Wow you're really opened my eyes on Sarah Cody I didn't know it was such a tremendous process as a matter of fact I just sent out my slide from my glock to be cerakoted and I know for a fact the guy who's doing my gun is also an artist so he's similar like to you the rifle that you just did was beautiful job thank you for your great video again you really opened my eyes on Sarah coating
HV Cerakote? lol I just got a notification on Instagram. Feel free to subscribe and use my video any time, Im getting ready to do another one on the subject real soon. I get that a lot about the pricing...why in the hell would that cost $500, I could do that myself with $20 worth of spray paint. Cool story bro, let me know how that works out for you. But yea thanks for the support. Im glad to help shed some light into the process so maybe people can visually see it start to finish and realize a good Cerakote applicator is probably doing twice the work he deserves to be paid for the amount of work he just quoted a price on
@@360TacticalSolutions I've been working with this stuff for a little over a year and just got around to doing the BW/camo patterns. Not only does it take literally forever to do some of these, but the cost of all the gear needed isn't cheap either.
I love this video. I grew up in a garage working on minibikes, go carts, my father was a body man for 70 years. I stripped, sanded, primed, puttied, sanded, and sprayed, wet sanded, polished, cleared, AHH, you get it. I got into building car audio, fiberglass boxes, fabricated door panels, and custom center consoles. Now I restore just about anything. It's a labor of love, that end result of a job extremely well done. Anybody can do half assed work. Now when I go to a car show and I see shaved gas doors, key holes, and antennas, I look at the paint straight down the side of the car for flaws, any ripples, orange peel, fisheyes, and when I see perfection I ask who painted this car? And when the owner says, "I did" I immediately know what kind of man I'm standing next to. And I am honored to meet them. I will definitely give this a try. I too create and cut stencils and would love to see what I can do with this Cerakote.
Also when removing the battle worn black make use you rub the same direction on sides sides. Ive had my lines go up and down and side to side on other parts. And don't over cure your white or red. The black will pop off and flake off. You don't need to go all the way black either but if you spray the black gingerly. Be careful and you still have to avoid dry spray. Dry spray will cure ruff and feel like sand paper. Just a heads up
No. There is a certain amount of thickness added to the parts. The base layer is pretty thin and each layer after that is even more thin. You try and avoid spraying internals and things like holes for take down pins more than you have to. An experienced cerakote applicator can do the job without there being an issue
I use a round file in my take down pin holes. If you force it you may cause chipping. And Start at the most difficult spots first to avoid and runs or over spray. When spray multiple colors don't overspray. The goal here is to not feel any ridges.you want it to look as if it was done all at once and you want the feel to match. And be smooth. But if you feel ridges I've found after a 15 minute cure at 225° I've taken my thumb nail and knocked them down but that's cutting corners. But as you spend more time in your paint booth and work with this product you'll figure out your own means and methods of the cerakote procedure
Thanks for the video, great job! Just wondering if you're not concerned about oils from your hands while handling pieces between flash curing? I'm new to cerakoting and haven't tackled anything other single colors yet. Thanks again!
I used to really worry about it. Tried wearing gloves but when im stenciling that just doesn't work. I tried using acetone to get all the oils off my hands but that dries them out really bad. At a certain point I just realized that if you wash your hands with warm water and dish soap before you get started...thats good enough. Thats going to depend on your skin type of course. If you have super oily hands then it may be an issue. Really though im not holding parts tight, its a loose grip. Im trying to not handle things more than what's needed. Play around with it and you will see. It's not as huge a deal as it seems like.
lol thanks. People just look at Cerakote like its as easy as throwing it down on a table and hitting it with some rattle can. Because of that they don't understand why the price is what it is. I do feel like I should do an updated video on this topic soon, maybe in the spring
I have started a company where I make custom archery bows with fairly expensive parts even at my cost wholesale. We have done research and development for over a year now, and are still developing different models. Needless to say, people think we are Sanford and Son, and think that 300 for the baseline bow with no ups and no extra's is an outrageous price. LOL, I tell them to go to Walmart because I guarantee that the Pro shop downtown doesn't Pawn Shop barter. TY for explaining this process to make Quality, and Durability in a product. Eldan Fales. Blue Dragon Archery.
So other than the fabulous finish when you’re done I would’ve stopped at the red white and blue however do you treat that gun like a regular gun do you or you don’t oil it do you? Can you clean it with regular gotten solvent? Or do you have to learn or use different techniques to have to take care of the pain? Is it paint 😳I guess I don’t fully understand? BEAUTIFUL JOB❤️🇺🇸
Excellent questions. I put down the black over top like that because just doing the red white and blue makes it look more like a toy than I like. The coating it’s self is a ceramic base so it’s very durable. Definitely not a paint. It can withstand all kinds of oils and solvents, doesn’t fade from UV exposure and is very scratch resistant. Cerakote doesn’t last forever but it’s the longest lasting aftermarket product there is. I treat my cerakoted weapons just the same as any others. I don’t use special cleaners or oils. I might be a little more careful and avoid scratching them but the stuff really does last a very long time
Are gloves not necessary when laying the stencils? I would think the oil from our hands would contaminate the layers that are exposed? Just getting into this and want to make sure I'm not screwing myself.
That’s a really good question. I tried it with gloves on and struggled. Stencils stock to the gloves constantly and it’s hard to get accurate stencil placement. I done use gloves when stenciling anymore and you are going to find people who will say gloves are important when stenciling just as easily as you will find people saying gloves don’t matter. I wash my hands really well with a good dish soap before doing any stencil work. That helps remove excess oils really well. Everyone is going to be different though. If you are the kind of person who has naturally oily skin then that’s something you may want to watch out for. I try not to handle the parts I’m working on excessively. I get my stencils on and i use a light touch during handling. I’ve never seen an issue where the oils from my hands created a defect in the Cerakote...but I’m cautious, I clean my hands well and if I notice a spot I’ll use acetone and wipe down before I spray
@@360TacticalSolutions awesome, I used to do ALOT of airbrushing and custom RC Car bodies so stencils are a huge part of that. I first tried it with gloves but quickly gave up and was just extra careful. Thanks for the prompt reply. Much appreciated!
I was just thinking about that distressed dark red Cerakote job I was wanting for that future Rock Island 2011 I've been wanting. Not wanting any stencils though.
Texas BEAST that will look really good on that gun. Make sure you find a good cerakote applicator in your area for the job. With the 1911 platform it’s especially important the coating be the right thickness due to the weapons tolerances
What type of vinyl is being used for this. I'm hoping to start doing my own cerakote and maybe start a business later so watching a lot of videos on the subject. Thanks
I use Avery Dennison high heat vinyl. Honestly my best advice is to sub over at the Branson Cerakote channel and watch all John’s videos. Then order any stencils you want from their site while you are getting started cerakoting. Im going on 5 years doing it now and I started out by watching the Branson Cerakote channel to learn how to do it
I never had anyone complain about prices to me personally. I have had them tell me i was cheaper than anyone else. For a one solid color of an ar15/ar10/sbr i charge $200. For 3 and four color patterns weather battle worn or not i charge $350. I have had weapons show up that were extremely poorly done and its obvious looking out them they weren't disassembled, confirmed when i disassemble. Those shops had the nerve to charge $500 for that. Its gives the true professionals like us a bad rap to the people that just classify us all in that category. Thats why i give satisfaction guarantee. I do my battle worn similar to the way you do. Some times i use a painters rag i have damped with acetone. I tell ya what makes a good battle worn color ive found is using frost white for the base, then cobolt (h series in the grey color section not the v series cobolt black) over it then doing the acetone wiping. Also with crimson red over frost white
Only ones that ever complain about price are the ones that don’t understand the value in a job being done right. I have tried the acetone wipe before and it’s not bad, I just prefer the look of the scotchbrite. It’s all preference. Oh and $200 on a single color, totally reasonable
@@360TacticalSolutions there's times I do the scotch Brite as well. Alot of times I leave it 5 or 10 minutes longer than I should have and end up having too but regardless I just take my time until it looks basically the same way. With gas getting expensive and everything else not many people were spending money in my area. Made things difficult especially running low on acetone, scotch Brite pads, mini 100 and 150micron cone filters I like using, plus running out of graphite and gloss black arguably most important most used colors as well as needing more stencils. I have switched awhile back to simple green for degreasing as mixing it 1:1 with water 5gal of mix is the same price as 1gal acetone. I been thinking about making my own stencils if I get the printer
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote best advice I can give you is to buy the Silhouette Cameo cutter. Its going to pay for its self almost instantly. I bought that one because it has a self adjusting blade and really easy to use software to design stencils. It took me a few days of messing with it before I started designing window stickers and stencils. Seriously the sale of custom made window stickers paid for the cutter in less than two months. Long term…I make all my stencils for Cerakoting, I make window stickers for people and I cut all the 360 Tactical Solutions stickers that I give out to people constantly. That cutter was the best investment I’ve made in a long time
@@360TacticalSolutions man thank you, I know people who buy other ones and are stuck trying to download files off line that end up being horrible patterns that for myself I can't use. Thank you for that it's what I will check on getting right now
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote oh ya you want the Silouhette for sure. You can make your own designs or copy items that you download online. Its real easy to use and makes a damn good set of stencils
Colorfill drives me crazy. In some situations it can look good. Most of the time it ends up looking trashy. Let’s say you have an FDE pistol frame but the slide is black. You add a black magwell to it and backfill the lettering on the slide with FDE without it looking like a two year old did it, well then it all matches and makes at least some sense. But this ridiculous fad of filling the lettering with a random color and using nail polish out model paint just needs to end lol
If you have a fully stripped weapon , cerakote done by a professional shouldn't cost you more than 300 bucks at the most (solid colors ). If somebody's trying to charge you more than that just find somebody else. Now if you're trying to get something custom/fancy that's when the prices could be through the roof because you're paying for the skills/labor
If a weapon is fully stripped....you are just dropping off the upper, lower and hand guard...no disassembly or reassembly its real hard to see anything past $200 for a single color job. Its the intricate multi color patterns that break the bank. But of course if you want it to look the best its going to cost.
As someone just getting into this i would say it’s probably a relief to get a firearm fully stripped and each part you want coated ready for surface prep. Ive owned a modest amount of guns and love working on them but I am by no means confident in taking every kind if firearm down to component parts and have to reassemble them. Thats a huge headache Id be grateful to not have to deal with and yes the price would definitely reflect that “gratitude”. Single color applications are easy enough and arent as labor intensive. I did a 5 color camo on my shotgun and the spray, flash, cool, stencil repeat cycle is massively time consuming and every additional step adds increased chance of failure. Complexity ramps up price very quickly.
Unexpected and very welcome comment from the channel that got me started working with Cerakote. Thank you. BTW thats your tattered flag stencil in the video. These days I design and cut all my own stencils other than the tattered flag. That one I elusively use the Branson Cerakote stencil. Made a couple versions myself but they didn't compare
If only the ATF didn’t regulate Cerakote the way they do. Unfortunately because of the licensing requirements I dont do any cerakote work outside of my own personal projects and a few unserialized parts here and there. If you are looking to ave one done in this style my recommendation would be Branson Cerakote. Because they are an FFL you can ship direct to them, they will cerakote your rifle and then can legally ship it directly back to you. Branson does incredible work and has more than reasonable pricing
Yes and no. Every shop has different rates. I feel like the going price for a two color AR is like $250, If I were to charge for the job that was done in this video id be asking like $600....IF I were licensed to do business like that. I will say its a labor intensive craft and if you want it done right its not going to be cheap. That doesn't mean you have to get ripped off though. If your local shop is asking $500, check Branson Cerakote website for pricing. They seem to be the most reasonable and they are great people to work with
@@ferrasgunreviews3426 ya there's a lot of that happening. Thats why I recommend Branson. They are a legit shop with their FFL so you can legally ship it to them, they can do the work and ship it right back to you. Defiantly worth looking into. I had the same issue locally. Got quoted like $500 to do the slide on my Girlfriends pistol in pink and said screw that ill learn to do it myself lol
@@ferrasgunreviews3426 I believe they are moving into their new shop right now. Looks like they are almost done judging by their TH-cam channel. On their site there is a contact button where someone can give you a pricing quote and go over all the specifics for shipping. bransoncerakote.com/cerakote-services/
I never really thought it was expensive. Unless a price jump happened and I missed it. But this video just showed how it should be cheaper. Why do you think so many people do it now? I’m very familiar with the process. Half of it you can walk away while the chemicals are doing its job. You made it look like any construction worker that was good at puzzles and stickers could do the same. Which they can. Smh
Anyone can operate a spray gun and paint a car….that doesnt mean they can do a quality job that lasts or that they will know what to do when issues come up. Sure any construction worker can lay down some cerakote. They can buy or build a curing oven and an air compressor and an air dryer and sand blaster…sure they can go buy a spray gun and do their own work. Go ahead and do that, send me some pics of your work. Id love to see it. Id love to see you put the time into building the skills and then tell me how cheap cerakote should be
Wow you're really opened my eyes on Sarah Cody I didn't know it was such a tremendous process as a matter of fact I just sent out my slide from my glock to be cerakoted and I know for a fact the guy who's doing my gun is also an artist so he's similar like to you the rifle that you just did was beautiful job thank you for your great video again you really opened my eyes on Sarah coating
This has to be the question I get most, why is it so expensive. I’m just going to direct them to this video so theycan see and actually understand!!
HV Cerakote? lol I just got a notification on Instagram. Feel free to subscribe and use my video any time, Im getting ready to do another one on the subject real soon. I get that a lot about the pricing...why in the hell would that cost $500, I could do that myself with $20 worth of spray paint. Cool story bro, let me know how that works out for you. But yea thanks for the support. Im glad to help shed some light into the process so maybe people can visually see it start to finish and realize a good Cerakote applicator is probably doing twice the work he deserves to be paid for the amount of work he just quoted a price on
@@360TacticalSolutions I've been working with this stuff for a little over a year and just got around to doing the BW/camo patterns. Not only does it take literally forever to do some of these, but the cost of all the gear needed isn't cheap either.
I love this video. I grew up in a garage working on minibikes, go carts, my father was a body man for 70 years. I stripped, sanded, primed, puttied, sanded, and sprayed, wet sanded, polished, cleared, AHH, you get it.
I got into building car audio, fiberglass boxes, fabricated door panels, and custom center consoles.
Now I restore just about anything.
It's a labor of love, that end result of a job extremely well done. Anybody can do half assed work.
Now when I go to a car show and I see shaved gas doors, key holes, and antennas, I look at the paint straight down the side of the car for flaws, any ripples, orange peel, fisheyes, and when I see perfection I ask who painted this car? And when the owner says, "I did" I immediately know what kind of man I'm standing next to. And I am honored to meet them.
I will definitely give this a try. I too create and cut stencils and would love to see what I can do with this Cerakote.
Sounds about like my story. If you want some really good tutorials and info take a look at the Branson Cerakote channel. Lots of good stuff over there
Also when removing the battle worn black make use you rub the same direction on sides sides. Ive had my lines go up and down and side to side on other parts. And don't over cure your white or red. The black will pop off and flake off. You don't need to go all the way black either but if you spray the black gingerly. Be careful and you still have to avoid dry spray. Dry spray will cure ruff and feel like sand paper. Just a heads up
Do all the layers of Cerakote cause buildup, resulting in binding?
No. There is a certain amount of thickness added to the parts. The base layer is pretty thin and each layer after that is even more thin. You try and avoid spraying internals and things like holes for take down pins more than you have to. An experienced cerakote applicator can do the job without there being an issue
I use a round file in my take down pin holes. If you force it you may cause chipping. And Start at the most difficult spots first to avoid and runs or over spray. When spray multiple colors don't overspray. The goal here is to not feel any ridges.you want it to look as if it was done all at once and you want the feel to match. And be smooth. But if you feel ridges I've found after a 15 minute cure at 225° I've taken my thumb nail and knocked them down but that's cutting corners. But as you spend more time in your paint booth and work with this product you'll figure out your own means and methods of the cerakote procedure
Thanks for the video, great job! Just wondering if you're not concerned about oils from your hands while handling pieces between flash curing? I'm new to cerakoting and haven't tackled anything other single colors yet. Thanks again!
I used to really worry about it. Tried wearing gloves but when im stenciling that just doesn't work. I tried using acetone to get all the oils off my hands but that dries them out really bad. At a certain point I just realized that if you wash your hands with warm water and dish soap before you get started...thats good enough. Thats going to depend on your skin type of course. If you have super oily hands then it may be an issue. Really though im not holding parts tight, its a loose grip. Im trying to not handle things more than what's needed. Play around with it and you will see. It's not as huge a deal as it seems like.
I am very impressed with the end result and had bo idea how much labor and skills it takes to do the job right.
Its crazy how much work it can be to do it right. Then again if done right it can last a very long time
You're a legend for this video thank you brother!
lol thanks. People just look at Cerakote like its as easy as throwing it down on a table and hitting it with some rattle can. Because of that they don't understand why the price is what it is. I do feel like I should do an updated video on this topic soon, maybe in the spring
I have started a company where I make custom archery bows with fairly expensive parts even at my cost wholesale. We have done research and development for over a year now, and are still developing different models.
Needless to say, people think we are Sanford and Son, and think that 300 for the baseline bow with no ups and no extra's is an outrageous price.
LOL, I tell them to go to Walmart because I guarantee that the Pro shop downtown doesn't Pawn Shop barter.
TY for explaining this process to make Quality, and Durability in a product.
Eldan Fales. Blue Dragon Archery.
Whoopty fuckin doo no one cares your job is to rip people off
Color filling looks great XD
So other than the fabulous finish when you’re done I would’ve stopped at the red white and blue however do you treat that gun like a regular gun do you or you don’t oil it do you? Can you clean it with regular gotten solvent? Or do you have to learn or use different techniques to have to take care of the pain? Is it paint 😳I guess I don’t fully understand?
BEAUTIFUL JOB❤️🇺🇸
Excellent questions. I put down the black over top like that because just doing the red white and blue makes it look more like a toy than I like. The coating it’s self is a ceramic base so it’s very durable. Definitely not a paint. It can withstand all kinds of oils and solvents, doesn’t fade from UV exposure and is very scratch resistant. Cerakote doesn’t last forever but it’s the longest lasting aftermarket product there is. I treat my cerakoted weapons just the same as any others. I don’t use special cleaners or oils. I might be a little more careful and avoid scratching them but the stuff really does last a very long time
Great overview. Appreciate it.
How do you feel about KG Gunkote?
Ive used it. Its ok but it doesnt last like Cerakote does, definitely doesnt look as good either. In a pinch it will do though
Are gloves not necessary when laying the stencils? I would think the oil from our hands would contaminate the layers that are exposed? Just getting into this and want to make sure I'm not screwing myself.
That’s a really good question. I tried it with gloves on and struggled. Stencils stock to the gloves constantly and it’s hard to get accurate stencil placement. I done use gloves when stenciling anymore and you are going to find people who will say gloves are important when stenciling just as easily as you will find people saying gloves don’t matter. I wash my hands really well with a good dish soap before doing any stencil work. That helps remove excess oils really well. Everyone is going to be different though. If you are the kind of person who has naturally oily skin then that’s something you may want to watch out for. I try not to handle the parts I’m working on excessively. I get my stencils on and i use a light touch during handling. I’ve never seen an issue where the oils from my hands created a defect in the Cerakote...but I’m cautious, I clean my hands well and if I notice a spot I’ll use acetone and wipe down before I spray
@@360TacticalSolutions awesome, I used to do ALOT of airbrushing and custom RC Car bodies so stencils are a huge part of that. I first tried it with gloves but quickly gave up and was just extra careful. Thanks for the prompt reply. Much appreciated!
I was just thinking about that distressed dark red Cerakote job I was wanting for that future Rock Island 2011 I've been wanting. Not wanting any stencils though.
Texas BEAST that will look really good on that gun. Make sure you find a good cerakote applicator in your area for the job. With the 1911 platform it’s especially important the coating be the right thickness due to the weapons tolerances
What type of vinyl is being used for this. I'm hoping to start doing my own cerakote and maybe start a business later so watching a lot of videos on the subject. Thanks
I use Avery Dennison high heat vinyl. Honestly my best advice is to sub over at the Branson Cerakote channel and watch all John’s videos. Then order any stencils you want from their site while you are getting started cerakoting. Im going on 5 years doing it now and I started out by watching the Branson Cerakote channel to learn how to do it
this is a huge eye opener !! WoW !! thank you !! very much an art that needs respected.
It’s definitely a massive undertaking. Some would say a labor of love
Do you offer cerakote services? If so, I have a vepr 12 with a hand guard that I want cerakoted in a solid color. How much would that run me? Thanks!
Shoot me an email at Mike@360tacticalsolutions.net
I never had anyone complain about prices to me personally. I have had them tell me i was cheaper than anyone else. For a one solid color of an ar15/ar10/sbr i charge $200. For 3 and four color patterns weather battle worn or not i charge $350. I have had weapons show up that were extremely poorly done and its obvious looking out them they weren't disassembled, confirmed when i disassemble. Those shops had the nerve to charge $500 for that. Its gives the true professionals like us a bad rap to the people that just classify us all in that category. Thats why i give satisfaction guarantee. I do my battle worn similar to the way you do. Some times i use a painters rag i have damped with acetone. I tell ya what makes a good battle worn color ive found is using frost white for the base, then cobolt (h series in the grey color section not the v series cobolt black) over it then doing the acetone wiping. Also with crimson red over frost white
Only ones that ever complain about price are the ones that don’t understand the value in a job being done right. I have tried the acetone wipe before and it’s not bad, I just prefer the look of the scotchbrite. It’s all preference. Oh and $200 on a single color, totally reasonable
@@360TacticalSolutions there's times I do the scotch Brite as well. Alot of times I leave it 5 or 10 minutes longer than I should have and end up having too but regardless I just take my time until it looks basically the same way. With gas getting expensive and everything else not many people were spending money in my area. Made things difficult especially running low on acetone, scotch Brite pads, mini 100 and 150micron cone filters I like using, plus running out of graphite and gloss black arguably most important most used colors as well as needing more stencils. I have switched awhile back to simple green for degreasing as mixing it 1:1 with water 5gal of mix is the same price as 1gal acetone. I been thinking about making my own stencils if I get the printer
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote best advice I can give you is to buy the Silhouette Cameo cutter. Its going to pay for its self almost instantly. I bought that one because it has a self adjusting blade and really easy to use software to design stencils. It took me a few days of messing with it before I started designing window stickers and stencils. Seriously the sale of custom made window stickers paid for the cutter in less than two months. Long term…I make all my stencils for Cerakoting, I make window stickers for people and I cut all the 360 Tactical Solutions stickers that I give out to people constantly. That cutter was the best investment I’ve made in a long time
@@360TacticalSolutions man thank you, I know people who buy other ones and are stuck trying to download files off line that end up being horrible patterns that for myself I can't use. Thank you for that it's what I will check on getting right now
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote oh ya you want the Silouhette for sure. You can make your own designs or copy items that you download online. Its real easy to use and makes a damn good set of stencils
I agree with color fill
Colorfill drives me crazy. In some situations it can look good. Most of the time it ends up looking trashy. Let’s say you have an FDE pistol frame but the slide is black. You add a black magwell to it and backfill the lettering on the slide with FDE without it looking like a two year old did it, well then it all matches and makes at least some sense. But this ridiculous fad of filling the lettering with a random color and using nail polish out model paint just needs to end lol
If you have a fully stripped weapon , cerakote done by a professional shouldn't cost you more than 300 bucks at the most (solid colors ). If somebody's trying to charge you more than that just find somebody else.
Now if you're trying to get something custom/fancy that's when the prices could be through the roof because you're paying for the skills/labor
If a weapon is fully stripped....you are just dropping off the upper, lower and hand guard...no disassembly or reassembly its real hard to see anything past $200 for a single color job. Its the intricate multi color patterns that break the bank. But of course if you want it to look the best its going to cost.
As someone just getting into this i would say it’s probably a relief to get a firearm fully stripped and each part you want coated ready for surface prep. Ive owned a modest amount of guns and love working on them but I am by no means confident in taking every kind if firearm down to component parts and have to reassemble them. Thats a huge headache Id be grateful to not have to deal with and yes the price would definitely reflect that “gratitude”. Single color applications are easy enough and arent as labor intensive. I did a 5 color camo on my shotgun and the spray, flash, cool, stencil repeat cycle is massively time consuming and every additional step adds increased chance of failure. Complexity ramps up price very quickly.
Good video. :)
Unexpected and very welcome comment from the channel that got me started working with Cerakote. Thank you. BTW thats your tattered flag stencil in the video. These days I design and cut all my own stencils other than the tattered flag. That one I elusively use the Branson Cerakote stencil. Made a couple versions myself but they didn't compare
@@360TacticalSolutions Glad to help.
The stencils are all Laura. lol
I really really want you to do my rifle that same exact way. How can I be in touch?
If only the ATF didn’t regulate Cerakote the way they do. Unfortunately because of the licensing requirements I dont do any cerakote work outside of my own personal projects and a few unserialized parts here and there. If you are looking to ave one done in this style my recommendation would be Branson Cerakote. Because they are an FFL you can ship direct to them, they will cerakote your rifle and then can legally ship it directly back to you. Branson does incredible work and has more than reasonable pricing
@@360TacticalSolutions thanks so much, I appreciate your response. That rifle looks sooo good 👍
Respect!
That makes sense why for only two colors it is costing over $500
Yes and no. Every shop has different rates. I feel like the going price for a two color AR is like $250, If I were to charge for the job that was done in this video id be asking like $600....IF I were licensed to do business like that. I will say its a labor intensive craft and if you want it done right its not going to be cheap. That doesn't mean you have to get ripped off though. If your local shop is asking $500, check Branson Cerakote website for pricing. They seem to be the most reasonable and they are great people to work with
@@360TacticalSolutions u r right. The problem is where I live not too many companies to cerekote for a decent price. A lot went out of business
@@ferrasgunreviews3426 ya there's a lot of that happening. Thats why I recommend Branson. They are a legit shop with their FFL so you can legally ship it to them, they can do the work and ship it right back to you. Defiantly worth looking into. I had the same issue locally. Got quoted like $500 to do the slide on my Girlfriends pistol in pink and said screw that ill learn to do it myself lol
@@360TacticalSolutions do they have instructions on how to ship stuff to them
@@ferrasgunreviews3426 I believe they are moving into their new shop right now. Looks like they are almost done judging by their TH-cam channel. On their site there is a contact button where someone can give you a pricing quote and go over all the specifics for shipping.
bransoncerakote.com/cerakote-services/
No one could have given a better treatment of this subject than young John Malkovich.
Hmmnnn...this is not the first Malkovich comment I've had lol, but im just going to take it as a compliment
I purchased my AR15 already cerakote painted by the factory.😎🇺🇸
T sent me here bro.
Glad to have you. T Electrik is a good dude
I never really thought it was expensive. Unless a price jump happened and I missed it. But this video just showed how it should be cheaper. Why do you think so many people do it now? I’m very familiar with the process. Half of it you can walk away while the chemicals are doing its job. You made it look like any construction worker that was good at puzzles and stickers could do the same. Which they can. Smh
Anyone can operate a spray gun and paint a car….that doesnt mean they can do a quality job that lasts or that they will know what to do when issues come up. Sure any construction worker can lay down some cerakote. They can buy or build a curing oven and an air compressor and an air dryer and sand blaster…sure they can go buy a spray gun and do their own work. Go ahead and do that, send me some pics of your work. Id love to see it. Id love to see you put the time into building the skills and then tell me how cheap cerakote should be
too much work just to come up with ths
Rattlecan > cerakote every day. Quit whining about it wearing off it just makes it look cooler
No…I totally get it, it’s cool. If you want I can probably find a couple discount codes to make it a bit more affordable for you