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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Affiliate links:
Arrma Vorteks 3S: bit.ly/3eQuIYY
Parts used:
Duratrax ST Six-Pack tires with 1/2" offset: bit.ly/2Swwp68
Hot Racing motor mount:
Arrma 12mm wheel hexes: bit.ly/3vbTcCM
Power HD 23kg servo: amzn.to/3bqaLXZ
Kimborough servo saver: bit.ly/3ggvnmo
Typhon bumpers: bit.ly/3uy8Nf3
Arrma 4x4 Mega rear spring: bit.ly/3fMOkO6
TLR 22T 4.0 shocks
Gens Ace batteries: bit.ly/3c4z3qV
10 BEST RC cars!
Affiliate links:
ECX Amp MT: bit.ly/2TrJECQ
Arrma Granite 4x4 BLX: bit.ly/3bZpNkJ
Xray XB4: www.eurorc.com (5% off coupon code "justrc14")
Tekno SCT410.3: bit.ly/3bSfFu9
Traxxas TRX-4 Sport: bit.ly/2Xo028y
Arrma Infraction: bit.ly/3gen0ry
Team Associated B6.2: bit.ly/2zXQWr8
Schumacher Storm: www.discountrcstore.com/Schum...
Arrma Kraton 6S: bit.ly/2LTAM4R
Traxxas X-Maxx: bit.ly/2znBxAj
Here is the full review of the Arrma Vorteks 4x4 3S BLX.
#Arrma #Vorteks - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
First RC car/truck and no regrets I love my vorteks!
Same here.
I just got mine today but it is not my first
It’s my second RC and it’s amazing!
Same. Love it and feel it's a great price point for what you get.
A great in depth review. Bit harsh on the build dropping it to 2 stars for a couple of minor things but over all I think you nailed it. If people watch the vid from start to finish they will see you've covered it all. 🤟
Another great video.
I bought the Arrma Vorteks for my young son this Christmas and he broke a shock shaft on his 2nd battery pack. Since then it's been necessary for me to learn as much as possible about these cars so I turned to TH-cam for instructional videos. I totally agree with your assessment of this vehicle and overall I think it's a great starting point for anybody new to the hobby. The only issue I have is that the instructions are very limited and should really have a little more information on getting started. It would be great if you could go back and revisit a previous video you made on "The 1st things you should do before ever running this model". Straight out of the box the shocks had barely any oil, 3 out of 4 driveshafts screws were loose, and we had steering alignment issues that couldn't be fixed with just adjusting steering trim. Also there were several loose screws on the main chassis and body components.
Horizon Hobby used to have fantastic quality control but it seems that this too has only degraded over the past year or 2.
Cheers from Ontario Canada.
Very helpful information, thankyou. I'm really wanting to try the kraton 6s. I've never ran 6s before but I probably didn't really have the room so may vortex would be good.
Hi mate great video I've got the vorteks 4x4 3s blx for my grandson for this chirstmas coming. I've already got 23kg steering servo 12mm wheel hex metal spur aluminium shockers and a couple of 3s 80c 5200mah batteries all ready for us to put in.
For those having issues with their Vorteks, one thing is when connecting battery, do not use adapters. I mistakenly bought a 2S 50C IC3 instead of the same in IC5. Adapters don't run over 60 amps and the straight connection to ESC is 100 amp. Could be one issue. I'm no expert and this is my first real RC. I've had no issues. Watched all the videos, did set up per user manual, etc Runs great, not too hot. No regrets here.
Very good review. Ty 😊
So are the shocks you chose a different length, brand?
It's just such a good looking rc
great review, i still can't decide on this or the typhon...more research for me!
I now own both. love my Vortex for yard play but for track environment like Typhon 3S. Vortex not a pavement king, spins out of control.
I think they increased the price cause of the telemetry functions on this one. I ended up going with the Senton. So far, having a blast with mine! :)
Thx for the video, nice Tips, and Info.! I had a problem with the Motor (bearing exploded). Change the bearing at first for better ones.
Seems to be a common problem.
2 Year warranty. all I can say! if bought at Hobby Shop, take receipt, use the warranty. for what it's worth HH pretty good about thier warranty. my hobby shop is cool with Warranty stuff.
The servo went out on my new kraton 6s so I took it to a local hobby shop and the warranty covered the cost of the servo, so I’d say they’re pretty decent.
I bought the Hot Racing 17mm hex setup with 10mm offset. Next Is new Proline shocks, then upgrade diffs to metal, and steel input gears, with Steel Spur gear.
Hi Razor.
GREAT review as always. Debating this or a Rival MT10. Looking to run around a park on grass, pavement, dirt. Some jumps, but not stunts or ‘sending it.’ While RC club racing is behind me, I do appreciate a feeling of quality ‘handling.’ Durability and a big smile are what matters.
Any recommendation on Vorteks vs. MT10 in that context?
I bought my wife and my oldest daughter the vorteks, broke the shocks on my daughter's after 3 bashes and runs not bad for new to hobby. Replaced with rear shocks and put inserts in the rear shocks now it sits up higher better for jumps and off road. My wife's car servo quit after 4 or 5 runs. I replaced with bigger spectrum servo and been great since. These cars are fast and turn so quick, fun to run for sure.
The Typhon 6S shocks are amazing. Worth a shot at next upgrade $95 for all around @ jennysrc
Bought the pink and purple one for my daughter she loves it! The radio showing the battery life is epic!
I just got a kraton 6s and was disappointed to see the radio for the vorteks having this feature and my kratons package didnt.
Agree
Awesome speed truck🚀💥
I wonder if they don't threaslock the axles screws to help with not breaking or twisting the axles. Id rather retighten the screw than replace an axle but I dunno
I thought it had the heatsink and fan on the motor. It needs that. My Big Rock has the same motor and it has the Fan+Heatsink. I don't get not including that. Especially with the bearing failures this motor seems to be having. Heat is the main enemy of all RCs, in my opinion. I would have had to knock it down to 4 stars because of that. Great job as always.
Sorry, it comes with one, I don't want to mislead that it doesn't. I just took mine off because I only run it on 2S at the track and it handles better without the extra weight. Not recommended for anyone running 3S or even 2S for extended periods of time or in hot weather!
@@RazorRC Oh, ok, yeah, definitely not, it's been getting so hot. I thought it looked different...but I thought maybe I was just mistaken🤣...sorry
Excellent review, I've definitely had to replace/upgrade parts sooner than expected but mostly due to driver error. Did have a issue with the shock shaft bending while running on flat ground and one of the hub bearings locking up. What servo and saver are you running btw?
The shock shafts bent more easily than I expected, not sure what's going on there. Parts used are in the description.
We snapped a front shock in half, the local hobby shop gave me a replacement set that was rear lol it sits up higher now and runs off road better
Speaking of do have a review of the Big rock v3?
Nice review! I wish to mention after 2 months riding the Vorteks I needed a new steering servo and rear differential. I baby this vehicle so I can’t understand why gears are stripping out. I will say that ARRMA has stood behind the car and sent me new parts. Still a pain to repair. I also agree that the shocks need to be replaced. I also have a Typhon which also shares theses issues. Please respond if you are experiencing these same problems. I’m very disappointed and wish I could return them. I don’t do jumps, climb up rocks, just nice and easy in parking lots and fields. My friend has a Vorteks also and has the same issues.
They run great for a few months, then the trouble starts. Cars were purchased in late 2021. It appears earlier versions were built to last. Thanks for your review it was very well done.
I totally agree and I have had all the same problems. Rear diff blows after 10+ runs I baby the car and diff blows. I would not buy this car again. You are better off buying a car with betters parts.
Thank you for sharing this information. Does anyone know the answer?
I've had mine for over a year and only thing I've changed was tires. Race it in sand pit all the time.
I just bought one of these and it makes a lot of grinding noise when moving. Even when the car is turned off, pushing it forward creates a grinding sound. Is this normal? It's my first Arma!
I was initially excited when they announced it, but I was turned off by the price. Great review! Still got my V1 Granite and V1 Big Rock and those are still running like champs.
I've had nothing but trouble with mine. I've never even been able to put a full pack through it as it goes into LVC in under 30 seconds. Same battery then moved to my 3s Typhon goes for ages until LVC. Nothing I've changed has made a big difference, including motor and ESC and fixing binding diffs.
These ESCs seem to burn through batteries really fast, probably a much higher draw than the old BLX100's leading to premature LVC.
@@RazorRC Yeah but whatever the reason it's not good. I'm dropping the pinion from 18t to 15t to try and get better run times. I've never had to do that with any other RC and my Typhon even has the optional 20t pinion and I get decent run times with that, but it's an earlier version. I sold my 4x4 Rustler VXL to get the Vorteks. Big mistake.
@@rogerwilco5187 is there any option out there that doesnt have these LVC problems? Im looking for a better rc for myself after buying my 8yr old a Granite Mega which seems to not have any problems i keep reading about. Thanks!
@@Mike_Jones68 As far as the Arrma 3s range is concerned I don't know. I've only got the older version of the Typhon 3s which doesn't have the same problem. I'd expect other new 3s Arrma varieties to have the same problem as the Vorteks unless they've fixed the problem, but again I don't know. I've sort of worked around my Vorteks problem by buying new batteries with higher capacity and C rating, like 8000mAh 120C, which has helped a lot. As for other brands I haven't heard of any having a LVC problem.
I hear its great.... if you disassemble it and put it back together correctly since the Arrma factory doesn't seem to build them correctly or remember to add grease or shock oil.
Ah sure, blame the company not the manufacturers.
They all have thier quirks, they all do. choose your battles.
Excellent review as usual, I like the categories!!! I have a Bigrock and didn't buy it to upgrade it. It has held up great. The Vortex looks like a great entry into RC. Fast and controllable does everything well. The Bigrock is fun but is out of control on pavement. Probably not fun for a newbie
I'd say it's above average as far as speed n durability but the value is overpriced n the weight of vortex is rather heavy for its looks
$500 (gotta buy a $75-$100 battery that an entry level new RC hobbyist won’t just have lying around) for entry? That’s insane. Plenty less expensive RCs for entry into the hobby that are fast and durable. (I own the Vorteks, I just don’t see it as an affordable entry into the hobby, especially considering I’ll be spending $75-$100 just on shock upgrades due to leaking)
@@dcarts5616 what would be some better options? Bought a Granite Mega for my 8yr old so far has been great, but the heat thing on the no fan brushed is annoying, but manageable. I am looking for something next level up and def brushless, this looked like a good option for not too much $$ more, but if you have other better options i would like to know. Thanks!
@@Mike_Jones68 get the Vorteks, it's an amazing RC. Yes it's not the best in rough terrain or tall grass but it's definitely an upgrade from the top heavy granite that wants to roll all the time. I love the handling and find it easy to control in the air and to flip. You can change your punch setting to help with that too.
Plan on getting an O8S exb? Would love to hear your opinion about it.
50/50
My vorteks sucks constantly over heating. Losses signal needs rebinding several times now. Tires are cheap. I should have stuck with traxxas
i love my vortex better than my traxxas
Where is the track at just pick one off these
Mine had a mesh issue that I had to fix out of the box. What shocks did you replace the stock ones with?
Use the gpm rustler big bore shocks i literally went a week trying different shocks then found out the front are 87mm and 105 rear just grab rustler and not the ones u see for big rock or senton or granite those will raise the truck and it doesnt perform right and use 35 wt shock oil the most i have 50 in mine but its too strong i love this truck mine hits 69mph!
What are the Shocks you have on that car and what is the oil
Which rc would you recommend in this price ?
Wait a second wheres the fin and the fan on the motor?? Mine has them?
Nice and fair review Razor!! You have ALLOT of HATERS in your comment section of this review!! I believe the cost of ALL RC's are going up. Price point is a big deal but to the person who doesn't own any of the Arrma 3's it's just another option. I own the V2 Typhon and it's a Great buggy!! Great review again, stay safe and bash on from Colorado!!
Thanks 👍
I want to know how you feel about Arrma bringing out the 3s/4s EXB Roller. Is it something you feel the market needs? Do you think people will buy it? I think it makes perfect sense but I'm newer to the hobby than most of you. Your view is different even if you feel the same as me or not about it because you have so much experience.
That's a really interesting question! Well, the whole cars are plastic, that's kind of the calling card and differentiator from the 6S+ line. It would be hard to add metal to increase durability without redesigning the car pretty significantly. The only thing they might do is put in an all metal drivetrain so that you could run more powerful motors. But I dunno, these seem to be aimed at more of a budget/ price conscious market and I feel like Arrma reserves the EXB's for their higher end models. But who knows? My guess is the next 4S will have a beefed up drivetrain, so maybe you'll have an EXB-ish model there.
@@RazorRC I think the metal spur gear with aluminum slipper pads and a metal drivetrain and axles would definitely be a step towards the EXB world. Yes, I see it as more of something aimed at people looking for value and people that want higher end. This is a way they can get a great 3s/4s and learn to work on them some, while actually getting the best deal. This is if the price point is correct of course. Aluminum pivot balls, bellcrank, and aluminum end links. They can do a lot to improve and/or make it an EXB. The yokes around the diffs to, that one needs to be aluminum....they may not do that though. I just feel it would be the BEST entry level RC in almost every way. Idk, just something I been thinking about. Thanks for your answer! I appreciate you taking the time for it.
And maybe add a center diff
The price is supposed to be justified because of the good remote and AVC. I agree with you though, that just doesn't justify it costing this much. Or give me an option without that....AVC can hurt you more than it helps sometimes. And the remote that came with the Big Rock is fine, just use Energizer Industrial brand batteries in it. Or get an aftermarket....the value is there but it's hard to call it Value in this instance.
I wonder if that's just in the US. I'm in New Zealand and it's the same price as the rest of the 3s line which IMO makes it GREAT value.
@@TheflyingkiwiRC ABSOLUTELY, if you can get it for the same price as a Big Rock or Granite, definitely the way to go. I wish it was like that here. I might get one if that was the case.
@@rcpd3157 👍👍👍
Choosing my 1st rc. Would you recommend the Arrma Vorteks 3s over the Arrma Typhon 3s?
Have both myself, but if could only get 1, I'd go Typhon 3S...17mm hex provides tons of wheel and tire options. But Vortex is a ton of fun on sand, gravel, etc, but sucks on pavement surfaced.
Nice vid! If you could only afford to buy one, which would you buy; Vorteks, Big Rock or Typhon? For drivability, jumping, off-road (dirt and grass) and general bashing?
I’d get the Big Rock, it’s the most general purpose/versatile.
@@RazorRC that’s where I was leaning towards. However, the speed of the Vorteks very intriguing! Thanks for the reply!
What shocks did you fit please
Mines had a part break 12 minutes into the first run, and then another part broke 5 minutes into the second run. I just spent $40 to send it back to Horizon Hobby for warranty repair.
If you have to send it for repair you may be in the wrong hobby
Why’d you take off the heat sync and fan. There’s no way it’s not over heating with that removed.
He’s running it on 2s mostly he said in a previous video.
Will a BLX120 work better than the 100? I cooked the esc last summer, got a brand new BLX100 AND Killed it in 5 packs. Any ideas?
Yes.
I think arrma messed up with your truck its suppose to come with a heat sink and fan combo.
yup, mine did
Make sense that a Monstertruck drive different then a stadium truck
Should of added a center diff.
So, this or, the rustler 4x4?
Hi Razor, how much battery time do you get for the vorteks? im only getting 5mins on a 3s 4500mah on grass
You get about 20 minutes of good driving time on grass with a 5000 mah 50 cc battery. And 25 minutes on a 8000 mah 100cc battery
@@allenaragon6010 could you explain to my why i only get 5mins on grass flat out
@@87mitchb maybe you have an old battery? Or I’m guessing the output of your battery is 100cc. Which will drain your battery twice as fast than a 50cc. If you’re also just going full throttle for five straight minutes that’ll drain your power quickly.
on the Vortex we can adjust the throttle output from 50%, 75% and 100%. All done via the radio. I like to stay around 50% to 75% for driving around. And only reserving 100% for stunts. I also allow 30 seconds to a minute of cool down time before I drive the vehicle for another 2 minute run.
I liked and subbed. Please give me a direction to find front struts for my vortex. I ran mine for not even eight minutes and the front strut blew up. I contacted Arma and parts are unavailable for at least two months. Please give me a compatible aftermarket strut that I can use for my Vortex it is brand new
Mine came with a heat sink and fan on the motor. Weird yours didn't come with it.
Mine did too, I just took it off.
Razor mentions it in the video why the heatsink and fan were removed.
Vorteks 3S or Rival MT10 ? If someone has offroad racers, crawlers, some onroad cars, etc... and was going to have just ONE "monster truck"... Vorteks or Rival... not I to hard-core BASHING, just general offroad/anywhere driving and some jumps and stuff....but not totally abusing the car to see what it can take...
if you have all those other cars, I would get a monster truck, i.e. the MT10. It can do different things than your other cars.
Parts are not readily available!!
haha 6 months ago I couldn't decide. I still cant!
The price increase is from the better radio.
So good, yet oh well I changed the servo, changed the hubs, broke and bent parts but it’s the best thing out there…. Ridiculous
Blew my motor barings in 4 batters and my motor had a fan on the motor
ouch!
Question why my vorteks get overbeating?
Make sure u have the smaller pinion on if ur bashing. Bigger pinion for speed running on flat smooth surface and make sure fans are working.
@@jessjoshwyatt3571 ok thanks.👍
Hi mate yeah I know what you mean i got a vorteks 4x4 3s for my grandson and realised it's got 3 right hand tyres and 1 left tyre. In otherwise 1 tyre is on the wrong way and I'm in Australia hahahahahaha. No support
You said that they are easy to contact their customer service is pretty good I don't agree what number do you have to call I would love to call them sobs yeah a sub because I'm really I've sent in three different cars I think this is my fourth one now and then the chassis freaking fell off the whole room and fell off the car when I was driving down the street I don't race in the dirt that's like that I just drive it in the street in parking lots stuff like that I don't really jump it . It just doesn't seem to like it. So I just fire up and down the street with it and Monday I was coming back flew down the street to my turnaround was coming back and I'll send the stocks so I went over there and the whole rear ends off it all cracked completely off and I don't know why I wasn't jumping I wasn't doing nothing I was just getting on it from the dead stop and yeah tires or balls from spinning so much on the pavement Arrma was going to replace the car I do not want to send it back in again that is such a pain in the ass they can just send me I'll fix it myself .
But what's his number you call I really would like to know please thank you very much. By the way I like your videos.
Their number is (877) 504-0233
Value I wouls say 4, the cheaper brands don't have the quality radio gear, ESC or motor that the arrma comes with and the build quality of the others is far lower.
All hobbywing electronics
@@MrBigChris620 don't know how you figure that, two different companies, all esc are different, Spektrum has smart technology, Hobbywing doesn't 🤷♂️ Spektrum has radio and servos, never seen Hobbywing handsets or receivers, the Spektrum esc programmer doesn't work on the Hobbywings, I know I have both.
Oh and Finally horizon hobby owns Spektrum, which is why all new Arrma and Losi models come with Spektrum and not Hobbywing because horizon hobby own both of them too.
From what I've read and understand Hobbywing makes all esc and motors for spectrum. Even the smart tec stuff
I would open the differentials and see for yourself that there is little or no diff fluid in them. Arrma cars never have any diff fluid in them, either just a smear of grease or nothing at all. Really, before you ever even use and Arrma car you should take it completely apart front and rear to put differential fluid into them since Arrma doesn't. Arrma cars don't come with differential fluid. If a Vorteks does it is the only Arrma car that does.
I wish I would’ve saw this before I just blew my rear diff on my senton
@@coleshobbies2405 It's not just to keep it from breaking. If you put 10,000 diff fluid in both front and rear the car will drive NOTICEABLY better to where even a newb like me notices a HUGE difference... and it even sounds a lot better.
And don't fill it too the top like people in the TH-cam videos do. That's wrong. You want an air pocket for the grease to churn into as the gears spin. I fill them so that the main center gear is just barely beneath the surface of the fluid.
If you are doing the differentials you will have to take the entire car mostly apart to do both of them... so you should also get rubber sealed bearings, many of which are on or in the differentials, and replace all the bearings while you do it since you have it all apart anyway.
Most people probably use the Fast Eddy bearing sets sold for each car like I did.
I don't have a Vorteks, I have a Kraton 4S and a Typhon 3S. If anyone out there also has the engineering disaster that is the Kraton 4S I have found the solution! Peel off the sticker that says "4S" and replace it with the "3S" sticker that came in the box with it to remind you that it can't handle 4S power and will fly apart internally if you try to use it on "4S". It's actually a Kraton 3S... and then it stops breaking itself just for being turned on.
@@kavikkang9411 That was Awesome Sir!!!
Nothing but problems for me so far
What kind of problems?
What kind of problems have you had?
@@RazorRC so far an over spun left rear driveshaft, replaced, then the wire for my steering a few runs the servo went... replaced.. bought 30$ wheels(30 for 2) rim bent on first flip.... on that same flip the plastic piece connected to 25t spline from servo to other steering components is snapped and metal ball is missing... now shes got no steering again.. got that part but aluminum and when it showed up it was longer than stock... so now i have some funangling to do :/
Wire kept coming undone***
3 stars at best! Rustler is way better Plain and simple
Durability a 5 star, yet you bent and broke parts….
Horrible review. Better than any other 10th scale.. who paid you off?
25 mins to say three mins of stuff at best.