Buy 2 extra springs for each shock and sandwich the three together and that solves all a arm and shock piston breakage and gives the thing some real suspension. Also you will absolutely need the aluminum diff covers if you want to keep those diffs in the truck. The plastic may work for a few runs but those are an absolute must. Those big tires I agree with you. Take the stock ones and epoxy the tire and rim for full protection and durability. You will absolutely need those carrier hubs or continue to break the others. Loose the aluminum a arms but they look cool. Aluminum plates under the diff helps. Aluminum steering rods are a must with your carriers which greatly improves steering but you must use the stock servo arm that connects to the aluminum horn on the servo. If you upgrade the arm you will break the pins in the servo and then chew the metal gears they upgraded but used the stock pins which can't handle the all aluminum steering setup. And last loose the body shell. It is unnecessary and if you are a real basher, it will be wasted in no time. Put a steel rod in your drive shaft and epoxy it inside and epoxy all around the outside of the shift which will stop the center box from sawing them in half on both sides and stops the ends from spreading.
I just purchased a Xmaxx 8s yesterday. I'm gonna keep it stock for now, when I do break anything ill upgrade to plastic RPM stuff. Not even thinking about aluminum parts. I'll do the shoe goo and drywall tape on the body to strengthen it. If stock esc dies ill get the hobbywing max 6.
I just build one yesterday, I noticed heavy tires and over powered breaks them. I snapped a axle cup in 2 at 50% power and tore a tire. I think the huge can setups are cool, not good for bashing. Takes the fun out of it. I may get haters from this but ive built a lot of these and stock tires and a system with a little more power then stock. I just put new bumpers front and rear on 2 XMAXX’s. And once you put heavy belted tires on a XMAXX. You start breaking suspension parts within 10 minutes. Bigger isn’t always better.
On the second machine you're smart to serve alarm and with the rest of the steel. It'll bend the s*** out of it, but it won't break and if you do replace it. It's either gonna strip the gears out of the one like you said or it's gonna break your pins inside that 2085x servo
From experience, the only worthy upgrade is the servo and tires. Most upgrade cost quite a bit, and if you break the upgrade you will need that money again for replacement parts. Stocks parts are available and at a decent price. Instead of putting hundreds into new parts, just buy stock parts. But I understand the thrill of tunning it with new parts.
my XMaxx run away from me last weekend out of control on a full throttle (still no upgrade / all stock) - it was functioning without a problem so far.. Fortunately no lady with a pram or anyone walking around me - XMaxx just hit a parked van in a full speed. No damage on XMaxx. .-)) but it seems I need to change the control unit at least. Servo as well. No other parts seem to need a change for me so far, amazing truck
i couldnt stop XMaxx going on full throttle without control... It happened suddenly after 1 year from when I bought it... very dangerous with such a big and heavy truck. later I realised I could just turn the radio controller off
I learned.. it was fu*king scary man - when it hit the van it sounded like a real car crash, my 7 years old son and some other kids witnessed (and laughed at me then trying to stop XMaxx crawling on the crossroad on its back. I put my hand on the rear diff to hold spinning XMaxx with tires balooning, no damage on my arm :-) it was a horrible situation and then I realised I could just turn the transmitter off. XMaxx did hit the van actualy about 40km/h and didnt bend its plate fortunately (because of its body) so the owner was OK and I dont need to pay anytning.. It hit it by the top of the body which is flat, has supports and can absorb a lot of dynamic pressure so it didnt hit the electronics ...and it only left a print on the van which we cleaned 🙂
When you land with the power applied, the sudden movement of the wheels up to speed that are driving the motor spin the motor up fast, and add that with throttle and it overloads the ESC/controller and it cuts off for their overcurrent protection stuff..Then eventually fries itself it seems lol
I don't know if. you go over comments from a video this old but I just wanted to tell you that because of this very good content ..... Im in the position to know some very important things about the X-Maxx Im probably picking up next week from my local Hobby Store.... (I always support th♀e Brick and Mortar Establishments)....The whole Aluminum vs Nylon/P;astic issue is just simple in my option..... Impact is just energy..... and the transfer of energy is different with metal ..... as it is for Nylon/Platic....the metal just doesn't flex.... its that simple... so for places like steering and servo gear ...... maybe hub carriers only ...... doing this I believe would be a better dynamic as far as durability of the overall RC...... Just my take on the things you went over in this video..... Now I'm a subscriber....... ☮~~~~~~~Out! 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice man! Xmaxx is definitely the “Top Dog” Machine in my opinion…..Yeah the closer to stock the better…..definitely steer clear of a lot of aluminum bits…..it just adds weight
The t-bone racing bumper's nice, but the reality is the extra weight of it was gonna rip it through those plastic screws on the botyou. Can't. Really tack anything on to the bumpers. I noticed the the screw mounts just aren't strong enough over time
@@RCKnockout stock esc was an issue for less than 0.5% of the first batches of units and not 50% of them like the community made it look, nowadays they are perfectly fine
@@DashzRight where did you get your percentages from?…..I’ve had three VXL8s escs….all garbage…..they all failed with critical errors….just my experience…..if I had good experiences I wouldn’t call them garbage
Omestly the best life out of an xmaxx man is stockm i had mine for a year and i been abusing the shit iut of it and smashing straight on in trees and sideays and it still goes strong. All i had to fix is just one time one of the steering servo plastic spurs.
@@GoFastRC there is always going to be a breaking point on any rc. It may as well be the suspension arms rather than something more vital like the bulkhead
EXCELLENT VIDEO ! Subscribed just for the straight up honesty. Worked in a hobby shop and did countless hours of service on Traxxas vehicles. The ones that had tons of Aluminum parts (all bling, not an upgrade at all) came in with more damage compared to the ones with original plastic parts. More damage means a bigger repair bill. Arrma vehicles, even with some factory Aluminum always..ALWAYS cost more to repair for the same damage as an X-Maxx. $125.00 and up for a Kraton chassis, $25.00 for X-Maxx as an example. KEEP YOUR X-MAXX stock as far as factory plastics. If you break a rear hub carrier, at that point Toss on a pair of RPM’s.
Absolutely Correct 👍 Upgrade the stock survo to the 2085X and upgrade the bell crank and arm from day 1 and its as tuff as you can get for minimum dollars. According to how bad you bash it😂👍
@RC Knockout my Xmaxx is my 1st Traxxas. I just thought I sucked at driving it. After the upgrade, it's awesome. The 2085X came with a better spring, too. Thank you for the great info. I'm looking forward to more great videos.
I agree that every aftermarket tire for the X-MAXX is "heavier" then stock...but, there ARE some that are only barely heavier. On top of that, at least two of those options are belted. First up is the DuraTrax Hatchet X Belted, which, through other people's testing, has proven to be an excellent replacement for the stock wheels/tires. You should really give them a try. The second is a tire that's not yet actually released, but will be coming very soon. Pro-Line is about to release the Masher X, and, like the just-mentioned DuraTrax tire, these are also belted. According to the information released so far by proline, the weight should only be slightly heavier than the stock wheels/tires.
Yeah but belted tires in my experience aren’t as good for bashing. I’m sure they’ll do alright but I don’t think they’ll be able to absorb the shock as well as the super soft stock tires and foams. So it comes down to more than just the weight
@@RCKnockout Honestly, I don't have the stock tires to compare with...the roller (more lime a pre-roller) I bought from an RC chop shop didn't come with any. But, I do know that the DuraTrax tires are quite soft. Some of the TH-cam videos I watched even mentioned that they're (supposedly) almost as soft as the stock tires (again, don't have any, so can't personally compare). As for the Pro-Line Masher X tires, Pro-Line 'claims' they're side...but that will depend on which of their rubber compounds the tires are made from. Guess everyone will just have to wait to find out. Regarding the DuraTrax tires, I've already bought them, and I'm more than willing to see how well they "hold up to abuse"...well, once I get all the parts, including electronics, to build the roller into an 'operating' X-MAXX. Ordered the Castle MMX-8S & 1717-1260kV combo to power it, along with a ProTek 370TBL to handle steering (the other parts are primarily 'cosmetic', changing the orange parts to blue). Still trying to figure out the appropriate gearing (for mid-40s to mid-50s, on 8S).
@@robbryan3044 nice sounds like a pretty sweet setup. I run 22t pinion and the 54t spur gear. It goes nearly 55mph. Yeah you’ll definitely need to test those tires out
I am thinking about buying one. The upgraded steering servo and max 6 esc are must haves, change the pinion and spur gear to strong steel ones. The servo saver should have a screw put in from the bottom to prevent the plastic cylinder from snapping. The RPM plastic hubs are ways stronger and come with oversize bearings. I think that is a good upgrade for people who bash. They sell a 2 piece driveshaft on ebay that would be a good upgrade for someone who bashes hard to prevent the stock driveshaft from bending. I also plan on buying a stronger body. The stock shock shafts can be replaced with stronger ones from traxxas. I think those are the best upgrades based on talking to other owners.
Wow….that’s impressive…..you know a lot about the Xmaxx…..especially for never owning one lol 😂……you’ve definitely done your research….it’s a BEAST of a MACHINE…tons of Fun 😎
Anything can be broken if you crash it hard enough. Break something once buy another stocker, break it twice and I think about aftermarket parts then, but I used to do the same buying stuff and adding weight that’s not needed
Stronger fan go for hyper flow fans their great and Dillon the guy who makes them is awesome and very helpful and for the max 6 set up I have the 8s motor but I was also able to drop mine rite in without any cutting which is why I chose that one and not the max 5 I thought the max 5 would be to much for bashing I didn’t need all the speed I don’t do speed runs or anything not interested in top speed as much as I am bashing. But good video man very informative for anyone looking for ideas 👍🏼👍🏼
If you want a durable X-MAXX, or any durable RC aluminum isn’t your friend. Aluminum adds weight, and doesn’t flex. You want your RC as light as possible. Treating the plastic also helps a lot.
For sure! Maybe not with the xt60 but definitely would probably at least have better burst with the xt90. Probably would prevent the rc going into limp mode from the esc requiring more voltage than the deans connector can supply
Lol. Because they’re awesome! In hindsight I probably should have stopped at two 😂. All of them are kinda built for different things though which makes them all perform different. They all have different power systems and wheels / tires.
I built one from part by part. Everything is stock except for proline bad lands tires, stainless steel screws, a Andrew Appleton's 7075 motor mount, Andrew Appleton's 30/30 1.5mm gears, a Tenshock 6 pole 750kv brushless motor with a hobbywing max 5, stainless steel skid plates and a t-bones front bumper gard. It's a beast. But I have two x-maxxs and I have been in this hobby since I 12 and I'm 44 now. Look up my raptor maxx by rabid babger racing on TH-cam.
@@RCKnockout only to put my boat trailers in the water. But I check everything over after it's been in the water. I have put marine grease in everything on it.
Hi RC KNockout I am a big fan of you. Your driving and channel is the best in the world not only in the world in the universe also not only in the universe in the galaxies also. Super ultimate video is xmaxx 1/7 scale. I like you very much. I have subscribed from all my 5 email id. I like your telling speed. Bye.
It looks like it'll do back flips. Kind of bummed out when they went to the second revision of the motor For the stock X max, I think it's 800 or something like that.The twelve hundred you could do backflips But the latest one you couldn't you can't.
@@brockseals8884 the original one is a 1600kv which is by far the best motor…then they swapped over to the 1200kv…I’m not sure what they’re running in the newest Xmaxx
Awesome video like always! I have a Xmaxx and I'm putting a max6 combo in it, just wondering what's size pinion and spur gear I should run for all round bashing, but I don't want to go crazy and have it over heating all the time, just something nice around, and what are your thoughts about removing the cush drive? Cheers 🍻
Just am a little concerned about running mod1 gears that's all , thinking they might strip out fast, the gds gears on ebay look okay, but I was more leaning towards the vitavon set up, looks like a tuff set up! Not sure I'm a little confused 😕
Correct, I like the mod1.5 because of the bigger teeth, the only thing is I can not find them with a cush drive, and I'm just worried if I run the mod 1 with the cush drive set up the teeth might strip off the gears.
@@RCKnockout so I found a x maxx but needs diffs fixed. Normally is it just a ring gear that needs replaced? Or is it the internal gears? It’s not very old but both diffs are trashed.
It’s hit and miss. I think most of the aluminum parts are tough. The fitment or lack there Of has been the main issue I’ve encountered with Integy in the past though
Just a quick question, in the beginning of the video you said you were putting the max 6 esc, but later said you were running the max5. Which one do you actually run? Tyia. Just making sure I get the right one.
The only place I know that has them is the tbone Racing website. But they’re sold out of the bumper that I have. They might have a second type of bumper available for the Xmaxx though. You’ll have to check into it.
I would rather buy a rig more suitable for bashing rather than spend thousands on a x-maxx. Too many other brands out there that offer more for less money.
Like arrma? I have 3 kratons and my buddy at work has a xmaxx and it is always broke. Don't get me wrong I own 7 traxxas rcs but I kinda was disappointed with the x maxx that just my opinion and ya know what they say about that! What is the msrp on a xmaxx no days?
Josh Herrman not sure if you’re talking about the 1/8 scale Kraton? If so, I wouldn’t put that in the same category as an Xmaxx. If I did compare Traxxas to Arrma though, It does seem like Traxxas parts are much more affordable than the Arrma parts so it’s cheaper to fix when ya break. That’s an advantage. We all got personal preference though
@@RCKnockout im talking about the 1/5 k8s. There cheaper to buy buy seems like less breakage to me. They both have there advantages and disadvantages in my eyes.
@@RCKnockout yep!! All plastic still but I work the Maxx hard. It's 3 years old and the esc has been replaced earlier this year and just burned up the original motor. I've replaced countless plastic lol. I'm currently upgrading my 4x4 Stampede to an XO-PEDE. It's has the Castle Sidewinder 4 combo as well and I run it on 3s.
@@RCKnockout once I burn up or get the opportunity I'll upgrade the Xmaxx motor to the Castle XLX2 combo. The power that system has is amazing!! Great videos by the way!
@@allywilkeforsenate unfortunately there is no such thing as an indestructible rc. Especially if you’re jumping stuff they’re all gonna break. Didn’t matter what brand or how much it cost. Some of the cheap plastic stuff is easier to break though than the better quality plastics
Appreciate the honesty and seems like you have learned a lot of what not to do/buy but you lost me at the battery adapter plugs when you said you don't like to solder. You said it came with the plugs already but you can clearly see heat shrink over a deans to traxxas plug. Soldering is not that hard and you are losing out on performance. The more connectors you run, the more resistance, heat build up and energy loss you will see.
Yeah I’ve learned a lot. I’m not sure what esc you’re referring to? It might be running an adapter but the deans connector is already presoldered. I’ve had nothing but issues trying to solder. I’m not sure if my soldering iron isn’t getting hot enough or what the issue is?
Someone by the name RC Traxxas is replying on your channel to comments left by people saying they have won something and to DM them. Not sure if you knew that. Just fyi
I’ve upgraded mine to aluminum but it might make the steering bellcrank more likely to break. I’m not sure because I have an aluminum steering bellcrank. Usually when you upgrade one thing it’s the next weakest thing that will break
@@adamcantryn4951 it doesn’t perform toy grade though. Still to this day it’s my favorite rc. When you combine the size, speed, capability, cheap part replacements and ease of maintenance. I don’t think anything has gotten close to touching it. If anyone does make something better it’ll probably be Traxxas themselves
Yes, the stock servo and electronics are very frustrating.You gotta get rid of them. max six is just more sensible The five doesn't give you any benefit
Why do people put aluminum arms and other metal parts on their rc cars....its expensive and doesn't help with durability at all...aluminum arms just transfer impact shock to other parts of the car that are weaker...or worse impact shock bends or warps the expensive aluminum...now you wasted money...plastic is best...it absorbs impact shock and its cheap to replace... metal parts should only be in the drive line...
A lot of parts on my UDR are aluminum and it's only broke three times. Stripped rear diff gear, burned out ESC, and broke an outer drive pin on my rear axle. I use my UDR for baja style driving but I have jumped it a few times at a pretty rediculous height. Aluminum isn't bad at all if used in the proper way.
Thanks man! They definitely have a threshold. If you cross the threshold they will tear open. I still believe they’re the best for bashing though. It’s when you have the throttle pinned you have to worry a little bit about them exploding
Is there a part 2? Im confused bro, you basically said keep everything stock and if your esc goes out get a Max6.... Got it..... Was a good video though bro. Thinking about getting one, check my channel though as I have been an Arrma guy for a while 😎🤣😂
@@RCKnockout ok, just checking bro, so basically your saying that most things are good to leave stock, maybe get a Max6, I also know that RPM makes. Hubs and bearings that most say are essential. And upgraded pinion and Spur gears for strength 👍 Looks like you unfortunately spent a lot of money on things you don't reccomend.... Tough $$ lessons
@@3SonsRC yeah I would probably agree that the rear hub carriers are a weak point. Upgrading the Servo is a big one in my mind. Ya live ya learn I guess lol 😂
@@RCKnockout new Subscriber BTW, I'm more an Arrma🚀🚀🚀😎 guy but seriously considering getting an Xmaxx, I respect both camps.... They both have strengths for sure, Arrma's tend to handle better, can go bigger and better air control, while traxxas are SUPER durable out the box (Arrma's are Tough but not as tough as Traxxas stock) and have more Monster Truck style Bashers which I'm very interested in to round out my collection of RC's
I must disagree... The less aluminum the better... Plastic flexes and goes back to form...way more durable... Metals just break plus add weight.... Cool video... But I have one of the best xmaxxs period check my build and channel 🍻
Bulkeads are very weak on Xmaxx and majn cause for 90 oercent of problems in these trucks. So many so called ‘upgrades’ yet NOBODY makes a upgrade bullhead for Xmaxx. Stress when leanding warps them and they all crack in sxact same spot. Finalthe Vitavon dudes making a aluminum bulkhead but its over $600 and all the idiots talking it down and instead buying fancy looking wheels
Lol, you list all these upgrades to make the best basher....then you say after each one oh this isn't necessary for a good basher... lol just leave it stick then! Replace things as they break. Not before. "If it ain't broke dont fix it"
Buy 2 extra springs for each shock and sandwich the three together and that solves all a arm and shock piston breakage and gives the thing some real suspension. Also you will absolutely need the aluminum diff covers if you want to keep those diffs in the truck. The plastic may work for a few runs but those are an absolute must. Those big tires I agree with you. Take the stock ones and epoxy the tire and rim for full protection and durability. You will absolutely need those carrier hubs or continue to break the others. Loose the aluminum a arms but they look cool. Aluminum plates under the diff helps. Aluminum steering rods are a must with your carriers which greatly improves steering but you must use the stock servo arm that connects to the aluminum horn on the servo. If you upgrade the arm you will break the pins in the servo and then chew the metal gears they upgraded but used the stock pins which can't handle the all aluminum steering setup. And last loose the body shell. It is unnecessary and if you are a real basher, it will be wasted in no time. Put a steel rod in your drive shaft and epoxy it inside and epoxy all around the outside of the shift which will stop the center box from sawing them in half on both sides and stops the ends from spreading.
Those are some good tips! Thanks for sharing!
I just purchased a Xmaxx 8s yesterday. I'm gonna keep it stock for now, when I do break anything ill upgrade to plastic RPM stuff. Not even thinking about aluminum parts. I'll do the shoe goo and drywall tape on the body to strengthen it. If stock esc dies ill get the hobbywing max 6.
That sounds like a pretty good plan! 👍😉
I just build one yesterday, I noticed heavy tires and over powered breaks them. I snapped a axle cup in 2 at 50% power and tore a tire. I think the huge can setups are cool, not good for bashing. Takes the fun out of it. I may get haters from this but ive built a lot of these and stock tires and a system with a little more power then stock. I just put new bumpers front and rear on 2 XMAXX’s. And once you put heavy belted tires on a XMAXX. You start breaking suspension parts within 10 minutes. Bigger isn’t always better.
Very true. Weights kinda the enemy if you wanna make a good basher
Great info , 👍👍 to bad this vid wasn’t made before everyone bought all this aluminium parts like I did ... plastic is the way to go and a max 6 👍👍
Thank you! Definitely plastic and a Max 6 👍
On the second machine you're smart to serve alarm and with the rest of the steel. It'll bend the s*** out of it, but it won't break and if you do replace it. It's either gonna strip the gears out of the one like you said or it's gonna break your pins inside that 2085x servo
From experience, the only worthy upgrade is the servo and tires.
Most upgrade cost quite a bit, and if you break the upgrade you will need that money again for replacement parts.
Stocks parts are available and at a decent price. Instead of putting hundreds into new parts, just buy stock parts.
But I understand the thrill of tunning it with new parts.
To all their own…..servo for sure…..esc also not very good…but you’re right, at least the stock parts are relatively cheap
@@RCKnockout I hear esc horror stories all the time of escs going out but I haver 3 xmaxxes and 1 xrt and so far no issues .... some are years old
@@G35Jeesh you’re lucky I suppose….All mine went out with in 6 month of new
my XMaxx run away from me last weekend out of control on a full throttle (still no upgrade / all stock) - it was functioning without a problem so far.. Fortunately no lady with a pram or anyone walking around me - XMaxx just hit a parked van in a full speed. No damage on XMaxx. .-)) but it seems I need to change the control unit at least. Servo as well. No other parts seem to need a change for me so far, amazing truck
i couldnt stop XMaxx going on full throttle without control... It happened suddenly after 1 year from when I bought it... very dangerous with such a big and heavy truck. later I realised I could just turn the radio controller off
@@jlock2043 yeah that’s definitely scary…turning the transmitter off should have stopped the runaway though
I learned.. it was fu*king scary man - when it hit the van it sounded like a real car crash, my 7 years old son and some other kids witnessed (and laughed at me then trying to stop XMaxx crawling on the crossroad on its back. I put my hand on the rear diff to hold spinning XMaxx with tires balooning, no damage on my arm :-) it was a horrible situation and then I realised I could just turn the transmitter off. XMaxx did hit the van actualy about 40km/h and didnt bend its plate fortunately (because of its body) so the owner was OK and I dont need to pay anytning.. It hit it by the top of the body which is flat, has supports and can absorb a lot of dynamic pressure so it didnt hit the electronics ...and it only left a print on the van which we cleaned 🙂
@@jlock2043 well at least it sounds like best case scenario…nothing got too messed up
When you land with the power applied, the sudden movement of the wheels up to speed that are driving the motor spin the motor up fast, and add that with throttle and it overloads the ESC/controller and it cuts off for their overcurrent protection stuff..Then eventually fries itself it seems lol
Wow excellent video bro, I just got my first Xmaxx and this is exactly the video I needed. You the man!!!
Appreciate it! Glad you enjoyed it! Have fun with your XMaxx!! 😎
So I have won? Or I have been selected to win? How do I dm you on TH-cam? I thought all I can do is leave a comment thanks
@RC Traxxas hey, you said I won something? Awesome.
Wicked cool video I got me mostly aluminum suspention with stock shocks. Turns ok with sledge hammer tires 18 35 gearing.
Glad you liked it! Sounds like a cool setup!
I don't know if. you go over comments from a video this old but I just wanted to tell you that because of this very good content ..... Im in the position to know some very important things about the X-Maxx Im probably picking up next week from my local Hobby Store....
(I always support th♀e Brick and Mortar Establishments)....The whole Aluminum vs Nylon/P;astic issue is just simple in my option..... Impact is just energy..... and the transfer of energy is different with metal ..... as it is for Nylon/Platic....the metal just doesn't flex.... its that simple... so for places like steering and servo gear ...... maybe hub carriers only ...... doing this I believe would be a better dynamic as far as durability of the overall RC...... Just my take on the things you went over in this video..... Now I'm a subscriber.......
☮~~~~~~~Out! 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice man! Xmaxx is definitely the “Top Dog” Machine in my opinion…..Yeah the closer to stock the better…..definitely steer clear of a lot of aluminum bits…..it just adds weight
The t-bone racing bumper's nice, but the reality is the extra weight of it was gonna rip it through those plastic screws on the botyou. Can't.
Really tack anything on to the bumpers. I noticed the the screw mounts just aren't strong enough over time
I think T-Bone racing closed down…I don’t know if you could even get ahold of these bumpers anymore
Leaving it stock. Easy, simple and effective.
Yes and no……stock esc is garbage but aside from that stock isn’t bad
@@RCKnockout stock esc was an issue for less than 0.5% of the first batches of units and not 50% of them like the community made it look, nowadays they are perfectly fine
@@DashzRight where did you get your percentages from?…..I’ve had three VXL8s escs….all garbage…..they all failed with critical errors….just my experience…..if I had good experiences I wouldn’t call them garbage
Omestly the best life out of an xmaxx man is stockm i had mine for a year and i been abusing the shit iut of it and smashing straight on in trees and sideays and it still goes strong. All i had to fix is just one time one of the steering servo plastic spurs.
Close to stock is good but it can always be made better…..
Aluminum A arms are a bad idea 👎 am glad you mentioned it later 😀
At the time it seemed like a good idea lol 😂
@@RCKnockout Lol when I was little I wanted aluminum a arms for my slash, but my dad said no and I never knew why 😂🤣
@@GoFastRC there is always going to be a breaking point on any rc. It may as well be the suspension arms rather than something more vital like the bulkhead
EXCELLENT VIDEO !
Subscribed just for the straight up honesty.
Worked in a hobby shop and did countless hours of service on Traxxas vehicles. The ones that had tons of Aluminum parts (all bling, not an upgrade at all) came in with more damage compared to the ones with original plastic parts. More damage means a bigger repair bill. Arrma vehicles, even with some factory Aluminum always..ALWAYS cost more to repair for the same damage as an X-Maxx. $125.00 and up for a Kraton chassis, $25.00 for X-Maxx as an example.
KEEP YOUR X-MAXX stock as far as factory plastics. If you break a rear hub carrier, at that point Toss on a pair of RPM’s.
Very true! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video I wish I would have seen this before heavy bashing I think your right about the big jumps killing stock escs
Yep the stock escs definitely seem to crap out all of a sudden….I think that something within the circuitry gets shorted on those big impacts
just bought a xmaxx 8s... good info
Thanks! Congrats on the purchase!
Your honesty is so appreciated sir. -subscribed✔️
Thank you 😊
Absolutely Correct 👍 Upgrade the stock survo to the 2085X and upgrade the bell crank and arm from day 1 and its as tuff as you can get for minimum dollars. According to how bad you bash it😂👍
Yeah the servo is a great upgrade to do…..the main issue with the bellcrank is the servo saver spring is a bit weak….it’s not terrible though
@RC Knockout my Xmaxx is my 1st Traxxas. I just thought I sucked at driving it. After the upgrade, it's awesome. The 2085X came with a better spring, too. Thank you for the great info. I'm looking forward to more great videos.
@@hagerz glad you enjoyed it and found it helpful! 👍😉
Really like the honest review! Great video 🤜🤛
Thank you 😊
@@RCKnockout and then 3
Smart to leave the stock servo arm
Yeah it definitely has some give to help save that servo from big impacts
I agree that every aftermarket tire for the X-MAXX is "heavier" then stock...but, there ARE some that are only barely heavier. On top of that, at least two of those options are belted.
First up is the DuraTrax Hatchet X Belted, which, through other people's testing, has proven to be an excellent replacement for the stock wheels/tires. You should really give them a try. The second is a tire that's not yet actually released, but will be coming very soon. Pro-Line is about to release the Masher X, and, like the just-mentioned DuraTrax tire, these are also belted. According to the information released so far by proline, the weight should only be slightly heavier than the stock wheels/tires.
Yeah but belted tires in my experience aren’t as good for bashing. I’m sure they’ll do alright but I don’t think they’ll be able to absorb the shock as well as the super soft stock tires and foams. So it comes down to more than just the weight
@@RCKnockout Honestly, I don't have the stock tires to compare with...the roller (more lime a pre-roller) I bought from an RC chop shop didn't come with any. But, I do know that the DuraTrax tires are quite soft. Some of the TH-cam videos I watched even mentioned that they're (supposedly) almost as soft as the stock tires (again, don't have any, so can't personally compare). As for the Pro-Line Masher X tires, Pro-Line 'claims' they're side...but that will depend on which of their rubber compounds the tires are made from. Guess everyone will just have to wait to find out.
Regarding the DuraTrax tires, I've already bought them, and I'm more than willing to see how well they "hold up to abuse"...well, once I get all the parts, including electronics, to build the roller into an 'operating' X-MAXX. Ordered the Castle MMX-8S & 1717-1260kV combo to power it, along with a ProTek 370TBL to handle steering (the other parts are primarily 'cosmetic', changing the orange parts to blue). Still trying to figure out the appropriate gearing (for mid-40s to mid-50s, on 8S).
@@robbryan3044 nice sounds like a pretty sweet setup. I run 22t pinion and the 54t spur gear. It goes nearly 55mph. Yeah you’ll definitely need to test those tires out
I am thinking about buying one. The upgraded steering servo and max 6 esc are must haves, change the pinion and spur gear to strong steel ones. The servo saver should have a screw put in from the bottom to prevent the plastic cylinder from snapping. The RPM plastic hubs are ways stronger and come with oversize bearings. I think that is a good upgrade for people who bash. They sell a 2 piece driveshaft on ebay that would be a good upgrade for someone who bashes hard to prevent the stock driveshaft from bending. I also plan on buying a stronger body. The stock shock shafts can be replaced with stronger ones from traxxas. I think those are the best upgrades based on talking to other owners.
Wow….that’s impressive…..you know a lot about the Xmaxx…..especially for never owning one lol 😂……you’ve definitely done your research….it’s a BEAST of a MACHINE…tons of Fun 😎
@@RCKnockout I will get one soon lol, I was going to get something smaller until I saw how tough this thing is.
@@davidbrennan5 it is very tough! You’ve probably been thinking about getting one for quite awhile lol 😂
Anything can be broken if you crash it hard enough. Break something once buy another stocker, break it twice and I think about aftermarket parts then, but I used to do the same buying stuff and adding weight that’s not needed
Yeah you’re right! You learn through trial and error.
Mine was shipped today! Can't wait! Great info! You've earned my sub🏎😎
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😉
Stronger fan go for hyper flow fans their great and Dillon the guy who makes them is awesome and very helpful and for the max 6 set up I have the 8s motor but I was also able to drop mine rite in without any cutting which is why I chose that one and not the max 5 I thought the max 5 would be to much for bashing I didn’t need all the speed I don’t do speed runs or anything not interested in top speed as much as I am bashing. But good video man very informative for anyone looking for ideas 👍🏼👍🏼
@@gregoryduboisjr.ariplushtr1434 glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for the info!
If you want a durable X-MAXX, or any durable RC aluminum isn’t your friend. Aluminum adds weight, and doesn’t flex. You want your RC as light as possible. Treating the plastic also helps a lot.
I wonder if you would get more power by changing out the deans connectors for some xt60 or xt90 connectors.. good video man
For sure! Maybe not with the xt60 but definitely would probably at least have better burst with the xt90. Probably would prevent the rc going into limp mode from the esc requiring more voltage than the deans connector can supply
@@RCKnockout "definitely would probably".......🤔
I SMASHED THE BELL BABY
Appreciate it!
Why do you own 3 Xmaxxes? Just curious because that's a huge investment!
Lol. Because they’re awesome! In hindsight I probably should have stopped at two 😂. All of them are kinda built for different things though which makes them all perform different. They all have different power systems and wheels / tires.
What’s your ideal gearing for X-Maxx as a general purpose basher?
Probably 18t pinion and 50t spur
@@RCKnockout cool, I bought a 46t and a 50t. My pinion came loose and toasted itself and the spur.
@@dstjamesrc6395 yeah I’d definitely say the 50t would probably be the best one to start with
Good I really enjoy your videos. Keep at it.
Thanks man! 😉
I built one from part by part. Everything is stock except for proline bad lands tires, stainless steel screws, a Andrew Appleton's 7075 motor mount, Andrew Appleton's 30/30 1.5mm gears, a Tenshock 6 pole 750kv brushless motor with a hobbywing max 5, stainless steel skid plates and a t-bones front bumper gard. It's a beast. But I have two x-maxxs and I have been in this hobby since I 12 and I'm 44 now. Look up my raptor maxx by rabid babger racing on TH-cam.
Nice man! I’ve done the same thing building rc cars…I’ve built one of my Xmaxx’s from scratch too actually
@@RCKnockout my raptor maxx body that I painted took me 6 hours to paint lol.
@@Rabid_Badger_racing wow that’s a lot of time invested into a body…do you run it much?
@@RCKnockout only to put my boat trailers in the water. But I check everything over after it's been in the water. I have put marine grease in everything on it.
@@Rabid_Badger_racing oh I gotcha!
What color is that yellow just plain yellow or something else I’m going to pain on like that
@@PatW-n9eI can’t remember what it’s called…but I’m pretty sure the Brand is Duratrax
Hi RC KNockout I am a big fan of you. Your driving and channel is the best in the world not only in the world in the universe also not only in the universe in the galaxies also. Super ultimate video is xmaxx 1/7 scale. I like you very much. I have subscribed from all my 5 email id. I like your telling speed. Bye.
There’s only 3 upgrades you absolutely need that are not cosmetic:
ESC
Tires
Servos
That’s a valid point
AWESOME INFO BRO. THANKYOU.
You’re welcome! 😉
Very good content vid. Great suggestions!
Thank you 😊
What and where can I get that stand for the Xmaxx!! I need one 🙏👍
Just gotta save up your money 💰
@@RCKnockout I said where???? Lol
@@RCKnockout you have Instagram page?
@@housesaint1685 EBay, Amazon, Traxxas…from a Hobby Shop….a bunch of different places sell it
@@housesaint1685 yeah it’s rc_knockout
can you send link for that stand?
I got it on Amazon….not sure if they sell it anymore though
Amazing video!
Thank you 😊
Where did you get the stand from
Amazon
What unbreakable body do you have ? And would you say it’s good or no? Thanks
Toyota Tacoma TRD - The fit isn’t the best but it does seem to be unbreakable
It looks like it'll do back flips. Kind of bummed out when they went to the second revision of the motor For the stock X max, I think it's 800 or something like that.The twelve hundred you could do backflips But the latest one you couldn't you can't.
@@brockseals8884 the original one is a 1600kv which is by far the best motor…then they swapped over to the 1200kv…I’m not sure what they’re running in the newest Xmaxx
Awesome video like always! I have a Xmaxx and I'm putting a max6 combo in it, just wondering what's size pinion and spur gear I should run for all round bashing, but I don't want to go crazy and have it over heating all the time, just something nice around, and what are your thoughts about removing the cush drive? Cheers 🍻
Thanks! I feel like 18/50 is a good gearing setup….I’d probably keep the Cush Drive in
Just am a little concerned about running mod1 gears that's all , thinking they might strip out fast, the gds gears on ebay look okay, but I was more leaning towards the vitavon set up, looks like a tuff set up! Not sure I'm a little confused 😕
@@zap5026 stock gears are mod 1……the Vitavon gear conversion is to a 1.5 mod gear
Correct, I like the mod1.5 because of the bigger teeth, the only thing is I can not find them with a cush drive, and I'm just worried if I run the mod 1 with the cush drive set up the teeth might strip off the gears.
@@zap5026 I’m running the Vitavon gears….I haven’t had an issue yet
Where did you get that stand for the XMAXX? I need a tall one like that
I bought it on Amazon about 6 years ago…not sure if it’s available anymore though
@@RCKnockout is there a brand on that thing??
@@housesaint1685 no it doesn’t have any labeling on it
@@RCKnockout you post RC videos and can’t even help us out find something similar? All stands are table tops. Need one like that
Sir, what is the exact name of this shocks. Integy and what serial!? Thanks
Sorry not sure
@@RCKnockout thanks anyway. Found it!
what stand is that im in a wheelchair and this would help so much
I honestly have no clue. I bought it at least 5 years ago I believe it was from Amazon. I think it cost me about $80
@@RCKnockout any idea on what to lookup I cannot find anything even close
@@Popp-A-Smurf You could try Hpi Baja stand or Losi 5ive t stand or 1/5 scale stand. That’s what this one technically is for
whats the stand your using?
I think it’s one I bought off Amazon a few years back
I’m just wondering how durable a bone stock 6s x maxx . I don’t really do hard bashing and I would run 6s.
Yeah it should be able to hold up on 6s…..as long as you’re not bashing it too hard
@@RCKnockout found one in my state.bone stock for 550.00 is that a good price for a decent used x maxx 6s?
@@keithhernandez4319 I honestly don’t know what the trending prices are right now
@@RCKnockout so I found a x maxx but needs diffs fixed. Normally is it just a ring gear that needs replaced? Or is it the internal gears? It’s not very old but both diffs are trashed.
@@keithhernandez4319 usually it’s gonna be the ring and pinion that’ll need replacement
Do you have a link to stand that your using?
No…..not sure if they even make it anymore tbh
I put over size washer on my control arms
Jeff Johnson nice! To keep the pins from popping out?
Yep
Great video 👍!!!!!!
Thanks! 😉
Plz answer what stand did you use for your xmaxx in this video
I can’t remember. I bought it on Amazon a few years ago
@@RCKnockout ok thanks
@@Seanboatfishing no problem 😉
RC Knockout do you think the Leopard hobby 5882 1360 KV motor would do just as good as the 5892? Bashing/ speed runs thanks for the input!
You don't have an aluminum front upper bulkhead???
bro the solders 😂 i laughed out loud
Understandable lol 😂
Great recommendations! Where do I get a front bumper like that??
Arthurs you might be able to find one on EBay or Amazon but your best bet is to go to T-Bone Racing’s website. I think the bumper cost $40-45.
Don't waste your money. It'll good you back from flipping and it can strip the screws out of the bottom of your bulkhead.
how's Integy's quality these days? i remember them having kind of a terrible reputation for their aluminum parts a few years back.
It’s hit and miss. I think most of the aluminum parts are tough. The fitment or lack there Of has been the main issue I’ve encountered with Integy in the past though
Lmaoo why so many dislikes ? This is awesome. Love your energy bro
Thanks man!
I WANT ONE!!!
RPM and Gorilla tape in the right areas is plenty beefy for me.
Which rpm parts?
@@spencerk3365 A arms, hub carriers and steering blocks. Traxxas makes really good heavy replacements as good as rpm too.
What shocks are those
Integy….not sure if they make them anymore
very cool!
Thanks!
Where did you get that stand you have your Xmaxx on. Thanks
I honestly cannot remember. I bought this years ago. Maybe on Ebay? 🤔
How long is the run time before you have to charge the batteries
Usually at least 15-20 minutes sometime more depending on how hard I am on the throttle lol 😂
Just a quick question, in the beginning of the video you said you were putting the max 6 esc, but later said you were running the max5. Which one do you actually run? Tyia. Just making sure I get the right one.
hi can you send me a link on where to buy the t bone racing front bumper for xmaxx
The only place I know that has them is the tbone Racing website. But they’re sold out of the bumper that I have. They might have a second type of bumper available for the Xmaxx though. You’ll have to check into it.
I would rather buy a rig more suitable for bashing rather than spend thousands on a x-maxx. Too many other brands out there that offer more for less money.
RC CHAOS Like what??
Like arrma? I have 3 kratons and my buddy at work has a xmaxx and it is always broke. Don't get me wrong I own 7 traxxas rcs but I kinda was disappointed with the x maxx that just my opinion and ya know what they say about that! What is the msrp on a xmaxx no days?
Josh Herrman not sure if you’re talking about the 1/8 scale Kraton? If so, I wouldn’t put that in the same category as an Xmaxx. If I did compare Traxxas to Arrma though, It does seem like Traxxas parts are much more affordable than the Arrma parts so it’s cheaper to fix when ya break. That’s an advantage. We all got personal preference though
@@RCKnockout im talking about the 1/5 k8s. There cheaper to buy buy seems like less breakage to me. They both have there advantages and disadvantages in my eyes.
Josh Herrman yeah I’ve never owned a Kraton 8s but I’m sure they both have their pros and cons
I've broken both bulkheads with no upgraded parts. 😕😕😕
That’s highly unfortunate 😕
@@RCKnockout yep!! All plastic still but I work the Maxx hard. It's 3 years old and the esc has been replaced earlier this year and just burned up the original motor. I've replaced countless plastic lol.
I'm currently upgrading my 4x4 Stampede to an XO-PEDE. It's has the Castle Sidewinder 4 combo as well and I run it on 3s.
@@theinfiniteanomaly4364 nice man! So it’s a Maxx or an Xmaxx?
@@RCKnockout it's an Xmaxx... forgot about the Maxx they make. 😅😅😅
@@RCKnockout once I burn up or get the opportunity I'll upgrade the Xmaxx motor to the Castle XLX2 combo. The power that system has is amazing!!
Great videos by the way!
How much hotter does the first one run?
It doesn’t really run all that hot. I mainly run that one on road though. It’s a pretty hd system
What is that stand caller
Nice looking xxmaxx
Paul Clancy thanks 😊
Tires and a pinion change.
Yeah gearing up is definitely helpful
If I spend 1000 dollars why do I have to upgrade?
You don’t have to upgrade. Some of these parts are just more prone to failing
@@RCKnockout I just want to bash not fix lols.
@@allywilkeforsenate unfortunately there is no such thing as an indestructible rc. Especially if you’re jumping stuff they’re all gonna break. Didn’t matter what brand or how much it cost. Some of the cheap plastic stuff is easier to break though than the better quality plastics
NICE 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks
Appreciate the honesty and seems like you have learned a lot of what not to do/buy but you lost me at the battery adapter plugs when you said you don't like to solder. You said it came with the plugs already but you can clearly see heat shrink over a deans to traxxas plug. Soldering is not that hard and you are losing out on performance. The more connectors you run, the more resistance, heat build up and energy loss you will see.
Yeah I’ve learned a lot. I’m not sure what esc you’re referring to? It might be running an adapter but the deans connector is already presoldered. I’ve had nothing but issues trying to solder. I’m not sure if my soldering iron isn’t getting hot enough or what the issue is?
@@RCKnockout the max 6 @ 14:50
@@aarona3228 yes those deans plugs are soldered on. If I have adapters on it’s because I was running trx plugged batteries at the time
You lost me at "Integy"
Someone by the name RC Traxxas is replying on your channel to comments left by people saying they have won something and to DM them. Not sure if you knew that. Just fyi
Thanks for letting me know
good video
John Gantner thank you 😊
Cant get enough Xmaxx videos! Would Love to see those trucks running and Jumping! Yes Im an Xmaxx addict. Lol
John Gantner you’ll only see one of those jumping lol 😂
Has anyone ever broken anything by upgrading the steering rods?
I’ve upgraded mine to aluminum but it might make the steering bellcrank more likely to break. I’m not sure because I have an aluminum steering bellcrank. Usually when you upgrade one thing it’s the next weakest thing that will break
RC Knockout ahh so it’s like a train of having to upgrade if u do upgrade it. I love my Xmaxx I just wish it didn’t look so toygrade sometimes
@@adamcantryn4951 it doesn’t perform toy grade though. Still to this day it’s my favorite rc. When you combine the size, speed, capability, cheap part replacements and ease of maintenance. I don’t think anything has gotten close to touching it. If anyone does make something better it’ll probably be Traxxas themselves
RC Knockout thats exactly why I like the Xmaxx whatever traxxas was thinking they were thinking good
@@adamcantryn4951 yep totally agree!
Yes, the stock servo and electronics are very frustrating.You gotta get rid of them. max six is just more sensible The five doesn't give you any benefit
The stock esc and servo aren’t that great but the stock motor is really good…I agree, the Max 6 is the way to go when upgrading
Why do people put aluminum arms and other metal parts on their rc cars....its expensive and doesn't help with durability at all...aluminum arms just transfer impact shock to other parts of the car that are weaker...or worse impact shock bends or warps the expensive aluminum...now you wasted money...plastic is best...it absorbs impact shock and its cheap to replace... metal parts should only be in the drive line...
Not sure if you watched the entire video? I explain all about that in the video
A lot of parts on my UDR are aluminum and it's only broke three times. Stripped rear diff gear, burned out ESC, and broke an outer drive pin on my rear axle. I use my UDR for baja style driving but I have jumped it a few times at a pretty rediculous height. Aluminum isn't bad at all if used in the proper way.
subscribed
Thanks! 😉
When i bought my xmaxx, the servo was weak, not stripped and when i tear it down, it smelt like mold fish...disgusting
So it didn’t actually break then?
@@RCKnockout no, it just was weak and when i got it, it was already weak...idk what happen, i think my servo burned out
@@elicopter_go_brr oh….well an upgraded servo is a good mod to do
Plastic bashers bro. And 45 or 50 top speed is more than enough. Unless you are Rich Duperbash!. But he runs Arma
Most situations that’s true. Some people like more speed though lol 😂
Aluminum suspension arms is bad idea for bashing.
I'm judging but you will learn there wasn't enough Flux
At least you’re honest lol…Is that the same as Flux Paste? I used a ton of that….it was like the solder was wicking away from the wire
Dude I like your ideas but the stock tires are garbage and tear apart period
Thanks man! They definitely have a threshold. If you cross the threshold they will tear open. I still believe they’re the best for bashing though. It’s when you have the throttle pinned you have to worry a little bit about them exploding
Is there a part 2?
Im confused bro, you basically said keep everything stock and if your esc goes out get a Max6.... Got it..... Was a good video though bro.
Thinking about getting one, check my channel though as I have been an Arrma guy for a while 😎🤣😂
I don’t know if there’s gonna be a part two or not? Depends on if I break more stuff and have to upgrade it
@@RCKnockout ok, just checking bro, so basically your saying that most things are good to leave stock, maybe get a Max6, I also know that RPM makes. Hubs and bearings that most say are essential. And upgraded pinion and Spur gears for strength 👍
Looks like you unfortunately spent a lot of money on things you don't reccomend.... Tough $$ lessons
@@3SonsRC yeah I would probably agree that the rear hub carriers are a weak point. Upgrading the Servo is a big one in my mind. Ya live ya learn I guess lol 😂
@@RCKnockout new Subscriber BTW, I'm more an Arrma🚀🚀🚀😎 guy but seriously considering getting an Xmaxx, I respect both camps.... They both have strengths for sure, Arrma's tend to handle better, can go bigger and better air control, while traxxas are SUPER durable out the box (Arrma's are Tough but not as tough as Traxxas stock) and have more Monster Truck style Bashers which I'm very interested in to round out my collection of RC's
Ok nevermind, you just explained it. 🤭
I must disagree... The less aluminum the better... Plastic flexes and goes back to form...way more durable... Metals just break plus add weight.... Cool video... But I have one of the best xmaxxs period check my build and channel 🍻
Metal arms? Noooooo never again
Yep….never again…..maybe for a shelf queen….not for bashing though
Bulkeads are very weak on Xmaxx and majn cause for 90 oercent of problems in these trucks. So many so called ‘upgrades’ yet NOBODY makes a upgrade bullhead for Xmaxx. Stress when leanding warps them and they all crack in sxact same spot.
Finalthe Vitavon dudes making a aluminum bulkhead but its over $600 and all the idiots talking it down and instead buying fancy looking wheels
I’ve broken a couple bulkheads…it’s only happened to me in cold weather when I run right into something…its always been the front bulkhead I believe
Lol, you list all these upgrades to make the best basher....then you say after each one oh this isn't necessary for a good basher... lol just leave it stick then! Replace things as they break. Not before. "If it ain't broke dont fix it"
too heavy
Show off, dnt do its( that you might actually do), plus showing u the best😂😂😅🤣....
Traxxas all plastic
Yes Bobby plastic is the best material for overall durability
You're running metal arms all round lmao your joking right biggest mistake you can ever make,they don't belong on any basher
U didn’t watch the video man. I explained all of that in the video.