Finally a fantastic gun channel !! Can’t believe with all my searching this one evaded me?? Enjoying the friends and the old feeling you used to get from gun shows, minus the smell of pipe tobacco. Lol
I enjoyed the video, but still maintain that a dab of Eastwood's Tinning Butter would have saved you some sweat and worry! Now I'm anxiously awaiting your rust blue procedure on the twist steel barrels!!
Sorry for the delay answering. We used a rosin core "electrical" solder same as I use wiring my guitars. I needed something that had a great low temp flow rate because this was an old double damascus shotgun. We needed to keep the heat low so that we didnt risk melting everything that held the whole barrel set together.
@ what is your solder made of. …….Soft solder like 96%tin, 4% silver has a higher melt point, narrow temp range, harder to work with, but much stronger than lead based solders. I don’t have a lot of soldering experience but would like to know what u like and what works for you. Also, what kind of flux do you use with your particular solder? Thank you for your video and your information!
@@Bowdock Well...frankly most of my soldering experience is wiring my guitars. I don't solder often on firearms. This was a small part being soldered to this shotgun, and my bigger concern was heat damage to the damascus barrels and the center rib that held them together (too much heat could have melted what kept them connected). I used the same materials that I use wiring up my guitars. Is it right? It worked. The solder was a 60/40 Rosin-Core and the paste was acid flux Kester SP-30. Rick, my friend who helped in this video, has much more experience soldering double shotguns which is why I asked for his help.
Yep...something happened with TH-cam. I pulled it down for a bit and let them catch up. Its back up in full HD. You can go back and rewatch if you want. I am way from the shop so wont be able to look until later.
@@robertrandin9568 No disrespect taken. Didn't understand the question. You could try putting it in a vice if the part was insulated from the steel jaws with some non-heat conductive material like wood. What we were trying very hard not to do was not to overheat the damascus wires causing them to sperate or unwind. The heat has to be hot enough to melt the solder and to cause the "wicking" action of the solder between the parts, but not too hot for the damascus barrel or to melt the rib that holds the two barrel together. A part of the story that I never told was that the repair did not hold up and the customer brought the gun back a few weeks after I finished the restoration. I had to go back and do it again but this time I used a different lower temp solder to get it to stick better. Hope that helps?
Nice for the welding trick ! I have do the same thing on a barrel of B.S.A shotgun i used silver with flux included for electronic welding ! this is old video in french : th-cam.com/video/Di4mCwMeyVE/w-d-xo.html
How did I miss this? Thank you Bill and Ricky Very informative always shied away from soldering due to my failure rate :)
You noticed I let Rick do this 😀
I think a video of you two talking gun design would be great. That and a few of Rick’s colorful stories would make for some great entertainment!
Yup...he would be entertaining. I think I might even need to keep a close handle on him 😀
The experience between the two of you is humbling!
Thank you yannick! And we still learn everyday.
Been *WAITING* for this part, Bill!!
Great to see more progress on this shotgun. The experience in the room made that seem very easy. I would have made a pigs ear of it, no doubt!
Well...I probably could have done this myself. But it was good to get a friend in who has done this before.
Finally a fantastic gun channel !! Can’t believe with all my searching this one evaded me?? Enjoying the friends and the old feeling you used to get from gun shows, minus the smell of pipe tobacco. Lol
Well...thank you again Daniel. This has been a tough journey getting discovered by TH-cam. But I will stick with it. Love sharing what I have learned.
I enjoyed the video, but still maintain that a dab of Eastwood's Tinning Butter would have saved you some sweat and worry!
Now I'm anxiously awaiting your rust blue procedure on the twist steel barrels!!
Thank you Karl. I would of had to order it and I dont plan to do a lot of this. I had this stuff in stock for my guitar builds.
Nice to see the process
Yup...its coming. Want to get this project behind me. Been on it for a long time and want to start working on something new
Great video, enjoyed it greatly
Thank you Joe.
I was waiting to see this too...was this a silver solder process? Nice to meet Rick on the video as well.
Thanks John. You can see the label for the solder at time stamp 3:44
Is there a particular type of wire for the weld that you have to use or just the regular plumbers wire
Sorry for the delay answering. We used a rosin core "electrical" solder same as I use wiring my guitars. I needed something that had a great low temp flow rate because this was an old double damascus shotgun. We needed to keep the heat low so that we didnt risk melting everything that held the whole barrel set together.
@SixRoundsStudio thank for your reply. I'm going to try it on an old henry double barrel i have from ww1.
👍🏻
Thank You!
What is your solder chemistry? Flux?
I would like to answer your question, but Im not entirely sure I understand.
@ what is your solder made of. …….Soft solder like 96%tin, 4% silver has a higher melt point, narrow temp range, harder to work with, but much stronger than lead based solders. I don’t have a lot of soldering experience but would like to know what u like and what works for you. Also, what kind of flux do you use with your particular solder? Thank you for your video and your information!
@@Bowdock Well...frankly most of my soldering experience is wiring my guitars. I don't solder often on firearms. This was a small part being soldered to this shotgun, and my bigger concern was heat damage to the damascus barrels and the center rib that held them together (too much heat could have melted what kept them connected). I used the same materials that I use wiring up my guitars. Is it right? It worked. The solder was a 60/40 Rosin-Core and the paste was acid flux Kester SP-30. Rick, my friend who helped in this video, has much more experience soldering double shotguns which is why I asked for his help.
@ Thank you for answering!
what solder composition is that? video is only in 360p so i couldnt read it
Yep...something happened with TH-cam. I pulled it down for a bit and let them catch up. Its back up in full HD. You can go back and rewatch if you want. I am way from the shop so wont be able to look until later.
@@SixRoundsStudio Just my patience. I re-watched it and it's 60/40 thanks. Only now I can see the damascus pattern haha.
@@rgbgamingfridgethanks Allahs
Why didn't you put it on a visa
Huhh??
@SixRoundsStudio the reason I ask was does it have to be on top of wood for any reason. No disrespect just wanted to know if it can be done on a vice
@@robertrandin9568 No disrespect taken. Didn't understand the question. You could try putting it in a vice if the part was insulated from the steel jaws with some non-heat conductive material like wood. What we were trying very hard not to do was not to overheat the damascus wires causing them to sperate or unwind. The heat has to be hot enough to melt the solder and to cause the "wicking" action of the solder between the parts, but not too hot for the damascus barrel or to melt the rib that holds the two barrel together.
A part of the story that I never told was that the repair did not hold up and the customer brought the gun back a few weeks after I finished the restoration. I had to go back and do it again but this time I used a different lower temp solder to get it to stick better. Hope that helps?
Nice for the welding trick ! I have do the same thing on a barrel of B.S.A shotgun i used silver with flux included for electronic welding ! this is old video in french : th-cam.com/video/Di4mCwMeyVE/w-d-xo.html
Yup...looks familiar