I used this system on the ground floor of my house! Great system. I did hit one pipe with a screw right at the end though, mainly down to the fact I was working late and had very low lighting! Works great though! And I agree, I used 6mm ply but would definatley use 9mm in the future! Great video
Been researching various options of underfloor heating and it's pretty hard to get a real life review after a few years - wanted to ask, how is holding up the test of time and usage? are you still happy with it?
Great video. Would be interested in a omnie product that can do both suspended floor and concrete within the same room. Suspended floor is a little lower than the concrete.
Roger, I’ve laid many floors and wet rooms, I’ve been using an app called “my measures” for many years, it allows you to photo a job and add measurements on the phone screen just by pinching the image and tapping the end of the line created. It won’t measure for you but really helps you navigate a wall or floor once the coverings are on.
Hi Roger. Thank you for all the advise that you provide. Your channel is a wealth of information. I noted that you fed the pipe below the routed floor boards and on towards the manifold. Can you please confirm how the air will be purged from the pipe in the routed floor boards as I am doubtful that the pump on the manifold will have enough flow to force all the air out. There is clearly no self venting with the "pipe tails" being below the pipe in the floor boards. Many thanks.
No insulation under it, I was impressed with details you in your videos when suggesting soemthing but my limited understanding, what about the heat loss without insulation under it?
I did my own diy version for my bathroom floor when i replaced the kitchen ceiling underneath, using 10mm speedfit pipe in the flow and return, then encased it in 25mm celotex, for the price of the pipe i have a nece and warm tiled floor in my bathroom.
Thanks very much for such great content to help DIYers and professionals. I’m in the process of installing a similar system from ThermRite, do you have any advice on how to routed the flow and return for other circuits either into or around the boards? Thanks 👍🏻
Hi, If you want to install wet underfloor heating for an existing house that has a suspended floor but the extension is a concert floor, do you recommend using the screed method between the joists or Omnie board above the joist (increasing the floor height is not an issue), thanks.
Hello, Thanks for the video. Been watching a lot of your videos and wanted some help please. I am about to do a retrofit UFH, I have about 25-30mm to add on top of my existing flooring. Wanted to know the best option. Some builders have suggested 22mm from OMNIE and to put the quickstep straight down with underlay. Is this a viable option? le without screed, leveling, primer or ply. My floor is concrete and I really don't want to dig down.
This is a bit of a crazy question but If for an example I was in a part ownership of a home and was wishing to buy out the other partial owner at some point in the future. Could I sneakily get just the floor fitted throughout the house and then get it hooked upto the boiler at a later date? Just as not to unintentionally add value to a home I was having to buy out
Hi, Thank you for your videos, I'm interested now in running underfloor heating, as I wish to add insulation to my ground floor, ensure all pipes are lagged, check for leaks and want to lay new flooring. I've seen quite a few videos now on underfloor heating and preparation for laying it etc, DIY, and feel ready to do it myself. The one thing I haven't seen or had an answer to is, how it connects to a manifold, but my biggest question is, can it connect to my existing boiler? Thank you Martin
Hi Martin You can connect to your boiler by piping the manifold back to the boiler flow and return. I am doing one next week so I will try and shoot some video and do a quick sketch. You need a motorised valve to get the boiler to kick in when the underfloor heating is calling for heat. It is the relay in the valve that is necessary to stop the boiler feeding back into the other circuits.
not sure if this is the same as the comment below but could I just connect up to the flow and return pipes from an existing radiator and obviously get rid of the radiator, not sure about the thermostat valve though
I have done a similar thing in the past but it is too much heat to leave it with no control. Underfloor heating really just needs to be 40 deg cent. at the most. The manifold recirculates some of the cooled water to keep the floor from cooking. You can get DVT or varicose veins from too much heat in the floor.
thanks for reply, getting a new kitchen fitted starting next Monday and I mentioned my underfloor heating plan to the missus, should have seen her face thought I had lost the plot bless her. I have also messaged you regarding exterior wall insulation. Great vlogs
@@SkillBuilder I'll try that next time thanks. I was holding the coil vertically and uncoiling as I went to avoid twisting the pipe. Turning coil over each bend would a twist at each bend
I have a question for you Mr Bisby. Am have the loft converted at the moment and I am in a debate with myself if to go for underflloor heating or having a couple a radiators. A friend of mine said to make sure that when the staircase is made to allow an 18mm in hight to compensate for the underfloor heating. I just spoke to the builder and he said it's a waste of money as the loft will be the hottest part of the house with all the insolation. What would you recommend?
I am completely with the builder on this. The loft is really well insulated and it therefore captures all the heat from the house below. If you use underfloor heating you will be putting in excess heat that won't be easy to control since it stores heat and can't simply be switched on and off. I tell my customers to use radiators upstairs and underfloor heating on the ground floor. That gives you the best of both worlds. That said you might want a tile warmup mat in the shower room.
I think that a board such as Hardibacker or Brio would give a better transfer but the plywood is a structural element which, when stuck, helps to stop flexing. I was apprehensive about this detail and also the fact that the room is carpeted but last winter it worked really well. The spread of heat and the excellent insulation means it can be run at really low temeperatures. In the end the plywood is a kind of thermal store I suppose.
I'm thinking of using the same system under a suspended floor (ground level). How would you approach the insulation part? I was thinking metal mesh over joists then mineral wool between them and a vapour barrier on the top (warm side). Then apply these chipboards + plywood + wooden flooring on top. Would it be better without a vapour barrier? thanks!
I have done ground floors. We put in PUR board and don't bother with the vapour barrier. if you are using mineral wool then go for 200mm and use a garden netting product, It is easy enough to staple onto the joists so it hangs down to support the mineral wool. I have done it several times.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you for all this info, really helpful! Finally managed to get a completion and purchased the house only to discover that most of the ground floor is on concrete subfloor + screed laid on top of some felt underlay. I obviously had to change all the plans so I'm now torn between the Nu-Heat LoPro®Lite OneZone or the MaxOneZone (I know you've recommended them in the past). The Lite system is obviously easier to install and comes with the EPS boards which act as insulation (doesn't seem to be the case with the Max Zone) + seems overall cheaper to go with "Lite" for 55sqm. Not that confident about the point-load strength and if you actually feel a dip when you walk on it but I guess that after adding the engineered wood flooring you won't be able to tell the difference.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you, I want to lay bonded engineered boards (20mm). It seems that even that is supposed to have 6mm ply underneath, no idea why though.
@@JohnSSSSSif I was going to do it again I'd put the thin ply underneath my flooring because I'm having problems with the pipes popping up the pannels. Ply could be screwed down
Anstiss You are right, my mistake. When I first used this it was unique and I didn't know Continental had a version. Funnily enough they also describe theirs as unique.
@@SkillBuilder to be fair I thought it was unique. I couldn't find the Omni when looking for alternatives but it's worth a quote on future jobs. Enjoy the channel btw we need more roofs from Robin. B#st##d valleys would be nice to see how he does them.
I used this system on the ground floor of my house! Great system. I did hit one pipe with a screw right at the end though, mainly down to the fact I was working late and had very low lighting! Works great though! And I agree, I used 6mm ply but would definatley use 9mm in the future! Great video
Been researching various options of underfloor heating and it's pretty hard to get a real life review after a few years - wanted to ask, how is holding up the test of time and usage? are you still happy with it?
Another great vid, I like this system. Recently had underfloor heating done under concrete.
Great presentation. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Good luck in the World Cup
These Videos are really good very concise and easy to follow
Great explanation solid and easy thank you
Thanks Roger. New system to.me but looks great
Great video. Would be interested in a omnie product that can do both suspended floor and concrete within the same room. Suspended floor is a little lower than the concrete.
Thanks Roger I will look at this for my upstairs extension project....
Roger, I’ve laid many floors and wet rooms, I’ve been using an app called “my measures” for many years, it allows you to photo a job and add measurements on the phone screen just by pinching the image and tapping the end of the line created. It won’t measure for you but really helps you navigate a wall or floor once the coverings are on.
Good tip, we will have a look at that.
Hi Roger. Thank you for all the advise that you provide. Your channel is a wealth of information. I noted that you fed the pipe below the routed floor boards and on towards the manifold. Can you please confirm how the air will be purged from the pipe in the routed floor boards as I am doubtful that the pump on the manifold will have enough flow to force all the air out. There is clearly no self venting with the "pipe tails" being below the pipe in the floor boards. Many thanks.
Superb video!
No insulation under it, I was impressed with details you in your videos when suggesting soemthing but my limited understanding, what about the heat loss without insulation under it?
He is talking about insulation and doing it at min 2:51
I did my own diy version for my bathroom floor when i replaced the kitchen ceiling underneath, using 10mm speedfit pipe in the flow and return, then encased it in 25mm celotex, for the price of the pipe i have a nece and warm tiled floor in my bathroom.
I also did that in one of my bathrooms and it works a treat.
so did you add 10mm to the usual 15mm pipe work in the central heating?
Another good job 👍🏽
Thanks very much for such great content to help DIYers and professionals. I’m in the process of installing a similar system from ThermRite, do you have any advice on how to routed the flow and return for other circuits either into or around the boards? Thanks 👍🏻
great video
5:00 I see movement in those boards.
Hi, If you want to install wet underfloor heating for an existing house that has a suspended floor but the extension is a concert floor, do you recommend using the screed method between the joists or Omnie board above the joist (increasing the floor height is not an issue), thanks.
I have same issue. Opting for the boards as can screed over allowing for timber flooring.
pipe looks very small with tiny bore?
Can you lay LVT on top of the top plywood
Hello,
Thanks for the video. Been watching a lot of your videos
and wanted some help please. I am about to do a retrofit
UFH, I have about 25-30mm to add on top of my
existing flooring. Wanted to know the best option. Some
builders have suggested 22mm from OMNIE and to put
the quickstep straight down with underlay. Is this a
viable option? le without screed, leveling, primer or ply.
My floor is concrete and I really don't want to dig down.
If u put 12mm on top why did'nt u run the pipe underneath the floorboard?
This is a bit of a crazy question but If for an example I was in a part ownership of a home and was wishing to buy out the other partial owner at some point in the future. Could I sneakily get just the floor fitted throughout the house and then get it hooked upto the boiler at a later date?
Just as not to unintentionally add value to a home I was having to buy out
Respect in Albanian 🇦🇱🇦🇱🇦🇱🇦🇱
Hi,
Thank you for your videos, I'm interested now in running underfloor heating, as I wish to add insulation to my ground floor, ensure all pipes are lagged, check for leaks and want to lay new flooring.
I've seen quite a few videos now on underfloor heating and preparation for laying it etc, DIY, and feel ready to do it myself.
The one thing I haven't seen or had an answer to is, how it connects to a manifold, but my biggest question is, can it connect to my existing boiler?
Thank you
Martin
Hi Martin
You can connect to your boiler by piping the manifold back to the boiler flow and return.
I am doing one next week so I will try and shoot some video and do a quick sketch. You need a motorised valve to get the boiler to kick in when the underfloor heating is calling for heat. It is the relay in the valve that is necessary to stop the boiler feeding back into the other circuits.
Hi Roger can this system be fitted to a concrete floor with engineered oak T&G on top. Great vid 👍🏻
They have a much better system for that application. It sits in an insulated tray rather than chipboard and you just lay the oak on top
not sure if this is the same as the comment below but could I just connect up to the flow and return pipes from an existing radiator and obviously get rid of the radiator, not sure about the thermostat valve though
I have done a similar thing in the past but it is too much heat to leave it with no control. Underfloor heating really just needs to be 40 deg cent. at the most. The manifold recirculates some of the cooled water to keep the floor from cooking. You can get DVT or varicose veins from too much heat in the floor.
thanks for reply, getting a new kitchen fitted starting next Monday and I mentioned my underfloor heating plan to the missus, should have seen her face thought I had lost the plot bless her. I have also messaged you regarding exterior wall insulation. Great vlogs
Anyone have any tips on stopping the pipes popping up? It springs up so forcefully duck tape isnt going to cut it unfortunately.
you have to turn the pipe over as you put it around the bend
@@SkillBuilder I'll try that next time thanks. I was holding the coil vertically and uncoiling as I went to avoid twisting the pipe. Turning coil over each bend would a twist at each bend
Kinda like Continal OneBoard
Is this breathable?
I have a question for you Mr Bisby. Am have the loft converted at the moment and I am in a debate with myself if to go for underflloor heating or having a couple a radiators. A friend of mine said to make sure that when the staircase is made to allow an 18mm in hight to compensate for the underfloor heating. I just spoke to the builder and he said it's a waste of money as the loft will be the hottest part of the house with all the insolation. What would you recommend?
I am completely with the builder on this. The loft is really well insulated and it therefore captures all the heat from the house below. If you use underfloor heating you will be putting in excess heat that won't be easy to control since it stores heat and can't simply be switched on and off. I tell my customers to use radiators upstairs and underfloor heating on the ground floor. That gives you the best of both worlds. That said you might want a tile warmup mat in the shower room.
@@SkillBuilder thank you for the advice, it is much appreciated.
Could you use a hardwood flooring adhesive to stick the ply to the onboards?
yes but not an expanding polyurethane
Hi roger , do you remember you wrote an artical about the myth about m d f ? I’ve heard of a better one than that ! Terry
Hi Terry
No I don't remember that article. Mind you I wrote a few in 33 years of Professional Builder Magazine. Now, sadly, at an end.
Do you not find that 12mm ply limits the heat transference from the pipes?
I think that a board such as Hardibacker or Brio would give a better transfer but the plywood is a structural element which, when stuck, helps to stop flexing. I was apprehensive about this detail and also the fact that the room is carpeted but last winter it worked really well. The spread of heat and the excellent insulation means it can be run at really low temeperatures. In the end the plywood is a kind of thermal store I suppose.
I'm thinking of using the same system under a suspended floor (ground level). How would you approach the insulation part? I was thinking metal mesh over joists then mineral wool between them and a vapour barrier on the top (warm side). Then apply these chipboards + plywood + wooden flooring on top. Would it be better without a vapour barrier? thanks!
I have done ground floors. We put in PUR board and don't bother with the vapour barrier. if you are using mineral wool then go for 200mm and use a garden netting product, It is easy enough to staple onto the joists so it hangs down to support the mineral wool. I have done it several times.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you for all this info, really helpful! Finally managed to get a completion and purchased the house only to discover that most of the ground floor is on concrete subfloor + screed laid on top of some felt underlay. I obviously had to change all the plans so I'm now torn between the Nu-Heat LoPro®Lite OneZone or the MaxOneZone (I know you've recommended them in the past). The Lite system is obviously easier to install and comes with the EPS boards which act as insulation (doesn't seem to be the case with the Max Zone) + seems overall cheaper to go with "Lite" for 55sqm. Not that confident about the point-load strength and if you actually feel a dip when you walk on it but I guess that after adding the engineered wood flooring you won't be able to tell the difference.
Where can you buy the boards? Can't seem to see them for sale anywhere?
omnie.co.uk/torfloor/
Why is the 6mm ply so important? Is it so the final floating floor can expand and contract without damaging the pipes?
You can lay a laminate directly on it but not a carpet. You will see lines of the pipes. The ply gives the floor covering support.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you, I want to lay bonded engineered boards (20mm). It seems that even that is supposed to have 6mm ply underneath, no idea why though.
@@JohnSSSSSif I was going to do it again I'd put the thin ply underneath my flooring because I'm having problems with the pipes popping up the pannels. Ply could be screwed down
Bit Fit Half Size Down Tiny Small Medium Little Smaller Exercise Smallest Treadmill To Come Down
Continental underfloor do a version called one board so Omni is not unique.
Putting the continental version into a current refurb
Anstiss
You are right, my mistake. When I first used this it was unique and I didn't know Continental had a version. Funnily enough they also describe theirs as unique.
@@SkillBuilder to be fair I thought it was unique. I couldn't find the Omni when looking for alternatives but it's worth a quote on future jobs.
Enjoy the channel btw we need more roofs from Robin.
B#st##d valleys would be nice to see how he does them.
@@thomasanstiss469 Robin will be doing a valley video soon. We have a hip next.
@3:12 Did any of the screws even hit the joists?
They weren't aimed at the joists. The screws were holding down the plywood sheet over the underfloor heating and they were placed between the pipes.
J