Thanks, I've done it a few times before, but it's nice to see how others tackle this. A few little tips here and there helped me out. I'm hoping this time it will go faster. Good job.
Doing this this weekend. Failed inspection due to wheel bearing assembly on driverside and outer tierod ends. (Honestly tho never felt it driving wise.) Thanks for the vid! Between yours for the wheel bearing assembly and another youtuber for the tierod ends, I can easily do this job. It's not complicated at all! Thank you again!
@Charles And Cars hi thanks for this video, but I was wondering if there's a definite way to tell if it's the hub & not the tie rod? I'm not sure if when I do the 3 & 9 position, if I'm using to much force because the inner tie rod moves back & forth along with the opposite side (drive side move passenger side) is that normal? I believe it could also just be the hub, but would like to know before I spend money on the parts. Thank you in advance
There's a couple of checks you can do. Many times driving the car you can hear the bearing in the hub "howl" as it starts to go bad. When I test tie rod ends I leave the opposite tire on the ground when testing. I find it's easier to tell if the tie rod end is bad. You can spin the wheel while holding onto the coil spring and many times you can feel the vibration in the coil spring from the bad bearing. Just compare one side to the other. Many times that will make it obvious. Also watch the tie rod end when testing. Sometimes you can see the ball and socket moving independenly from each other when the tie rod is bad.
Process is almost the same. Actually a little easier because you don't have to deal with a CV axle. Have to reach through the hub access hole to get to the hub bolts, but basically the same.
@@CharlesAndCars got it, thanks. On my Chevy was 36 mm axle nut and the caliper and bearing bolts 13 mm socket for the bolts. All done, all good thank you!
Great job that is exactly what I needed. I Subed. My kinda video. Good editing too.Thanks. Now I can do the job with out any guessing.I need to get the big socket though. Keep up the good work.
I love telling ppl how to work on it and have them turn the wrench 🔧 for me…. 😂 hard to find anyone now that will do this for me, both stepdaughters left the nest finally 😂😢😕 younger one left to the air force, based in Texas, older one left to Nebraska now…. 😢 who’s gonna turn wrenches for me now….
I used a sledge hammer and pipe wrench to break the wheel bearing free. Part of the old bearing broke off in the knuckle and could not be moved. I had to put the new bearing in despite this. But i think it would have been wiser to buy a new steering knuckle
Thanks for the vid! Did a 2004 Impala today and your vid was spot on! My axle spline was stuck so thankfully I had a 2 jaw puller to use on it to break it out! That top bolt on the hub is a bugger thou. Info you provided in this vid is on the target. Thanks Much Appreciated!!!
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Just replaced mine, this video helped a lot 👍🏾
Glad it helped
Thank you. I was going to pay someone to do this. But with your help I feel I can give it a try.
Glad I could help
Thanks, I've done it a few times before, but it's nice to see how others tackle this. A few little tips here and there helped me out. I'm hoping this time it will go faster. Good job.
Glad it helped!
Great job!
Really great seeing you teach your son, absolutely great video. Thank you
Doing this this weekend. Failed inspection due to wheel bearing assembly on driverside and outer tierod ends. (Honestly tho never felt it driving wise.) Thanks for the vid! Between yours for the wheel bearing assembly and another youtuber for the tierod ends, I can easily do this job. It's not complicated at all! Thank you again!
glad it helped
@@CharlesAndCars Helped amazingly. Got everything done and got it aligned at the shop. Rides like a dream.
Nice job I'm doing this project with my dad rn.
@Charles And Cars hi thanks for this video, but I was wondering if there's a definite way to tell if it's the hub & not the tie rod? I'm not sure if when I do the 3 & 9 position, if I'm using to much force because the inner tie rod moves back & forth along with the opposite side (drive side move passenger side) is that normal? I believe it could also just be the hub, but would like to know before I spend money on the parts. Thank you in advance
There's a couple of checks you can do. Many times driving the car you can hear the bearing in the hub "howl" as it starts to go bad. When I test tie rod ends I leave the opposite tire on the ground when testing. I find it's easier to tell if the tie rod end is bad. You can spin the wheel while holding onto the coil spring and many times you can feel the vibration in the coil spring from the bad bearing. Just compare one side to the other. Many times that will make it obvious. Also watch the tie rod end when testing. Sometimes you can see the ball and socket moving independenly from each other when the tie rod is bad.
@@CharlesAndCars awesome. Will do that now thank you 👍👍
I thought it was a 33mm for the bolt that you take off 1st for the hub assembly??
I think it's either 34 or 36mm.
great video, good angles behind the hub.. 👍🏼👍🏼
glad it helped
Do u have to re blead ur breaks after getting errything back on
No,.... only if you opened the brake bleeder... just pump the brakes until the pedal gets firm.
@@CharlesAndCars thank u
What about the rear ones? I just got 22s and the rear right tire feel whobbly
Process is almost the same. Actually a little easier because you don't have to deal with a CV axle. Have to reach through the hub access hole to get to the hub bolts, but basically the same.
Nut sizes for this job?
Not sure what you're asking?
@@CharlesAndCars got it, thanks. On my Chevy was 36 mm axle nut and the caliper and bearing bolts 13 mm socket for the bolts. All done, all good thank you!
You can get the hub off by putting the tire back on with 3 nuts hand tightened and kick it back and forth instead of the hammer effort.
Great job that is exactly what I needed. I Subed. My kinda video. Good editing too.Thanks. Now I can do the job with out any guessing.I need to get the big socket though. Keep up the good work.
Glad it helped
Do you know the torque specs for the brake calipers?
Caliper to Bracket 70 ft lbs. Mounting Bracket to Knuckle 133 ft lbs.
Charles And Cars thanks man , do you know about the rear caliper torque specs?
32 ft lbs
Charles And Cars what about bracket to knuckle?
It's not necessary to torque wrench on that lol
Unless drum. then it's perfectly adjusted before assembled. Try backing up in reverse 5 miles an hr and press the brakes to adjust rear brakes
I love telling ppl how to work on it and have them turn the wrench 🔧 for me…. 😂 hard to find anyone now that will do this for me, both stepdaughters left the nest finally 😂😢😕 younger one left to the air force, based in Texas, older one left to Nebraska now…. 😢 who’s gonna turn wrenches for me now….
Hey yooper, just pay me in beer and ill learn anything you care to teach. Cheers from illinois
Shouldn't take more than an hour or so.
Could always jam a screwdriver in the fins of the rotor and tighten up the hub bearing bolt
I used a sledge hammer and pipe wrench to break the wheel bearing free. Part of the old bearing broke off in the knuckle and could not be moved. I had to put the new bearing in despite this. But i think it would have been wiser to buy a new steering knuckle
Big help clearing up some confusion I had half way through the process, thank you very much.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the vid! Did a 2004 Impala today and your vid was spot on! My axle spline was stuck so thankfully I had a 2 jaw puller to use on it to break it out! That top bolt on the hub is a bugger thou. Info you provided in this vid is on the target. Thanks Much Appreciated!!!
glad it helped