Well explained Rob. Wish you had this video out 5 years ago. It was the first time I had my gsxr1100 engine apart. Reading up about it, watching your video and looking at your engine for a while as you turn it over would help anyone understand what they're seeing/doing 👍
*Don't shoot me, I'm just a dummy... I made my own dead stop and put it on the lathe and machined a hole right through the middle. Also I've found the clay smith degree wheels work great on these engines* 🤘🤘🤘
I like mounting the timing wheel opposite to what you show (numbers towards the engine). The reason is I can easily see the numbers as I turn the crank from the right side of the engine. You have the nice, big Moroso wheel so you can view it easily.
Good information and keep up the good work. Love the details and techniques of your work Do you bother to degree in the exhaust cam ? Have you tried, especially that your boosting the bike, to experiment with different can timing ? Especially widening the intake/ exhaust centerline to reduce valve overlap ? Thanks and keep tech going.
Yes I degree both. Most cases I just use factory numbers. 105/105. But you can move where peak torque and HP around by changing those numbers up or down a few degrees depending on what you’re doing.
Hello; why those wheels say "intake open" at the right of TDC? BTDC would be at the LEFT; you know; before... I have 2 notches in the crankshaft flywheel of my bike. One is for TDC and the other is at 37ºBTDC. always stop (if I use an stop tool) to the left of the TDC mark on the wheel...
While for the most part you are doing it right procedurally, you did error in your placement of the dial indicator. Around 16:20 in the video when you go to the side view of the degree wheel/head/pointer/dial indicator extension, I could see you didn’t have the dial indicators axis in line with the valves axis of travel. That introduces a slight amount of cosine error or parallax error. You have the indicator axis vertical (as in the same axis as the head studs). Busa is 14 degree valve angle or 28 included angle. Think about what the tip of the indicator is doing as it “tracks the bucket travel. It is actually sliding ever so slightly since your not inline with its travel. Not making this up, I’ve been building these 4 cylinder gs, is, gsxr, hayabusa, gsxr1000 singes the nineties. It’s not much and it’s even hard to see with the naked eye but it’s gonna throw you love centers off by a several degrees and the whole idea of degreeing them in the first place os to place them exact not close. Also, you explanation was kinda hard to follow, especially as you were doing your measurements of the before max lift/after max lift points. Why so many sweeps of the indicator? Why not just rotate the engine till your on max lift and zero out the indicator. It’s pretty standard in the industry to use .040 or .050” before max lift as measurement points. I’ll have to rewatch, maybe I missed your explanation. I know there many ways to degree cams, it’s like “skinning the cat”. My buddy goes .050” off the base-thru max lift-and back to .050”. Thinking back maybe that’s what you were doing, lol. At any rate the end results will be the same, the larger spread might average out a 1/2 degree more accurate or something cause your averaging a larger range. Similar to how the tdc mark on the crank gets you real close then a positive stop and sweep before and after pinpoints actual TDC averaging out the dwell at tdc that the oem mark can’t account for. Oh yeah, back to the indicator placement. I know why you have the indicator like that. In a busa engine, with the cam right above the bucket and with the diameter of bucket you can’t get a straight shot on the bucket keeping it inline with the valve and not rubbing the shaft portion of the cam. Here’s the fix, take some tig welding rod that’s sized to where it’s screw into the end of the dial indicator after removing the little ball tip. Off the top of my head I think 3/32 tig rod screws right in. Then, you just bend a little half circle with just a tiny little straight tip after the half circle. That tip is to contact the bucket. The other end play with the length and the placement of indicator till appropriate. There is just enough room to get around the cam and onto the edge of the bucket and now “track” it’s movement with the indicator and extension “lined-up”. It’s even closer but still doable on gsxr1000. The 17 up L7 gsxr1000 has finger followers and so you go right off the retainer.
Also; 0.020 is not 5 complete rolls of the TDI. What kind of clock do you have? In inches a normal one; if you use 0.050 is just half of a turn...so imagine 0.020
Well explained Rob. Wish you had this video out 5 years ago. It was the first time I had my gsxr1100 engine apart. Reading up about it, watching your video and looking at your engine for a while as you turn it over would help anyone understand what they're seeing/doing 👍
*Don't shoot me, I'm just a dummy... I made my own dead stop and put it on the lathe and machined a hole right through the middle. Also I've found the clay smith degree wheels work great on these engines* 🤘🤘🤘
My man did it. Thanks Rob. Your changing lives brother. Rob for president!
I like mounting the timing wheel opposite to what you show (numbers towards the engine). The reason is I can easily see the numbers as I turn the crank from the right side of the engine. You have the nice, big Moroso wheel so you can view it easily.
I could never do that! Glad you know what you’re doing! You make everything look easy on these bikes dude!!
*Sure you could!*
Good information and keep up the good work. Love the details and techniques of your work Do you bother to degree in the exhaust cam ? Have you tried, especially that your boosting the bike, to experiment with different can timing ? Especially widening the intake/ exhaust centerline to reduce valve overlap ? Thanks and keep tech going.
Yes I degree both. Most cases I just use factory numbers. 105/105. But you can move where peak torque and HP around by changing those numbers up or down a few degrees depending on what you’re doing.
Thank you SO MUCH for these videos!
Really, really helped me!
You're very welcome!
Another cool vid bro thx for that.👊👊💪🔥
hi there just a question would u be able to tell me if joesti is ok he hasn't posted for sometime now have u heard from him and if so is he ok ?
Salute. Thank you
Hi there. Whats happening to joetsi's turbo busa? When it will be ready to ride?
Where is the 1k hp turbo busa built?
Hello; why those wheels say "intake open" at the right of TDC? BTDC would be at the LEFT; you know; before...
I have 2 notches in the crankshaft flywheel of my bike. One is for TDC and the other is at 37ºBTDC. always stop (if I use an stop tool) to the left of the TDC mark on the wheel...
While for the most part you are doing it right procedurally, you did error in your placement of the dial indicator. Around 16:20 in the video when you go to the side view of the degree wheel/head/pointer/dial indicator extension, I could see you didn’t have the dial indicators axis in line with the valves axis of travel. That introduces a slight amount of cosine error or parallax error. You have the indicator axis vertical (as in the same axis as the head studs). Busa is 14 degree valve angle or 28 included angle. Think about what the tip of the indicator is doing as it “tracks the bucket travel. It is actually sliding ever so slightly since your not inline with its travel. Not making this up, I’ve been building these 4 cylinder gs, is, gsxr, hayabusa, gsxr1000 singes the nineties. It’s not much and it’s even hard to see with the naked eye but it’s gonna throw you love centers off by a several degrees and the whole idea of degreeing them in the first place os to place them exact not close.
Also, you explanation was kinda hard to follow, especially as you were doing your measurements of the before max lift/after max lift points. Why so many sweeps of the indicator? Why not just rotate the engine till your on max lift and zero out the indicator. It’s pretty standard in the industry to use .040 or .050” before max lift as measurement points. I’ll have to rewatch, maybe I missed your explanation. I know there many ways to degree cams, it’s like “skinning the cat”. My buddy goes .050” off the base-thru max lift-and back to .050”. Thinking back maybe that’s what you were doing, lol. At any rate the end results will be the same, the larger spread might average out a 1/2 degree more accurate or something cause your averaging a larger range. Similar to how the tdc mark on the crank gets you real close then a positive stop and sweep before and after pinpoints actual TDC averaging out the dwell at tdc that the oem mark can’t account for.
Oh yeah, back to the indicator placement. I know why you have the indicator like that. In a busa engine, with the cam right above the bucket and with the diameter of bucket you can’t get a straight shot on the bucket keeping it inline with the valve and not rubbing the shaft portion of the cam. Here’s the fix, take some tig welding rod that’s sized to where it’s screw into the end of the dial indicator after removing the little ball tip. Off the top of my head I think 3/32 tig rod screws right in. Then, you just bend a little half circle with just a tiny little straight tip after the half circle. That tip is to contact the bucket. The other end play with the length and the placement of indicator till appropriate. There is just enough room to get around the cam and onto the edge of the bucket and now “track” it’s movement with the indicator and extension “lined-up”. It’s even closer but still doable on gsxr1000. The 17 up L7 gsxr1000 has finger followers and so you go right off the retainer.
What do you charge to degree the cams if the engine is out of the bike?
Rob, keep up the good work. Return my call when you get a minute. Its Abhineet.
Also; 0.020 is not 5 complete rolls of the TDI. What kind of clock do you have? In inches a normal one; if you use 0.050 is just half of a turn...so imagine 0.020
✌️ ƤＲＯ𝓂Ｏ𝕤ᗰ