If the .043" is critical, you could use a stack of 3 feeler blades to help you. Stack an .030 and an .012 to give a total of .042. A third blade (any thickness) on top of these two would snag on feed dogs that are .043 " high. By putting a third blade ( any thickness) on top of your .043 stack (.030+.013), the third blade should slide over the feed dogs. Would that be worthwhile? Love your videos.
Really great idea Terry and thanks for sharing. I pinned your comment to the top. Your method sounds much easier to accomplish and less fiddly. I like it a lot. Take Care.
That's what I'm talking about Joe. I love it! I neve would have thought of it. I play music on the radio and that's about it. Thanks for sharring. I pinned your comment hoping other will see it up top. Take Care.
Thank you for all this knowledge! I just dug my 301a out of hiding and needed to troubleshoot-it’s my tension! I love your pages and had my husband watch in case we have to take it apart. I still have concerns about the compartment where the bobbin goes. Sometimes my bobbin gets jammed. But I was able to make my masks.thanks again for putting this info out here!
I'm glad you found the videos. Many have written about getting a machine out of storage for mask making and finding these types of problems. The other half of the 301A videos are under the "Coco" playlist; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html The videos about the hook and bobbin case may help if you continue to have problems. Sometimes just a cleaning will do it, and don't forget to oil the hook race; that helps a lot. Thanks for the comment.
Andy you need a fine drill to drill out the center of screw,then they sell an easy out tool to get screws backed out.It goes in a reversed angle and you actually once it tightens up..back out the remaining piece of screw...Piece of cake to do!
Hey Andy, I’m almost finished with my 403A but I think the presser bar and feed dogs need adjustments. I found your video for the presser bar adjustment but I can’t find one for the feed dog adjustment. It’s not dime high😂….should it be? Is it maybe on a different model that you cover it? Thanks
Wow, you're quick! Do you even sleep? haha. I don't remember making a feed dog video for it, but you can find the instructions on page 129 of the Service Manual I sent you 😀Good Luck.
I bought a free motion foot for a Singer 5050c. But that Singer has no feed dog lowering mechanism (as fast as I can tell). So I'd like to try the free motion on my Singer 391a. Now I know where the feed dog nut is and can lower the feed dogs entirely. Andy do you think free motion sewing will work with the 301A?
Singer model 301A has a built-in Feed Dog Throw Out. It is controlled by a large thumb nut to the left of the Hook/Bobbin Case if you lift the extension table and look you will see it. It is often hard to turn by hand but has a slot for a screwdriver if needed. You can control how far down to drop the dog including all the way to complete throw out. This video shows and talks about the Feed Throw Out System including how to adjust it if needed. th-cam.com/video/EZdlAccPqLU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Similar, but a little different using a straight edge. The god teeth on a 500A/503A are lower in the front than the back (no idea why) and while the 301 height is stated a ".043" the Rocketeer manual says "a full depth of feed dog teeth should project above the top surface of the needle plate". It's always something, right. Just go here sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf and download a free copy of the 500A/503A Service Manual. Follow the directions on page 5 and you'll be fine.
Great vid Andy. I want to address the "Motor Securing Plate".(Just what I call it) broken screw issue. #1. Best Case Scenario: There is enough of the screw shaft remaining to get a pair of small Vice Grips locked on the thread shaft to break it loose. #1A. As you have pointed out in previous videos that all the bolt/screw threads are proprietary for Singer (SIMANCO) so good luck finding a Machine Tap for that size and thread count. So now we must address worst case. #2. Worse Case Scenario: Disclaimer: If the offending screw was a little bigger, you may be able to use an "Easy-Out" by center punching, drilling and inserting the easy-out with reverse threads and if you're lucky, the easy-out will bite enough to remove the screw. NOT going to happen in this case. Here goes: #2A. Grind or cut the casting from around the offending screw below where the broken head is, just enough to get said Vice Grips a good bite on the remaining screw shaft. Remove the offending screw #2B. The offending screw is VERY long and screws into this mounting post quite far so there may be enough internal thread left to simply file/grind the post flat, add enough washers to built up to normal mounting height and VOILA! #3. If that does not work, take 2 Aspirins and message me in the morning. There are more options including drilling/tapping with SAE thread tap and SAE screw. (Or metric, doesn't matter) -Trent-
I saw the easy-out set up after Andrew Mikulich commented about it. I planned to ask at the store about it working on that small of a screw. I'm worried it's too small. The idea of removing some of the aluminum to use a vise-grip for removal seems possible. I've never had this situation so I appreciste te tips and advice. Thank you.
WOW!....Piece of cake huh? Andrew is obviously from a different planet than I am. (and I mean that in the nicest possible way) The Shank diameter on said screw is: .163 (as close as I can measure W/ dial calipers) Just for reference: 1/8" is .125 and 1/4" is .250 thousands of an inch. so one could say the shank DIAMETER is closer to 1/8". NOTE: You will have to center punch that before you can drill it. PS> You only get one shot. If you fail to find the center, you will have to file that off flat and try again. The overall length of screw is slightly more than 1-1/2" The screw is threaded on this SIMANCO screw slightly MORE than 5/8" but less than 3/4" or A LOT OF THREADS HOLDING ON TO CASTING MEAT. Not sure what the Rockwell hardness of the screw material is but if you are able to succeed in drilling this screw out far enough to get a 'bite' with an Easy-Out (if you can find one that small) and fail to break the screw loose, then you have lost that length of shank/shaft on which to get a purchase with your vice grips as the drilled out shank will crush under vice grip loading. Here's my disclaimer: "Your mileage may vary."
This is why I was worried about the size of the screw. Most of the screw removal kits are for bigger diameter screws I think. Also, I don't have a drill press or anything like that, and I don't trust myself to center-punch and drill such a perfectly straight hole into the little screw. I imagine myself making the situation worse. A friend emailed me earlier about trying to get a vise-grip on the screw. I feel I could sacrifice some of the aluminum surrounding the end of the screw to get a grip on it, then after removal filing the aluminum flat again and using a spacer or washers to get back to the original height or close to it. I do have the replacement screw and agree there wold be plenty of threads left in the hole. Attemping this sounds better than me causing furtheer damage and buying a tap and die set to make a new threading size nd using a new SAE screw or bolt. Time for me to learn something new I think. Thaanks for your thoughtful and articulate response Trent. Much appreciated.
One last suggestion: Don't be stingy about cutting the casting metal away from the screw. You need (my guess) a full purchase of the vice grip because as I already pointed out that there are a LOT of threads buried deep into the casting. Use a sanding disc when you get close to the shaft as you don't want to 'nick' or weaken the shaft with a cutting tool. Here's the good news. (never saw that coming did you?) The diameter of the threads are larger than the screw shank. (Proprietary SIMANCO) which means there is space between the shank and the hole down to the threads. Use PB Blaster and let it sit W/ machine upside down while you muster your resolve. You CAN do this Andy as I have Blessed you and pray for your success. PS> Please RE-name "Oh No". (there are re-naming procedures that must be followed. i.e. incantations, sacrifices and Champagne ;)
I am sorry Andrew. I misunderstood our previous comment. Please share with us about the tool. A link to it, or picture? Thank you very much. Take care.
It has threads backwards,against the grain.So when you screw it into the piece you drilled out it bites into the metal...I think you can fine it at True Value Ace Hardware
Ahhhh, now I get it Andrew. I found what you are talking about. I'll go and ask them if it can work on a screw this small. Thank you for the tip. I was thinking I'd have to just drill it out then use a larger screw.
If the .043" is critical, you could use a stack of 3 feeler blades to help you.
Stack an .030 and an .012 to give a total of .042. A third blade (any thickness) on top of these two would snag on feed dogs that are .043 " high.
By putting a third blade ( any thickness) on top of your .043 stack (.030+.013), the third blade should slide over the feed dogs.
Would that be worthwhile?
Love your videos.
Really great idea Terry and thanks for sharing. I pinned your comment to the top. Your method sounds much easier to accomplish and less fiddly. I like it a lot. Take Care.
Thanks Andy, this is the exact info I needed. Now, to get those screws out of the feed dogs! thanks again!
@@williamcannon2825 You're very welcome and good luck!
Andy, thank you so much for your excellent video instructions. This video helped me fix the dogs on a 301 that I’m restoring for my daughter.
Welcome. You're a loving Mom to this for her. Good Luck. 💖
@@andytubesewing1953 🥰You’re so kind, Andy!🌟🙏
Oh, before I forget Andy a lot of guitar pick's are 043 and under a buck at your local music store.
That's what I'm talking about Joe. I love it! I neve would have thought of it. I play music on the radio and that's about it. Thanks for sharring. I pinned your comment hoping other will see it up top. Take Care.
Thank you for all this knowledge! I just dug my 301a out of hiding and needed to troubleshoot-it’s my tension! I love your pages and had my husband watch in case we have to take it apart.
I still have concerns about the compartment where the bobbin goes. Sometimes my bobbin gets jammed. But I was able to make my masks.thanks again for putting this info out here!
I'm glad you found the videos. Many have written about getting a machine out of storage for mask making and finding these types of problems. The other half of the 301A videos are under the "Coco" playlist; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html The videos about the hook and bobbin case may help if you continue to have problems. Sometimes just a cleaning will do it, and don't forget to oil the hook race; that helps a lot. Thanks for the comment.
Very good instructions! Thank you, Andy!
Welcome, and thanks for watching me walk the dog.
Thanks Andy just the ticket, very well done.
Welcome, Joe. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks ,we need you !
Always nice to see people still find help with my videos. I appreciate your comment
Andy you need a fine drill to drill out the center of screw,then they sell an easy out tool to get screws backed out.It goes in a reversed angle and you actually once it tightens up..back out the remaining piece of screw...Piece of cake to do!
I plan to see if it will work on this small a screw. I see them online and thank you very much, Andrew.
Hey Andy, I’m almost finished with my 403A but I think the presser bar and feed dogs need adjustments. I found your video for the presser bar adjustment but I can’t find one for the feed dog adjustment. It’s not dime high😂….should it be? Is it maybe on a different model that you cover it? Thanks
Wow, you're quick! Do you even sleep? haha. I don't remember making a feed dog video for it, but you can find the instructions on page 129 of the Service Manual I sent you 😀Good Luck.
"who let the dogs out" funny Andy!
@@kristinjacobsen3417 🐕🦺🐕🐩🐶🐾😁
I bought a free motion foot for a Singer 5050c. But that Singer has no feed dog lowering mechanism (as fast as I can tell). So I'd like to try the free motion on my Singer 391a. Now I know where the feed dog nut is and can lower the feed dogs entirely. Andy do you think free motion sewing will work with the 301A?
Singer model 301A has a built-in Feed Dog Throw Out. It is controlled by a large thumb nut to the left of the Hook/Bobbin Case if you lift the extension table and look you will see it. It is often hard to turn by hand but has a slot for a screwdriver if needed. You can control how far down to drop the dog including all the way to complete throw out. This video shows and talks about the Feed Throw Out System including how to adjust it if needed. th-cam.com/video/EZdlAccPqLU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy Tube!
@@kristinjacobsen3417 You're welcome sorry for the bad spelling haha
Do u have any videos on the leg bar that powers the machine on the singer 301? How to adjust it
I do not, sorry. 🙁
Andy, does adjusting feed dogs on the 500 or 503 handled the same way?
Similar, but a little different using a straight edge. The god teeth on a 500A/503A are lower in the front than the back (no idea why) and while the 301 height is stated a ".043" the Rocketeer manual says "a full depth of feed dog teeth should project above the top surface of the needle plate". It's always something, right. Just go here sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf and download a free copy of the 500A/503A Service Manual. Follow the directions on page 5 and you'll be fine.
Great vid Andy.
I want to address the "Motor Securing Plate".(Just what I call it) broken
screw issue.
#1. Best Case Scenario:
There is enough of the screw shaft remaining to get a pair of small Vice Grips
locked on the thread shaft to break it loose.
#1A. As you have pointed out in previous videos that all the bolt/screw threads
are proprietary for Singer (SIMANCO) so good luck finding a Machine Tap for
that size and thread count. So now we must address worst case.
#2. Worse Case Scenario:
Disclaimer:
If the offending screw was a little bigger, you may be able to use an "Easy-Out"
by center punching, drilling and inserting the easy-out with reverse threads
and if you're lucky, the easy-out will bite enough to remove the screw.
NOT going to happen in this case.
Here goes:
#2A. Grind or cut the casting from around the offending screw below
where the broken head is, just enough to get said Vice Grips a good bite
on the remaining screw shaft. Remove the offending screw
#2B. The offending screw is VERY long and screws into this mounting
post quite far so there may be enough internal thread left to simply
file/grind the post flat, add enough washers to built up to normal mounting
height and VOILA!
#3. If that does not work, take 2 Aspirins and message me in the morning.
There are more options including drilling/tapping with SAE thread tap
and SAE screw. (Or metric, doesn't matter)
-Trent-
I saw the easy-out set up after Andrew Mikulich commented about it. I planned to ask at the store about it working on that small of a screw. I'm worried it's too small. The idea of removing some of the aluminum to use a vise-grip for removal seems possible. I've never had this situation so I appreciste te tips and advice. Thank you.
WOW!....Piece of cake huh?
Andrew is obviously from a different planet than I am. (and I mean that in the nicest possible way)
The Shank diameter on said screw is: .163 (as close as I can measure W/ dial calipers)
Just for reference: 1/8" is .125 and 1/4" is .250 thousands of an inch.
so one could say the shank DIAMETER is closer to 1/8".
NOTE: You will have to center punch that before you can drill it.
PS> You only get one shot. If you fail to find the center, you will
have to file that off flat and try again.
The overall length of screw is slightly more than 1-1/2"
The screw is threaded on this SIMANCO screw slightly MORE than 5/8" but less than 3/4" or A LOT OF THREADS HOLDING ON TO CASTING MEAT.
Not sure what the Rockwell hardness of the screw material is but if you are able to succeed in drilling this screw out far enough to get a 'bite' with an Easy-Out (if you can find one that small) and fail to break the
screw loose, then you have lost that length of shank/shaft on which
to get a purchase with your vice grips as the drilled out shank will crush
under vice grip loading.
Here's my disclaimer:
"Your mileage may vary."
This is why I was worried about the size of the screw. Most of the screw removal kits are for bigger diameter screws I think. Also, I don't have a drill press or anything like that, and I don't trust myself to center-punch and drill such a perfectly straight hole into the little screw. I imagine myself making the situation worse. A friend emailed me earlier about trying to get a vise-grip on the screw. I feel I could sacrifice some of the aluminum surrounding the end of the screw to get a grip on it, then after removal filing the aluminum flat again and using a spacer or washers to get back to the original height or close to it. I do have the replacement screw and agree there wold be plenty of threads left in the hole. Attemping this sounds better than me causing furtheer damage and buying a tap and die set to make a new threading size nd using a new SAE screw or bolt. Time for me to learn something new I think. Thaanks for your thoughtful and articulate response Trent. Much appreciated.
One last suggestion:
Don't be stingy about cutting the casting metal away from the screw.
You need (my guess) a full purchase of the vice grip because as I
already pointed out that there are a LOT of threads buried deep into
the casting. Use a sanding disc when you get close to the shaft as
you don't want to 'nick' or weaken the shaft with a cutting tool.
Here's the good news. (never saw that coming did you?)
The diameter of the threads are larger than the screw shank.
(Proprietary SIMANCO) which means there is space between
the shank and the hole down to the threads.
Use PB Blaster and let it sit W/ machine upside down while you
muster your resolve.
You CAN do this Andy as I have Blessed you and pray for your success.
PS> Please RE-name "Oh No". (there are re-naming procedures that
must be followed. i.e. incantations, sacrifices and Champagne ;)
Your comments are all "good news" to me as I did not have much of a clue on how to proceed. You are the best Trent, thank you.
It looks like a ice cream swirll backwards...
You have a good imagination Andrew. Hehe.
Well Andy I have the tool and it works well
I am sorry Andrew. I misunderstood our previous comment. Please share with us about the tool. A link to it, or picture? Thank you very much. Take care.
It has threads backwards,against the grain.So when you screw it into the piece you drilled out it bites into the metal...I think you can fine it at True Value Ace Hardware
Ahhhh, now I get it Andrew. I found what you are talking about. I'll go and ask them if it can work on a screw this small. Thank you for the tip. I was thinking I'd have to just drill it out then use a larger screw.