Wow. I gotta say... Very professional! I used to sell waste oil heater parts. Always wanted to sleeve a guitar cord with that hi temp stuff they use in stoves & ovens to protect the wires from heat/melting... Think I'll give it a go. Thanks & Cheers!
I found that RF wire is quite cheap and fairly small being used to wire radio antennas such as the one in a router and radio control system but your wires looks very fancy! Of course there is no better than the stuff you make yourself.
Hi to Utah from New Zealand. My big sister lives in Colarado and I've flown over Utah a couple of times when visiting. That Utah landscape looks stunning from above I must say, cheers!
Most communication wire has a PVC or similar coating, with a low melting point, and is not "cured" the same way as lead wire and appliance wire - which are typically steam cured at high temperatures. Like the PO heat shrink tubing you're using, as well as cross-linking compounds, POE's, and rubbers.
There's better method than you show to separate the braid from the center conductor on a shielded wire. You don't need to tease apart all the strands of the braided cable. Just poke an opening in the side of the braid about 2 cm or so from the end of the cable, and then hook out the center conductor through the hole.
Thanks for kind comments Len. That tip sounds very logical and simple, probably why I miss d it ha ha. I tend to overcomplicate things but certainly some is always best. I will definitely use that, thanks. Just about finished designing two more amps, push pull, so good times. Cheers!
Nicely presented video. I have the opposite problem however. I can get all sorts of small gauge, shielded hookup wire. I can't find a source for braided shield LOL.
Bonjour je vous suis depuis la France : bonne année d abord et Merci pour votre retour : ou trouver les turet tubes board en France ? Et bonne journée Thierry
Hey there! I’ve also been having trouble finding shielded hookup wire and this is a brilliant idea. Unfortunately, I can’t seem to find any of the 3/32 inch braid you allude to in your video. Would you mind please sharing your source? I tried to look for it on eBay, but all the results I got were for nylon braid or hair braiding products (lol). Thanks!
Hi, I use RS PRO Braided Wire 10 A, 1.9 x 0.6 mm, 25m rolls, made in the UK, part number 358-006. Go to RS-online dot com, and plug in the part number, cheers
Very well presented , very clear video and sound. Excellent resolution. I must ask what sort of camera are you using ? Is it the video mike or an external mike ? thankyou for your clear presentation and delivery. cheers
I'm using a canon 70D camera with a shot gun Rode mic. I believe it is the lens that makes the difference in this instance however. I'm using a 60 year old prime Macro Takumar (preset version 1:1) M42, Japanese made 50mm f4. Even at f4, I rate this lens equal with the legendary Takumar 85mm f1.8, it is that good. If you ever find one, the preset version, grab it with both hands, its a gem!
Can you tell me how to use this shielded cable please?I bought two core shielded cable and soldered the two cores to left and right channels and shield to to ground of my 3.5 mm audio jack but don't know if this is correct.please tell me the correct way to do this.I need to solder a shielded cable from a 3.5mm jack to input put of amplifier.
True, however it melts like cheese and it's very stiff making it prone to breaking when worked too much. Mogami is preferable, however that too, melts very easily. Hence I make my own, cheers.
It can get a bit tricky trying to ground the shield around the tube socket. I think that the other end other wire maybe a better place, near the pot as I assume the cable will be going to the pot or input? Probably best to ground the shield at that end. Thanks for kind words, have a great day, cheers
I have some of RG174 coax cable however it doesn't suit for me. The dielectric insulator is a bit stiff and the melting point can be quite low. I just find it doesn't do what i want it to do and so I end up building my own. Cheers.
Hi Sebastian. I have tried using solid core however solid core does have a tendency to snap once soldered, if you need to move the cable around. I have had it snap too many times and so now I use only stranded wire for the conductor. Cheers
@@sebastianvergara8175 No problem Sebastian. I have finally finished modelling the same amp with a Bass/Mid/treble tone stack. I'll have the plans drawn up in a week or two, and once the chassis turns up in the post I can begin the video build series. Its a very beasty upgrade, noticeably more gain. The 18watt push pull version isnt far away also. Cheers
@@elams1894 Awesome! i built a similar version of the 6w marshall a couple weeks ago, thanks to a friend I managed to add a passive effects loop with a tone knob post preamp. i was wondering if it would be possible to add a separate amplification stage with only one 12au7 to create a clean channel with its own gain control (maybe reduced ratio to avoid distortion) and leave the original 12ax7 stage as the distorded one. Maybe even add some sort of switch to choose between channels. for what i´ve heard the 12au7 brings less distortion. looking forward to the new series!! cheers.
@@sebastianvergara8175 Nice work. Yes it's certainly possible to add a clean channel. I have that topography in this little amp. The crunch channel runs on three triodes (3 gain stages) and the clean channel runs on two triodes (2 gain stages). To work on two tubes, both channels share a triode. The evolution of this amp adds a 12AU7, which provides another gain stage, cathode follower tone stack, and recovery stage. However you can easily run a clean/crunch-2 channel preamp with just two tubes.
What's the point? You can get shielded single conductor litz wire for less than what you'd have to pay for good quality sleeve and heatshrink alone. Even the overpriced Mogami stuff is more cost effective than this.
As I alluded to in the vid, the insulation melts veryveasily on most bought cable, esp Mogami unfortunately. Also the insulation is very thick on most too. I haven't seen any that suits what I need, hence I make my own. Cheers.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow. I gotta say... Very professional! I used to sell waste oil heater parts. Always wanted to sleeve a guitar cord with that hi temp stuff they use in stoves & ovens to protect the wires from heat/melting... Think I'll give it a go. Thanks & Cheers!
Thanks Full Wave! Really appreciate it!
I found that RF wire is quite cheap and fairly small being used to wire radio antennas such as the one in a router and radio control system but your wires looks very fancy! Of course there is no better than the stuff you make yourself.
Nice! I didn't know they sold braid without a center wire.
Very nice content and loads of info... Thank you for posting! And really diggin the turret art works! Cheers from SLC Utah!
Hi to Utah from New Zealand. My big sister lives in Colarado and I've flown over Utah a couple of times when visiting. That Utah landscape looks stunning from above I must say, cheers!
There is maybe only 1 or 2 places online that have wire like this but I’m glad I can just make
My Own
Thank you ! Only a couple videos in and I've learned many new things.
Nice job on that wire, I always Injoy watching and learning from your videos 👍
Most communication wire has a PVC or similar coating, with a low melting point, and is not "cured" the same way as lead wire and appliance wire - which are typically steam cured at high temperatures. Like the PO heat shrink tubing you're using, as well as cross-linking compounds, POE's, and rubbers.
Thanks for sharing... Looks better than factory
Thanks PK!!
You are a real inspiration! Thank you!
There's better method than you show to separate the braid from the center conductor on a shielded wire. You don't need to tease apart all the strands of the braided cable. Just poke an opening in the side of the braid about 2 cm or so from the end of the cable, and then hook out the center conductor through the hole.
Thanks for kind comments Len. That tip sounds very logical and simple, probably why I miss d it ha ha. I tend to overcomplicate things but certainly some is always best. I will definitely use that, thanks. Just about finished designing two more amps, push pull, so good times. Cheers!
Nicely presented video. I have the opposite problem however. I can get all sorts of small gauge, shielded hookup wire. I can't find a source for braided shield LOL.
Great video, not too far off from coax.
Cheers, really appreciate it!
Bonjour je vous suis depuis la France : bonne année d abord et Merci pour votre retour : ou trouver les turet tubes board en France ? Et bonne journée Thierry
Hey there! I’ve also been having trouble finding shielded hookup wire and this is a brilliant idea. Unfortunately, I can’t seem to find any of the 3/32 inch braid you allude to in your video. Would you mind please sharing your source? I tried to look for it on eBay, but all the results I got were for nylon braid or hair braiding products (lol). Thanks!
Hi, I use RS PRO Braided Wire 10 A, 1.9 x 0.6 mm, 25m rolls, made in the UK, part number 358-006. Go to RS-online dot com, and plug in the part number, cheers
welcome back!
Very well presented , very clear video and sound. Excellent resolution. I must ask what sort of camera are you using ? Is it the video mike or an external mike ? thankyou for your clear presentation and delivery. cheers
I'm using a canon 70D camera with a shot gun Rode mic. I believe it is the lens that makes the difference in this instance however. I'm using a 60 year old prime Macro Takumar (preset version 1:1) M42, Japanese made 50mm f4. Even at f4, I rate this lens equal with the legendary Takumar 85mm f1.8, it is that good. If you ever find one, the preset version, grab it with both hands, its a gem!
elams1894 pourquoi ne pas acheter une mine de cuivre et faire soi-même sa filerie???????!!!!!!!!!!!!!
elams1894 quels avantages ???????!!!
Great idea, thank you.😀
Subscribed!
Thanks John!!
Can you tell me how to use this shielded cable please?I bought two core shielded cable and soldered the two cores to left and right channels and shield to to ground of my 3.5 mm audio jack but don't know if this is correct.please tell me the correct way to do this.I need to solder a shielded cable from a 3.5mm jack to input put of amplifier.
Good
Rg174. Available at internet retailers everywhere. Nice vids thou.
True, however it melts like cheese and it's very stiff making it prone to breaking when worked too much. Mogami is preferable, however that too, melts very easily. Hence I make my own, cheers.
I have to replace a ribbon cable from tube socket on my blues junior, great video just what I needed. What do you suggest grounding the shield to?
It can get a bit tricky trying to ground the shield around the tube socket. I think that the other end other wire maybe a better place, near the pot as I assume the cable will be going to the pot or input? Probably best to ground the shield at that end. Thanks for kind words, have a great day, cheers
Would Mouser Electronics have it??
Wow nice! thanks!
You can't find RG174 or similar?
I have some of RG174 coax cable however it doesn't suit for me. The dielectric insulator is a bit stiff and the melting point can be quite low. I just find it doesn't do what i want it to do and so I end up building my own. Cheers.
great!! thanks!!
thanks a lot
Hi Jeff, is it possible or even a good idea to do the same using solid core?
have a good day!
Hi Sebastian. I have tried using solid core however solid core does have a tendency to snap once soldered, if you need to move the cable around. I have had it snap too many times and so now I use only stranded wire for the conductor. Cheers
@@elams1894 I'll keep that in mind, thanks a lot!
Looking forward to future videos man, found great inspiration in the tube amp series!
@@sebastianvergara8175 No problem Sebastian. I have finally finished modelling the same amp with a Bass/Mid/treble tone stack. I'll have the plans drawn up in a week or two, and once the chassis turns up in the post I can begin the video build series. Its a very beasty upgrade, noticeably more gain. The 18watt push pull version isnt far away also. Cheers
@@elams1894 Awesome! i built a similar version of the 6w marshall a couple weeks ago, thanks to a friend I managed to add a passive effects loop with a tone knob post preamp.
i was wondering if it would be possible to add a separate amplification stage with only one 12au7 to create a clean channel with its own gain control (maybe reduced ratio to avoid distortion) and leave the original 12ax7 stage as the distorded one.
Maybe even add some sort of switch to choose between channels.
for what i´ve heard the 12au7 brings less distortion.
looking forward to the new series!! cheers.
@@sebastianvergara8175 Nice work. Yes it's certainly possible to add a clean channel. I have that topography in this little amp. The crunch channel runs on three triodes (3 gain stages) and the clean channel runs on two triodes (2 gain stages). To work on two tubes, both channels share a triode. The evolution of this amp adds a 12AU7, which provides another gain stage, cathode follower tone stack, and recovery stage. However you can easily run a clean/crunch-2 channel preamp with just two tubes.
Awesome
What diameter does it end up being?
The cable that I make ends up being just over 2mm. Cheers
I "harvest" shielded wire from junk computer towers. Good quality wire for free and plenty of it.
Thats the way, I do the same, good stuff!
home audio play
What's the point? You can get shielded single conductor litz wire for less than what you'd have to pay for good quality sleeve and heatshrink alone.
Even the overpriced Mogami stuff is more cost effective than this.
As I alluded to in the vid, the insulation melts veryveasily on most bought cable, esp Mogami unfortunately. Also the insulation is very thick on most too. I haven't seen any that suits what I need, hence I make my own. Cheers.
Awesome
Thank you!