MC Tire-specialist here: If you need that amount of weight, rotate the tire. The reason is you now have two "heavy spots". Each time such a "heavy spot" hits the road, it "slaps" and at higher speeds, this can cause vibrations. Here in Germany we say the tire "eggs". When you are on the trail and you want to get moving again, don't bother as you are not driving fast enough anyway. But it is advisable to fix the major imbalance by rotating the tire. As as rule of thumb: when you drive on Autobahns/Freeways, try to keep the added weight to 40 grams max. (around 1.5 US-ounces). Large Front wheels (21 inch) are more prone to "tire slap" vibrations than rear wheels.
I agree its called match balancing here where you have zero weights to start and balance the tyre to the rim including any additional accessories ie tyre pressure monitor , fit accessories then see how it rotates , next deflate n rotate tyre on the rim 1 way after marking original location and get it to where it needs the least amount of weight as possible 👍
Thank You for your expertise. I am confused. When you say, "rotate the tire;" what do you mean by this? When putting the tire on the rim, one is supposed to match the yellow dot on the tire with the tire valve. I know some say this doesn't matter about the yellow and red dot. But when you say to rotate the tire; does this mean move the tire on the rim to where to yellow dot won't be lined up with the valve stem? Thank You in advance.
@@justmyself1000 On some tires, the "dot" or marking (some have a small triangle) can mark the heaviest point of a tire. Or the lightest point of a tire. The color can vary. Some tires have no markings or indicators at all (Avon Roadrider MKII for example). The best thing to do is first balance the rim without a tire on it. The valve-stem section does not need to be the lightest or heaviest part of a rim at all. it can vary greatly. So take off the tire, clean the rim and put only the rim on the balancing stand. Take off all weights if any are present. Must be a bare rim. Mark the heaviest part (the rim will rotate downwards to that point time and time again). If the tire-manufacturer clearly states that their "dot" is the heaviest part of their tire, put it 180 degrees opposite to your marking on the rim. Now both "heavy parts are exactly opposite. This is the best possible starting point. With the before mentioned Avon Roadrider MKII, which has no markings at all: figure out the rim's heavy spot as explained, then put on the tire, seat the bead but keep it a bit loos and don't inflate it yet. Use tire-mounting grease to enable the tire to slip/rotate on the rim (might take some force though) and rotate the tire bit by bit while on the balancing stand. At some point, the speed, at which the tires rotates its heaviest spot downwards (let gravity work for you) will decrease. The slower it rotates and swings, the closer you are to the ideal point. At one point, you reach the state where the entire wheel hardly spins anymore. Stop, mark that spot on the rim and start adding wheel-weights, 180 degrees opposite of the "heaviest spot" until nicely balanced.
This makes a lot of sense. If I'm putting new tires on (with tube) should I balance the tire before inflating? That way if I need to rotate the tire, the bead hasn't been set.
@@DikkeBetha that's a great insight, I had just put tyre on the rim then balance, it makes sense to balance the wheel first then adjust for the tyre. Cheers
After I find the heavy spot I rotate heavy spot to 9 or 3 position and add weight opposite side and release. If too much weight the weighted side will rotate toward 6 and if not enough it will rotate toward 12, if tire doesn't move you're good.
The only thing I’d add is to find the heavy spot on the rim without the tire. Mount the tire so the dot on the tire is opposite the heavy spot on the wheel. Often it will make the natural balance about close as possible and it can reduce the amount of weight you have to add. That’s important because if you throw the weights off some how you have may have to ride on an imbalanced tire. The less weight you have to add the better. It’s well worth your time to do the extra step.
Absolutely. Many tires have a colour spot, marking the heaviest part of the tire. If you have the empty wheel pre-balanced you will fit that heaviest spot of the tire to the lightest position of the wheel. Only European tire that doesn't offer this markings are Michelin as far as I know....
I had a significant bounce effect on my front end Serow When I rode on tarmac at 55+ I firstly thought it was suspension lack of oil in the stanchions etc nah it turned out to be simply tyre out of balance Great passing on of knowledge 🙏
One thing that is worth doing is marking the heavy/light spot of the rim (with the valve in) before you mount the tyre. Then match up the heavy/light spot of the tyre to the opposite spot of the rim. The reason for doing so, is valve isn't always the heavy spot depending on the rims.
no idea why this is recommended to me a year later... but I recently used balancing beads which are working great on a sport bike, even at triple digit speeds there is no vibrations just be sure to dump them in before you seat the bead, trying to get them thru the valve is a huge pain
Good advice… I tend to lose my temper when I can’t pick up my bike (which then helps me pick it up) but I’ve never lost my temper doing a repair. Except for that one time when a Very Important Bolt dropped down into the bowels of the plastics on my old sports bike… and now I ride a dual sport…
Have you tried the squat technique? Have your back facing the downed bike, squat down and grab it andthen lift/lean back as the bike comes up. Way easier than lifting while facing the bike.
Most new tires have a dot painted on them. Tires are pre-balanced at the manufacturing stage. The dot (often white or yellow on motorcycle tires) should be aligned with the valve stem. This should help to reduce the amount of weight needed to balance the wheel.
Just did the tires on my streetbike last week with a balancing stand. Just perfect and much less weights as when done at the dealer. Maybe just luck but worked out perfect for me. :-) Axle balancing is a nice addition for in field repairs. Thx bret 😎👍🏻
I like the way you present your advice. Great videos. I appreciate your work. Too many times I find myself loosing patience while performing maintenance and I almost always second guess myself. But once the work is performed, there is no greater pleasure than knowing you accomplished it yourself. Great motivation for tackling the next project. And the more success you have, the easier it is to remember to be patient next time.
Your ability to teach wrench turner is exemplary, would really appreciated 1200GS valve check adjust, Fork seal / hyd fluid replace, rear bearing replace and GS sensor diagnostics using 911. Thanks for all your videos very understandable
Me came from cycling world, i usually put the tire brand mark with the valve together, This is makes things easier for me like when searching for the cause of a flat, and it's just looks aesthetically pleasing.
sorry for off topic question, was afraid if I asked it in a 2 year old video you would never see it .... Track bikes take bends by leaning the bike and the rider. The more the rider hangs off, the less angle the bike must lean and therefore the better part of the tires remain in contact with the surface. In contrast, I see dirt riding instructions saying to lean the bike more, and keep the rider more straight up and down. Pretty much the opposite of a track bike. Why is it not better to keep the tires at a better angle with respect to the dirt by also leaning the body? thanks for your great vids!
How funny to watch your video, Bret - I'm just back from changing the front tyre of my Aprilia Tuono V4. And from balancing it, of course. Cheers from Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
I run tubes, so I balance using tire slime. As the tire wears, the balance will change. Having balancing beads or a viscous fluid to act the same way will be ever changing. Been doing that on my africa twin for 20k miles now, no issues. Even my motoz rallz are glass smooth. I noticed a drastic increase in tire life as well when I was running shinko 804/805s. Tire slime is my go-to. Also, when paired with 5mm tubes, I don't have a whole lot to worry about with small punctures
I have a similar wheel balance machine but I also used a zip tie on one of the arms to help true my spokes. great video. one of those maintenance procedures most like to skip
it also helps to identify the heavy spot on the tire before mounting. Most tires are marked with a red or white dot. align the dot opposite the valve stem.
Yes I was going to do a tire changing lesson again and I always mention that but I did a weak hand change video before and there are a lot of those videos on tire changes.
That's a practical way for conducting a static wheel balancing. The problem is that the wheel is not flat. It has "Starboard and port sides", so I would split the weight, and place each half of the weight on each side of the rim, just to make sure you are not introducing or even worsening a problem known as wheel Shimmy.
I have been using a similar set up home made balancing stand for over 30 years now for balancing wheels at home. I get weird looks from the tyre place when I ask to buy 10 strips of weights as they thing I am balancing my own car wheels. Hint, if you want to try and use less weight, check for the heavy spot on the wheel rim with out the tube and tyre fitted and mark the rim, then align up the yellow dot on the tyre with the heavy spot on the rim, the tyre can even be rotated around the rim till you find the spot where you can use minimal weights.
I remember putting tires on a GT550 and they had a dot that indicated the light point on the tire that should be mounted next to the air valve. Balancing tires rarely required more than a couple weights. The adventure tires I've used haven't had the dot and I seem to need a lot of weights to balance the tire. Wish the tire manufacturers would mark their tires.
Completely agree. I actually think it's a sign of poor quality control when there isn't a dot as they don't even spend a small moment to gauge it. For those of us using dual sports, wheel weights often aren't used as mud catches on them or on the wheels so that lil dot really matters to avoid wheel shake on the highway
@@kingofallworlds As you've noticed some manufacturers don't have a dot showing the light point on the tyre not due to poor quality control but more than likely due to good quality control so it's not needed ? Over the years i've found some tyres with a spot fitted near the valve still need a fair bit of weight to balance them correctly. Try this before fitting a new tyre see how much out of balance your wheel is before fitting the tyre,so it an't just the tyre you need to balance it can also sometimes be the wheel.
I was a big fan of 'BalanceBeads' on my old VeeStrom, but am mostly a dirt biker. Now I just take everything including Enduro bikes with TubLiss system installed to CycleGear for free balancing. Balanced wheels definitely track better in gravel and hard packed but dusted over trails with high speed sweeping turns. Test unbalanced then balanced Tubliss on same high speed sweepers. Difference is shocking, and you'll balance dirt bikes too.
Hello Bret, thanks for this information. It shows that balancing is not rocket science. but what about the rear wheel of your BMW? it does not have an axle? best regards Henry
I'd also like to know Bret's opinion on balance beads. I know from my own experience commuting in California that they work for me in both tube and tubeless situations. I've only been up to maybe 85mph though.
Put you weights on the light spot, then position the weights at the 3 or 9 o'clock position. If it rises, add weight. If it drops, remove weights. Much faster than spinning wheel.
Okay, this might be very silly question: how does it affect the bike? I mean, left-right wobble is perceivable on the handlebar, but does this also show? Could it be dangerous? How much out of balance is unacceptable?
I'd buy a motorcycle tire balancer, but it doesn't seem to also be useful for car tires at all what is better, the clip on weights or the stick on weights?
I always start with the bare rim and find the heaviest spot on the rim befor putting on the tyre. Than when tyre is on, if the heavy point has changed I rotate tyre on the rim until heaviest point is oposite the initial spot on the rim. In other words heavy spot on tyre outweights, ballance havy spot on rim. Then if still not perfect, just a minimum weight needed for the final correction.
If you mount a new tire, it will very likely have a red, white or orange dot on it. This dot marks the lightest point of that specific tire. It was put there by the manufacture. This dot needs to be aligned with the walve. This way you will need less balance weights...
This was super useful. However I learned about a brand called Ride On (thank you Fort9) and they make a tire sealant/ wheel balancing gel like liquid that you can squirt into your tire like slime. It does not stay liquid like slime but it rather becomes a little more hardened so it stays in place along the inside of the tire. But once you squirt in the proper amount into your tire, you just start riding and after 2 to 5 miles the centrifugal force puts the gel into place. So far I've done this with two sets of tires and they felt amazingly balanced. The first set was simply just a preventative measure in the stock tires that came with my bike so in case I got a puncture it would stay more or less sealed. I'm pretty sure it worked because at some point I picked up a nail in the rear tire but I never lost any air. Later on that same bike I changed out the tires to the Dunlop trail mission Max and I didn't even put any wheel weights on. I stripped the old ones off and put in this Ride On tire sealer and after a few miles it was all nice and balanced. I have no complaints. When I pulled off the old tires there was no mess no stickiness no runniness nothing it was actually pretty awesome. For the KTM 390 adventure I needed a total of 15 oz of the stuff. Granted it's not cheap but it is convenient. It doesn't work so well for ceiling tubes though but it does a really good job on tubeless. Honestly with my experience this stuff is going to go into any new tires I mount because if I do pick something up I'm not going to lose air at least inside the middle 3rd of the tire tread. I would be interested to see your take on this stuff.
You can also break down the tire and rotate it on the rim 90% and re balance. Sometimes it won't take as much weight to balance. I took my motoz tires from 3oz to 1oz by doing this..
I have noticed nearly all cast wheels they put the weight on 1 side of the rim near the bead instead of in the center of the rim is there a reason for this as my front factory tyre really thumps the road when on the blacktop and as you said offroad you sorts dont notice out of balance tyres till you get back to the bitumen again
what about handlebar vibrations? I have Transalp 650, have done basic service after buying it ( spark plugs, oil, filters, new tires Metzeler Tourance + balanse in workshop), but i expirience bad vibrations in the handlebar when in gear and after 3000 rpm, especialy when trying to accelerate from lower rpm like 2000 to 5000 it vibrates bad.. after 20 km of ride my hands get numb and i dont like it... Im new, trying to do all the right hand grip and even changed to position of my handlebar slightly backwards + the handbrake and the clutch to feel them proper and have straight hands when riding! Could it be bad carbs syncronisation, could it be something wrong with the clutch or combination of both stuff! I love your channel it helps me big times with all the stuff a newbie can imagine or need!
My tire installer says the weight change is quite small when I put the same tires on. I use Michelin radials. I'm not sure about build qualities or type making a difference.
Interesting video bret....thank you. Just looking into wheel balance on my 2020 Triumph T100 after fitting wifi tyre pressure sensors to my spoked tubed wheels....the sensors fit on the out side on the valve. The sensors weigh 10 grams....I am felling a slight roughness at around 70mph. Just bought a static balance rig like yours.....the weighs in my rim where fitted in the factory when the bike was built. The tyres have never been off or worked on... I my case would you still say remover the weights already fitted to the wheel? Nick in the UK.
Do not forget to degrease the rim before mounting the weights. If I remember well from long ago when changed my own tires, tubed motor tires had a marking that you have to position opposite of the ventil ( do not know the name, the thing you connect to your pump to inflate the tire)
@@rideitalia Sorry, I was not clear, it was more or less meant as a question, do tubless tyres no longer have that mark ? (There is still a valve in the rim)
I'd say first put your rim on the balancer and mark its heaviest spot. The align this mark with the dot on the tire. This should allow for the smallest balancing weight to be used.
MC Tire-specialist here: If you need that amount of weight, rotate the tire. The reason is you now have two "heavy spots". Each time such a "heavy spot" hits the road, it "slaps" and at higher speeds, this can cause vibrations. Here in Germany we say the tire "eggs". When you are on the trail and you want to get moving again, don't bother as you are not driving fast enough anyway. But it is advisable to fix the major imbalance by rotating the tire. As as rule of thumb: when you drive on Autobahns/Freeways, try to keep the added weight to 40 grams max. (around 1.5 US-ounces). Large Front wheels (21 inch) are more prone to "tire slap" vibrations than rear wheels.
I agree its called match balancing here where you have zero weights to start and balance the tyre to the rim including any additional accessories ie tyre pressure monitor , fit accessories then see how it rotates , next deflate n rotate tyre on the rim 1 way after marking original location and get it to where it needs the least amount of weight as possible 👍
Thank You for your expertise. I am confused. When you say, "rotate the tire;" what do you mean by this? When putting the tire on the rim, one is supposed to match the yellow dot on the tire with the tire valve. I know some say this doesn't matter about the yellow and red dot. But when you say to rotate the tire; does this mean move the tire on the rim to where to yellow dot won't be lined up with the valve stem? Thank You in advance.
@@justmyself1000 On some tires, the "dot" or marking (some have a small triangle) can mark the heaviest point of a tire. Or the lightest point of a tire. The color can vary. Some tires have no markings or indicators at all (Avon Roadrider MKII for example). The best thing to do is first balance the rim without a tire on it. The valve-stem section does not need to be the lightest or heaviest part of a rim at all. it can vary greatly. So take off the tire, clean the rim and put only the rim on the balancing stand. Take off all weights if any are present. Must be a bare rim. Mark the heaviest part (the rim will rotate downwards to that point time and time again). If the tire-manufacturer clearly states that their "dot" is the heaviest part of their tire, put it 180 degrees opposite to your marking on the rim. Now both "heavy parts are exactly opposite. This is the best possible starting point. With the before mentioned Avon Roadrider MKII, which has no markings at all: figure out the rim's heavy spot as explained, then put on the tire, seat the bead but keep it a bit loos and don't inflate it yet. Use tire-mounting grease to enable the tire to slip/rotate on the rim (might take some force though) and rotate the tire bit by bit while on the balancing stand. At some point, the speed, at which the tires rotates its heaviest spot downwards (let gravity work for you) will decrease. The slower it rotates and swings, the closer you are to the ideal point. At one point, you reach the state where the entire wheel hardly spins anymore. Stop, mark that spot on the rim and start adding wheel-weights, 180 degrees opposite of the "heaviest spot" until nicely balanced.
This makes a lot of sense. If I'm putting new tires on (with tube) should I balance the tire before inflating? That way if I need to rotate the tire, the bead hasn't been set.
@@DikkeBetha that's a great insight, I had just put tyre on the rim then balance, it makes sense to balance the wheel first then adjust for the tyre. Cheers
After I find the heavy spot I rotate heavy spot to 9 or 3 position and add weight opposite side and release. If too much weight the weighted side will rotate toward 6 and if not enough it will rotate toward 12, if tire doesn't move you're good.
Best way 👍
Nice, I use jack stand to balance my tire
Wow thank you, I use the same way of balancing bike wheels but never thought about the field way :)
The balancing stand is an old tried and true method. In the 70s and 80s, I used one of these, made by Snap-On, in an auto repair shop.
Great video….especially for the trail side balancing.
Thank you for sharing this.
I totally agree
The only thing I’d add is to find the heavy spot on the rim without the tire. Mount the tire so the dot on the tire is opposite the heavy spot on the wheel. Often it will make the natural balance about close as possible and it can reduce the amount of weight you have to add. That’s important because if you throw the weights off some how you have may have to ride on an imbalanced tire. The less weight you have to add the better. It’s well worth your time to do the extra step.
Absolutely. Many tires have a colour spot, marking the heaviest part of the tire. If you have the empty wheel pre-balanced you will fit that heaviest spot of the tire to the lightest position of the wheel. Only European tire that doesn't offer this markings are Michelin as far as I know....
I had a significant bounce effect on my front end Serow
When I rode on tarmac at 55+
I firstly thought it was suspension lack of oil in the stanchions etc nah it turned out to be simply tyre out of balance
Great passing on of knowledge 🙏
Will the suspension feel hard when front wheel is imbalanced??
One thing that is worth doing is marking the heavy/light spot of the rim (with the valve in) before you mount the tyre. Then match up the heavy/light spot of the tyre to the opposite spot of the rim. The reason for doing so, is valve isn't always the heavy spot depending on the rims.
Good to see someone that knows the old quick and dirty way to do it. Thanks for posting this to TH-cam.
Aah yes, patience is key. I think you could do a full vid on patience. Thanks for this one. On spot as always
no idea why this is recommended to me a year later...
but I recently used balancing beads which are working great on a sport bike, even at triple digit speeds there is no vibrations
just be sure to dump them in before you seat the bead, trying to get them thru the valve is a huge pain
Good advice… I tend to lose my temper when I can’t pick up my bike (which then helps me pick it up) but I’ve never lost my temper doing a repair. Except for that one time when a Very Important Bolt dropped down into the bowels of the plastics on my old sports bike… and now I ride a dual sport…
Have you tried the squat technique? Have your back facing the downed bike, squat down and grab it andthen lift/lean back as the bike comes up. Way easier than lifting while facing the bike.
Great Movie very very good
Most new tires have a dot painted on them. Tires are pre-balanced at the manufacturing stage. The dot (often white or yellow on motorcycle tires) should be aligned with the valve stem. This should help to reduce the amount of weight needed to balance the wheel.
Just did the tires on my streetbike last week with a balancing stand. Just perfect and much less weights as when done at the dealer. Maybe just luck but worked out perfect for me. :-)
Axle balancing is a nice addition for in field repairs. Thx bret 😎👍🏻
Very well done.. very useful to know.. Thank you Bret from Italy
I never thought of balancing it on the trail. Love it!
Nice! I just did this for the first time on my own. Still helps
No balance beads?
Thank you so very much for your video it does help and it is really well done have a great day and please, keep up the great job!
I like the way you present your advice. Great videos. I appreciate your work.
Too many times I find myself loosing patience while performing maintenance and I almost always second guess myself.
But once the work is performed, there is no greater pleasure than knowing you accomplished it yourself.
Great motivation for tackling the next project.
And the more success you have, the easier it is to remember to be patient next time.
Your ability to teach wrench turner is exemplary, would really appreciated 1200GS valve check adjust, Fork seal / hyd fluid replace, rear bearing replace and GS sensor diagnostics using 911. Thanks for all your videos very understandable
Me came from cycling world, i usually put the tire brand mark with the valve together,
This is makes things easier for me like when searching for the cause of a flat, and it's just looks aesthetically pleasing.
Nice tutorial Bret! Just had a tire replaced but now I know the technique at least!
That was great to see how balancing works in general! :)
sorry for off topic question, was afraid if I asked it in a 2 year old video you would never see it .... Track bikes take bends by leaning the bike and the rider. The more the rider hangs off, the less angle the bike must lean and therefore the better part of the tires remain in contact with the surface. In contrast, I see dirt riding instructions saying to lean the bike more, and keep the rider more straight up and down. Pretty much the opposite of a track bike. Why is it not better to keep the tires at a better angle with respect to the dirt by also leaning the body? thanks for your great vids!
How funny to watch your video, Bret - I'm just back from changing the front tyre of my Aprilia Tuono V4. And from balancing it, of course.
Cheers from Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
I run tubes, so I balance using tire slime. As the tire wears, the balance will change. Having balancing beads or a viscous fluid to act the same way will be ever changing. Been doing that on my africa twin for 20k miles now, no issues. Even my motoz rallz are glass smooth. I noticed a drastic increase in tire life as well when I was running shinko 804/805s. Tire slime is my go-to. Also, when paired with 5mm tubes, I don't have a whole lot to worry about with small punctures
Absolutely thanks for this post. I also use slime (a competitor) and somehow fretted it might not be kosher. Seems to work well.
I've been balancing my tires for about 12 years now. Got my set up from Marc Parnes. However, I didn't know about the in field technique. Thanks!
Thanks man ! Great video. Super helpful !
Keep it going Bret 🤟🏼🤟🏼🤟🏼
What about balance beads?
I have a similar wheel balance machine but I also used a zip tie on one of the arms to help true my spokes.
great video. one of those maintenance procedures most like to skip
why not internal beads?
it also helps to identify the heavy spot on the tire before mounting. Most tires are marked with a red or white dot. align the dot opposite the valve stem.
Yes I was going to do a tire changing lesson again and I always mention that but I did a weak hand change video before and there are a lot of those videos on tire changes.
@@tsconver really?
@@RayzGarage yes really see updated post
My replies keep getting removed
Thanks for the video, that is great to know, and especially the “in the field” balance.
That's a practical way for conducting a static wheel balancing. The problem is that the wheel is not flat. It has "Starboard and port sides", so I would split the weight, and place each half of the weight on each side of the rim, just to make sure you are not introducing or even worsening a problem known as wheel Shimmy.
Great video as always very educational. Thank you Bret.
I have been using a similar set up home made balancing stand for over 30 years now for balancing wheels at home. I get weird looks from the tyre place when I ask to buy 10 strips of weights as they thing I am balancing my own car wheels. Hint, if you want to try and use less weight, check for the heavy spot on the wheel rim with out the tube and tyre fitted and mark the rim, then align up the yellow dot on the tyre with the heavy spot on the rim, the tyre can even be rotated around the rim till you find the spot where you can use minimal weights.
Great share
Very good video, I learned some valuable techniques. Thanks.
I remember putting tires on a GT550 and they had a dot that indicated the light point on the tire that should be mounted next to the air valve. Balancing tires rarely required more than a couple weights. The adventure tires I've used haven't had the dot and I seem to need a lot of weights to balance the tire. Wish the tire manufacturers would mark their tires.
Completely agree. I actually think it's a sign of poor quality control when there isn't a dot as they don't even spend a small moment to gauge it. For those of us using dual sports, wheel weights often aren't used as mud catches on them or on the wheels so that lil dot really matters to avoid wheel shake on the highway
@@kingofallworlds As you've noticed some manufacturers don't have a dot showing the light point on the tyre not due to poor quality control but more than likely due to good quality control so it's not needed ? Over the years i've found some tyres with a spot fitted near the valve still need a fair bit of weight to balance them correctly.
Try this before fitting a new tyre see how much out of balance your wheel is before fitting the tyre,so it an't just the tyre you need to balance it can also sometimes be the wheel.
Super helpful. Thank you!
My mitas e07 front & rear have a stupid amount of weight on them.
I was a big fan of 'BalanceBeads' on my old VeeStrom, but am mostly a dirt biker. Now I just take everything including Enduro bikes with TubLiss system installed to CycleGear for free balancing. Balanced wheels definitely track better in gravel and hard packed but dusted over trails with high speed sweeping turns. Test unbalanced then balanced Tubliss on same high speed sweepers. Difference is shocking, and you'll balance dirt bikes too.
Good to know thank you sir!
Hello Bret,
thanks for this information. It shows that balancing is not rocket science. but what about the rear wheel of your BMW? it does not have an axle?
best regards
Henry
What is your opinion on balancing beads in the tire (e.g. Counteract) vs weights? Beads are certainly more expensive, but self-balancing once put in.
I was wondering about this as well.
I'd like to know also.
I'd like to know also, but admittedly I'm dubious.
I'd also like to know Bret's opinion on balance beads. I know from my own experience commuting in California that they work for me in both tube and tubeless situations. I've only been up to maybe 85mph though.
As always, a great value.
thanks very much to share your knowledge Bret, your videos changed my ride. keep posting, pleeease!
Miatas 07 dakars. Nice! Good video.
Put you weights on the light spot, then position the weights at the 3 or 9 o'clock position. If it rises, add weight. If it drops, remove weights. Much faster than spinning wheel.
Yep. That's how you do it in the racing paddock.
Thanks again, and I think at that much added - maybe tire need moving
Great explanation.
Yup I’d agree with this method
Very informative liked and subscribed. Keep up the great content. Thank you.
excellent advice at the end
Nice tip using chalk instead of trying to remember the location 👍
Okay, this might be very silly question: how does it affect the bike?
I mean, left-right wobble is perceivable on the handlebar, but does this also show?
Could it be dangerous?
How much out of balance is unacceptable?
How important is "dynamic balancing" on motorcycles i.e. side-to-side balancing (on rear tires only, as those are much wider).
Does it matter to make sure that the axle is level and therefore the tire is perfectly straight up and down?
Thanks thoroughly simple
I'd buy a motorcycle tire balancer, but it doesn't seem to also be useful for car tires at all
what is better, the clip on weights or the stick on weights?
Great video, thanks, Brett.
Good vid dude, thanks! Nice bike collection!
Love it... great easy to follow video Bret... thank you!!
I always start with the bare rim and find the heaviest spot on the rim befor putting on the tyre. Than when tyre is on, if the heavy point has changed I rotate tyre on the rim until heaviest point is oposite the initial spot on the rim. In other words heavy spot on tyre outweights, ballance havy spot on rim. Then if still not perfect, just a minimum weight needed for the final correction.
Interesting thought 🤔
More pearls of experience, well explained and very useful....thanks Brett!
Thank you sir!
Great information! You could totally make a video on some less common more emergency balancing options as well. Like antifreeze/water/ect
Good advice to keep a positive attitude! Thanks!
You are the best
If you mount a new tire, it will very likely have a red, white or orange dot on it. This dot marks the lightest point of that specific tire. It was put there by the manufacture. This dot needs to be aligned with the walve. This way you will need less balance weights...
This was super useful. However I learned about a brand called Ride On (thank you Fort9) and they make a tire sealant/ wheel balancing gel like liquid that you can squirt into your tire like slime. It does not stay liquid like slime but it rather becomes a little more hardened so it stays in place along the inside of the tire. But once you squirt in the proper amount into your tire, you just start riding and after 2 to 5 miles the centrifugal force puts the gel into place. So far I've done this with two sets of tires and they felt amazingly balanced. The first set was simply just a preventative measure in the stock tires that came with my bike so in case I got a puncture it would stay more or less sealed. I'm pretty sure it worked because at some point I picked up a nail in the rear tire but I never lost any air. Later on that same bike I changed out the tires to the Dunlop trail mission Max and I didn't even put any wheel weights on. I stripped the old ones off and put in this Ride On tire sealer and after a few miles it was all nice and balanced. I have no complaints. When I pulled off the old tires there was no mess no stickiness no runniness nothing it was actually pretty awesome. For the KTM 390 adventure I needed a total of 15 oz of the stuff. Granted it's not cheap but it is convenient. It doesn't work so well for ceiling tubes though but it does a really good job on tubeless. Honestly with my experience this stuff is going to go into any new tires I mount because if I do pick something up I'm not going to lose air at least inside the middle 3rd of the tire tread. I would be interested to see your take on this stuff.
Is there a mess inside the rim when you change tires?
@@peteosinga8845 no it stays caked to the tire under the tread. Zero mess at all. It's like a glaze almost.
Hey Bret, any chance for a future video on how to maintain a rim with spokes? …and can bad spokes give a wrong balance reading? Thanks
I like it. Most logical
Maybe it goes without saying, but check and remove any rocks or gravel which may be stuck in the tread before balancing.
Hola..gracias...y la rueda trasera?
Great video. Thank you.
Nice video. But do how you proceed for the rear wheel of the GS ? (no axle)
Back wheel on a gs is a bit more of a challenge with that huge hole. Balance beads are you friend here.
nice nice as always "Eastern European"..........great tips, thnx VDN!
Great video. I'd really like to see how you balance the rear wheel on the BMW.
I use a hub adapter
Whaa?!? A ball cap? C’mon Man!😉
Gotta keep doing something to keep up the chatter 😂. Of course own 7 flat caps but only own one ball cap (from a track program I used to operate)
@@BretTkacs I was surprised not to see a flat cap offered in your merch store 😄
You can also break down the tire and rotate it on the rim 90% and re balance. Sometimes it won't take as much weight to balance. I took my motoz tires from 3oz to 1oz by doing this..
It's clearly an imposter!
I have noticed nearly all cast wheels they put the weight on 1 side of the rim near the bead instead of in the center of the rim is there a reason for this as my front factory tyre really thumps the road when on the blacktop and as you said offroad you sorts dont notice out of balance tyres till you get back to the bitumen again
Thank you ! Does anyone offer Computer Dynamic Balance on motorcycles ?
what about handlebar vibrations? I have Transalp 650, have done basic service after buying it ( spark plugs, oil, filters, new tires Metzeler Tourance + balanse in workshop), but i expirience bad vibrations in the handlebar when in gear and after 3000 rpm, especialy when trying to accelerate from lower rpm like 2000 to 5000 it vibrates bad.. after 20 km of ride my hands get numb and i dont like it... Im new, trying to do all the right hand grip and even changed to position of my handlebar slightly backwards + the handbrake and the clutch to feel them proper and have straight hands when riding! Could it be bad carbs syncronisation, could it be something wrong with the clutch or combination of both stuff! I love your channel it helps me big times with all the stuff a newbie can imagine or need!
My tire installer says the weight change is quite small when I put the same tires on. I use Michelin radials. I'm not sure about build qualities or type making a difference.
Check for out of round? My eo7 front needs a hump sanded down.
Interesting video bret....thank you.
Just looking into wheel balance on my 2020 Triumph T100 after fitting wifi tyre pressure sensors to my spoked tubed wheels....the sensors fit on the out side on the valve.
The sensors weigh 10 grams....I am felling a slight roughness at around 70mph.
Just bought a static balance rig like yours.....the weighs in my rim where fitted in the factory when the bike was built.
The tyres have never been off or worked on...
I my case would you still say remover the weights already fitted to the wheel?
Nick in the UK.
If it isn't balanced with the current weights then always strip the weights and start from zero
good intel
any chance we could get a "how to rescue a drowned bike" on the trail video?
Hey Bret, what's your take on balance beads? Ever use them?
What about the dots on the side of the tire? Knowing about the dots is kind of a big thing when putting tires on the rim and balancing them.
If they have dots... the mitas does not have a balance dot
Do not forget to degrease the rim before mounting the weights.
If I remember well from long ago when changed my own tires, tubed motor tires had a marking that you have to position opposite of the ventil ( do not know the name, the thing you connect to your pump to inflate the tire)
So do tubeless. (Valve, btw) 👍
@@rideitalia Sorry, I was not clear, it was more or less meant as a question, do tubless tyres no longer have that mark ? (There is still a valve in the rim)
@@pa4tim ah ok, yep, the mark is still there
EXCELLENT!
Are you running the TPM sensors? They throw the balance of the wheel off significantly on my GS
Yes I have TPM sensors
I'd say first put your rim on the balancer and mark its heaviest spot. The align this mark with the dot on the tire. This should allow for the smallest balancing weight to be used.
That's really a great instruction video as usually.
However, did you REALLY put 2,5 ounces on (70gram)?
Did you not mean 0,25 ounces?
There is no t at the end of “across”.