I’d like to add to the flex in the deck specifically under the feet. There are foam blocks already installed from the factory that sort of work themselves out of position. You can adhere them with some sort of adhesive, or all I do is reposition them every once in awhile so that it doesn’t flex much at all. I’m 170lbs and I don’t see it failing anytime soon. I’ll touch on one other issue that I had with this kayak and how I mitigated it. The length and weight of this thing is no joke, especially when you start building it out. What I did was I found a used jet ski trailer on marketplace for cheap and customized it to fit this kayak. I fish alone 95% of the time, and I’m OCD about dragging kayaks on any surface. Trailer is pretty much the way to go if you’re solo. Loving the 133X content!!
Thanks for the input! I gotta admit I did drag this kayak on the surface a few times, only did it because of the back skid plates would take the weight and not the plastic itself. But DEFINITELY not a permanent way to move the boat. Only when I forgot the wheels.
@@anthonyburdine2873 The weight capacity on the 133X is 550 lbs. One thing for sure, is this kayak is SUPER stable but heavy. Another option (if weight is a factor) is a Colorado Pontoon. You can find a really nice setups for a lower price than the Ascend 133X.
Love you build. I have the same kayak and have been doing similar upgrades. I have a bow mount trolling motor deing delivered, with it being a bow mou t and the transducer being at the bow, is there any interference from the prop with imaging on your monitor?
Very well said. I'm a Bonafide guy but I can see some pros with this one. Just subbed to help push you one more closer to 1000...you're gettin close. Hang in there.
lol 17:26 I had to trade in my truck for a Subaru crosstrek, and i'm making it work solo! For anyone reading this with a car and not sure how hard it is, its really not. Just run the bow up perpendicular between the front and rear doors on either side, then lift the stern up all the way side ways and walk it over/rotate it till its on the roof rack. There are several videos on this technique on youtube. The hardest part, and its really not even that hard, is the initial bow pick up and rotating it over to the side of the car.
Hey thanks for the video, lots of helpful information. I'm trying to decide between this and the pelican catch power 500 for my first kayak... I'll be on a budget so my trolling motor will have to be on a budget... any motor and kayak recommendations? I'd prefer a bow mount if I decided on the 133x and since it's price is lower than may be possible... I'm all ears I've been threading this needle for a while.
If your budget is lower I’d suggest a kayak that is made for a stern motor. Bow motors aren’t cheap in general compared to stern and I can over that Pelican power is more designed for a stern. So that would be my recommendation but depends on what you really want.
Been looking at these and have concerns with the amount of hull flex that seems to be evident with the trolling motor just bolted to the deck. Seems as is there needs to be some serious bracing on both the top side and some braces run across the underside to distribute the motors weight both stored and deployed as well as the power or torque when the motor goes from off to powered up and pulling on the water.. I like the boat a lot and seems like the top side could be easily braced with like a "plastic" cutting board material and the underside about 3 pieces of aluminum channel in widths close to the width of the deck where they run across would pretty much eliminate those concerns. The more front oriented channel under the deck and the raised area where the motor mount plate sits on washers could be used to allow that section to make contact with the aluminum channel under the deck and take advantage of the force still being distributed across a wider area and the thin plastic deck of the boat being sandwiched between the upper and lower bracing instead of all the force being applied in such a small concentrated area of thin plastic deck of the boat alone..
I haven’t had an issue with no extra support. Mind you I take my motor off when im not on the water which helps with long term strain. But yes, cutting board seems to be the most popular option. Thanks for the comment!
@@YakSquad like I said in the video if someone is adamant on using spray foam used closed cell but we still don’t recommend it because of how permanent it is.
I don’t transport with the battery installed so I don’t have anything currently securing it. I never had this battery fully die on me yet but I would imagine it could manage 2-3 hours of constant run time. I already upgraded this battery to a lithium ion
Yes it has crossed our mind. The fear we have with it though is once it’s in there, it’s never coming out. Considering using foam even closed cell is so frowned upon in the kayaking world, even if closed cell is safer, in our eyes it just isn’t worth taking the risk. Especially when the warping rarely causes anything serious if you take care of the boat. I have yet to see a problem caused by the warping with this kayak outside of it looking visually unappealing. So it just isn’t worth the risk.
Did you have any issues with overheating with the factory 10-gauge wiring for the trolling motor? I have heard that going to the 8-gauge is a must-have upgrade.
I am concerned with weight capacity on this boat. With upgrades, how much weight capacity is left for the angler? Also, it seems that Ascend borrows heavily from FeelFree. FeelFree uses foam covered plexiglass for the feet so that you have stable platform to stand on. Would this be an option?
Weight capacity is 550 lbs. That is one of the highest if not the highest weight capacity for kayaks on the market right now. There is plenty left over even with my weight and all my gear. I weigh about 150-175. All my gear is MAYBE another 100, but that’s pushing it maybe more like 50-75 pounds. So I have no concerns. I don’t know if feelfrees design is an option but I plan on using yoga blocks at a later date, havent had an issue without them though. Honest advice, If weight capacity is a concern even at that number, I’d suggest going with a smaller boat and not a kayak
So I used to be a big guy. I was well over 300lbs but a good case of Kidney disease took care of my weight. I am just shy of 6' 2" and I'm 220lbs. Initially I was looking at the Ascend 133, then I got sick and lost about 100lbs. I still like the Ascend but I kind of have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. One, is how does the craft handle a very heavy chop on the water? It looks like a fairly flat bottom which is not promising? I just need to know how you feel about having it in choppy water. I have always been a rear motor guy, could you be more specific about why bow mount motors are better for you? Finally is it legal in kayak competitions? I'm assuming so? Both of you are answering questions very well! Thank you!!
Hello. So yes, it is a catamaran style hull and it is extremely stable even through heavier waves. Haven’t had a huge issue the only time where I actually feel it is when I am driving the boat on the side of the waves and not head on. I absolutely love the front motor. No awkwardly reaching behind the kayak whenever I need to make tiny adjustments, very fast I can get about 3.75 mph with myself, all my gear, and a 125lb kayak. Easy turning so there’s no struggling with it in choppy weather and wind. And just a push of a button it retracts and fits nicely in the hull. Not to mention you can always add spot lock to it. I highly recommend it over a rear one, so much easier and way less hassle. Yes they should be legal. As long as there isn’t a gas motor behind it (don’t recommend), electric motors should be good in like 99% of tournaments. Hope that helps.
@@UntamedOutdoorsmen I will never see Competition because they don't have more than one large Smallmouth Lake in British Columbia. I use one of those dual inflatable pontoon boats but the more I see kayaks, the more I want to switch. Thank you for taking the time to answer me, it was very kind!
I am strongly considering this boat, I just seen some reviews of people getting massive stress cracks around where your feet go and also how it’s not actually plug and play and that you have to do some modifications for almost all accessories that come with it. Would you say that’s true?
I haven’t had any cracking problems like other reviews have mentioned. Depending on the mods you do then sure it won’t be all plug and play. But if you keep things simple and don’t over modify the boat like some do it will be very easy. Especially if you use the proprietary YakPower accessories they really are that simple. Things that aren’t made by YakPower so fish finders for example have to be set up their normal way then plug into the YakPower port, but it isn’t any more difficult than normal.
I’m sold I’m off to bass pro shop I’m so serious ima get a kayak trailer and this is the one! I wanted a hobie but if I buy the 133x and upgrade it I will be under the price of the hobie I wanted
Yeah I’ve got plenty of videos from last year on the water showing how this boat performs and plenty more in the coming weeks. Handles rough water very well for a kayak, probably some of the best kayak stability on the market right now.
Hmm i wonder if say a thin sheet of aluminum or stainless steel some epoxy and a few screws in those flex spots would help overall 🤔 im considering buying one
Expanding foum duse not hold water I put some in pvc pipe let it dry then filled it with water it never absorbed it not even after a month. I meshed the water it was the same after a month.
Both 12v. Small battery is a 24ah lithium ion for all the accessories. Big battery is now a 100ah lithium ion for the trolling motor. Used to be a group 27 deep cycle but it was just too heavy. Hope that helps.
Just like how most of the plastic boats and kayaks go. Once you put a trolling motor on in my state it needs to be registered. The owners manual comes with the MSO but you can get it online also. Then I just filled out forms on my states website, went to the office and it was all set.
Don’t have an answer for you on that one. Maybe someone on ebay sells replacements? Or just get the dimensions of the old skid plate and take some ABS plastic and cut it to size?
I'm 6 5 and weigh in at 390 I love fishing and am looking to make some changes to diet and exercise patterns to drop this weight do you think this would hold me I know it says 550lbs but my concern is all my weight concentrated in one spot this won't be a issue forever as I'm planning on dropping weight but I'm concerned starting out
I can't speak about this particular kayak, but as long as you have a high weight capacity kayak you'll be fine. I'm 6'4" and weigh 380. I have been fishing out of the same kayak for 8 years now. I just wouldn't recommend standing up. Lol
Actually if you go with at least 100 amp lipo4 battery it performs and has the same output as having 2 100 amp hour wet cell batteries. Wet cell batteries you can only safely discharge down to 50% of capacity before you start damaging the batteries while lipo4's you can discharge to 100%. Not to mention 2 wet cell 100 amp hour wet cell batteries will weigh close to 120-130 lbs while the lipo4 battery having the same total output will weigh around 30 lbs or less. With current pricing two wet cell batteries would cost you the same as a decent 100amp hour lipo battery. Wet Cell lead batteries unless used as a high amperage starting batteries really are not the best choice any more.
I've been looking at this model for a while. I just watched another video on stability and it looks pretty good. I'm 6'4 250 and it looks like it might be able to handle me well enough. I like the upgrades you did. I've never done kayak fishing, but have been in canoes. Would you recommend this for a first time buy?
I recommend it. I have the 133x with an 24v minn kota ulterra. I have 2 lead acid batteries in the back on some 2x6 wood. I have it on a flat aluminum trailer from harbor freight. I just back it into the water and use the remote to deploy the trolling motor and then spot lock it away from the dock while I'm parking the car. Windy days are the best for spot lock. 133x, flat trailer, any spot lock (must have) livescope, side scan... awesome setup.
@YakSquad I do not recommend doing that. That would rip right out of this boat, the hull and tracks are no where near strong enough for landing gear. The hulls that are landing gear compatible are significantly thicker and have long and thick steel tracks screwed in with large stainless screws into brass inserts to handle and spread the weight. If you install landing gear into the hull of this kayak it’ll most likely rip through your hull on the first use. The only way you could conceivably install landing gear is to install steel plates on the inside of the hull to screw the landing gear into. But even then it’s not worth the hassle when a cart is available. Native watercraft’s, bonafides, etc are landing gear compatible for a reason. They built them from the ground up for landing gear and have the hull strength/tracks to handle that weight and strain.
Boonedox does have steel plates. I put many on kayaks that were 200lb. Look at my native titan that I did at the shop. Remember it is not a wheel barrow so roll it to the water then put battery etc in the kayak. Not sure how thick it is the boat of course but it will be fine. I have used bait board before on the inside to spread the wait also. Go on yak squad .
Thank you for all the amazing information about this kayak, I've been looking at buying one for quite some time, and I think you sold me
Glad I could help!
I’d like to add to the flex in the deck specifically under the feet. There are foam blocks already installed from the factory that sort of work themselves out of position. You can adhere them with some sort of adhesive, or all I do is reposition them every once in awhile so that it doesn’t flex much at all. I’m 170lbs and I don’t see it failing anytime soon. I’ll touch on one other issue that I had with this kayak and how I mitigated it. The length and weight of this thing is no joke, especially when you start building it out. What I did was I found a used jet ski trailer on marketplace for cheap and customized it to fit this kayak. I fish alone 95% of the time, and I’m OCD about dragging kayaks on any surface. Trailer is pretty much the way to go if you’re solo. Loving the 133X content!!
Thanks for the input! I gotta admit I did drag this kayak on the surface a few times, only did it because of the back skid plates would take the weight and not the plastic itself. But DEFINITELY not a permanent way to move the boat. Only when I forgot the wheels.
I had the same concerns over weight and fishing alone 99.9 percent of the time and about to buy my first kayak, thanks for the info.
@@anthonyburdine2873 The weight capacity on the 133X is 550 lbs. One thing for sure, is this kayak is SUPER stable but heavy. Another option (if weight is a factor) is a Colorado Pontoon. You can find a really nice setups for a lower price than the Ascend 133X.
Love you build. I have the same kayak and have been doing similar upgrades. I have a bow mount trolling motor deing delivered, with it being a bow mou t and the transducer being at the bow, is there any interference from the prop with imaging on your monitor?
@@RichardWaterhouse-c9p little bit but not bad
Excellent video, great pacing for a prospective buyer. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very well said. I'm a Bonafide guy but I can see some pros with this one. Just subbed to help push you one more closer to 1000...you're gettin close. Hang in there.
We appreciate it
lol 17:26 I had to trade in my truck for a Subaru crosstrek, and i'm making it work solo! For anyone reading this with a car and not sure how hard it is, its really not. Just run the bow up perpendicular between the front and rear doors on either side, then lift the stern up all the way side ways and walk it over/rotate it till its on the roof rack. There are several videos on this technique on youtube. The hardest part, and its really not even that hard, is the initial bow pick up and rotating it over to the side of the car.
Hi. I just purchsed the Ascend 133x package. I am curious how to steer the motor. I am waiting for it to ship to me. Thanks.
You purchased a tournament package yak and never bothered to do a search on the systems or operation? Interesting.
Hey thanks for the video, lots of helpful information. I'm trying to decide between this and the pelican catch power 500 for my first kayak... I'll be on a budget so my trolling motor will have to be on a budget... any motor and kayak recommendations? I'd prefer a bow mount if I decided on the 133x and since it's price is lower than may be possible... I'm all ears I've been threading this needle for a while.
If your budget is lower I’d suggest a kayak that is made for a stern motor. Bow motors aren’t cheap in general compared to stern and I can over that Pelican power is more designed for a stern. So that would be my recommendation but depends on what you really want.
Been looking at these and have concerns with the amount of hull flex that seems to be evident with the trolling motor just bolted to the deck.
Seems as is there needs to be some serious bracing on both the top side and some braces run across the underside to distribute the motors weight both stored and deployed as well as the power or torque when the motor goes from off to powered up and pulling on the water..
I like the boat a lot and seems like the top side could be easily braced with like a "plastic" cutting board material and the underside about 3 pieces of aluminum channel in widths close to the width of the deck where they run across would pretty much eliminate those concerns.
The more front oriented channel under the deck and the raised area where the motor mount plate sits on washers could be used to allow that section to make contact with the aluminum channel under the deck and take advantage of the force still being distributed across a wider area and the thin plastic deck of the boat being sandwiched between the upper and lower bracing instead of all the force being applied in such a small concentrated area of thin plastic deck of the boat alone..
I haven’t had an issue with no extra support. Mind you I take my motor off when im not on the water which helps with long term strain. But yes, cutting board seems to be the most popular option. Thanks for the comment!
I have mine on an old jet ski trailer its so easy to get in the water at the boat ramp
Does the dual bank charger work with both a lead cell and lithium battery? If so what charger is it?
Yep it does. Noco genius Gen 5 x2
Isso é coisa de cinema! Parabéns! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Have you thought about adding an 1/8” removable plywood deck to the kayak to help prevent the common cracking issue with this model of kayak?
No we haven’t. Never had or heard of a legitimate cracking issue with this boat.
Manufacturer uses foam on the inside to stop flex. Do not use expandable foam lol. You can use large pool noodels to reinforced the hull.
@@YakSquad like I said in the video if someone is adamant on using spray foam used closed cell but we still don’t recommend it because of how permanent it is.
How long will that trolling motor battery last under heavy use and how is it secured? Thanks
I don’t transport with the battery installed so I don’t have anything currently securing it. I never had this battery fully die on me yet but I would imagine it could manage 2-3 hours of constant run time. I already upgraded this battery to a lithium ion
Im on between getting this one and a oldtown 106 mk?
Have you thought of adding closed cell foam inside the hull to add with stability for the rear cargo area?
Yes it has crossed our mind. The fear we have with it though is once it’s in there, it’s never coming out. Considering using foam even closed cell is so frowned upon in the kayaking world, even if closed cell is safer, in our eyes it just isn’t worth taking the risk. Especially when the warping rarely causes anything serious if you take care of the boat. I have yet to see a problem caused by the warping with this kayak outside of it looking visually unappealing. So it just isn’t worth the risk.
Did you take the foam out of the kayak that it came from the factory with???
No we haven’t it’s still there
Such a cool build, where do you put your fish you catch and keep?
All catch and release nothing is kept
Did you have any issues with overheating with the factory 10-gauge wiring for the trolling motor? I have heard that going to the 8-gauge is a must-have upgrade.
Absolutely no issues. I think it will vary on the trolling motor you are running but it handles the motor guide perfectly fine
Great review, nice work!
Much appreciated!
I am concerned with weight capacity on this boat. With upgrades, how much weight capacity is left for the angler? Also, it seems that Ascend borrows heavily from FeelFree. FeelFree uses foam covered plexiglass for the feet so that you have stable platform to stand on. Would this be an option?
Weight capacity is 550 lbs. That is one of the highest if not the highest weight capacity for kayaks on the market right now. There is plenty left over even with my weight and all my gear. I weigh about 150-175. All my gear is MAYBE another 100, but that’s pushing it maybe more like 50-75 pounds. So I have no concerns. I don’t know if feelfrees design is an option but I plan on using yoga blocks at a later date, havent had an issue without them though. Honest advice, If weight capacity is a concern even at that number, I’d suggest going with a smaller boat and not a kayak
So I used to be a big guy. I was well over 300lbs but a good case of Kidney disease took care of my weight. I am just shy of 6' 2" and I'm 220lbs. Initially I was looking at the Ascend 133, then I got sick and lost about 100lbs. I still like the Ascend but I kind of have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. One, is how does the craft handle a very heavy chop on the water? It looks like a fairly flat bottom which is not promising? I just need to know how you feel about having it in choppy water.
I have always been a rear motor guy, could you be more specific about why bow mount motors are better for you?
Finally is it legal in kayak competitions? I'm assuming so? Both of you are answering questions very well! Thank you!!
Hello. So yes, it is a catamaran style hull and it is extremely stable even through heavier waves. Haven’t had a huge issue the only time where I actually feel it is when I am driving the boat on the side of the waves and not head on.
I absolutely love the front motor. No awkwardly reaching behind the kayak whenever I need to make tiny adjustments, very fast I can get about 3.75 mph with myself, all my gear, and a 125lb kayak. Easy turning so there’s no struggling with it in choppy weather and wind. And just a push of a button it retracts and fits nicely in the hull. Not to mention you can always add spot lock to it. I highly recommend it over a rear one, so much easier and way less hassle.
Yes they should be legal. As long as there isn’t a gas motor behind it (don’t recommend), electric motors should be good in like 99% of tournaments. Hope that helps.
@@UntamedOutdoorsmen I will never see Competition because they don't have more than one large Smallmouth Lake in British Columbia. I use one of those dual inflatable pontoon boats but the more I see kayaks, the more I want to switch. Thank you for taking the time to answer me, it was very kind!
No problem. I typoed and put that I loved the rear one my bad I meant front
@@UntamedOutdoorsmen I understood no worries.
Whats the top speed with your 45# thrust motor on the 133?
I topped out at around 3.75 in perfect conditions
I am strongly considering this boat, I just seen some reviews of people getting massive stress cracks around where your feet go and also how it’s not actually plug and play and that you have to do some modifications for almost all accessories that come with it. Would you say that’s true?
I haven’t had any cracking problems like other reviews have mentioned. Depending on the mods you do then sure it won’t be all plug and play. But if you keep things simple and don’t over modify the boat like some do it will be very easy. Especially if you use the proprietary YakPower accessories they really are that simple. Things that aren’t made by YakPower so fish finders for example have to be set up their normal way then plug into the YakPower port, but it isn’t any more difficult than normal.
I’m sold I’m off to bass pro shop I’m so serious ima get a kayak trailer and this is the one! I wanted a hobie but if I buy the 133x and upgrade it I will be under the price of the hobie I wanted
Would love to see how it handle in waves rough water, is it easy or hard to turn. Show what it's like to operate.
Yeah I’ve got plenty of videos from last year on the water showing how this boat performs and plenty more in the coming weeks. Handles rough water very well for a kayak, probably some of the best kayak stability on the market right now.
Hmm i wonder if say a thin sheet of aluminum or stainless steel some epoxy and a few screws in those flex spots would help overall 🤔 im considering buying one
Maybe. Honestly the best fix is yoga blocks in my honest opinion. Safest and easiest option
Thank you for that. Im upgrading from a kayak that i flipped on and im kinda paranoid so that helps big time.
Expanding foum duse not hold water I put some in pvc pipe let it dry then filled it with water it never absorbed it not even after a month. I meshed the water it was the same after a month.
Some people I know have had that happen to them. Like I said, if there’s a way to do it safely, great.
How easy is this thing to paddle if you dont want to put a trolling motor on it?
@@neeleywoods3149 if you don’t want to use a motor I’d probably recommend going with the ascend 128x. This thing is not easy to paddle consistently
So how you transport it? You had a special trailer made for it?
Truck bed with a bed extender
@@UntamedOutdoorsmen thank you Sr. 👍
How do you transport this kayak like do you use a trailer
Truck bed with a bed extender
What are the battery’s and what volt are they.
Both 12v. Small battery is a 24ah lithium ion for all the accessories. Big battery is now a 100ah lithium ion for the trolling motor. Used to be a group 27 deep cycle but it was just too heavy. Hope that helps.
How does the title process work from Bass Pro Shops?
Just like how most of the plastic boats and kayaks go. Once you put a trolling motor on in my state it needs to be registered. The owners manual comes with the MSO but you can get it online also. Then I just filled out forms on my states website, went to the office and it was all set.
@@UntamedOutdoorsmen thanks. I am in Tallahassee FL might go get one soon.
Where can I get a replacement skid plate?
Don’t have an answer for you on that one. Maybe someone on ebay sells replacements? Or just get the dimensions of the old skid plate and take some ABS plastic and cut it to size?
I'm 6 5 and weigh in at 390 I love fishing and am looking to make some changes to diet and exercise patterns to drop this weight do you think this would hold me I know it says 550lbs but my concern is all my weight concentrated in one spot this won't be a issue forever as I'm planning on dropping weight but I'm concerned starting out
You should be fine.
I can't speak about this particular kayak, but as long as you have a high weight capacity kayak you'll be fine.
I'm 6'4" and weigh 380. I have been fishing out of the same kayak for 8 years now. I just wouldn't recommend standing up. Lol
Definitely run 2 batteries especially with a trolling motor
Actually if you go with at least 100 amp lipo4 battery it performs and has the same output as having 2 100 amp hour wet cell batteries.
Wet cell batteries you can only safely discharge down to 50% of capacity before you start damaging the batteries while lipo4's you can discharge to 100%.
Not to mention 2 wet cell 100 amp hour wet cell batteries will weigh close to 120-130 lbs while the lipo4 battery having the same total output will weigh around 30 lbs or less.
With current pricing two wet cell batteries would cost you the same as a decent 100amp hour lipo battery.
Wet Cell lead batteries unless used as a high amperage starting batteries really are not the best choice any more.
I've been looking at this model for a while. I just watched another video on stability and it looks pretty good. I'm 6'4 250 and it looks like it might be able to handle me well enough. I like the upgrades you did. I've never done kayak fishing, but have been in canoes. Would you recommend this for a first time buy?
I would. It’s a very stable kayak. I’m 6’3 170 and I haven’t had any issues with stability. It comes pretty bare which is good for upgrading.
I recommend it. I have the 133x with an 24v minn kota ulterra. I have 2 lead acid batteries in the back on some 2x6 wood. I have it on a flat aluminum trailer from harbor freight. I just back it into the water and use the remote to deploy the trolling motor and then spot lock it away from the dock while I'm parking the car. Windy days are the best for spot lock. 133x, flat trailer, any spot lock (must have) livescope, side scan... awesome setup.
Where’s the transducer mounted?
@D Carlton there is a dedicated mount location under the front scuper hole. It has thick black plate to screw into.
I'm 6'1 320 and I feel very comfortable on mine
Closed cell foam is non absorbent. Only open cell does that.
While that is true, I also didn't want something that permanent going into the hull, especially while dealing with wiring in the back.
@UntamedOutdoorsmen
Of course, I was talking about the transom area though..
How much it cost?
$1199 is what I paid
May as well just have a full on bass boat man
th-cam.com/video/YBPdWt7URUA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z6GN5x6foKggdtWQ
Get the livescope. Do it! lol
10k Subs and I’ll do it LOL!
Still use closed cell foam.
Ok
Boone dox landing gear.
@YakSquad I do not recommend doing that. That would rip right out of this boat, the hull and tracks are no where near strong enough for landing gear. The hulls that are landing gear compatible are significantly thicker and have long and thick steel tracks screwed in with large stainless screws into brass inserts to handle and spread the weight. If you install landing gear into the hull of this kayak it’ll most likely rip through your hull on the first use.
The only way you could conceivably install landing gear is to install steel plates on the inside of the hull to screw the landing gear into. But even then it’s not worth the hassle when a cart is available. Native watercraft’s, bonafides, etc are landing gear compatible for a reason. They built them from the ground up for landing gear and have the hull strength/tracks to handle that weight and strain.
Boonedox does have steel plates. I put many on kayaks that were 200lb. Look at my native titan that I did at the shop. Remember it is not a wheel barrow so roll it to the water then put battery etc in the kayak. Not sure how thick it is the boat of course but it will be fine. I have used bait board before on the inside to spread the wait also. Go on yak squad .
Look up native titan mini skiff.