2015 Ford Transit 350 - She failed us big at a Huge Wedding!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Wife had a pretty big wedding set up, one on friday and one on sunday. We managed on the sunday wedding because it was smaller, but the friday one was huge and lucky for us the van got to the wedding location and failed at the spot after everything was done and set up. Cant imagine what craziness it would be like if the van failed somewhere on the way to the wedding waaaaaa lol ... So it was time to try to figure out the problem and fix her up. Good thing the Ford was parked on a hill if you know what i mean hahaha
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Project Expenses:
2015 Transit 350 win bid - $9,750
Auction Buyer fee - $775
Gas towing cost - $500
2015 Transit Parts Van - $5,850
2015 Transit Parts Van Sold - $4150
Cut out Corner section - $500
Radiator Support - $200
Air Intake - $150
Power steering reservoir - $50
Power steering fluids x 5 Flush - $60
Frame shop corner repair - $1,100
Alignment - $60
Windshield - $300
Computer and Fuse box - $200
Door for Parts van - $250
Fender for Parts Van - $100
Hood for Parts Van - $200
Headlight for Parts Van - $250
Current Total: $16,145
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The notorious neutral safety start switch on the column OR starter relay
So far no issues, if it returns I’ll give that test
Or starter & or solenoid as well
Dont know if they do in Cali. but here most auto parts stores have universal code readers they will let you borrow, with a deposit.If the vehicle can be driven and taken to the store location, they will do it for you at no charge.
I scanned it and got zero codes I might buy one of those Bluetooth obd scanner things
Nick love your videos. The throttle body would not cause a no crank issue. You could remove the throttle body completely and the engine would still crank. Still an issue somewhere that may not present itself for awhile. The dually fender is definitely clear coat peeling. They used base/clear coat even in the early 90's.
For now the new throttle body with sensor fixed the issue, let’s hope the problem doesn’t return if it does I’ll update with a new vid, it’s just a weird issue. Might get it scanned at dealer when I get a chance to see if they catch anything. The dually fender is def not a clear coat. I tried removing some and it’s like a film
@@FixItNick parts houses in Okla. Will Ck. The Code for you. They should do it there too !!!
If engine light didn't come on, there probably won't be any codes.
j jones no modern MOTOR can be started with the throttle body removed. The unit is connected to the ECM. Unless you jerry rig it.
Buddy re-read what I wrote! I said CRANK not start. Sure it won't start but it will CRANK. Thus he throttle body did not cause his NO CRANK issue. It could cause a NO Start issue but not a NO CRANK issue.
Good work for the Ford but I'm excited about the f150 more and wait for the next one coming ... Greetings 😁😁
F350 yea? I agree I’m super excited about f350 as well just gotta take care of a few things first
FixItNick Sorry I mean the F 350😂
The common name for it is ETV ELECTRONIC THROTTLE VALVE.when it goes, you get a no start situation. Should have sent a code
My code reader said couldn’t connect to vehicle when had no start issue, so weird
I believe neither one of those parts was the culprit (Parts still worked!) I would have whacked the starter first. I believe that's probably the culprit. Starters do this when they're on their way out. If it happens again lightly tap the starter with a hammer or anything hard. If it starts right up you know it's the starter for sure! Good luck!!!
I’ll stand by for problem to return lol
@@FixItNick Was just stating the obvious. You took the "bad" part from your van and put it in ur other van and it worked... Then put one of them in the van that wouldn't start and it started so obviously that wasn't the problem!?! Oh yeah, let's not forget the wrong throttle body that you bought Just for kicks!!! Just know this, before you turn your nose up again at bumping a starter. I've been doing it for years and in situations like yours,90% of the time it worked!!So just how long have you been calling yourself fix it Nick!?! Somehow it just doesn't fit you!?!
jack Macer you seem triggered easy, I said I’ll wait for problem to return, as of now it’s fixed
@@FixItNick apparently I do, lol... Obviously I took it the wrong way. Sorry for being a dick... Take care
Maybe a plastic wrapp for the fender protection..!
Yea that’s what I’m thinking more and more
Try using a pressure washer on the rear fenders
Yea that’s a good idea, after install them
Use paint stripper to take the paint of dualy
Why would I do that?? Lol
So that what was keep it from running did u find 2 of them
One was from and one bought
@@FixItNick ok cool and yes they had put protective coating on the on the Dooleys they don't get cracked and chipped
They're prone to starter motor failure
Yes I heard about a few with throttle body issue for some reason
That's Fords for ya
All cars suck lol
Didn't know the Transit was in the US..
Yes tons of them here
That's a surprise. Great vans, on the whole, except yours maybe! Liked
Gareth Ifan haha I heard it’s a common problem with these years for some reason
Ford is trash. Ive owned 2 Ford's and both had transmission problems. Thousands of dollars spent on bad transmissions. NEVER AGAIN...
Yup but all cars suck
Is it looks like Plasti Dip on the panel
It’s something weird but it’s not factory clear coat that’s for sure
Would you sell the wrecked van for
$3000
I’m hoping to get 3500 or more, it’s at auction now see my recent vid
@@FixItNick can do $3500 its still drivable
First and first thumbs down too😂
So it was you !!! Lol
Haha nah I was the first thumbs up
I love your videos man keep it up hard work..
Thx bro appreciate it
I have a 19 year old ford with clear coating that's peeling just like that
A throttle body would not cause a no crank situation. It may cause a crank but no start situation, or high if ldle, or start an stall situation or start an no acceleration situation, you can buy a blue tooth scan tool to work with a app called torque or most obd2 apps like at the TPS pid it should say 0 when no movement of accelerator pedal an should be a steady smooth movement increasing to 100 percent from no throttle to wide open throttle, can be tested with key on engine off, also most throttle bodies with motors on them have to be relearned with ECM to calibrate them.
There were a few transit problems I found online with no crank no start and they took to dealer and they replaced their full throttle body with the sensor to fix the issue, I’m not sure it’s so weird
Yep it may arise again when it happens again, I hope you find the root cause, because even a dealer is a parts changer lol you can get a ford ids scan adapter on Amazon comes with free software same as ford, you will need an Intel based windows 7 laptop to use it I beleive I'll post a link
Here is the vxdiag for ford a.co/d/bcth8ib
Also check this out lol th-cam.com/video/KxzC7vOThps/w-d-xo.html
@@FixItNick also from a ford forum for 2015 ford transit Remove key, exit vehicle and lock doors. Shut door. Open lock manually with key. Should start now. I found it's an anit theft issue., FixItNick, I beleive you still have a current issue, it is just intermittent, let me know what you find out, wiggle that key and try to duplicate the issue
In my experience I would go for the starter first. I don't know how a throttle body can give you a "no crank" but who knows, I'm glad it's back in business
Yea it’s weird to me also, maybe that chip on the throttle had bad connection or who knows. Saw some in forums took to dealer and they replaced complete throttle body and it fixed it, so I did sane from parts van and it fixed it then found local guy on eBay was selling new one for $50 for a mustang lol
That is definitely clear coating that's peeling off
I don't think a throttle body would keep it from cranking over, I would thing maybe a safety switch, like it has to be in park or neutral for starter to work, or bad connection on starter. Maybe even the ignition switch or starter button,which ever it has to engage starter.
Yes I know, and I tried everything, but as soon as removed throttle body sensor it starts working so maybe bad connection to sensor or I donno it’s weird to me too
The throttle body electronics could of been working intermittently
Yes possible, will maybe get one of those Bluetooth scanner things to see if can scan deeper cuz no codes
@@FixItNick blue driver is one of them
I have made a few videos about the transit issues. Hate in the comments followed
I’m hoping this issue doesn’t return lol
I have T-Mobile and they have a plug in syncup drive that tracks your car, tells you any codes that may pop up. They gave us ours for free !!! No need to worry while driving let's you know in Real Time.
First time hearing that
Your looking for a wrong culprit, no crank no click it means starter or electrical issue it could have been bad grounding or the lugs use is loosening, if symptoms sometimes work sometimes no, it means electrical issue
Yea I donno man, keep waiting for it to return, I’ll update when it returns, still feel iffy about that being the fix to the problem lol
Code readers are cheap and connect to cell phones
Yea I was get one of those see if helps
Wow that's nuts
Great video I see you subscribe to jc smith projects as do I that little screw gun you got there is a good one I have the same one, my wife took it to do her projects around the house lol
That little gun is so convenient for smaller jobs. JC won one of my tailgate assist shock at 20k sub giveaways, that was exciting lol how u know I’m subbed to him?
@@FixItNick I saw one of your replies it's funny cause I was going to mention him to you when you were having issues with the f350 yes that little screw gun is great
Dude, how would a throttle body give you a "no-crank" you stated? Have you checked the muffler bearings?
Haha well it’s good now with no issues, so far found 2 throttle body replacements with dealers with same issues.... if it breaks again we will look for he problem somewhere else, meanwhile we run her
I'd have to go back and look, but when you were trying to get the van off the trailer at the frame/body shop. You had a rather ugly similar no-crank issue that had you bring the van back home. Didn't that too also mysteriously correct itself. (Coincidentally ....rain association...?)
Sorry to tell you but you didn’t fix it by changing the drive by wire throttle body.... it was co incidence . I would t go far with it it’s going to strand you again .
I’m hoping that fixed it because of other having same issue and dealer fixed with throttle body with sensor replace, now I can only hope. So far no issues, will update if anything happens lol
You really put together a nicely done vid. I know you must spend considerable time in editing with those great camera angles and nice cuts. It's very clear and concise. And an annoying thing some YTers do is lay down heavy beats on top of the narration; I really like the way you adjusted the volume so we can hear you. I have another random question: are those special gloves that mechanics use? What's the brand and where do you find them? Thanks again for showing your process.
Thank you really appreciate it, I use these gloves and love them, Microflex Midknight. amzn.to/2y6nSce
That’s correct modern vehicles. Who would’ve thought that a connection to the the throttle body or the part itself would keep the engine from turning over or anything. At least it turned to be some what easy imagine what the dealer would’ve charged to fix that, after a lengthy diagnostic of course to suck more blood out of you.
I agree, I sure hope it wasn’t something else that will pop up
Nice. Just 1 question, shouldn't you have cleaned the butterfly/throttle plate and electrical contacts of the original 1 first before replacing it?
Well I replaced it with a new one, no need to clean it
Nicely done, love the DIY spirit, great way to save $ and time. Did work on my 1996 F250 and saved $ as well. Good job diagnosing and getting back on road...
Thank you bro :)
have used diy coatings on equipment that don't have a long lifetime. Used for stone chip, chemical, abrasion protection.
You are thinking film or sprayed ?
no crank no start... doubt that its the throttle... sounds more electronics..... or starter relay....etc... sorry for the loss of being on time... its luck
Thanks bro, got it fixed tho so we see if problem returns again
That's clear coat peeling
Well it’s not factory clear coat that’s for sure
@@FixItNick what makes you think that all paint has clear coating
Antonio Claudio Michael no I’m saying he pealing is not the factory clear coat
@@FixItNick what makes you think it's not factory
It certainly sounds like the issue with the Transit may have been the electrical connection to the throttle body with it running with the unit from the rolled van and the rolled van running with the original part from your wife's van. Nonetheless replacing the throttle body with a new part is probably a sound decision being as they do seem to be somewhat problematic on Fords of this period. It could be that the number difference on the original and new part (17/19) could just be part of the date code on the part, it's late September 2018 now so the new part might be from a 2019 model application and the original part could have been a 2017 model year application, suggesting that this van has already had at least one replacement throttle body over its life which wouldn't be surprising on a van like that which was probably originally used for delivering around town/city as the unit will have seen a lot more use than one from a van that had been used on the highway a lot. I suspect what you're seeing on the F350 part is a combination of lacquer peel and also a clear stonechip protection film that was fitted to protect the paint also lifting as the lacquer fails. The front of the flares on dually truck do seem to take a beating from stones on the road so it would be a reasonable area for a caring owner to protect. I would think it will all rub down fine, it just might take a little longer than just rubbing back existing paint. As long as there are no nasties hiding on the inside of the flare then the piece should be fine to use, and with those being some form of plastic or fibreglass I would think any damage would be easy to spot from the inside...
Thx bro, thoughtful reply, I’m hoping the new throttle body solved any future issues so time will tell. As for the film, I tried peeling a little with a heat gun, it worked a little bit only in little sections. It doesn’t bother me yet, I’ll chip away at it here and there for now lol
FixItNick I know using a power sander will take that clear protection film off, but that's possibly not a good idea on a fibreglass/plastic panel that's off the truck, a little too much pressure in the wrong place and the panel could crack or split. I suspect your system of using a heat gun is probably the best idea, there may be solvents that can break the glue down but some solvents will also attack the material of the panel which is exactly what you don't want. I think you're probably best off doing it as you are at the moment, just do little areas at a time as you feel like tackling it and you'll have it all of eventually...
Nice troubleshooting, but I think you could buy a cheap code reader. JMO
I have a code reader and during no crank it was turning on when plugged in but was not establishing connection to the vehicle. After swapped throttle and it started then scanned and had no codes, so weird...
Why did you purchase the rollover van for originally?
Well cuz this van was like this and it was cheaper to buy another van for parts. th-cam.com/video/o94JaZfirj8/w-d-xo.html
Ford, enough said
That’s why I always park in a hill when it runs haha
Kenneth Law FCA is worse!
Yeah man you should have got a ProMaster 350
Ik this is in America but this is why gypos get older MK3 and MK4 transits, because the older 2.5 DI and TDI engines would run for ever with a small requirement of basic services
@@MikeJones-bq5pt ahhaha promaster if braking?
CLEAN THAT VAN YOU REBUILT...... IT LOOKS DIRTY GET ER DUN.
Haha yup yup I know been promising wife
Looks like its just left over from the body piece being wrapped in something. Probably when the peeled off the wrap all of it did not come of and just half-assed the job. Hope this helps.👍
I’ll try to peal it after install on the truck will be easier to work with
You might try using some rubbing alcohol to help get it off, thats what ive done in the past after removing vinyl wrap.
Jacob Pressley will give it a shot once on the truck
Yeah man you should have got a ProMaster 350
Ewww no, my friend has nothing but trouble with his RAM RAM and it’s FWD even more ewwww
You bought a ford van! That's the problem
I’m gonna do a LS swap in it haha
Found your problem it's a FORD
I know!! I expect it to always break down LOL
Just kidding.......
yep my 01 ranger did the same thing on the fiberglass finders
But did what? Clear coat peal? Because clear coat doesn’t peal like this
Achu chic esse gringo trabalhando de luvinha eu com uma luva dessas deixo as chave cair da mão huehueheu BR
What?
@@FixItNick I no speak englich
silas souza no comprende Spanish lol
Oh and tampering with them is highly not recommend.
Well was trying to fix stuff not temper lol ... are they really that sensitive??
It’s a safety issue. If anything had to be assembled wrong the throttle can stick in a part or wide open throttle situation.this can be very dangerous even deadly.
It’s vinyl. It’s from a wrap.
Seems like it, I sure hope so, I wonder if 3M wheel will work?
Why would it be the fuel injection?
What you mean fuel injection? You mean throttle body
On the list of fuses you checked you mentioned fuel injection and I wondered if there something that in the old days would be easily identified as either electrical or mechanical could be computer controlled and therefore a mechanical problem could look just like an electrical. If that makes sense, lol. It seems less intuitive if everything is linked to a computerized controller.
Was there two missfire in 8:23 and 8:29?
No it was in video editing for some reason
@@FixItNick 😄
Your whole problem is that it's a Ford I have a Ford truck that I had put 800 bucks in and I still can't drive the damn thing
That’s why I bought my house on a hill so I can roll down to work haha
You don't really need a fancy computer, you just need an adapter that can connect any PC to the OBD2 connector, and then software that can interpret the standard codes. Alternatively, you can buy a fairly affordable program called Torque Pro off the Android store and connect that to an ODB2 connector adapter and have that talk to your car. You can get a "fancy computer that talks to the car" for easily $50. And I say $50 only because I don't know exactly what the cable will cost, but $20 is more likely, total, as I assume you already have a phone.
How about one of those OBD Bluetooth connectors and then download an app?
I like cables for reliability and simplicity but sure, those should work too, and you won't be tethered to the car. Finding one that is known to work right is probably worth reading some reviews over.
Get a Pressure washer to peal that paint off or whatever it is clear coat
Yea good ideA will try once on truck
Sounds like a bad cell on the battery
Ok well no, bad cell would would still provide something to the starter