Affiliate Links: Here are some links to products we used in this video on amazon in case you want to try this: Diesel Purge: amzn.to/2vKrsMa Blue polyurethane fuel line: amzn.to/2vBnZ2A Paper prefilter (Only for purge): amzn.to/2VSxcOG Correct prefilter to use for driving: amzn.to/2IDok7P Alternate reusable prefilter: amzn.to/2IpunfV Spare screens for the reusable filter above: amzn.to/2TsIY0w Pasta sauce to drink so you can use the can for this: amzn.to/2TsKsYw
Hallo thanx for youre informativ Videos , i try this on my knocking Benz 200 d . IT was very loud Like Metall nailing . I do this directly in the Fuel tank with Diesel . And after 2 time . The noise goes normaly No more knocking and nailing. Very good Stoff frome Germany . I think Its clean self the injektors..Best Stoff ever .
I've heard the valve cover and a tag that is down lower on the IP side of the block indicates a factory reman engine, which is super cool! I'm curious why my engine was replaced, as it has a odd misfire that I've been tracking for years now, comes and goes, I'm still trying to find the root cause, I'm tempted to swap the injection pump now, as I've done everything else I can think of.
Before vs. after seems compelling -- but I suspect that "after" was with the engine fully warmed up (after running on Diesel Purge for 30+ minutes) and the "before" was with a cold engine and thick oil. How good is the "after" with the engine having sat overnight?
I know the after was with a hot engine, the before I'm fairly sure with a look back through my footage was not a cold engine, it may not have been all the way at operating temperature, but was at least not stone cold, probably 60C coolant temp or so. The diesel purge did make a distinct improvement, the car still seems to idle smoother than it did before. It had a bit of a hot lope at times, you'd stop at a stop light and could feel the car rocking gently side to side. That has become nearly imperceptible unless you're really paying attention. With diesel purge being such a strong solvent I'm curious if it cleans off the delivery valves, and barrel/plunger assemblies a little, which could even out the fuel metering and perhaps affect injection pressure and timing per cylinder ever so slightly from 40ish years of crud building up. I should do it again and see if more gunk comes out.
A couple things. Conventional wisdom is that you're supposed to use 2 cans to rev the engine sporadically through the rev range when doing the purge. My OM617 300d came out really filthy but my OM616 240d (W115) was clean. If it did smooth your idle a bit, then I suspect it will improve further with a 2nd larger application.
I did use 2 full cans, the pasta container was large enough that it held both (45oz), I did rev the engine up and down a few times, probably not sweeping through the rpm like I should have. I am going to try it again on either my other 617 or on one of my Cummins and see what happens there. I suspect improvements in smoothness from here I need to address the timing chain conditions and check injection timing next to see how far off spec those are.
Driving it seems exactly the same, I know it definetly didn't hurt anything though, it does always smooth up as it gets warmer, I'm suspicious of the timing being off after all these years and having been run low on oil for an unknown period of time (before I got it, had to swap cam and vac pump, bottom end was all ok though) I'm sure that chain has stretched a lot, but I won't know until I check it I guess
@@trythistv Assuming you've done the valve adjustment, rebuilt the injector nozzles, replaced the primer pump and rebuilt the o-rings in the lift pump, I think your next step would be replacing the spring in the OFV (try stretching the old one by hand a few times to see if it makes a difference before ordering a new one) and then the injection timing. Other than the Auto-RX for compression, I'd recommend a large bottle of Chevron Techron diesel fuel additive for your tank to clean out all the gunk in there.
Yup, I did a valve adjustment with the cam swap, and then checked it a few hundred miles later to make sure it wasn't flattening lobes like the old one. Then about 5k miles later I redid the adjustment as I felt with that much being disturbed it could have settled in. New Firad 314 nozzles, all popping as close as I could get to 2k psi (50 higher than the 1950 psi spec I know), primer pump was replaced when I did the LP rebuild with OE Bosch kit (idk if they're still hard to find now), OFV spring stretched back to somewhere around 28mm. The OFV spring did help cold starts, it always liked to stall when the glow plugs afterglow went off, with the better pressure it usually just stumbles once when they kick off now. I'm making a video on the OFV and testing fuel pressure, because I suspect that is a oft overlooked and critical piece of the fuel system. The cam and IP timing is very soon on my list, I'm reeaaly hoping the shop for my business (boat and jetski mechanic) will be built soon so I can pull the car inside and not have to dodge raindrops when I end up rolling a timing chain in.
I did this on my 2015 Holden Colorado with 250,000kms yesterday. The leftover diesel purge was about the same colour as yours maybe slightly darker so definitely cleaned something. I've seen some videos where the leftover DP is almost black! Did you see any sediment in your inline filter? I was surprised to see how much DP you went through in just 10 min! Mine took 50min to go through around 700mls. I definitely noticed a difference, much quieter and smoother to drive.
It drank it through pretty quickly for sure. I didn't notice much sediment in the inline filter, I've seen much worse than mine as well, I'd say it has to do a lot with how nasty the diesel is in each area. We've got some stations that do not have very good diesel, often dirty, sometimes water contaminated, algae and such. It certainly made a difference in how smooth my car ran, Didn't notice much difference in power but the idle smoothed up a lot. probably from the injector pump running a little smoother, injecting a more even amount of fuel, or at least that is my theory.
Its very nice and informative video. I always admire the people who maintain their old diesel Mercedes Benz. Your fuel line is clean, I was suspicious for air issues when you were connecting your can diesel line but nice to see very next moment you did pump to fill it fuel. Lot of wishes and respect.
Thank you for the kind comment! I do love my old Mercedes, I'm hoping to repaint sometime, as the clearcoat has not fared well in the sun, but we'll get there after I sort out all the little mechanical quirks and get everything up to par!
Very helpful video. Just purchased an 85 300D, and I was about to do a purge. It's hard to see but do you attach the hose to the actual pre-filter or do you bypass the pre-filter and attach directly to the inlet nipple on the injection pump? Thanks
I attached to the little plastic prefilter, its easier, and it prevents any plastic shavings from your container or other grit making it into your lift pump or injection pump. I'm actually replacing an injection pump on one of my work trucks right now because of some grungy diesel I got a tank of, that isn't a fun pricetag 😬
@@trythistv Thanks again. So you put it right onto the pre-filter, correct? I probably need to change out my pre-filter. Should I do that after the purge?
Yes indeed! All the parts have arrived, I just need to film assembling it, then upload it. I'm hoping to have that done in a week or two. Grand total cost should be around $30 for the needed modification including the new 2 micron fuel filter/water separator (It does both, and has a drain, and fits in the stock location)
@@trythistv I would like to see a fix to be able to user both bolts on the filter mount. For the new 2 Micron Big Filter Mod. It would then be then much simpler and reliable. Cant wait to see an update on that setup making it better!
Hey bud I have a question, I have a 79 w116 300sd. Im gonna do the purge. I bought the kit from Kent at mercedessource, his mix instructions are very confusing though. I recieved a can of the actual diesel purge and a quart of hi moly content oil, he says I have to make a mix of veggie oil, diesel and the high moly content oil, but he says nothing about using the purge itself. Do I run purge by itself first, then run the mix? I'm lost
Ok, so kents kit and instructions are a little different, his kit has you run the purge as I show in this video, and then the mix of veggie oil, moly oil and diesel (1 gal veg, 1/2 pint moly, 1/2 pint diesel I believe) through the car, and then after hooking up your stock fuel tank taking the car on a good drive to get everything moving good and blow out any junk that got loosened up during the process So, do the Purge, then the mix, then an italian tuneup. I'm suspicious if any of the molybdenum used in the blend will make it past the filters, so I just do the liquimoly purge product as seen in this video, but I do plan on trying kents method at some point and open up the filters afterward to see if he might be onto something!
It certainly helped I'd say after having driven it a bit since doing this. I'm going to do this same treatment on my one truck that always stumbles and carries on when its first started, even with new injectors it smokes and coughs for a few seconds, then smooths out and runs flawlessly after that, hoping a purge will help it out!
Your fuel system was pretty clean. Usually the return comes out nearly black. I was going to suggest that this is also a good time to change out your prefilter and fuel filter but with how clean it looked coming out of the return, I wouldn't have bothered either. Now go get some Stanadyne Lubricity additive to smooth things out even further. And replace that worn out air filter mount. ;)
Funny thing about that air cleaner mount. I pulled the car into the driveway to make the video, the mount was fine, not rattling at all, I got all the stuff hooked up, and at some point between starting the car on the diesel purge and finishing up the mount must have broke. I keep a few spares because they seem to fail quite often, even with the little metal heat shields. I'll certainly look into the stanadyne, I've heard good things about them as well!
@@trythistv The only place that I've found locally that carries Stanadyne products is AutoZone but of course Amazon has the full range of products. I run the Lubricity additive in my '77 240D and it does make a noticeable difference. I initially started using it due to modern low sulpher diesel. Our engines (OM616 & OM617 alike) were designed when Sulphur was used in pump diesel as a lubricant for the cylinder walls. Low sulpher = low lubricity which can ultimately lead to increased ring wear which leads to loss of compression and on and on it goes.
@@trythistv Mercedessource sells a heavy duty bracket kit that breaks less. The AUTORX I recommended will help reduce vibrations substantially (via compression) and that will also help indirectly.
I'd say it has definitely quieted the car down, and seems to have smoothed it out a bit too. I'd do it for sure especially if you haven't done major fuel system stuff like I had.
On this specific car (W123 body diesels at least) There is no electric fuel pump or pump in the tank at all. There is just the lift pump on the side of the engine, which is what I connected the inlet hose to, so no fuse or relay to pull, I'm not sure if the later year bodies got electric pumps or not, but I know at least up to model year 85 the diesels did not.
@@trythistv thanks man, I think mine has a lift pump on the side of the engine too, no fuse or harness in the back of the vehicle, I’ll try your method see how it goes, issue I’m having is my vehicle is consuming way too much diesel.
If its the same engine, I'm certain they never used a electric pump. I believe the 603/606 type engines also did not, but I KNOW the 617 and 616 engines use the engine mounted pump like in this video
@@trythistv Hi again, Thanks for your help, I’m having a nightmare with my vehicle, basically I’ve got 2 pipes going to the fuel filter,1 supply line and the other return line, the return line I presume is where the fuel comes out of , can I just put those 2 pipes which were connected to the fuel filter into the diesel purge?
Affiliate Links:
Here are some links to products we used in this video on amazon in case you want to try this:
Diesel Purge: amzn.to/2vKrsMa
Blue polyurethane fuel line: amzn.to/2vBnZ2A
Paper prefilter (Only for purge): amzn.to/2VSxcOG
Correct prefilter to use for driving: amzn.to/2IDok7P
Alternate reusable prefilter: amzn.to/2IpunfV
Spare screens for the reusable filter above: amzn.to/2TsIY0w
Pasta sauce to drink so you can use the can for this: amzn.to/2TsKsYw
Hallo thanx for youre informativ Videos , i try this on my knocking Benz 200 d . IT was very loud Like Metall nailing . I do this directly in the Fuel tank with Diesel . And after 2 time . The noise goes normaly No more knocking and nailing. Very good Stoff frome Germany . I think Its clean self the injektors..Best Stoff ever .
Did you know that the seam along the top side of the valve cover means replacement Mercedes engine?
I've heard the valve cover and a tag that is down lower on the IP side of the block indicates a factory reman engine, which is super cool! I'm curious why my engine was replaced, as it has a odd misfire that I've been tracking for years now, comes and goes, I'm still trying to find the root cause, I'm tempted to swap the injection pump now, as I've done everything else I can think of.
I found it works better to shut it down after one bottle, let sit for a day, then finish, it works great
You know that makes sense. Letting the solvents sit in the IP overnight would break down any deposits even better!
Before vs. after seems compelling -- but I suspect that "after" was with the engine fully warmed up (after running on Diesel Purge for 30+ minutes) and the "before" was with a cold engine and thick oil. How good is the "after" with the engine having sat overnight?
I know the after was with a hot engine, the before I'm fairly sure with a look back through my footage was not a cold engine, it may not have been all the way at operating temperature, but was at least not stone cold, probably 60C coolant temp or so.
The diesel purge did make a distinct improvement, the car still seems to idle smoother than it did before.
It had a bit of a hot lope at times, you'd stop at a stop light and could feel the car rocking gently side to side. That has become nearly imperceptible unless you're really paying attention.
With diesel purge being such a strong solvent I'm curious if it cleans off the delivery valves, and barrel/plunger assemblies a little, which could even out the fuel metering and perhaps affect injection pressure and timing per cylinder ever so slightly from 40ish years of crud building up.
I should do it again and see if more gunk comes out.
A couple things. Conventional wisdom is that you're supposed to use 2 cans to rev the engine sporadically through the rev range when doing the purge.
My OM617 300d came out really filthy but my OM616 240d (W115) was clean. If it did smooth your idle a bit, then I suspect it will improve further with a 2nd larger application.
I did use 2 full cans, the pasta container was large enough that it held both (45oz), I did rev the engine up and down a few times, probably not sweeping through the rpm like I should have. I am going to try it again on either my other 617 or on one of my Cummins and see what happens there.
I suspect improvements in smoothness from here I need to address the timing chain conditions and check injection timing next to see how far off spec those are.
@@trythistv To me, the motor sounded much smoother than before at idle. Not sure if you noticed a difference when driving?
Driving it seems exactly the same, I know it definetly didn't hurt anything though, it does always smooth up as it gets warmer, I'm suspicious of the timing being off after all these years and having been run low on oil for an unknown period of time (before I got it, had to swap cam and vac pump, bottom end was all ok though) I'm sure that chain has stretched a lot, but I won't know until I check it I guess
@@trythistv Assuming you've done the valve adjustment, rebuilt the injector nozzles, replaced the primer pump and rebuilt the o-rings in the lift pump, I think your next step would be replacing the spring in the OFV (try stretching the old one by hand a few times to see if it makes a difference before ordering a new one) and then the injection timing.
Other than the Auto-RX for compression, I'd recommend a large bottle of Chevron Techron diesel fuel additive for your tank to clean out all the gunk in there.
Yup, I did a valve adjustment with the cam swap, and then checked it a few hundred miles later to make sure it wasn't flattening lobes like the old one.
Then about 5k miles later I redid the adjustment as I felt with that much being disturbed it could have settled in.
New Firad 314 nozzles, all popping as close as I could get to 2k psi (50 higher than the 1950 psi spec I know), primer pump was replaced when I did the LP rebuild with OE Bosch kit (idk if they're still hard to find now), OFV spring stretched back to somewhere around 28mm.
The OFV spring did help cold starts, it always liked to stall when the glow plugs afterglow went off, with the better pressure it usually just stumbles once when they kick off now. I'm making a video on the OFV and testing fuel pressure, because I suspect that is a oft overlooked and critical piece of the fuel system.
The cam and IP timing is very soon on my list, I'm reeaaly hoping the shop for my business (boat and jetski mechanic) will be built soon so I can pull the car inside and not have to dodge raindrops when I end up rolling a timing chain in.
I did this on my 2015 Holden Colorado with 250,000kms yesterday.
The leftover diesel purge was about the same colour as yours maybe slightly darker so definitely cleaned something. I've seen some videos where the leftover DP is almost black!
Did you see any sediment in your inline filter?
I was surprised to see how much DP you went through in just 10 min! Mine took 50min to go through around 700mls.
I definitely noticed a difference, much quieter and smoother to drive.
It drank it through pretty quickly for sure.
I didn't notice much sediment in the inline filter, I've seen much worse than mine as well, I'd say it has to do a lot with how nasty the diesel is in each area. We've got some stations that do not have very good diesel, often dirty, sometimes water contaminated, algae and such.
It certainly made a difference in how smooth my car ran, Didn't notice much difference in power but the idle smoothed up a lot. probably from the injector pump running a little smoother, injecting a more even amount of fuel, or at least that is my theory.
Great video thank you! (wipes pasta sauce from face)
I've been told my diet consists primarily of pasta and cheese. I neither will confirm nor deny that statement 😂
Its very nice and informative video. I always admire the people who maintain their old diesel Mercedes Benz.
Your fuel line is clean, I was suspicious for air issues when you were connecting your can diesel line but nice to see very next moment you did pump to fill it fuel.
Lot of wishes and respect.
Thank you for the kind comment! I do love my old Mercedes, I'm hoping to repaint sometime, as the clearcoat has not fared well in the sun, but we'll get there after I sort out all the little mechanical quirks and get everything up to par!
Very helpful video. Just purchased an 85 300D, and I was about to do a purge. It's hard to see but do you attach the hose to the actual pre-filter or do you bypass the pre-filter and attach directly to the inlet nipple on the injection pump? Thanks
I attached to the little plastic prefilter, its easier, and it prevents any plastic shavings from your container or other grit making it into your lift pump or injection pump.
I'm actually replacing an injection pump on one of my work trucks right now because of some grungy diesel I got a tank of, that isn't a fun pricetag 😬
@@trythistv Thanks again. So you put it right onto the pre-filter, correct? I probably need to change out my pre-filter. Should I do that after the purge?
Thanks for sharing. Any luck w the fuel filter mod?
Yes indeed! All the parts have arrived, I just need to film assembling it, then upload it. I'm hoping to have that done in a week or two.
Grand total cost should be around $30 for the needed modification including the new 2 micron fuel filter/water separator (It does both, and has a drain, and fits in the stock location)
@@trythistv I would like to see a fix to be able to user both bolts on the filter mount. For the new 2 Micron Big Filter Mod. It would then be then much simpler and reliable. Cant wait to see an update on that setup making it better!
Hey bud I have a question, I have a 79 w116 300sd. Im gonna do the purge. I bought the kit from Kent at mercedessource, his mix instructions are very confusing though. I recieved a can of the actual diesel purge and a quart of hi moly content oil, he says I have to make a mix of veggie oil, diesel and the high moly content oil, but he says nothing about using the purge itself. Do I run purge by itself first, then run the mix? I'm lost
Any feedback from anyone would be awesome I'd like to get this done today
Ok, so kents kit and instructions are a little different, his kit has you run the purge as I show in this video, and then the mix of veggie oil, moly oil and diesel (1 gal veg, 1/2 pint moly, 1/2 pint diesel I believe) through the car, and then after hooking up your stock fuel tank taking the car on a good drive to get everything moving good and blow out any junk that got loosened up during the process
So, do the Purge, then the mix, then an italian tuneup.
I'm suspicious if any of the molybdenum used in the blend will make it past the filters, so I just do the liquimoly purge product as seen in this video, but I do plan on trying kents method at some point and open up the filters afterward to see if he might be onto something!
Thanks I actually had figured it out I just finished my drive. Did my motor mounts while i was at it. Omg completely different car its amazing
it sounds better less injection nailing
It certainly helped I'd say after having driven it a bit since doing this. I'm going to do this same treatment on my one truck that always stumbles and carries on when its first started, even with new injectors it smokes and coughs for a few seconds, then smooths out and runs flawlessly after that, hoping a purge will help it out!
Your fuel system was pretty clean. Usually the return comes out nearly black. I was going to suggest that this is also a good time to change out your prefilter and fuel filter but with how clean it looked coming out of the return, I wouldn't have bothered either.
Now go get some Stanadyne Lubricity additive to smooth things out even further.
And replace that worn out air filter mount. ;)
Funny thing about that air cleaner mount. I pulled the car into the driveway to make the video, the mount was fine, not rattling at all, I got all the stuff hooked up, and at some point between starting the car on the diesel purge and finishing up the mount must have broke. I keep a few spares because they seem to fail quite often, even with the little metal heat shields. I'll certainly look into the stanadyne, I've heard good things about them as well!
@@trythistv The only place that I've found locally that carries Stanadyne products is AutoZone but of course Amazon has the full range of products.
I run the Lubricity additive in my '77 240D and it does make a noticeable difference. I initially started using it due to modern low sulpher diesel. Our engines (OM616 & OM617 alike) were designed when Sulphur was used in pump diesel as a lubricant for the cylinder walls. Low sulpher = low lubricity which can ultimately lead to increased ring wear which leads to loss of compression and on and on it goes.
@@trythistv Mercedessource sells a heavy duty bracket kit that breaks less. The AUTORX I recommended will help reduce vibrations substantially (via compression) and that will also help indirectly.
ever use Power Service's Diesel Kleen? I've heard that's good too
@@MrRjnr I haven't used it. I buy Stanadyne Lubricity formula by the case though. Highly recommend it
I think I may try this with my car. Thanks man.
I'd say it has definitely quieted the car down, and seems to have smoothed it out a bit too. I'd do it for sure especially if you haven't done major fuel system stuff like I had.
Good purging
It does seem to clean everything up real good. Worth a shot for sure!
Yup, first you binge on pasta and sauce and then you purge the car.
Hello great video, can you tell me if you had to take out the fuse pump relay or fuse
On this specific car (W123 body diesels at least) There is no electric fuel pump or pump in the tank at all. There is just the lift pump on the side of the engine, which is what I connected the inlet hose to, so no fuse or relay to pull, I'm not sure if the later year bodies got electric pumps or not, but I know at least up to model year 85 the diesels did not.
@@trythistv thanks man, I think mine has a lift pump on the side of the engine too, no fuse or harness in the back of the vehicle, I’ll try your method see how it goes, issue I’m having is my vehicle is consuming way too much diesel.
If its the same engine, I'm certain they never used a electric pump. I believe the 603/606 type engines also did not, but I KNOW the 617 and 616 engines use the engine mounted pump like in this video
@@trythistv Hi again, Thanks for your help, I’m having a nightmare with my vehicle, basically I’ve got 2 pipes going to the fuel filter,1 supply line and the other return line, the return line I presume is where the fuel comes out of , can I just put those 2 pipes which were connected to the fuel filter into the diesel purge?
@@trythistv the supply line is the one that goes straight to the pump right?