Great job on the restoration! Enjoyed all 3 parts. Very detailed and helpful especially the crossover work. I did the same thing to my pair a couple of years back. I think that you will find that the sound will get richer as the crossover components and the speakers "break in" mine did. Go ahead and give them some juice. Some smooth jazz with heavy bass will show them off. The bass response on the fives is amazing but they aren't boomy. They show off when the music has a tight heavy bass line. Enjoy!
This was amazing all the way. Great work! I just found a pair for sale for 500 bucks fairly close by. I may jump on them, now that I know how to go about dealing with any issues they might have. Thanks!
Thanks so much for posting this thee part series on your Model Five restoration. I’m in the middle of restoring a pair now (my first speaker restoration) and I wish I found your videos before I got going. So far so good on my crossovers but I am going to have to revisit some of my Danish oil technique 😜. You had lots of tips that I found helpful! Cheers!
Great videos! Quick connects is the way to go. Your fiberglass was in great shape. Not done many but most had mild. Mask, gloves, and long sleeves every time.
Hello, nicely restored 👍, I prefer to use a mixture of waterproof dispersion glue and sawdust to repair damaged wood. The area repaired in this way can also be stained, or for a fine finish, putty with wood putty in the corresponding shade. I soften a very damaged area with steam, then cut out the veneer (after years) and stick a new piece, when this is done carefully you will not find a damaged area after re-sanding and surface treatment. I ALWAYS connect the woofer to the crossover separately, if possible, I create separate terminals for it - I can use BI-Wirng or BI-Amping connections. I would NEVER really ever use a woofer shared with other speakers (a branch minus the signal on the wires) - WHY - the woofer coil is 1) a pretty decent power guzzler 2) when oscillating on the magnet, a decent generator of a disturbing signal for the other speakers and distortion occurs . For the internal connection of the woofer and crossover, I use wires that are at most one order of mm2 smaller than the connection to the amplifier (for domestic reprobeds 8-OHM 150Wsin: input 4mm2, woofer 2.5mm2, center and treble 1.5mm2). Nice day 🙂 Tom
I would have refinished the back panel. I prefer satin black. The speaker board is a coin toss but I prefer it black. Like on the Klipsch you could have used screws and magnets to solve the scruffy Velcro issue. Magnets make removal easy but on my Quartets I have added a barely visible loop of black string at the bottom to make the removal easy. The pick is nasty if you remove the grills often. I'd use a hot glue gun on the grille to anchor all of those loose strands of material. They always get worse over time. Overall a super job, I learnt a lot.
Really enjoyed this video. Some great pointers. Was wondering if you you covered the Kenwood 700 M amp in a video? I have one along with the 700 C control amp and would love to see the restoration process!
I have the 700M video on my to do list but I have not gotten around to it yet. I am still searching for a non working 700C at the moment. I do have the 700T, the set is almost complete.
Excellent restoration, really well done! And you didn't mention that those crossovers have been rebuilt at some time. Those are newer Dayton caps and Jantzen resistors.
@@NovaluxStereophonic Question about treating the surrounds. I heard that DOT-3 brake fluid works like the stuff from Vintage AR Parts. Would you agree or have you heard of using this?
Why dont you change coils and put crossover on wood board. Metal plate i wooden steaker is horibble. 51 years old, make diy speakers over 30 years. Never leave metal core coils in crossover.
The cost of those caps etc could have got u some fine modern speakers.. R these speakers worth all this effort... Twist wire solder methods classy... Finish off with some crappy electro music.. Perfect
This is his business. If it wasn't worth it, he wouldn't do it. This was a very honest restoration, mess ups not hidden. I think he did a fine job and in my opinion, it was worth all of the effort. If you read reviews, the KLH Model 5 was a direct competitor to the AR3a To me, these look better than new.
It's so rewarding to see someone refinish vintage equipment
Great job on the restoration! Enjoyed all 3 parts. Very detailed and helpful especially the crossover work. I did the same thing to my pair a couple of years back. I think that you will find that the sound will get richer as the crossover components and the speakers "break in" mine did. Go ahead and give them some juice. Some smooth jazz with heavy bass will show them off. The bass response on the fives is amazing but they aren't boomy. They show off when the music has a tight heavy bass line. Enjoy!
This was amazing all the way. Great work! I just found a pair for sale for 500 bucks fairly close by. I may jump on them, now that I know how to go about dealing with any issues they might have. Thanks!
Thanks so much for posting this thee part series on your Model Five restoration. I’m in the middle of restoring a pair now (my first speaker restoration) and I wish I found your videos before I got going. So far so good on my crossovers but I am going to have to revisit some of my Danish oil technique 😜. You had lots of tips that I found helpful! Cheers!
Nicely done and very good job. I have 2 sets and looking of doing the same restorations. Thanks.
Great work! I will be giving a pair of model 17's this treatment.
Great videos! Quick connects is the way to go. Your fiberglass was in great shape. Not done many but most had mild. Mask, gloves, and long sleeves every time.
Excellent work !
Hello, nicely restored 👍, I prefer to use a mixture of waterproof dispersion glue and sawdust to repair damaged wood. The area repaired in this way can also be stained, or for a fine finish, putty with wood putty in the corresponding shade. I soften a very damaged area with steam, then cut out the veneer (after years) and stick a new piece, when this is done carefully you will not find a damaged area after re-sanding and surface treatment.
I ALWAYS connect the woofer to the crossover separately, if possible, I create separate terminals for it - I can use BI-Wirng or BI-Amping connections. I would NEVER really ever use a woofer shared with other speakers (a branch minus the signal on the wires) - WHY - the woofer coil is 1) a pretty decent power guzzler 2) when oscillating on the magnet, a decent generator of a disturbing signal for the other speakers and distortion occurs .
For the internal connection of the woofer and crossover, I use wires that are at most one order of mm2 smaller than the connection to the amplifier (for domestic reprobeds 8-OHM 150Wsin: input 4mm2, woofer 2.5mm2, center and treble 1.5mm2).
Nice day 🙂 Tom
I would have refinished the back panel. I prefer satin black. The speaker board is a coin toss but I prefer it black. Like on the Klipsch you could have used screws and magnets to solve the scruffy Velcro issue. Magnets make removal easy but on my Quartets I have added a barely visible loop of black string at the bottom to make the removal easy. The pick is nasty if you remove the grills often. I'd use a hot glue gun on the grille to anchor all of those loose strands of material. They always get worse over time. Overall a super job, I learnt a lot.
Excellent content.
I especially enjoyed the trials and errors that you went through. Shit happens when working on old equipment 😂
Speechless. Simply.
You did fine job sir
Excelente trabajo. La prueba de sonido me gusto mucho. Ese amplificador KENWOOD ...que modelo es...? Muy buen match. Sonido impecable. Gracias!
You really need either a compass for cutting the foam gaskets, or a vinyl cutting machine. The small ones like Silhouette.
Really enjoyed this video. Some great pointers. Was wondering if you you covered the Kenwood 700 M amp in a video? I have one along with the 700 C control amp and would love to see the restoration process!
I have the 700M video on my to do list but I have not gotten around to it yet. I am still searching for a non working 700C at the moment. I do have the 700T, the set is almost complete.
I used auto gasket maker was really good
any good leads on where to get various hardware and parts (posts, grommets, gaskets, etc.)?
Super!
Excellent restoration, really well done! And you didn't mention that those crossovers have been rebuilt at some time. Those are newer Dayton caps and Jantzen resistors.
Please see part 1
That makes sense lol, sorry about that.@@NovaluxStereophonic
@@NovaluxStereophonic Question about treating the surrounds. I heard that DOT-3 brake fluid works like the stuff from Vintage AR Parts. Would you agree or have you heard of using this?
@@AstroHunter5280I do not have experience with that product. I have heard of another compound working well but it was not brake fluid.
@@NovaluxStereophonic what was the other compound you heard of?
should have used RTV Black silicon on the back plate. Could have used GR Reseasch tube connectors for + and - connections on rear.
Why dont you change coils and put crossover on wood board. Metal plate i wooden steaker is horibble. 51 years old, make diy speakers over 30 years. Never leave metal core coils in crossover.
You care way too much about details that no one else cares about. It makes the process longer than it needs to be. You should have painted the backs.
The cost of those caps etc could have got u some fine modern speakers.. R these speakers worth all this effort... Twist wire solder methods classy... Finish off with some crappy electro music.. Perfect
This is his business. If it wasn't worth it, he wouldn't do it. This was a very honest restoration, mess ups not hidden.
I think he did a fine job and in my opinion, it was worth all of the effort. If you read reviews, the KLH Model 5 was a direct competitor to the AR3a
To me, these look better than new.