German electronics technician here. Big fan of how your electrical system is layed out. Looks much better then in 99% of private boats ive seen. I believe for some reason most yanks like to run single core wire through tubes, while over here we use multicore cable without tubes for most things. You seem to have gone the extra mile and combined tubes with multicore cable. Plus all the boxes and fittings in plastic, I doubt you could do any better then that, awesome job ;)
Yes i think the same, twice the work here. we use this in norway. Easy easy m.th-cam.com/video/EWVmvWhhuYE/w-d-xo.html We also tape the end. If we need to drag it back for some reason.
I feel you guys are way off. Not thinking about this boat like a ship or an aircraft and treating it like a B.S. house construction will be the detriment of this project. It will be interesting to see how Leo does it. Cause Tally-Ho is a work of art. Same TH-cam, similar project but clearly Leo is spending every last dime on his boat.
@@rolandcox5162 Ive only seen electrical installation done better on a private boat once. And that was a rebuild done way over the top by a colleague of mine just for the heck of it. He did everything in armored cable inside steel cable runs, the kind that has steel wire mesh in the outer layer protecting it. All connection inside IP67 boxes. We had a lot of that stuff over from a job. When that boat goest down, at least the fish get some light for once. Most boats have single wire running between the plastic hull and furniture, without any protection, and those are usually fine too, so the way its done here is allready better then most boats and totally sufficiant.
When you pull the last wires in a conduit, add a nylon cord. If you find you need another wire in the future, you'll have an already installed messenger cable to pull it with and won't have to try to force a snake through existing wire bundles...
Steve, probably a day late and a dollar short, but here's a suggestion from an old wire puller. Using a vacuum cleaner to either suck or blow a string through a conduit is a really fast and efficient way to get a Pulling String in a duct. It eliminates the "snake" portion of the job. Also, it is handy to identify each conduit with color at each end while you have it ID'd.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148, you could just tape it, but I find a mouse with a quarter inch gap around the outside works well. I don't think the hole would be a problem.
As a tradesman who installs a lot of tie wraps, I'd recommend when you are trimming tie wraps, that you twist the ends off with linesman pliers instead of cutting them. Cut tie wraps are very sharp and reaching into a space with them will slice you open eventually. In my field, cut tie wraps are considered very bad practice.
In addition to all the other wiring suggestions, leave yourself a pull line of some sort in each of the conduits in case of wanting to add future stuff.
As a telecomms engineer we always pull in a new draw rope (string) as you use the existing one, same deal with the electrics before your plastic conduits get too busy to let you push in the draw tape.
As an electrician on ships I'm impressed on what your doing w the electrical and the whole boat, one handy tip when you cut the zip ties take a peice of sand paper and sand the sharp edge, ive been cut many times and seen people cut too many times cuzza a zip tie happens daily where I work I sand all I work near lol
I've used a lighter to smooth plastic sharps. Need to be careful not to burn, and definitely watch out for fire hazards, like a boathouse full of sawdust and solvents...
My job doesn't supply these specialty tools only side cutters for this purpose and many others plus most other people don't care enough till something happens, also my job uses zip ties as a temporary thing only, but yea their are other ways, I find it quick and easy to just hit it w sand paper and done no worries, edit: also can't use lighter where I work cuz its a flame and need a bunch of paperwork and authorization to use stuff that's produces heat
Finally I can sleep at night! Removal of the protective film is a must! Use a hair dryer and do t melt the film. NOT a heat gun!! Thanks for reading my post! And don’t forget that heater!!!
Thanks for a really nice episode, once again! I'm quite envious of being able to design an electrical system from scratch - I love doing electric stuff, but it's always been in pre-owned boats with 30 years or more of jerry rigging everything as the starting point :D This system looks so neat!
Thank you very much, Janne. It was a lot of research and things that aren’t really captured on camera that went into it. We appreciate that you see that!
Enjoyed the winter scenes. They added to the reality of pulling plastic off of metal surfaces, working with gloves on, and the general pace of working in frigid spaces.
Thank you for another Friday treat! All the wiring on my boat was well done, but I have no diagram ;-) You're doing a great job, and I applaud your ability to work at such temperatures! Twenty-five years in Finland still didn't prepare me for such fine work in the winter!
Electrical anything can be extremely fiddly... you've taken a well-planned approach and I expect that you'll have few issues once you power the system up. One thing I would suggest would be to test power each system or circuit individually to ensure that your layout and connections behave as expected. I know a lot of folks don't understand all of the minutiae outfitting a keel-up boat build but it is the attention to detail now that will save significant money, time, and heartache as you approach the completion and launch of Arabella. Well done Steve and the rest of the crew!! See you (from Hawaii) on your 200th episode!!
Tubing a great idea , if you can have the bilge pump wiring above the floor line , On your shower pump , gravety, or gloat pumps become a pain with first hand experience, have a simple on off switch in the bathroom, will save money , and much easier to use , install and repair,
Well it is Friday, or is it I forget in the warm-ish south. Really forgot what day it was, hung up my work boots many years ago. When I watch your videos I remember the good old days of working and caring about your work. And I remember it is Friday also...lol Great video guys doing a heck of a job!!
THANKS ABYC for setting a great standard to make future repairs easier and better for us all. Colors are free and so are ABYC's standards. Someone put a lot of thought to the eventual needs of every boat owner.
Excellent electrical system planning. I recommend to have addiitonal current capacity for any future add-ons in the outlet circuits. I'm sure some more experienced electrical professionals here can advise on this further.
Many years ago I worked in building and machine maintenance. We would use a wire pulling lubricant that helps the wires slide really well in the conduit during the pulling process.
We called it " GORILLA SNOT ". A yellow gooey lube that coats everything and is really nasty. Works really well and when pulling 10 or so 6 or 8 gauge wires through a 4 inch conduit between two buildings it's almost unthinkable to do without it. But for what is being done here it's an unnecessary expense/nasty mess. As Steve observed, the corrugations reduce friction nicely. Great thing about flex pipe is no elbows. Those are the biggest buggers to deal with
I don’t want to be one of those “This is how I’d do it” guys, but thought I’d offer some thoughts (as a master electrician and EE). Those junction boxes look VERY small, and you will likely wish they had more volume. Go larger now of you can. And if you use conduit, especially in a wet environment, it’s going to be much easier to run single conductors than those double sheathed cables. And the NEC is pretty good about tables for conduit fill, and you’d be amazed how many cables can go inside a 3/4” or 1” conduit, so you may have more than you need. I’ve never wired a boat, so I don’t have that experience, but my comments still apply. Don’t forget protection (fuses and breakers) in your system! Good luck on the build Steven.
I am retired from the commercial kitchen business. I have peeled ACRES of that darn film. Ten times easier if it’s either warmer or warmed up With a heat gun. Good luck, and love your project. Great people.
A suggestion from someone who worked with electricity in humid environments before: humidity can and will oxidize your wires, greatly reducing their amperage. When you open up a multicore cable, be sure to put heat-shrinking plastic on the opening, as it is a place where a ton of humidity and water will collect and stagnate. This will greatly reduce the possibility of humidity getting into your wire. Also, LABEL EVERYTHING on both sides with numbers.
I'm going to be that nerd, it's not a Truckers Hitch, I'm not sure what it's called otherwise, but the pulley tied up high like that is a waste of rope and time to a Trucker like myself
@@taylor.... well ye, but it was only a short distance so then it doesn't really matter, I think if he put it lower, it was harder to reach behind the stove.
@@taylor.... Looks like a truckers hitch to me, the pulley is tied correctly, he just did the end back down again and through the pulley twice for some reason. maybe he didn't think the knot would have been strong enough.
Use vacuum to suck the pull string through the tube instead of the using the metal spring.. Also pull a extra pull string in the tube with the wire, if you need to add extra wires in the tubes later...
Thanks for the look around outside after the snow storm. Coming from a place that doesn’t ever get below freezing it was interesting insight. Also I can’t imagine living somewhere so cold.
Glad you found a simpler way to make those junction box connections. Nice variety of projects this episode! The right tools make life so much easier and result in better quality job!
These are no ordinary bus bars, the material in this instance is tin plated copper, the spec of the copper being UNS C11000. > That last bit sounds too good to be true, but it is kosher. So the chances of it "rusting" are zero, nonetheless it would not hurt to use some appropriate product (not vaseline!) to arrest the tarnishing of the tin, or (worse) the formation of "tin whiskers" - lots of people use Boeshield T9 or Tectyl, but I imagine there are better options nowadays. It may be that the tinning is by dipping rather than electroplating, the former would make tin whiskers very unlikely indeed. And to be honest, they present very little risk in a high current situation, because they no sooner form a bridge between the polarities than they are destroyed by the resulting current flow.
We have just under a month of summer left here so spring for you is just under a month away . Thank you for working and entertaining us under trying conditions. Stay safe and warm. Regards from New Zealand
gonna miss Alex's narration... sorta sad he is off Arabella. Once I get caught up, later this week, I will stay current... been following since Steve & Alex were harvesting trees and Akiva was way more of a pup - LOL
As of this episode, Ben had been narrating for about two years. All is well! Glad to see your comments as you love up through, thanks so much for watching!
Place a small piece of green scrub pad or other open cell foam into the holes in the conduit. That will stop splashing water from mostly getting in, but allow draining.
I'd tie at least one light onto your outlet runs. It's a visual indicator that there's a issue with the circuit. Depending on usage an location you may not find a shorted outlet until it's too late. But a light not working can give you incentive to explore the circuit, an potential to find a weak connection before it builds enough heat to burn.
to be honest, as an electrical guy I wasn't completely sold on the electrical plan(and not for any specific reason). But I'm on board completely now. This work is as exemplary as the rest of the amazing work you've been doing. I stumbled on Arabella while researching dovetails and I've enjoyed every moment since. As a result, I now watch Western Flyer, Tally Ho and Salt and Tar. I've no desire to sail the ocean, but I'll gladly ride along on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your journey
Due to circumstances beyond my control I woke at the crack of noon. No matter: A2A and coffee in the afternoon is just as good as in the morning. That's much prettier wiring than I've seen on most small craft. Nicely done!
I had to wait until 6 pm to watch it. Found myself looking forward to it at several points. Great video again! Congrats on getting the first of the wiring done. Another milestone indeed!
@@AcornToArabella At my age I'm happy to be anywhere at any time. That was also true in my youth. However in the '70s I had my guardian angel working overtime. I had to make some adjustments. Enjoyment of every day has remained pretty constant. An attitude of gratitude yeilds so many benefits.
Looking good! You may want to consider getting a pair of flush cutting diagonal side cutters for the cable (zip) ties. It removes the "shark's teeth" that will slice your arms up when reaching past them.
Sitting here at Carnarvon gorge in 24c temp, beautiful sunny day with a few clouds and a light breeze. Just coming into autumn here. But it looks way to cold for me at the boat house.
Awesome progress You's guys... Hey Steve, it's a good practice to leave a messenger line in the conduit(s) so you can pull other wires if you get somewhere and don't have a fish tape handy. Make the messenger line a foot or two longer than twice the length of the conduit (to account for knots) and use half of the line at a time to pull stuff through. Use a larks head knot and some half hitches in the middle of your messenger to hold onto the wire(s) and you'll never have to pull the entire line through... and you won't lose the end of it. That way you always have a line in there to pull stuff back and forth. Great episode.. Good job, Anne.
If you're extra paranoid make the messenger line a loop and pull it in a circle so you always have an extra. A small can of wire lube is a smart thing to have as well.
When you're all done running conduits to/from a particular location, and you have thought of everything, add one more empty conduit. You can thank me later lol. Great job BTW.
You should fish 2 messenger strings so there is one messenger string in the conduit at all times. It's convenient in case you want to add another wire later on. Just a thought. Love your videos.
Super stoked to be coming to the open house on Friday and first time to check out Massachusetts too! coming from Salt Lake City Utah! Can’t wait to see the boat !
It's very important to get the electrical and plumbing sorted out early. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. I dearly wish I could be there for your 200th. But not going to happen.
So nice to see how it’s done! I also watch Good, Bad and Ugly and what a difference. Night and day. Also I compare your channel to Salt and Tar. He’s almost ghetto in his wish to be old school. Then I tune you in to see the proper way to build a real wooden boat. Thank you.
Different horses for different courses… they’re building a very different type of boat there, but it is very real 😊 thank you very much for watching, so glad you’re here!
The one thing I see that might not be good is that if you are running smaller gauge wire out of those boxes then those wires should be individually fused rather than using bus bars. 12v wiring will start fires just as happily as household wires. Ask me how I know ;)
Ive ran kerosene indoor heaters when furnance has gone out. I just put it in decrative(but functional flew not good at heating) fireplace to vent it. Long as u have fresh air u should be ok. Obviously a Co or Co2 alarm is good idea
Another terrific video. Being a New Englander myself, i am loving the artful winter shots. I am also a fan of Steve's thoughtful technical explanations.
Good call in drilling the holes in the conduit. In residential construction they aren’t allowing wiring until the building has dried in because they had issues with rainwater degrading nm cable insulation. Dunno about salt water tho
Dyno has fairly cheap electric labelers that take different type ribbons. The printable heat shrink tubing is really great for cables. Most of the time I do not even heat shrink it. I just slip it over the cable before attaching the connector. There is no glue to dry, no flag to tear or to block the view in narrow places.
To remove plastic film from stainless steel, warm the "other side" of the stainless, this way the adhesive holding the film is softened before the film itself.
@@danoyes1 That would be disastrous. Warming, yes, but baking no! The manufacturers specifically warn against turning the stove on before removing the film.
A few other commenters have made the same point but in moist environment oxidation will create resistance to the point of circuit failure. Using just compression connections on your lugs could come back to haunt you somewhere down the line, coatings and coverings may extend that; I'm a strong advocate of soldering lugs after crimping them, then coating them. I had a friend who's IO stopped going up and down, he was a machinist by trade his explanation of electricity was that it was all magic, it was 10 days to get a boatyard to look at his IO. I happened to stop by the day before he was planning on leaving for the San Juan's with his boat, before having the IO issue and boatyard timeline. The eraser on the end of a pencil to clean the contacts inside the glass fuse holders solved his problem. Oxidation built up enough resistance the IO wouldn't work. That's another point, don't use fuses, use circuit breakers instead, everywhere. Great job on the conduit and boxes. Also count me as one more to suggest leaving a pull line or extra wire for future use, just in case.
Gosh, that looks so cold! From one bundled up for early AM dog-walking (including shirt, two sweatshirts, and long(!!) pants to cope with the almost freezing 40 degrees F southern AZ weather BRRRR). LOL - couldn't do what you do in soooo many ways, but love watching you do it.
I see alot of people pulling wire and never pull a extra string with wire for the next time they have to make a wiring change it would make the changes or up dates so much easier. There may be some reason I not thinking of, definitely need to use good string that will stand upto the elements.
Steve, electrical install looks fantastic. One possible upgrade is to fuse each 'circuit' from the distribution boxes / buss bars. I just got a automotive style bus bar fuse box combined. which splits 6 ways with individual blade fuses. That way if you have a short or failure then you get immediate identification of the fault ond only lose one item / cable. Love the friday videos, congratulations on immense progress.
If that it NM cable, it’s not listed to be in a conduit. Regular THWN wire is wet listed to by in a raceway (conduit). ElectricianU has a great video on this. I would check that make sure you aren’t pulling wire that isn’t wet rated.
First time i've seen a stripper with that conformation. Except for the one I bought about 35 years ago! I, too, find it very quick and effective, and provided it's adjusted right you need never nick - or worse still, sever - any strands.
12:28 Ooooo. Watch for the dreaded "black wire" which is pretty common in DC wiring. The slightest moisture on an exposed wire with a constant (even if idle) DC voltage can cause untold trauma. My advice is to make really certain that every termination is well coated with something like Tectyl (if you can get it where you are) or the more messy but equally effective heavy duty grease. Do it while the wire is freshly stripped before any oxidation can set in. And be sure there are no cracks or nicks in the insulation. My 38 years of maintaining copper telephone cables taught me the dangers of water on an exposed "live" wire, even the measly 50 volts will destroy a cable pretty quickly, like overnight in a flood situation... Having said that, the drain holes are a good idea.
Be certain to memorialize that electrical plan you have drawn up. I would enlarge it to show every connection, and laminate it when you are done and keep it handy.
German electronics technician here. Big fan of how your electrical system is layed out. Looks much better then in 99% of private boats ive seen. I believe for some reason most yanks like to run single core wire through tubes, while over here we use multicore cable without tubes for most things. You seem to have gone the extra mile and combined tubes with multicore cable. Plus all the boxes and fittings in plastic, I doubt you could do any better then that, awesome job ;)
Thanks, that’s high praise, Herner! We appreciate it.
Multicore cable is flexible and i think better for a boat.
Yes i think the same, twice the work here. we use this in norway. Easy easy m.th-cam.com/video/EWVmvWhhuYE/w-d-xo.html
We also tape the end. If we need to drag it back for some reason.
I feel you guys are way off. Not thinking about this boat like a ship or an aircraft and treating it like a B.S. house construction will be the detriment of this project. It will be interesting to see how Leo does it. Cause Tally-Ho is a work of art. Same TH-cam, similar project but clearly Leo is spending every last dime on his boat.
@@rolandcox5162 Ive only seen electrical installation done better on a private boat once. And that was a rebuild done way over the top by a colleague of mine just for the heck of it. He did everything in armored cable inside steel cable runs, the kind that has steel wire mesh in the outer layer protecting it. All connection inside IP67 boxes. We had a lot of that stuff over from a job. When that boat goest down, at least the fish get some light for once.
Most boats have single wire running between the plastic hull and furniture, without any protection, and those are usually fine too, so the way its done here is allready better then most boats and totally sufficiant.
For that plastic peeling on the stove, get a heat gun or hair dryer to warmup the glue - it'll make the job a lot easier.
Don't forget the Heater too
Do you reckon Steve owns a hairdryer? 😉
@@northlandrider5396 no but Ann must!
When you pull the last wires in a conduit, add a nylon cord. If you find you need another wire in the future, you'll have an already installed messenger cable to pull it with and won't have to try to force a snake through existing wire bundles...
The A, B, C’s of every Friday morning- Acorn to Arabella, Bagel, Coffee. Sheer bliss.
Aww. Happy Friday, Irwin.
Steve, probably a day late and a dollar short, but here's a suggestion from an old wire puller. Using a vacuum cleaner to either suck or blow a string through a conduit is a really fast and efficient way to get a Pulling String in a duct. It eliminates the "snake" portion of the job. Also, it is handy to identify each conduit with color at each end while you have it ID'd.
You beat me to this. Works like a dream.
Always pull extra tape/string. Always.
We call it mousing. It works great. I use fishing line with a mouse made of dryer sheets. Make it a quarter inch small.
He drilled holes in his conduit. Won't work very well.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148, you could just tape it, but I find a mouse with a quarter inch gap around the outside works well. I don't think the hole would be a problem.
As a tradesman who installs a lot of tie wraps, I'd recommend when you are trimming tie wraps, that you twist the ends off with linesman pliers instead of cutting them. Cut tie wraps are very sharp and reaching into a space with them will slice you open eventually. In my field, cut tie wraps are considered very bad practice.
I was going to suggest the same thing
At a minimum he can rotate the cut ends to the back so it is not facing out towards him.
It's amazing how many pros don't know that trick.
Get a Thomas & Betts ERG50 Ty-rapp gun. Adjustable to pull them to the perfect tension and cuts them recessed a bit.
@@stevereinhart4067, our guys that pull a lot of tech use them. They work well, but for a project this size, twisting is cheaper.
In addition to all the other wiring suggestions, leave yourself a pull line of some sort in each of the conduits in case of wanting to add future stuff.
Agreed. And tie a new pull line onto each new wire run so there's always one left in.
Beat me too it, another option is to pull a “spare” cable entirely
As a telecomms engineer we always pull in a new draw rope (string) as you use the existing one, same deal with the electrics before your plastic conduits get too busy to let you push in the draw tape.
The extras. Yup.
As an electrician on ships I'm impressed on what your doing w the electrical and the whole boat, one handy tip when you cut the zip ties take a peice of sand paper and sand the sharp edge, ive been cut many times and seen people cut too many times cuzza a zip tie happens daily where I work I sand all I work near lol
I've used a lighter to smooth plastic sharps. Need to be careful not to burn, and definitely watch out for fire hazards, like a boathouse full of sawdust and solvents...
There are tools to tension and cut the ties neatly, stops having those sharp edges.
Set of flush cut side cutters does the trick, if you can not find some just use a linisher on the back of a normal set and make your own.
My job doesn't supply these specialty tools only side cutters for this purpose and many others plus most other people don't care enough till something happens, also my job uses zip ties as a temporary thing only, but yea their are other ways, I find it quick and easy to just hit it w sand paper and done no worries, edit: also can't use lighter where I work cuz its a flame and need a bunch of paperwork and authorization to use stuff that's produces heat
Finally I can sleep at night! Removal of the protective film is a must! Use a hair dryer and do t melt the film. NOT a heat gun!!
Thanks for reading my post! And don’t forget that heater!!!
Of course, Bud, and thank YOU!
Very neat electrical work. Also pretty corrosion proof with heat shrinking.
Love the atmospheric shots on this one!
I'm amazed about your ability to work with such temperatures.... From a french fan. Thank you.
Thanks for a really nice episode, once again! I'm quite envious of being able to design an electrical system from scratch - I love doing electric stuff, but it's always been in pre-owned boats with 30 years or more of jerry rigging everything as the starting point :D This system looks so neat!
Thank you very much, Janne. It was a lot of research and things that aren’t really captured on camera that went into it. We appreciate that you see that!
system looks good. also, kudos for taking the advice to simplify your conduit connections.
Enjoyed the winter scenes. They added to the reality of pulling plastic off of metal surfaces, working with gloves on, and the general pace of working in frigid spaces.
Thank you for another Friday treat! All the wiring on my boat was well done, but I have no diagram ;-)
You're doing a great job, and I applaud your ability to work at such temperatures! Twenty-five years in Finland still didn't prepare me for such fine work in the winter!
Thank you for another entertaining video.
love the junction box idea!
Electrical anything can be extremely fiddly... you've taken a well-planned approach and I expect that you'll have few issues once you power the system up. One thing I would suggest would be to test power each system or circuit individually to ensure that your layout and connections behave as expected. I know a lot of folks don't understand all of the minutiae outfitting a keel-up boat build but it is the attention to detail now that will save significant money, time, and heartache as you approach the completion and launch of Arabella. Well done Steve and the rest of the crew!! See you (from Hawaii) on your 200th episode!!
Tubing a great idea , if you can have the bilge pump wiring above the floor line ,
On your shower pump , gravety, or gloat pumps become a pain with first hand experience, have a simple on off switch in the bathroom, will save money , and much easier to use , install and repair,
Steve - those heated softshells are awesome for the treestand during cold deer hunts!
Fanly!! Love and peace.
Hi from Vienna, Austria
Hello! Happy Friday!
Servas!
@@Rockmaster867 Servas
Well it is Friday, or is it I forget in the warm-ish south. Really forgot what day it was, hung up my work boots many years ago. When I watch your videos I remember the good old days of working and caring about your work. And I remember it is Friday also...lol
Great video guys doing a heck of a job!!
THANKS ABYC for setting a great standard to make future repairs easier and better for us all. Colors are free and so are ABYC's standards. Someone put a lot of thought to the eventual needs of every boat owner.
Excellent electrical system planning. I recommend to have addiitonal current capacity for any future add-ons in the outlet circuits. I'm sure some more experienced electrical professionals here can advise on this further.
I'm an old sparky, nice work the the power lines
Many years ago I worked in building and machine maintenance. We would use a wire pulling lubricant that helps the wires slide really well in the conduit during the pulling process.
Great tip!
We called it " GORILLA SNOT ". A yellow gooey lube that coats everything and is really nasty. Works really well and when pulling 10 or so 6 or 8 gauge wires through a 4 inch conduit between two buildings it's almost unthinkable to do without it. But for what is being done here it's an unnecessary expense/nasty mess. As Steve observed, the corrugations reduce friction nicely. Great thing about flex pipe is no elbows. Those are the biggest buggers to deal with
I don’t want to be one of those “This is how I’d do it” guys, but thought I’d offer some thoughts (as a master electrician and EE). Those junction boxes look VERY small, and you will likely wish they had more volume. Go larger now of you can. And if you use conduit, especially in a wet environment, it’s going to be much easier to run single conductors than those double sheathed cables. And the NEC is pretty good about tables for conduit fill, and you’d be amazed how many cables can go inside a 3/4” or 1” conduit, so you may have more than you need. I’ve never wired a boat, so I don’t have that experience, but my comments still apply. Don’t forget protection (fuses and breakers) in your system! Good luck on the build Steven.
I am retired from the commercial kitchen business. I have peeled ACRES of that darn film. Ten times easier if it’s either warmer or warmed up
With a heat gun. Good luck, and love your project. Great people.
Thank you, Dennis!
I think your channel is the best of all I have seen in TH-cam. I admire Your work so much. Best regards from Finland.
Thank you, Juha, that’s very kind.
Guys, even with the heater must be damn cold inside the boat house. Wood panels are impressive. Great job
It really just takes the edge off. Happy Friday, Tom!
Another tip use a flush cutter for cutting of the excess from the zipties .....the extra effort saves your fingers along the way
Hi from Norwich UK
Hello! Happy Friday!
A suggestion from someone who worked with electricity in humid environments before: humidity can and will oxidize your wires, greatly reducing their amperage. When you open up a multicore cable, be sure to put heat-shrinking plastic on the opening, as it is a place where a ton of humidity and water will collect and stagnate. This will greatly reduce the possibility of humidity getting into your wire. Also, LABEL EVERYTHING on both sides with numbers.
Hello Francesco! We plan to do a spray, probably silicone, on everything once it’s put together. Thanks for sharing your experience and advice!
Seeing that that truckers hitch makes me very happy!
I'm going to be that nerd, it's not a Truckers Hitch, I'm not sure what it's called otherwise, but the pulley tied up high like that is a waste of rope and time to a Trucker like myself
@@taylor.... well ye, but it was only a short distance so then it doesn't really matter, I think if he put it lower, it was harder to reach behind the stove.
@@taylor.... Looks like a truckers hitch to me, the pulley is tied correctly, he just did the end back down again and through the pulley twice for some reason. maybe he didn't think the knot would have been strong enough.
Top class wiring with nice connectors, shrink-wrap and neatly terminated👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, Rick!
Looking really really good Steve! Impressive attention to detail regards the SS work and wiring built to last.
Just thinking back to those sweaty, hot days of summer. I can deal with the heat, not the cold, 84 yesterday here in Sarasota... Doing a great job.
Use vacuum to suck the pull string through the tube instead of the using the metal spring..
Also pull a extra pull string in the tube with the wire, if you need to add extra wires in the tubes later...
Thanks for the look around outside after the snow storm. Coming from a place that doesn’t ever get below freezing it was interesting insight. Also I can’t imagine living somewhere so cold.
Glad you found a simpler way to make those junction box connections. Nice variety of projects this episode! The right tools make life so much easier and result in better quality job!
I’d spray those bus bars with CRC or some other kind of conductive lubricant, they rust bad. Thanks for the awesome content.
for salt water use maybe a good electric grease what they also use in car connectors to prevent corrosion. may be good for long run
These are no ordinary bus bars, the material in this instance is tin plated copper, the spec of the copper being UNS C11000.
> That last bit sounds too good to be true, but it is kosher.
So the chances of it "rusting" are zero, nonetheless it would not hurt to use some appropriate product (not vaseline!) to arrest the tarnishing of the tin, or (worse) the formation of "tin whiskers" - lots of people use Boeshield T9 or Tectyl, but I imagine there are better options nowadays.
It may be that the tinning is by dipping rather than electroplating, the former would make tin whiskers very unlikely indeed. And to be honest, they present very little risk in a high current situation, because they no sooner form a bridge between the polarities than they are destroyed by the resulting current flow.
G'Day from Sunny Queensland Australia
A shop vacuum will pull string in your conduit. Just tie a small piece of grocery bag on the string and suck it through. It works great
We have just under a month of summer left here so spring for you is just under a month away . Thank you for working and entertaining us under trying conditions. Stay safe and warm. Regards from New Zealand
We wish. March in New England is still winter usually. Sometimes so is April.
In Maine, the old timers call it “climbing March hill.”
@@AcornToArabella Never heard that, but I like it.
I love quality of work done and the well-thought out long term sustainable solutions great to watch as always
Looking great! All of the extra work now will give peace of mind at sea, so it is time well spent!
gonna miss Alex's narration... sorta sad he is off Arabella. Once I get caught up, later this week, I will stay current... been following since Steve & Alex were harvesting trees and Akiva was way more of a pup - LOL
As of this episode, Ben had been narrating for about two years. All is well! Glad to see your comments as you love up through, thanks so much for watching!
@@AcornToArabella really! Well great... I did notice the narration did not change thru 200th. Figured it had already been taped. LOL
Place a small piece of green scrub pad or other open cell foam into the holes in the conduit. That will stop splashing water from mostly getting in, but allow draining.
Really appreciate you showing and explaining the electrical. Hope to see more details as you go.
Thanks! Happy Friday to you!
Another great A2A video! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, David!
I hope you're staying safe during that winter storm. Kind of nuts they went and named the whole thing
Yeah they never named storms when we were kids, but it gives you something to yell at as you’re shoveling. 😉
I'd tie at least one light onto your outlet runs. It's a visual indicator that there's a issue with the circuit. Depending on usage an location you may not find a shorted outlet until it's too late. But a light not working can give you incentive to explore the circuit, an potential to find a weak connection before it builds enough heat to burn.
Would fuses or breakers not be preferable?
to be honest, as an electrical guy I wasn't completely sold on the electrical plan(and not for any specific reason). But I'm on board completely now. This work is as exemplary as the rest of the amazing work you've been doing. I stumbled on Arabella while researching dovetails and I've enjoyed every moment since. As a result, I now watch Western Flyer, Tally Ho and Salt and Tar. I've no desire to sail the ocean, but I'll gladly ride along on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your journey
Thanks for being here, Chris!
It's so great to see the first electrical going in. Very exciting. Congrats on your milestone
Thank you!
Time and money spent now doing the wiring according to ABYC standards will pay off in the long run...well done guys!
Due to circumstances beyond my control I woke at the crack of noon. No matter: A2A and coffee in the afternoon is just as good as in the morning. That's much prettier wiring than I've seen on most small craft. Nicely done!
I had to wait until 6 pm to watch it. Found myself looking forward to it at several points. Great video again! Congrats on getting the first of the wiring done. Another milestone indeed!
There you are, Bill! Happy Friday.
@@AcornToArabella At my age I'm happy to be anywhere at any time. That was also true in my youth. However in the '70s I had my guardian angel working overtime. I had to make some adjustments. Enjoyment of every day has remained pretty constant. An attitude of gratitude yeilds so many benefits.
Looking good! You may want to consider getting a pair of flush cutting diagonal side cutters for the cable (zip) ties. It removes the "shark's teeth" that will slice your arms up when reaching past them.
Sitting here at Carnarvon gorge in 24c temp, beautiful sunny day with a few clouds and a light breeze. Just coming into autumn here. But it looks way to cold for me at the boat house.
Carnarvon gorge Queensland btw. There are two Carnarvon gorges in Australia. On opposite sides of the country. The other is in Western Australia.
Well done guys. It’s coming along. Great job 👍
I’m shivering for you both.
It’s been rough, Kip! Thanks for being here!
Awesome progress You's guys... Hey Steve, it's a good practice to leave a messenger line in the conduit(s) so you can pull other wires if you get somewhere and don't have a fish tape handy. Make the messenger line a foot or two longer than twice the length of the conduit (to account for knots) and use half of the line at a time to pull stuff through. Use a larks head knot and some half hitches in the middle of your messenger to hold onto the wire(s) and you'll never have to pull the entire line through... and you won't lose the end of it. That way you always have a line in there to pull stuff back and forth. Great episode.. Good job, Anne.
If you're extra paranoid make the messenger line a loop and pull it in a circle so you always have an extra.
A small can of wire lube is a smart thing to have as well.
Another fine show folks. Thank you.
Thanks, Andrew! Happy Friday!
I'm sorry you're fighting that big snow storm but I hope to see you every week cuz I love watching your show
Thank you, Clarence! We’re doing a-ok!
Great video guys. Steve, love the red nail polish!
Oh Simon you know that’s me, dude! -Anne
But srsly everyone should brighten their day somehow! I’ve got plenty of friends all over the gender spectrum who like to get fancy. ✨
When you're all done running conduits to/from a particular location, and you have thought of everything, add one more empty conduit. You can thank me later lol.
Great job BTW.
That old FISHER plow is still running like a top. Built to last! 👍 Happy Friday!
You should fish 2 messenger strings so there is one messenger string in the conduit at all times. It's convenient in case you want to add another wire later on. Just a thought. Love your videos.
We pulled through a new messenger with the wire.
Super stoked to be coming to the open house on Friday and first time to check out Massachusetts too! coming from Salt Lake City Utah! Can’t wait to see the boat !
It's very important to get the electrical and plumbing sorted out early. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. I dearly wish I could be there for your 200th. But not going to happen.
I like the idea of the flexible conduit.
Awesome to see things taking shape.
So nice to see how it’s done! I also watch Good, Bad and Ugly and what a difference. Night and day. Also I compare your channel to Salt and Tar. He’s almost ghetto in his wish to be old school. Then I tune you in to see the proper way to build a real wooden boat.
Thank you.
Different horses for different courses… they’re building a very different type of boat there, but it is very real 😊 thank you very much for watching, so glad you’re here!
Well done, fine folks! Your lectric stuff looks great.
The one thing I see that might not be good is that if you are running smaller gauge wire out of those boxes then those wires should be individually fused rather than using bus bars. 12v wiring will start fires just as happily as household wires. Ask me how I know ;)
looking good. another great, and informative episode.
Great episode! Top notch electrical job! Good editing! Loved the music, Ben! Somebody get the ice out of Steve’s beard! 😉
Ive ran kerosene indoor heaters when furnance has gone out. I just put it in decrative(but functional flew not good at heating) fireplace to vent it. Long as u have fresh air u should be ok. Obviously a Co or Co2 alarm is good idea
Yup, we have a CO alarm.
welding the back corners of Gimbled Stove box keeps split foods out of in accessible frames?Love Da Boat!
Awesome progress
Sit.....Thank You. I smile.
Another terrific video. Being a New Englander myself, i am loving the artful winter shots. I am also a fan of Steve's thoughtful technical explanations.
Thanks so much!
Good call in drilling the holes in the conduit. In residential construction they aren’t allowing wiring until the building has dried in because they had issues with rainwater degrading nm cable insulation. Dunno about salt water tho
Dyno has fairly cheap electric labelers that take different type ribbons. The printable heat shrink tubing is really great for cables. Most of the time I do not even heat shrink it. I just slip it over the cable before attaching the connector. There is no glue to dry, no flag to tear or to block the view in narrow places.
Neat! Thanks for adding that suggestion!
G "Day from Adelaide Australia
G’day! Happy Friday!
Use toenail clippers to cut your nylon wire ties, using side cutters leaves a sharp edge.
To remove plastic film from stainless steel, warm the "other side" of the stainless, this way the adhesive holding the film is softened before the film itself.
Sounds like they needed to bake a mess of biscuits!
@@danoyes1 That would be disastrous. Warming, yes, but baking no! The manufacturers specifically warn against turning the stove on before removing the film.
@@Gottenhimfella 😳🔥😫
A few other commenters have made the same point but in moist environment oxidation will create resistance to the point of circuit failure. Using just compression connections on your lugs could come back to haunt you somewhere down the line, coatings and coverings may extend that; I'm a strong advocate of soldering lugs after crimping them, then coating them. I had a friend who's IO stopped going up and down, he was a machinist by trade his explanation of electricity was that it was all magic, it was 10 days to get a boatyard to look at his IO. I happened to stop by the day before he was planning on leaving for the San Juan's with his boat, before having the IO issue and boatyard timeline. The eraser on the end of a pencil to clean the contacts inside the glass fuse holders solved his problem. Oxidation built up enough resistance the IO wouldn't work. That's another point, don't use fuses, use circuit breakers instead, everywhere. Great job on the conduit and boxes. Also count me as one more to suggest leaving a pull line or extra wire for future use, just in case.
Back for another midnight viewing from Australia. Great video as always. Keep at em team can't wait for the launch!
Gosh, that looks so cold! From one bundled up for early AM dog-walking (including shirt, two sweatshirts, and long(!!) pants to cope with the almost freezing 40 degrees F southern AZ weather BRRRR). LOL - couldn't do what you do in soooo many ways, but love watching you do it.
I see alot of people pulling wire and never pull a extra string with wire for the next time they have to make a wiring change it would make the changes or up dates so much easier. There may be some reason I not thinking of, definitely need to use good string that will stand upto the elements.
Nice. Very neat and well thought out. 👍👍
Steve, electrical install looks fantastic. One possible upgrade is to fuse each 'circuit' from the distribution boxes / buss bars. I just got a automotive style bus bar fuse box combined. which splits 6 ways with individual blade fuses. That way if you have a short or failure then you get immediate identification of the fault ond only lose one item / cable. Love the friday videos, congratulations on immense progress.
Thanks for being here, happy Friday!
Greetings from Tug Hill NY
Looking good
Think SNOW!!!!!!
If that it NM cable, it’s not listed to be in a conduit. Regular THWN wire is wet listed to by in a raceway (conduit). ElectricianU has a great video on this. I would check that make sure you aren’t pulling wire that isn’t wet rated.
First time i've seen a stripper with that conformation.
Except for the one I bought about 35 years ago!
I, too, find it very quick and effective, and provided it's adjusted right you need never nick - or worse still, sever - any strands.
Nothin like neat insatllations Steve makes life easier, have a nice day all !!!>
12:28 Ooooo. Watch for the dreaded "black wire" which is pretty common in DC wiring. The slightest moisture on an exposed wire with a constant (even if idle) DC voltage can cause untold trauma. My advice is to make really certain that every termination is well coated with something like Tectyl (if you can get it where you are) or the more messy but equally effective heavy duty grease. Do it while the wire is freshly stripped before any oxidation can set in. And be sure there are no cracks or nicks in the insulation. My 38 years of maintaining copper telephone cables taught me the dangers of water on an exposed "live" wire, even the measly 50 volts will destroy a cable pretty quickly, like overnight in a flood situation... Having said that, the drain holes are a good idea.
We plan to give everything a little spray of silicone, most likely. Great point!
@@AcornToArabella A lil' silicone grease sray is even better. 2 Italian and one Brit old cars* dreaded wirings* experience talking here.
Be certain to memorialize that electrical plan you have drawn up. I would enlarge it to show every connection, and laminate it when you are done and keep it handy.