Pro-Tip: Use a wire brush on a clogged hole saw while it's spinning, not sandpaper. It's faster and will clean it right out. You are removing a clean-out route on the hole saw, and reducing the cut diameter, when you grind the side of the teeth with sandpaper. This, if you decide you are not going to use a forstner bit, which would be the better option :)
Indeed! I enjoy looking back on these older videos and see how much I've grown as a woodworker. It will be a long time before I claim to be anything more than a hobbyist. This is no small part because of the budget I work with. A forstner bit would certainly have been more precise, but also a lot more expensive. My "shoestring" budget makes a lot of otherwise simple tasks much more difficult and time consuming. Maybe someday I'll be able to throw more money into it. Cheers!
@@JosephCenter I hear you, shoestring budgets make for some interesting inventions/innovations. Do know that my comment was more for others that might be watching and not know any better. Do love what you're doing btw!
Hi Joseph; I'm curious about the decision to build with 12 staves and 10 "accents". If you were to build another, do you think it would be easier to build with 20 staves and put the burl accents in before the staves are glued up into a cylinder? So that it's possible to do the inlays on flat panels instead of a round shell? It would also keep the accents off the stave glue lines. The shell looks absolutely gorgeous by the way, so gorgeous it made me start thinking about building one for myself, which is why I have questions... ; )
Sir, you hit the nail on the head! The buyer sourced the wood, and the only way to get the 6.5" or greater depth that he wanted was to go 12 staves. Like, seriously, there was no other way. But the donor snare he provided for the hardware is a 10-lug. I'm fairly sure that once the hardware is in place, the joints will be barely noticeable. As for putting the inlays on the joints, it doesn't concern me at all. If anything, in fact, I think it will further strengthen the joint, as it increases the amount of gluing surface. Great questions! If you build one yourself, I'd love to see it!
iliketoUSEmybrain017 - the less staves the better. More joints and more glue equals less sound quality and possibly higher chance of joint failure over time.
Hi, I am very much fascinated with your videos, rigs and builds. One question though, what router bit do you use for the inside milling? what direction do you rotate the drum in relation to the spin direction of the router bit? a response would be much appreciated and keep up the great work!!
Hi, Kamal -- I use a straight two-flute bit on the inside, just like I do the outside. I've tried other bits and nothing works better. Of course, there are problems, but the straight bit gives fewer problems than others. The cuts are generally climbing cuts.
@@JosephCenter gotcha, I just found your channel today, and I'm in love, I'm trying to build all my own jigs from scratch as I'm working with a 10 inch diameter drum right now and no router I can find will fit inside that.. any thoughts?
@@williamrooke3213 I plan on doing a full kit, which will include, of course, a 10" tom. You can get right angle attachments for rotary tools. That's what I plan on using.
@@JosephCenter that sounds awesome, when are you going to make this kit? because I'll probably just end up making whatever jig you make for your right angle😂
Dude! Hole saws are for rough carpentry. Do yourself a favor if you do this again, get a forstner bit! When I first started building drums, the big vents were all the rage. I used hole saws and burnt up every vent and had to sand so much that I sanded them out of round. Then I found forstner bits, and even better, STEP bits. You build some pretty drums my man! Just trying to help you speed up the process a little 😉 Your table saw scares the poo outta me lol 😂
Jason Enz, thanks for the feedback as always. I'd have preferred a forstener bit, but the right size and quality was expensive, and I already had to buy the plug cutter. Figured I could make it work, and it did. As for the table saw.... Dude, I am so sick of that thing! Really hoping to scrape together a few hundred bucks to buy a decent shop site saw.
Joseph Center keep checking Craigslist. I got a super sweet deal on a guy that had a decent jet table saw that he barely used and was moving so he just wanted it gone. It was an hour away but worth the trip! Never thought I'd find a deal like that! But they are out there! It also didn't hurt working in a fully functional custom woodworking shop. Definitely didn't take advantage of that as much as I should/could have. I wish you the best of luck on this journey...I'll be following 😉
![How to build a Stave Snare Drum 14x6,5 [Part. 1]](/img/n.gif)
Great meeting you today Joseph!
And you!
Pro-Tip: Use a wire brush on a clogged hole saw while it's spinning, not sandpaper. It's faster and will clean it right out. You are removing a clean-out route on the hole saw, and reducing the cut diameter, when you grind the side of the teeth with sandpaper.
This, if you decide you are not going to use a forstner bit, which would be the better option :)
Indeed! I enjoy looking back on these older videos and see how much I've grown as a woodworker. It will be a long time before I claim to be anything more than a hobbyist. This is no small part because of the budget I work with. A forstner bit would certainly have been more precise, but also a lot more expensive. My "shoestring" budget makes a lot of otherwise simple tasks much more difficult and time consuming. Maybe someday I'll be able to throw more money into it. Cheers!
@@JosephCenter I hear you, shoestring budgets make for some interesting inventions/innovations. Do know that my comment was more for others that might be watching and not know any better. Do love what you're doing btw!
Great build, Joe! Can't wait to hear how it sounds!
That's gorgeous! Keep up the great work.
Love your work, keep it going 👍
Anda menyelesaikan pekerjaan anda dengan baik. Aku menyukainya
Hi Joseph;
I'm curious about the decision to build with 12 staves and 10 "accents". If you were to build another, do you think it would be easier to build with 20 staves and put the burl accents in before the staves are glued up into a cylinder? So that it's possible to do the inlays on flat panels instead of a round shell? It would also keep the accents off the stave glue lines. The shell looks absolutely gorgeous by the way, so gorgeous it made me start thinking about building one for myself, which is why I have questions... ; )
Sir, you hit the nail on the head! The buyer sourced the wood, and the only way to get the 6.5" or greater depth that he wanted was to go 12 staves. Like, seriously, there was no other way. But the donor snare he provided for the hardware is a 10-lug. I'm fairly sure that once the hardware is in place, the joints will be barely noticeable. As for putting the inlays on the joints, it doesn't concern me at all. If anything, in fact, I think it will further strengthen the joint, as it increases the amount of gluing surface.
Great questions! If you build one yourself, I'd love to see it!
iliketoUSEmybrain017 - the less staves the better. More joints and more glue equals less sound quality and possibly higher chance of joint failure over time.
Hi, I am very much fascinated with your videos, rigs and builds. One question though, what router bit do you use for the inside milling? what direction do you rotate the drum in relation to the spin direction of the router bit? a response would be much appreciated and keep up the great work!!
Hi, Kamal -- I use a straight two-flute bit on the inside, just like I do the outside. I've tried other bits and nothing works better. Of course, there are problems, but the straight bit gives fewer problems than others. The cuts are generally climbing cuts.
@@JosephCenter Thanks for the info!! any specific size on the straight two-flute bit for the inside milling? Cheers!!
@@DholToronto I use a 1/2" bit.
Do you have an idea for diy tom-tom mounting system? ;p
anyone know what he put directly on the drum at the very end there?
Mineral spirits. Just cleaning off the dust.
@@JosephCenter gotcha, I just found your channel today, and I'm in love, I'm trying to build all my own jigs from scratch as I'm working with a 10 inch diameter drum right now and no router I can find will fit inside that.. any thoughts?
@@williamrooke3213 I plan on doing a full kit, which will include, of course, a 10" tom. You can get right angle attachments for rotary tools. That's what I plan on using.
@@JosephCenter that sounds awesome, when are you going to make this kit? because I'll probably just end up making whatever jig you make for your right angle😂
Dude! Hole saws are for rough carpentry. Do yourself a favor if you do this again, get a forstner bit!
When I first started building drums, the big vents were all the rage. I used hole saws and burnt up every vent and had to sand so much that I sanded them out of round. Then I found forstner bits, and even better, STEP bits.
You build some pretty drums my man! Just trying to help you speed up the process a little 😉
Your table saw scares the poo outta me lol 😂
Jason Enz, thanks for the feedback as always. I'd have preferred a forstener bit, but the right size and quality was expensive, and I already had to buy the plug cutter. Figured I could make it work, and it did. As for the table saw.... Dude, I am so sick of that thing! Really hoping to scrape together a few hundred bucks to buy a decent shop site saw.
Joseph Center keep checking Craigslist. I got a super sweet deal on a guy that had a decent jet table saw that he barely used and was moving so he just wanted it gone. It was an hour away but worth the trip! Never thought I'd find a deal like that! But they are out there!
It also didn't hurt working in a fully functional custom woodworking shop. Definitely didn't take advantage of that as much as I should/could have.
I wish you the best of luck on this journey...I'll be following 😉
Two words: Brass Brush.
Guaranteed to unclog drill bits on the go, without damaging them. 😊
Good call!
Das wackelt doch schon wieder, du musst als Achse mindestens ein 20mm Rohr nehmen
Und um so mehr Teile du nimmst, desto dünner kannst du diese machen und umso weniger musst du fräsen!!!!
Und Kugellager wären auch nicht verkehrt!!!!