Thanks for the tips, it worked great! I tried to find something like this at the audio shop here but they just advised using a utility knife. I tried that last time I made a solar generator and I didn't like it. This Jokari tool worked like a charm! I was able to get through 2 gauge thick welding wire insulation pretty easily. One extra trip, I had to slightly extend the blade a couple times (albeit over many cuts, 16 to be exact) as time went on (not sure if it was slipping or getting dull), but it was easy to tell when it needed adjusting so not a big deal. Thanks again for the recommendation and tips!
That is a tool the will be in my tool box very soon! It will come in very handy at work. I also just pick up a new to me truck and will be doing the big 3. That stripper will make my life way easier.
Those tools are mainly used for coaxcables when working with network, CCTV, pasagesystems and other low voltage amplications. Never thought of it as a good tool in car audio even if i have worked with coax cables and this tool many times lol! Sometimes all you need is a slap in the face to see what you are missing and that is exactly what you just did with this video mark so thank you haha!
I like using single strand or low thick strand count wire on projects. To help prevent strand loss while stripping the insulation away. Its always a pain stripping heavy gauge wire. I can see how this tool can be beneficial.
As a professional electrician I'd say you want to spin that Jokari around the cable twice, maximum. There is a slight risk of you cutting the wire a bit like with the other tools, even if you've set the blade correctly.
Then you haven't adjusted it correctly, the Jokari doesn't go any deeper than what you adjusted it to. And I know this since it would ruin a fiber cable if it cut too deep. /A fiber technician.
Between this model and the Jokari all-rounder, which one do you prefer for cables. For stripping small gauge wires I have a good stripper, my main concern is removing the insulation from cables easily.
Working in the telco industry, I tried this one day a few years ago wondering if it would work on car audio cable as it does on big telecommunications cable. Never looked back.
Top tip from the Netherlands, Inside is a extra (new) blade 🤫 And try to turn it only 1 of 2 times, sometimes it wants to go forward Turing to much. Ik still have the red and green versions , both 20 to 30 years old
So your using the model # 10160, not the 70000? I ask because sometimes tools don't work that well when your using them at the higher end of their capacities.. For example the 10160 adjusts to 16mm, and my 0 (0/1) guage cable is 15.5mm. Do you think the model 70000 would be optimal for 0 guage, considering its capacity is 4-70mm?
I need more practice because I tried using it and it kept wanting to move to the front of the wire while spinning it and it was also difficult to do that final cutting sweep to the end of the wire straight. I ended up using a razor blade but for the fuse I’m gonna try doing a few things differently
Same here, my father was an electrician at Siemens in Stockholm 30 years ago and was introduced to the Jokari there. Haven't found a better multi core stripper since then
For probably my first 5 years, I had no idea they had any other name than "zero gauge cutters"... Until I needed a new pair and found out their proper name was 'cable cutters'. Lol
Hey Mark, I have a 2013 Nissan Altima and I just bought a high output alternator. I upgraded my power and grounds to the alternator and plan on doing it for the battery. The only problem is that my negative battery cable has a ground sensor on it and was advised by the manufacturer to not add any grounds to the negative terminal or that sensor as the sensor wouldn't see it. I tried it anyway and now my interior lights dim like crazy even if my voltage doesn't move which it never did before. Is there a better way for me to do this or should I remove that negative wire from battery.
Definitely sounds like a grounding issue. Did you replace your engine ground as well? What are the fuse ratings you added to your battery? Did you put the new battery ground in the same spot as the previous one? Or did you make a new location
Marcus Jones No I only added on the ground for the alternator and a wire from the engine back to the battery, which may be the problem. That wire is grounded from a different location that was pre drilled which I sanded down right above a different factory ground wire. I did not put a fuse on the power wire yet which I will do later. Could it be since the computer doesn't see these extra grounds it's causing the interior lights (which are leds) to dim when the bass hits even if the voltage isn't affected.
It's hard to say without being hands on. I doubt it's the computer, because it certainly has more direct ways of telling you than just dimming the lights. I'd say to definitely calculate your total amperage coming from your amps, complete the big 3, and compare to the ratings of your wire and alternator. Also, a good not is that not every piece of metal is a good ground in a car, especially on newer ones, so definitely double check them
Marcus Jones ok thanks for your help on this. I've completed a big 3 in the past and like you said on these newer cars it's hard to find a good grounding point. Would it be a good idea to drill a hole into the subframe and connect my grounds there or would that compromise it from a safety standpoint.
Order done! Mark, need your help with my setup install and box design The system already ordered on black Friday and waiting item to arrive in Egypt How to communicate with you?
hi.. i want to ask something.. if i will be building a solar powered simple car audio system or stereo using a sub and two speakers with 1000w AMP, can i hook a audio capacitor from my solar controller output/load before going to amp?
audio capacitor is not good enough. you need at least a 50 amp hour 12v battery to run that. the capacitor would barely do much. you would have to get a huge 83 farad capacitor bank to have any real effect
Good if it was under $10 imo. I'll stick to my utility knife seems like it will take the same amount of time if you have to adjust the blade everytime for different wire gage.
Typically their blades are not _that_ sharp, and even after sharpening you might run into the issue where the cutter tries to squish the wire and not dig into the insulation. That being said, i've used PVC pipe cutter as a cable stripper on several occasions and it works rather well. But if for whatever reason you don't want to buy a new tool, you can make a stripper out of a piece of wood and a razor blade. Take said piece of wood and trim it to about 3 inches long and about an inch wide. Drill two holes near each end. Now split one end slightly and insert the blade so that it's edge is sticking out into the hole, perpendicular to it. Couple drops of super glue ought to be enough to fix it in place. Now to strip a cable, insert the end into the hole with the blade and use your finder in the other hole to spin the cutter around.
@@CarAudioFabrication excellent! Because I went over kill and bought 30 feet of that size cable for power in Blue and 10 feet of the same size for ground cable. For a 5K system 😅
I’ve seen a lot of aluminum wire products used in *car audio*, and hardly ever in home audio. I’m not sure why there is so much of it in car audio. Aluminum is only about 61% as conductive as copper. If a person does use aluminum wires, but doesn’t know the gauge equivalency between copper and aluminum, and doesn’t use the proper thicker, heavier gauge aluminum wire, there will be higher heat in the wires-which is inefficient. That heat is wasted/lost energy, rather than utilized to produce sound or music. They also pose a greater fire risk- especially in higher power systems. Aluminum wires, because of greater temperature variability and range, loosen more, and faster at each connection. The only advantage I’m aware of is potentially lower cost; but the price difference can be small, and sometimes almost insignificant, especially with the relatively short runs usually used in car audio. It’s almost certain a person could find not only copper, but oxygen free copper wire in bulk, and even as finished products for the same price, or a lower price, than some name brand, finished aluminum products. Aluminum wire is inferior in almost every way, and I wonder why it’s even used actually. Especially, in high-end systems.
The wire in this video is silver tinned OFC. Just because it doesn't look copper doesn't mean it isn't copper. CCA wire exists, but it is mainly only used on budget builds.
You must not be educated on the fact that OFC can be tinned for corrosion resistance making it even more superior than otherwise bare OFC. I'd encourage you to educate yourself before talking poorly about things you don't understand.
![โจทย์โหดเหมือนโกรธเป็ดถีบ [อะไรอยู่บนหัวกูวะ ... EP.4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dqlb7EZ9PGk/mqdefault.jpg)
![โจทย์โหดเหมือนโกรธเป็ดถีบ [อะไรอยู่บนหัวกูวะ ... EP.4]](/img/tr.png)
![fellow fellow - Proud [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9uZF7BlUQPE/mqdefault.jpg)
You are the best!! I am your fan for life! Thanks for providing a complete solution for stripping all types of car audio wires.
Thank you for finding and sharing this tool with us! I will deffinitly be getting it and showing all my auto technician friends!
Thanks for the tips, it worked great! I tried to find something like this at the audio shop here but they just advised using a utility knife. I tried that last time I made a solar generator and I didn't like it. This Jokari tool worked like a charm! I was able to get through 2 gauge thick welding wire insulation pretty easily. One extra trip, I had to slightly extend the blade a couple times (albeit over many cuts, 16 to be exact) as time went on (not sure if it was slipping or getting dull), but it was easy to tell when it needed adjusting so not a big deal. Thanks again for the recommendation and tips!
I got mine and I used it for 2 -12ga in a single sheath. Worked great
Thanks for the info. Just bought one and it seems very well made and designed.
Very cool... had some Amazon credit and just picked one up for 10 bucks! Thanks for the great vids
Tired of using my teeth! Thanks!!!
Thanks for the tool tip!
Sweet! Thanks Mark, that would work excellent on spark plug wires for custom applications also. Cheers, Doug
Just changed my Christmas wish list!!
SOLD - I bought 2 - THIS IS AWESOME
This will be a life saver! I have to 2 gauge wire to strip for my solar install!
These things are gold!
Thank you for introducing awesome item!
Thank you so much for this information.
That is a tool the will be in my tool box very soon! It will come in very handy at work. I also just pick up a new to me truck and will be doing the big 3. That stripper will make my life way easier.
Definitely makes things easier, enjoy the new build!
Is there a way I can contact you to get your opinion on an audio set up fir my truck?
saludos desde mexico city......excelente cortador de wire.......
DUDE!!...THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you for this video because of you I'm gonna buy this tool
Thanks for sharing! this is the same one DIY solar uses and says is the best. I'll pick one up 4 shur.
Those tools are mainly used for coaxcables when working with network, CCTV, pasagesystems and other low voltage amplications. Never thought of it as a good tool in car audio even if i have worked with coax cables and this tool many times lol! Sometimes all you need is a slap in the face to see what you are missing and that is exactly what you just did with this video mark so thank you haha!
For real, I'm still in my van eyeing my strippers now.
Good tip dude
this is awesome
thanks for video
Cool. Like tube cutters, but for wires.
Very cool!
I have the knipex one! The thing works like a charm!
I'm thinking of getting the Knipex one myself!!
@@babydyke416 it’s a great choice!
Good looking on this info!
I like using single strand or low thick strand count wire on projects. To help prevent strand loss while stripping the insulation away. Its always a pain stripping heavy gauge wire. I can see how this tool can be beneficial.
As a professional electrician I'd say you want to spin that Jokari around the cable twice, maximum. There is a slight risk of you cutting the wire a bit like with the other tools, even if you've set the blade correctly.
Then you haven't adjusted it correctly, the Jokari doesn't go any deeper than what you adjusted it to. And I know this since it would ruin a fiber cable if it cut too deep.
/A fiber technician.
Between this model and the Jokari all-rounder, which one do you prefer for cables. For stripping small gauge wires I have a good stripper, my main concern is removing the insulation from cables easily.
Thanks brother....
Yay I have wondered how go do that.
Nice!
In da cart it goes
Working in the telco industry, I tried this one day a few years ago wondering if it would work on car audio cable as it does on big telecommunications cable. Never looked back.
Top tip from the Netherlands,
Inside is a extra (new) blade 🤫
And try to turn it only 1 of 2 times, sometimes it wants to go forward Turing to much.
Ik still have the red and green versions , both 20 to 30 years old
👏👏👏nice
thanks
Curiosity getting the better of me here... Have you tried the one Knipex makes? For that little wire stripper tool?
Well thats in my cart now.
I've found when I make these kind of videos the stock amazon has seems to go quick. Don't miss out!
My girl got this for me for Christmas. Thanks.
Make a video on port volume and cross sectional area for good bass plz
A good ole fashion Pocket knife is all you really need. 😊
So your using the model # 10160, not the 70000?
I ask because sometimes tools don't work that well when your using them at the higher end of their capacities..
For example the 10160 adjusts to 16mm, and my 0 (0/1) guage cable is 15.5mm.
Do you think the model 70000 would be optimal for 0 guage, considering its capacity is 4-70mm?
i just purchased a 10270 not sure what i am getting, i think it opens more, not sure
I need more practice because I tried using it and it kept wanting to move to the front of the wire while spinning it and it was also difficult to do that final cutting sweep to the end of the wire straight. I ended up using a razor blade but for the fuse I’m gonna try doing a few things differently
My father, an electrician, had this type of tool 15-20 years ago. I'm surprised so many people still don't know this thing exists.
Same here, my father was an electrician at Siemens in Stockholm 30 years ago and was introduced to the Jokari there. Haven't found a better multi core stripper since then
For probably my first 5 years, I had no idea they had any other name than "zero gauge cutters"... Until I needed a new pair and found out their proper name was 'cable cutters'. Lol
Co-ax cablers have been using similar tools for years.
I was thinking of getting the knipex one. Have you tried it?
Hahaha too funny, I just asked the same thing!
Would be cool if it had measurements on the blade leveler
How to install tow amplifiers but I have 1 battery can it work
Noice! 😎
Hey Mark, I have a 2013 Nissan Altima and I just bought a high output alternator. I upgraded my power and grounds to the alternator and plan on doing it for the battery. The only problem is that my negative battery cable has a ground sensor on it and was advised by the manufacturer to not add any grounds to the negative terminal or that sensor as the sensor wouldn't see it. I tried it anyway and now my interior lights dim like crazy even if my voltage doesn't move which it never did before. Is there a better way for me to do this or should I remove that negative wire from battery.
Definitely sounds like a grounding issue. Did you replace your engine ground as well? What are the fuse ratings you added to your battery? Did you put the new battery ground in the same spot as the previous one? Or did you make a new location
Marcus Jones No I only added on the ground for the alternator and a wire from the engine back to the battery, which may be the problem. That wire is grounded from a different location that was pre drilled which I sanded down right above a different factory ground wire. I did not put a fuse on the power wire yet which I will do later. Could it be since the computer doesn't see these extra grounds it's causing the interior lights (which are leds) to dim when the bass hits even if the voltage isn't affected.
It's hard to say without being hands on. I doubt it's the computer, because it certainly has more direct ways of telling you than just dimming the lights. I'd say to definitely calculate your total amperage coming from your amps, complete the big 3, and compare to the ratings of your wire and alternator. Also, a good not is that not every piece of metal is a good ground in a car, especially on newer ones, so definitely double check them
Marcus Jones ok thanks for your help on this. I've completed a big 3 in the past and like you said on these newer cars it's hard to find a good grounding point. Would it be a good idea to drill a hole into the subframe and connect my grounds there or would that compromise it from a safety standpoint.
As long as it doesn't damage a crumple zone I don't see an issue. That's usually the best place
You forgot to thank Moe, Larry and Curly.
Can this be used on 16 Gauge?
I had one brilliant for scrap wire I striped so quick it got really hot friction striping 100 s of yards with the same blade
where was this 10 years ago holy crap
They had them, but not many techs knew about them. Mine is all metal though. Have had it forever and it still works great!!
Funny tool
Order done!
Mark, need your help with my setup install and box design
The system already ordered on black Friday and waiting item to arrive in Egypt
How to communicate with you?
For box designs go here: www.caraudiofabrication.com/box-designs
CarAudioFabrication done please check your email
How many sqmm cables cutting this cutter
Did you lose any wires during the Jokari?
Nope, if you do just adjust the cut depth slightly.
That thing looks addictive, like a cherry pipper
What about blade replacements?
hi.. i want to ask something.. if i will be building a solar powered simple car audio system or stereo using a sub and two speakers with 1000w AMP, can i hook a audio capacitor from my solar controller output/load before going to amp?
audio capacitor is not good enough. you need at least a 50 amp hour 12v battery to run that. the capacitor would barely do much. you would have to get a huge 83 farad capacitor bank to have any real effect
@@realflow100 thnx man..
Good if it was under $10 imo. I'll stick to my utility knife seems like it will take the same amount of time if you have to adjust the blade everytime for different wire gage.
Once you get the hang of it it is easy. This doesn't feel like a cheapo tool, well built so definitely worth the price
@@CarAudioFabrication well you are the professional so I'll take your word for it. Thanks for the great content!
what is the difference with this part number 10270 and this one 10160
added to my cart at 4:47
need a bigger one
I bet a mini pipe cutter will work just as well.
Typically their blades are not _that_ sharp, and even after sharpening you might run into the issue where the cutter tries to squish the wire and not dig into the insulation. That being said, i've used PVC pipe cutter as a cable stripper on several occasions and it works rather well.
But if for whatever reason you don't want to buy a new tool, you can make a stripper out of a piece of wood and a razor blade. Take said piece of wood and trim it to about 3 inches long and about an inch wide. Drill two holes near each end. Now split one end slightly and insert the blade so that it's edge is sticking out into the hole, perpendicular to it. Couple drops of super glue ought to be enough to fix it in place. Now to strip a cable, insert the end into the hole with the blade and use your finder in the other hole to spin the cutter around.
Is the blade replaceable?
Yes I added a link to the replacement blades in the video description as well.
When you open The Tool there are spare blade inside it!
Just open screws
what if royal cord ?
But can it cut KnuKonceptz 4/0 Gauge Monster size power cable? 🤔
Yes, I just tried it. I had a piece sitting here.
@@CarAudioFabrication excellent! Because I went over kill and bought 30 feet of that size cable for power in Blue and 10 feet of the same size for ground cable. For a 5K system 😅
@@CarAudioFabrication what about 8/0 wire?
@@riveralley who the hell gonna use 8/0 on a install...
@@AdanmNoreiga uhhhhh I don't know. Steve meade used it I think.
Wire Stripper gang?
I’ve seen a lot of
aluminum wire products
used in *car audio*,
and hardly ever in home audio.
I’m not sure why there is so much of it in car audio.
Aluminum is only about 61%
as conductive as copper.
If a person does use aluminum wires,
but doesn’t know the gauge equivalency
between copper and aluminum,
and doesn’t use the proper thicker, heavier gauge
aluminum wire,
there will be higher heat in the wires-which is inefficient.
That heat is wasted/lost energy,
rather than utilized to produce sound or music.
They also pose a greater fire risk- especially in higher power systems.
Aluminum wires,
because of greater temperature variability and range,
loosen more,
and faster at each connection.
The only advantage I’m aware of is potentially lower cost;
but the price difference can be small,
and sometimes almost insignificant,
especially with the relatively short runs usually used in car audio.
It’s almost certain a person could find not only copper,
but oxygen free copper wire
in bulk,
and even as finished products for the same price, or a lower price,
than some name brand, finished aluminum products.
Aluminum wire is inferior in almost every way,
and I wonder why it’s even used actually.
Especially,
in high-end systems.
The wire in this video is silver tinned OFC. Just because it doesn't look copper doesn't mean it isn't copper. CCA wire exists, but it is mainly only used on budget builds.
The blade rotates so you can strip alone the length of a cable as well.
Which is shown in the video.
Why not just cut an oval in the insulation for the set screw to bite on wire? Possible?
Because you want every bit of wire contacting the top and bottom of the terminal
@@CarAudioFabrication ah, got it.
That wire looks like that CCA shit. OFC for life
You must not be educated on the fact that OFC can be tinned for corrosion resistance making it even more superior than otherwise bare OFC. I'd encourage you to educate yourself before talking poorly about things you don't understand.
Industrial electricians are creaming b themselves seeing this product.
You didn't demonstrate that you can actually strip the wire vertically also
Mine is 4 years old 😂
oooh... I thought that wheel was only for rotating the blade...
its fast
cigarette lighter my best tool for small wires ;)
Always I’m use knife 🔪
First
Und was hat das jetzt mit strippen zu tun???????!!!!!!
too small
Perfect for everything car audio.
4/0 and 8/0 WHY!!!
To Branch off of a distro block
You strip like a girl I’ll just use my Kline’s on 250 hahah
Good for you, I'll be done much sooner than you. Keep wasting your time and not evolving