Making R2-D2 Video Series: - Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: th-cam.com/video/hkkSagTsLXY/w-d-xo.html - Part 1 Making the dome: th-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/w-d-xo.html - Part 2 Painting the dome: th-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/w-d-xo.html - Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: th-cam.com/video/hDR9z1PAJSA/w-d-xo.html - Part 4 Dome Completion: th-cam.com/video/PnjCrLlJtig/w-d-xo.html - Part 5 Mark 3 Body Assembly: th-cam.com/video/m6VXt6VGZ3c/w-d-xo.html - Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: th-cam.com/video/cZ3sVYs7T9I/w-d-xo.html - Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: th-cam.com/video/AmUuZH3UHXg/w-d-xo.html - Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: th-cam.com/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/w-d-xo.html - Part 9 Painting R2-D2: th-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/w-d-xo.html - Part 10 Installing Electronics: th-cam.com/video/bg_tN6HCYN4/w-d-xo.html - Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: th-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/w-d-xo.html
Just love watching your work your finishes an attention to detail is just brilliant …. Not sure I like your copper hands though lol thanks for this video. That build is stunning !!!
Looks fantastic! Next time I use Rub n' Buff I'll try your technique - every time I use it, it seems to take a lot of work and my results have never been as good as yours. It's great to see him come to life!
@Chase Norman - I'm sure it will. I'm a horrible spray painter, but this thing has certainly helped me improve in that department - I still suck at it however 😄
this is a awesome vid glad i come on saw it and clicked ty im new at 3d printing im working on WALL-E so far like you said allot of pla and screw ups but happy with my build so far after WALL-E its r2 life size ty for showing your build and helping us not make mistakes
Wow, I cant wait to get this far. Still printing the body and preparing the dome for the silver paint. I‘ve never used rub‘n‘buff before, but I ordered some and can‘t wait to try it. I want to use clear coat over my silver paint before that, will test that on another piece first.
You have made a fantastic example of the R2 build John, your attention to detail really shines through from your past experience of rc scale builds. Thank you for sharing your journey of the build. knowing what you know now, is there anything you would do different if you was to do a second build. As we all know we are all blind when doing something for the first time. I did read somewhere to get every panel to open its 31 servo's that is a lot of wiring. The current situation is limiting parts, its going to later part of the year before I get to start mine, but from seeing yours I am determine to have a go, Thank you for your videos on the R2 build.
Hi Garry - thanks for the comments. In the final video I hope to have out on May 4th (after the electronic install one that should be out later this week), I plan on going over things I would do different. There really are not many at all. I had a good idea what I wanted & expected out of this project before I started and the build itself was fairly straight forward following along with all of Mr. Baddeley's instructions and the resources that are already out there on the Astromech forum, Printed Droid.com, and the publications by Rob Howdle. Most issues I had are related to my crappy painting skills and how much I dislike sanding. 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun I think your final fit and finish turned out brilliant, fantastic example, there seems to be such a variant on peoples print ideas to wall thickness and infill I am in no rush when my printer finally arrives even if it takes over twelve months to print out, some seem to be in to much of a rush to get finished on the printing having warping and and finish problems. I really appreciate your videos they are always a great learning curve.
Also, folks are using chrome tape on the shoulder flanges. This is a great buildup. Working on my r2 right now, the electronics are going to be a challenge for me.
@cjb405 - It's on the radar, I'm still on the fence. I have a really hard time seeing red and black (they both look black to me from a distance) so the canopy color is the biggest distractor at the moment. Minor & subjective problem all things being equal, but it's definitely something I have to consider.
You are truly a great builder, following you behind by about a month and the tips are really appreciated! Great work! Just a quick question - I see you're using gloss on blue, are you also doing gloss coat over white color?
@Drowiz - I'm clearing the blue parts only; they are the only ones I wanted with a deep gloss finish. In hindsight, having a flat/matt finish on the blue would have been much easier as it hides imperfections instead of magnifying them like gloss does. However... I love the look of the glossy blue 🙂Have fun with your build too 👍
Hey John! In regards to Rub N Buff (RnB)…you mentioned applying silver paint first then applying the RnB. However, what about applying a gloss black coat first, then silver paint, then the RnB? I didn’t know if that was excessive or not.
Awesome build! I'm envious you got it done in such a short time. I've been working off and on with mine for 3+ years now. I'm a bit confused by your math though. You went through 31 spools of filament which to me would be 6 times the cost of all of your paint. Unless paint is a lot more expensive in Canada than filament. :) Very cool though. You've lit a fire under me to make more progress on my build. I've gone through a lot more cans of filler/primer though and I still haven't touched the legs and body. That's what I get for printing at .3mm for everything I guess. lol
I break down final costs in the finished R2 video: th-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/w-d-xo.html As I mention in that video, cost comparisons of R2 builds are completely irrelevant as they vary greatly from country to country - even region to region. After tallying everything up, paint costs for me in the remoteness of the Canadian Rockies ended being the 3rd single highest cost behind electronics (1st) filament (2nd). Yes, spray paint is costly up here - as I joke in that final video - its base ingredient must be unicorn piss.
@@Rchelicopterfun I saw that video. And yes, when I heard your Unicorn piss line I cracked up. Yeah, the cost varies. Sorry if I hit a nerve. I saw the cost on Amazon and balked for filler primer and went shopping. I found it on Walmart for $4.97 a can. I just bought 3 more cans since I've been going through a lot lately. (and 1 can clogged on me) Remoteness: Ah. Yeah, that'd suck on shipping costs and timing. Question: I was curious if you are going to take a stab at building a flying droid next (the Imperial Probe droid has been done but I haven't seen plans for the flying version out though) Or one of the other droids, or the remote control AT-AT on Thingiverse? :) I tried to build a flying D-10 but I didn't get far.
@Chris Hechti - Hit a nerve? Nope, don't know how that came across. 🙂 I just stated the cost of spray paint up here is high. Sandable primer $15 a can. Blue Pearl $22 a can. Rusty-Olium 2X $12 a can. No plans on any droid that flies. Having a full size R2 was a longtime childhood dream and it's the only Astromech droid I have any interest in, at least in terms of spending money & precious time on.
@@Rchelicopterfun Oh wow. Yeah, the blue Pearl was $14 a can for me. The White was $6. th-cam.com/video/LAZP9rmpVd8/w-d-xo.html There is another version. Given your background with RC aircraft I thought it might tickle your fancy. Oh well. :) Great work with the R2! I'm going to use a lot of your tips. And thanks for pointing out the issue with the dome bolts. I over tightened mine and couldn't figure out why it kept cracking for a long time.
Never having used rub and buff once it is on does it rub off? Does it have to be reapplied over time? Amazing work! I am about two months away from starting my build and you have definitely provided allot of great info, thank you.
Hi Ed, I've never used it before either so no idea on longevity? Like any wax, be it floor, furniture or car; I would presume its longevity is directly proportional to the specific conditions it's exposed to. As for it rubbing off, not really noticing much if any of that. From the all the research & reading I did on the R2 builders club, provided you buff it in properly and allow it to cure for several weeks, it's pretty resistant to rubbing off. I'm sure if I took a white buffing cloth to it and rubbed hard enough, there would some transfer showing or if I let people paw at, it might rub off over time, but neither of those occurrences is this R2 unit exposed to. 🙂
Definitely saving all of your videos as I am just starting my R2 project. One thing: in the instruction downloads for Mr. Baddeley, he make reference to R2D2 v2 Centre Foot Guide (retired, use MKIII) but I cannot locate the centre for guide for the MKIII version - were you able to find it, or did you wing it? Thanks!
Sorry, but with the hundreds of files for this project, I don't recall. I also have a block of wood in my center foot due to the fact I'm using rollerblade wheel castors instead of omni-wheels. Perhaps it's a file I didn't even print?
Quick question re: the Silver Leaf R&B - did all of the silver parts get the R&B treatment, or only a handful of parts where it made sense to use the R&B? Thanks!
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for letting me know! I'm just under half way with the printing, and I've just started laying down the silver on the dome and blue on the associated panels
Hi John, i make a R2D2 thanks a lot for your very nice videos its help me to complete the project. I gonna use the omniwheel vex robotics, did you think you can send me the print file for the spacer like you did. Thanks
Hello John, I have been away from stomach for a few years but looking to get back in. I can’t find most of the 3d print. Can you directly me your the legs please.
Okay, I've gotta ask - is the filler/primer getting sanded back to the top of the layer line or are the layer lines sanded out completely before the filler/primer goes on?
Sand as best as possible and then fill & prime. Fully covered in part 1: th-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/w-d-xo.html And part 2: th-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey John.....did you have any issues with the TPU wheels "slipping" on the ground? Meaning.....if you start moving R2 forward, the wheels just spin out before getting traction? I have not yet printed my TPU wheels but see a lot of people having this issue. Wondering what I can do to avoid having that problem when I get to that point.
Just thought of one other thing - it has been almost two years since I programmed my Sabertooth 2x32 motor controller, but I'm sure I recall a power ramp parameter so you can limit initial torque. Not sure what motor controller you're using, but if it's a sabertooth 2x24 or 2x32, look on Dimension Engineering's website for the programming instructions and programming software to find all the fields you can alter. Again, I'm sure there is a power ramp parameter and I wouldn't be surprised if I tweaked that setting but I also have reduced my output limits for the two channels that drive the wheels (to 50%) so the only way I can do burn outs is to turn off the dual rate to those channels and as I said, drive him like a mad-man with full stick commands. Easy to burn out then and smoke the tires 😄 at least on smooth surfaces. On carpet, traction is insane to the point its dangerous how fast the little bugger will accelerate. I rarely run him over 50% dual rates on the drive wheels for that reason.
bravo c est vraiment manifique pouvez vous me donner vos fichier 3D pour que je puis faire la meme choise en france well done it's really magnificent can you give me your 3D files so that I can do the same thing in France
Where did you get the 2 mounting flanges that the omni wheel axle goes into that bolts to the motor frame? I cannot find the files for one for an 8mm shaft, just the omni wheel one. Any help would be great!
Making R2-D2 Video Series:
- Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: th-cam.com/video/hkkSagTsLXY/w-d-xo.html
- Part 1 Making the dome: th-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/w-d-xo.html
- Part 2 Painting the dome: th-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/w-d-xo.html
- Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: th-cam.com/video/hDR9z1PAJSA/w-d-xo.html
- Part 4 Dome Completion: th-cam.com/video/PnjCrLlJtig/w-d-xo.html
- Part 5 Mark 3 Body Assembly: th-cam.com/video/m6VXt6VGZ3c/w-d-xo.html
- Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: th-cam.com/video/cZ3sVYs7T9I/w-d-xo.html
- Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: th-cam.com/video/AmUuZH3UHXg/w-d-xo.html
- Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: th-cam.com/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/w-d-xo.html
- Part 9 Painting R2-D2: th-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/w-d-xo.html
- Part 10 Installing Electronics: th-cam.com/video/bg_tN6HCYN4/w-d-xo.html
- Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: th-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/w-d-xo.html
I like your no nonsense you can do this too attitude. Thank you for all your R2 videos.
Glad you like them 🙂
Just love watching your work your finishes an attention to detail is just brilliant …. Not sure I like your copper hands though lol thanks for this video. That build is stunning !!!
"copper hands"... nice. Sounds like something that snake-oil Copper Fit company would shill on a late night infomercial - haha. 😄
Man I LOVE how you made R2-D2 look so stunningly good.
Thank Ricardo, glad you like how it's turning out 🙂
These videos were amazing and helped immensely. One thing about rub'n'buff is that you want to paint the back black. Will give more of a real metal.
All bits and pieces coming together and it looks great! 👍🏼 Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Thanks for watching Mickael 🙂
Looks fantastic! Next time I use Rub n' Buff I'll try your technique - every time I use it, it seems to take a lot of work and my results have never been as good as yours. It's great to see him come to life!
Thanks Jason - I've been following your progress as well on your R2 build - very nice indeed! 👍🙂
Been following both of your guys builds hope mine turns out near where yours are awesome work.
@Chase Norman - I'm sure it will. I'm a horrible spray painter, but this thing has certainly helped me improve in that department - I still suck at it however 😄
@5:39 Thanks for the suggestion I am going to resin print these greebles, that should help with the lines
Awesome job John. Keep up the excellent work!
Nice blue Danube music
this is a awesome vid glad i come on saw it and clicked ty im new at 3d printing im working on WALL-E so far like you said allot of pla and screw ups but happy with my build so far after WALL-E its r2 life size ty for showing your build and helping us not make mistakes
Very brilliant job John (pun intended)
Looking good , gees you’ve jumped my build. I’ve still stuck on getting the back panel fitting nicely.
Wow, I cant wait to get this far. Still printing the body and preparing the dome for the silver paint. I‘ve never used rub‘n‘buff before, but I ordered some and can‘t wait to try it. I want to use clear coat over my silver paint before that, will test that on another piece first.
Have fun 🙂
You have made a fantastic example of the R2 build John, your attention to detail really shines through from your past experience of rc scale builds. Thank you for sharing your journey of the build.
knowing what you know now, is there anything you would do different if you was to do a second build. As we all know we are all blind when doing something for the first time. I did read somewhere to get every panel to open its 31 servo's that is a lot of wiring. The current situation is limiting parts, its going to later part of the year before I get to start mine, but from seeing yours I am determine to have a go, Thank you for your videos on the R2 build.
Hi Garry - thanks for the comments. In the final video I hope to have out on May 4th (after the electronic install one that should be out later this week), I plan on going over things I would do different. There really are not many at all. I had a good idea what I wanted & expected out of this project before I started and the build itself was fairly straight forward following along with all of Mr. Baddeley's instructions and the resources that are already out there on the Astromech forum, Printed Droid.com, and the publications by Rob Howdle.
Most issues I had are related to my crappy painting skills and how much I dislike sanding. 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun I think your final fit and finish turned out brilliant, fantastic example, there seems to be such a variant on peoples print ideas to wall thickness and infill I am in no rush when my printer finally arrives even if it takes over twelve months to print out, some seem to be in to much of a rush to get finished on the printing having warping and and finish problems. I really appreciate your videos they are always a great learning curve.
Also, folks are using chrome tape on the shoulder flanges. This is a great buildup. Working on my r2 right now, the electronics are going to be a challenge for me.
🙂👍
the hose is what i used on my bobba fett costume r2 looks great
Super
Thanks
Really enjoying this build, on a heli note any plans to review the new xk k110s ? thanks 👍
@cjb405 - It's on the radar, I'm still on the fence. I have a really hard time seeing red and black (they both look black to me from a distance) so the canopy color is the biggest distractor at the moment. Minor & subjective problem all things being equal, but it's definitely something I have to consider.
You are truly a great builder, following you behind by about a month and the tips are really appreciated! Great work!
Just a quick question - I see you're using gloss on blue, are you also doing gloss coat over white color?
@Drowiz - I'm clearing the blue parts only; they are the only ones I wanted with a deep gloss finish. In hindsight, having a flat/matt finish on the blue would have been much easier as it hides imperfections instead of magnifying them like gloss does. However... I love the look of the glossy blue 🙂Have fun with your build too 👍
Hey John! In regards to Rub N Buff (RnB)…you mentioned applying silver paint first then applying the RnB. However, what about applying a gloss black coat first, then silver paint, then the RnB? I didn’t know if that was excessive or not.
Seems excessive and unnessary to me. Smoothness of finish is way more important with R&B applications,at least if you want a metal looking finish.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you!
Awesome build! I'm envious you got it done in such a short time. I've been working off and on with mine for 3+ years now.
I'm a bit confused by your math though. You went through 31 spools of filament which to me would be 6 times the cost of all of your paint. Unless paint is a lot more expensive in Canada than filament. :)
Very cool though. You've lit a fire under me to make more progress on my build. I've gone through a lot more cans of filler/primer though and I still haven't touched the legs and body. That's what I get for printing at .3mm for everything I guess. lol
I break down final costs in the finished R2 video: th-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/w-d-xo.html
As I mention in that video, cost comparisons of R2 builds are completely irrelevant as they vary greatly from country to country - even region to region. After tallying everything up, paint costs for me in the remoteness of the Canadian Rockies ended being the 3rd single highest cost behind electronics (1st) filament (2nd). Yes, spray paint is costly up here - as I joke in that final video - its base ingredient must be unicorn piss.
@@Rchelicopterfun I saw that video. And yes, when I heard your Unicorn piss line I cracked up.
Yeah, the cost varies. Sorry if I hit a nerve. I saw the cost on Amazon and balked for filler primer and went shopping. I found it on Walmart for $4.97 a can. I just bought 3 more cans since I've been going through a lot lately. (and 1 can clogged on me)
Remoteness: Ah. Yeah, that'd suck on shipping costs and timing.
Question: I was curious if you are going to take a stab at building a flying droid next (the Imperial Probe droid has been done but I haven't seen plans for the flying version out though) Or one of the other droids, or the remote control AT-AT on Thingiverse? :)
I tried to build a flying D-10 but I didn't get far.
@Chris Hechti - Hit a nerve? Nope, don't know how that came across. 🙂 I just stated the cost of spray paint up here is high. Sandable primer $15 a can. Blue Pearl $22 a can. Rusty-Olium 2X $12 a can. No plans on any droid that flies. Having a full size R2 was a longtime childhood dream and it's the only Astromech droid I have any interest in, at least in terms of spending money & precious time on.
@@Rchelicopterfun Oh wow. Yeah, the blue Pearl was $14 a can for me. The White was $6.
th-cam.com/video/LAZP9rmpVd8/w-d-xo.html
There is another version. Given your background with RC aircraft I thought it might tickle your fancy. Oh well. :)
Great work with the R2! I'm going to use a lot of your tips. And thanks for pointing out the issue with the dome bolts. I over tightened mine and couldn't figure out why it kept cracking for a long time.
Never having used rub and buff once it is on does it rub off? Does it have to be reapplied over time? Amazing work! I am about two months away from starting my build and you have definitely provided allot of great info, thank you.
Hi Ed, I've never used it before either so no idea on longevity? Like any wax, be it floor, furniture or car; I would presume its longevity is directly proportional to the specific conditions it's exposed to.
As for it rubbing off, not really noticing much if any of that. From the all the research & reading I did on the R2 builders club, provided you buff it in properly and allow it to cure for several weeks, it's pretty resistant to rubbing off. I'm sure if I took a white buffing cloth to it and rubbed hard enough, there would some transfer showing or if I let people paw at, it might rub off over time, but neither of those occurrences is this R2 unit exposed to. 🙂
I love your videos as I am building my R2D2. Are all you VexPro Omni wheels 3.25”?
Yes, the ones in the back feet anyway. I don't use omnis in the front foot (using casters instead). Have fun with your R2 build. 👍
Definitely saving all of your videos as I am just starting my R2 project. One thing: in the instruction downloads for Mr. Baddeley, he make reference to R2D2 v2 Centre Foot Guide (retired, use MKIII) but I cannot locate the centre for guide for the MKIII version - were you able to find it, or did you wing it? Thanks!
Sorry, but with the hundreds of files for this project, I don't recall. I also have a block of wood in my center foot due to the fact I'm using rollerblade wheel castors instead of omni-wheels. Perhaps it's a file I didn't even print?
ok thanks for the quick reply back! I'm sure I'll trip over the MKIII instructions at the end of the project !@@Rchelicopterfun
Hey john do you have the STL files for your version of the Omni wheel adapters spacers etc.
Hi john, have another question for you, did you use omniwhell 3,25 from Vexrobotics for the center foot ? or just printed it ?
Not using omni in center foot - using roller blade castors. Covered in part 8: th-cam.com/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wa-XQii0Wz11kEA5
Quick question re: the Silver Leaf R&B - did all of the silver parts get the R&B treatment, or only a handful of parts where it made sense to use the R&B? Thanks!
I R&B most if not all of the silver parts during the build and afterward. Still had some R&B left over in the tube - a little goes a long way 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for letting me know! I'm just under half way with the printing, and I've just started laying down the silver on the dome and blue on the associated panels
Hi John, i make a R2D2 thanks a lot for your very nice videos its help me to complete the project. I gonna use the omniwheel vex robotics, did you think you can send me the print file for the spacer like you did. Thanks
I didn't save those little wheel spacer files. Made them on Tinkercad in a under a minute so didn't see any value to having them.
@@Rchelicopterfun understand no problem your video is great, thanks for sharing. I made a special Halloween Star Wars theme
🙂👍
Hello John, I have been away from stomach for a few years but looking to get back in. I can’t find most of the 3d print. Can you directly me your the legs please.
Okay, I've gotta ask - is the filler/primer getting sanded back to the top of the layer line or are the layer lines sanded out completely before the filler/primer goes on?
Sand as best as possible and then fill & prime. Fully covered in part 1: th-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/w-d-xo.html
And part 2: th-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/w-d-xo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, will do - thanks for the videos, they are a massive help!!!!
What's the size of that drill bit you used to drill in the dish washer hose?
No idea, I just sized it to the bib so it fit.
Hey John.....did you have any issues with the TPU wheels "slipping" on the ground? Meaning.....if you start moving R2 forward, the wheels just spin out before getting traction? I have not yet printed my TPU wheels but see a lot of people having this issue. Wondering what I can do to avoid having that problem when I get to that point.
Haven't experienced that at all with mine (unless of course I pin the throttle like a mad man).
Just thought of one other thing - it has been almost two years since I programmed my Sabertooth 2x32 motor controller, but I'm sure I recall a power ramp parameter so you can limit initial torque. Not sure what motor controller you're using, but if it's a sabertooth 2x24 or 2x32, look on Dimension Engineering's website for the programming instructions and programming software to find all the fields you can alter.
Again, I'm sure there is a power ramp parameter and I wouldn't be surprised if I tweaked that setting but I also have reduced my output limits for the two channels that drive the wheels (to 50%) so the only way I can do burn outs is to turn off the dual rate to those channels and as I said, drive him like a mad-man with full stick commands.
Easy to burn out then and smoke the tires 😄 at least on smooth surfaces. On carpet, traction is insane to the point its dangerous how fast the little bugger will accelerate. I rarely run him over 50% dual rates on the drive wheels for that reason.
Thanks John. I really appreciate your help and want to thank you for the great tutorial videos.@@Rchelicopterfun
How tall is that body shell
bravo c est vraiment manifique pouvez vous me donner vos fichier 3D pour que je puis faire la meme choise en france
well done it's really magnificent can you give me your 3D files so that I can do the same thing in France
Links in description.
Where did you get the 2 mounting flanges that the omni wheel axle goes into that bolts to the motor frame? I cannot find the files for one for an 8mm shaft, just the omni wheel one. Any help would be great!
I used the hex ones in the Baddeley files and quickly tweaked them in Tinkercad with an 8mm hole centered where the hex bearings used to be.