dont forget to delete adaptations and learn new adaptations its very important for this engine i fixed missfires by doing it 2yrs ago. (read more on bimmerprofs) i have similar problem engine misfire on idle but its so rare that i will fix it in summer :) about oil pressure may be just faulty sensor as it read 1bar and you measured 1.5-2bar, also oil solenoid whish regulate oil pressure can be blocked so it dont work properly. about flex pipe rusted out - it was same problem for me and fixed it same as you. Thank you so much for this content i would replace membrane too in summer just preventive. what glue did you use please? did you check it for leak?
If this is n53 engine they are notorious for leaking injectors which give poor startup after leaving over night, lumpy idle or not sensor. Read on bimmerprofs, they have all the same issues as the n53 engine.
Great work with the E92. At this point I would have lost all hope and probably just buy M57 engine and put it in the car :D. All 4 cylinder petrol BMW engines from 2000-now are shit apart from B48 in my opinion.
Hope you'll get it fixed! Personally I'm not a huge fan of those 4 bangers, they never seem to run smooth :/ Anyways. I really enjoy your videos. Top quality content!
I have had (maybe I still do) same issue, up until now, new chain, oil pickup cleaned from debris and new rod bearings have been fitted. I don't know if it resolved since it manifested it only in hot weather, kinda strange.
as a 235k kms n43 owner. i use to have oil light when stoping at idle right after freeway. i clean and shake a lot the oil valve beside the alternator and switch to 5w40 and no more oil pressure light. in your case, the engine is fully rebuilt that’s strange 😔 where the gauge was, is it just after the oil pump right ? that’s mean even a brand new b16 oil bump wouldn’t give more than 2bar at idling ?!
@@EMSGARAGEE61 ok ! when new, you supposed to heard the ball moving freely in the valve when you shake it hard in you hand like a weirdo ✊ i’ll dm you on insta
Did you check the injector's? those are an weak point in this engine. check if they are the same index, and check by ista if the correct injector numbers are filled in.
What about losen and tighten the crank bolt with the engine in air ? Is that possible or do i need to bolt it always on the subframe for that job? Thanks
@@bigdeal87 not quite sure, should be possible to torque it on the engine bar, if not you can torque the crank bolt after you have put the engine down again
bro just a tip dont grind welds on exhaust systems cuz welds tend to corode sooner cuz of heat,weather etc and if u grind it out there will be less time period when it falls off again :D
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Had a flickering oil pressure light and false oil level warning on my 330ci, replacing the oil level sensor fixed both issues including the low oil pressure warning.
Dobrze 😂 hello from Poland
My e90 316i acted very much like your car. Up until 215.000km it had been running with leaking valve stem seals and a broken pcv. I fixed that, but it ran like crap after, especially at idle. I changed the maf sensor, and that made the car drivable. I was about to change the upstream o2 sensor, but decided to just drive the car instead, as much as possible. These cars hate being stood outside in the Norwegian winter, and need to be driven regularly. The car is now at 217.000km, and seems to be healing itself, lol. I should clean out the intake manifold, but I'm fed up at this point, so I'll just keep on using the car till it breaks down. Love your videos, all the best from Tromsø.
I first removed the comment but now adding it again even if all of its content is not relevant for your N43 engine:
If your engine had been the N42 or N46 i would recommend you to inspect the worm gear on the eccentric shaft (where the valve tronic motor operates). This gear often often having oil starvation due to a clogged spray nozzle, causing premature wear between the worm gear and the valve tronic motor pinion. Then the worm gear wears the out of tolerance causing the car to misfire.
In your case I recommend to check with a smoke tester the intake system for any vacuum leaks. If tou have a small vacuum leak it will potentially not throw any codes in the ECU. A vacuum leak would also be aligned with the airmass flow sensor code you have. If the car run too lean, it will cause the airmass sensor to throw a code. This does often not being the sensor itself, but a vacuum leak post sensor in the intake system. Next I would address the fuel injectors and timing (stretched timing chain since the N43 engine is prone to chain wear and failure).
Good video, the car is testing your patience. Driving around with the gauge was cool :) I hope you get it working, you deserve that it drives properly!
Your videos are amazing man, constantly getting better and better.
Love from Croatia :D
Asalamaleikum from Kosoves.Kosova people love Norway.If you want car engin to last long change oil max 3500-4000Km or 3 months.
Brilliant video as usual but ruined by the number of ads TH-cam are plastering on it, 30 second ones every 4 or 5 minutes not even ones you can skip after 5 seconds
You are a proof, that with right motivation and commitment you can do almost everything. I know dozen of people that will say that they can't do this type of job, because eg they don't have a car lift or proper tools. Kudos to you!
Thanks😊
that is just amazing content bro stunning to whatch i enjoyed every second of this vid keep up the good channel bro stunning looking motor amazing work put into her hope she works out well for you bro👌👌👌👌👌👌
in your last video @29:08 , you are testing the oil pressure regulator, and it worked !
But i have replaced them many times , because of a low oil pressure warning light coming on
Inside of the regulator, is a valve which scratches the outside walls , and gets stuck , so sometimes you get low oil pressure !
Replace the regulator and the oil pressure sensor , by removing the alternator you can reach them with ease and its a 30 minute job
P/S
Replace them with Original parts, trust me !
And that PCV valve you replaced , its probably broken already , because they always do
Replace the valve cover for a new original one [ yes its 300 euro , i know ]
Oh, and running fresh fuel and injection cleaner also helps on the rough idle and bad performance. Worth a try before cleaning the injectors, especially on high mileage old cars that need to run regularly.
I hope your patience and dedication will reward you. I did have a oil pressure problem myself but on the older E46, problem was luckily fixed with a new sensor, far mor easier.
Dobrze!
Didn't know these car came with other engine beside N52,N54 and M57
Not sure if this will help but, my e46 was doing the same thing with the oil pressure light.
Turned out it was the oil level sensor which was causing the light. No codes or anything.
Worth a try 😅
Great videos!
Hey, maybe check the live data of the o2 sensors as well. With this milage they can be original amd worn. I had similar problems with my audi where a broken o2 sensor made the car run roughly at idle, high consumption etc. Also check for vacum lines, they can cause bad idle.
Great job again and as you said you’re getting close to the finish line with this car.
Looking forward to the next episode !!
your detication really shows here!
Daaamn, I hope you don't give up and eventually manage to get it running properly for an epic ending video :)
nice work but Be careful with jack stand
Quality of the videos is improving constantly, keep up the good work!
I'm sure you'll figure out the problem.
Greetings from Italy.
arff too many job for no problem finally! like other comment, change oil pressure sensor and oil level sensor ( i forgot if you change it in rebuild), the gauge is a good test youve have a great idea :) you can run with this gauge in differnt condition for a moment and you see how its run, its good no problem change oil, maybe see if an other grade can be usuable on this motor, many problem on M Model by the grade...
a++
Regarding the misfire; Are the injectors coded properly? Did you perform adaptations? Are the injectors even working properly?
Yes
Just replace oilpressure sensor and the oil pressure regulator magnet valve! That should fix it..
I agree with zEDo1. Audi has had tons of issues with Bosch direct injectors leaking, getting plugged with carbon, etc. The oil pressure could just be a faulty pressure switch. I know on VW, oil starts to leak in to them and it ruins the sensor. I was very surprised to see an NOx sensor on a gas engine. Not sure if that’s just a European thing or what. 😂 Also a nice bit of reasoning with the exhaust leak and the misfire. I’ve several VW/Audi V6s and V8s with leaking flex joints and they would run like garbage.
Hi, ( sorry if the translation is not perfect )
If it helps here are my tips, for the idling problem, try doing a leak test with smoke to see if there is not a leak somewhere. ( Valve cover or intake...)
And for the oil pressure use 5w40 or 5w50 or even 10w60 and the problem will be solved in any case for me it helped me.
You're video its great keep it up ✌️
i used 5w40 and oil pump got stuck but i dont know if it was due oil or not
@@mifo1133 I don't think it has anything to do with it. I switched from the 5w30 which was too smooth on my N52 with 360,000km to the 5w40 which greatly improved the engine (less overheating, no more oil pressure problems) so I switched to the 5w50 and same no more problems since
@@TheDarkknightdu93 for 1year i was with 5w40 too, what brand did you use? N52 is not same engine so there can be some difference
@@mifo1133 I maintain several vehicles (7 and different brands, both 3 🥺 and 6 cylinders ☺️) I buy my oil on autodoc. And despite the different engines I was able to notice that the 5W30 oil is more fluid when hot (W30 hot fluidity index) which lowers friction and reduces fuel consumption to the detriment of engine protection. So I use 5W40 to protect the engine and increase the pressure when hot (W40 best protection index when hot) and on my N52 at high mileage 5W50 to increase protection. All engines which heat up a lot or which run on circuit also tend to run with 10W60 so the index has nothing to do with the fact that the oil pump is blocked the index has to do with the engine protection and the use you have with your vehicle. For my part, I prefer to protect my engine and increase fuel consumption by 0.01l/100.
@@TheDarkknightdu93 thank you, i will consider 5w40 now :) but i dont drive long distances so . 50-100km
As a fellow n43 owner, I suspect that most likely the misfire is caused by faulty injectors. They are VERY sensitive, basically the only injectors which are reliable are the latest index 11 and even those can be faulted out by broken ccv, broken o2 etc. if left unfixed.
Index 11s are garbage. the only good ones are the 12s and 1s
😮index 12 is for the n53.
N43 is index 11.
@@maryan7926 the index 12s work on the n43, n53 and the n54. They were so bad BMW had to make 12 revisions of those shitty injectors to get it right
Index 12 wont work on n43
about misfires please check injectors (NGK not Bosch!)and ignition coils can be worn out so i would replace them (bosch)and last thing is leaking injector - make sure they dont leak. And dont forget to delete adaptations and learn new adaptations its very important for this engine i fixed missfires by doing it 2yrs ago. (read more on bimmerprofs) i have similar problem engine misfire on idle but its so rare that i will fix it in summer :)
about oil pressure may be just faulty sensor as it read 1bar and you measured 1.5-2bar, also oil solenoid whish regulate oil pressure can be blocked so it dont work properly.
about flex pipe rusted out - it was same problem for me and fixed it same as you.
Thank you so much for this content i would replace membrane too in summer just preventive. what glue did you use please? did you check it for leak?
Du är grym, du löser det där! 👏🏻💪🏻
Nice car! Keep at it!
Just to be sure: compression and leakdown test?
Great content 👍
Yes I did compression, perfect on all
If this is n53 engine they are notorious for leaking injectors which give poor startup after leaving over night, lumpy idle or not sensor. Read on bimmerprofs, they have all the same issues as the n53 engine.
Great work with the E92. At this point I would have lost all hope and probably just buy M57 engine and put it in the car :D. All 4 cylinder petrol BMW engines from 2000-now are shit apart from B48 in my opinion.
Only hard work man SIK SIK SIK
hope you go old school and restore an e30 in future
Hope you'll get it fixed! Personally I'm not a huge fan of those 4 bangers, they never seem to run smooth :/
Anyways. I really enjoy your videos. Top quality content!
If the car has over 200.000 km, upstream o2 sensors must be the problem for the missfire.
Please keep us updated if you find the culprit.
I have had (maybe I still do) same issue, up until now, new chain, oil pickup cleaned from debris and new rod bearings have been fitted. I don't know if it resolved since it manifested it only in hot weather, kinda strange.
very interesting
Great video! Can I ask what the degrees turn is after torque setting?
Stretch bolts need to be stretched after torque, and you do it by adding degrees of turn after installing with torque😊
Håller tummarna att det går bra!!!
as a 235k kms n43 owner. i use to have oil light when stoping at idle right after freeway. i clean and shake a lot the oil valve beside the alternator and switch to 5w40 and no more oil pressure light.
in your case, the engine is fully rebuilt that’s strange 😔
where the gauge was, is it just after the oil pump right ?
that’s mean even a brand new b16 oil bump wouldn’t give more than 2bar at idling ?!
Its in the oil pressure sensor spot, yes when its ar operating temp and oil is hot, but again, the hydraulic valve regulates the pressure
@@EMSGARAGEE61 ok !
when new, you supposed to heard the ball moving freely in the valve when you shake it hard in you hand like a weirdo ✊
i’ll dm you on insta
Great videos you have🤞 Where do you get all the info about torque specs?
Ista
Love your content🤌🤌
Did you check the injector's? those are an weak point in this engine. check if they are the same index, and check by ista if the correct injector numbers are filled in.
The ac compressor bracket is in the way for undoing the front oil pan bolts.. any suggestions? Thanks
I used wiggle sockets and managed to undo them without removing the ac bracket
Where did you get the membrane and new cover from ? Thanks
I just bought from a random page, just search n43 membrane
NAAH you forgot to show where you lift the car AGAIN 😭
Damn😂
do you have a code for the misfire?
Did the exhaust made strange ticking noises before replacing the flex pipe ? Mine does that uphill im not shure if it is the flex pipe.. thanks
vet ikke om det kan ha noe å gjøre med saken men når jeg hadde 320en så fikk jeg også missfire pga nox sensoren da
A bit click-baity title there, but still a good watch. Lycka till!
So did you don’t have to lose the steering column? What about coolant pipes on the front axle? Thanks
I left all og them on, possible to do
Wow ok that’s genius! Tought that would not be possible! Thanks
@@bigdeal87 but I lifted the engine as mutch as I could on the engine bar
What about losen and tighten the crank bolt with the engine in air ? Is that possible or do i need to bolt it always on the subframe for that job? Thanks
@@bigdeal87 not quite sure, should be possible to torque it on the engine bar, if not you can torque the crank bolt after you have put the engine down again
so what was the problem?
Did you work it out?
@@fipfip3331 long story, working in it currently, video on it soon😂
@@EMSGARAGEE61 can’t wait to see it ,in the middle of a n46 rebuild myself hope I don’t encounter this ahah.
If you dont want it i can buy it for cheap :) I can come pick it up tomorrow as is for the right price ;)
Transfer everything from 335i in there ;)
hey
Call Sreten
He will tell you to put this engine in the bin 😂
Brand new everything!
put that car under press and buy normal car, like e39 and e46
bro just a tip dont grind welds on exhaust systems cuz welds tend to corode sooner cuz of heat,weather etc and if u grind it out there will be less time period when it falls off again :D
Thanks, didn’t think about that😃