Well I'll throw my hat in the ring. I've been a ham since 1978 and I'm now kinda sorta retired. (I'm 62) but now that I have time I'm slowly getting serious about troubleshooting my equipment. I've got some older test equipment I've slowly been accumulating (antique like me). I do enjoy watching your videos and now that I've time I'm starting to learn something!. I was in the cell/broadcast tower construction industry and my knowledge gained in the amateur radio world did me well when I started troubleshooting broadcast/cell antenna systems. Keep up the good work!
I have just bought one of these and it didn't work on Functions 1 and 2 but did work on Function 3. Functions 1 and 2 showed continually varying data. The seller offered a big discount rather than return so I agreed as I think it can be repaired. What I notice is that the input board cannot be removed unless it is un-soldered from the BNC sockets but to get to the pads you first have to remove the two metal casing shields - mine has one above and below the input board. Since the input board was pushed too far forward the shields were left like an open clam and only soldered at the rear location. When I finally took them off I could un-solder the input board. This is very problematic. I see on some other models that the input board is located in the main case and connected to the sockets by coax - a much more sensible arrangement. I found the schematic online as you have shown in the video but it is unreadable. I have checked the input board diodes, transistors etc but nothing seems to be defective. I now need to try and repair the unit. Since it works in Function 3 I suspect something is wrong on the input board. 1. Does anyone have a better schematic? 2. Any clues as to what could be wrong here? 3. Is there any description of how the counter works, I understand the general principles but need to know what this model is doing? Thanks in advance. UPDATE AFTER FIX Schematic has A and B channels reversed. Installed coax to move input board back about 20mm. Identified all IC's and transistors, connectors. Checked all components on input board, no defects founds. Used oscilloscope to trace the signal back to the PIC on the main board, all looked ok. No obvious defect found. Used FY3200S to generate 4V signal 1MHz to 7MHz. At some point the readings started being correct, not sure what I did to fix it. Shields were then closed. Basically - Function 2 and 3 for Channel A only, Function 1 for Channel B only. Any other combination gives random readings .When no signal or input shorted you get random readings! The manual says so too. But when you apply a signal the device works correctly. This is not a sane instrument.
I've got this counter also on my bench, and like yours the secured area was totally open on the opposite side on the BNC connectors, and touched the potmeter contacts. so the counter was running crazy. Got the secured area soldered on the pcb. Had to finetune the counter and ready. Pretty good counter for the money, although the owner brought it over as a gift. So it's now between the rest of my gear. Thx
I'd love that counter. I Was a bit surprised by the random soldering with virtually all the resistors at weird angles on the board but I suppose that's what you get when working to a price point with, I guess, unskilled labour. Nice fix.
Thanks Buddy. As an old man getting back in the Ham radio and electronics I enjoy all your vids and you have refreshed my memory and enjoyment of the hobby. Keep up the great vids. Carl
Thank you for the excellent video. I have also had this device for several years. Unfortunately, my article was not very accurate from the start. Since I am not nearly as well prepared, I calibrated it as follows: I bought a used GPS module "NAVMAN Jupiter 21" on Ebay for about 10 € and a suitable antenna for about 5 €. This results in an atomic 1 s TTL pulse with very small jitter, which I used to calibrate the gate time with the trimmer near the crystal furnace. Unfortunately, the adjustment range of the trimmer was not enough. I had to swap the 22pF parallel capacitor for 12pF, then it went wonderfully. Now the counter is accurate to the last digit.
It's amazing how new equipment can have such problems and that they can be so simple to fix to those who are careful observers. Nice job as usual. Sure, I'd like to have a counter that goes that high. Enjoy watching your videos!
A simple repair - one very obvious fault and another not so obvious, but both easily fixed ... once they've been located. It's a nice bit of kit that would suit many a hobbyist's bench.
That ranked nowhere on my mental list of possible problems. At least it was a quick fix! Thanks for the video Buddy, that counter would make a great addition to my growing electronics bench.
Assembly error yes. Quality control fail. Not sure how that even made it out the door like that. Doesn't look like a bad counter for the price. Should make a great starter counter for someone now that it's working correctly.
I agree how it could had made it out the door. Perhaps the short circuit did not occur till shipped? At least it was an easy fix. Thanks for stopping by Mike.
Would also have been a nice little repair project for someone, in need for a counter. Btw, if I by any luck and chance for once in my life actually got to win this, I might consider to pass it on to MikesRadioRepair :)
Dennis Andersen LOL, don't need anymore counters. Shoot, I have been sending equipment to Buddy by the box full. The Leader counter he has came from me.
I know the leader counter came from you, time you get some good high quality equipment from china. You probably have some begging for equipment. But then again, if you really don't want it, I might consider to pass it on to TRXBench instead. LOL.
Dennis Andersen My Agilent on another bench goes up to 20GHz. I think I have somewhere around 25 counters. 🤤 That's why I started giving some of them away. Same reason I sent him a huge box of VTVM multimeters. I had acquired over 50 and was running out of room.
Well I'll be. I was having the exact problem with mine. I got it at a pawn shop for 40$ so I risked it. Both cans are lifted on mine. I'm so glad I found your video. Too bad I can't attach a picture!
Great Fix! Where I work, I'm always bringing engineers out on the floor for design flaws. To much cut and paste with the computer programs. Thanks for the video.
I got an AA degree in electronics back when I was about 20. Now that I am retired I am taking classes in electronics to catch up on the new technology. I am slowly accumulating my stock of measurement instruments. That looks like it would be a great addition. I enjoy your detailed explanations on your videos.
Good deal on the catch up Gilbert. I never had any formal education in the field, just something I picked up when I was young. Thanks for the kind words.
Enjoyed the repair video. The high frequency option would be a plus. Would appreciate my entry in your contest. Kudos to Bangood, I have ordered from them in the past and have had good results.
Not a bad counter for the price, need to update the vendor on the problem of leaving the resistor up off the board. The board looks like it could be from old stock and needed the input circuit changed for the new counter. Looks great after the repair.
Thank you kindly for your video. I also have this frequency counter, I reseated the top and bottom of the metal casings and re-soldered them. The top metal half of the case was not shorting out the resistor like you showed in your video. My problem is the counter is quite a bit off frequency. Closer on the low bands and further from center on the higher bands. Quite possibly an issue with the crystal oscillator.
I got this one from a friend last week, it counts like random nummering, not the signal I feed, now I've seen this video, I'm pretty sure I also have to open it and trace where it goes wrong. Thanks for this review/ repair. And I keep in mind it's just cheap stuff. But it will do the time when I'm finished with it.
Thanks for this video Buddy, it’s probably the only piece of test gear I haven’t had apart.LOL I’ve got several counters and this one is always spot on. You keep all that cold weather over there mate, I think we got to 32F for about 30mins once this winter. Also only one day it never got above 20 C. You can’t beat the weather here in Queensland Australia. Take care Buddy.
Yes Sir Nice repair job. I would be tickled to use that counter for a few years till time to pass it on to another deserving tech. I've been using my leader LDC 822 since back in that day. Keep thinking I'll get around to upgrading that unit but there's always something else like one of the daughters prom dresses that requires more than what I have. Thanks for all your great vids.
I've been trying to find a decent counter for cheap, I'd like to give this one a try. It looks like a winner. Such an awesome thing you do with the giveaways like this... I'd hate to be one of the 2 miserable souls who gave this video a dislike.
Hi Buddy! Good to see you back! Nice find and repair of the counter and explanation of the assembly error. I learn a lot just by following your line of reasoning. You wound have been a good detective. Could use the counter. Hurry back if you can! Dr. Stan KZ8G
I like the style of your videos.Very easy to follow and understand. Nice video quality. 4:30am! 32 degrees! Better you than this FL. boy. keep up the great work and thanks for all the great information.
Thanks for that nice comment Steve. I am glad you like the style of my videos. Yes 32 and below freezing this morning. Brrr. I need to move to Florida.
I wonder if the assembler dragged the bottom shield across the cap adjacent to the shorted diodes, causing them to malfunction with a voltage spike. I don't see how the resistor being shorted could effect the diodes. As always, I enjoy watching your videos.
Bought some things from Banggood, they have been very good to deal with. Looks as though they might need to sharpen their quality control. Board stuffers can get get pretty sloppy.
Buddy, they do have some cheap interesting items, but as you demonstrated they have very good customer service. Glad it was a somewhat easy fix. QC must have overloaded the front-end trying to get it to count?? Where I work, we have quality checks by 4 or 5 different employees and we still occasionally have quality returns.
This is a really brilliant video. I was concerned that I had bought a 'pup'. It does not operate exactly as I would like (tuning organs) but I can see that I can make use of this machine away. I use a Fluke 17B to read frequency but it has only a 4 digit display.Interesting, as you adjusted the LH counter, the display of the RH count increased from 9.999999 to 10.00000 as soon as you applied pressure to the trim.
Banggood is a great site for low cost kits and electronics. This Victor looks like it had some QC issues but otherwise seems to be good value for the money ($80). I would be tempted to replace the front BNCs with front mounting versions if they would fit and go ahead and clean up the front end board and solder down the shield, although looking around my workbench I don't see a single front mounted BNC. As always great video.
I love your channel,have been subscribed for awhile and look forward to your videos. I tinker with a few radios so you really help me learn how to troubleshoot problems. Thanks Don.
Some remarks about the VC3165 and this video: the schematic that goes around on some places (the yellow one) is from the victor VC2000, NOT the VC3165. One difference that is obvious is that channel A and B are interchanged. On the VC2000 channel A is the high frequency (50 mHz - 2.4 GHz), and the low is channel B (.01Hz - 50 MHz). On the VC3165 that is the other way around. You can recognise that partly in the interface of the VC3165 I think, because the mode for channel B is mode 1, and the low frequency mode for channel A is 2 and 3. Confusion. Second remark I want to make is for the input print. Many stories around about bad soldering of the (ground) screening, and I too had one with this problem, but after repairing that, it also had an erratic behaviour on the high frequency channel B. I have replaced the input chip for that, the MB506, a tiny 8 pin chip. And about that chip is another remark I want to make: on the print there are three grounded pads under pin 5, 6, and 7. Pin 6 is one that is used as a switch (together with pin 3 I think) with which a developer can choose the dividing done by the chip (64x or 128x or 256x). When you look close at the 2 pages datasheet of the MB506 (Fujitsu), you are able to note that TWO times it is said that if a divider choice demands that a pin is low (see truth table for the divider), that that pin should be kept floating, and NOT put to ground. So pin 6 then should be kept floating, and not soldered to its pad.Another difference between the VC2000 and VC3165 is that on channel B (50MHz - 2.4GHz) they let out the two diodes to protect against high input Voltages. I guess that is done for more sensitivity, but that means that the input chip can be damaged above about 5V. I will try if using a few diodes (1n4148) in series (for both diode pads, already on the print) will do no harm to the signal. A 1N4148 has only 4 pF capacitance, so a few in series will be below 1pF, and should be no problem..... I hope. Sorry for the long comment 😏
Well.... That explains between work and your project for the wife why you haven't been out here,,, by the way good fix I can see the potential problem the Resistor so high off the board.... Good QC on the engineering department!! 🤔
I would love to have that frequency counter. I have wanted to create a bench to work on electronics and a counter would be a great start. Always enjoy watching your videos regardless of whether I win it or not, and thanks again.
I have two of these counters. They both read accurately when a typical signal is applied. But…..both show Radom numbers with no signal applied and/or inputs grounded. Why is this considered normal or OK by the manufacturer?
I would certainly use one on my test bench. I have some higher end ones, but that is not always what you need. Just curious, can it be DC powered for portable use?
Love your videos Buddy! Don't need the counter though. Do need a scope lol mine died today! Will have a look at it in the next couple days. Keep it up I've learned alot from you.
I must confess, I feel kind of slimy entering the giveaway, with this being the first video of yours I've seen. However, I plan on investigating further, and expect that your channel will be added to my regular watch list.
Hi Pal. Yes they are pretty stable and spot on when calibrated. No txco installed. The crystal and components are mounted in a shielded box though. Would not be hard to install one.
Hi Buddy, I wonder what the time base frequency was. Would be a great mod to add a BNC on the back and use a rubidium or GPS standard. Interesting how some of the resistors had one end elevated. The only time I saw this done intentionally was to provide a test point. Great video. Of course they all are !
Hi Todd, I did not measure the time base but will in a future vid. The problem about adding that jack is the reference runs at 12 MHz instead of 10.Doable yes. Thanks my friend
Is the contest still on? I've been looking at one of these since I bought my Galaxy 5 digit freq counter from Fee-Pay, and when I got it, the 5th digit doesn't work!!! I'm also looking to build a cheap 20+ watt dummy load with a modulation lamp (like the ones you see on Fee-Pay, but handles more power) for my side-band radios...
Nice video ! they are really not that bad for the money and you can set them up against a GPS disciplined oscillator. Mine had a cold solder join on the large electrolytic cap that would cause the unit to get flaky after warming up. The bottom line for $90 its a nice meter if you are a tinker.
Hey Buddy, As always, thank you so much for all the time you spend putting these educational and entertaining videos together! I continue to learn more from you each time I watch your videos. I'm just starting to get my hobby lab put together and have been very blessed to be able to purchase a few used pieces of equipment and a new Weller soldering station. I would love to receive the frequency counter to help me start working on my Yeasu FT107M. Thanks again and 73, Heath N4TWT
Hello ! Nice Video, as usual. I think they've just pushed and squashed the resistor and they don't test the equipment after assembly. That's how among other things they get those cheap prices. I wonder if even not being "lab grade" this would be good enough for servicing amateur radio equipment? I've been thinking about getting one like that or similar. 73 and keep up the good work !
Hi Alton, Just picked up one of these counters and looks like it has same problem with the shielding grounding out? I know you did this video over a year ago but was wanting to know what Diode did you use when you replaced the two of them? Looks like this counter is sold under 5 different labels and found mine in a open box, claiming it does not work. I need to desolder the shield and BNC connectors but it has the exact same display crazy display. Thanks for doing this video, as a hobby guy it pointed me in right direction. Al “73”
Very nice video Buddy, I noticed that victor did not ground the center mains connector and that seems to be a common problem with other Chinese equipment. Otherwise it looks like a very stable counter for the price. I could use one on my bench. I have been learning a lot from your videos. Keep up the good work. I have subscribed some time ago.
Hi Andrew, that would depend on the signal source you are working on. Of course the lower the level the better. Sensitivity is not that great on this one, but a pre-amp would solve that.
Hi, Received one just yesterday and Channel A isn't working like yours. I'm going to return it or try to repair it myself. If I decide to repair it proving it has the same resistor short and diode shorts as yours, what type of replacement diodes did you use? Also, does this counter need a hardwired connection to whatever the frequency source is in order to display the frequency? Thank you.
Buddy I have the same counter with the same problems, Please tell me what are the values of the 2 diodes you changed so I can repair mine. Wow I knew if I waited for you to test one out that I would have a solution to my problem. Thanks a lot and guess their quality control is lacking but if we can repair them so much better.
I know its an old video.. But I have my Yitensen 3165 version.. Yes it's input shields were miss-aligned also. I notched the display board for better clearance so it could be pulled without unsoldering input board from the bnc's. Not happy about 7 digit display at 36mhz.. my TS430s pll ref is 36.000000 +/- 10hz. and was reading arount 35.985...
Hi Cliff and thanks. The mat you saw in the video is just tool box liner. Cane\\me from Sears. Very light weight and perfect for protecting units you are working on. I have been using this for years and spray it with anti static spray. Link below
Just getting started in cb and ham radio. I was looking to buy a frequency counter but the price for a good one is a little bit too much for someone retired and on a fixed income.What is the best handheld model at a reasonable price?
Well, no matter what, it's still a quality control problem. And pretty bad mounting of parts. But as you say, it is what it is :) Thanks for another good video :)
That is true Dennis. The designers need to remember to change things around a bit due to unskilled assemblers. That way the mistakes are minimum. Thanks for commenting.
Hi Buddy, I have been looking at those counters for awhile and was wondering if they were any good. I mostly repair tube type equipment so I don't need a lab quality anything! Thanks for sharing and please put me into the drawing.
I would like one of these high freq capable counters! It looks like they cost reduced and removed the protection diodes on channel A, D1 and D2 are missing!
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
This give a way has ended
It is SO much fun to watch an expert like you in action. Thanks for bringing us along. I always look forward to your next video.
Well I'll throw my hat in the ring. I've been a ham since 1978 and I'm now kinda sorta retired. (I'm 62) but now that I have time I'm slowly getting serious about troubleshooting my equipment.
I've got some older test equipment I've slowly been accumulating (antique like me). I do enjoy watching your videos and now that I've time I'm starting to learn something!. I was in the cell/broadcast tower construction industry and my knowledge gained in the amateur radio world did me well when I started troubleshooting broadcast/cell antenna systems. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for sharing Wayne.
I have just bought one of these and it didn't work on Functions 1 and 2 but did work on Function 3. Functions 1 and 2 showed continually varying data. The seller offered a big discount rather than return so I agreed as I think it can be repaired. What I notice is that the input board cannot be removed unless it is un-soldered from the BNC sockets but to get to the pads you first have to remove the two metal casing shields - mine has one above and below the input board. Since the input board was pushed too far forward the shields were left like an open clam and only soldered at the rear location. When I finally took them off I could un-solder the input board. This is very problematic. I see on some other models that the input board is located in the main case and connected to the sockets by coax - a much more sensible arrangement.
I found the schematic online as you have shown in the video but it is unreadable. I have checked the input board diodes, transistors etc but nothing seems to be defective. I now need to try and repair the unit. Since it works in Function 3 I suspect something is wrong on the input board.
1. Does anyone have a better schematic?
2. Any clues as to what could be wrong here?
3. Is there any description of how the counter works, I understand the general principles but need to know what this model is doing?
Thanks in advance.
UPDATE AFTER FIX
Schematic has A and B channels reversed. Installed coax to move input board back about 20mm. Identified all IC's and transistors, connectors. Checked all components on input board, no defects founds. Used oscilloscope to trace the signal back to the PIC on the main board, all looked ok. No obvious defect found. Used FY3200S to generate 4V signal 1MHz to 7MHz. At some point the readings started being correct, not sure what I did to fix it. Shields were then closed. Basically - Function 2 and 3 for Channel A only, Function 1 for Channel B only. Any other combination gives random readings .When no signal or input shorted you get random readings! The manual says so too. But when you apply a signal the device works correctly. This is not a sane instrument.
Nice repair. Surprised to see through hole parts on a new machine. I wouldn't mind a nice new counter. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks Joseph. It is an old design and been on the market for a while.
I've got this counter also on my bench, and like yours the secured area was totally open on the opposite side on the BNC connectors, and touched the potmeter contacts. so the counter was running crazy. Got the secured area soldered on the pcb. Had to finetune the counter and ready. Pretty good counter for the money, although the owner brought it over as a gift. So it's now between the rest of my gear. Thx
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I'd love that counter. I Was a bit surprised by the random soldering with virtually all the resistors at weird angles on the board but I suppose that's what you get when working to a price point with, I guess, unskilled labour. Nice fix.
You are probably correct on that. This is what we see in cheaper products. At least we could fix this one. Thanks
Thanks Buddy. As an old man getting back in the Ham radio and electronics I enjoy all your vids and you have refreshed my memory and enjoyment of the hobby. Keep up the great vids. Carl
Thanks Carl for your comment. Always glad to help.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have also had this device for several years. Unfortunately, my article was not very accurate from the start. Since I am not nearly as well prepared, I calibrated it as follows: I bought a used GPS module "NAVMAN Jupiter 21" on Ebay for about 10 € and a suitable antenna for about 5 €. This results in an atomic 1 s TTL pulse with very small jitter, which I used to calibrate the gate time with the trimmer near the crystal furnace. Unfortunately, the adjustment range of the trimmer was not enough. I had to swap the 22pF parallel capacitor for 12pF, then it went wonderfully. Now the counter is accurate to the last digit.
It's amazing how new equipment can have such problems and that they can be so simple to fix to those who are careful observers. Nice job as usual. Sure, I'd like to have a counter that goes that high. Enjoy watching your videos!
Agreed. Thanks and good luck
A simple repair - one very obvious fault and another not so obvious, but both easily fixed ... once they've been located. It's a nice bit of kit that would suit many a hobbyist's bench.
Looks like a typical issue, the second unit was a bit better than the first one. Thanks
Always nice to see a linear power supply in test equipment. Nice fix. Karl
That ranked nowhere on my mental list of possible problems. At least it was a quick fix! Thanks for the video Buddy, that counter would make a great addition to my growing electronics bench.
Yep, simple problem easily fixed. Thanks
Assembly error yes. Quality control fail. Not sure how that even made it out the door like that. Doesn't look like a bad counter for the price. Should make a great starter counter for someone now that it's working correctly.
I agree how it could had made it out the door. Perhaps the short circuit did not occur till shipped? At least it was an easy fix. Thanks for stopping by Mike.
Would also have been a nice little repair project for someone, in need for a counter. Btw, if I by any luck and chance for once in my life actually got to win this, I might consider to pass it on to MikesRadioRepair :)
Dennis Andersen
LOL, don't need anymore counters. Shoot, I have been sending equipment to Buddy by the box full. The Leader counter he has came from me.
I know the leader counter came from you, time you get some good high quality equipment from china. You probably have some begging for equipment. But then again, if you really don't want it, I might consider to pass it on to TRXBench instead. LOL.
Dennis Andersen
My Agilent on another bench goes up to 20GHz. I think I have somewhere around 25 counters. 🤤 That's why I started giving some of them away. Same reason I sent him a huge box of VTVM multimeters. I had acquired over 50 and was running out of room.
Well I'll be. I was having the exact problem with mine. I got it at a pawn shop for 40$ so I risked it. Both cans are lifted on mine.
I'm so glad I found your video. Too bad I can't attach a picture!
Great Fix! Where I work, I'm always bringing engineers out on the floor for design flaws. To much cut and paste with the computer programs. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Mike, we do that quite a bit also Show them paper works differently lol.
excellent troubleshooting and repair video, as a retired two way tech and now a cb and ham repair hobbyist that would be great on my bench
Thanks John
I got an AA degree in electronics back when I was about 20. Now that I am retired I am taking classes in electronics to catch up on the new technology. I am slowly accumulating my stock of measurement instruments. That looks like it would be a great addition. I enjoy your detailed explanations on your videos.
Good deal on the catch up Gilbert. I never had any formal education in the field, just something I picked up when I was young. Thanks for the kind words.
Enjoyed the repair video. The high frequency option would be a plus. Would appreciate my entry in your contest. Kudos to Bangood, I have ordered from them in the past and have had good results.
Not a bad counter for the price, need to update the vendor on the problem of leaving the resistor up off the board. The board looks like it could be from old stock and needed the input circuit changed for the new counter. Looks great after the repair.
Agree, this is an old design. Not much has changed since 2009 on it. Thanks
Thank you kindly for your video. I also have this frequency counter, I reseated the top and bottom of the metal casings and re-soldered them. The top metal half of the case was not shorting out the resistor like you showed in your video. My problem is the counter is quite a bit off frequency. Closer on the low bands and further from center on the higher bands. Quite possibly an issue with the crystal oscillator.
I got this one from a friend last week, it counts like random nummering, not the signal I feed, now I've seen this video, I'm pretty sure I also have to open it and trace where it goes wrong. Thanks for this review/ repair. And I keep in mind it's just cheap stuff. But it will do the time when I'm finished with it.
Thanks for this video Buddy, it’s probably the only piece of test gear I haven’t had apart.LOL I’ve got several counters and this one is always spot on. You keep all that cold weather over there mate, I think we got to 32F for about 30mins once this winter. Also only one day it never got above 20 C. You can’t beat the weather here in Queensland Australia.
Take care Buddy.
Cool deal Peter. Always good not to have to take it apart. Yes the cold is upon us now. I hate cold weather. Thanks for the comment
Yes Sir Nice repair job. I would be tickled to use that counter for a few years till time to pass it on to another deserving tech. I've been using my leader LDC 822 since back in that day. Keep thinking I'll get around to upgrading that unit but there's always something else like one of the daughters prom dresses that requires more than what I have. Thanks for all your great vids.
I've been trying to find a decent counter for cheap, I'd like to give this one a try. It looks like a winner. Such an awesome thing you do with the giveaways like this... I'd hate to be one of the 2 miserable souls who gave this video a dislike.
Thanks the kind words. It is not a perfect counter but gets the job done.
I sure enjoy watching your troubleshooting process. Thank you.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Interesting to see Bangood standing behind their product.
Been dealing with them for a few years now. Really great service. Thanks
Another great repair video Buddy. I wouldn't turn this frequency counter down! Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks Larry.
Thanks for the opportunity to win this counter. Great repair...
Looks like a nice little counter. I'd love to have it as my 20 yr old counter died on me. Keep up the good work!
Sorry to hear about your counter. Good luck in the drawing
I am glad to see you back again. Look forward to your homey explanations and valuable teaching.
Thanks Ron.
Hi Buddy! Good to see you back! Nice find and repair of the counter and explanation of the assembly error. I learn a lot just by following your line of reasoning. You wound have been a good detective. Could use the counter. Hurry back if you can! Dr. Stan KZ8G
Thanks Stan. Thanks for stopping in. I need to get busy with videos.
I like the style of your videos.Very easy to follow and understand. Nice video quality. 4:30am! 32 degrees! Better you than this FL. boy. keep up the great work and thanks for all the great information.
Thanks for that nice comment Steve. I am glad you like the style of my videos. Yes 32 and below freezing this morning. Brrr. I need to move to Florida.
Nice fix. It's always nice finding a simple fix. To bad it was a quality control issue. Thanks and keep p the good work. I will be watching.
I wonder if the assembler dragged the bottom shield across the cap adjacent to the shorted diodes, causing them to malfunction with a voltage spike. I don't see how the resistor being shorted could effect the diodes. As always, I enjoy watching your videos.
Wondering the same thing myself. Power must have been applied to cause this.
Bought some things from Banggood, they have been very good to deal with. Looks as though they might need to sharpen their quality control. Board stuffers can get get pretty sloppy.
Yes they are not bad at all. And the unskilled labor does good at time.
Buddy, they do have some cheap interesting items, but as you demonstrated they have very good customer service. Glad it was a somewhat easy fix. QC must have overloaded the front-end trying to get it to count?? Where I work, we have quality checks by 4 or 5 different employees and we still occasionally have quality returns.
Thanks James and I agree. I too work in the quality department for a global company.
Nicely done Buddy. I do not need a counter. Thank you for your time and sharing. 73s Joel
Thanks for watching Joel, good to see you.
Wow! Up there for quality control!
Easy fixes are always satisfying. As always, thorough and informative. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind words.
This is a really brilliant video. I was concerned that I had bought a 'pup'. It does not operate exactly as I would like (tuning organs) but I can see that I can make use of this machine away. I use a Fluke 17B to read frequency but it has only a 4 digit display.Interesting, as you adjusted the LH counter, the display of the RH count increased from 9.999999 to 10.00000 as soon as you applied pressure to the trim.
A 10 turn pot would make calibration easier. Nice little counter. I look on Amazon.
Little late to the party, thanks for the review.
No problem, thanks for watching.
I am very interested in the counter Buddy. The only one I have now is a BK that's a little off.
Banggood is a great site for low cost kits and electronics. This Victor looks like it had some QC issues but otherwise seems to be good value for the money ($80). I would be tempted to replace the front BNCs with front mounting versions if they would fit and go ahead and clean up the front end board and solder down the shield, although looking around my workbench I don't see a single front mounted BNC. As always great video.
Thank you. I have a few of those bnc with the mounting nut on the front. May change them out. Agree not to bad a unit for the price.
Love your videos. Currently collecting junk box parts and test gear to homebrew some ham radio gear and antennas.
Thanks. Keep collecting my friend.
Good to see you back and good review of counter . Yes I could use one . Keep up the good work .
Thanks Mike.
In the schematic, Channel A is actually Channel B and vice versa. I have one of this counters too. Have to check mine. Nice video...
I could use a good, accurate counter. I learn a lot from your videos since I'm entirely self taught at restoring radios!
Thank you.
thank you i also checked ruoshui counter .had same fault so once again thanks all the best
I love your channel,have been subscribed for awhile and look forward to your videos. I tinker with a few radios so you really help me learn how to troubleshoot problems. Thanks Don.
Thanks for that nice reply Don.
Some remarks about the VC3165 and this video: the schematic that goes around on some places (the yellow one) is from the victor VC2000, NOT the VC3165. One difference that is obvious is that channel A and B are interchanged. On the VC2000 channel A is the high frequency (50 mHz - 2.4 GHz), and the low is channel B (.01Hz - 50 MHz). On the VC3165 that is the other way around. You can recognise that partly in the interface of the VC3165 I think, because the mode for channel B is mode 1, and the low frequency mode for channel A is 2 and 3. Confusion.
Second remark I want to make is for the input print. Many stories around about bad soldering of the (ground) screening, and I too had one with this problem, but after repairing that, it also had an erratic behaviour on the high frequency channel B. I have replaced the input chip for that, the MB506, a tiny 8 pin chip. And about that chip is another remark I want to make: on the print there are three grounded pads under pin 5, 6, and 7. Pin 6 is one that is used as a switch (together with pin 3 I think) with which a developer can choose the dividing done by the chip (64x or 128x or 256x). When you look close at the 2 pages datasheet of the MB506 (Fujitsu), you are able to note that TWO times it is said that if a divider choice demands that a pin is low (see truth table for the divider), that that pin should be kept floating, and NOT put to ground. So pin 6 then should be kept floating, and not soldered to its pad.Another difference between the VC2000 and VC3165 is that on channel B (50MHz - 2.4GHz) they let out the two diodes to protect against high input Voltages. I guess that is done for more sensitivity, but that means that the input chip can be damaged above about 5V. I will try if using a few diodes (1n4148) in series (for both diode pads, already on the print) will do no harm to the signal. A 1N4148 has only 4 pF capacitance, so a few in series will be below 1pF, and should be no problem..... I hope.
Sorry for the long comment 😏
Probably already given away, but if not, I wouldn't mind having something like this! Great channel BTW.
Yep, been gone for a while.
Thanks for the review - I could really use a better frequency counter, so "count me in"!
Glad to see you back Buddy hope all is well, did you get your remodel done in your house??
Thanks Aaron. No not as of yet. Still working.
Well.... That explains between work and your project for the wife why you haven't been out here,,, by the way good fix I can see the potential problem the Resistor so high off the board.... Good QC on the engineering department!! 🤔
Another great video! I can certainly use one to align my vintage TS-430S.
Thanks
I would love to have that frequency counter. I have wanted to create a bench to work on electronics and a counter would be a great start. Always enjoy watching your videos regardless of whether I win it or not, and thanks again.
Thanks. It would be a good starter unit. Good luck in the drawing.
I'll be happy to give that counter a good home. Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks for watching
I have two of these counters. They both read accurately when a typical signal is applied. But…..both show Radom numbers with no signal applied and/or inputs grounded. Why is this considered normal or OK by the manufacturer?
I would certainly use one on my test bench. I have some higher end ones, but that is not always what you need. Just curious, can it be DC powered for portable use?
Hi Bill, It could be modified to operate on DC. Thanks
Love your videos Buddy! Don't need the counter though. Do need a scope lol mine died today! Will have a look at it in the next couple days. Keep it up I've learned alot from you.
I would enjoy have an Frequency Counter! Thanks for giving one of them away!
Thanks Jason
Great repair video! Count me in to receive this VC3165!! Thanks
I must confess, I feel kind of slimy entering the giveaway, with this being the first video of yours I've seen.
However, I plan on investigating further, and expect that your channel will be added to my regular watch list.
Dont let that bother you. Have to start somewhere. :)
They look fairly stable, are they using tcxo? Bit of a fail by the person that fitted that resistor!
(I don’t need that counter)
Hi Pal. Yes they are pretty stable and spot on when calibrated. No txco installed. The crystal and components are mounted in a shielded box though. Would not be hard to install one.
Hi Buddy, I wonder what the time base frequency was. Would be a great mod to add a BNC on the back and use a rubidium or GPS standard. Interesting how some of the resistors had one end elevated. The only time I saw this done intentionally was to provide a test point. Great video. Of course they all are !
Hi Todd, I did not measure the time base but will in a future vid. The problem about adding that jack is the reference runs at 12 MHz instead of 10.Doable yes. Thanks my friend
Is the contest still on? I've been looking at one of these since I bought my Galaxy 5 digit freq counter from Fee-Pay, and when I got it, the 5th digit doesn't work!!! I'm also looking to build a cheap 20+ watt dummy load with a modulation lamp (like the ones you see on Fee-Pay, but handles more power) for my side-band radios...
Been over for quite some time. Sorry
Rules for giveaway. Subscribe to this channel. Comment below. That simple.
Great vid!!! Thanks
I totally need a counter!!
I need one.
The Radio Shop I need a counter!
Good luck my friend
Nice video ! they are really not that bad for the money and you can set them up against a GPS disciplined oscillator. Mine had a cold solder join on the large electrolytic cap that would cause the unit to get flaky after warming up. The bottom line for $90 its a nice meter if you are a tinker.
Thanks. They are pretty decent for the money. I upgraded to the 6800 now. 60Mhz
Hi really love your explanation and fault finding techniques, have one the same to repair, where would a copy of circuit diagram be available from?
Hey Buddy, As always, thank you so much for all the time you spend putting these educational and entertaining videos together! I continue to learn more from you each time I watch your videos. I'm just starting to get my hobby lab put together and have been very blessed to be able to purchase a few used pieces of equipment and a new Weller soldering station. I would love to receive the frequency counter to help me start working on my Yeasu FT107M. Thanks again and 73, Heath N4TWT
Heath, So good to hear this comment. Thank you for watching and good luck in the drawing.
Good video looking for a relatively inexpensive counter thanks for the input
Thanks
Nice video. I always enjoy thumbing thru Banggood's site.
Thanks, yes they have a lot of stuff.
thanks for such a useful site, love learning from guys like you and Paul. keep it coming!!
I'd love to have that! I design and build QRP transceivers... with a horrible $5 flea bay counter. haha. Thanks for the videos
Thanks
Hello ! Nice Video, as usual.
I think they've just pushed and squashed the resistor and they don't test the equipment after assembly. That's how among other things they get those cheap prices. I wonder if even not being "lab grade" this would be good enough for servicing amateur radio equipment? I've been thinking about getting one like that or similar.
73 and keep up the good work !
You are most likely correct, turn it on, lights up, ship it. This counter should do anything you need for radio repair.
Hi Alton,
Just picked up one of these counters and looks like it has same problem with the shielding grounding out?
I know you did this video over a year ago but was wanting to know what Diode did you use when you replaced the two of them?
Looks like this counter is sold under 5 different labels and found mine in a open box, claiming it does not work.
I need to desolder the shield and BNC connectors but it has the exact same display crazy display.
Thanks for doing this video, as a hobby guy it pointed me in right direction.
Al “73”
Se substituir o trafo por uma fonte chaveada não melhoraria a estabilidade ?
Bought one of these an quality control on the front end shield is still a problem. Other than that seems sufficient for ham work.
Very nice video Buddy, I noticed that victor did not ground the center mains connector and that seems to be a common problem with other Chinese equipment. Otherwise it looks like a very stable counter for the price. I could use one on my bench. I have been learning a lot from your videos. Keep up the good work. I have subscribed some time ago.
You are correct Donald. No ground to the mains. Good and bad at the same time. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the evaluation. I am getting into repair. What is a good Dbm level for a counter to wrk at?
Hi Andrew, that would depend on the signal source you are working on. Of course the lower the level the better. Sensitivity is not that great on this one, but a pre-amp would solve that.
Long time subscriber, first time commenter. Always informative videos, Buddy. A counter is certainly lacking on my bench.
Hi,
Received one just yesterday and Channel A isn't working like yours. I'm going to return it or try to repair it myself. If I decide to repair it proving it has the same resistor short and diode shorts as yours, what type of replacement diodes did you use? Also, does this counter need a hardwired connection to whatever the frequency source is in order to display the frequency?
Thank you.
Thanks for Video, Mike is right about a Quality control problem. Nice little counter,,
Buddy I have the same counter with the same problems, Please tell me what are the values of the 2 diodes you changed so I can repair mine. Wow I knew if I waited for you to test one out that I would have a solution to my problem. Thanks a lot and guess their quality control is lacking but if we can repair them so much better.
Hi Lyle. You can use iN4148 diodes. That is what was in mine. Hope that helps and thanks for stopping in. Schematic below.
www.electronicspoint.com/attachments/vc3165-jpg.5019/
I know its an old video.. But I have my Yitensen 3165 version.. Yes it's input shields were miss-aligned also. I notched the display board for better clearance so it could be pulled without unsoldering input board from the bnc's. Not happy about 7 digit display at 36mhz.. my TS430s pll ref is 36.000000 +/- 10hz. and was reading arount 35.985...
Thanks Buddy for the video , hope your health is ok.
My best regards Carl.
Thanks you Carl. Doing pretty good and thanks for asking. Just not sleeping good.
Thank you for the video! Where did you found the schematics?
Great job in troubleshooting! Nice video.
nice unit I been looking for a counter on ebay But cant trust any ones any more,, good video
Thanks Dennis. Good luck my friend
Where do you get the non-skid mat you use for your workbench? Thanks for an interesting video!
Hi Cliff and thanks. The mat you saw in the video is just tool box liner. Cane\\me from Sears. Very light weight and perfect for protecting units you are working on. I have been using this for years and spray it with anti static spray. Link below
www.sears.com/craftsman-non-slip-drawer-liner-roll/p-00965514000P#
Thanks!
Just getting started in cb and ham radio. I was looking to buy a frequency counter but the price for a good one is a little bit too much for someone retired and on a fixed income.What is the best handheld model at a reasonable price?
Well, no matter what, it's still a quality control problem. And pretty bad mounting of parts. But as you say, it is what it is :)
Thanks for another good video :)
That is true Dennis. The designers need to remember to change things around a bit due to unskilled assemblers. That way the mistakes are minimum. Thanks for commenting.
Hi Buddy,
I have been looking at those counters for awhile and was wondering if they were any good. I mostly repair tube type equipment so I don't need a lab quality anything! Thanks for sharing and please put me into the drawing.
These should do the job. Just check calibration by beating WWV once in a while and good to do. Thanks
Love your videos and repairs, and yes I could put the counter to use. Keep up the great work.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family Buddy!!
Same to you Aaron. Thanks
Yet another great video Buddy....good job and thats a nice unit by the wat,in my opinion...heck i would make use of one of those for sure!!
Thanks Jeff and good luck
I would like one of these high freq capable counters! It looks like they cost reduced and removed the protection diodes on channel A, D1 and D2 are missing!
In my set too. Same for the one we see in the video.
Great review and very useful video. Where did you get the circuit diagram from?
Thanks. I goggled it and found it on a Chinese website.
Nice video again. I have really enjoyed your bench activities. Keep it up. Thanks
Thanks and I enjoy that you watch them.
Always learn so much from your channel, thank you!
Thanks