A follow up on how you edited them would be great I have shots in the studio like those but the edits never pop or look as clean as you showed at the end of the vide
Of all the flash how to videos I have watched you are the first that has acknowledged and discussed the ghosting issue and how to resolve it, thank you.
Great job bro, im student photographer at the national film and television institute in Ghana-West Africa, and I must confess today!! here has been my learning platform ever👌😇💫💯
Excellent flow to these videos: Simple and dumbed-down for the non-techies. At some point last year I unconsciously stopped referring to "Ritz Camera" and started referring to "Adorama". Good job👍
wow! explanation is amazing and understandable! I have heard this concept before and have seen many movement frozen without a clue as to how its down, the secret is out! Thank you for breaking it DOWN!!! excuse me while I go freeze motion! Practice, Practice, practice. Thanks my favorite Mr. Pye! Gratitude!
Great tutorial, the graphics representation of the flash power is very explanatory...could you also continue this tutorial with the editing for have the final shot without background? 😃 Thanks Pye!
It’s so easy just use the patch tool or highlight the stuff that needs to go and right click ‘content aware fill’ mess with layers, dodging and burning and more patching to clean it up a bit
This is a really good tutorial on flash duration. Many beginners and some experienced photographers, are not aware that flash actually has a duration, and at longer durations can actually cause motion blur to occur. Simply by quartering the light output of a flash, can dramatically decrease flash duration, and freeze most model motion. May need to go even further, testing and reference to flash manual will show flash duration to power and equivalent shutter speed.
""BUT.." Long time follower of Pye and Adorama, but there are many things I would do differently approaching this shoot. (I know there's many ways to do the same thing but I would.. 1) go to the back of the studio and shoot from as far as possible zoomed in enough to just about cover the backdrop in the frame. 50mm-85mm (higer if studio lets you) lenses will help you to avoid unnaturally long limbs that end up close to the edge of a wide angle lens.) Clean up would be easier with less distraction at the edge of the frame and dancer look more pleasing "close to life" without the wide angle look. 2) shoot from a lower angle (hip height or lower so jumps look higher and the dancer can concentrate on the form instead of the power of the jump) 3) when you have only a 400ws light and an umbrella why dont you turn that light around and pointed to the dancer or use a silver interior umbrella instead or even better silver inside with diffusion outside like a softlighter or umbrella softbox? 4) when you don't have the luxury of a 1200ws light on a low setting with t1 1/2000 or lower learn the movement and predict the peak point of the jump so you can take one shot instead of "spray and pray" 5) probably would draw those curtains too for less ambiant light that can mess with the exposure. this way I can have a wider aperture lets say f5.6-11 this way the strobe doesn't have to work overtime to push the light through the tiny aperture allowing me to use a lower ISO. I'm London based but would love to work with dancers from the USA. Maybe one day I can visit. PS.: The above is just personal opinion and what would work for me and in no way mocking the work of Pye and Adorama. Regards, Peter Vagvolgyi Photography
I was totally expecting the video to discuss the FJ400 freeze mode function, since that feature is designed to do exactly what this video is about. I understand the freeze mode also reduces the power, but I'd guess it's more efficient at lowering the flash duration, than just dialing down the power in regular flash mode.
The dancings are always performance on stage instated of shooting in studio lighting . Try to capture the best moments . I have more than 15 years experience to photo shooting performance arts in several music centers/theaters in Los Angeles !
Setup the camera in portrait and stitching two or three shoots together so the your image megapixel resolution is higher yet you can still frame the final image in a reasonably standard aspect ratio. Ratios around 1x1, 6x4 or 2x1. FRAME BIG!
Ive been shoot dance for several years in the studio and always iso 100...I do one shot at a time not a series and that seems to work for me with tack sharp images and perfect peak action shots...I like the placement of your lights...Ill try that although not many of us have your kind of space and Im not sure if this will work but thanks for the tips.
you can put shutter at 1/600 or more and flash power at 1/4 or 1/2 (depend on your ISO setting ) and you will get freeze shot and better light than what we have seen now
I have more than 15 years freelancer photographer experience for performance arts including in Los Angeles Music Center , always take photo on stage only ! Try to capture the best moments of all difference movements and changing lightings without flash in one shooting spot ! Any studio or training photography would not shown the trued dancing photo shooting event that are nice looking ! Everything are changing, moving and differences , try to capture the best moments ! Not the second chances to try !
Stupidly, I would have activated HSS and do a shot by shot. But having the drive mode and a sequence makes it easier to get the shot you want and not redo the model because its difficult to trigger it. A lesson learned
Pye, you are the man. I don't shoot too frequently in the studio because I don't have a studio. I was having problems with missing the shots with fast-moving dancers because the flash did not have enough time to recycle. I thought that I have to invest in a battery pack to boost the flashes, but I never thought of raising my ISO to lower the power in my strobes. Thanks to you now will be able to get those shots.
Great tutorial. On the bucket list of photography to try. Question for you about the R5. Do you turn off image stabilization when you mount the R5 on a tripod? (Lens, body or both?). I know the 28-70 f2 has none, but will the body stabilization cause issues? Dslr's stabilized lenses caused soft images when tripod mounted. Not sure on mirrorless though.
Great refresher, thanks!; I haven't shot with my strobes for a couple of years (!) and as fate would have it planning to shoot a dancer very soon. You do say at one point that the different between main and fill is about one stop, and I set my lights separately in the "M" stage in any event :) But a question of curiosity, is it because of the particular lights you're using (I'm a profoto guy) that you gave the power setting in watt seconds? Worse are you doing the math? :) Again, this video really brought it all back quickly for me (and helped clarify beautifully the role ISO when shooting flash!) -- thanks!
I’ve been doing more dance lately, and just do the 1, 2, 3 method. Timing my shutter with when the jump trying to get it at the perfect point. The thought of hiking up the iso and using bursts makes me cringe, but damn I can’t argue with your results. Definitely beating me🤦🏻♂️
if you use iso 800 in order to use a lower flash power will you have iso grain too or does the flash duration result in sharp images within the skin texture of the model?
Any tips on focussing? My R6 struggles to focus even with the modeling light on because the room is too dark before the strobe fires. If my model is close to the light it's fine but when I try to do a full body dace shot it's too dark. (I'm using one Einstein light and there's not a lot of natural light for proper settings)
So the darker the ambient the more frozen the subject? How does auto iso handle freezing the subject? My understanding is that it is more accurate in its exposure amount then manually setting the flash power?
I only have 8.5ft with my backdrop. The problem is a jump with fabric, it leaves the backdrop area. I would like to see how you can extend that backdrop in post processing, thats all I can think of to do other than tear out the roof and make it higher :)
Yes defenetely its just a Flash Duration problem and xsnyc. Then we should go to Powerpack which has flash duration more than 6000ms, like Broncolor or Prophoto. And can tell us its t 0.5 and t 0.1. SB900 ??? try yourself at home. Hahaha
Thanks for watching! What would you like to learn next?
Yeah sure 👍
Would like to see how to light groups and couples in a studio setting.
A follow up on how you edited them would be great I have shots in the studio like those but the edits never pop or look as clean as you showed at the end of the vide
How did you edit these photos
How to decide color for our photoshop and about Color theory
the waw-factor of this off-camera strobe tutorial is 10 of a 10.
Of all the flash how to videos I have watched you are the first that has acknowledged and discussed the ghosting issue and how to resolve it, thank you.
Great job bro, im student photographer at the national film and television institute in Ghana-West Africa, and I must confess today!! here has been my learning platform ever👌😇💫💯
Man brother Pye be breaking shit down to a science and does it with out over complicating things or half ass explaining. Much appreciated bro.
Excellent flow to these videos: Simple and dumbed-down for the non-techies. At some point last year I unconsciously stopped referring to "Ritz Camera" and started referring to "Adorama". Good job👍
Love to see the post-production of how you control the BG.
wow! explanation is amazing and understandable! I have heard this concept before and have seen many movement frozen without a clue as to how its down, the secret is out! Thank you for breaking it DOWN!!! excuse me while I go freeze motion! Practice, Practice, practice. Thanks my favorite Mr. Pye! Gratitude!
The explanation of flash duration was a great ah-ha moment for me. Great educational piece here.
best video explaining photographing dance movements with flash. How to replicate process outdoors ?
Awesome tutorial part 1. Now we need the 2nd part Pye, you can’t leave us hanging.
Great tutorial, the graphics representation of the flash power is very explanatory...could you also continue this tutorial with the editing for have the final shot without background? 😃
Thanks Pye!
ICYMI: th-cam.com/video/V6negGUyAmQ/w-d-xo.html
Video on editing out the extraneous details on the edges would be great. Thanks again for another great video
It’s so easy just use the patch tool or highlight the stuff that needs to go and right click ‘content aware fill’ mess with layers, dodging and burning and more patching to clean it up a bit
This is a really good tutorial on flash duration. Many beginners and some experienced photographers, are not aware that flash actually has a duration, and at longer durations can actually cause motion blur to occur. Simply by quartering the light output of a flash, can dramatically decrease flash duration, and freeze most model motion. May need to go even further, testing and reference to flash manual will show flash duration to power and equivalent shutter speed.
Excellent tutirial covering the salinet points in a clear and structured manner. A follow up on editing would be awesome...
Good stuff !! Flash duration is so under rated …
Would love to see the retouching!
What a great video. Never tried rapid fire on a dancer, always tried to catch the moment. Will definitely be trying this, thank you.
Thanks for your videos Pye!!!! yes yes, we want post- video :D
Great video. Ghosting from ambient light is definitely something to keep in mind and try to avoid. 📸📸📸
Your great sir and explain about post too... thanks tons of time..
""BUT.." Long time follower of Pye and Adorama,
but there are many things I would do differently approaching this shoot. (I know there's many ways to do the same thing but I would..
1) go to the back of the studio and shoot from as far as possible zoomed in enough to just about cover the backdrop in the frame. 50mm-85mm (higer if studio lets you) lenses will help you to avoid unnaturally long limbs that end up close to the edge of a wide angle lens.) Clean up would be easier with less distraction at the edge of the frame and dancer look more pleasing "close to life" without the wide angle look.
2) shoot from a lower angle (hip height or lower so jumps look higher and the dancer can concentrate on the form instead of the power of the jump)
3) when you have only a 400ws light and an umbrella why dont you turn that light around and pointed to the dancer or use a silver interior umbrella instead or even better silver inside with diffusion outside like a softlighter or umbrella softbox?
4) when you don't have the luxury of a 1200ws light on a low setting with t1 1/2000 or lower learn the movement and predict the peak point of the jump so you can take one shot instead of "spray and pray"
5) probably would draw those curtains too for less ambiant light that can mess with the exposure. this way I can have a wider aperture lets say f5.6-11 this way the strobe doesn't have to work overtime to push the light through the tiny aperture allowing me to use a lower ISO.
I'm London based but would love to work with dancers from the USA. Maybe one day I can visit.
PS.: The above is just personal opinion and what would work for me and in no way mocking the work of Pye and Adorama.
Regards,
Peter Vagvolgyi Photography
This was way easy to understand now...thanks!!!!
Dancers are such great subjects to shoot. I also like Nika Ritshel here on YT. She does some very artistic stuff.
Please do a video on the editing process of these images!!!! Great video I never thought about the flash duration in high speed sync!
Thank you
The editing video will be appreciated
Thank you once again
Thank you dearly! 😎👌🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿💯
I was totally expecting the video to discuss the FJ400 freeze mode function, since that feature is designed to do exactly what this video is about. I understand the freeze mode also reduces the power, but I'd guess it's more efficient at lowering the flash duration, than just dialing down the power in regular flash mode.
Great info
I get shooting wide but I think you could have shot a little tighter.
Thanks
Thank you for this tutorial, I really needed this for a shoot tonight 😅.
Powerful video! After all these years, I surely needed this!
That was brilliant Pie. Your explanation of flash duration really helped me understand it better.
Loved the resulting images.
Simple to understand tutorial, thanks!
Thank you..great video..
Thank you Pye.
My guy Pye, adding this one to my light learning playlist. Haha I love the shade you throw to the trolls/petty commenters.
The dancings are always performance on stage instated of shooting in studio lighting . Try to capture the best moments . I have more than 15 years experience to photo shooting performance arts in several music centers/theaters in Los Angeles !
Brilliant video!! Also what a fabulous model - such poise and execution of movement, total poetry in motion!!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Setup the camera in portrait and stitching two or three shoots together so the your image megapixel resolution is higher yet you can still frame the final image in a reasonably standard aspect ratio. Ratios around 1x1, 6x4 or 2x1. FRAME BIG!
Thank you so much! I wish you have tutorial on how you post edited these photos. ❤
Ive been shoot dance for several years in the studio and always iso 100...I do one shot at a time not a series and that seems to work for me with tack sharp images and perfect peak action shots...I like the placement of your lights...Ill try that although not many of us have your kind of space and Im not sure if this will work but thanks for the tips.
Wow really love this tutorial
thanks for making this so comprehensible but still technically complete! great demo and samples.
Great Tutorial! Thank you so much!
This is cool. great tutorial and thanks.
you can put shutter at 1/600 or more and flash power at 1/4 or 1/2 (depend on your ISO setting ) and you will get freeze shot and better light than what we have seen now
Thanks Pye 👍
Your Presets Are So Crazy🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great clear and concise explanation.
I have more than 15 years freelancer photographer experience for performance arts including in Los Angeles Music Center , always take photo on stage only ! Try to capture the best moments of all difference movements and changing lightings without flash in one shooting spot ! Any studio or training photography would not shown the trued dancing photo shooting event that are nice looking ! Everything are changing, moving and differences , try to capture the best moments ! Not the second chances to try !
Nice presentation manner !
Stupidly, I would have activated HSS and do a shot by shot. But having the drive mode and a sequence makes it easier to get the shot you want and not redo the model because its difficult to trigger it. A lesson learned
really helpful, thanks Pye!
Nice video! I must have missed the section on creating similar images using one strobe. Would you mind sharing that process? Thanks
You are a great instructor!!
Thank you for the vid &, Nice studio.
Pye, you are the man. I don't shoot too frequently in the studio because I don't have a studio. I was having problems with missing the shots with fast-moving dancers because the flash did not have enough time to recycle. I thought that I have to invest in a battery pack to boost the flashes, but I never thought of raising my ISO to lower the power in my strobes. Thanks to you now will be able to get those shots.
Same here. That was kind of a "duh" moment for me.
Yeah I love the new intro
I was wondering if you can do fashion Jewelry, gym outfits, or product shots? Thanks.
Wow! Great info! I shoot a lot of dance and this was extremely helpful! Pye, you're a bad a**!
Awesome video, what kinds of backdrop matertial is it?
nice!..wat type of backround s dat?..vinyl material?..thank u for sharing this technique...☺😘😎
Great tutorial. On the bucket list of photography to try. Question for you about the R5. Do you turn off image stabilization when you mount the R5 on a tripod? (Lens, body or both?). I know the 28-70 f2 has none, but will the body stabilization cause issues? Dslr's stabilized lenses caused soft images when tripod mounted. Not sure on mirrorless though.
very helpful thank you!
Great refresher, thanks!; I haven't shot with my strobes for a couple of years (!) and as fate would have it planning to shoot a dancer very soon. You do say at one point that the different between main and fill is about one stop, and I set my lights separately in the "M" stage in any event :) But a question of curiosity, is it because of the particular lights you're using (I'm a profoto guy) that you gave the power setting in watt seconds? Worse are you doing the math? :) Again, this video really brought it all back quickly for me (and helped clarify beautifully the role ISO when shooting flash!) -- thanks!
Awesome tutorial
Definitely a video of how you edited these pics in PS. The actual and the edited shots look totally different.
Hello Pye!
What are you camera settings besides the ISO, aperture, and SS? Thank you!
PS….. I have a canon EOS 5 d mark lll
thank you so much for all great content Pye. just curious, don't you teather in studio?
Great tutorial.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for this. What material was the model using to wave around? It looks amazing. Thanks.
I’ve been doing more dance lately, and just do the 1, 2, 3 method. Timing my shutter with when the jump trying to get it at the perfect point. The thought of hiking up the iso and using bursts makes me cringe, but damn I can’t argue with your results. Definitely beating me🤦🏻♂️
Wonderful! Could you do one that looks at dance and OCF outdoors/on location? I'd also love to see your edit following this. Thank you!!
love the new intro
Thank you!
best yet
Great video, very informative. Question: It would be nice to know the best approach to have a set of these photos in 1 image. Showing the movement.
if you use iso 800 in order to use a lower flash power will you have iso grain too or does the flash duration result in sharp images within the skin texture of the model?
Great tutorial, can you get the same results using continuous light rather than flash?
I have learned something
Wow love this 🙌🏾🔥✨
ok - so you are using the mechanical shutter? or curtain shutter? or which shutter for HSS high speed sync
Any tips on focussing? My R6 struggles to focus even with the modeling light on because the room is too dark before the strobe fires. If my model is close to the light it's fine but when I try to do a full body dace shot it's too dark. (I'm using one Einstein light and there's not a lot of natural light for proper settings)
Yes Photoshop Tutorial!!
Happy Deepavali
useful 12mins of video.
great video.. loved it very helpful
i would like to ask... the Male Model wearing All Black with Black Hat...
is his name.. Jhesus Aponte?
Help with the edit 🙌
I would like to see the editing of these images.
So the darker the ambient the more frozen the subject? How does auto iso handle freezing the subject? My understanding is that it is more accurate in its exposure amount then manually setting the flash power?
very nice tutorial
Can you tell me the process to get the background white as you did
I only have 8.5ft with my backdrop. The problem is a jump with fabric, it leaves the backdrop area. I would like to see how you can extend that backdrop in post processing, thats all I can think of to do other than tear out the roof and make it higher :)
Nice!!!
Loved the part of the comments 😂😂
Did anybody knows if htere is a tutorial of how this picture was edited? Pye was mentioning he would show how to edit this
Yes defenetely its just a Flash Duration problem and xsnyc. Then we should go to Powerpack which has flash duration more than 6000ms, like Broncolor or Prophoto. And can tell us its t 0.5 and t 0.1. SB900 ??? try yourself at home. Hahaha
Nice 🤟🏼🤝😎