Architecture and Fashion Overlap in So Many Ways
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2022
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Notre: www.notre-shop.com/
Norman Kelley: www.normankelley.us/
Architecture and fashion seem like unlikely bedfellows. However, in more ways than one, they are cut from the same cloth. Ancient nomadic tribes lived in shelters made of cloth and animal furs, the very same materials used for clothes. So, clothes and buildings were made from the same craftspeople. Over time, as our constructions filled the basic needs for protecting the human body, these pursuits were elevated into distinct artforms. Today, designers like Virgil Abloh, formally trained as an architect, stitch the two pursuits back together with shows that reference designs by Mies van der Rohe, or jackets filled with puffy 3D buildings. Fashion retail environments also bring space and clothes together, often in thoughtful and interesting ways. This video looks at the history of architecture and fashion and visits a fashion retail store in Chicago called Notre, designed by Norman Kelley.
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Architecture with Stewart is a TH-cam journey exploring architecture’s deep and enduring stories in all their bewildering glory. Weekly videos and occasional live events breakdown a wide range of topics related to the built environment in order to increase their general understanding and advocate their importance in shaping the world we inhabit.
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Stewart Hicks is an architectural design educator that leads studios and lecture courses as an Associate Professor in the School of Architecture at the University of Illinois at Chicago. He also serves as an Associate Dean in the College of Architecture, Design, and the Arts and is the co-founder of the practice Design With Company. His work has earned awards such as the Architecture Record Design Vanguard Award or the Young Architect’s Forum Award and has been featured in exhibitions such as the Chicago Architecture Biennial and Design Miami, as well as at the V&A Museum and Tate Modern in London. His writings can be found in the co-authored book Misguided Tactics for Propriety Calibration, published with the Graham Foundation, as well as essays in MONU magazine, the AIA Journal Manifest, Log, bracket, and the guest-edited issue of MAS Context on the topic of character architecture.
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University of Illinois at Chicago School of Architecture: arch.uic.edu/
One of the reasons architects like Tom Ford and Virgil turned to fashion is because there are so many parallels in both of them, for example making a pattern for your dress is very much like making a working drawing for an architectural project. use of geometry and mathematics is vital in both of them and I guess once you enter the life of design it follows you everywhere regardless of the stream. Great video Stuart. Keep it up 👍🏼😊
I'm not an architect nor am I studying to be one but there is something of your videos that I keep coming back for more. I really enjoy them.
That warms my heart. Glad you're compelled to come back!
That “stramp” sounds good as something to talk about and obviously looks smart, but every time I have met steps with varying risers it’s spelt trouble. All across the city where these things have been allowed to materialise they have to paint the edge yellow or retrofit rails or obstructions to block people using the narrowest edge. People do NOT like to encounter a 2 cm riser where they might have expected something larger or smaller.
i could see an issue w these being more street side/open to pedestrians, but i think as a feature INSIDE a building its pretty dope. but also im a daggum hick lmao id probably break my neck trying to get up one of these fancy doohickies
Where used in high traffic access areas, they also fail to offer equitable access as they force people reliant on the ramp to traverse large volumes of people using the steps. They can be great when executed well in appropriate locations, but like most things, they’re not universally or inherently great.
Yes, it also seems very difficult to actually use with a wheelchair. They have no lip or handrail to prevent falls, a lot of difficult hairpin turns, and a constant flow of people walking in front of you in unexpected directions.
Before even watching the video completely agree with them being intertwined my first love was sneakers and vintage clothes from there I moved on to video arts and now I’m going back to school for architecture and this Channel has been super integral in getting me into it
Same but i was into architecture first then the fashion bug caught me
@@phathutshedzonevhungoni2951 the link between them is so solid to the fact that it almost doesn't make sense to be interested in architecture and not fashion (or vice versa)
Love this man almost my exact same story. Started with sneakers and just started looking up ⬆️
Love how the flow into the Notre store represents our relation to the world -
First we see shoes - arguably the piece of clothing that most interacts with the world, hot pavement, rainy asphalt, snowy driveways.
Then it’s clothes. That we show to the world, but also protects us from bumping into people, rain, etc.
Then it’s skincare, the final outside interface layer that separates our body from the world.
Then it’s the library, that enriches the mind, the most inner, intimate interface we have with the world.
I also love the stairs in the beginning. It’s a wonderful program that shifts our attention down, near our feet, near our shoes. Then we immediately see new shoes that can be put on those feet we just saw.
Stewart, I’m a freshman undergrad student studying architecture at USC, and I feel like your videos are the perfect accompaniment to my education. Your use of both architectural canon to help build the audience’s knowledge of the canon, while diving into more niche architecture is lovely. I look forward to continuing to learn from your videos!
Stewart, I love how you show the interconnecting of architecture and fashion/art. Architects are view as temple worshipers and the truth is we are world builders. There are so many layers and directions this discipline can take you in life. Great content!
I feel like this topic on its own could be an amazing university course.
Really enjoying this series Stewart - seriously re-igniting my passion for architectural practice! Possibly the most well put-together video to date!
You are also an "Impresario" of the performance of Architectural ideas!
Keep teaching, entertaining and promoting us to new perspectives on the architectural landscape.
Mr. Hicks you brought out the awe!! Back in the day I use to visit May Co, Higbees, they had interior fashion rooms that exploded your senses. And that FLW making you a living part of his vision........genius. Lov the vid, thanks.
Halfway through and amazing to see someone talk about fashion and architecture as two halves of one coin
That fashion store looks like the snobbiest place I could possibly imagine, hands down.
This was excellent Stewart, I’ve always been interested in the visual connections between architecture and design and this video really hit it. I had not heard of Virgil Abloh until I read a good bit about him when he died, he struck me as being somewhat like Tom Ford in having a talent that could range over almost any artistic endeavoring.
In the history of modern cinema, the relationship between architecture and human drama has only been fully exploited by a few filmmakers, and it could do an architect well to learn how architecture is use as a Mise-en-scene for film. This was articulated by Finnish architect Juhani Pallasmaa in his book The Architecture of Image (2007), within which he effectively shows us the importance of architecture in four iconic filmmakers work -- Hitchcock, Kubrick, Tarkovsky and Antonioni.
interesting that virgil abloh went to architecture school, i was not aware - i know he had his hand in music and design in general, and that overlap makes sense. i got interested in design myself through architecture.
Dover Street Market is also another great example of fashion and architecture being connected. They sell Avant Garde/streetwear brands and their store has exposed beams, concrete floors, and a unique way of displaying the clothes for sale. It's also pretty cool because you can almost get lost in the store like it's a museum and not like a typical fast fashion store.
Finally! The video I was looking for so long ago. Fantastic work
I love Fashion and Architecture. This just made so much sense
This might explain why I hop with ease between videos on architecture and then haute couture.
I’m a professional musician and I know that whether in the performance or improvisation/composition state, awareness of form and how to move through that space is architecture in sound through time. I love seeing the connections between mediums.:)
this channel is a blessing
Just bought a new sewing machine now I’m cleaning to make room for it but I had to stop what I was doing and watch this.
my favourite vid of yours so far. nice
So glad you mentioned Virgil, he will be missed
Interesting how these crafts have diverged and specialised I wonder if they will converge again and we'll have buildings and clothes made in the same way
Notre is designed kinda like a small museum.
Oops..commented b4 you said it.☺
Love me some Mies!
This specific example seems both visually interesting and offputting. An attractive space that seems to call for docents instead of sales staff. Are we looking at merchandise or an exhibit?
Of course it’s difficult to make bricks into a stramp! Those bricks *clearly* want to be an arch…
Don't they all...
Always I amaze by your channel
Please about the Parque Central Urban Complex in Caracas, the greatest architectural icon in Venezuela. It is an almost unique example of a building/city. Within the Parque Central complex there is an area commercial, office area and residential area. It also has 4 museums (Children's Museum, Contemporary Art Museum, Keyboard Museum and Audiovisual Museum). It also has a movie theater, 8 conference rooms and a plenary room, 2 theaters and a church. It also has an apart hotel.
Great job thanks 👍
Thank you for this video
Excellent!
Hey, I haven't watched the rest of your videos, but I really loved what you've done here. Really cool insight into architecture and fashion. Awesome video
I love ideas like this, discovering natural links between seemingly unconnected phenomenon. genius
Just watched a video on BEST stores on Bright Sun Films page and the unique architecture used in 9 of their buildings. Would love to see your take on them.
Someday I hope fashion can become more than mere fashion, and architecture too.
Would love more on fashion
Wigs also use all the same words: weaves, wefts, etc.... Great video!
I like the stramp. What did he use instead of mortar? Resin?
i don't understand how the highly commercialized presentation of retail architecture should show us how architecture and fashion are interrelated. from the very promising title i was expecting something a bit further from the surface-level 'design-oriented practice A takes visual inspiration from design-oriented practice B'. instead i received the definition of a stramp, the layout of 'some' store, more of the never ending mies references and some people in skyscraper costumes. the title should be different.
I completely agree - this felt more like an advert for this one particular store (with some more or less interesting tidbits thrown in) - I was expecting a comparison between futuristic artitecture and complicated pattern drafting instead (just to name an example).
I know we get excited when architects get commissioned for fashion runways, but really and truly if we're gonna pull references in that space Etienne Russo / villa eugenie are the undeniable masters of runway staging right now. They're executing the kind of striking, ambitious, and intelligent installations that any architecture or design expo would go wild for, and they're doing it dozens of times a year for a variety of different clients and aesthetics. They really do not get the attention they deserve from design critics, let alone in architecture circles.
Hmmm, maybe it is better in reality but from the video, that brick stramp looks very easy to trip up on, it's not easy to tell where the levels change
I agree. I think the devil is really in the details - a subtle contrast change between the stairs and sloped walkway could be interesting. The design intention is nice bc it integrates both the accessible route with the general route without segregation - but with that said, bricks are kind of terrible for wheelchair users and people using other mobility devices (all of the joints and bumps).
Yay for stramps, we need more stramps
Just the video I needed to understand what I need to focus my business empire on 🍾 watch 👁👁
That is a huge amount of space for a small amount of product. The markups on the merchandise must be pretty high.
Great video, connecting the grand words of design and creativity.
3:21 ...what is a "cave" in this context?
i did never know fashion and architecture were co related. thank you for sharing. I am a junior architectural technologist but also have a plenty of interests in mens fashion
The store seems a little...awkward to me. It feels like the guy is very much trying to make it a "place" that's more than a store, like a place people would just hang out or whatever, given that he was saying stuff like "so they won't feel pressured to buy anything" and "sit here and reflect on blah blah". But it's still a store, and it kind of seems like it'd be mostly empty, so I'd feel pretty weird just sitting in this store with no intention of buying anything (I actually feel less awkward just hanging out in a soulless big store like target because no one working there cares, while I'd feel like this guy would probably be watching the single person just sitting in his personal store).
It also feels kind of directionless (cave? apothecary? streetwear? womens' clothing? embarrassing "street" art in a place where most items prob cost a month's rent for anyone who made that art?).
The video was still good though!
I think the architecture was very pleasing on the eyes, and having fewer items in a clothing store like this is probably better as it gives customers the time to take in more of the context of the pieces they're considering with less analysis paralysis. And considering the flat costs of the space, and the type of effort that goes into each sale here, items sort of have to be expensive for this to even have a chance to work: cheaper price tags might even lead to fewer sales in a store like this.
But I can't help but feel as if this is like a 15$ salad bar where the upper middle class gets to consume ''as an experience''. Covering up the parts about materialism that makes them feel bad instead of reflecting on why it does and accepting they have to find different, more social, and more sustainable ways of buying satisfaction.
Is it just me, or does Mr. Kelley not resemble a young Morrissey? Waiting to see if Stewart can illuminate architecture through an examination of Smiths songs. As always, keep up the great work.
This is not unusual. From an interior design perspective, for example, neutral color palettes(shades of blue, grey, khaki and green) are seen in commercial, healthcare and military institutions. Clothing that is worn, more or less, implements these color schemes, dependent on the person, of course. One will inform the other, even if we are not consciously aware of it. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I feel like this video could really have benefited from a lot more of a critical eye towards the fashion industry.
When i see modern high end fashion storefronts that are mostly empty and/or filled with art, it creeps me out. They're in the end still just stores advertising and selling products. The architectural pretentions (art, event space, etc) feel disingenuous and unwelcoming. Like the store is designed to turn away most people and then stroke the egos of the few who do shop there.
Saved to Watch Later playlist. Watch this tomorrow in school.(lol)
Im BA in architecture graduate but I think about Master in fashion design. What do you think guys?
This is also true with “outdated” fashion trends we look back at and laugh
So, buildings and dresses are cut from the same cloth?
Exactly!
The topics I enjoy the most are architecture and fashion. No wonder, since their so closely related and interwined! I think I'm going to pursue architecture in college. :)
Just graduated with an architecture degree 2 weeks ago and I was wondering what to do with my degree and I’m very grateful I ran into this video and your comment!
@@iamestar_ Thats so cool I wish you the best of luck
But do those bricks want to be a stramp?
Ad read smoother than the stramp
could you please do a video on Chief Keef’s influence on Chicago architecture?
The high end can be wildly impractical?
I am endlessly interested in architecture and this is very interesting and intriguing and insightful topic while at the same time seems wildly pretentious. Not necessarily that that's a bad thing, just seems like a place to house excessively priced wares where people with too much money go to over think things, as beautifully and thoughtfully designed as it is. It also displays examples of the absurdity I see in modern "Art" pieces. I feel like there has to be acknowledgment in the fact that throwing old pieces of disheveled basketball nets together and calling it art really signifies that the art is in the concept and not the piece itself and that the arts value is merely tied to how serious the artist takes the absurdity and how willing art buyers allow themselves to go along with that as well. Like that exact same art piece could have been made by a comedian in order to critique and lampoon how absurd modern art is and it would then be worthless. Artistic skill gives way to over bloated commentary so artists have to employ campaigns to convince others why their art is worth anything. There's also probably something to be said about how that piece of art can probably only be bought by someone with excessive means while the piece itself is supposed to represent urbanism: a term often used to describe hardship and inequality. And now I'm here babbling on probably overthinking everything myself…
If anyones interested in fashion and likes learning about design on TH-cam (which you must if you watch these videos) then Bliss Foster’s videos are great!
Architecture is everywhere and everything, it's scary tbh
Rothko Dinner Jacket. . . . Limnalism and Fascadism in the Context of Disney Land, maybe. . .
Anyone interested in either Fashion, architecture or Interior/furniture design will inevitably like the others after enough research.
Damn, even the legs. Must be all of the bike riding. Look great without the spray tan. I wish it would become a thing. Best
I think Rem started off in fashion but I may be wrong.
Also it’s worth mentioning that there is a difference between fashion in architecture and fashionable architecture. Beware of the latter 😅
The stramp feels like malicious compliance.
I think the stramp is a strip hazard
I am amazed the stramp passed ADA requirements. A self propelled wheelchair has difficulty traversing even the smoothest surfaces. The brick pattern is also visually confusing and could easily cause someone to stubble by misjudging their foot placement on the shall risers alongside the ramp. While pretty, I do not consider this good design.
on a critical note...that 'stramp' is not made out of bricks but it seems to be made of brick strips. suggesting there is probably concrete or something underneath and the bricks are just a facade for looks. so pls dont talk about the material used in this stramp as it if it were pure because it is not.
REST IN PEACE VIRGIL
Barong-barong in Tagalog is a makeshift shelter while Barong is a traditional clothing from the Spanish times but most probably have pre-colonial roots as well.
This is not researched tho just an observation.
whep-weave-FLR-never made that connection := )
Hi Stewart, your presentation is good and you are charismatic as always.
I think that the title of this video is misleading. I don’t think it explores the correlation between fashion and architecture. You present some interesting fashion stores and fashion related spaces and this is nice but it became disappointing to me because the title made me hope for something more.
I just saw the reply you gave to another comment with similar content with mine and I’m covered! ✅
Speaking as someone who walks with some difficulty after an injury, it's disheartening that the store owner has chosen to place large potted plants to block the handrails in the entry area.
Did you get paid to show the store???
The introduction of the video is great and the rest is VERY UNDERWHELMING
architecture and car design are also related closely.
Architecture and Fashion are related but not the same. Architectural design is objective in quality and Fashion is purely subjective. It is not being aware of the difference that means that lots of perfectly good buildings are demolished merely because they are referred to as out of fashion and therefore not looked after, maintained or repaired. The other aspect that gets ignored is that a high level of 'firmness', 'commodity' and 'delight' plus 'sustainable' in the C21. Anything of lower quality, in any or all those four aspects, is just a building design.
Architecture and fashion overlap because fashion is so fast that it can literally take inspiration from anywhere: fried egg ties, city skyline evening dresses, space age hats, written poetry. This episode was a bit weak though. You should have consulted a fashion expert for help.
I’m sorry, what’s the point of shopping if you don’t feel pressured to buy anything
it would be hilarious to say "an accessible entrance with the least amount of handrails" if it werent so sad and ignorant. nearly every aspect of that entrance is inaccessible, and they didnt even do the bare minimum of thinking for a single second about how any disabled person is supposed to actually use that.
first of all, the door is visibly extremely heavy, with this able bodied man having to push his full weight against it in the beginning of the video, making it nearly impossible for any wheelchair user, walker user, crutch user, little person, or anyone with below average strength to open it. the floor is made of bricks, which will rattle a wheelchair user if they try to roll across it. the ramp has many tight curves that are difficult or even impossible to make, depending on size of wheelchair. and if someone is angled slightly wrong before rolling forward, they could fall off the edge of the ramp down the stairs. the stairs are uneven in height compared to the ramp, which is a major tripping hazard. the bricks are also a busy pattern, which makes it extremely difficult to see the edges of the stairs so bonus tripping. not to mention the wide entrance with no handrails gives no support to people who need to support themselves while going up stairs.
if they claim to care about design while not realizing a single one of those points at any step of the process, theyre not only bad at design but also ableist and blatantly oblivious to the world around them. if i was there listening to this guy say that shit i would start hitting him w my cane lol. that entrance is dangerous and should be torn out entirely
Look man I know it's your channel and you can make whatever video you want but don't make the title "To Understand Architecture Just Look at Fashion" and then only talk about fashion retail stores :( The Virgil name drop and super brief mention of runway set design doesn't save this either... It's a decent video about a store you like but it didn't even scratch the surface of the relationship between fashion and architecture!
I appreciate the feedback and will take it into account. I have to say that finding the right scope for a video is very difficult. How much context to give, how many examples to use to illustrate a point, etc. I'm always experimenting. Also, titling videos is difficult when you're trying to tell a story and inform/explain at the same time.
So ...this isn't about fashion at all, but merely about fashion STORES (retail). I'm disappointed
Glorifying sneakers is so stupid. Those architecture jackets are absolutely terrible.
So Early
SO
so urly
Architecture is not fashion.
Wow, why is everybody a robot that throws a random plug or product placement advertisement in their video.... makes you look cheap and desperate.
Well that was pretentious.
8:24 shame. Couldn't the man be defined just as a designer instead of a "black designer"? The US is rotten with this type of racism.
Not impressed.
If someone can’t create automatization , doing symbols instead - this is fashion. Wrong patch over wrong hole. We can do builds with more automated functions and seamless performance. Fashion- is totally wrong destination.
Professor / post-modern Empresario Hicks!
PLEASE keep doing, "wat u doing".
F a ntastic t evolution of your work!
Thank you!