Great information . Another thing that may work for this is closed cell foam . I used to work on TR 6 Triumph cars that had frame rust out problems ,because they had box tube frame . Some guys in NY that made new frames for them . Clamed they injected closed cell foam into the new frame to stop the rust problem . They also said it made the car and frame quitter because it stopped the car and road vibration transfer . I am working on the restoration of a Dean Jefferies sand buggy ,great fun for an old guy . Thanks for making videos
VW put foam inside the rear window vent area at the factory and that area always rusts. Many people end up pulling that foam from the area before repairing the rust. They call it “death foam”.
@@vayabroder729 Yes I understand ,before they invented closed cell they used open cell . The open cell just trapped the water . I guess the only advantage to foam would be weight . But maybe not worth the risk .
Another alternative to the grease and zerk fitting is the use Eastwood’s internal frame coating. I have used this in my dune buggy front beam tunnel and other areas. It’s a Phenolic Resin blended with Zinc Phosphate. It comes in either black or green and is applied with tube and brass nozzle that sprays 360 degrees. I drilled a 1/8” hole in the bottom of the shock tower and a 1/4” up on top. This allowed me to insert the nozzle tube from the top all the way down the lower shock tower. Once done I started spraying the contents and as I was doing it I was pulling the tube up ensuring everything was getting coated. I did this until it started running out the 1/8” hole at the bottom of the shock tower.
Hey, let us know where and when the meet up is going to be! Life and summer get busy and booked up! We’re going on power tour in June, not sure when that is either!
I think its a good idea but your pumping into an air tight area..which is why its hard to pump..you need a small hole up top to let air and greese squeeze out
You killed it sir! That was an awesome install! Love that brake bleeder valve cap idea. Reading some of the comments from other members regarding a vent hole I was thinking why not tap another hole where you can screw in a plug or even another Zerk fitting that you can remove to vent when you need to. It can also serve as the overflow. As soon as grease comes out of that hole you know that cavity is full of grease. A video on the tin install with a very detailed segment on the flap and thermostat system on the fan housing would be a plus. Being that there have been multiple versions of the flap system (mostly the bracket that ties both sides together depending on the oil cooler type and also the the flaps themselves which can have two or three fasteners each).
I’m definitely going to put a fence hole in the shock tower, sometimes when I’m filming it is so hard to remember everything. But yes for sure I’m going to do a complete cooling tin install as soon as I paint everything hopefully within the next few weeks. I did a pretty good one a while back. It’s on my playlist here. But it’s been a while.
Maybe you should use 00 grease which is thinner and should flow in and around better? What about a set screw vent in the top of the tower you ket air out? Then screw in a short bolt to seal it? Just an outsider’s point of view!
I have that “00” on hand, that’s what I use on my steering boxes. I put in the comments here and on the video caption about a vent hole. Since I forgot while filming
Yes, that is, I actually have two of them. I set one on the workbench so I can clean it up real nice before I list it on the marketplace. I’ll check my email, this evening. The inbox is overflowed. So I’ll try to track your email down.
Hi! It’s not Parkinson’s. I was tested for it. It’s a tremor stress problem with my muscles when working. I need to work out, which I don’t. And other various things.
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Playoffs Day 3 // DRX vs GEN | PRX vs TLN](/img/n.gif)
Don't FORGET to add a drain hole/relief hole to the shock tower at the bottom. Thats why I was having a hard time pumping the grease in!
Yes, please do a video on cooling tin refurb and install. It is coming up on my list 🙂
Excellent! Consider it done!
Thanks for the DIY Slade see ya on the next one.😁
39 degrees? Thanks for battling the cold to put out the vids.
It’s that time of the year 🥶 😢
Not thread locker, tamper proof torque stripe paint. Surprised you didn't also drill for a vent plug at the top, would also show when it's full.
Yes!!! that’s what I am going to actually do tomorrow. I wasn’t even thinking when I came to the vent hole.
very good tips and would like to see some of the actual bodywork being done really appreciate you showing all this thanks
Thank you!
That was a great tip. !! That quick coupler for the grease gun is a must !
Some of the older beams have drain holes, on the bottom of the towers. Just a heads up.
Thank you, sir! I’m gonna pop another hole in the tower.
Please do the cooling tin video. Want to do on mine so it would be great. Thanks! Tie rod and ball joint zerk install would be good as well.
Will do for sure!! I did one on the tie rods a little while back. You can check the playlist, but I’m going to do a new one.
Great information . Another thing that may work for this is closed cell foam . I used to work on TR 6 Triumph cars that had frame rust out problems ,because they had box tube frame . Some guys in NY that made new frames for them . Clamed they injected closed cell foam into the new frame to stop the rust problem . They also said it made the car and frame quitter because it stopped the car and road vibration transfer . I am working on the restoration of a Dean Jefferies sand buggy ,great fun for an old guy . Thanks for making videos
VW put foam inside the rear window vent area at the factory and that area always rusts. Many people end up pulling that foam from the area before repairing the rust. They call it “death foam”.
@@vayabroder729 Yes I understand ,before they invented closed cell they used open cell . The open cell just trapped the water . I guess the only advantage to foam would be weight . But maybe not worth the risk .
@@dickvankoughnett2331
Who sells closed cell foam?
Nice tip/vid, Slade!
Thanks for the video.
Great video as always!!!!
VERY informative. I'm adding this to my how-to library. I've got a ton of your videos in there!
nice job.
Another alternative to the grease and zerk fitting is the use Eastwood’s internal frame coating. I have used this in my dune buggy front beam tunnel and other areas. It’s a Phenolic Resin blended with Zinc Phosphate.
It comes in either black or green and is applied with tube and brass nozzle that sprays 360 degrees.
I drilled a 1/8” hole in the bottom of the shock tower and a 1/4” up on top. This allowed me to insert the nozzle tube from the top all the way down the lower shock tower. Once done I started spraying the contents and as I was doing it I was pulling the tube up ensuring everything was getting coated. I did this until it started running out the 1/8” hole at the bottom of the shock tower.
LIVE CHAT 🎉🎉
Might do that Sunday!!
Hey, let us know where and when the meet up is going to be! Life and summer get busy and booked up! We’re going on power tour in June, not sure when that is either!
I think its a good idea but your pumping into an air tight area..which is why its hard to pump..you need a small hole up top to let air and greese squeeze out
Absolutely! I’m going to pop a hole towards the top of it.
1411 miles to Pitt. Let us know soon. That's a serious road trip in a bug.
That’s definitely a long road trip and a beetle!
Good tip,wonder how it holds up using something like Eastwood internal frame coating.
Honestly, I’m not sure. I like the idea that the grease will spread and fill the areas. But I have not used Eastwood so I really don’t know.
You killed it sir! That was an awesome install! Love that brake bleeder valve cap idea. Reading some of the comments from other members regarding a vent hole I was thinking why not tap another hole where you can screw in a plug or even another Zerk fitting that you can remove to vent when you need to. It can also serve as the overflow. As soon as grease comes out of that hole you know that cavity is full of grease.
A video on the tin install with a very detailed segment on the flap and thermostat system on the fan housing would be a plus. Being that there have been multiple versions of the flap system (mostly the bracket that ties both sides together depending on the oil cooler type and also the the flaps themselves which can have two or three fasteners each).
I’m definitely going to put a fence hole in the shock tower, sometimes when I’m filming it is so hard to remember everything. But yes for sure I’m going to do a complete cooling tin install as soon as I paint everything hopefully within the next few weeks.
I did a pretty good one a while back. It’s on my playlist here. But it’s been a while.
I have email you for a sticker but not heard anything your video the other week you told me to email you mate another top video
Those won’t be mailed out until this coming week. I’m giving everybody a chance to email me so I only have to run to the post office one time.
@SladesVWBeetle ok my friend I got you
Thanks!
Thank you very much I really appreciate that! Make sure to drill a relief hole in the bottom, I put it in the comments here at the top.
One on the tie rods and control arms would be great as well
Great video what ever happened to the painting a car with rustoleum gloss almond
It’s still going to have the gloss, almond, and also colonial red. You’ve may have missed the one video where I talked about doing a two-tone job.
Maybe you should use 00 grease which is thinner and should flow in and around better? What about a set screw vent in the top of the tower you ket air out? Then screw in a short bolt to seal it? Just an outsider’s point of view!
I have that “00” on hand, that’s what I use on my steering boxes. I put in the comments here and on the video caption about a vent hole. Since I forgot while filming
I spy a late Ghia air cleaner.... Did you ever get my pic I sent it to your email
Nice beam and great idea on the grease fittings🇩🇪👍
Yes, that is, I actually have two of them. I set one on the workbench so I can clean it up real nice before I list it on the marketplace. I’ll check my email, this evening. The inbox is overflowed. So I’ll try to track your email down.
I just checked my email real quick, I’m not seeing an email from you with photos…
@@SladesVWBeetle I will resend maybe tommorow
I hope I have the right email
@@eduardorodriguez3262 it’s: sladesbeetle@yahoo.com
I would put the zerk at the bottom and a vent up top! Push the grease up to push air out?
I actually tried to ad a caption to the video around 19:00 saying to drill a vent hole.
I never doubted you buddy!
@@SladesVWBeetle
I'm not sure why you didn't put insulation in the walls when you put the wood on the inside
I truly wished I would have the extra money to do that. Unfortunately it’s not in the cards for me right now.
@@SladesVWBeetlethen do 1 or 2 batt's of fiberglass as you can.
Yes--how do you tell when it's full, and can it even get full with no way to vent air displacement?
And that’s what I have to do pop another hole in it to vent, and of course, tell when it’s filled up.
my friend try nicotine patches to help with your parkinsons, might have to insist on them
Hi! It’s not Parkinson’s. I was tested for it. It’s a tremor stress problem with my muscles when working. I need to work out, which I don’t. And other various things.