The sight of my Hotshot 2 running up the road because the MSC got stuck on full was never fun for sure. I am amazed how small the receivers are these days, so definitely positive progress.
its easier to twist the solder tabs on the motor, so they both point "upwards" in the case of monster beetle, so they guide the wires out of the way of the wheel better.
I've been doing exactly the same job, lately. The new electronics can ALL be fitted under the black cowling if you stick your speed controller to the side of the steering servo. It's an incredibly neat option. I also flipped the metal tray where you put your receiver to give a little extra room in there...
Thanks Larry, that's a great tip regarding flipping the tray over so I will do that. Good spot re the electronics too. I am selling the old Acoms stuff so I was never going to use it, but it's useful to know for the future.
Great to hear it. My advice is to buy something that works and keep it that way before heading down the resto route. Neither of my remaining cars currently work so I haven't been able to have a play around for ages.
Looks like you are on to a winner with that one, any ideas on the new shell, box art or something more unique? We did have a Black foot on a Monster Beetle chassis and it did seem prone to accidents. I think this is why we sold it in the end. We now have a new Monster Beetle, but again, I feel that the chassis does let this down slightly. Either way it was still great fun 👍
I'm planning a Kamtec Sand Scorcher lexan shell, and some re-re decals (assuming they fit) to replicate the box art, but in a robust format. The only trouble is by the time I've done that, bought some paint and new body-mounts it'll be £50 which is what I paid for the whole thing! Still, it's all good fun as you say.
@@MostlyHelpful kamtech make great shells. I got a couple of Lunchbox Shells of them and they did a treat. Places will provide printed decals if you need them, or want to tweak them 👍
Thanks Felsen, I'm glad you liked it. I haven't painted a lexan body in 30 years but I will certainly record it for the video. Back in the day I brush painted but this time I'll be going for the spray painting, but I'm still not sure how to mask out the windows and I don't think the body comes with any templates.
Thanks. I'd love to do the diff upgrade but it's a decent chunk of money and I don't think I'd get the benefit from it for how I will use it. I have a ball diff in my Nissan King Cab and to be honest it does seem to be a bit problematic though.
Interesting. Why not go with a brushless? Also what would be required if i wanted to mod one to also be a crawler? Would i need a gearbox to actually gear down or can it be controlled just with an ESC?
I avoided brushless partly due to wanting to keep costs down and partly as I've no experience of them. As for turning it in to a crawler, I don't know but as with real life cars I live by the mantra of "don't build a car you can buy yourself". Applied to this situation I suspect you would be better off buying a dedicated crawler and then using a Monster Beetle shell on top to get the look.
@@MostlyHelpful Yes, right. Actually I'm just interested in making it slower for my nephew. I understand a crawler is very different altogether and I don't need the torque,
I run a Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC and a Torque Tuned motor. If I had my time again I'd go for a Hobbywing 1060 ESC instead. That's a brushed setup, but if you wanted to go brushless I'd be looking at one of the Hobbywing Combo packs.
Did you replace the two diff bearings? They come in the new kits and 8 would not be enough to replace all the 1150 bearings in a monster beetle ps I don't mean the 850 bearings
Hi, the kit I fitted had 10 bearings, 8 large and 2 small. The 8 large went on all four axles and the 2 small went in the gearbox. So, as far as I'm aware, that's every bushing replaced with a bearing. Meanwhile I've just finished filming the next instalment of the restoration so I'll be uploading it very soon.
@@MostlyHelpful cool will look out for the next installment. There is 12 bearings in the standard car, 2 on each axel which you changed. 2 for the layshaft and a further 2 for the differential. Now in the re re kit you get bearings as standard but as the original is 35 years ago I can't remember if they did or not. The diff bearings are housed in the white plastic carriers you can see externally. I built my 3rd re re monster beetle last week and the set of bearings I had came with 12 but as I use the MIP ball diff 2 are left over and 2 from the kit are also spare which is handy to have 4 spare.
So I checked the build instructions and on the original Monster Beetle the diff bearings are supplied as bearings from Tamiya, noted as SA4 on the build sheet. So there are 8 plastic bushings, 2 bronze bushings and 2 proper bearings. The upgrade kit that I bought was specifically for the original Monster Beetle (58060) so only contained 10 bearings because there are already these two bearings included with the original kit. I didn't know this at the time so it's rather good luck that it's worked out this way!
@@MostlyHelpful gone to a good home 👍 . Good job I will be replacing the pickup rear door panel after those wheelies 🤣🤣 . They do a generic wheelie bar that fits to the gearbox to stop it going as high
Im in my late 30s and can remember mechanical speed controlers and Chrystal radois im glad we've moved on
The sight of my Hotshot 2 running up the road because the MSC got stuck on full was never fun for sure. I am amazed how small the receivers are these days, so definitely positive progress.
its easier to twist the solder tabs on the motor, so they both point "upwards" in the case of monster beetle, so they guide the wires out of the way of the wheel better.
That's a great tip thanks. I've now found a used Monster Beetle shell to replace the Blackfoot one so the final video will be coming very soon.
I've been doing exactly the same job, lately. The new electronics can ALL be fitted under the black cowling if you stick your speed controller to the side of the steering servo. It's an incredibly neat option.
I also flipped the metal tray where you put your receiver to give a little extra room in there...
...probably also worth pointing out, because it was a surprise to me, that old servo plugs won't fit into new electronics.
Thanks Larry, that's a great tip regarding flipping the tray over so I will do that. Good spot re the electronics too. I am selling the old Acoms stuff so I was never going to use it, but it's useful to know for the future.
Super cool videos! I'm looking to get into rc cars soon, have so many ideas lol
Great to hear it. My advice is to buy something that works and keep it that way before heading down the resto route. Neither of my remaining cars currently work so I haven't been able to have a play around for ages.
Looks like you are on to a winner with that one, any ideas on the new shell, box art or something more unique? We did have a Black foot on a Monster Beetle chassis and it did seem prone to accidents. I think this is why we sold it in the end. We now have a new Monster Beetle, but again, I feel that the chassis does let this down slightly. Either way it was still great fun 👍
I'm planning a Kamtec Sand Scorcher lexan shell, and some re-re decals (assuming they fit) to replicate the box art, but in a robust format. The only trouble is by the time I've done that, bought some paint and new body-mounts it'll be £50 which is what I paid for the whole thing! Still, it's all good fun as you say.
@@MostlyHelpful kamtech make great shells. I got a couple of Lunchbox Shells of them and they did a treat. Places will provide printed decals if you need them, or want to tweak them 👍
Great video... I can't wait to see your next video showcasing the Monster Beetle replica lexan body. Will you be showing the painting process as well?
Thanks Felsen, I'm glad you liked it. I haven't painted a lexan body in 30 years but I will certainly record it for the video. Back in the day I brush painted but this time I'll be going for the spray painting, but I'm still not sure how to mask out the windows and I don't think the body comes with any templates.
Now you need to put an MIP super bowl differential in the gear box
Thanks. I'd love to do the diff upgrade but it's a decent chunk of money and I don't think I'd get the benefit from it for how I will use it. I have a ball diff in my Nissan King Cab and to be honest it does seem to be a bit problematic though.
The Nicd is way more better than the NiMh. The correct charging/discharging is the key. I drive only NiCd´s.
Can you even buy new NiCADs anymore? I certainly don't see them for sale in the model shops I use here in the UK
Interesting. Why not go with a brushless?
Also what would be required if i wanted to mod one to also be a crawler? Would i need a gearbox to actually gear down or can it be controlled just with an ESC?
I avoided brushless partly due to wanting to keep costs down and partly as I've no experience of them. As for turning it in to a crawler, I don't know but as with real life cars I live by the mantra of "don't build a car you can buy yourself". Applied to this situation I suspect you would be better off buying a dedicated crawler and then using a Monster Beetle shell on top to get the look.
@@MostlyHelpful Yes, right. Actually I'm just interested in making it slower for my nephew. I understand a crawler is very different altogether and I don't need the torque,
What would be a good esc and motor to put in a 1988 Thunde shot Tamiya.
I run a Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC and a Torque Tuned motor. If I had my time again I'd go for a Hobbywing 1060 ESC instead. That's a brushed setup, but if you wanted to go brushless I'd be looking at one of the Hobbywing Combo packs.
Did you replace the two diff bearings? They come in the new kits and 8 would not be enough to replace all the 1150 bearings in a monster beetle ps I don't mean the 850 bearings
Hi, the kit I fitted had 10 bearings, 8 large and 2 small. The 8 large went on all four axles and the 2 small went in the gearbox. So, as far as I'm aware, that's every bushing replaced with a bearing.
Meanwhile I've just finished filming the next instalment of the restoration so I'll be uploading it very soon.
@@MostlyHelpful cool will look out for the next installment.
There is 12 bearings in the standard car, 2 on each axel which you changed. 2 for the layshaft and a further 2 for the differential. Now in the re re kit you get bearings as standard but as the original is 35 years ago I can't remember if they did or not. The diff bearings are housed in the white plastic carriers you can see externally.
I built my 3rd re re monster beetle last week and the set of bearings I had came with 12 but as I use the MIP ball diff 2 are left over and 2 from the kit are also spare which is handy to have 4 spare.
So I checked the build instructions and on the original Monster Beetle the diff bearings are supplied as bearings from Tamiya, noted as SA4 on the build sheet. So there are 8 plastic bushings, 2 bronze bushings and 2 proper bearings. The upgrade kit that I bought was specifically for the original Monster Beetle (58060) so only contained 10 bearings because there are already these two bearings included with the original kit. I didn't know this at the time so it's rather good luck that it's worked out this way!
If that's a vintage Blackfoot body you'll be able to get some decent money for that don't let anybody rip you off
Thanks, I am going to put it up for sale just as soon as I've sourced the lexan Monster Beetle body.
@@MostlyHelpful gone to a good home 👍 . Good job I will be replacing the pickup rear door panel after those wheelies 🤣🤣 . They do a generic wheelie bar that fits to the gearbox to stop it going as high