Many thanks Tiago. I tried this repair on my 10 years old EPSON EH-TW5000. At some point I had thought that he had reached the end of his life and I should buy a new one. The only difference is that mine has two boards, one on top and one smaller on the bottom where the LCD cables are connected. At the only point where I had a hard time with was that I did not note the position of the Cinema filter when I removed them and so I was not sure about its position in the assembly. But I followed your instructions, and I aligned the end of the filter with the middle of the PLC lens an everything went well. No more horizontal red and blue bands. Thank you again.
I found an 8500UB at Goodwill for $25 - it had the exact problem except much worse. The projector was in a ceiling-mount configuration so this looked like it should be the fix. It was!! The whole process took less than an hour and now it looks as good as new! Thank you for taking the time to make a very good step-by-step video!!!
WOW absolutely amazing! Words cannot describe how ecstatic I am. I inherited a 10 year Epson 8500UB and had a large pink band on the bottom. Replaced the bulb and the bloody band was still there. Was gonna get a new unit and then projector gods smiled down on me and led me to your life saving video! That CLICK was the most beautiful sound I heard in awhile...
A very informative and to-the-point guide. Useful for many more models than just those you show. A few notes I would add: Users may need to make sure they raise the flaps of the auto-iris after putting it back in. Some models will give an "auto iris" warning as it expects them to be open on power on. Users should check the placement of their UV filter before removing, and need to put the UV back where it was. Your model it was in the middle, but some models have the UV filter fully opened or fully closed, and not putting it back correctly can cause problems. Otherwise, very good and thorough.
hi, thanks for the feedback. On this model, the flaps of the iris always perform a routine to reset their position. The UV filter does have sensors to check its boundaries. But, yes, we should always try to leave it the way it was before we disassembled it.
Thanks for the tutorial. I took mine apart for a few hours and did what you recommended and it did not work for me. Glad it worked for others- but my Blue and Red haze is still there.
I've been living with a red line on top and a green line on bottom of my projector image for 3 years and now FINALLY all thanks to your video I fixed it in about an hour this afternoon. Picture looks perfect just like it did when I turned it on for the first time. Thank you for making this video!
Just used these instructions for an epson procinema 9500UB. Was a bit different looking as there are 2 mother boards but I didn't have to remove the auto iris. All I needed was a small long screw driver. It worked perfectly, just push the little thingy til it clicks. Saved big $$$. Thank you!!!! The red and blue bands are completely gone!!
Yeah I just did this on my 8700UB and also ran into 2 motherboards. I didn't remove the 2nd board or the auto-iris, but I removed the UV/infrared filter, pressed on the glass, and that fixed it! I realized, after putting it all back together, I could actually see the glass to press down from the lamp opening itself! If this ever happens again, I will carefully put pressure on the glass from the lamp opening without taking anything apart.
Great video! I have a similar problem on an Epson EH-TW5650 but it's vertical color drift on the left and right sides of the image (on a white background the image is fine white in the center but turns green on the left and right). Where do you think this could be coming from?
hi. If it's a sort of gradient color on the sides, there's a high probability the problem is polarizer filter that degraded from heat over time; nothing can be done about this except replacing the polarizers (easier to just buy another second-hand projector but make sure it's got no issues). If it's clear vertical bars on the side, there's likely an issue with alignment as shown in this video except the glass is misaligned to one side (not common at all). The lamp itself being misaligned could also cause this, but it's also not common to happen.
@@Descalabro Thanks for the information! In fact it's a video projector I bought second hand, and if what you say is correct I think the only solution would be to replace the polarizing filters (for example from another equivalent video projector). After disassembly, these filters seem to be burnt (there are black marks and quite a lot of dust).
Just in case you forgot how helpful this video was….it still was amazingly helpful. Thanks for this amigo!! Wish I would have tried this before buying a new lamp but hey…can’t win ‘em all!!
You sir are a genious. I have an EH-TW4400 with this problem but the top line was green and almost at 1/3 of the image and the bottom was pink.This method completely fixed my problem. Thank you.
Huge thanks to you, Tiago. Your procedure fixed this exact issue with my 8500ub by following the excellent detailed walkthrough. I didn't hear much of a click when I pressed down firmly on the lens, but it seems to have resolved my issue anyway. Cheers from Ottawa ON, Canada.
Hallo sir , i have a vertical blue hue on the left and red hue on the right of my projected image , will this be a similar issue or something else ? Appreciate
Hi. It sounds like a similar issue, except the square lens is probably misaligned to the side, laterally, instead of vertically. I can’t be sure of it, it might be something else misaligned.
I did this on my Epson 3020 for a red bar at bottom and blue at top. I heard the click and hoped for the best. Now instead of being at the bottom and top only it is spread over the entire picture and green seems to be there too. Any ideas or suggestion? Did I push it down too far?
Thank so much for this video! I was almost about to throw away the projector I've had for 12 years. Thanks so much for saving the earth and our wallets and being able to repair what I own.
Hi, excellent video, I'm not sure if my epson 3020 have the same problem, I have photos but I can't uploaded here. Can you reply to my mail? Thank you and nice work.
I have courageously taken apart an Epson Powerlite 1960, and was able to get as far as removing the motherboard, the next step, removing the "auto iris" seems to be too different from the model you demonstrated, and I was not sure how to proceed. I have two 1960's with the same aparent problem. One has the blue line in the bottom, horizontally, the other vertically on the left. Still, this was very informative. Thank you for your help.
Hi. I've never disassembled one of those smaller models, but according to this video, it seems to me there are 2 screws that hold a metal plate over the auto iris and the lens which you need to push on. th-cam.com/video/9ZN85H3KCQ4/w-d-xo.html You may even be able to push on the lens without removing the iris. If you still can't do it, send me photos to descalabro@gmail.com
Well done! I have a serious pink band on the lower half on my Epson 3020 and am thinking about opening it up and seeing if there's a similar issue within. It kinda seems like this lens is now part of the bulb on that model. Am I correct?
hi Clinton. Excuse me for the late reply. I am not kowledgeable about the 3020, but it's somewhat common for the lamp module to include these kinds of lenses, which doesn't mean there aren't such lenses also inside the projector. I think that maybe you should send me a photo of the issue to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com.
Thanks so much for this. I just repaired my projector this morning. Your instructions are so clear, it was actually a fair bit easier than I was expecting. I also put a tiny drop of glue on the edge of the filter once it as clicked back in to space hopefully to stop this happening again.
Great, i'm glad it helped. What kind of glue did you use? Be careful, that lens gets extremely hot, and not every glue will react well to intense heat.
A single dot of cyanoacrylate glue, ie super glue. I just did some reading and you’re right, that glue can catch fire! It’s only one drop so even if it does hopefully it won’t cause lasting damage. I probably should have used a hot glue gun (there was already some of that glue on the filter).
@@danielwatson5334 Well, a single drop should burn off very quickly. It's just that super glue will release gases that cause stains long after it's dry. But, being a single drop, it should be OK.
Just did exactly as you did on my 8500ub. For some reason it just wont power on anymore. Idk what happened. I was extremely careful and followed almost identically to your video. Any idea what could've happened?
This is excellent. Going to try it on my 8700UB that's had a discoloration band on top since a third-party bulb popped inside. I assume the blast shook this out of place.
Yes, that's likely to happen. The UB models have an additional board under the main board. LCD cables connect to this additional board. I'm not sure you will need to remove it.
@@Descalabro You were right! There was a second board under the first. I started to remove it, but noticed I could access the filter cover without having to. I removed the filter and pressed down on the lens without removing the auto-iris. That fixed it! One thing that confused me was where to position the filter -- it could be put anywhere the teeth could grab, and I wasn't sure what position it was in when I took it out. Does the position you insert the filter matter, or does the gear automatically recalibrate the position? Another thing, as I was putting it back together, I noticed I could actually see the glass to press down simply by removing the lamp cover. Yes, it was very close to the filter, but with precision, I suspect you could fix the whole problem without taking anything apart -- though you risk damaging the filter or something, I guess.
Oh, it looks like you did specify where the UV/infrared filter needs to be positioned -- halfway. I guessed randomly where to put it and, since it works, looks like I guessed correctly!
@@glr See at 08:36 how I suggest you place it. I think it will align itself when the projector starts as long as you place it between the 2 white tabs that detect it on each side. The position I suggested here is the same the projector sets when shutting off.
Totally fixed my band issue. Now months later I turn on projector and system goes into overheat protection mode even though it is cold. It is an intermittent problem, but occurs more often than not, and once it happens, it keeps happening. I suspect thermistor.
Glad it fixed your banding issue. The overheat problem is usually caused by a fan acting up. Thermistor fail is much less common. The issue is usually fixed by removing the fans, clean the dust out or tapping on them a little, and putting them back. Often, just the action of taking them out and putting them back again solves the issue. I don't know why, but it happened somewhat frequently when I had these projector models.
Thank you Tiago for this great help video. I have an EH-TW5900 with a very large red band (one fifth of screen) and a smaller green band at the top. Do you know if this click of the lense trick might work on my projector as well? I couldn't find a video for this model. Thanks again.
hi, Bruce. you're welcome. It's likely that the same procedure will fix it, although you may have to press on more than one square lens. Check this video for an issue more similar to yours: th-cam.com/video/xYlWnTg7QIA/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyGmRZwkTNB4tZFiGB4AaABAg.9RLXA916vX39RLZcIxrJuc As for the model, it's not the same as yours, but the procedure is fairly similar. You just have to pay attention to notice where that screws and cables are.
Awesome video. There were some differences with my 8700UB with 2 motherboards and need to remove extra screws to open the top cover. Otherwise, worked great. It saved me $3k from having to buy a new projector.
Thank you kind Sir!. I just got this exact projector for free and it had that reddish bar on top. Did just as you showed in the video, Pushed the lens down by approx 0,5mm and now it is like new! 5/5 Would fix again with this tutorial! You are the best! I hope all the good in the world to you man :p
Thanks a lot man, i just fixed my TW3500 by following your video. One small tip i would recommend to save your finger and fingernails, is that when you take out the cables from the motherboard - once you've moved the connector and there is a tiny gap between the male / female-connection, i used a tiny screwdriver and then moved it carefully to create leverage - the connector literally takes a few seconds to get out this way and you won't have sore fingers.
I'm glad it helped you. :) I thought about doing that, but I was somewhat afraid to break or bend any of the tiny pins in the connection. I'll try that out next time. Thanks. And cheers!
I see what you mean. As long as you don't try to stick it all the way in but wiggle at the edge there should be no risk. The leverage in the right spot makes it pop out super quickly.
Thank you so much for the video! I had a large red band on the bottom about 1/3 the screen, and green on the top 1/3. Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 2000. Took it apart very similar to your video layout, and push the lens down with a loud click just like you showed! So excited. But when I reassembled and turned it on, now my color issues have flipped, with red on top and green on bottom, each 1/3 of the screen. Did I push it too far?
hi. You're welcome. Well, this "click" issue should not cause bands that take up 1/3 of the screen each. That would likely be a more severe misalignment, I suppose. Are you sure the projector wasn't turned upside down before you opened it and then you tested it standing on its feet after reassembly? My point is, it's possible that the 1/3 screen color bands are caused by another issue. Once it clicks, it should have nowhere else to move, unless your model has more space under the lens that clicked. I've seen this severe issue of color bands happen because of a lamp (or lamp encasing) not being horizontal and parallel to the projector. You can send me some photos of the issue to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com.
Great info, thank you. I am going to take my PowerLite 8350 apart and see if I can fix magenta spots (out of focus magenta dots). I can see them on white image. When I adjust focus I can focus on these magenta dots all over the screen. Would you happen to have an idea what the problem is and what shall I fix? Would highly appreciate you help. Thank you!
hi, thanks. Those spots can be focused because they are dust (or other) particles directly on the surface of the LCD panel (or on the nearby polarizer filter panel). Now, there are 3 LCD panels, each with its own polarizer filter panel. Dust goes there because the ventilation air blows directly there. If the dots are magenta, that likely means the spots are on the GREEN LCD panel. Anyway, as a first step, you can turn on the 'high altitude mode' on the projector menu, to see if they get dislodged (unlikely). Otherwise, the usually way is to open the projector, remove the optical block, and then blow compressed air (with a moist filter) in a tangential direction to each of the LCD panels and polarizer filter panels. If you need more detailed help, send me some images first to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com
@@Descalabro thank you! What images do you mean? Of the spots or when I disassemble the projector? I am a bit nervous to take it apart after watching your video, so I don't screw the whole projector up.
@@russella5296 I mean photos of the projected image on screen, with the magenta spots. Try the high altitude mode first. Leave it on for a while. Watch a movie or something.
I'm on my 2nd Epson 8100 because i was getting color bleed at the top or bottom of the screen, not as defined as the bar you showed in the video, but i'm wondering if it could be the same problem. This replacement is now getting the same problem, not a full defined line, just yellow bleeding up from the bottom of the screen when i show a white image. I guess i'll give this a shot and see if it goes away.
Hi, unless it's a kind of band or thick line from one side to the other, it's not the same issue. Issues of spots and stains are usually caused by either a faulty polarizer filter or a faulty LCD panel.
@@Descalabro How did those bands appear on your projector? Did you just turn it on one day and it was there or did it gradually go from not bad to a full band? My problem seems to gradually be getting worse the more i use the projector and may end up being a band or line at the bottom of the screen. I wonder if that messed up lens is slowly working itself out with every heat cycle and i'll ultimately end up with the same band at the bottom of my screen.
@@FXTdriver Hi, the reason why this happens is heat. For example, sometimes there is a heat release when a lamp dies inside the projector, and it moves that square lens; or when the projector is upside down, just regular heat will displace that lens. As for your situation, as long as it is a regular straight band, it's very likely the cause is this square lens.
@@Descalabro Yea looking at your band, i suspect my lense is just slowly working itself out because the yellow is getting worse and bigger across the whole bottom of the screen, and it looks like there's red following it.
Thanks for the video. I have an Epson tw5500 with the same color band issue. main board however is different from yours. mine has a double layer. but the lens issue fix is exactly the same. thanks a lot.
Muhammad Yaseen thanks. Not all projectors have the same configuration. Epson projectors usually look like this images.app.goo.gl/tyJnoFdv61B5gYFdA you need to place a flashlight in the place of the lamp and try to obtain this color separation
This is an amazing video, I'm so happy I found this. Would you happen to know where I can find additional parts for this projector? It is an Epson 7500UB, I suspect the blue Dichroic Glass in my projector has burned up as the blue is severely lacking in the final picture.
hi. Sorry for the late reply. I seriously doubt the burn on the dichroic glass would affect one color only. Anyway, if you can actually see the glass iso burned, you can try to clean it (or, are you talking about one of the colored glasses inside the lightpath?). If you want to get parts for it, I suggest this german vendor at www.gedat-spareparts.com/index.php , or I can try to find a chinese vendor for you.
I have an Epson Home Cinema 2100. It is hanging upside down and the projected image has a red band on the bottom, and blue band on the top. Is it possible to push down on that faulty lens without opening the entire thing up? I emailed you the photo of my Bulb Changing opening. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO Tiago!! I hope to try it after I gather some time and courage.
Hi Don. Here'ws my reply to your e-mail: "I don't know if this model also has two square lenses as the one in my video, but, it's likely it has, because it's common to see two of them in LCD-based projectors. I would say the lens on your photo is not the same as the one in my video. It's actually the one that's closer to the lamp. In any case, it's not possible to set it in place without opening the projector. Even if you somehow squeeze in something thin and rigid to apply pressure on it, you'll risk breaking the lens because pressure should be applied uniformly (not in a single point). You might be able to press on the square lens without having to remove as many parts as I did, however. As for your second question, EPSON is the only one I know that has lenses sliding down because of heat. However, I've seen other LCD-based projectors developing similar issues because of heat (not necessarily upside-down) where other lenses/mirrors in the optical system have shifted and caused color issues. The safest bet against such issues is to have a DLP projector instead of LCD, but that's not to say DLP projectors don't develop problems of their own. Cheers!
Great Guide and well detail..I have an Epson 8350 that has a thin vertical red line at the far right of the projector screen does this solution aplly to it or else ?
Thanks. About your question, this solution does not apply. In the video I corrected the vertical alignment of a squared lens to make those horizontal bars disappear. A vertical line, however, would require a horizontal alignment correction, but that is not at all common on this lens, although it may occasionally happen in other optical elements. But that's not all: a vertical line, if very sharp and straight, may be caused by a faulty electronic contact. So, you can send me a good photo of the issue and maybe I can point you in the right direction. tiagoljordao@gmail.com
Just a few days ago I started noticing two horizontal pink/magenta bands, rather subtle, along the extreme top and bottom of the screen. They look like the same dimension as 16:9 letterbox bands. I have an Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that's just short of a year old. I wonder if mine has the same problem addressed in the video. Mine is mounted upside down. All operational lights are normal.
Hello Tiago, thank you in advance for your help. I have an Epson 3020 Home Cinema, and it has a red tint band at the bottom since the last bulb died. The assembly looks different than the video you showed, would this tutorial still apply?
Hi Bruno. You're welcome. If the red band is consistent along the width of the image, and if it's not too thick (if it's close to the edge), then it should be the same issue.
@@Descalabro Thank you Tiago. It is at the bottom edge. It goes away if I change the keystone vertical setting to tilt it. My concern is that when I open up the projector, the assembly will be different and I won't be able to find my way around..
Thanks. It's likely to happen again if the projector is upside down. An industrial epoxy should do it. Read this: «UPDATE 4/21/2016 ---- I hang my projector from the ceiling. I should have known the lens would slip out of position. In 2 months, the lines reappeared. I fixed it again but this time I used a hobby knife and gently and meticulously removed the soft, rubbery glue that's supposed to hold the lens in place. I then got out my "Bob Smith Industries" industrial epoxy and used a toothpick to dab the corners and work the epoxy into the crevice where the original glue once was. I rigged up a way to put 5 lbs of pressure on the lens and left it to cure overnight. It's been holding in place really well so far.» Source: sites.google.com/site/troyinphoenix/
@@Descalabro Fantastic guide. This is exactly my problem also, as I hang my projector from the ceiling. I have fixed it once, but came back several months later. Can you tell me what type of industrial epoxy you used, as there are several BSI adhesive types within that category? Also, I'm not sure I'm clear wear you are putting the epoxy, is it easy to see where the original epoxy was applied to the lens? Thanks in advance, as this has been a frustration for me for quite a while.
@@krdoll01 Thanks for the comment. I never had to use the epoxy because I used this projector on its feet. You may check this link for more details about the epoxy fix: sites.google.com/site/troyinphoenix/
Great video! Just bought used tw2900 and it has reddish band on the bottom of the image. It's been installed on the ceiling so it might have this same problem.
So many thanks I made the procedure and it worked perfectly. The poblem in the future can reappear or not. However the projector is like new. A thousand thanks again for your excellent video.
@@salvuswallas Sure, you can do it whenever the lens pops out again. If it's in normal position, it shouldn't pop out again unless there is a sudden energy release, such as a bulb failing or blowing. You're welcome.
Home cinema 2000. I have blue on the top and right and red at the left and bottom. Mine is similar to this but not quite. It all began within a month of changing the bulb the first time. I find it hard to believe it's a coincidence. It started with a very faint discoloration and over the course of a few days the colors got darker and darker. The bulb is aftermarket and I've tried two others and same deal. I've disassembled it many times while adjusting the mirrors, then checking it to no avail. I pushed down as hard as I could on that particular lens and it didn't budge, I don't know what else to do. Otherwise it works and I've been using it, it's just is aggravating having distorted colors.
hi. Are they bars of color or more like soft gradients? What you're describing could be the lamp not properly aligned with the optical elements. I've seen a case like this once.
Hi Tiago! Thank you very much, really! Your tutorial has been so useful for us. We´ve got two projectors (Epson 1945W) with the exactly same issue. The first one got fixed by following your steps. It was amazing! But when we tryied to fix the second one, i think that we pressed the lens much more than we should had pressed. Now, the blue band dissapeared, but the red one ocuppies half of the image. I wanted to put the lens upper, but it is so hard to move it. Have you got any idea or reccomendation to fix this problem? Thank you so much
thanks so much, this is very helpful, in the case of my Epson 8100, I found that after removing auto-iris, that lens can be pushed down without removing that cinema filter (6:53) (that lens can be accessed from lamp side, right under the cinema filter top mental bar).
Have observed a greyish black horizontal band similar to the upper black bar in the video presentation. Does not dampen video quality. But is it a matter of concern as it can be observed only on certain frames?
sorry for the late reply. Well, the reason why it can only be observed on certain frames might be because it only affects one or two of the colors. If it can be seen with a completely white image, then it means all colors are affected.
Hello! Excellent video. I have a 5020 with horizontal red lines across just the left side of the image only. They appear all the way from top to bottom of the image. I saw another commenter had a 5020 that you gave advice to, but my problem seems a bit different. Any chance you think it might be a similar issue? Guess I don’t have much to lose to open it and try it out. Thanks!
oh my lord just watching the process of this is giving me anxiety i have a projector epson 8100 and i have to do this because it has the same issue hopefully it works or money wasted... but great video very great instuctions
Thanks! Make sure you’ve got all the tools: long screwdriver with magnetic tip, an additional long magnet to fish screws if you need to, latex gloves, and preferably electronic chip extractor tweezers (this will make it really easier). Don’t do anything you don’t feel right. Go slowly, you’ll be fine.
Tiago -- this is an incredibly useful instructional video. I have a 7500 that has a greenish cast in the upper right hand corner of the screen. Do you think that might be related to the light path or something else? How to share a photo of it with you?
Thanks. If it has a discoloration on a corner, it's more likely one of the colour filters inside has started to wear out. You can send me photos to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com so I can check it. Preferably with a plain white image.
Hi Tiago.... I have an Epson Projector TW8300 3LCD and for quite a time I am getting to see this vertical lines on left side of the screen sometimes it's 1or 2 or max 4. Kindly punch in your details to share the image for reference. Thanks buddy & Great share by you.
I don't get it... just pushing the part down fixed the problem? I have a shadowy / slighty reddish horizontal band on top of my screen (Epson EHTW6600)... do you think it can be the same issue?
excuse me for the late reply. I've been too busy. The reason why pushing the lens down solves the problem is that the misaligned lens causes a vertical deviation in the light beam, and so it becomes a bit diagonal instead of horizontal. When you put the lens back into place, the light beam goes horizontally again. Regarding your question, maybe it is the same problem. You can send me photos to descalabro@gmail.com. Better use a white image.
Это очень полезный урок для меня. У моего проектора 8500UB давно эта проблема. Внизу красная полоса, вверху зеленая (проектор подвешен вверх ногами). В ближайшее время попробую отремонтировать. Спасибо!
Thank you for the awesome video! Do you think this would work for a related red/blue color banding issue: The projector bulb exploded in an Epson 3020. After changing to a new bulb, I see some subtle defuse color bands. They are most visible as blue on the left edge and red on the right edge. This is most noticeable as there's a drop in brightness on both the right and left edges. Also there's a harder to notice horizontal blue band about 1/6th of the vertical size of the screen and about 1/10th of the way down from the top. Similar sized red band 1/10th of the way from the bottom. Any ideas if your procedure would fix this? Much appreciated!
Thanks for your kind comment. So, when a bulb bursts inside a projector there's a sudden heat release which can affect inner lens alignment or, in the worse and rare cases, burn optical parts. If what you're describing are straight and regular bands of color, either vertical or horizontal, it's likely there was some misalignment caused by the burst bulb. So, better send me some photos of a projected white image to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com so I can take a better look at it.
I have exactly the problem of the video in my TW3500. I've just changed the lens but the red-green horizontal band above and the green band below remain. I would like to venture into disassembling the projector. So at the end, just lower the lens with force and that's it. Everything is solved.
This is a great video. Do you think this will work on a 8350 powerlite? I’ve had light vertical lines in the middle of my projector screen for a while. They are very close together but very light. Any thoughts? Plus occasionally I get an auto iris error with some ticking noises when using the projector. Any help will be very appreciated. Thanks
Hello Jesus Castle. Very sorry for the very late reply. The issue you're describing sounds like it's caused by a fault on the image signal sent through the LCD cables. It's not fixable by following the procedure in this video.
Hello, if you have a vertical blue line that appears at start up and sometimes remains for a few minutes then disappears or sometimes remains, is it the same cause or something else? Thanks
hi. You're probably talking about a sharp line, that affects one or more columns of pixels from top to bottom. This likely means there is a faulty contact between the main board and one of the LCD panels. Usually, it's a problem with the LCD cable. with some luck, it can be fixed by unplugging and replugging said cable (probably the cable to the RED color LCD, based on what you're saying).
thiago. pelo que entendi, sem ler todas as respostas, e que se trata de um desalinhamento da lente apenas (aquela multifacetada) e nao o filtro. e isto? meu epson 935 apresenta uma faixa rosa no topo. obrigado.
@@Descalabromeu epson 935W tem 2 lentes destas. qual seria? a lente no 1 (branca transparente). fez o click. a lente no. 2 (multicolorida) parece estar colada e nao se move. fiz o procedimento e continuou igual o problema. alguma sugestao? ou outra causa?
Great Job! The pink lines at the top of the screen disapeared. One comment : Is the position of the filter (at 8:37) depending on the color mode (or another option) I used before opening the device ? It seems the global display for the white color is a bit yellow after repairing.
Hi. Glad you liked the video. Don't you mean the filter at 07:41, perhaps? This filter will be moved into position, that is, in front of the lamp, when using cinema modes (and perhaps one more mode which namr I don't recall), but even if you use a dynamic mode, it will be moved into position before turning off the projector. Anyway, none of the parts where I touched should cause any yellowing, unless the image has a tendency to green, in which case the red overtones of the filter might cause somewhat of a yellow tone, but very faint. Yellow spots or stains are usually caused by stains or worn-out areas on the polarizer glasses, either on the lightpath or near the LCD's. Is it a general and uniform yellow, or is it more like a stain/haze? If it's uniform, try to raise color temperature to 6000K, or even 6500K.
Tiago hi! mate I just found this exact EH-TW3500 projector at the dump complete with remote control! I was wondering if you could give me a bit of guidance. I turned it on and it had definitely been used upside down off a ceiling. It also has the Red and blue/greenish horizontal hue lines. So I went into the menu and corrected it for shelf mode. But instead of thin lines on top and bottom of the screen the red and the blueish hues take up about a third of the screen each. Like the top third of the screen is a red hue, the middle (2nd third) of the screen is perfect, and the bottom third is a blue hue. Could this be the same problem mate but just really exaggerated? I'd love to get this going. I have extensive experience doing these kind of involved fixes :) Any help you could hive would be muchly appreciated :) Cheers Isky
Hello. Well, what you're describing may be more than just a misalignment, the same lens that is misaligned in this video might be entirely tilted. Those red and blue lines, are they very regular and sudden, or are they like a gradient? Anyway, you can follow the procedure in this video at least and see if the lens clicks down. But, before that, look closely to understand if any of the lenses shown on the video have become loose. Another thing you want to check is the lamp module, more precisely, check if the lamp and its module are sitting horizontally as they should. I've seen image issues such as the one you describe being caused by a lamp not being horizontal as it should.
@@Descalabro Thanks so much for your reply Tiago! I'll open it up and take a look. But I think I might even send you and email of a picture first. I would class them as a gradient? Not sudden/hard edges. The edges are definitely soft/blurry. I'll check out the lamp module first though. Although I did notice that the lamp does say it has 1200 hours on it so I reckon if it was installed wrong they probably wouldn't have put up with this fault for such a long time :) Anyway I might shoot you an email and see what you think. I'll also reply here once I've worked things out in case it helps others :)
Mate I fixed it! It was exactly the same thing that you did in this video. Except I think I heard 2 clicks where as your had the single click. I took a lot of footage of me doing it so when I create my new TH-cam chanel I'll upload it and let you know :D Thanks so much for all your help buddy I can't thank you enough!
hi. Thanks. Details of the disassembling process might vary, but it's essentially the same for any lamp-based Epson projector, although the ones with this design have this problem more often than others. Is it a color banding similar to what's shown in the video?
So, is the banding caused by that last lens being loose? How does it become loose? This seems like a scary amount of pulling apart my projector, but, cheaper than replacing it. Is this something that's going to happen again? I've had my 2100 for almost 2 years and the bars showed up about a week ago.
It happens mostly because of heat generated from the projector, and mostly when the projector is upside-down. Also happens when a bulb bursts inside the projector. So, if yours is upside-down, it's likely to happen again, unless you use a strong epoxy resign to glue it into place.
@@Descalabro Yikes! Mine is upside-down. And my model is different than yours, so I imagine screws and sockets are placed elsewhere. All of the comments below suggest that this is fix easily works, but the amount of taking it apart is daunting. I'm worried I'll do something wrong and then have a broken projector.
@@poxyclypse Well, the simple answer is that if you don't feel at least a bit comfortable about the idea then you shouldn't try it. The more complex answer is that most of these projectors are more or less the same inside, with screws not in the same place nor the same amount, but not too far from it either. The HC 2100 is a bit smaller than this one, so it's expected that parts will be closer together. I can try to provide you a complete diagram for it, but that will probably scare you more at first.
@@Descalabro I realized that if it's gravity and heated glue that caused the trouble, I reconfigured and have the projector right-side-up, and the problem has almost completely vanished. Thank you for your information and kind words.
@Tiago Jordão Update: It's been nine hours of having the projector right-side-up, and the color bands are completely gone. My solution will not address those who have theirs mounted from the ceiling, but, I was able to flip my 2100 onto a lower shelf and everything has returned to normal. My problems were - 1: projector flipped. 2: not good ventilation above 3: quarantine having me put it into use, continuously, for more than 10 hour a day. So, my projector was upside-down, overuse and poor ventilation created heat which melted the glue, gravity conspired, lens slid. Thanks again for your insights.
Great, awesome, helpful video. I have the blue and green lines as shown in your video on my Epson 5020UB. Do you think it will it be a similar disassembly? And how did that lens pop outta place I wonder? Thanks!
Hi Jim. Glad you like the video. The Epson 5020UB is a more complex projector, so there may be more cables and boards to disassemble. At least one extra board below the one I disassembled in this video. But the basic structure is the same. Here's a diagram of one similar to yours: www.gedat-spareparts.com/ex/eh_tw9200w.pdf Still, go slowly and remember there may be an extra board. As for your question about the lens, it probably the heat that makes it pop out, especially if the projector is upside down. Good luck.
Thanks again Tiago! I printed diagram you provided to place screws appropriately, that helped, and took pics and video along the way. Very similar tear down as your video. Only one main board too. I did not however feel a click when reseating lens but noticed assembly seemed lose. After finishing color bands were gone. This wouldn’t have been possible without your generosity and kicking my cat outta the house! Now I can sell my 5020UB since I upgraded to the 5050
I have vertical “lines” or foggy spots in my picture. It’s on a eh-tw5500. On left side of the picture it’s more red/orange in middle it’s neutral and on right side more blue/cold color. Will this repair fix that problem too? By the way, fantastic video👍🏻
Hi. Thanks. If you mean there is a reddish haze on the left side and a blueish haze on the right side, that's a common issue on LCD projectors. It's caused by degradation of the polarizer filter, caused by heat, usually the blue polarizer filter. The only way to fix that is to replace the polarizer filter. However, if you are talking about actual vertical straight bars, which is unlikely, then it's caused by a horizontal misalignment or tilt in one of the many glasses on the lightpath. I've seen this problem on JVC and Panasonic projectors, but never on an Epson, and it doesn't seem to be the issue you're describing.
Tiago Jordão. Thanks, it’s a haze as you say( didn’t know the English word for it🙈) Do you know if this filter is possible to get somewhere and is it a easy way to change it?
I have sent you an e-mail with the contact to purchase the polarizer filter from China. But before you spend money on it make sure there's actually a problem with the blue polarizer. Project a black image and see if it looks dark blue in some areas (or maybe even the whole screen area) If it doesn't look dark blue, then the blue polarizer should be ok, but it will be more difficult to know which polarizer to replace. Make the room as dark as possible for this test.
@@Descalabro I also have the issue of a large haze of blue on the left size, and an orange haze on the right side. So I think it's the polarizer filter. Can you provide the link to order it from China? Thanks!!
Thx for this Video, with it i was able to fix my Beamer. It now works like it did, as i bought it. *I also replaced my old lamp to improve the Picture.
Thanks for the instructional video! I followed to the letter (except mine is a 7500 UB and had an additional board to remove) and everything went smoothly. Unfortunately, when powering back up, the two red warning lights (lamp and temp) come on and the internal cooling fans run at full blast. Can’t turn it off with the power button, have to unplug it to shut it off. Any idea as to what went wrong?
Never mind, operator error! Cracked it back open and found a couple of possible culprits. One was two adjacent leads that may have gotten crossed at the termination point where the jacketing didn’t extend far enough to protect them. The other was where the two boards connect together. While everything went together, I didn’t realize they connected together at that point. They may not have been fully connected after the first reassembly. Live and learn!
meu epson 935W tem 2 lentes destas. qual seria? a lente no 1 (branca transparente). fez o click. a lente no. 2 (multicolorida) parece estar colada e nao se move. fiz o procedimento e continuou igual o problema. alguma sugestao? ou outra causa? nao seria o caso de levantar a lente ao inves de empurrar para baixo? ou a imagem e invertida nesta lente?
Hey awesome video.. thanks for your work! I have an Epson HC 3700.. and i have more of a red glow on black/dark backgrounds. For example.. Andoid TV background is black with a grey gear in the top right.. that grey gear has a red glow all around it. (My HC 2040 doesn't do this with same source).. or right now as I'm typing this the video is paused and the background is all black.. but the left edge of the black background has a red glow. The issue seems to be worst on the left, right edges.. and a little bit top and bottom.. and pretty much non-existent the closer you get to the center. Any suggestions on what the issue might be and would this potentially resolve the issue? Thanks a lot for your time! :D
Hi. Thanks for the comment! Visible glow on dark images may be caused by dust accumulation. On this case, on the RED LCD panel. Try moving the focus ring to focus on the glowing blobs. If you succeed on focusing, then it means it's indeed dust. If you can't focus on the glow, send me some photos of it to descalabro@gmail.com
Tiago Jordão hey man it came back I think I need to glue it can I fully remove the lens and glue the bottom and stick her in? Or is that dangerous to the projector
Very informative video Tiago - thanks for uploading it! I am thinking of performing the same fix on my TW 9300 (6040UB in the U.S if I'm not mistaken); although I am not 100% certain that the issue is the same (and also out of fear of damaging the projector, which is still relatively new, but not covered by warranty) I have a (horizontal) tint on the top part of the image. It is more of a "dim" band (almost like an "OSD-overlay"), and is not always visible. It mainly depends on the color (green is affected). It is very slightly reddish though. I have not as yet seen any image fault on the lower part of the picture (*knock wood*) Do you think the issue I am having is the same? (I know my description probaly isn't the best) I am a bit skeptical since it was mentioned that it should not be an issue on newer home cinema models, which the TW 9300 certainly is. I have previously opened up an Epson projector though (a TW 9000), which developed a *vertical* blue line. That was thought to be related to the ribbon cable for the blue LCD panel (but obviously wasn't). No motherboard had to be removed on that one, which is why I attempted it... Thanks again for the video.
hi. Thanks for the comment. Better send me a photo of the projected image to TiagoLJordao@gmail.com Make sure to project an all white image with the whole screen visible, or one with a color that can make the color band more visible.
@@Descalabro This took me a bit longer than expected - as the issue was harder to capture on camera than I thought; but I've sent some pics and two video clips to you now.
Thank. Glad you liked it. May be, but experience tells me I shouldn't try to fix what's not broken, which I did in the past with very bad results. If I had some vertical pixel lines, I would surely use that cleaner, but otherwise I'll just leave those contacts alone. Cheers.
I wonder if this also applies to the TW2900. It looks almost identical to the TW3500 in this video. My bulb blew and after replacing it, I noticed a blueish hue band on the top part of the image. Bottom still seems fine though.
@@Descalabro Well, it worked. Was an easy fix after all. I also replaced the lamp while I was at it, as the old one flickered annoyingly. Thank you for the informational video, it was very helpful.
wonderful, but I have same problem with old model of eLUX EX2010, red band is occupied my screen like a big dot also. What should i do? early response will be appreciated, please.
I have a faulty Epson Eh-tw9000W projector which projects a faulty image with half the screen Image having a blue haze to it. I would appreciate your advice as to what is causing the fault and a possible fix if it feasibly worthwhile. Thanks
@@Descalabro Hello, it's a blue haze that covers half the image on the screen. I have sent two images to your Gmail address so you can see the issue. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Tiago! Would this fix apply if the blue and red bands are vertical at the edges, not horizontal? It's a TW6000.. I could send you a photo if it helps!?
hello Tiago, i have a issue with my epson tw-5200 projector, could you try do help me figure out the reason of the problem? do you have an email for me send you some pictures? thank you, i am from brazil
I got a free projector (TW3200) and the colours are split, sort of looks like the red and blue 3D effect. (But with the LED colours) I checked this lens and it was cracked in half, I pulled it out and the image looks the same. Do you have any idea on what it could be? Thansk
Question. I have an Epson 3010 and I have the same red and blue bleed but mine is on the right and left side of the screen. Blue is on the left and red is on the right. My projector is ceiling mounted. Any suggestions??
hi. That's indicative of a horizontal misalignment or tilt, rather than a vertical misalignment as in the video. Are those red and blue bleeds thin, or more like a wide gradient becoming worse towards the edges?
@@Descalabro they are wide. The edges are brighter on the bottom up. I have pictures but I can't share them with you on TH-cam now that I look at them. Yes they do get worse
@@crashoverride576 I've seen it. It seems to me there's got to be an optical component inside the optical block that has become de-glued and is now tilted. Either that, or the lamp itself might not be properly aligned. But, if you didn't change lamps when this happened, then my best guess is the de-glued tilted lens/mirror inside the projector.
Hi, I just tried this to fix my epson projector and now whenever I turn it on the temperature light flashes right after it starts up. It also will only display green for a couple seconds before doing this, would anybody have any ideas on what I did wrong? The lense snapped into place, so I’m pretty sure the initial issue is fixed
Hi, this has happened to me once or twice. You must check if all the connections to the fans are properly plugged in. You can even unplug them and re-plug them.You can also take the fans out and tap on them gently with your fingers and put them back. Try this with the fans near the lamp at least. This is an issue more or less common with older Epson projectors even if they haven't suffered any intervention.
@@Eguitargeek Assuming the problem you're describing also happens when the projector menu is displayed (meaning it's not a problem related to the input connections), this sounds like the LCD ribbon cables took some abuse, or may not be plugged in correctly/completely. Unplug those and plug them again. Make sure you wear gloves and handle them with care.
Thanks! I tried reseating the cables but no luck. All the LCDs look active when I run it with the cover off. It’s primarily green for some reason. I guess I fried something, thanks for everything!
Hello, thank you for your great video. I have the same problem on an EPSON EB-1940W. I followed it because my EB-1940W is very like yours on the optical block and there was a red colouration in the bottom (about 10% of the height). After applying the same method, the default is displayed on about 50% of the height. Do you think the filter must instead be pulled up ?
I hope you are still around. I am so very thankful for this video. Your instructions were spot on. Thanks from Alberta, Canada. Peter
Awesome that it's helped you! Indeed I'm still around. Actually, right now I'm disassembling a very special projector: the Sim2 Mico 50. Cheers!
@@Descalabro How on earth did you find that?
Many thanks Tiago. I tried this repair on my 10 years old EPSON EH-TW5000. At some point I had thought that he had reached the end of his life and I should buy a new one. The only difference is that mine has two boards, one on top and one smaller on the bottom where the LCD cables are connected. At the only point where I had a hard time with was that I did not note the position of the Cinema filter when I removed them and so I was not sure about its position in the assembly. But I followed your instructions, and I aligned the end of the filter with the middle of the PLC lens an everything went well. No more horizontal red and blue bands. Thank you again.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this excellent video, I fixed my projector by following your instrutions. My old Epson has a new life.
I found an 8500UB at Goodwill for $25 - it had the exact problem except much worse. The projector was in a ceiling-mount configuration so this looked like it should be the fix. It was!! The whole process took less than an hour and now it looks as good as new! Thank you for taking the time to make a very good step-by-step video!!!
Awesome!
WOW absolutely amazing! Words cannot describe how ecstatic I am. I inherited a 10 year Epson 8500UB and had a large pink band on the bottom. Replaced the bulb and the bloody band was still there. Was gonna get a new unit and then projector gods smiled down on me and led me to your life saving video! That CLICK was the most beautiful sound I heard in awhile...
very glad to have helped you. Enjoy your projector!
A very informative and to-the-point guide. Useful for many more models than just those you show. A few notes I would add:
Users may need to make sure they raise the flaps of the auto-iris after putting it back in. Some models will give an "auto iris" warning as it expects them to be open on power on.
Users should check the placement of their UV filter before removing, and need to put the UV back where it was. Your model it was in the middle, but some models have the UV filter fully opened or fully closed, and not putting it back correctly can cause problems.
Otherwise, very good and thorough.
hi, thanks for the feedback. On this model, the flaps of the iris always perform a routine to reset their position. The UV filter does have sensors to check its boundaries. But, yes, we should always try to leave it the way it was before we disassembled it.
Thanks for the tutorial. I took mine apart for a few hours and did what you recommended and it did not work for me. Glad it worked for others- but my Blue and Red haze is still there.
Excuse me, I missed this message. You can send me photos of your issue to the e-mail descalabro@gmail.com
I've been living with a red line on top and a green line on bottom of my projector image for 3 years and now FINALLY all thanks to your video I fixed it in about an hour this afternoon. Picture looks perfect just like it did when I turned it on for the first time. Thank you for making this video!
Epson Home Cinema 6100*
Glad it helped you recover a great image!
Thank you so much!! My old Epson has just been given new life!! Your video makes the internet better!
Glad it helped you!
Just used these instructions for an epson procinema 9500UB. Was a bit different looking as there are 2 mother boards but I didn't have to remove the auto iris. All I needed was a small long screw driver. It worked perfectly, just push the little thingy til it clicks. Saved big $$$. Thank you!!!! The red and blue bands are completely gone!!
Yes, the UB models have a dedicated board for the LCD's.
Yeah I just did this on my 8700UB and also ran into 2 motherboards. I didn't remove the 2nd board or the auto-iris, but I removed the UV/infrared filter, pressed on the glass, and that fixed it! I realized, after putting it all back together, I could actually see the glass to press down from the lamp opening itself! If this ever happens again, I will carefully put pressure on the glass from the lamp opening without taking anything apart.
Great video! I have a similar problem on an Epson EH-TW5650 but it's vertical color drift on the left and right sides of the image (on a white background the image is fine white in the center but turns green on the left and right). Where do you think this could be coming from?
hi. If it's a sort of gradient color on the sides, there's a high probability the problem is polarizer filter that degraded from heat over time; nothing can be done about this except replacing the polarizers (easier to just buy another second-hand projector but make sure it's got no issues). If it's clear vertical bars on the side, there's likely an issue with alignment as shown in this video except the glass is misaligned to one side (not common at all). The lamp itself being misaligned could also cause this, but it's also not common to happen.
@@Descalabro Thanks for the information! In fact it's a video projector I bought second hand, and if what you say is correct I think the only solution would be to replace the polarizing filters (for example from another equivalent video projector). After disassembly, these filters seem to be burnt (there are black marks and quite a lot of dust).
You know something? You just saved my ass. Many many thanks from India.
Really glad it helped you. Cheer!
Just in case you forgot how helpful this video was….it still was amazingly helpful. Thanks for this amigo!!
Wish I would have tried this before buying a new lamp but hey…can’t win ‘em all!!
This is AMAZING! You just saved me $4500 that I was going to spend on a 77" OLED :-). Here, have a virtual beer LOL.
thanks for the comment. Although, that 77" would be much better in every regard except image size, hehe.
You sir are a genious. I have an EH-TW4400 with this problem but the top line was green and almost at 1/3 of the image and the bottom was pink.This method completely fixed my problem. Thank you.
Awesome! Glad you fixed it.
Huge thanks to you, Tiago. Your procedure fixed this exact issue with my 8500ub by following the excellent detailed walkthrough. I didn't hear much of a click when I pressed down firmly on the lens, but it seems to have resolved my issue anyway. Cheers from Ottawa ON, Canada.
glad it helped you!
Hallo sir , i have a vertical blue hue on the left and red hue on the right of my projected image , will this be a similar issue or something else ?
Appreciate
Hi. It sounds like a similar issue, except the square lens is probably misaligned to the side, laterally, instead of vertically. I can’t be sure of it, it might be something else misaligned.
Wish this was available the first time I took mine apart. Nice refresher for the second time around. Thanks!
I did this on my Epson 3020 for a red bar at bottom and blue at top. I heard the click and hoped for the best. Now instead of being at the bottom and top only it is spread over the entire picture and green seems to be there too.
Any ideas or suggestion? Did I push it down too far?
Thank so much for this video! I was almost about to throw away the projector I've had for 12 years. Thanks so much for saving the earth and our wallets and being able to repair what I own.
Wow? One of the best "How To" video I have seen. Thank you so much.
Thanks! Glad it helped you.
Hi, excellent video, I'm not sure if my epson 3020 have the same problem, I have photos but I can't uploaded here. Can you reply to my mail? Thank you and nice work.
Sure. Did you send me the email already? It’s descalabro@gmail.com
Outstanding job. This worked on my homecinema 6100 perfectly. From corporate garbage bin to backyard theater.
Awesome!
Do you have an EH-TW6100? I've been having the same problem with mine, but I was unsure if it this method would work on this model.
I have courageously taken apart an Epson Powerlite 1960, and was able to get as far as removing the motherboard, the next step, removing the "auto iris" seems to be too different from the model you demonstrated, and I was not sure how to proceed. I have two 1960's with the same aparent problem. One has the blue line in the bottom, horizontally, the other vertically on the left. Still, this was very informative. Thank you for your help.
Hi. I've never disassembled one of those smaller models, but according to this video, it seems to me there are 2 screws that hold a metal plate over the auto iris and the lens which you need to push on. th-cam.com/video/9ZN85H3KCQ4/w-d-xo.html
You may even be able to push on the lens without removing the iris. If you still can't do it, send me photos to descalabro@gmail.com
Well done! I have a serious pink band on the lower half on my Epson 3020 and am thinking about opening it up and seeing if there's a similar issue within. It kinda seems like this lens is now part of the bulb on that model. Am I correct?
hi Clinton. Excuse me for the late reply. I am not kowledgeable about the 3020, but it's somewhat common for the lamp module to include these kinds of lenses, which doesn't mean there aren't such lenses also inside the projector. I think that maybe you should send me a photo of the issue to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com.
Hello Tiago. I followed your video and was able to repair may Epson projector. I am really happy! Thanks for your help.
Thanks so much for this. I just repaired my projector this morning. Your instructions are so clear, it was actually a fair bit easier than I was expecting. I also put a tiny drop of glue on the edge of the filter once it as clicked back in to space hopefully to stop this happening again.
Great, i'm glad it helped. What kind of glue did you use? Be careful, that lens gets extremely hot, and not every glue will react well to intense heat.
A single dot of cyanoacrylate glue, ie super glue. I just did some reading and you’re right, that glue can catch fire! It’s only one drop so even if it does hopefully it won’t cause lasting damage. I probably should have used a hot glue gun (there was already some of that glue on the filter).
@@danielwatson5334 Well, a single drop should burn off very quickly. It's just that super glue will release gases that cause stains long after it's dry. But, being a single drop, it should be OK.
You are a lifesaver Sir! I can’t thank you enough! Now I have a brand new projector. Great tutorial!
Glad it helped you!
Just did exactly as you did on my 8500ub. For some reason it just wont power on anymore. Idk what happened. I was extremely careful and followed almost identically to your video. Any idea what could've happened?
Did you ever fix it ?
@@Unfixingprawn I did, still use it today. But I honestly do not remember how.
@@zainmunirr nice thank you dawg glad to see it's still kickin
Thank you so much!!! I've been living with this issue for 3 years. Your fix solved it. Thanks for all the effort you put into this video...
thebunnyrules I’m glad it helped you!
This is excellent. Going to try it on my 8700UB that's had a discoloration band on top since a third-party bulb popped inside. I assume the blast shook this out of place.
Yes, that's likely to happen. The UB models have an additional board under the main board. LCD cables connect to this additional board. I'm not sure you will need to remove it.
@@Descalabro You were right! There was a second board under the first. I started to remove it, but noticed I could access the filter cover without having to. I removed the filter and pressed down on the lens without removing the auto-iris. That fixed it! One thing that confused me was where to position the filter -- it could be put anywhere the teeth could grab, and I wasn't sure what position it was in when I took it out. Does the position you insert the filter matter, or does the gear automatically recalibrate the position?
Another thing, as I was putting it back together, I noticed I could actually see the glass to press down simply by removing the lamp cover. Yes, it was very close to the filter, but with precision, I suspect you could fix the whole problem without taking anything apart -- though you risk damaging the filter or something, I guess.
Oh, it looks like you did specify where the UV/infrared filter needs to be positioned -- halfway. I guessed randomly where to put it and, since it works, looks like I guessed correctly!
@@glr See at 08:36 how I suggest you place it. I think it will align itself when the projector starts as long as you place it between the 2 white tabs that detect it on each side. The position I suggested here is the same the projector sets when shutting off.
@@glr Yes. Only saw this after I replied to your previous comment.
Totally fixed my band issue. Now months later I turn on projector and system goes into overheat protection mode even though it is cold. It is an intermittent problem, but occurs more often than not, and once it happens, it keeps happening. I suspect thermistor.
Glad it fixed your banding issue. The overheat problem is usually caused by a fan acting up. Thermistor fail is much less common. The issue is usually fixed by removing the fans, clean the dust out or tapping on them a little, and putting them back. Often, just the action of taking them out and putting them back again solves the issue. I don't know why, but it happened somewhat frequently when I had these projector models.
Thank you Tiago for this great help video. I have an EH-TW5900 with a very large red band (one fifth of screen) and a smaller green band at the top. Do you know if this click of the lense trick might work on my projector as well? I couldn't find a video for this model. Thanks again.
hi, Bruce. you're welcome. It's likely that the same procedure will fix it, although you may have to press on more than one square lens. Check this video for an issue more similar to yours:
th-cam.com/video/xYlWnTg7QIA/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyGmRZwkTNB4tZFiGB4AaABAg.9RLXA916vX39RLZcIxrJuc
As for the model, it's not the same as yours, but the procedure is fairly similar. You just have to pay attention to notice where that screws and cables are.
Thanks! This helped us fix our blue/red bands on our projector!
awesome!
Rapaz! Estava atrás dessa solução a meses! Muito obrigado!
This worked on my 8500UB. Thank you so so so much for making this video
Excellent!
Awesome video. There were some differences with my 8700UB with 2 motherboards and need to remove extra screws to open the top cover. Otherwise, worked great. It saved me $3k from having to buy a new projector.
Yeah, the UB models have a dedicated board for the LCD's. Glad the video helped you.
Thank you kind Sir!. I just got this exact projector for free and it had that reddish bar on top. Did just as you showed in the video, Pushed the lens down by approx 0,5mm and now it is like new! 5/5 Would fix again with this tutorial! You are the best! I hope all the good in the world to you man :p
Glad to have helped!
Thanks a lot man, i just fixed my TW3500 by following your video. One small tip i would recommend to save your finger and fingernails, is that when you take out the cables from the motherboard - once you've moved the connector and there is a tiny gap between the male / female-connection, i used a tiny screwdriver and then moved it carefully to create leverage - the connector literally takes a few seconds to get out this way and you won't have sore fingers.
I'm glad it helped you. :) I thought about doing that, but I was somewhat afraid to break or bend any of the tiny pins in the connection. I'll try that out next time. Thanks. And cheers!
I see what you mean. As long as you don't try to stick it all the way in but wiggle at the edge there should be no risk. The leverage in the right spot makes it pop out super quickly.
Thank you so much for the video! I had a large red band on the bottom about 1/3 the screen, and green on the top 1/3. Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 2000. Took it apart very similar to your video layout, and push the lens down with a loud click just like you showed! So excited. But when I reassembled and turned it on, now my color issues have flipped, with red on top and green on bottom, each 1/3 of the screen. Did I push it too far?
hi. You're welcome. Well, this "click" issue should not cause bands that take up 1/3 of the screen each. That would likely be a more severe misalignment, I suppose. Are you sure the projector wasn't turned upside down before you opened it and then you tested it standing on its feet after reassembly? My point is, it's possible that the 1/3 screen color bands are caused by another issue. Once it clicks, it should have nowhere else to move, unless your model has more space under the lens that clicked. I've seen this severe issue of color bands happen because of a lamp (or lamp encasing) not being horizontal and parallel to the projector. You can send me some photos of the issue to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com.
@@tiagojordao4105 email sent thank you!
Great info, thank you. I am going to take my PowerLite 8350 apart and see if I can fix magenta spots (out of focus magenta dots). I can see them on white image. When I adjust focus I can focus on these magenta dots all over the screen. Would you happen to have an idea what the problem is and what shall I fix? Would highly appreciate you help. Thank you!
hi, thanks. Those spots can be focused because they are dust (or other) particles directly on the surface of the LCD panel (or on the nearby polarizer filter panel). Now, there are 3 LCD panels, each with its own polarizer filter panel. Dust goes there because the ventilation air blows directly there. If the dots are magenta, that likely means the spots are on the GREEN LCD panel. Anyway, as a first step, you can turn on the 'high altitude mode' on the projector menu, to see if they get dislodged (unlikely). Otherwise, the usually way is to open the projector, remove the optical block, and then blow compressed air (with a moist filter) in a tangential direction to each of the LCD panels and polarizer filter panels. If you need more detailed help, send me some images first to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com
@@Descalabro thank you! What images do you mean? Of the spots or when I disassemble the projector? I am a bit nervous to take it apart after watching your video, so I don't screw the whole projector up.
@@russella5296 I mean photos of the projected image on screen, with the magenta spots. Try the high altitude mode first. Leave it on for a while. Watch a movie or something.
I'm on my 2nd Epson 8100 because i was getting color bleed at the top or bottom of the screen, not as defined as the bar you showed in the video, but i'm wondering if it could be the same problem. This replacement is now getting the same problem, not a full defined line, just yellow bleeding up from the bottom of the screen when i show a white image. I guess i'll give this a shot and see if it goes away.
Hi,
unless it's a kind of band or thick line from one side to the other, it's not the same issue. Issues of spots and stains are usually caused by either a faulty polarizer filter or a faulty LCD panel.
@@Descalabro How did those bands appear on your projector? Did you just turn it on one day and it was there or did it gradually go from not bad to a full band? My problem seems to gradually be getting worse the more i use the projector and may end up being a band or line at the bottom of the screen. I wonder if that messed up lens is slowly working itself out with every heat cycle and i'll ultimately end up with the same band at the bottom of my screen.
@@FXTdriver Hi,
the reason why this happens is heat. For example, sometimes there is a heat release when a lamp dies inside the projector, and it moves that square lens; or when the projector is upside down, just regular heat will displace that lens.
As for your situation, as long as it is a regular straight band, it's very likely the cause is this square lens.
@@Descalabro Yea looking at your band, i suspect my lense is just slowly working itself out because the yellow is getting worse and bigger across the whole bottom of the screen, and it looks like there's red following it.
@@FXTdriver if you want, you can send me a photo of it to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com
preferably, using an all white image.
Thanks for the video. I have an Epson tw5500 with the same color band issue. main board however is different from yours. mine has a double layer. but the lens issue fix is exactly the same. thanks a lot.
You're welcome. Glad it helped you.
good video.... i have an issue in color gun. I have miss-placed colored lenses in it. Kindly, what is the correct places for them? thanks.....
Muhammad Yaseen thanks. Not all projectors have the same configuration. Epson projectors usually look like this images.app.goo.gl/tyJnoFdv61B5gYFdA you need to place a flashlight in the place of the lamp and try to obtain this color separation
This is an amazing video, I'm so happy I found this. Would you happen to know where I can find additional parts for this projector? It is an Epson 7500UB, I suspect the blue Dichroic Glass in my projector has burned up as the blue is severely lacking in the final picture.
hi. Sorry for the late reply. I seriously doubt the burn on the dichroic glass would affect one color only. Anyway, if you can actually see the glass iso burned, you can try to clean it (or, are you talking about one of the colored glasses inside the lightpath?). If you want to get parts for it, I suggest this german vendor at www.gedat-spareparts.com/index.php , or I can try to find a chinese vendor for you.
I have an Epson Home Cinema 2100. It is hanging upside down and the projected image has a red band on the bottom, and blue band on the top. Is it possible to push down on that faulty lens without opening the entire thing up? I emailed you the photo of my Bulb Changing opening. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO Tiago!! I hope to try it after I gather some time and courage.
Hi Don. Here'ws my reply to your e-mail:
"I don't know if this model also has two square lenses as the one in my video, but, it's likely it has, because it's common to see two of them in LCD-based projectors. I would say the lens on your photo is not the same as the one in my video. It's actually the one that's closer to the lamp. In any case, it's not possible to set it in place without opening the projector. Even if you somehow squeeze in something thin and rigid to apply pressure on it, you'll risk breaking the lens because pressure should be applied uniformly (not in a single point). You might be able to press on the square lens without having to remove as many parts as I did, however.
As for your second question, EPSON is the only one I know that has lenses sliding down because of heat. However, I've seen other LCD-based projectors developing similar issues because of heat (not necessarily upside-down) where other lenses/mirrors in the optical system have shifted and caused color issues. The safest bet against such issues is to have a DLP projector instead of LCD, but that's not to say DLP projectors don't develop problems of their own.
Cheers!
Worked for my red/pink bar at the bottom of the screen. Great guide. Thanks
Great!
Great video thanks. Saved my projector.
Hi friend. Do you have any idea why a square-shaped stain is formed?
Great Guide and well detail..I have an Epson 8350 that has a thin vertical red line at the far right of the projector screen does this solution aplly to it or else ?
Thanks. About your question, this solution does not apply. In the video I corrected the vertical alignment of a squared lens to make those horizontal bars disappear. A vertical line, however, would require a horizontal alignment correction, but that is not at all common on this lens, although it may occasionally happen in other optical elements. But that's not all: a vertical line, if very sharp and straight, may be caused by a faulty electronic contact. So, you can send me a good photo of the issue and maybe I can point you in the right direction. tiagoljordao@gmail.com
Did the vertical line get fixed? I’m curious about this as this appears to be caused by a different issue
this video helped me fix my 8500UB with the red/blue bands. Thanks so much!!!!
I'm glad it helped you.
Just a few days ago I started noticing two horizontal pink/magenta bands, rather subtle, along the extreme top and bottom of the screen. They look like the same dimension as 16:9 letterbox bands. I have an Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that's just short of a year old. I wonder if mine has the same problem addressed in the video. Mine is mounted upside down. All operational lights are normal.
Hello Tiago, thank you in advance for your help.
I have an Epson 3020 Home Cinema, and it has a red tint band at the bottom since the last bulb died. The assembly looks different than the video you showed, would this tutorial still apply?
Thank you in advance for your help
Hi Bruno. You're welcome. If the red band is consistent along the width of the image, and if it's not too thick (if it's close to the edge), then it should be the same issue.
@@Descalabro Thank you Tiago. It is at the bottom edge. It goes away if I change the keystone vertical setting to tilt it. My concern is that when I open up the projector, the assembly will be different and I won't be able to find my way around..
Great guide. I heard that this problem might come back, maybe we should put a drop of glue? But what kind of glue?
Thanks. It's likely to happen again if the projector is upside down. An industrial epoxy should do it. Read this:
«UPDATE 4/21/2016 ---- I hang my projector from the ceiling. I should have known the lens would slip out of position. In 2 months, the lines reappeared. I fixed it again but this time I used a hobby knife and gently and meticulously removed the soft, rubbery glue that's supposed to hold the lens in place.
I then got out my "Bob Smith Industries" industrial epoxy and used a toothpick to dab the corners and work the epoxy into the crevice where the original glue once was. I rigged up a way to put 5 lbs of pressure on the lens and left it to cure overnight. It's been holding in place really well so far.»
Source: sites.google.com/site/troyinphoenix/
@@Descalabro Fantastic guide. This is exactly my problem also, as I hang my projector from the ceiling. I have fixed it once, but came back several months later. Can you tell me what type of industrial epoxy you used, as there are several BSI adhesive types within that category? Also, I'm not sure I'm clear wear you are putting the epoxy, is it easy to see where the original epoxy was applied to the lens? Thanks in advance, as this has been a frustration for me for quite a while.
@@krdoll01 Thanks for the comment. I never had to use the epoxy because I used this projector on its feet. You may check this link for more details about the epoxy fix: sites.google.com/site/troyinphoenix/
Great video! Just bought used tw2900 and it has reddish band on the bottom of the image. It's been installed on the ceiling so it might have this same problem.
Hi. Thank you for the comment. If it is a straight band (and not an irregular haze), then it's probably this issue.
@@Descalabro I just realized that because I'm also using it with the ceiling mount, the band is really on top of the image, just like in the video.
So many thanks I made the procedure and it worked perfectly. The poblem in the future can reappear or not. However the projector is like new. A thousand thanks again for your excellent video.
You're welcome. If the projector is upside down, it's likely to happen again; unless you glue the lens using some high temperature epoxy glue.
@@Descalabro
141/5000
the projector is in normal position, but if it happens again, I can do the video procedure again or not? A thousand thanks again
@@salvuswallas Sure, you can do it whenever the lens pops out again. If it's in normal position, it shouldn't pop out again unless there is a sudden energy release, such as a bulb failing or blowing. You're welcome.
Home cinema 2000. I have blue on the top and right and red at the left and bottom. Mine is similar to this but not quite.
It all began within a month of changing the bulb the first time. I find it hard to believe it's a coincidence. It started with a very faint discoloration and over the course of a few days the colors got darker and darker. The bulb is aftermarket and I've tried two others and same deal.
I've disassembled it many times while adjusting the mirrors, then checking it to no avail. I pushed down as hard as I could on that particular lens and it didn't budge, I don't know what else to do.
Otherwise it works and I've been using it, it's just is aggravating having distorted colors.
hi. Are they bars of color or more like soft gradients? What you're describing could be the lamp not properly aligned with the optical elements. I've seen a case like this once.
@@Descalabro Definitely a soft gradient. There is a rectangle in the middle where it doesn't reach where the colors are fine.
Hi Tiago! Thank you very much, really! Your tutorial has been so useful for us. We´ve got two projectors (Epson 1945W) with the exactly same issue. The first one got fixed by following your steps. It was amazing! But when we tryied to fix the second one, i think that we pressed the lens much more than we should had pressed. Now, the blue band dissapeared, but the red one ocuppies half of the image. I wanted to put the lens upper, but it is so hard to move it. Have you got any idea or reccomendation to fix this problem? Thank you so much
Hi Mariana. I have replied to your e-mail. It took me a while, but I have. Good luck.
@@Descalabro thank you!!! I hadn´t seen it before!!!! I´ll try doing what you suggest. thanks :)
@@Mariana-fy3jw And what was the suggestion? Did you manage to fix this? I have the same problem now :(
thanks so much, this is very helpful, in the case of my Epson 8100, I found that after removing auto-iris, that lens can be pushed down without removing that cinema filter (6:53) (that lens can be accessed from lamp side, right under the cinema filter top mental bar).
you're welcome. Yes, on some models it's possible to do the push without removing the cinema filter.
Have observed a greyish black horizontal band similar to the upper black bar in the video presentation. Does not dampen video quality. But is it a matter of concern as it can be observed only on certain frames?
sorry for the late reply. Well, the reason why it can only be observed on certain frames might be because it only affects one or two of the colors. If it can be seen with a completely white image, then it means all colors are affected.
@@Descalabro Can u send me your mail i. D? I will send a snap of the same to you.
@@dr.tissonjob5707 descalabro@gmail.com
@@Descalabro Thanks a lot Tiago!
Hello! Excellent video. I have a 5020 with horizontal red lines across just the left side of the image only. They appear all the way from top to bottom of the image. I saw another commenter had a 5020 that you gave advice to, but my problem seems a bit different. Any chance you think it might be a similar issue? Guess I don’t have much to lose to open it and try it out. Thanks!
hi Doug. I have replied to your e-mail.
oh my lord just watching the process of this is giving me anxiety i have a projector epson 8100 and i have to do this
because it has the same issue hopefully it works or money wasted... but great video very great instuctions
Thanks! Make sure you’ve got all the tools: long screwdriver with magnetic tip, an additional long magnet to fish screws if you need to, latex gloves, and preferably electronic chip extractor tweezers (this will make it really easier). Don’t do anything you don’t feel right. Go slowly, you’ll be fine.
just did the repair it worked !! its running great now thank you !
Tiago -- this is an incredibly useful instructional video. I have a 7500 that has a greenish cast in the upper right hand corner of the screen. Do you think that might be related to the light path or something else? How to share a photo of it with you?
Thanks. If it has a discoloration on a corner, it's more likely one of the colour filters inside has started to wear out. You can send me photos to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com so I can check it. Preferably with a plain white image.
Hi Tiago.... I have an Epson Projector TW8300 3LCD and for quite a time I am getting to see this vertical lines on left side of the screen sometimes it's 1or 2 or max 4. Kindly punch in your details to share the image for reference.
Thanks buddy & Great share by you.
Hi Yash. If the lines are not always there, it means it's probably a bad contact with the LCD cables. You can send me photos to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com
I don't get it... just pushing the part down fixed the problem? I have a shadowy / slighty reddish horizontal band on top of my screen (Epson EHTW6600)... do you think it can be the same issue?
excuse me for the late reply. I've been too busy. The reason why pushing the lens down solves the problem is that the misaligned lens causes a vertical deviation in the light beam, and so it becomes a bit diagonal instead of horizontal. When you put the lens back into place, the light beam goes horizontally again.
Regarding your question, maybe it is the same problem. You can send me photos to descalabro@gmail.com. Better use a white image.
Это очень полезный урок для меня. У моего проектора 8500UB давно эта проблема. Внизу красная полоса, вверху зеленая (проектор подвешен вверх ногами). В ближайшее время попробую отремонтировать. Спасибо!
пожалуйста
Thank you for the awesome video! Do you think this would work for a related red/blue color banding issue: The projector bulb exploded in an Epson 3020. After changing to a new bulb, I see some subtle defuse color bands. They are most visible as blue on the left edge and red on the right edge. This is most noticeable as there's a drop in brightness on both the right and left edges.
Also there's a harder to notice horizontal blue band about 1/6th of the vertical size of the screen and about 1/10th of the way down from the top. Similar sized red band 1/10th of the way from the bottom.
Any ideas if your procedure would fix this?
Much appreciated!
Thanks for your kind comment. So, when a bulb bursts inside a projector there's a sudden heat release which can affect inner lens alignment or, in the worse and rare cases, burn optical parts. If what you're describing are straight and regular bands of color, either vertical or horizontal, it's likely there was some misalignment caused by the burst bulb. So, better send me some photos of a projected white image to tiagoLjordao@gmail.com so I can take a better look at it.
Tiago Jordão I have the similar issue after changing the bulb. Can I send you an email including the picture as well ?
I have exactly the problem of the video in my TW3500. I've just changed the lens but the red-green horizontal band above and the green band below remain. I would like to venture into disassembling the projector. So at the end, just lower the lens with force and that's it. Everything is solved.
Hi! Yes, just push the lens down until it makes a low click sound. If I'm not mistaken, the projector in this video is the TW3500.
This is a great video. Do you think this will work on a 8350 powerlite? I’ve had light vertical lines in the middle of my projector screen for a while. They are very close together but very light. Any thoughts? Plus occasionally I get an auto iris error with some ticking noises when using the projector. Any help will be very appreciated. Thanks
Hello Jesus Castle. Very sorry for the very late reply. The issue you're describing sounds like it's caused by a fault on the image signal sent through the LCD cables. It's not fixable by following the procedure in this video.
Hello, if you have a vertical blue line that appears at start up and sometimes remains for a few minutes then disappears or sometimes remains, is it the same cause or something else? Thanks
hi. You're probably talking about a sharp line, that affects one or more columns of pixels from top to bottom. This likely means there is a faulty contact between the main board and one of the LCD panels. Usually, it's a problem with the LCD cable. with some luck, it can be fixed by unplugging and replugging said cable (probably the cable to the RED color LCD, based on what you're saying).
@@Descalabro Thanks for the quick response, much appreciated, have a great day.
WOW. Thanks man. You just saved me $3k followed exactly. So grateful!!!!
You're welcome. Glad it helped you!
thiago. pelo que entendi, sem ler todas as respostas, e que se trata de um desalinhamento da lente apenas (aquela multifacetada) e nao o filtro. e isto? meu epson 935 apresenta uma faixa rosa no topo. obrigado.
exacto, o filtro não causa faixas.
@@Descalabromeu epson 935W tem 2 lentes destas. qual seria? a lente no 1 (branca transparente). fez o click. a lente no. 2 (multicolorida) parece estar colada e nao se move. fiz o procedimento e continuou igual o problema. alguma sugestao? ou outra causa?
@@Descalabro nao seria o caso de levantar a lente ao inves de empurrar para baixo? ou a imagem e invertida nesta lente?
Great Job! The pink lines at the top of the screen disapeared.
One comment : Is the position of the filter (at 8:37) depending on the color mode (or another option) I used before opening the device ? It seems the global display for the white color is a bit yellow after repairing.
Hi. Glad you liked the video. Don't you mean the filter at 07:41, perhaps? This filter will be moved into position, that is, in front of the lamp, when using cinema modes (and perhaps one more mode which namr I don't recall), but even if you use a dynamic mode, it will be moved into position before turning off the projector.
Anyway, none of the parts where I touched should cause any yellowing, unless the image has a tendency to green, in which case the red overtones of the filter might cause somewhat of a yellow tone, but very faint. Yellow spots or stains are usually caused by stains or worn-out areas on the polarizer glasses, either on the lightpath or near the LCD's.
Is it a general and uniform yellow, or is it more like a stain/haze? If it's uniform, try to raise color temperature to 6000K, or even 6500K.
Finally, the yellowing was due to a mismatch between the ribbon cable and the motherboard connector for the Blue color. Thanks for yours advices.
@@vincentfortoul2258 oh yeah, I didn't even think about the LCD cables. Goo thinking. Cheers!
Tiago hi! mate I just found this exact EH-TW3500 projector at the dump complete with remote control! I was wondering if you could give me a bit of guidance. I turned it on and it had definitely been used upside down off a ceiling. It also has the Red and blue/greenish horizontal hue lines. So I went into the menu and corrected it for shelf mode. But instead of thin lines on top and bottom of the screen the red and the blueish hues take up about a third of the screen each. Like the top third of the screen is a red hue, the middle (2nd third) of the screen is perfect, and the bottom third is a blue hue. Could this be the same problem mate but just really exaggerated? I'd love to get this going. I have extensive experience doing these kind of involved fixes :) Any help you could hive would be muchly appreciated :) Cheers Isky
Hello. Well, what you're describing may be more than just a misalignment, the same lens that is misaligned in this video might be entirely tilted. Those red and blue lines, are they very regular and sudden, or are they like a gradient? Anyway, you can follow the procedure in this video at least and see if the lens clicks down. But, before that, look closely to understand if any of the lenses shown on the video have become loose. Another thing you want to check is the lamp module, more precisely, check if the lamp and its module are sitting horizontally as they should. I've seen image issues such as the one you describe being caused by a lamp not being horizontal as it should.
@@Descalabro Thanks so much for your reply Tiago! I'll open it up and take a look. But I think I might even send you and email of a picture first. I would class them as a gradient? Not sudden/hard edges. The edges are definitely soft/blurry. I'll check out the lamp module first though. Although I did notice that the lamp does say it has 1200 hours on it so I reckon if it was installed wrong they probably wouldn't have put up with this fault for such a long time :) Anyway I might shoot you an email and see what you think. I'll also reply here once I've worked things out in case it helps others :)
Mate I fixed it! It was exactly the same thing that you did in this video. Except I think I heard 2 clicks where as your had the single click. I took a lot of footage of me doing it so when I create my new TH-cam chanel I'll upload it and let you know :D Thanks so much for all your help buddy I can't thank you enough!
is this any epson projector? I stupidly bought one 2nd hand thinking i was getting a bargain and it suffers from the color banding. Great video btw.
hi. Thanks. Details of the disassembling process might vary, but it's essentially the same for any lamp-based Epson projector, although the ones with this design have this problem more often than others. Is it a color banding similar to what's shown in the video?
I just did it today ! Thanks to you !
I'm glad it helped you.
So, is the banding caused by that last lens being loose? How does it become loose?
This seems like a scary amount of pulling apart my projector, but, cheaper than replacing it.
Is this something that's going to happen again? I've had my 2100 for almost 2 years and the bars showed up about a week ago.
It happens mostly because of heat generated from the projector, and mostly when the projector is upside-down. Also happens when a bulb bursts inside the projector. So, if yours is upside-down, it's likely to happen again, unless you use a strong epoxy resign to glue it into place.
@@Descalabro Yikes! Mine is upside-down. And my model is different than yours, so I imagine screws and sockets are placed elsewhere. All of the comments below suggest that this is fix easily works, but the amount of taking it apart is daunting. I'm worried I'll do something wrong and then have a broken projector.
@@poxyclypse Well, the simple answer is that if you don't feel at least a bit comfortable about the idea then you shouldn't try it. The more complex answer is that most of these projectors are more or less the same inside, with screws not in the same place nor the same amount, but not too far from it either. The HC 2100 is a bit smaller than this one, so it's expected that parts will be closer together. I can try to provide you a complete diagram for it, but that will probably scare you more at first.
@@Descalabro I realized that if it's gravity and heated glue that caused the trouble, I reconfigured and have the projector right-side-up, and the problem has almost completely vanished. Thank you for your information and kind words.
@Tiago Jordão
Update: It's been nine hours of having the projector right-side-up, and the color bands are completely gone. My solution will not address those who have theirs mounted from the ceiling, but, I was able to flip my 2100 onto a lower shelf and everything has returned to normal.
My problems were -
1: projector flipped.
2: not good ventilation above
3: quarantine having me put it into use, continuously, for more than 10 hour a day.
So, my projector was upside-down, overuse and poor ventilation created heat which melted the glue, gravity conspired, lens slid.
Thanks again for your insights.
what is an auto iris??? what its working??? Is every projector has auto iris????
Great, awesome, helpful video. I have the blue and green lines as shown in your video on my Epson 5020UB. Do you think it will it be a similar disassembly? And how did that lens pop outta place I wonder? Thanks!
Hi Jim. Glad you like the video. The Epson 5020UB is a more complex projector, so there may be more cables and boards to disassemble. At least one extra board below the one I disassembled in this video. But the basic structure is the same. Here's a diagram of one similar to yours: www.gedat-spareparts.com/ex/eh_tw9200w.pdf Still, go slowly and remember there may be an extra board.
As for your question about the lens, it probably the heat that makes it pop out, especially if the projector is upside down. Good luck.
Tiago Jordão wow! Thanks for that!!!
Thanks again Tiago! I printed diagram you provided to place screws appropriately, that helped, and took pics and video along the way. Very similar tear down as your video. Only one main board too. I did not however feel a click when reseating lens but noticed assembly seemed lose. After finishing color bands were gone. This wouldn’t have been possible without your generosity and kicking my cat outta the house! Now I can sell my 5020UB since I upgraded to the 5050
I have vertical “lines” or foggy spots in my picture. It’s on a eh-tw5500. On left side of the picture it’s more red/orange in middle it’s neutral and on right side more blue/cold color. Will this repair fix that problem too? By the way, fantastic video👍🏻
Hi. Thanks. If you mean there is a reddish haze on the left side and a blueish haze on the right side, that's a common issue on LCD projectors. It's caused by degradation of the polarizer filter, caused by heat, usually the blue polarizer filter. The only way to fix that is to replace the polarizer filter.
However, if you are talking about actual vertical straight bars, which is unlikely, then it's caused by a horizontal misalignment or tilt in one of the many glasses on the lightpath. I've seen this problem on JVC and Panasonic projectors, but never on an Epson, and it doesn't seem to be the issue you're describing.
Tiago Jordão. Thanks, it’s a haze as you say( didn’t know the English word for it🙈) Do you know if this filter is possible to get somewhere and is it a easy way to change it?
I have sent you an e-mail with the contact to purchase the polarizer filter from China. But before you spend money on it make sure there's actually a problem with the blue polarizer. Project a black image and see if it looks dark blue in some areas (or maybe even the whole screen area) If it doesn't look dark blue, then the blue polarizer should be ok, but it will be more difficult to know which polarizer to replace. Make the room as dark as possible for this test.
Tiago Jordão You are a genius man👍🏻 Thanks for your fast reply😊
@@Descalabro I also have the issue of a large haze of blue on the left size, and an orange haze on the right side. So I think it's the polarizer filter. Can you provide the link to order it from China? Thanks!!
Thx for this Video, with it i was able to fix my Beamer. It now works like it did, as i bought it.
*I also replaced my old lamp to improve the Picture.
Good!. Glad it helped you.
Thanks for the instructional video! I followed to the letter (except mine is a 7500 UB and had an additional board to remove) and everything went smoothly. Unfortunately, when powering back up, the two red warning lights (lamp and temp) come on and the internal cooling fans run at full blast. Can’t turn it off with the power button, have to unplug it to shut it off. Any idea as to what went wrong?
Never mind, operator error! Cracked it back open and found a couple of possible culprits. One was two adjacent leads that may have gotten crossed at the termination point where the jacketing didn’t extend far enough to protect them. The other was where the two boards connect together. While everything went together, I didn’t realize they connected together at that point. They may not have been fully connected after the first reassembly. Live and learn!
@@kennethmcgee8858 Yep, that's usually the issue when you reassemble something and a new issue appears. Glad you liked the video!
meu epson 935W tem 2 lentes destas. qual seria? a lente no 1 (branca transparente). fez o click. a lente no. 2 (multicolorida) parece estar colada e nao se move. fiz o procedimento e continuou igual o problema. alguma sugestao? ou outra causa? nao seria o caso de levantar a lente ao inves de empurrar para baixo? ou a imagem e invertida nesta lente?
Hey awesome video.. thanks for your work! I have an Epson HC 3700.. and i have more of a red glow on black/dark backgrounds. For example.. Andoid TV background is black with a grey gear in the top right.. that grey gear has a red glow all around it. (My HC 2040 doesn't do this with same source).. or right now as I'm typing this the video is paused and the background is all black.. but the left edge of the black background has a red glow. The issue seems to be worst on the left, right edges.. and a little bit top and bottom.. and pretty much non-existent the closer you get to the center. Any suggestions on what the issue might be and would this potentially resolve the issue? Thanks a lot for your time! :D
Hi. Thanks for the comment! Visible glow on dark images may be caused by dust accumulation. On this case, on the RED LCD panel. Try moving the focus ring to focus on the glowing blobs. If you succeed on focusing, then it means it's indeed dust. If you can't focus on the glow, send me some photos of it to descalabro@gmail.com
Great video! Perfect to follow along!
Solid video my man I followed this to a T and my screen came back to me brand new
Glad it helped you.
Tiago Jordão hey man it came back I think I need to glue it can I fully remove the lens and glue the bottom and stick her in? Or is that dangerous to the projector
Very informative video Tiago - thanks for uploading it! I am thinking of performing the same fix on my TW 9300 (6040UB in the U.S if I'm not mistaken); although I am not 100% certain that the issue is the same (and also out of fear of damaging the projector, which is still relatively new, but not covered by warranty)
I have a (horizontal) tint on the top part of the image. It is more of a "dim" band (almost like an "OSD-overlay"), and is not always visible. It mainly depends on the color (green is affected). It is very slightly reddish though. I have not as yet seen any image fault on the lower part of the picture (*knock wood*)
Do you think the issue I am having is the same? (I know my description probaly isn't the best)
I am a bit skeptical since it was mentioned that it should not be an issue on newer home cinema models, which the TW 9300 certainly is. I have previously opened up an Epson projector though (a TW 9000), which developed a *vertical* blue line. That was thought to be related to the ribbon cable for the blue LCD panel (but obviously wasn't). No motherboard had to be removed on that one, which is why I attempted it...
Thanks again for the video.
hi. Thanks for the comment. Better send me a photo of the projected image to TiagoLJordao@gmail.com
Make sure to project an all white image with the whole screen visible, or one with a color that can make the color band more visible.
@@Descalabro This took me a bit longer than expected - as the issue was harder to capture on camera than I thought; but I've sent some pics and two video clips to you now.
i have the exact same issue with my TW6600, was your prob solved by this technique?
Thanks great Vid. will try this on my 8500. Helpful to is to hit the Ribbon cables with some Deoxit 4/5 while your in there.
Thank. Glad you liked it. May be, but experience tells me I shouldn't try to fix what's not broken, which I did in the past with very bad results. If I had some vertical pixel lines, I would surely use that cleaner, but otherwise I'll just leave those contacts alone. Cheers.
on mine I have vertical banding. What would I need to do for that?
I wonder if this also applies to the TW2900. It looks almost identical to the TW3500 in this video. My bulb blew and after replacing it, I noticed a blueish hue band on the top part of the image. Bottom still seems fine though.
Yes, it's identical. The first time I did this was on a TW2900. Good luck.
@@Descalabro Well, it worked. Was an easy fix after all. I also replaced the lamp while I was at it, as the old one flickered annoyingly. Thank you for the informational video, it was very helpful.
@@vibingwithvinyl Great,glad_to_help.
Tried this and, uh, I accidentally broke the lens. What is the lens called so I can order a new one.
wonderful, but I have same problem with old model of eLUX EX2010, red band is occupied my screen like a big dot also. What should i do? early response will be appreciated, please.
Hi. I really don't know about that model. Send me some photos of the issue and maybe I can advise. descalabro@gmail.com
@@Descalabro very soon, you will receive a briefly issue.
I have a faulty Epson Eh-tw9000W projector which projects a faulty image with half the screen Image having a blue haze to it. I would appreciate your advice as to what is causing the fault and a possible fix if it feasibly worthwhile. Thanks
Hi. It's a haze and not a clear straight blue band, right?
@@Descalabro Hello, it's a blue haze that covers half the image on the screen. I have sent two images to your Gmail address so you can see the issue. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Tiago! Would this fix apply if the blue and red bands are vertical at the edges, not horizontal? It's a TW6000.. I could send you a photo if it helps!?
I have the same problem on my 6100. Did you get a fix?
hello Tiago, i have a issue with my epson tw-5200 projector, could you try do help me figure out the reason of the problem? do you have an email for me send you some pictures? thank you, i am from brazil
Olá. Ok, podes enviar para tiagoLjordao@gmail.com
hi tiago sir i have epson eb-x92 its working perfect but the red colour is missing in projection blue and green is ok, what to do? pls help
I got a free projector (TW3200) and the colours are split, sort of looks like the red and blue 3D effect. (But with the LED colours)
I checked this lens and it was cracked in half, I pulled it out and the image looks the same.
Do you have any idea on what it could be?
Thansk
Question. I have an Epson 3010 and I have the same red and blue bleed but mine is on the right and left side of the screen. Blue is on the left and red is on the right. My projector is ceiling mounted. Any suggestions??
hi. That's indicative of a horizontal misalignment or tilt, rather than a vertical misalignment as in the video. Are those red and blue bleeds thin, or more like a wide gradient becoming worse towards the edges?
@@Descalabro they are wide. The edges are brighter on the bottom up. I have pictures but I can't share them with you on TH-cam now that I look at them. Yes they do get worse
@@crashoverride576 ok, send to descalabro@gmail.com
@@Descalabro email sent. Thank you.
@@crashoverride576 I've seen it. It seems to me there's got to be an optical component inside the optical block that has become de-glued and is now tilted. Either that, or the lamp itself might not be properly aligned. But, if you didn't change lamps when this happened, then my best guess is the de-glued tilted lens/mirror inside the projector.
Hi,
I just tried this to fix my epson projector and now whenever I turn it on the temperature light flashes right after it starts up. It also will only display green for a couple seconds before doing this, would anybody have any ideas on what I did wrong? The lense snapped into place, so I’m pretty sure the initial issue is fixed
Hi, this has happened to me once or twice. You must check if all the connections to the fans are properly plugged in. You can even unplug them and re-plug them.You can also take the fans out and tap on them gently with your fingers and put them back. Try this with the fans near the lamp at least. This is an issue more or less common with older Epson projectors even if they haven't suffered any intervention.
@@Descalabro thanks! That fixed it now it is only displaying one color at a time and goes between the colors occasionally. The lines gone though!
@@Eguitargeek Assuming the problem you're describing also happens when the projector menu is displayed (meaning it's not a problem related to the input connections), this sounds like the LCD ribbon cables took some abuse, or may not be plugged in correctly/completely. Unplug those and plug them again. Make sure you wear gloves and handle them with care.
Thanks! I tried reseating the cables but no luck. All the LCDs look active when I run it with the cover off. It’s primarily green for some reason. I guess I fried something, thanks for everything!
Hello, thank you for your great video. I have the same problem on an EPSON EB-1940W. I followed it because my EB-1940W is very like yours on the optical block and there was a red colouration in the bottom (about 10% of the height). After applying the same method, the default is displayed on about 50% of the height. Do you think the filter must instead be pulled up ?
Hi. Well, it's possible. But did it click when you pushed it down?
@@Descalabro yes it did
@@failovercluster6324 ok, better send me some pictures of how the image looks now. My e-mail is descalabro@gmail.com
@@Descalabro done :-)