Nice. If you're screwing through the front face/carpet, i put a small slit in the carpet, and the screw head usually pulls through it, and you can then glue the carpet back over it.
Good work. Rather than remove the stopper on one slide , keep them both locking but attach a piece of flat aluminium between both orange tabs and it can be pushed down and engaged with one hand.
Instead of removing the latch assembly on one side, I just connected the 2 latch "orange lugs" so they operated at the same time with one movement by hand, much easier.
Nice Job, Chippy here, with the benchtops did you seal both top and bottom ? if not, whack a coat on the bottoms to equalize moisture absorption, if you only did the top the bottom will absorb more moisture and warp the panels and the underneaths will also be prone to mold,.when rolling panels like these, go for the 100mm wide 4mm nap microfibre rollers, these give a flawless finish, the draw construction was a different way to build them, but if it works that's all that matters 👍👍
Hey guys! Stoked with all the positive feedback regarding this little diy kitchen. 😁 Here are the design files for those asking (keep in mind they're definitely not professional haha but I hope they help if you're planning your own build!) bit.ly/3JC7W6G
Nice job. To eliminate air bubbles in the roller it needs to be fully saturated with your finish/ paint and then unload most of it back in tray before attempting to use. Not sure about that finish over pre oiled material. Raw would be better if going for a full sealer/finishing coat or stay with a food grade butcher board oil and just reoil as needed.
I did something similar with my rails so only 1 needs to be pressed to open it but there is one tab close to the end of the rail you can trim so you don't have to press the lever down to open but it retains the lever so when pulled out they both lock to hold the drawer out. You have to press both levers to close but only one to open. Much safer and very easy to open.
now that you have a drop saw, you should get a drop saw stand for it, it gives you supports on either side and a stop to let you cut multiple of the same length very fast instead of having to measure and mark every time!
It does look great, but hopefully it never has to come out and never works loose with those ridges flattening out.. The locktight bolt to rivnut bond will be stronger than the rivnut to canopy bond, and the rivnuts will spin before the bolts get tighter, of looser for that matter.
Rippa design, end product looks awesome!! 👌 The bench tops contrast so well with the black and carpet! Even the orange lock tabs goes well with the Explore Bound logo 😊
Thanks mate! Just had a look and can see their 813mm slides are about 20% cheaper than Dunn & Watson so will definitely keep that in mind for next time 👍
Well done and also thank you for the detailed presentation. I downloaded all 4 previous( 1 year ago clips) to try and figure out what you did. And that I just did yesterday! And here we are where you detail them in one episode today. Many thanks and all success!!
Watched this this morning and went out this arvo to start buying materials. That connect it tubing is a game changer. Going to try copy yours sort of. If you made an in-depth guide of cut lengths etc I would of paid for that I'm lazy though
5:28 Agreed! I picked one of those up a few months ago and WOW! So much easier that the giant goofy scissor style one I had. 33:18 Brother! That came out AMAZING! Beautiful work! This is truly inspiring.
All you do is instead of taking the lock mechanism out of your draw runner is make a small hoop so they both connect up together so it’s a push down handle
Removing one draw locking mechanism will now wear the other real fast and makes the draw rattle around, and yes I've been down this path and gone back to 2 locks with a crossbar, now the draw won't fail
Good job mate. A tip for the drawers is use alloy angle instead of the timber to lock it together. Saves room in the drawer. Just a short screw thu the the 7mm ply and buzz the pointy bit off the screw. You dont see it anyway cause its inside. Makes them very solid ive found with my diy stuff in my rig. This is a great design im stealing it!!
Cheers mate! I've used spray adhesive on previous projects and always found that it comes off over time leaving the carpet 'saggy'. That was actually the main reason I tried the turf glue for this project. 🙂
You could of righted some channel across the open tabs and used it for a tea towel rail. Now you are relying one one lock to fail and have a heavy draw fall out on you.
seen that lots of times, one hand operation of both basically surprised wouldn't go that way.. (the tea towel rail part is a bonus part of it.. and you can always take it off..)
That was my original plan actually, but would be a messy solution for this build unfortunately. Because both sets of runners are inline with each other, the ‘bar’ for the outermost slide would prevent the lower bench from sliding out. This could be overcome by adding extension pieces to raise this outer bar up and out of the way, but just didn’t want it to look messy and pretty happy with how it’s turned out. 🙂
Used the same aluminium square for my drawers and kitchen. If you're worried about strength, there are corner brackets that can be riveted on to add some strength. On those benchtops; food grade wax is the way to go. Might have to reapply every now and again.....
Yeah, definitely look at a food grade wax or chopping board oil if you're looking at doing food prep on it, it'll need to be reapplied from time to time but will help keep everything safe and sanitary.
Awesome job! Tip for your drawer builds in the future, look into pocket holes or dominos. Might need a slightly thicker plywood, but will eliminate the need for a side wooden frame 👍🏼
Great work. Good design to maximise the available space. I too am a fan of rivnuts. Though the tool you have seems so much easier to use by attaching it to a drill. Mine is manually driven, but it works nonetheless.
You only need to remove the locking tab in the back of the runner , this means you will retain the orange Tab and the lock out feature on full extension and half extension on both sides.
You must have share's with Bunning's and ryobi, lol How bout showing us how the rivenut works, Can't wait for continuation on yahh build. Well done 👏👏 Thanks for sharing 👍😎
Nice work and great ideas on fit out. I’ve used the alum with plastic friction fit joiners on few Ute back seat deletes, and have found along with lock tight on the Riv nuts I had to add a rivet to the joiners which stops them pulling apart.
Thank you so much for sharing how you built the canopy kitchen. I believe it is far superior to any kitchen set I could find in stores. Would you mind sharing all the links where you purchased your tools, drill bit, square tubes, sliders, and connections?
Looks good, just a thought though. If you swapped the pull out kitchen and the food pantry it would allow for the pantry to act as a wind break for your prep area aswell as allowing the pantry to be accessed with the draws out on the kitchen slide. Just a thought probably to late to change anything now
Hey mate! Good suggestion and that’s how I had the previous canopy setup and it did work really well. The reasoning behind this layout is that my 12V outlets are going to be on the very RHS and the pantry would block access to this area. 🙂
Great job, like most of us a few mistakes, I'm certainly reminded by my wife measure thrice ..... not only informative, but entertaining too... enjoy your hard work
For a single handed operation of locking and unlocking your drawers, wouldn't it have been easier to attach a bar that ran across the front of your drawer that connects to both sides of your locking knobs of your draw sliders have been an easier solution (than having to hack your expensive draw slides)? I believe Dunn and Watson also sell this part and it's a bolt on item.
That was my original plan actually, however that solution gets a bit messy when dealing with a 2-stage slide out system like this because the outer bar would be in the way of the inner slide out bar if that makes sense. You could solve this by adding extension pieces to the outermost slide-out module but at that point I think it would have just looked messy, and this solution is working great so far 👍
‘Not a very fun job to take a grinder to my brand new drawer slides” less fun if the LPG cylinder goes up that you re grinding over. Gave me flashbacks of my neighbours garage up in flames lol. Nice video and setup though 👍
Loving the new build! I'm planning on upgrading the second battery system that came in my car as its very bare bones. Would love to see an indepth video on your setup. I'm just slightly confused about why you need fuses and when to have fuses for camp lights etc. Keep up the awesome work!!
Great work Daniel, can definitely see this isn't your first rodeo and got the experience of the other kitchens behind you haha. setting up for this to be the last one for a while at least. Gives me plenty to think about for my own Dmax now 🤔😅
Great design/ DIY build as always, would have kept the locking mechanisms in though, at least for main and bench slides. Single lockout will jiggle, which will be more of a nuisance over time than two handed opening. A piece of flat bar over bolted into orange tabs would have been the best solution, also seen it done with a narrow tube which looked super neat. If you're happy with it though that's all that matters...
Looks great. Any idea on the weight? I used the ally tubing and connectors 15yrs ago on a dog crates in a ute tub. Worked mint as yours has too. Put connectors in the oven with some heat and you can get custom angles on them 😊
My Dmax has a GVM upgrade to 3450kg, but even so I'm expecting the finished build to be around the 3 ton mark which is below the factory GVM anyway - this kitchen build is only around 25-30kg 🙂
Never ever work when you are tired and should be on the sofa or in sheets .. 😅 but nice job and thanks for the idea of the alu Frame. Just working on a similar project and made my thoughts over the kitchensystem. Thx 🙏 Great Vid btw -
Along with “measure twice, cut once” they shoulder also say “Don’t try to finish late at night, leave it for the morning”. Great job.
Didn’t know those tube connectors existed! Thanks for sharing! That’s an awesome setup!
Nice. If you're screwing through the front face/carpet, i put a small slit in the carpet, and the screw head usually pulls through it, and you can then glue the carpet back over it.
Good work. Rather than remove the stopper on one slide , keep them both locking but attach a piece of flat aluminium between both orange tabs and it can be pushed down and engaged with one hand.
Instead of removing the latch assembly on one side, I just connected the 2 latch "orange lugs" so they operated at the same time with one movement by hand, much easier.
Nice Job, Chippy here, with the benchtops did you seal both top and bottom ? if not, whack a coat on the bottoms to equalize moisture absorption, if you only did the top the bottom will absorb more moisture and warp the panels and the underneaths will also be prone to mold,.when rolling panels like these, go for the 100mm wide 4mm nap microfibre rollers, these give a flawless finish, the draw construction was a different way to build them, but if it works that's all that matters 👍👍
Hey guys! Stoked with all the positive feedback regarding this little diy kitchen. 😁 Here are the design files for those asking (keep in mind they're definitely not professional haha but I hope they help if you're planning your own build!) bit.ly/3JC7W6G
Thank you, really help to start 😊
thanks a lot bro.. you really motivated me to try that out!
great build - great video - great attitude
Nice job. To eliminate air bubbles in the roller it needs to be fully saturated with your finish/ paint and then unload most of it back in tray before attempting to use. Not sure about that finish over pre oiled material. Raw would be better if going for a full sealer/finishing coat or stay with a food grade butcher board oil and just reoil as needed.
I did something similar with my rails so only 1 needs to be pressed to open it but there is one tab close to the end of the rail you can trim so you don't have to press the lever down to open but it retains the lever so when pulled out they both lock to hold the drawer out. You have to press both levers to close but only one to open. Much safer and very easy to open.
Check out using a stop block on your drop saw, could save you some time on the measuring your next job!
now that you have a drop saw, you should get a drop saw stand for it, it gives you supports on either side and a stop to let you cut multiple of the same length very fast instead of having to measure and mark every time!
That would be ideal! Unfortunately I'm a bit space limited at the moment, but maybe one day!
Love ya work!
Apart from not painting the bare alloy and runners black to match the rest, they look fantastic!
It does look great, but hopefully it never has to come out and never works loose with those ridges flattening out..
The locktight bolt to rivnut bond will be stronger than the rivnut to canopy bond, and the rivnuts will spin before the bolts get tighter, of looser for that matter.
Love the attention to detail and depth of thought put into the design and materials
Rippa design, end product looks awesome!! 👌
The bench tops contrast so well with the black and carpet! Even the orange lock tabs goes well with the Explore Bound logo 😊
Thanks mate appreciate that! Haha yeah they sure do! 🙂
Great build Daniel looks very professional and practical. Look forward to the next video
Turned out excellent. You're becoming a canopy kitchen pro
Thanks mate appreciate that!
A bit late now but Duraslide in Perth have the drawer slides much cheaper that Dunn and Watson.
Thanks mate! Just had a look and can see their 813mm slides are about 20% cheaper than Dunn & Watson so will definitely keep that in mind for next time 👍
Finally some good news for Perth
Well done and also thank you for the detailed presentation. I downloaded all 4 previous( 1 year ago clips) to try and figure out what you did. And that I just did yesterday! And here we are where you detail them in one episode today. Many thanks and all success!!
Well done on this build. Very inspiring to say the least.
Great music. Thanks for sharing you style and techniques in the build. Great ideas to make slides.
Going to go back to at start of build to catch up.
Watched this this morning and went out this arvo to start buying materials. That connect it tubing is a game changer. Going to try copy yours sort of. If you made an in-depth guide of cut lengths etc I would of paid for that I'm lazy though
5:28 Agreed! I picked one of those up a few months ago and WOW! So much easier that the giant goofy scissor style one I had.
33:18 Brother! That came out AMAZING! Beautiful work! This is truly inspiring.
Thanks mate, really appreciate that! 🙂
All you do is instead of taking the lock mechanism out of your draw runner is make a small hoop so they both connect up together so it’s a push down handle
Removing one draw locking mechanism will now wear the other real fast and makes the draw rattle around, and yes I've been down this path and gone back to 2 locks with a crossbar, now the draw won't fail
Just Perfect and made simple !!!!!
Looks great. Always takes longer than expected but well worth it.
Thanks 🙂
Good job mate. A tip for the drawers is use alloy angle instead of the timber to lock it together. Saves room in the drawer. Just a short screw thu the the 7mm ply and buzz the pointy bit off the screw. You dont see it anyway cause its inside. Makes them very solid ive found with my diy stuff in my rig. This is a great design im stealing it!!
Good suggestion mate! I'm just about to build larger storage drawers for the RHS of the canopy so will implement your idea 🙂
Great work. Super practical setup. Spray contact adhesive for the carpet is easier.
Cheers mate! I've used spray adhesive on previous projects and always found that it comes off over time leaving the carpet 'saggy'. That was actually the main reason I tried the turf glue for this project. 🙂
I like the LCS 4X4 idea better and neater for the drawers 👍
Doesn’t work on a 2-stage slide with inline runners 👍
You could of righted some channel across the open tabs and used it for a tea towel rail. Now you are relying one one lock to fail and have a heavy draw fall out on you.
Like a push down rail system like shopping center emergency exits.
seen that lots of times, one hand operation of both basically surprised wouldn't go that way.. (the tea towel rail part is a bonus part of it.. and you can always take it off..)
That was my original plan actually, but would be a messy solution for this build unfortunately. Because both sets of runners are inline with each other, the ‘bar’ for the outermost slide would prevent the lower bench from sliding out. This could be overcome by adding extension pieces to raise this outer bar up and out of the way, but just didn’t want it to look messy and pretty happy with how it’s turned out. 🙂
@@explorebound Solid work building this. Turned out killer.
@CAPTAINCOOK406 Thanks mate! 😁
Morning of Day 4 - looked knackered. Well done for not referring to the lowest bench as "Bianca's bench".
Hahaha we were just chatting earlier and saying that we should have got her to come on camera to do a 'low-bench review' at the end of the ep. 😂
Used the same aluminium square for my drawers and kitchen. If you're worried about strength, there are corner brackets that can be riveted on to add some strength.
On those benchtops; food grade wax is the way to go. Might have to reapply every now and again.....
Yeah, definitely look at a food grade wax or chopping board oil if you're looking at doing food prep on it, it'll need to be reapplied from time to time but will help keep everything safe and sanitary.
Awesome job! Tip for your drawer builds in the future, look into pocket holes or dominos. Might need a slightly thicker plywood, but will eliminate the need for a side wooden frame 👍🏼
Great work. Good design to maximise the available space. I too am a fan of rivnuts. Though the tool you have seems so much easier to use by attaching it to a drill. Mine is manually driven, but it works nonetheless.
great DIY job... Look at clamping a straight edge for your circular saw to follow when doing your rip cuts
Love the build! Would love to see the plans you mentioned! Looking forward to more vids and awesome ideas!! 🔥🔥💯
You only need to remove the locking tab in the back of the runner , this means you will retain the orange Tab and the lock out feature on full extension and half extension on both sides.
Good to know for future - thanks!
Well done mate. Great video and great result! Good to watch.
I'm about to re do the kitchen side in mine good thing I saw this first seems like a more solid option than just all timber
You must have share's with Bunning's and ryobi, lol
How bout showing us how the rivenut works,
Can't wait for continuation on yahh build.
Well done 👏👏
Thanks for sharing 👍😎
Great build, I enjoyed every minute of this video.
Thanks mate 🙂
Nice job mate, big job. Easy to get it good enough and move on.
Wow really neat setup thanks. I would be glad to get hold of those diagrams somehow too.
Add another to that list
Thanks guys! Here's the rough designs: bit.ly/3JC7W6G
Nice work and great ideas on fit out. I’ve used the alum with plastic friction fit joiners on few Ute back seat deletes, and have found along with lock tight on the Riv nuts I had to add a rivet to the joiners which stops them pulling apart.
Thank you so much for sharing how you built the canopy kitchen. I believe it is far superior to any kitchen set I could find in stores. Would you mind sharing all the links where you purchased your tools, drill bit, square tubes, sliders, and connections?
Really clever, well done
Great build Squire
Looks good, just a thought though. If you swapped the pull out kitchen and the food pantry it would allow for the pantry to act as a wind break for your prep area aswell as allowing the pantry to be accessed with the draws out on the kitchen slide. Just a thought probably to late to change anything now
Hey mate! Good suggestion and that’s how I had the previous canopy setup and it did work really well. The reasoning behind this layout is that my 12V outlets are going to be on the very RHS and the pantry would block access to this area. 🙂
Great job, like most of us a few mistakes, I'm certainly reminded by my wife measure thrice ..... not only informative, but entertaining too... enjoy your hard work
For a single handed operation of locking and unlocking your drawers, wouldn't it have been easier to attach a bar that ran across the front of your drawer that connects to both sides of your locking knobs of your draw sliders have been an easier solution (than having to hack your expensive draw slides)? I believe Dunn and Watson also sell this part and it's a bolt on item.
That was my original plan actually, however that solution gets a bit messy when dealing with a 2-stage slide out system like this because the outer bar would be in the way of the inner slide out bar if that makes sense. You could solve this by adding extension pieces to the outermost slide-out module but at that point I think it would have just looked messy, and this solution is working great so far 👍
I take my hat of to you mate, that would honestly be prob the best draw system I've ever seen. Great job 👌
Thanks mate, really appreciate that! 🙂
Wow! So impressive!
Killing the game mate!
Brilliant work. Great cabinetry skills.
Well done mate. Looks great, thanks for sharing.
great build dude, well executed
Great job mate 👍
Really killer job there mate. Nice work
Epic mate!!! Great job!
Mate that looks awesome! I love it 🍻
Love your work mate. Definitely given me some inspiration for my canopy.
Looks amazing mate, very professional.
Thanks mate 🙂
Very impressive my friend.
‘Not a very fun job to take a grinder to my brand new drawer slides” less fun if the LPG cylinder goes up that you re grinding over. Gave me flashbacks of my neighbours garage up in flames lol. Nice video and setup though 👍
Hey mate, love this. Any chance you have a rough schematic of the build? Would love to replicate it.
Matttttte this look fantastic!
mate! well done on the build and designed! very practical and look amazing!
Thanks mate!!
Awesome mate, well done
Well done 👍
Brilliant work!
Looking familiar 👍 Nice work mate, great ideas executed with great attention to detail.
Thanks mate!! Was great testing it out for the first time on the track 😁
Love your work daniel 👌🏼
Brilliant video mate, looks so good!
Loving the new build! I'm planning on upgrading the second battery system that came in my car as its very bare bones. Would love to see an indepth video on your setup. I'm just slightly confused about why you need fuses and when to have fuses for camp lights etc. Keep up the awesome work!!
Thanks mate!! The 12V setup is next up so there will be a full video coming soon on that. 🙂
@@exploreboundcan't wait!
这种拉出式厨房设计是纯粹的天才！它是如此方便和实用。我喜欢！
Great work mate...
Came up treat awesome work
woah man that's a greatly presented video! love the setup!
Thanks!! 🙂
Great work Daniel, can definitely see this isn't your first rodeo and got the experience of the other kitchens behind you haha. setting up for this to be the last one for a while at least. Gives me plenty to think about for my own Dmax now 🤔😅
Love the build videos 🎉
Very cool, well done 👏
great work
Great design/ DIY build as always, would have kept the locking mechanisms in though, at least for main and bench slides. Single lockout will jiggle, which will be more of a nuisance over time than two handed opening. A piece of flat bar over bolted into orange tabs would have been the best solution, also seen it done with a narrow tube which looked super neat. If you're happy with it though that's all that matters...
Quality Build. Where did you get the plastic joiner pieces from for the SHS
It would be great if you could compare the total car weight now compared to your previous canopy/tray setup
Great work again Daniel!
Great work
Hi guys can you tell us what straight and corner quantities of the connecter joiners that are required ?
If you were wanting to place a fridge on top of your drawer design do you think it would take the weight off the slide plus fridge ?
Looks great. Any idea on the weight? I used the ally tubing and connectors 15yrs ago on a dog crates in a ute tub. Worked mint as yours has too. Put connectors in the oven with some heat and you can get custom angles on them 😊
Good tip with heating up the connectors!! I estimate the weight of this build to be between 25-30kg 🙂
That’s sick I’m inspired to make one for my kitchen set up
where did you buy the aluminium joining pieces from? bunning have them but would be expensive if i buy then individually.
nice job! can you post a link to the square tubing corner brackets please.
Where do you buy the connecting
jointers can you specify that please?
If you just put a bit of aluminium across both orange tabs it would make it a one handed opening then it will still lock in
Awesome & very creative, but surely on the way for a GVM bow out?
My Dmax has a GVM upgrade to 3450kg, but even so I'm expecting the finished build to be around the 3 ton mark which is below the factory GVM anyway - this kitchen build is only around 25-30kg 🙂
Hey! Why did you insulate the canopy if you're not sleeping in it?
Never ever work when you are tired and should be on the sofa or in sheets .. 😅 but nice job and thanks for the idea of the alu Frame. Just working on a similar project and made my thoughts over the kitchensystem. Thx 🙏 Great Vid btw -
Thanks mate!