Yea, it's refreshing to see a device that looks like it's actually designed to be repaired, that's getting rarer and rarer these days. Seems like a good board for beginners to work on.
Like the mc90 or treadmill motor driver board.. that thing tells you on the board how to modify it to work with all kinda things right on the board including component values and all..
Plus points for labeling the test points and connectors. Minus points for removing the µC part number and designing the front panel plastic for one-time install only.
Nice work as always Mick, well done. So, you not only fixed it, but you probably fixed a design floor which could be effecting anyone that's already purchased one. You're better than you think at this stuff you know. I mean there's a few 'fixers' on TH-cam which I totally enjoy watching, but with you, you go the extra mile. You've got skills which many people are envious of, me included. But you're a true gentleman for sharing them with us here on TH-cam. Thank you #RightToRepair
@@BuyitFixitMy appreciation is based on your content in it's entirety as collection, no matter how many thumbs up or views any of your videos might have accumulated. It's all good my friend. 👍
It’s so refreshing to see genuine diagnostic methodology used to find faults. Almost every other electronics “repair” channels obviously stage their repairs . What’s sad is the number of sheeple that are so impressed by their bogus repairs. Thanks for truly knowing how to diagnose and repair whatever is put in front of you. Always a pleasure to watch. You’re definitely have the best electronics repair channels around.
Another excellent repair! I love how the repair tends to create a story of how the problem happened, I.e. botched firmware update 🤣 Personal note: your channel is the reason why I was able to diagnose and fix a $500 water dispenser - turned out to be a 30 cent diode that I traced and replaced. Thanks so much!! 👍👍
@26:06 - I am kind of already enamored with this device. The fact that you are freely able to download firmware-level tools is admirable. The unit is only $119US on the Jungle site.
Excellent job. The firmware update probably fixed some initialisation issue with the bluetooth board. Given, nowadays, most bluetooth or wifi modules are self-contained, preassembled, FCC compliant certified, boards that are just stuck onto/into equipment they're usually the thing that causes the most grief with stray ones and zeros in the code. If the main units processor has to wait for the BT or wifi board to spit out a code to say it's ready and that code either doesn't arrive before the timeout elapses, especially if the developer didn't add in an "if timeout exceeded carry on anyway" code, or it gets garbaled in transit, the processor just stops loading the rest of the code. It can also be as simple as the developer didn't put in a timeout so the processor will wait forevermore for the BT or wifi card to say it's ready. God be with the days when developers had to squeeze every drop they could out of a 1.44 Mb floppy for their code, so everything had to be spot on and there was no room for errors.
Your theory concerning he history of this device seems spot-on. If I am not mistaken, you could have exposed a bit of the ground fill surrounding the unused pin and connected it to that. Unless, of course, said ground fill is not actually grounded, which might help explain the problem. If you happen to be very bored, you could take a look at the A/B/C inputs (pins 9...11) and decode the bit pattern to determine which input is being selected (presumably one of those next to the unused pin, so either 1 = high/low/low or 3 = high/high/low), and trace that back to determine why it's so high-impedance. I'd think it would go to the mic preamp, which should not normally have high output impedance. Perhaps there's a bad joint in between or something. Leaving the unused input floating seems like a design oversight (and one that would be trivially easy to correct), but it should not normally invite this level of interference by itself.
Thanks👍, yes turned out to be a firmware problem which is why it wasn't booting up, then there was the issue with the LEDs but I managed to sort that too 🙂
Great job! I like your channel. I can fix almost anything mechanical. Trying to learn Electronics. If you could explain a little bit more and your theory on these types of repairs it would be great. Your intuition on what to look for is amazing! I'm sure you have to keep the knowledgeable viewers happy as well. Thanks!
I used to work for a company making fire alarms and i worked in the test department fixing customer returns down to component level, but i had circuit diagrams, working pcbs and blank boards. I absolutely loved that job but I could never do want you do, so keep up the good work.
You nailed it (17:43). Yes, floating inputs on a CMOS anything doesn't seem to be wise. Even the datasheet suggests 10k pulldowns, albeit for switch inputs.
Hi, for clarification: As the 8 pins were being used as inputs then unsed pins can be shorted to ground but if they were used as outputs then a 10k pull down to ground would stop a potential short circuit?
@@ianhelsbyservices Difficult to be precise without knowing whether inputs or outputs and what the other pins are connected to. Early (and some late) CMOS devices (non-schottky) used mostly high-impedance mosfets which are very susceptible to noise, even from adjacent pins. I'll guess it was an input. Better to use a pulldown or pullup resistor (in my opinion) because, as you indicate, if it was an output then a direct connection to ground or Vcc could short something, albeit for a very short time.
Hi BI FI lol Yes its not uncommon on chips to tie unused pins to a zero or high. Usually zero. I found this with a lot of cmos chips in my day when i made my own ccts. The reason is they tend to FLOAT apparently depending on the purpose of the i c. Checking the specs like you did is the right way. Bit more investigation like you did Is best practice. Man you are worth your weigt in solder lol. Another great fix. Cheers
A nice little trick with removing knobs that are stubborn is to use two spoons one on either side to leaver it off. using a screwdriver tends to mark up the face plate 😮
I also think the new firmware supported a model with more input channels than the version you were repairing. The ABC line was scanning the non-existent input. A note on the 4051; different brands can react differently even though they are schematically the same. I had difficulty using the TI brand as their series resistance per channel was too high and their switching times were too slow. The ON Semi brand is dramatically faster in switching times.
Thanks Vince 👍I was watching your Game Cube video this morning (4AM) 😂😂 I only just got up. (I left a commment) We had some lambs born last night from our Valais sheep and we are going to have to hand rear them, they seem to be doing ok. My wife has just gone to bed as she's been up all night with them. Now I need to do some video editing 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit You lead a busy life Mick, I hope the GameCube video didn't give you nightmares!!! Good luck with the hand rearing, hope it all goes well for them👍
Hey, always trying to learn, so thank you for posting and narrating. It’s clear you have experience, so sometimes seem to make leaps - like all of a sudden, you’ve determined it that IC chip , like, how did you tell? It had voltage going to it, and without a schematic, why did you think it was wrong 18:07 ? Really love your videos, so please do keep going 👍
Thanks 👍I was looking at what makes the display actually move. When I touched that chip with my finger (introducing noise) the display moved so I knew it had something to do with at. I suspect the original IC was ok, but perhaps when they updated the software they started scanning the unused pin, perhaps it was tied to ground in later models, and this was an earlier version? That's the only thing that I can kind of think makes any sense as the the pin seemed completely not connected to anything.
Awesome sir....I was thinking that the firmware upgrade changed something so the floating pin became a problem....and the original firmware although flawed compensated for the ungrounded pin.
That is amazing, I know everything I need to know about a podcasting console now 🙂 Looks like a bit of fun to play around with though. LOVE the way you make soldering look SO simple. I can, but not simple for me at all. Practice I suppose.
When you got to the multiplexor I wondered which way it was multiplexing and whether an input code was stuck on the address lines causing it to display on an invalid output. Was rather hoping you'd scope it. 😁
I only thing I can think is that perhaps they were doing something in the software like reading inputs 0-6 and somehow in later software they changed it to 0-7 or something like that. Just pulling the unused i/o pin down seemed to cure it.
Great repair. I believe that pin was meant to be at gnd through the via next to it. Maybe the connection between the pin and the via got broken somehow (manufacturing issue?) and the pin was left floating.
As a DJ I thoroughly enjoyed your trouble shooting in this video. Great work! was wondering what you do with all your fixed items? do you keep them or on sell them? I could see you getting some use out of this item.
Thanks Andymouse, yes I'm not sure if that could have been the original problem and someone bricked it trying to update the firmware to see if that would cure it, or if the new firmware caused the problem by scanning that pin when the original firmware didn't. I even thought have other units had this problem and they did a small modification on them, and they somehow missed this out out? It's a bit of a mystery to me too!
Thanks, I just usually search in a category such as "audio equipment" for "faulty" or "repair" or "please read" or "untested" or you can also tick the condition checkbox where it says "for parts or not working"
Great channel! Instant sub. Have a Altronix power supply for a electric strike on a door (I'm a locksmith btw) and it has a lot of components on the board. (like about 100) I tested everything (in circuit) and came across 1 diode that measured 000.1 each way in diode mode (and it beeped in continuity mode as well) De-soldered it and now it tests fine. _The power supply is completely dead and I'm still troubleshooting it but wanna know your thoughts on that diode_ Is that normal? I also suspect the electrolytic caps need replaced .....especially a small one surrounded by big heat sinks and a transformer. Plus the entire board is mounted in a steel cabinet in a hot kitchen. Thanks
Thanks. The next video (just making a few last minute edits / corrections) is on a switch mode power supply. I did one previously which may also be useful. I watch the lock picking lawyer too 😂😂😂👍
I did type a pretty long comment but I don't see it ......I have a Maono gaming microphone and boom arm , sounds great in my live streams , I go live on Wednesday's at 6:30 PM ..... I want to thank you again for the feedback in my scope videos ..... Anyways great fix , Take Care Mon Ami ..
Thanks Cajun, I too have noticed some comments disappearing or not showing I even contacted TH-cam support but didn't really get an answer. I know they automatically remove comments they consider spam 🤷♂️.
As I've repaired everything at home😊 is there a sophisticated way for searching for broken stuff except the obvious to write FAULTY in the search bar? I don't see the "for parts" option in the advanced search on eBay for example...
It's usually under 'condition' but it only shows in sub categories. For instance in 'video games and consoles' it only shows new and used but if you then go into just 'video game consoles' you get the options of 'For parts or not working' you can cheat and manually edit the URL &LH_ItemCondition=7000 instead of 3000 for used.
It seems they have removed it from the site. I used internet archive to find it for you! cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/0025/5934/4686/files/Maonocaster_E2_Update_drivers.zip
I'm not sure how the original firmware was corrupted. The unused pin might not have been getting selected in the original firmware and the new firmware there might have introduced a bug or on later revisions of the hardware this pin was grounded so they didn't have this problem. Perhaps they made a mistake on V1.0 for instance and did a small mod like I did on the other units, but forgot to do it on this one?. The pad on this unit wasn't connected to anything that I could see and there was ground pads right next to the pin.
Hi love watching your videos I’ve got boiler control panel that flashes like a Christmas tree when it been switched off over night but if I leave it on for a minute it comes back to live and runs as should like it wait for some to charge up any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated 🙏
It was a similar story with the 1up Arcade machine I looked it. It also had the numbers mechanically removed although someone did have some success on reddit I think it was in revealing them on a different board with some IPA.
@@BuyitFixit thank you so much. i bought a used one. seller told me that dc doesn't work. turns out everything works it's just that the two headset ports fell off and gone missing. thank you for the video!
Good question, I was just a cheap one I bought from Amazon or Ebay. I don't think I'd recommend. It's OK, but I'm sure the one I used previously worked a lot better.
Thanks 👍Yes it's odd.Perhaps this was the original problem and someone stuffed up doing the firmware update, or the new firmware update has an error and scans the unused pin by mistake? or they did a fix like I did on all of the other units, but somehow forgot to do this one? 🤷♂️
ML320. Need a 4WD for where I live lol. The Amazon driver came down the driveway and got stuck. Had to get the little telehandler with the bucket on and start gritting the driveway so he could get out... either that or I was going to drag his van up with the tractor 😂😂😂
I've just done a search for this chip as I was interested. I found a data sheet for the pinout here: www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004775902492.html perhaps waybackmachine (internet archive) may have the update file you mentioned.
I was wondering about the same thing as well, as this chip should have a complete bluetooth baseband and ADC/DACs inside. The only logical explaination I can come up with is they wanted to cheap out on antenna design, and using prebuilt modules would let them skip that big hump
It says "not available" when I tried it. I've just updated the link, problem is it's an old video and if sellers stop selling, I need to go back and manually change them all. Cheers 👍
![Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasound Cleaner - "Untested Customer Return" - [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/auE5GulLQXc/mqdefault.jpg)
PCB with test points AND description for those? Call me impressed 😁
Yes, me too 👍
Yea, it's refreshing to see a device that looks like it's actually designed to be repaired, that's getting rarer and rarer these days. Seems like a good board for beginners to work on.
Like the mc90 or treadmill motor driver board.. that thing tells you on the board how to modify it to work with all kinda things right on the board including component values and all..
Plus points for labeling the test points and connectors. Minus points for removing the µC part number and designing the front panel plastic for one-time install only.
Nice work as always Mick, well done. So, you not only fixed it, but you probably fixed a design floor which could be effecting anyone that's already purchased one. You're better than you think at this stuff you know. I mean there's a few 'fixers' on TH-cam which I totally enjoy watching, but with you, you go the extra mile. You've got skills which many people are envious of, me included. But you're a true gentleman for sharing them with us here on TH-cam. Thank you #RightToRepair
Thanks Marc 👍really appreciate it. Seems TH-cam doesn't think this video is a good as some of my other recent ones....bloody algorithm 🤷♂️😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixitMy appreciation is based on your content in it's entirety as collection, no matter how many thumbs up or views any of your videos might have accumulated. It's all good my friend. 👍
@marcyd2007 Thanks mate 👍
Surgical patience, research, and precision... Thank you.
Thanks 👍You're welcome 🙂
Dang, you're gooood.... I watch a lot of repair videos from all different channels, yours is one of the best.
Cheers mate 👍I wish the TH-cam algorithm would also think that 🤷♂️
It’s so refreshing to see genuine diagnostic methodology used to find faults. Almost every other electronics “repair” channels obviously stage their repairs . What’s sad is the number of sheeple that are so impressed by their bogus repairs. Thanks for truly knowing how to diagnose and repair whatever is put in front of you. Always a pleasure to watch. You’re definitely have the best electronics repair channels around.
@@TheElectronicDilettante Thanks so much, really appreciate it👍
Another excellent repair! I love how the repair tends to create a story of how the problem happened, I.e. botched firmware update 🤣
Personal note: your channel is the reason why I was able to diagnose and fix a $500 water dispenser - turned out to be a 30 cent diode that I traced and replaced. Thanks so much!! 👍👍
Thanks David 👍Glad I was able to help you fix something I've not even looked at! 😂😂🙂👍😊
@26:06 - I am kind of already enamored with this device. The fact that you are freely able to download firmware-level tools is admirable. The unit is only $119US on the Jungle site.
Yes seems a quite fun little device 👍
Excellent job.
The firmware update probably fixed some initialisation issue with the bluetooth board. Given, nowadays, most bluetooth or wifi modules are self-contained, preassembled, FCC compliant certified, boards that are just stuck onto/into equipment they're usually the thing that causes the most grief with stray ones and zeros in the code.
If the main units processor has to wait for the BT or wifi board to spit out a code to say it's ready and that code either doesn't arrive before the timeout elapses, especially if the developer didn't add in an "if timeout exceeded carry on anyway" code, or it gets garbaled in transit, the processor just stops loading the rest of the code.
It can also be as simple as the developer didn't put in a timeout so the processor will wait forevermore for the BT or wifi card to say it's ready.
God be with the days when developers had to squeeze every drop they could out of a 1.44 Mb floppy for their code, so everything had to be spot on and there was no room for errors.
Thanks 👍1.44Mb that's huge! I learned basic on a nascom2 and a zx81 😂😂😂
Your theory concerning he history of this device seems spot-on.
If I am not mistaken, you could have exposed a bit of the ground fill surrounding the unused pin and connected it to that. Unless, of course, said ground fill is not actually grounded, which might help explain the problem.
If you happen to be very bored, you could take a look at the A/B/C inputs (pins 9...11) and decode the bit pattern to determine which input is being selected (presumably one of those next to the unused pin, so either 1 = high/low/low or 3 = high/high/low), and trace that back to determine why it's so high-impedance. I'd think it would go to the mic preamp, which should not normally have high output impedance. Perhaps there's a bad joint in between or something.
Leaving the unused input floating seems like a design oversight (and one that would be trivially easy to correct), but it should not normally invite this level of interference by itself.
Thanks for your thoughts, and for commenting 👍🙂
Really interesting - I wish I could comprehend everyting going on. This is from a person who loved his Philips Electronic Engineer back in the day.
Thanks👍, yes turned out to be a firmware problem which is why it wasn't booting up, then there was the issue with the LEDs but I managed to sort that too 🙂
Great job! I like your channel. I can fix almost anything mechanical. Trying to learn Electronics. If you could explain a little bit more and your theory on these types of repairs it would be great. Your intuition on what to look for is amazing! I'm sure you have to keep the knowledgeable viewers happy as well. Thanks!
Thanks 👍yes unfortunately it's the old saying you can't please all of the people all of the time. Cheers Mike 👍
I used to work for a company making fire alarms and i worked in the test department fixing customer returns down to component level, but i had circuit diagrams, working pcbs and blank boards. I absolutely loved that job but I could never do want you do, so keep up the good work.
Interesting! And Thanks 👍
Man ! that was a great fix 😊i need to get up to this boss level !...this channel needs way more subscribers !
Thanks Mike 👍 Yes, tell TH-cam.. for some reason they think this video isn't as good as some of my other recent ones 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit I do recommend you ! but to be fair,pootube are absolutely useless !
You nailed it (17:43). Yes, floating inputs on a CMOS anything doesn't seem to be wise. Even the datasheet suggests 10k pulldowns, albeit for switch inputs.
Thanks Ralph. I still don't understand how other units are working fine though? Unless they did a similar mod and this one was forgotten?
@@BuyitFixit I'll hazard a guess that there may be more like this. Floating CMOS is unpredictable, as you know.
Hi, for clarification: As the 8 pins were being used as inputs then unsed pins can be shorted to ground but if they were used as outputs then a 10k pull down to ground would stop a potential short circuit?
@@ianhelsbyservices Difficult to be precise without knowing whether inputs or outputs and what the other pins are connected to. Early (and some late) CMOS devices (non-schottky) used mostly high-impedance mosfets which are very susceptible to noise, even from adjacent pins. I'll guess it was an input. Better to use a pulldown or pullup resistor (in my opinion) because, as you indicate, if it was an output then a direct connection to ground or Vcc could short something, albeit for a very short time.
Hi BI FI lol
Yes its not uncommon on chips to tie unused pins to a zero or high. Usually zero. I found this with a lot of cmos chips in my day when i made my own ccts. The reason is they tend to FLOAT apparently
depending on the purpose of the i c. Checking the specs like you did is the right way. Bit more investigation like you did
Is best practice. Man you are worth your weigt in solder lol. Another great fix. Cheers
Cheers 👍😂😂
A nice little trick with removing knobs that are stubborn is to use two spoons one on either side to leaver it off. using a screwdriver tends to mark up the face plate 😮
Thanks, Great Tip! 👍
I also think the new firmware supported a model with more input channels than the version you were repairing. The ABC line was scanning the non-existent input.
A note on the 4051; different brands can react differently even though they are schematically the same. I had difficulty using the TI brand as their series resistance per channel was too high and their switching times were too slow. The ON Semi brand is dramatically faster in switching times.
Thanks for the info. Yes I too suspect something like that with the firmware 👍
Another great fix, i"d say you was up there with north ridge for troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate 👍
Simply unbelievable. Impressive job😮. Have a nice day and thank you so much for your videos that are for me a very inspiration.❤️❤️
Thank you so much 👍
Amazing work as always Mick!
Thanks Vince 👍I was watching your Game Cube video this morning (4AM) 😂😂 I only just got up. (I left a commment) We had some lambs born last night from our Valais sheep and we are going to have to hand rear them, they seem to be doing ok. My wife has just gone to bed as she's been up all night with them. Now I need to do some video editing 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit You lead a busy life Mick, I hope the GameCube video didn't give you nightmares!!! Good luck with the hand rearing, hope it all goes well for them👍
Thanks Vince👍
What a nice pcb! Test points, description. JL bluetooth chip on a seperate board? Wow! And (almost) every chip has a number
Yes, makes a change doesn't it 😂😂😂👍
You are the patience master.
Ha! Thanks Tom 👍
Hey, always trying to learn, so thank you for posting and narrating. It’s clear you have experience, so sometimes seem to make leaps - like all of a sudden, you’ve determined it that IC chip , like, how did you tell? It had voltage going to it, and without a schematic, why did you think it was wrong 18:07 ? Really love your videos, so please do keep going 👍
Thanks 👍I was looking at what makes the display actually move. When I touched that chip with my finger (introducing noise) the display moved so I knew it had something to do with at. I suspect the original IC was ok, but perhaps when they updated the software they started scanning the unused pin, perhaps it was tied to ground in later models, and this was an earlier version? That's the only thing that I can kind of think makes any sense as the the pin seemed completely not connected to anything.
Awesome sir....I was thinking that the firmware upgrade changed something so the floating pin became a problem....and the original firmware although flawed compensated for the ungrounded pin.
Thanks 👍Yes I think the same thing too. Perhaps they made a later revision of the board and just tested the newer firmware on that revision.
That is amazing, I know everything I need to know about a podcasting console now 🙂
Looks like a bit of fun to play around with though.
LOVE the way you make soldering look SO simple. I can, but not simple for me at all. Practice I suppose.
Thanks Chris 👍
That grinding pen is still my favorite. I use it a lot for all kinds of things.
Yes, they're a handy tool 👍
When you got to the multiplexor I wondered which way it was multiplexing and whether an input code was stuck on the address lines causing it to display on an invalid output. Was rather hoping you'd scope it. 😁
I only thing I can think is that perhaps they were doing something in the software like reading inputs 0-6 and somehow in later software they changed it to 0-7 or something like that. Just pulling the unused i/o pin down seemed to cure it.
Great repair. I believe that pin was meant to be at gnd through the via next to it. Maybe the connection between the pin and the via got broken somehow (manufacturing issue?) and the pin was left floating.
I couldn't see any traces or anything near that pad. The pad looked perfect as if it was just an intentionally isolated pad.
Thanks! I learn something from every one of your videos!
Nice 👍
As a DJ I thoroughly enjoyed your trouble shooting in this video. Great work! was wondering what you do with all your fixed items? do you keep them or on sell them? I could see you getting some use out of this item.
Thanks 👍I've not sold anything yet but I do need to have a clear out so I'll probably list some stuff on Ebay at some point.
You're a genius mate
Cheers 👍🙂
Great patience you have..
Thanks 👍
Very well done,good fault finding skills!
Thanks 👍
Heya, really nice repair. love to see this stuff
Cheers 👍
Thanks. Excellent repair video 👍
Thanks 👍
Another great fix, Thanks Mick.
Thank you too 👍
Were any of those caps used for smoothing of the incoming mic signal? Would have loved to see the scope on the input pins of that chip.
14:08 😱 is it a service measurements hole? 🤔
Very good repair👍👍.
Yeahh korrupt firmware😢🤯.
Thanks 👍
Great fix, thanks Mick 😀
Thanks Mike 👍
Perfect video, nice diagnostic and test. Who know, what is source of that mic issue. Thank You
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice repair job. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Great fix ! but its left me a bit perplexed as I would love to know the truth, but its fixed and thats what counts...cheers.
Thanks Andymouse, yes I'm not sure if that could have been the original problem and someone bricked it trying to update the firmware to see if that would cure it, or if the new firmware caused the problem by scanning that pin when the original firmware didn't. I even thought have other units had this problem and they did a small modification on them, and they somehow missed this out out? It's a bit of a mystery to me too!
But we're not gonna lose any sleep !!...cheers !! @@BuyitFixit
@33:19 - Was that pin fitted or used on this breakout board that you got? Brilliant way to get chips shipped!
Yes, it's one of the 8 I/O ports, but I guess they didn't use it in this product.
Great video, you have such a variety of repairs on your channel, how do you find the ebay items, what do you look for?
Thanks, I just usually search in a category such as "audio equipment" for "faulty" or "repair" or "please read" or "untested" or you can also tick the condition checkbox where it says "for parts or not working"
Mick is there any end to your skills, very good diagnosis skills well done thanks for sharing 😊
Thanks mate 👍
@@BuyitFixit you’re welcome mate
@@BuyitFixit hey Mick I’m away until the 11th so don’t worry about posting it back until after that date no one will be here thank you ☺️
@@wisher21uk no worries mate. I've still to look at it yet 😂😂 Seems like I'm always playing catch up 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit like I said Mick no rush mate it’s sat here for months lol cheers Gary
Nice work. Think I would have given up long before that!
Thanks! 👍 I've had a couple of items with faults like this, another was the AVerMedia capture device I looked at if you didn't see that one.
This was a nice video! Good to see the thing fixed. When can we expect the first Buy it Fix it Podcast? :P :P :D :D
😂😂😂😂Thanks, naa podcasting isn't my thing lol
Sound job 😎👍🏼
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Auto tune is audio processing software which corrects pitch errors in a singer’s (or instrument’s) voice.
Yes, I think it was "Believe - Cher" when used it also.
Great channel!
Instant sub.
Have a Altronix power supply for a electric strike on a door (I'm a locksmith btw) and it has a lot of components on the board. (like about 100)
I tested everything (in circuit) and came across 1 diode that measured 000.1 each way in diode mode (and it beeped in continuity mode as well)
De-soldered it and now it tests fine.
_The power supply is completely dead and I'm still troubleshooting it but wanna know your thoughts on that diode_
Is that normal?
I also suspect the electrolytic caps need replaced .....especially a small one surrounded by big heat sinks and a transformer.
Plus the entire board is mounted in a steel cabinet in a hot kitchen.
Thanks
Thanks👍My next video in an hour or two might be helpful 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit Awesome!
I've been binge watching your videos all morning! Wish I had 1/1000 of your knowledge!
Thanks. The next video (just making a few last minute edits / corrections) is on a switch mode power supply. I did one previously which may also be useful. I watch the lock picking lawyer too 😂😂😂👍
Out of interest is the Milwaukee nail gun still working?????
Yes. Although I don't really use it that often compared to someone such as a builder.
Awesome vid. Wondering how did uou acknowledged that line as chip select just by eye. Any visual clues?
I quickly searched for the datasheet and pinout online 👍
Happy Saturday, mate!
Thanks 👍happy Saturday to you too!
Brilliant
Cheers Matt 👍
Glad I found your channel
Me too! 👍
I did type a pretty long comment but I don't see it ......I have a Maono gaming microphone and boom arm , sounds great in my live streams , I go live on Wednesday's at 6:30 PM ..... I want to thank you again for the feedback in my scope videos ..... Anyways great fix , Take Care Mon Ami ..
Thanks Cajun, I too have noticed some comments disappearing or not showing I even contacted TH-cam support but didn't really get an answer. I know they automatically remove comments they consider spam 🤷♂️.
As I've repaired everything at home😊 is there a sophisticated way for searching for broken stuff except the obvious to write FAULTY in the search bar? I don't see the "for parts" option in the advanced search on eBay for example...
It's usually under 'condition' but it only shows in sub categories. For instance in 'video games and consoles' it only shows new and used but if you then go into just 'video game consoles' you get the options of 'For parts or not working' you can cheat and manually edit the URL &LH_ItemCondition=7000 instead of 3000 for used.
@@BuyitFixit aaargh... Went up to 6000 and stopped as I was getting nothing. Persistence ;) thank you!
Dear friend, I have the same problem and I can't find the update available, could you provide a download link?
It seems they have removed it from the site. I used internet archive to find it for you! cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/0025/5934/4686/files/Maonocaster_E2_Update_drivers.zip
@@BuyitFixit Thank you friend, you helped me a lot, my problem was fixed, like and subscribe to the channel
What do you think went wrong? Would not the original PCB have linked the unused pin to ground? or there is some kind of microscopic crack developed??
I'm not sure how the original firmware was corrupted. The unused pin might not have been getting selected in the original firmware and the new firmware there might have introduced a bug or on later revisions of the hardware this pin was grounded so they didn't have this problem. Perhaps they made a mistake on V1.0 for instance and did a small mod like I did on the other units, but forgot to do it on this one?. The pad on this unit wasn't connected to anything that I could see and there was ground pads right next to the pin.
Superb
Thanks 👍
Hi love watching your videos I’ve got boiler control panel that flashes like a Christmas tree when it been switched off over night but if I leave it on for a minute it comes back to live and runs as should like it wait for some to charge up any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated 🙏
Sounds possibly like a capacitor.
Nice one, I still say you're a lucky beggar. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍😂😂😂
15:54 Anti-Repair at it's finest. That or stolen product made it to the factory?
It was a similar story with the 1up Arcade machine I looked it. It also had the numbers mechanically removed although someone did have some success on reddit I think it was in revealing them on a different board with some IPA.
Nice one . . . .
Thanks 🙂👍
hi can i have the driver update. i cant find it on their website
Yes they seem to have removed it. I found a the link via internet archive and I've added it to the video description.
@@BuyitFixit thank you so much. i bought a used one. seller told me that dc doesn't work. turns out everything works it's just that the two headset ports fell off and gone missing. thank you for the video!
Bravo
Thanks Matt 👍
Their logo is so close to the famous Focal brand who makes some of the most neutral and accurate headphones on the planet.
what desoldering wick do you use ?
Good question, I was just a cheap one I bought from Amazon or Ebay. I don't think I'd recommend. It's OK, but I'm sure the one I used previously worked a lot better.
Probably the metal case shield the chips of any interference, so with it full assembled it shouldn't have any problems with interference!
Metal case? It's all plastic.
@@BuyitFixit sorry by the video I thought it was metal.
No problem mate 👍
This is an inexpensive device. Looking at the components it may be worth it depending on the sound quality of the preamps.
You must have heard me screaming to pull down the floating pin ;) Very weird. Seems like a few instances have come up where youve fixed a design flaw
Thanks 👍Yes it's odd.Perhaps this was the original problem and someone stuffed up doing the firmware update, or the new firmware update has an error and scans the unused pin by mistake? or they did a fix like I did on all of the other units, but somehow forgot to do this one? 🤷♂️
very nice what car do you have ?
ML320. Need a 4WD for where I live lol. The Amazon driver came down the driveway and got stuck. Had to get the little telehandler with the bucket on and start gritting the driveway so he could get out... either that or I was going to drag his van up with the tractor 😂😂😂
Have not watched the whole video yet but that power press and plug into the pc is probably is a debug or programming mode for firmware.
Its a bird ? , Its a plane ?? nope that is Superman
😂😂😂👍
I guess I'm just too bored...
The MCU is a MVSilicon BP1048, seems to be pretty popular in certain bluetooth speakers and soundbars
Interesting, Thanks for letting me know 👍
@@BuyitFixit More interestingly, they took the update file link off their website just a few hours after this comment was posted...
I've just done a search for this chip as I was interested. I found a data sheet for the pinout here: www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004775902492.html perhaps waybackmachine (internet archive) may have the update file you mentioned.
It seems if this chip has built in Bluetooth, why didn't they use it? and used an external module on the other side of the board? strange...
I was wondering about the same thing as well, as this chip should have a complete bluetooth baseband and ADC/DACs inside.
The only logical explaination I can come up with is they wanted to cheap out on antenna design, and using prebuilt modules would let them skip that big hump
I have a MacBook Air with a Rode NT1A, I’m cooked cause I can’t get any audio whatsoever with my MacBook Air or the audio of the mixer itself.
Now you can sound like a Robot LOL
😂😂😂😂👍
I would never have picked firmware
If you haven't seen the Avermedia device I looked at, check that one out 😉
From much experience the cap would have been fine
Just checked on the price of the USB tester - £157
I then checked on ebay - $23 aus dollars.
It says "not available" when I tried it. I've just updated the link, problem is it's an old video and if sellers stop selling, I need to go back and manually change them all. Cheers 👍
IDK, Can you? Maybe you can't.
Sure AF can't think of better video titles.
Brilliant
Thanks👍