Nicely done demonstration. I have made at least a thousand Powerpole crimps in my life, of course using a pneumatic crimper. A couple of comments on 45 amp connectors. Anderson, in their way, kind of did us a dis-service in naming the connectors by amperage. The fact from Anderson is that they are indicating wire size by calling them Amp sizes. All the contacts are rated at 45 amps by Anderson. Look at their charts. The 45 amp contact does not crimp well on much smaller wire unless you keep moving to the smaller die opening on your crimping tool. I suggest using the size contact that fits best. Here is a link to Powerpole connectors. Scroll down to the product description and there is a listing of the wire sizes and the connector to be used. As you see, there is some overlap in wire sizes. A comment about soldering: Don't. Soldering makes the wire brittle and will break when moved round a lot.
I remember the big push on Power Poles oh about 2001. I tried them on a 706mkiig mobile install and had a tremendous issue with rf on my audio. I changed the length of my power lead with absolutely no improvement. Thus I eliminated them and problem solved. I am interested to learn if there have been improvements or better techniques developed since then. I can see advantages in implementing such methods it just didn't work for me. Your commentary on new and different ideas and technology are greatly appreciated so keep up the great work Jason.
I run powerpoles on my I IC-7000 in my truck, which runs into a Rigrunner, and I haven't had issues with noise. I have an IC-706MKIIG also but don't have powerpoles on it.
WOW -- thanks for this how-to for the 45 amp PowerPole contacts. Your little trick of pushing the wings together solves so many questions for me --- thanks for the help !!!!! and the little rules to help -- Right is red; contact slopes down ..... Great Job AAAAAAAAAA++++++++++
Thanks for the clear and concise instruction on how to build the power pole. Red on right flat side up. I was putting one together while I was tired, and thought it looked strange that the black connected to the red and the red to the black. LOL.I did not let the smoke out.
Anderson power poles - a simple convenient answer for connecting and protecting our expensive ham gear to DC power. Thank you for the video Jason. Mike N6IMY
I too use the "bend the wings in" trick on the 45A crimps, though what I have gotten good at is putting them in the crimp and going 1-2 clicks down with the ratchet to hold the crimp and bend the tabs in, and either slip the wire in then, or release the rachet to put the wire in with the labs now bent. Just meant I didn't need another tool. Granted I was usually makings on a dozen or more connectors at a time, and either assembly lining it (one person stripping, another crimping, another putting the housing on) or doing it in batches (strip all the wires, crimp all the connectors, put on all the housings). So not having to switch tools saved time.
I agree it is a pain in the butt the first time. From watching your video I realized that DX Engineering sent me the 45 amp when I thought they were 30 amp connector, so I was actually using 45 amp connector in the 30 amp slot on the crimp tool. No wonder I was having a hard time crimping. Your video straightened me out. Thanks Jason, you did a good job in your presentation……Mark
As someone whose first interaction with Powerpole connectors was in High School for the FIRST Robotics Competition, you CANNOT say it enough. Because these are gender-less connectors and can be keyed in any config, I have had so many instances over the last 10 years where students on the team have reversed the connectors when building the cables and hooked it up without paying attention to the wire & connector colors. This had lead to $1000s in smoked equipment in that time, especially Brushed DC Motor Controllers.
Nicely done. I know that English may not be your primary language, but I did understand your instructions. The metal tab connectors are all rated for the same amount of electric current. The 45 amp connector will fit a larger wire/cable capable of handling that current. The smaller connectors will fit smaller gauge wire. If you put a smaller wire into a larger connector, the fit will not be as good and the connector will flatten out more trying to accommodate the size discrepancy. Thank you.
HOW do you actually connect anderson connectors together???? I bought a 10 pack and it seems I have half of what is needed. What do I connect to get juice from power source to device? ALL videos I have looked at fail to show what to connect to.
That is something I'm wondering about. I know somebody who swears that when he tried power poles that he had significant voltage drops, but he also swears by soldering everything.
@@N9IWJ I certainly am willing to believe that. Many modern connectors deliver much better results with proper crimping than with soldering. Hams love their hand-soldered PL259s but most authoritative sources I've heard from seem to hold that you get much better connections with more modern connections using their recommended crimping tools/techniques. If it works for coax for UHF work I could see how it would also work for power transmission.
Yeah, the crimper tool is worth the money, it makes them much, much easier to make the connectors. I do red on the right, with the metal tongue down (the tongue is the piece that the contact "clicks" into .
Building this family of connectors you pick the 15, 30, and 45A contacts appropriate for your wire size. These contacts all click into the same nylon housings though, and the connectors so built will all connect with each other: 15 to 30, 15 to 45, 30 to 45 and so on...
Don't you know trouble with 45 amp that is for a much bigger wire putting a small wire in it. I would think that the small wire would not crimp good in the hole for 12 or 10 gage wire.
nicely done. I ben using power pole connectors many years . even the big ones and SB ones. I almost always crimp and solder and use some heat shrink. also you can use some 3:1 heat shrink over the whole thing if you forget the black boot or run out. also they go together 90 deg. some power stations are that way . easy just slide apart and slip together the way you want them. when you solder them you can always use the 45 amp ones . use outher crimp tool then solder. I slip heat shrink in wire up to the pin. helps with soldering and flexing .gives some support to connector. 73'
Not all crimper’s work well, I have one crimp tool that when the crimp is made I can not remove the contacts easily, I literally have to take the crimper apart to get the pin out! The other Crimper work very well and it even has different inserts for different crimping needs!
hmmm I disagree with the using 45 amp pins all the time. The size of the pins is designed to fit different size wire, now really how much current goes through them. notice that the connector side of the pins are all the same size and thus the can all carry an equal amount of current. I find that 15 amp pins fit 16 to 22 awg, 30 amp pins fit 12 to 16 awg, and 45 amp pins fit 10 to 12 awg and so on.
You can reduce the connector resistance by soldering the wire conductor to the terminal conductor. It will also make the wire less apt to pulling out of the terminal if you get in a hurry and pull on the wire rather than the connector body. Keep up the great job teaching about ham radio. 73 DE N8LXY
I never cut the end of the rubber boot off... I slit it and do not make the slit too big.... that will make somewhat of a seal around the wires when they are inserted ... The right orientation is red to the right and tongue to the top..just remember...RRTT
For the 18ga wall wort type of wires -- I strip the wire the usual length but fold it back over the outside shield of the wire on the outside of the zip line -- then i use the 30amp connectors which the wires fit into really nicely -- it takes up the space inside the 30 and also still touches the connector -- i have found that sometimes when crimping the 15 amp on small wire like that actually pinches the wire and breaks it ( did that numerous times ) -- just something i discovered de N7JJY
If you struggle putting on the vinyl boot over the Power Poles soak the boot in some boiling water for a minute or so. This makes the vinyl much more pliable and easiere to fit onto the Power Pole paiir.
Hi Jason, great video as usual and nice solution but are they better than using banana plugs as most power supplies on this side of the pond accept banana plugs out of the box? 73
Wish I'd seen this before my first attempt to attach them to the power cable of my IC-705. The sample kit didn't come with instructions. I made a hash of it and had to cut the wires and start over.
Be careful when purchasing Anderson powerpoles style plugs that are off brand. Some will not fit correctly with the actual powerpoles. Ran into this when I purchased some off amazon. I also use a small flat screwdriver to push on the inner plate on connector when pushing the wire in as it makes it easier to do.
I bought some 45amp from Amazon and they were all attached on strip. Each terminal had to be cut off the strip. After cutting some off they didn't look good, had burs on them that didn't fit into the connector body, needed to be filed off. So in the trash they went and reordered some more from different supplier. These were off-brand ones. KN6AAH
Also, it was a good thing that you cut the pre -soldered parts of that wire, because if you had not done that, you would have found it much harder to crimp the pin to the wire with all that solder in the way. I actually broke one of my crimping tools a few years ago, thinking that pre-soldering would be a good idea. NOT.
I like to start with a fresh end on the wire, anyway. Also there was too much bare wire before I cut, so wire would have been exposed if I put the powerpoles on the original end of the wire.
Looks to be basically the same way I do power poles. In choosing the size, I prefer to use the 45 amp on the supply or battery side, and match the wire size, or amperage requirements on the load, or radio side, thinking the same way, the 45 amp on the power side can then power either a matching 45, or the 30, or 15 amp as required.
I match mine to the wire gauge more than the current draw. I don't believe there is enough difference in metallurgy (I wouldn't even think there is a difference) and it's more of a dimensional consideration for the gauge wire being used. The size connectors being used are rated to handle 45 amps, period.
Pretty much spot on. Do not be afraid of using other crimping tools. You may have to tweak the connectors a bit to get them into the Power Pole housing. I am thrifty and just crimp them up as best as I can.
Yes, that is the I do it, as it easier to remember. Unfortunately there are some generic Power Poles that are not branded with the "A" Anderson PP. I guess the Chinese are now making PP.
6:19 is the meat of the install. I will say this video is the reason I go to Powerwerx and just buy cable premade. I need a xanax after watching this. Sorry.
You should tin the wire first, because if you don't it'll corrode over time. Also, if it's tinned you can easily just heat it up after it's crimped and now it's soldered and crimped.
It is generally recommended to use untinned wire with Anderson Powerpole connectors. The design of Anderson Powerpole connectors is optimized for use with bare copper wire, and using untinned wire helps ensure a reliable and secure connection. Tinning refers to the process of coating the wire strands with a thin layer of solder. While tinning can provide some benefits in certain applications, it is not necessary or recommended for use with Anderson Powerpole connectors for several reasons: Crimping Effectiveness: Anderson Powerpole connectors are designed to create a solid mechanical and electrical connection through proper crimping of the wire onto the connector's contact. Tinned wire can make it more difficult to achieve an optimal crimp, as the solder layer can interfere with the crimping process and potentially lead to an unreliable connection. Oxidation and Corrosion: Tinned wire may be more prone to oxidation and corrosion over time, particularly at the junction between the tinned wire and the connector contact. This can compromise the electrical conductivity and long-term reliability of the connection. Strain Relief: Anderson Powerpole connectors provide strain relief by crimping onto the wire insulation, securely holding the wire in place. Tinning the wire can make it more challenging to achieve proper strain relief as the soldered portion can affect the crimping and gripping effectiveness. To ensure the best performance and reliability with Anderson Powerpole connectors, it is recommended to use untinned, bare copper wire and follow the manufacturer's guidelines for proper crimping techniques. This helps ensure a solid and durable electrical connection that maintains the connector's intended functionality.
Anderson powerpoles have become my standard in the shack now. Thanks for the video
Nicely done demonstration. I have made at least a thousand Powerpole crimps in my life, of course using a pneumatic crimper. A couple of comments on 45 amp connectors. Anderson, in their way, kind of did us a dis-service in naming the connectors by amperage. The fact from Anderson is that they are indicating wire size by calling them Amp sizes. All the contacts are rated at 45 amps by Anderson. Look at their charts. The 45 amp contact does not crimp well on much smaller wire unless you keep moving to the smaller die opening on your crimping tool. I suggest using the size contact that fits best.
Here is a link to Powerpole connectors. Scroll down to the product description and there is a listing of the wire sizes and the connector to be used. As you see, there is some overlap in wire sizes.
A comment about soldering: Don't. Soldering makes the wire brittle and will break when moved round a lot.
But if you only solder the tip of the wire to the Anderson. Makes no difference to the other end.
Solid and reliable. It's definitely worth watching these older videos. Still very helpful!
Great to hear
I remember the big push on Power Poles oh about 2001. I tried them on a 706mkiig mobile install and had a tremendous issue with rf on my audio. I changed the length of my power lead with absolutely no improvement. Thus I eliminated them and problem solved. I am interested to learn if there have been improvements or better techniques developed since then. I can see advantages in implementing such methods it just didn't work for me. Your commentary on new and different ideas and technology are greatly appreciated so keep up the great work Jason.
I run powerpoles on my I IC-7000 in my truck, which runs into a Rigrunner, and I haven't had issues with noise. I have an IC-706MKIIG also but don't have powerpoles on it.
I have a 706mk2 in my truck using power pole connectors and have not had any problems.
Jason ,where did you buy the Fuze block from?
WOW -- thanks for this how-to for the 45 amp PowerPole contacts. Your little trick of pushing the wings together solves so many questions for me --- thanks for the help !!!!! and the little rules to help -- Right is red; contact slopes down ..... Great Job AAAAAAAAAA++++++++++
Thanks for the clear and concise instruction on how to build the power pole. Red on right flat side up. I was putting one together while I was tired, and thought it looked strange that the black connected to the red and the red to the black. LOL.I did not let the smoke out.
I’ve been using those connectors for RC applications since the late 80’s. Never had a crimper, always soldered. Need to get a crimper I guess
Anderson power poles - a simple convenient answer for connecting and protecting our expensive ham gear to DC power.
Thank you for the video Jason.
Mike N6IMY
I too use the "bend the wings in" trick on the 45A crimps, though what I have gotten good at is putting them in the crimp and going 1-2 clicks down with the ratchet to hold the crimp and bend the tabs in, and either slip the wire in then, or release the rachet to put the wire in with the labs now bent. Just meant I didn't need another tool. Granted I was usually makings on a dozen or more connectors at a time, and either assembly lining it (one person stripping, another crimping, another putting the housing on) or doing it in batches (strip all the wires, crimp all the connectors, put on all the housings). So not having to switch tools saved time.
I agree it is a pain in the butt the first time. From watching your video I realized that DX Engineering sent me the 45 amp when I thought they were 30 amp connector, so I was actually using 45 amp connector in the 30 amp slot on the crimp tool. No wonder I was having a hard time crimping. Your video straightened me out. Thanks Jason, you did a good job in your presentation……Mark
Awesome
“Red is on the right” for the 40th time. We get it. Lol
As someone whose first interaction with Powerpole connectors was in High School for the FIRST Robotics Competition, you CANNOT say it enough. Because these are gender-less connectors and can be keyed in any config, I have had so many instances over the last 10 years where students on the team have reversed the connectors when building the cables and hooked it up without paying attention to the wire & connector colors. This had lead to $1000s in smoked equipment in that time, especially Brushed DC Motor Controllers.
Did thise "Anderson" connectors work just as good as the brand brand name ones
Nicely done. I know that English may not be your primary language, but I did understand your instructions. The metal tab connectors are all rated for the same amount of electric current. The 45 amp connector will fit a larger wire/cable capable of handling that current. The smaller connectors will fit smaller gauge wire. If you put a smaller wire into a larger connector, the fit will not be as good and the connector will flatten out more trying to accommodate the size discrepancy. Thank you.
He speaks perfect English. ???
😂
Excellent demonstration! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, this is good to now as I look towards getting my first mobile radio.
HOW do you actually connect anderson connectors together???? I bought a 10 pack and it seems I have half of what is needed. What do I connect to get juice from power source to device? ALL videos I have looked at fail to show what to connect to.
Red on the right 👍 man I’m going through the archives today!
For years I soldered them in for a better contact, till I learned it was (usually) a better connection to crimp to bare wire, on the Anderson website
That is something I'm wondering about. I know somebody who swears that when he tried power poles that he had significant voltage drops, but he also swears by soldering everything.
@@RichFreeman ask you get better current flow with bare wire no soldering just crimping
I did not think this was true either but it is
@@N9IWJ I certainly am willing to believe that. Many modern connectors deliver much better results with proper crimping than with soldering. Hams love their hand-soldered PL259s but most authoritative sources I've heard from seem to hold that you get much better connections with more modern connections using their recommended crimping tools/techniques. If it works for coax for UHF work I could see how it would also work for power transmission.
Where did you purchase the boots
Also on Amazon
quicksilver radio is one town over from me! Place is Awesome!
Yes I like that store. They come to our Hamfest in Texas every year also
Oh God, is installation coming soon?
ThanksJason very helpful video
You bet!
How about a link for that second, powered distro box you showed us?....
Link for his review
th-cam.com/video/QG3rUq95UPU/w-d-xo.html
Product link from description of that video
www.buddipole.com/powerplus.html
Nice yellow power pole distribution box
Yeah, the crimper tool is worth the money, it makes them much, much easier to make the connectors.
I do red on the right, with the metal tongue down (the tongue is the piece that the contact "clicks" into .
Yep that is what I was doing, but a different way of saying it.
Hey Jason don’t see the stripper listed looks like a nice one
They're in the kit.com link
Do you know of any videos where they make their own OEM "T" style connectors?
Not that I've seen
Will all sizes plug into all sizes, OR do you need 15 plugged into 15, 30 into 30, or 45 into 45? Thanks!!
Building this family of connectors you pick the 15, 30, and 45A contacts appropriate for your wire size. These contacts all click into the same nylon housings though, and the connectors so built will all connect with each other: 15 to 30, 15 to 45, 30 to 45 and so on...
Don't you know trouble with 45 amp that is for a much bigger wire putting a small wire in it. I would think that the small wire would not crimp good in the hole for 12 or 10 gage wire.
You're right, that could be an issue. I found that is you use the correct silver end pieces, it works much better with 10-12 gauge wire.
Have some of these at work for 4 gauge wire :)
Awesome video. I just purchased the ICOM IC 7300 and was totally confused until I found this video. Thanks Jason!!! Jerome KJ4ACB
So done wanna buy that tool for one time use
Sometimes if you're part of a ham radio club you can ask to borrow one from another member.
This was helpful...thanks!
nicely done. I ben using power pole connectors many years . even the big ones and SB ones. I almost always crimp and solder and use some heat shrink. also you can use some 3:1 heat shrink over the whole thing if you forget the black boot or run out. also they go together 90 deg. some power stations are that way . easy just slide apart and slip together the way you want them. when you solder them you can always use the 45 amp ones . use outher crimp tool then solder. I slip heat shrink in wire up to the pin. helps with soldering and flexing .gives some support to connector. 73'
Not all crimper’s work well, I have one crimp tool that when the crimp is made I can not remove the contacts easily, I literally have to take the crimper apart to get the pin out! The other Crimper work very well and it even has different inserts for different crimping needs!
Yeah I linked the one I use in the description for that reason
hmmm I disagree with the using 45 amp pins all the time. The size of the pins is designed to fit different size wire, now really how much current goes through them. notice that the connector side of the pins are all the same size and thus the can all carry an equal amount of current. I find that 15 amp pins fit 16 to 22 awg, 30 amp pins fit 12 to 16 awg, and 45 amp pins fit 10 to 12 awg and so on.
Well I corrected myself later in the video, saying it depends on wire gauge as to which connectors you use
@@HamRadio2 Yes I did see that after I wrote the note...
You can reduce the connector resistance by soldering the wire conductor to the terminal conductor. It will also make the wire less apt to pulling out of the terminal if you get in a hurry and pull on the wire rather than the connector body. Keep up the great job teaching about ham radio. 73 DE N8LXY
I have done that before, yes.
I never cut the end of the rubber boot off... I slit it and do not make the slit too big....
that will make somewhat of a seal around the wires when they are inserted ... The right orientation is red to the right and tongue to the top..just remember...RRTT
For the 18ga wall wort type of wires -- I strip the wire the usual length but fold it back over the outside shield of the wire on the outside of the zip line -- then i use the 30amp connectors which the wires fit into really nicely -- it takes up the space inside the 30 and also still touches the connector -- i have found that sometimes when crimping the 15 amp on small wire like that actually pinches the wire and breaks it ( did that numerous times ) -- just something i discovered de N7JJY
If you struggle putting on the vinyl boot over the Power Poles soak the boot in some boiling water for a minute or so. This makes the vinyl much more pliable and easiere to fit onto the Power Pole paiir.
That is a good tip!
Hi Jason, great video as usual and nice solution but are they better than using banana plugs as most power supplies on this side of the pond accept banana plugs out of the box? 73
Yes they are. And lots of newer power supplies are coming with power pole connections now too
@@HamRadio2 Thanks Jason appreciate, keep up the good work 😀73
Wish I'd seen this before my first attempt to attach them to the power cable of my IC-705. The sample kit didn't come with instructions. I made a hash of it and had to cut the wires and start over.
A demonstration with better lighting is at W2AEW, David Casler, or at The Smokin Ape.
😡 I hate when they ask you to subscribe before you watch or like the video. What if you suck?😜
That's why I don't do that anymore. This video is 3 years old....
Be careful when purchasing Anderson powerpoles style plugs that are off brand. Some will not fit correctly with the actual powerpoles. Ran into this when I purchased some off amazon. I also use a small flat screwdriver to push on the inner plate on connector when pushing the wire in as it makes it easier to do.
I've run into that once or twice with 1 or 2 connectors out of 20 that don't fit. For the most part they are fine, though.
@@HamRadio2 I had bought a box kit and most wouldnt fit snug and were loose. I just try to spend the little extra and try to get the real ones.
I bought some 45amp from Amazon and they were all attached on strip. Each terminal had to be cut off the strip. After cutting some off they didn't look good, had burs on them that didn't fit into the connector body, needed to be filed off. So in the trash they went and reordered some more from different supplier. These were off-brand ones. KN6AAH
Never had any that came attached to a strip. Being that they came from Amazon, I would have returned those.
Also, it was a good thing that you cut the pre -soldered parts of that wire, because if you had not done that, you would have found it much harder to crimp the pin to the wire with all that solder in the way. I actually broke one of my crimping tools a few years ago, thinking that pre-soldering would be a good idea. NOT.
I like to start with a fresh end on the wire, anyway. Also there was too much bare wire before I cut, so wire would have been exposed if I put the powerpoles on the original end of the wire.
Most regular wire strippers have crimpers on the bottom.
Harris County ARES suggests APP's. And if one uses APP, one can use any power supple with any radio uses 12 to 13.8 V DC.
Looks to be basically the same way I do power poles. In choosing the size, I prefer to use the 45 amp on the supply or battery side, and match the wire size, or amperage requirements on the load, or radio side, thinking the same way, the 45 amp on the power side can then power either a matching 45, or the 30, or 15 amp as required.
I match mine to the wire gauge more than the current draw. I don't believe there is enough difference in metallurgy (I wouldn't even think there is a difference) and it's more of a dimensional consideration for the gauge wire being used. The size connectors being used are rated to handle 45 amps, period.
Polarity is muy importante
Red is to the Right looking from the Rear.
Pretty much spot on. Do not be afraid of using other crimping tools. You may have to tweak the connectors a bit to get them into the Power Pole housing. I am thrifty and just crimp them up as best as I can.
Look for the letter "A" on the end. Put red on the right when the "A" is right side up.
Yes, that is the I do it, as it easier to remember. Unfortunately there are some generic Power Poles that are not branded with the "A" Anderson PP. I guess the Chinese are now making PP.
soldering the pins afterward is okay. Some people will tell you that it is a good idea to solder and others will say not.
Subscribed and Bell'd
Looks really cool but not easy to track down one of those Buddipole POWERplus boxes. MSRP $229 www.buddipole.com/powerplus.html is what I found
That is it. I have a video upcoming on that device too.
6:19 is the meat of the install. I will say this video is the reason I go to Powerwerx and just buy cable premade. I need a xanax after watching this. Sorry.
All radio and accessories need to go to APP's. And APP's need to be on all power supplies and in all cars and trucks.
#POWERPOLETHEWORLD
You should tin the wire first, because if you don't it'll corrode over time. Also, if it's tinned you can easily just heat it up after it's crimped and now it's soldered and crimped.
I've made several changes to my process since posting this video.
It is generally recommended to use untinned wire with Anderson Powerpole connectors. The design of Anderson Powerpole connectors is optimized for use with bare copper wire, and using untinned wire helps ensure a reliable and secure connection.
Tinning refers to the process of coating the wire strands with a thin layer of solder. While tinning can provide some benefits in certain applications, it is not necessary or recommended for use with Anderson Powerpole connectors for several reasons:
Crimping Effectiveness: Anderson Powerpole connectors are designed to create a solid mechanical and electrical connection through proper crimping of the wire onto the connector's contact. Tinned wire can make it more difficult to achieve an optimal crimp, as the solder layer can interfere with the crimping process and potentially lead to an unreliable connection.
Oxidation and Corrosion: Tinned wire may be more prone to oxidation and corrosion over time, particularly at the junction between the tinned wire and the connector contact. This can compromise the electrical conductivity and long-term reliability of the connection.
Strain Relief: Anderson Powerpole connectors provide strain relief by crimping onto the wire insulation, securely holding the wire in place. Tinning the wire can make it more challenging to achieve proper strain relief as the soldered portion can affect the crimping and gripping effectiveness.
To ensure the best performance and reliability with Anderson Powerpole connectors, it is recommended to use untinned, bare copper wire and follow the manufacturer's guidelines for proper crimping techniques. This helps ensure a solid and durable electrical connection that maintains the connector's intended functionality.
Thank you. A good reminder. N0QFT