Sorry for the audio delay in this video...it wasn't doing that on the Live Feed, as far as I am aware. Yet, when the video finished processing through TH-cam and saved here for replays, it came across slightly off. I don't have control over it so I can't fix it without taking the video down and resyncing the audio in Premiere and re-uploading. But it isn't worth it that much to lose all the interactions and stats so far. If you would prefer that I go for it even if it means a new video, let me know here in reply. Thanks all! -Aaron
Great video. I'm pretty new to Milky Way Photog. I feel you on the entire night being out of focus. I just had a night where I left a polarizing filter on all night after shooting during the day. :-( So frustrating! But, a great reason to go back out to the location.
Thank you, Grahame! I am glad that a lengthy discussion on the histogram for Milky Way photography can be so well received! :D You would think it would be some pretty dry material but I am excited by the responses I am getting and the participants in the live webinar seemed to enjoy it too! Thanks for watching again, Grahame! -Aaron
Thanks for the video Aaron. I picked up a couple very good tips from the video! The low level lighting is amazingly bright. Some of the images it seemed too bright to me. Sorry I missed the live stream. How do you deal with noise? Do you not care or what methods do you use for noise reduction in the Milky Way without losing too much detail?
In a way...yes, I don't really care about the noise in the sky. It just isn't seen by most. But I do try to avoid being too noisy and a short shutter at 13 seconds doesn't cause too much noise if at all and the only noise I get are in the darkest parts of the image. So if I DO notice too much noise on my foreground I get around it with stacking, with panorama or currently taking advantage of the still working Nik Collection and use DFine. As for the low level lighting, you are correct! Some of those are definitely brighter than I would have liked and sometimes in the moment your light is SO dark to you and the LCD screen doesn't tell the whole story enough that you can't tell it is so bright. And sometimes you know it is bright but we can't get good falloff lighting since we are so close to the subject. Ideally we pull the light further back to soften it. We keep running into situations where further means downhill and messes up our chance of hitting the subject, or there is a cliff blocking us from going further. Whether by being a drop-off or a WALL! It takes some trial and error to get it right and compromising to get it to work. But when you see it work awesomely like in the Natural Bridges National Monument image, it is perfect! Love that image. My frontrunner for my best shot of 2017 I think...Thanks as always, Nevada and I am stoked you got some good tips from the video despite all your own experience! :D -Aaron
Sweet thanks, Kirk! One of the many advantages with the Tracker will be the lower ISO. Think you could get away with even less on a longer exposure? -Aaron
I purchased your Eric Benedetti’s $99 astrophotog course using the link on your Photog Adventures YT video page, but now cannot find or access the course. I only received a “thank you” email from Click Funnels and a receipt from Paypal- neither have any links to the training. I tried to find an email address or support area on your and Eric Benedetti’s site to no avail either, which is why I am using the comment area. I received no other related email either (i.e. one with links). I have tried logging in via your site and Clickfunnels, but that does not work either. How do I access the training and materials I paid for?
Thanks, Rexx! 😃 Definitely have to. It's the easiest way to make the decision on your settings. Choose a shutter with star trails you can live with -> then adjust ISO until you have the histogram that is strong. Works great for bringing the most out of your night sky! Thanks for watching again, Rexx! -Aaron
Aaron, hey man great channel you have. I really like the processing ones! A question for you, my wife keeps shooting on auto white balance and I almost all of her pics are way pink, purple tinted, globally thru out the Sky section of her milkyway shots. I looked at theEXIF data and noticed that somehow anywhere from 25-35 plus points of Magenta Tint appear in Lightroom when I look at the Whitebalance and that slider under it that shows the Tint. I have played around trying to edit it out back to neutral but it seems something has been “burned” into the files from the camera. It’s a Sony A7R3. Any thoughts on this? Oh everything else is on Manual, don’t ask my why I can’t sense into her.... That is almost futile UNLESS someone else to “oh don’t do this, do that” and then she will listen and follow their directions.....
Use a Nisi natural night filter for light pollution. It almost eliminates all of it. It filters out certain wave lengths. It's worth every penny. It comes in a square size for a filter holder, and I think they sell screw on ones too. Cheers!
I have a square one, works great for cityscapes, have not tried it for Astro yet as it won't mount on my 14mm, I just bought the 16-35 G Master so will try it with that lens on the next dark night.
The Pure Night Filter from Ian Norman of LonelySpeck.com is an expensive temptation too. I will have to try the Nisi filter when I get my filter holder for my Tamron. Thanks for the recommendation, Matthew! 😃 -Aaron
+Charles McElveen hey Charles! Sorry for the delay in replying. Been out at the sand dunes and then made it back late last night and rushed out the Fall Colors 2017 video before heading back out here. But I have some network here at dinner in Delta so I can finally respond! 😄 So I have only had experience with Wacom tablets. Love the Intuos. All versions. Yes comparing them now there are ones that don’t nearly compete with each other, but as I have used them off and on in my career in the game industry they all do fantastic and for dodging and burning. The process is simple and having the painting motion with a pen in your hand is so much better than using a mouse for it. But my favorite is the Cintiq because it is a draw ON screen option not a tablet while looking up at a monitor. I say grab one in your price range. I know that Jeff Harmon of Improve Photography has written up a review of some cheaper monoprice or some brand similar to compare to Wacom. But Wacom owns the industry and is fantastic! 😃 -Aaron
Hi Guys, Just made a shot of the road in the skies. I am trying to get the reflection of the Milky Way on the water surface but.... I get the stars reflected but the gas clouds are still very faint. Any ideas? It was quite dark here and a bit of light pollution on my left.
Hey Richard! So reflections are nowhere near as bright as we would like them to be. They are quite a bit darker than the sky. The best thing to do when you are capturing the reflection is to bring your ISO up to amplify the light that shows in the water. Depending on chop in the water from wind too you can lose a lot of detail. The BEST reflection I ever got was in Salt Flats when conditions were perfect! Other than that, a reflection in the water is typically only the brightest of the stars showing up along with color that hints at the details from the Milky Way core. So don’t be too hard on yourself. There isn’t much you can do with all the light loss in a water reflection other than ramp your ISO up to amplify what is there. Good luck trying it again! I hope the wind is completely still for you! 😃 -Aaron
@@PhotogAdventures Hi Aaron, I got a shot where the reflection was visible. Sadly i was a bit late at the scene and just had 10 minutes before the reflection would be going into the reflected trees....
Way late on this but I hope you see this. I have a clip in light pollution filter in my D750 which prevents me from seeing any stars through live view. The only way around this has been to shoot an exposure and then view it in replay and then make adjustments from there. Any ideas for this?
Hey Sean! No worries, I see every comment that comes through. :D I don't think there would be any solution for that other than to get your focus first and THEN clip it on. You will want to get your focus and exposure down and then put on the light pollution filter to help with the light pollution issues. I would imagine that there is no other way. Even changing your settings to be extra sensitive to light, your light pollution filter is going to cut out that light. When I get a Pure Night filter from Ian Norman over at Lonely Speck or borrow my buddy Drew's Pure Night Filter, I would only put it on once I have focus and exposure set. Hope that isn't too discouraging since I can't think of any other way to work around it. Thanks for watching though! Really glad you asked still, it is never too late! :D -Aaron
Photog Adventures No that's helpful. Another thing I cannot do is live view with that clip in filter. Kind of a bummer because it helps a lot here in Baton Rouge. I'm just gonna have to go to my dark site at the camp and shoot out there. Anyway I think the swamp with all the Cypress Trees and moss hanging down would make a unique and pretty shot with the Milky Way behind it. I have not seen to many of those. Thanks for responding. Great videos
The clip in filter prevents you from running live view? Dang, you should get rid of that filter. Honestly, the change is not worth it. Go to - like you said - go to darker sky locations and fix any light pollution you hate in post. That filter seems to brick your camera in a way that wouldn't be worth it to me. :D Now your idea of the Cypress Trees and moss hanging down man! That WOULD be an awesome Milky Way shot! I wonder why we haven't! I hope the Milky Way and an awesome tree like that match up next year! I really really want to see that! Hope you will keep us informed when you do it and show us the final image! :D -Aaron
Photog Adventures I sure will. I'm primarily a deep space Astro photographer using Cooled CCD cameras but my roots are in terrestrial imaging here on planet earth!! I bought the filter when I was using DSLR and connecting it to a telescope. I'm going to pull it out for the Milky Way shots. The type of shots your are doing are tugging at me because they are just beautiful and captivating. I recently bought a Rhino Slider System and have added an Ioptron Sky Guider with a Williams Optics GT71 APO scope for wide field Astrophotography and Time Lapse. What I have been doing is tinkering with it while my imaging rig is shooting Nebulas, but after watching yours and Lonely Specks Videos I'm ready to get serious and spend the time it needs to be fruitful. The swamp is beautiful and I really want to create a body of work to share it with yall. I'll keep you posted and keep asking questions. Thanks again for your time to help us. Sean www.redstickastro.com
Man, getting a cooled CCD to connect to my Celestron Nexstar 6SE would be tremendous. Get my Jupiter and Saturn shots. Got to wait a few months for Jupiter again and Saturn is a bit low in the sky for a clear shot. But next year I am hoping my play budget has some space for a CCD. I like that I CAN use my DSLR on my Telescope but getting a CCD and controlling the scope from a laptop is the dream. Especially when I invest some serious money on a larger scope. :) The never ending aperture creep of being a Telescope guy! haha Sounds like you have awesome plans. Can't wait to see what you come back with and to check out your site. You are always welcome for the help! Each night I look at Orion and can't wait to be out on a clear night in a dark site and wait for Orion to be at Zenith so I can create my own stacked image of barnards loop, the Orion nebula and all the color that is around that constellation. What a fantastic part of the night sky! Hoping my stacked images of the Rho Ophiucci turned out from earlier this year. I have several options to work with. Hope they turn out! :D -Aaron
Great video thanks. I was just wondering, I have just bought a Cannon EOS200 D and it currently has the kit lens on it, I have taken a few night shots of the stars, but I don't thinK it's picking up the clarity as it should, what lens would you recommend to use with my camera and would my camera realise that the lens can go up to a greater ISO and F stop than what it displays on my screen with the kit lens on it. Here are a couple of night shots I took last night, these are my first ever shots and my first ever DSLR with no knowledge of using one at all. instagram.com/ryanraymondphotography/?hl=en I would love to be able to take better night shots, will my camera work ok to get similar shots to what you were showing off in the video if I purchased a better lens specially for night shots? Many thanks Ryan
Sorry for the audio delay in this video...it wasn't doing that on the Live Feed, as far as I am aware. Yet, when the video finished processing through TH-cam and saved here for replays, it came across slightly off. I don't have control over it so I can't fix it without taking the video down and resyncing the audio in Premiere and re-uploading. But it isn't worth it that much to lose all the interactions and stats so far. If you would prefer that I go for it even if it means a new video, let me know here in reply. Thanks all! -Aaron
This was EXCELLENT! Full of content and straight to a TON of points I needed to understand. No filler or corny bs just total info. Thanks !
Great video. I'm pretty new to Milky Way Photog. I feel you on the entire night being out of focus. I just had a night where I left a polarizing filter on all night after shooting during the day. :-( So frustrating! But, a great reason to go back out to the location.
Epic Tutorial Aaron! Thanks for the detailed discussion on the histogram - the midpoint is a Gem (Y) :)
Thank you, Grahame! I am glad that a lengthy discussion on the histogram for Milky Way photography can be so well received! :D You would think it would be some pretty dry material but I am excited by the responses I am getting and the participants in the live webinar seemed to enjoy it too! Thanks for watching again, Grahame! -Aaron
Thanks for the video Aaron. I picked up a couple very good tips from the video! The low level lighting is amazingly bright. Some of the images it seemed too bright to me. Sorry I missed the live stream. How do you deal with noise? Do you not care or what methods do you use for noise reduction in the Milky Way without losing too much detail?
In a way...yes, I don't really care about the noise in the sky. It just isn't seen by most. But I do try to avoid being too noisy and a short shutter at 13 seconds doesn't cause too much noise if at all and the only noise I get are in the darkest parts of the image. So if I DO notice too much noise on my foreground I get around it with stacking, with panorama or currently taking advantage of the still working Nik Collection and use DFine. As for the low level lighting, you are correct! Some of those are definitely brighter than I would have liked and sometimes in the moment your light is SO dark to you and the LCD screen doesn't tell the whole story enough that you can't tell it is so bright. And sometimes you know it is bright but we can't get good falloff lighting since we are so close to the subject. Ideally we pull the light further back to soften it. We keep running into situations where further means downhill and messes up our chance of hitting the subject, or there is a cliff blocking us from going further. Whether by being a drop-off or a WALL! It takes some trial and error to get it right and compromising to get it to work. But when you see it work awesomely like in the Natural Bridges National Monument image, it is perfect! Love that image. My frontrunner for my best shot of 2017 I think...Thanks as always, Nevada and I am stoked you got some good tips from the video despite all your own experience! :D -Aaron
Per Aaron's question at 42:45, for Crater Lake, I was using 30 seconds at f/2 and 3200 ISO on the Sony a7R.
Sweet thanks, Kirk! One of the many advantages with the Tracker will be the lower ISO. Think you could get away with even less on a longer exposure? -Aaron
I guess you could. I'll have to experiment.
Yeah, please do and let us know! :D -Aaron
I purchased your Eric Benedetti’s $99 astrophotog course using the link on your Photog Adventures YT video page, but now cannot find or access the course. I only received a “thank you” email from Click Funnels and a receipt from Paypal- neither have any links to the training. I tried to find an email address or support area on your and Eric Benedetti’s site to no avail either, which is why I am using the comment area. I received no other related email either (i.e. one with links). I have tried logging in via your site and Clickfunnels, but that does not work either. How do I access the training and materials I paid for?
Awesome show Aaron, i will make the histogram my friend! ;)
Thanks, Rexx! 😃 Definitely have to. It's the easiest way to make the decision on your settings. Choose a shutter with star trails you can live with -> then adjust ISO until you have the histogram that is strong. Works great for bringing the most out of your night sky! Thanks for watching again, Rexx! -Aaron
Aaron, hey man great channel you have. I really like the processing ones! A question for you, my wife keeps shooting on auto white balance and I almost all of her pics are way pink, purple tinted, globally thru out the Sky section of her milkyway shots. I looked at theEXIF data and noticed that somehow anywhere from 25-35 plus points of Magenta Tint appear in Lightroom when I look at the Whitebalance and that slider under it that shows the Tint. I have played around trying to edit it out back to neutral but it seems something has been “burned” into the files from the camera. It’s a Sony A7R3. Any thoughts on this? Oh everything else is on Manual, don’t ask my why I can’t sense into her.... That is almost futile UNLESS someone else to “oh don’t do this, do that” and then she will listen and follow their directions.....
Use a Nisi natural night filter for light pollution. It almost eliminates all of it. It filters out certain wave lengths. It's worth every penny. It comes in a square size for a filter holder, and I think they sell screw on ones too.
Cheers!
I have a square one, works great for cityscapes, have not tried it for Astro yet as it won't mount on my 14mm, I just bought the 16-35 G Master so will try it with that lens on the next dark night.
The Pure Night Filter from Ian Norman of LonelySpeck.com is an expensive temptation too. I will have to try the Nisi filter when I get my filter holder for my Tamron. Thanks for the recommendation, Matthew! 😃 -Aaron
Right on, Rexx. Let us know how it goes when you try it out! 😃 -Aaron
Aaron, you mentioned using a tablet/pen for dodge/burn. I can’t remember which webinar. Can you recommend one for Lightroom? Thanks! Charlie.
+Charles McElveen hey Charles! Sorry for the delay in replying. Been out at the sand dunes and then made it back late last night and rushed out the Fall Colors 2017 video before heading back out here. But I have some network here at dinner in Delta so I can finally respond! 😄 So I have only had experience with Wacom tablets. Love the Intuos. All versions. Yes comparing them now there are ones that don’t nearly compete with each other, but as I have used them off and on in my career in the game industry they all do fantastic and for dodging and burning. The process is simple and having the painting motion with a pen in your hand is so much better than using a mouse for it. But my favorite is the Cintiq because it is a draw ON screen option not a tablet while looking up at a monitor. I say grab one in your price range. I know that Jeff Harmon of Improve Photography has written up a review of some cheaper monoprice or some brand similar to compare to Wacom. But Wacom owns the industry and is fantastic! 😃 -Aaron
Would You use a histogram more exposed to the Right if doing Time Lapse? Or still keep it under the mid tone?
Hi Guys,
Just made a shot of the road in the skies. I am trying to get the reflection of the Milky Way on the water surface but....
I get the stars reflected but the gas clouds are still very faint. Any ideas? It was quite dark here and a bit of light pollution on my left.
Hey Richard! So reflections are nowhere near as bright as we would like them to be. They are quite a bit darker than the sky. The best thing to do when you are capturing the reflection is to bring your ISO up to amplify the light that shows in the water. Depending on chop in the water from wind too you can lose a lot of detail. The BEST reflection I ever got was in Salt Flats when conditions were perfect! Other than that, a reflection in the water is typically only the brightest of the stars showing up along with color that hints at the details from the Milky Way core. So don’t be too hard on yourself. There isn’t much you can do with all the light loss in a water reflection other than ramp your ISO up to amplify what is there. Good luck trying it again! I hope the wind is completely still for you! 😃 -Aaron
@@PhotogAdventures Thanks for the reply. I had a few stars and a hint of colour so then I am pleased with the outcome.
@@PhotogAdventures Hi Aaron,
I got a shot where the reflection was visible. Sadly i was a bit late at the scene and just had 10 minutes before the reflection would be going into the reflected trees....
Way late on this but I hope you see this. I have a clip in light pollution filter in my D750 which prevents me from seeing any stars through live view. The only way around this has been to shoot an exposure and then view it in replay and then make adjustments from there. Any ideas for this?
Hey Sean! No worries, I see every comment that comes through. :D I don't think there would be any solution for that other than to get your focus first and THEN clip it on. You will want to get your focus and exposure down and then put on the light pollution filter to help with the light pollution issues. I would imagine that there is no other way. Even changing your settings to be extra sensitive to light, your light pollution filter is going to cut out that light. When I get a Pure Night filter from Ian Norman over at Lonely Speck or borrow my buddy Drew's Pure Night Filter, I would only put it on once I have focus and exposure set. Hope that isn't too discouraging since I can't think of any other way to work around it. Thanks for watching though! Really glad you asked still, it is never too late! :D -Aaron
Photog Adventures
No that's helpful. Another thing I cannot do is live view with that clip in filter. Kind of a bummer because it helps a lot here in Baton Rouge. I'm just gonna have to go to my dark site at the camp and shoot out there. Anyway I think the swamp with all the Cypress Trees and moss hanging down would make a unique and pretty shot with the Milky Way behind it. I have not seen to many of those.
Thanks for responding. Great videos
The clip in filter prevents you from running live view? Dang, you should get rid of that filter. Honestly, the change is not worth it. Go to - like you said - go to darker sky locations and fix any light pollution you hate in post. That filter seems to brick your camera in a way that wouldn't be worth it to me. :D Now your idea of the Cypress Trees and moss hanging down man! That WOULD be an awesome Milky Way shot! I wonder why we haven't! I hope the Milky Way and an awesome tree like that match up next year! I really really want to see that! Hope you will keep us informed when you do it and show us the final image! :D -Aaron
Photog Adventures
I sure will. I'm primarily a deep space Astro photographer using Cooled CCD cameras but my roots are in terrestrial imaging here on planet earth!! I bought the filter when I was using DSLR and connecting it to a telescope. I'm going to pull it out for the Milky Way shots. The type of shots your are doing are tugging at me because they are just beautiful and captivating. I recently bought a Rhino Slider System and have added an Ioptron Sky Guider with a Williams Optics GT71 APO scope for wide field Astrophotography and Time Lapse. What I have been doing is tinkering with it while my imaging rig is shooting Nebulas, but after watching yours and Lonely Specks Videos I'm ready to get serious and spend the time it needs to be fruitful. The swamp is beautiful and I really want to create a body of work to share it with yall. I'll keep you posted and keep asking questions. Thanks again for your time to help us.
Sean
www.redstickastro.com
Man, getting a cooled CCD to connect to my Celestron Nexstar 6SE would be tremendous. Get my Jupiter and Saturn shots. Got to wait a few months for Jupiter again and Saturn is a bit low in the sky for a clear shot. But next year I am hoping my play budget has some space for a CCD. I like that I CAN use my DSLR on my Telescope but getting a CCD and controlling the scope from a laptop is the dream. Especially when I invest some serious money on a larger scope. :) The never ending aperture creep of being a Telescope guy! haha Sounds like you have awesome plans. Can't wait to see what you come back with and to check out your site. You are always welcome for the help! Each night I look at Orion and can't wait to be out on a clear night in a dark site and wait for Orion to be at Zenith so I can create my own stacked image of barnards loop, the Orion nebula and all the color that is around that constellation. What a fantastic part of the night sky! Hoping my stacked images of the Rho Ophiucci turned out from earlier this year. I have several options to work with. Hope they turn out! :D -Aaron
playback speed 1.75x works for my attention.
otherwise ,soooo sleepy
Great video thanks. I was just wondering, I have just bought a Cannon EOS200 D and it currently has the kit lens on it, I have taken a few night shots of the stars, but I don't thinK it's picking up the clarity as it should, what lens would you recommend to use with my camera and would my camera realise that the lens can go up to a greater ISO and F stop than what it displays on my screen with the kit lens on it. Here are a couple of night shots I took last night, these are my first ever shots and my first ever DSLR with no knowledge of using one at all. instagram.com/ryanraymondphotography/?hl=en
I would love to be able to take better night shots, will my camera work ok to get similar shots to what you were showing off in the video if I purchased a better lens specially for night shots?
Many thanks
Ryan