Hint: $20 for a fret eraser??? Go to the manicure section of Wal*Mart, Meijer, Etc and buy the finger nail buffers. The soft kind not the really coarse emery board kind. A buck each. They have the flat board types and the kind I use are the triangular three sided ones( there are also four-sided ones). Not only great for frets but if you're really careful you can buff out the neck and body as well using the "Shine" side (They come with a "shine" "smooth" and "ridge removal" side (the four sided type also has a "nail edge" side). I've used them on my $400 Burrito Caster and my $4.5K Custom Shop Mary Kaye and everything in between with no problems. Oh, and just to remove surface scratches and minor defects go to the car parts department and grab some Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0. Cheaper than Virtuoso and just as safe (no silicon)
While you’re in the makeup section, grab some clear nitrocellulose nail polish for patching up the little dings in your finish. Works great near machine head holes and busted out chips around the nut.
Thanks for sharing. I'm a strong believer in if you're going to do the work get the right tools to do it correctly the first time. When I was a very young man I learned that the hard way. It doesn't bother me to buy a tool and I might only need it for that one particular job but if I ever need it it's still there if a friend or family needs to borrow it it's right there.
I am just now in the process of gathering information to 'Set Up'.. my guitar... for the first time.. just can see your tool selection covers the process perfectly for me.. a beginner.. So thanks..
Pretty spot on choice. But afaic, in order to do a complete guitar setup, i'd add a bunch of truss-rod and saddle wrenches (hex keys, Gibson style, metric and what not), a plain metal straight edge, correct size nut files for bass and guitar (and this is pretty important if you want to get the correct 1st fret action or whenever you change a nut, because without those it can be a pretty long and tricky job). I would also mention a soldering iron, and a quality wire/string cutter. Cheers.
This is very helpful..... you're not just telling the item but you also explain how to use it.. This is a complete guide for beginner guitarist who wants to maintenance their guitar by themselves... Thank you so much
I'd add allen wrenches for saddles/trussrod adjustment and 0000 steel wool and wood oil soap for cleaning fret boards . Also nut files for more advanced set up work. Nut files are expensive but way less than having to go to a luthier shop for buzzing from the nut or the bridge. GREAT video, very informative.
I absolutely agree, I struggled for years using torch tip cleaners touching up nut slots that caused a buzz the nut files are pricy but worth it & they’ll last forever.. steel Wool on electric guitars always finds its way to the magnets at the pickups, I use the scotch-bright pads instead.
I bought a number of these items on temu for dirt cheap with decent quality (free shipping). The notched straight edge was $8 (and came with a plastic string action ruler). Yeah, the edges are kinda sharp and sitting watching TV for a bit taking a file to it might be a good idea. Nine radius gauges for $5. Two fret guards w/sanding stone $3. Slot filing set $2. You can return any item you don't like for credit no problem anyway (and half the time they say just keep it). The quality is just okay, but they can do the job better than nothing. This is just a heads up for any who might want to have the tools but save quite a bit of $$$.
This video just came up in my suggestions today---I have all of those tools and then some. I have been working on guitars for 4 decades, and you did a great job explaining the what and why of these basic setup tools.
Things that have worked and not worked for me.. (as a hobbyist) I definitely waited too long to get a String action ruler gauge, probably should be something I should have bought right off the bat.. I'm very glad I got a good fret rocker, Probably paid too much, But very glad I got it.. I've not exactly needed feeler gauges.. I get away with using various picks and strings of a certain gauge, but i don't think those gauges are very expensive, but i've yet to get any and I've been ok.. I'm VERY glad I got a NOTCHED radius gauge.. I've yet to have a need for understring radius gauges, But I also don't have any strats or teles.. I'm very Glad I got a notched straight edge.. I would not buy a flat aluminum sanding beam, I almost got one, But now that i know the Radius of My guitars, I'm going to go with a Radius sanding block, that way, when you sand it, you'll never get the radius wrong.. Bought a hosco fret file, I like it, medium is definitely a good universal size, But make sure you also buy a Brass brush to clean the file between passes on different frets, You can get them at a hardware store for fairly cheap, I got a pack of three at my hardware store, One brass, One Plastic and one steel The plastic one has ended up working really well for cleaning hardware and the nasty gunk at the very base of the frets, the steel one is in my other toolbag waiting to be used... That being said, I Should have spent the money and bought a Diamond file, though.. Specifically a Stew Mac Zfile< but good lord...100 plus dollars. However, I see it as eliminating time and steps, as the frets are much closer to the final stages of completion and the z file appears to entail much less of a learning curve, I'm going to try nail files like someone else suggested here instead of fret erasers, But I'll still buy polish from the hardware store and if it doesn't work for me, I'm going to go with the fret erasures by Hosco. Never saw a need for fret end file.. Never had a need for calipers.. Beware, fret guards are kinda clumsy and CAN scuff the fingerboard a bit.. Thank you for coming to my Ted talk..
Instead of expensive fret erasers, I use multi surface nail files from the grocery store. $4 and has all the different grits you need to polish and smooth frets
Many years ago I was teaching myself how to setup my own guitars. I had no one to guide me so I experimented with different tools and techniques. I found that ink erasers worked well for fret work. I had found some around the house that were made with what equated to different grits. I suppose what I am saying is that today I'd probably head to a big box store and buy some cheap ink erasers and see how that works out before purchasing the fairly expensive Stew Mac pack.
I've got quite a collection of Luthier tools at this point. Just invested in nut files for bass and guitar. The only purchase I have made that I regret is my fret crowning file. It just will not cut the hard, stainless steel frets. I would have gone with a diamond file instead.
Thank you Kennis I saved your video for future references. I use an electrical guitar and I also own some basic maintenance tools. I just recently bought the String Action Ruler. What I dont like is that the reading is so small that I would need to put my glasses on or use a magnifier. Also the stainless steel is hard to read on. The long notched ruler you have on the list is great, but you can do without for measuring the straightness of the fret board with fretting the first fret and where the fretboard meets the body you fret, then measure at the 7-9 feet. I say that because some guitars have other scale length than 25.5" and the 24.75". But super great video and you gave me the courage to experiment with a cheaper guitar and see what happens.
Great list. Good to see someone out there giving good advice like this. I'd add a true straight edge to the list. You'd be amazed at how usefulthey are. Fret rockers are a dangerous tool if not understood. Low is often the problem, not just high. It matters to understand the root cause. With that said, great tool and quick results. A good set of gauged nut files; not essential but handy. Not the double sided cheap ones either, a full set of accurate ones and a fret saw. These will let you make high quality nuts and easily modify an existing sticky nuts or rework for new string gauges. Expensive I know but tools you can trust that last. I also have 2 fantastic tools from Stew-mac. Not cheap but money well spent. Super accurate and removes any guess work. Yes, they are relatively expensive but you will have them for years and years. Some of the most useful and used tools I have for setups. Seriously great to have. 1. Neck relief gauge 2. Nut slotting gauge.
Terrific video, Kennis and a belated HAPPY B'DAY to you since Apr 19th was only a couple of weeks ago. Like you, I am a fan of doing my own setup and while I love quality tools, I have amassed quite a few from places like yard/garage sales, estate auctions and even business sales with the bulk of my tools being 80+ years old - quality even Stewart-MacDonald cannot match. I've found metal/wood files, small wrenches, old crescent wrenches, calipers, levels (not like the crummy ones made today), hand wood working tools perfect for bodies and necks, hand drills, and other assorted items for dirt cheap. I have opted to buy a few modern tools and I have become a huge fan of Fret Guru. Their crowning file rocks! And Skylark's 6" leveling beam is perfect for fretwork as well. Some tools I've made and even bought a couple of el cheapo ones (radius gauges) which I sat and took time to deburr the items. Why anyone complains about that is beyond me especially when the price is right and it takes but a little elbow grease. in my garage, you'll find Craftsman tools, not the best, Snap On, yet numerous guys here blab on and on about SM and I'm willing to bet they do not have any Snap On tools in their own garage either! Most likely they have either Walmart or Craftsman at best. Yet they won't STFU about SM tools as if those are the only luthier tools around. Clowns!
I don't own a notched straight edge. I have fret leveled guitars about a dozen times. All you need is a fret rocker and a marker. You can also do it with a standard straight edge running along the side of the frets(if you have sprout, you have to deal with it first). You can do the same thing with a lazer level. The special notched straight levels get expensive if you play multiple scale lengths. If you are planning on being a luthier or guitar tec for a band, it's probably worth the investment. If you are just working on your guitars, it's not worth it. I know my fret work is good because i traded a guitar to a guy on kijiji(Craigslist in canada) that I worked on, and his buddy contacted me a week later to buy a guitar off of me. Said my fretwork was better than his local luthier, and after he got the guitar, he sent me a big thank you message gushing about my fretwork.
I just want to take a minute to thank you! So much, I'm about to start my first project and this video is valuable ! The least I can do is subscribe and definitely a thumbs up! Thank you again for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you for this, Kennis! I agree that there still aren't many vids like this. Ben Crowe did one years ago, but it was effectively fitting out a whole workshop (too much), Dan @ Guns and Guitars has come at it from the opposite side and shows how to make DIY tools, yours is right down the middle and is probably the best, because it's basically doable for a lot more people than either of the two alternatives! Thanks again!
Great stuff Kennis. I've been Learning to do my own Set-Ups & maintenance on my guitars and it comes-out 10x Better = exact to my playing specs. Appreciate you sharing the information.
I don't normally comment on videos, but this really is excellent - thank you very much for taking the time to do something so informative. (By the way, I swear by fine grade wire wool for fret polishing)
I agree with what hanten10 said, this is a good video which explains the tool types, what they do and how to use them and prices, something I was looking for in a video myself. Thank you so much.
Oh ya, I use a triangular file with a safe edge for crowning. Takes skill but gives the best results if used properly. Stew-mac sells them as well as a few others. Definitely skill required but very versatile.
Thank you, This helps rid some of the confusion that I have when trying to decide which tools to buy first. Sometimes I buy what fits my wallet and then I still dont have the tools that I need from the get go. Thanks,, again
You had mentioned the aluminum sanding bar and how expensive it is. I’ve seen many in the $60 range. I put off getting one for that reason. I found a place on Amazon from a company called UAAC out of Morganton, NC. It’s 1x2x19 inches and only costs $9.93. Sandpaper is not included but at that price, who cares. It came in 2 days. One thing I did was to purchase a number of the items needed in China. I spent 70% less for a lot of what I use and have not had any issues. Some things are are even 90% of cost in the states. It just takes 30-60 days to get.
Hey Kennis, happy B.day and was I surprised when it wasn't a vid. trying to hawk Stew-Mac stuff. Not that I'm saying you do. Just alot do and it's nice to see someone show tools that are not all stew-mac. Thanx for the honesty
At present I am leveling, polishing and doing the rest of the setup, all taught via TH-cam videos, for the first time. It's not at all hard. It's pretty easy. I'd say the hardest part is dressing the fret ends. You'll not get them looking beautiful your first time probably.
Same Here: My wife said get what you think you need & I'll pay for it !! (pile of tools that wore out) & a PETERSON Strobe Tuner (desk model flip top) $300.00... Then... She flipped, Then payed up !!!
I made my own fret level. I bought a 1"× 1" × 36" of square steal stock from a hardware store. I cut it down to 16". Then marked one side with a sharpie marker. Sanded off the marker on top on a table saw top with 100 grit paper laid flat. After all the marker was sanded off, the metal had a perfectly machined level and was ready to apply the proper sandpaper for leveling. You could do that to all four sides for different grits of sand paper. I think I spent about $8.00, and I have enough material to make another one if needed.
Thanx 4 my 1st..set up lesson...jst got a Squire Mini..$25..played it with very rusty strings yesterday for 3 hrs..Bluez of korse..nut chippped off at 6th...kant wait...2 dig into it...gonna try Hybrd.Slnky 9/46 ? Ciao.
damn now that you mention it when i was a kid, decades ago, i saw those in my dad's tool box and always wondered what they were for. i probably asked and didn't remember but i totally remember seeing them.
Thanks for the list. I’m modding quite a few guitars and basses lately, and building entire instruments essentially by hand as well, so this is food for thought. One suggestion for you. As a seasoned machinist/ CNC machinist/Process Engineer/CNC Programmer/Production Manager I’ve seen countless measurement instruments, and hundreds of calipers. Dial cslipers, of even above average quality, will serve you better than a digital any day, in particular over the long haul. Digitals are prone to breaking or internal damage you don’t see. This can cause erroneous measurements, and often inconsistent measurements that may be precise, in that they repeat on the same distance, but are not accurate, in that they are not consistent over varied distances. Many low quality calipers, like the $10 Chinese made calipers, are as accurate as the tape measures found often to be showing graduations of inches and millimeters, but are not actually showing an accurately defined inch or millileter (I have numerous times taken cheap scales and calipers out of my shop because when compared to a stsndard they were not even close). If even small metal particulate, dust, saw dust, or dirt get into the very exposed and poorly made mechanisms you can consider it a $20 paperweight and a lesson learned. If accuracy matters at all, avoid the temptation of the easy way out of cheap digital stuff and get something decent.
The analog calipers have their pros too. If you measure something small you might tend to press the caliper to hard on the workpiece and you get a bad reading. This is often the case when something is soft or very thin. you can see it in the movement of the needle when you close it onto the workpiece.
A popular TH-camr who sells luthier tools thru website (i wont say their name) sells a fret rocker for $29 and action ruler for over $15 plus shipping. Ridiculous prices for small flat pieces of metal lol. I'm glad you are doing a public service by letting people know that you can get them for a lot less.
If you are talking about Stewmac they gouge people for shipping prices as well. I bought a set of shims for a Floyd Rose nut for $4.95 and they charged me $10 extra for shipping. When I got the shims they weighed less than 2 oz which could have been sent by first class mail for about $3.50. These guys are scam artists as far as I'm concerned.
HAPPY BELATED BDAY. The fret erasers are great... Love me. Also be sure to always tape off the fretboard and sides when working on your frets. The erasers are well worth the 20 bucks and don't wear out easily.
Hi Kennis. I use the Hosco fret file. The only thing is dont rush it or you will have a rough frets to clean up. Go slow and it will work much faster than a 3 corner file. As far as the fret eraser not so hot. I tried them and they just didn't perform very well.
I sold industrial abrasive products here 🇬🇧 for years . If you're in the states ,check out Cratex rubberised abrasive blocks. Got to be cheaper than those little "for guitars" advertised ones 👍
the end dress tool for frets is a stew mac tool if you buy from stew mac don't go thru ebay or amazon Kennis it is only i think 15.00 dollars and on amazon and ebay it is about 20 to 30 dollars . but if you have a affiliate link then i am sorry for adding this commit . just wanted to let you know for future purchases stew mac don't give anyone any deals maybe a coupon code every so often. so people who sell there tools on ebay and amazon has to mark up the price to make any money. so go direct with stew mac. but great video i couldn't figure out how thick the straight edge was but you showed a great pick of the side thank you
By all means get it at the cheapest place possible. Those are affiliate links in the description, but I actually just added those last month. Everyone please search for the best deals too.
A really instructive video, thanks! I am sure that you already know that your name 'Kennis' is the Dutch and Afrikaans words for 'Knowledge'. It is just so fitting!
Hi Again Kennis. This is an old video so I dont know if you will get this. I would like to help you corrwct a problem we all had when we first started doing. repairs. The thing that was pointed out to me from an old lutheier. Try to keep your level beam on the nsck at all times and dont sand off the end of the neck. Kepp it back and forth and follow the radius as you work your beam. This keeps all the frets being sanded the same amount.
Great Video! Picked up my first half decent electric, but is in need of a set up, and possibly has a few high frets. I figured if you do your own oil changes, should know how to set up your own guitar! Thank you mate, very helpful!
I find the wooden radius blocks to be more useful for leveling the frets than the leveling beam (and cheaper). The beam could throw off the radius of the frets and is going to take off way more material in an effort to get such a long strip of frets to the same level. You are going to be setting the neck to have some relief after all this fret leveling is done so it seems redundant to try to get 12 plus inches of frets all to exactly the same level. As you demonstrated, you use the fret rocker to isolate 3 frets at a time to find any problematic frets. The wooden blocks are usually about 6" long so that does 3-6 frets at a time. Good enough, IMHO. The blocks help you identify the problem spots that need extra work.
Very well presented and easy to follow. The HOSCO tools are all very good and professional IMHO. You can't really go wrong with HOSCO. You can use an old credit card as a fret rocker.
Hi Kennis, I wanted to share a couple things with you, and hopefully help some others, first, you can get a Fret rocker/action ruler in one, I got mine from Fret Guru, the nice thing about mine was if I left a comment about how I thought it was, good OR bad (but believe me it is awesome) then the guy would send you a leather pouch for it to protect it.Next, the notched straight edge, I have that VERY brand, it is great isn't it.. but I bought mine on Amazon for about the 20 bucks, my next one is the bass. I checked around and a pair of digital calipers can be bought from Walmart for about 20-25 bucks, and it comes in a case to protect them.
I like your fret beam. I couldn’t justify the expense so I used a two foot level and it worked great. It’s much cheaper and you can use it to level your stove or whatever around the house. I leveled the frets on an eBay guitar that wasn’t worth a trip to a luthier.
Skylark makes a nice fret leveling beam for a very decent price. I just acquired one after a good friend got one and fell in love with it. He was using a level like Dan @ Guns n' Guitars suggested.
1:19 String action ruler
2:20 Feeler gauges
3:37 Caliper (or ruler)
5:05 Radius gauges
7:12 Notched straight edge
9:21 Fret rocker
11:19 Precision sanding beam
13:40 Fret crowning file
15:25 Fret end dressing file
16:50 Fret erasers
18:02 Fretboard guards
Hint: $20 for a fret eraser??? Go to the manicure section of Wal*Mart, Meijer, Etc and buy the finger nail buffers. The soft kind not the really coarse emery board kind. A buck each. They have the flat board types and the kind I use are the triangular three sided ones( there are also four-sided ones). Not only great for frets but if you're really careful you can buff out the neck and body as well using the "Shine" side (They come with a "shine" "smooth" and "ridge removal" side (the four sided type also has a "nail edge" side). I've used them on my $400 Burrito Caster and my $4.5K Custom Shop Mary Kaye and everything in between with no problems. Oh, and just to remove surface scratches and minor defects go to the car parts department and grab some Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0. Cheaper than Virtuoso and just as safe (no silicon)
While you’re in the makeup section, grab some clear nitrocellulose nail polish for patching up the little dings in your finish. Works great near machine head holes and busted out chips around the nut.
I’ve been playing and DIYing for years. This was an incredibly well paced and informative article
Thanks for sharing. I'm a strong believer in if you're going to do the work get the right tools to do it correctly the first time. When I was a very young man I learned that the hard way. It doesn't bother me to buy a tool and I might only need it for that one particular job but if I ever need it it's still there if a friend or family needs to borrow it it's right there.
I am just now in the process of gathering information to 'Set Up'.. my guitar... for the first time..
just can see your tool selection covers the process perfectly for me.. a beginner..
So thanks..
Pretty spot on choice. But afaic, in order to do a complete guitar setup, i'd add a bunch of truss-rod and saddle wrenches (hex keys, Gibson style, metric and what not), a plain metal straight edge, correct size nut files for bass and guitar (and this is pretty important if you want to get the correct 1st fret action or whenever you change a nut, because without those it can be a pretty long and tricky job). I would also mention a soldering iron, and a quality wire/string cutter. Cheers.
This is very helpful..... you're not just telling the item but you also explain how to use it.. This is a complete guide for beginner guitarist who wants to maintenance their guitar by themselves... Thank you so much
I'd add allen wrenches for saddles/trussrod adjustment and 0000 steel wool and wood oil soap for cleaning fret boards . Also nut files for more advanced set up work. Nut files are expensive but way less than having to go to a luthier shop for buzzing from the nut or the bridge. GREAT video, very informative.
I absolutely agree, I struggled for years using torch tip cleaners touching up nut slots that caused a buzz the nut files are pricy but worth it & they’ll last forever.. steel Wool on electric guitars always finds its way to the magnets at the pickups, I use the scotch-bright pads instead.
I bought a number of these items on temu for dirt cheap with decent quality (free shipping). The notched straight edge was $8 (and came with a plastic string action ruler). Yeah, the edges are kinda sharp and sitting watching TV for a bit taking a file to it might be a good idea. Nine radius gauges for $5. Two fret guards w/sanding stone $3. Slot filing set $2. You can return any item you don't like for credit no problem anyway (and half the time they say just keep it). The quality is just okay, but they can do the job better than nothing. This is just a heads up for any who might want to have the tools but save quite a bit of $$$.
This video just came up in my suggestions today---I have all of those tools and then some. I have been working on guitars for 4 decades, and you did a great job explaining the what and why of these basic setup tools.
Things that have worked and not worked for me.. (as a hobbyist)
I definitely waited too long to get a String action ruler gauge, probably should be something I should have bought right off the bat..
I'm very glad I got a good fret rocker, Probably paid too much, But very glad I got it..
I've not exactly needed feeler gauges.. I get away with using various picks and strings of a certain gauge, but i don't think those gauges are very expensive, but i've yet to get any and I've been ok..
I'm VERY glad I got a NOTCHED radius gauge.. I've yet to have a need for understring radius gauges, But I also don't have any strats or teles..
I'm very Glad I got a notched straight edge..
I would not buy a flat aluminum sanding beam, I almost got one, But now that i know the Radius of My guitars, I'm going to go with a Radius sanding block, that way, when you sand it, you'll never get the radius wrong..
Bought a hosco fret file, I like it, medium is definitely a good universal size, But make sure you also buy a Brass brush to clean the file between passes on different frets, You can get them at a hardware store for fairly cheap, I got a pack of three at my hardware store, One brass, One Plastic and one steel The plastic one has ended up working really well for cleaning hardware and the nasty gunk at the very base of the frets, the steel one is in my other toolbag waiting to be used... That being said, I Should have spent the money and bought a Diamond file, though.. Specifically a Stew Mac Zfile< but good lord...100 plus dollars. However, I see it as eliminating time and steps, as the frets are much closer to the final stages of completion and the z file appears to entail much less of a learning curve,
I'm going to try nail files like someone else suggested here instead of fret erasers, But I'll still buy polish from the hardware store and if it doesn't work for me, I'm going to go with the fret erasures by Hosco.
Never saw a need for fret end file.. Never had a need for calipers.. Beware, fret guards are kinda clumsy and CAN scuff the fingerboard a bit..
Thank you for coming to my Ted talk..
Instead of expensive fret erasers, I use multi surface nail files from the grocery store. $4 and has all the different grits you need to polish and smooth frets
I do too. Quick, cheap and very effective.
Yep. Those 4-in-1's just make'em shine. Trust me, I'm Polish.
Yeah there’s some things you don’t want scrimp on but this is definitely one of them lol
Many years ago I was teaching myself how to setup my own guitars. I had no one to guide me so I experimented with different tools and techniques. I found that ink erasers worked well for fret work. I had found some around the house that were made with what equated to different grits. I suppose what I am saying is that today I'd probably head to a big box store and buy some cheap ink erasers and see how that works out before purchasing the fairly expensive Stew Mac pack.
Best simple explanation of the basic tools you need for keeping your guitars in top playing shape. Love it 👍👍👍
Glad you liked it.
Thanks man, this was extremely helpful, cheers 🍻
I just got a set and had no idea what some of it even was. This was very informative! Thanks!
I've got quite a collection of Luthier tools at this point. Just invested in nut files for bass and guitar. The only purchase I have made that I regret is my fret crowning file. It just will not cut the hard, stainless steel frets. I would have gone with a diamond file instead.
Thank you Kennis
I saved your video for future references.
I use an electrical guitar and I also own some basic maintenance tools.
I just recently bought the String Action Ruler. What I dont like is that the reading is so small that I would need to put my glasses on or use a magnifier. Also the stainless steel is hard to read on.
The long notched ruler you have on the list is great, but you can do without for measuring the straightness of the fret board with fretting the first fret and where the fretboard meets the body you fret, then measure at the 7-9 feet. I say that because some guitars have other scale length than 25.5" and the 24.75".
But super great video and you gave me the courage to experiment with a cheaper guitar and see what happens.
Great list. Good to see someone out there giving good advice like this.
I'd add a true straight edge to the list. You'd be amazed at how usefulthey are.
Fret rockers are a dangerous tool if not understood. Low is often the problem, not just high. It matters to understand the root cause. With that said, great tool and quick results.
A good set of gauged nut files; not essential but handy. Not the double sided cheap ones either, a full set of accurate ones and a fret saw. These will let you make high quality nuts and easily modify an existing sticky nuts or rework for new string gauges. Expensive I know but tools you can trust that last.
I also have 2 fantastic tools from Stew-mac. Not cheap but money well spent. Super accurate and removes any guess work. Yes, they are relatively expensive but you will have them for years and years. Some of the most useful and used tools I have for setups. Seriously great to have.
1. Neck relief gauge
2. Nut slotting gauge.
Yes true. Nut files are the next on my list of tools. Any chance you've tried the new Music Nomad nut files?
Terrific video, Kennis and a belated HAPPY B'DAY to you since Apr 19th was only a couple of weeks ago.
Like you, I am a fan of doing my own setup and while I love quality tools, I have amassed quite a few from places like yard/garage sales, estate auctions and even business sales with the bulk of my tools being 80+ years old - quality even Stewart-MacDonald cannot match. I've found metal/wood files, small wrenches, old crescent wrenches, calipers, levels (not like the crummy ones made today), hand wood working tools perfect for bodies and necks, hand drills, and other assorted items for dirt cheap.
I have opted to buy a few modern tools and I have become a huge fan of Fret Guru. Their crowning file rocks! And Skylark's 6" leveling beam is perfect for fretwork as well. Some tools I've made and even bought a couple of el cheapo ones (radius gauges) which I sat and took time to deburr the items. Why anyone complains about that is beyond me especially when the price is right and it takes but a little elbow grease.
in my garage, you'll find Craftsman tools, not the best, Snap On, yet numerous guys here blab on and on about SM and I'm willing to bet they do not have any Snap On tools in their own garage either! Most likely they have either Walmart or Craftsman at best. Yet they won't STFU about SM tools as if those are the only luthier tools around. Clowns!
I don't own a notched straight edge. I have fret leveled guitars about a dozen times. All you need is a fret rocker and a marker. You can also do it with a standard straight edge running along the side of the frets(if you have sprout, you have to deal with it first). You can do the same thing with a lazer level. The special notched straight levels get expensive if you play multiple scale lengths. If you are planning on being a luthier or guitar tec for a band, it's probably worth the investment. If you are just working on your guitars, it's not worth it.
I know my fret work is good because i traded a guitar to a guy on kijiji(Craigslist in canada) that I worked on, and his buddy contacted me a week later to buy a guitar off of me. Said my fretwork was better than his local luthier, and after he got the guitar, he sent me a big thank you message gushing about my fretwork.
I just want to take a minute to thank you! So much, I'm about to start my first project and this video is valuable ! The least I can do is subscribe and definitely a thumbs up! Thank you again for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you for this, Kennis! I agree that there still aren't many vids like this. Ben Crowe did one years ago, but it was effectively fitting out a whole workshop (too much), Dan @ Guns and Guitars has come at it from the opposite side and shows how to make DIY tools, yours is right down the middle and is probably the best, because it's basically doable for a lot more people than either of the two alternatives! Thanks again!
Great stuff Kennis. I've been Learning to do my own Set-Ups & maintenance on my guitars and it comes-out 10x Better = exact to my playing specs. Appreciate you sharing the information.
I don't normally comment on videos, but this really is excellent - thank you very much for taking the time to do something so informative.
(By the way, I swear by fine grade wire wool for fret polishing)
Very useful. All the info in one place. Thanks!
I agree with what hanten10 said, this is a good video which explains the tool types, what they do and how to use them and prices, something I was looking for in a video myself. Thank you so much.
For sure. You are welcome.
Very useful for a beginner like me, thanks Kennis for sharing your knowledge!
Oh ya, I use a triangular file with a safe edge for crowning. Takes skill but gives the best results if used properly. Stew-mac sells them as well as a few others. Definitely skill required but very versatile.
Hey man, thanks so much for taking the time to put this together for us. Great work bro!
Thank you, This helps rid some of the confusion that I have when trying to decide which tools to buy first. Sometimes I buy what fits my wallet and then I still dont have the tools that I need from the get go. Thanks,, again
Thanks. I see those tools on Amazon, but have no idea how to use them. Well done.
You had mentioned the aluminum sanding bar and how expensive it is. I’ve seen many in the $60 range. I put off getting one for that reason. I found a place on Amazon from a company called UAAC out of Morganton, NC. It’s 1x2x19 inches and only costs $9.93. Sandpaper is not included but at that price, who cares. It came in 2 days. One thing I did was to purchase a number of the items needed in China. I spent 70% less for a lot of what I use and have not had any issues. Some things are are even 90% of cost in the states. It just takes 30-60 days to get.
links:
Happy Birthday Kennis! Thanks for sharing yet another informative video. I always learn something new from you.
Hey Kennis, happy B.day and was I surprised when it wasn't a vid. trying to hawk Stew-Mac stuff. Not that I'm saying you do. Just alot do and it's nice to see someone show tools that are not all stew-mac. Thanx for the honesty
first - Hex / Allen Wrench set.
At present I am leveling, polishing and doing the rest of the setup, all taught via TH-cam videos, for the first time. It's not at all hard. It's pretty easy. I'd say the hardest part is dressing the fret ends. You'll not get them looking beautiful your first time probably.
Same Here: My wife said get what you think you need & I'll pay for it !! (pile of tools that wore out) & a PETERSON Strobe Tuner (desk model flip top) $300.00... Then... She flipped, Then payed up !!!
1. String action ruler
2. Feeler gauges
3. Calliper
4. Radius gauges
5. Notched straight edge
6. Fret rocker
7. Precision sanding beam
8. Fret crowning file
9. Fret end dressing file
10. Rubber fret polishers
11. Fretboard guards/protectors
I made my own fret level. I bought a 1"× 1" × 36" of square steal stock from a hardware store. I cut it down to 16". Then marked one side with a sharpie marker. Sanded off the marker on top on a table saw top with 100 grit paper laid flat. After all the marker was sanded off, the metal had a perfectly machined level and was ready to apply the proper sandpaper for leveling. You could do that to all four sides for different grits of sand paper. I think I spent about $8.00, and I have enough material to make another one if needed.
I just sold my house. I am now living in the streets, but at least I have all the guitar tools I needed.
DAMN! SON!
Now you need to change your name to : Homeless MusicMan !
You have a house now ?
Thanx 4 my 1st..set up lesson...jst got a Squire Mini..$25..played it with very rusty strings yesterday for 3 hrs..Bluez of korse..nut chippped off at 6th...kant wait...2 dig into it...gonna try Hybrd.Slnky 9/46 ? Ciao.
Great video Ken. Many thanks.
Great informative video! Happy Birthday, Kennis!
Good video. You could use just a basic jumbo pink rubber eraser in the school supply aisle for a $1
Excellent video, explains everything clearly. Thanks
Happy Birthday Ken!!
You can also use the feeler gauge (#2) to gap the spark plugs in your car's engine. Available at most auto shops.
damn now that you mention it when i was a kid, decades ago, i saw those in my dad's tool box and always wondered what they were for. i probably asked and didn't remember but i totally remember seeing them.
Great info! Thanks Kennis.
Belated Happy Birthday Kennis, enjoy your videos a lot thanks
Thanks for the list. I’m modding quite a few guitars and basses lately, and building entire instruments essentially by hand as well, so this is food for thought.
One suggestion for you. As a seasoned machinist/ CNC machinist/Process Engineer/CNC Programmer/Production Manager I’ve seen countless measurement instruments, and hundreds of calipers.
Dial cslipers, of even above average quality, will serve you better than a digital any day, in particular over the long haul. Digitals are prone to breaking or internal damage you don’t see. This can cause erroneous measurements, and often inconsistent measurements that may be precise, in that they repeat on the same distance, but are not accurate, in that they are not consistent over varied distances.
Many low quality calipers, like the $10 Chinese made calipers, are as accurate as the tape measures found often to be showing graduations of inches and millimeters, but are not actually showing an accurately defined inch or millileter (I have numerous times taken cheap scales and calipers out of my shop because when compared to a stsndard they were not even close).
If even small metal particulate, dust, saw dust, or dirt get into the very exposed and poorly made mechanisms you can consider it a $20 paperweight and a lesson learned.
If accuracy matters at all, avoid the temptation of the easy way out of cheap digital stuff and get something decent.
just added the video to my list of favorites :D thank you very much for the information.
The analog calipers have their pros too.
If you measure something small you might tend to press the caliper to hard on the workpiece and you get a bad reading.
This is often the case when something is soft or very thin. you can see it in the movement of the needle when you close it onto the workpiece.
lots of valuable information, thanks for sharing!!!
Nice video Kennis. I appreciate your opinion and the effort you put into the video.
A popular TH-camr who sells luthier tools thru website (i wont say their name) sells a fret rocker for $29 and action ruler for over $15 plus shipping. Ridiculous prices for small flat pieces of metal lol. I'm glad you are doing a public service by letting people know that you can get them for a lot less.
If you are talking about Stewmac they gouge people for shipping prices as well. I bought a set of shims for a Floyd Rose nut for $4.95 and they charged me $10 extra for shipping. When I got the shims they weighed less than 2 oz which could have been sent by first class mail for about $3.50. These guys are scam artists as far as I'm concerned.
A good bit of what he sells you can buy from the same source china. I bought all my Luthier tools through aliexpress
Stanley knife blades as a fret rocker. Cheap and you can used them as a knife edge after !!
This is helpful, I bought all of these or facsimiles thereof.
Great video thanks. I have been wanting to see this done by an unbiased you-tuber for a while.
Late Happy Birthday! Great video! Thank you very much for making this video for us.
HAPPY BELATED BDAY. The fret erasers are great... Love me. Also be sure to always tape off the fretboard and sides when working on your frets. The erasers are well worth the 20 bucks and don't wear out easily.
Yeah! that was very useful and informative Kennis. As a new enthusiast to guitar maintenance this is exactly the information I need. Thank you. 😎👍🎸
Hi Kennis. I use the Hosco fret file. The only thing is dont rush it or you will have a rough frets to clean up. Go slow and it will work much faster than a 3 corner file. As far as the fret eraser not so hot. I tried them and they just didn't perform very well.
Nice video! I'm starting to refret my strat! This was very helpful!
Thank you for making this video, it has been very helpful.
Great video, well put! Thank you very much
Thank you so much, I really needed this, there are no professional luthiers where I live
good video Kennis, one more thing I would have added would have been nut files or at least torch tip files for making nut groove adjustments
Happy Birthday Kennis Russel thank you for sharing knowledge and care ..
I sold industrial abrasive products here 🇬🇧 for years . If you're in the states ,check out Cratex rubberised abrasive blocks. Got to be cheaper than those little "for guitars" advertised ones 👍
Great crash source on set up tools!
Very helpful. Thank you
the end dress tool for frets is a stew mac tool if you buy from stew mac don't go thru ebay or amazon Kennis it is only i think 15.00 dollars and on amazon and ebay it is about 20 to 30 dollars . but if you have a affiliate link then i am sorry for adding this commit . just wanted to let you know for future purchases stew mac don't give anyone any deals maybe a coupon code every so often. so people who sell there tools on ebay and amazon has to mark up the price to make any money. so go direct with stew mac. but great video i couldn't figure out how thick the straight edge was but you showed a great pick of the side thank you
By all means get it at the cheapest place possible. Those are affiliate links in the description, but I actually just added those last month. Everyone please search for the best deals too.
A really instructive video, thanks! I am sure that you already know that your name 'Kennis' is the Dutch and Afrikaans words for 'Knowledge'. It is just so fitting!
Yes, thanks, and I did.
Big Thanks Bro. ^^
(Your FC from deep forest of North Thailand .. ^^)
HAPPY B-DAY bro!!! I am a subscriber to your channel , keep up the good mojo !!
Hi Again Kennis. This is an old video so I dont know if you will get this. I would like to help you corrwct a problem we all had when we first started doing. repairs. The thing that was pointed out to me from an old lutheier. Try to keep your level beam on the nsck at all times and dont sand off the end of the neck. Kepp it back and forth and follow the radius as you work your beam. This keeps all the frets being sanded the same amount.
Soldering iron. The only thing I would have added. But, a great video. Thanks for the upload.
Hey Kennis, excellent video, thank you for sharing..
Great Video! Picked up my first half decent electric, but is in need of a set up, and possibly has a few high frets. I figured if you do your own oil changes, should know how to set up your own guitar!
Thank you mate, very helpful!
I find the wooden radius blocks to be more useful for leveling the frets than the leveling beam (and cheaper). The beam could throw off the radius of the frets and is going to take off way more material in an effort to get such a long strip of frets to the same level. You are going to be setting the neck to have some relief after all this fret leveling is done so it seems redundant to try to get 12 plus inches of frets all to exactly the same level. As you demonstrated, you use the fret rocker to isolate 3 frets at a time to find any problematic frets. The wooden blocks are usually about 6" long so that does 3-6 frets at a time. Good enough, IMHO. The blocks help you identify the problem spots that need extra work.
Very well presented and easy to follow. The HOSCO tools are all very good and professional IMHO. You can't really go wrong with HOSCO. You can use an old credit card as a fret rocker.
Thanks. I agree about hosco.
Great Video, thanks!
Great general tips on the required tools ☠️🎸
Many many thanks. Quality vid.
thanks for the info great stuff.
Hi Kennis, I wanted to share a couple things with you, and hopefully help some others, first, you can get a Fret rocker/action ruler in one, I got mine from Fret Guru, the nice thing about mine was if I left a comment about how I thought it was, good OR bad (but believe me it is awesome) then the guy would send you a leather pouch for it to protect it.Next, the notched straight edge, I have that VERY brand, it is great isn't it.. but I bought mine on Amazon for about the 20 bucks, my next one is the bass. I checked around and a pair of digital calipers can be bought from Walmart for about 20-25 bucks, and it comes in a case to protect them.
Absolutely been helpful, thanks a lot for taking the trouble to show.. Cheers ; .
Really helpful information, thanx to you bro
So help, thank you!
I like your fret beam. I couldn’t justify the expense so I used a two foot level and it worked great. It’s much cheaper and you can use it to level your stove or whatever around the house. I leveled the frets on an eBay guitar that wasn’t worth a trip to a luthier.
Skylark makes a nice fret leveling beam for a very decent price. I just acquired one after a good friend got one and fell in love with it. He was using a level like Dan @ Guns n' Guitars suggested.
Fret crowning file is what I need.
Awesome video.
Very useful. THANK YOU!!
I have the same credit-card ruler. It's wildly inccurate and required some careful adjustment with the leveling beam.
Excellent video. Thanks for putting the time in. This is great
Yeah this is useful thanks man good video
Great video. Thanks! I do have a suggestion for #11....an assortment of metric and american allen wrenches.
great job
very good..thanks