Does anyone actually roll onto their backs when falling in the gym?? They always teach it but no one ever does it (myself included) lol. Landing like a superhero can definitely make your knees sad though.
Depending on the height I will! I’ve also never experienced knee pain and I attribute part of that to rolling onto my back haha. Still down climb when ever possible though!
Yes, me! 10 years of martial arts training will give you pretty decent break falling techniques :) I teach them at my local bouldering gym from time to time, and I can happily report more and more boulderers are using proper falling techniques. I also made a video and a poster to help spread the proper falling technique, see valcursus.nl :)
Same here, depending on my falling direction/height I do. If the direction is right I even do a forward roll after an initial knee bend to prevent stopping the bend too abruptly. Last bit probably isn't as effective at stopping the forces on the knees as I'd like to think though.
I usually try to down-climb at least partway and it's not quite as important then, but I utilize the back roll anytime I fall from the top/near the top.
I love your channel! There's one video I am sure a lot of injured climbers could use, but no one has made a specific video about that. Please consider shooting a video about upper body strength training whilst having a pulley injury. I have a partial torn A2 Pulley, and I would like to do general and climbing specific strength training for the upper body. My guesses were that I could probably work on pushing movement. And I saw Buster Martin doing pull ups with a figure 8 lifting straps to avoid loading the injured finger... I think many climbers would love knowing how to keep fit (aside from core exercises).
Coming in clutch with the right info at the right time! Question: Most coaches argue that people with open growth plates should not go to failure as they have a higher risk of injury. What is your take?
When i have knee issues what works for me is training walking in steep inclinations (dirt or tarmac, no steps). Loosing weight is a big factor. Streching helps a bit too.
on a related note, can we see a video on bullet proofing ankles and/or ankle sprain recovery? im assuming there has to be a ton of climbers who suffered minor or major ankle sprains from random falls
Really like this channels videos! You’ve done the front and outside of the knee - can you please do one for the medial side, ie drop knee/valgus pressures
Yes! It's on the list -- we'll do it soon. It's actually very similar to the lateral knee video so we didn't want to do them too close together (not the most interesting content lol)
The front of *my* knee hurts because I tried the slab wall again, and banged my knee on practically every hold bolted onto the wall. Was hoping to find advice for that, but this info is also useful.
I am about to have ACL surgery. I understand that it's a long recovery and wondered if you had any recommendations to stay strong for rock climbing while I can't get on the wall? Another question, is if I take my PT seriously, when do you think the earliest I could top rope with a belayer?
You certainly can, just pay attention to the total volume of your climbing, and especially moves/movements that might create discomfort. Try to monitor the amount of falling vs downclimbing as well.
I'd say running shouldn't be really benefitial because of the impact on the joints. You might get slightly stronger, but at a higher cost. Cycling, on the other hand, doesn't have that impact, but does have the strenghtening of the quads. Anyway, I think some heavy weight squatting to develop good quads (and overall knees) is the way to go.
Good point actually, after some repeated intense (high) heelhooking where I needed to really pull with the leg, I developed something that felt like tendonidis. It ws coming back even after just a little heelhooking in the future. Long break from heelhooking helped, now I'm without pain, quite hesitant to really pull with my leg though
Same issue. I started stretching and using more range of motion during my day to day, and now my outer right part of the knee hurts. I suspect it is because it was tight/unused to begin with, but now I can not heel hook properly.
Does anyone actually roll onto their backs when falling in the gym?? They always teach it but no one ever does it (myself included) lol. Landing like a superhero can definitely make your knees sad though.
Depending on the height I will! I’ve also never experienced knee pain and I attribute part of that to rolling onto my back haha. Still down climb when ever possible though!
Yes, me! 10 years of martial arts training will give you pretty decent break falling techniques :)
I teach them at my local bouldering gym from time to time, and I can happily report more and more boulderers are using proper falling techniques. I also made a video and a poster to help spread the proper falling technique, see valcursus.nl :)
Same here, depending on my falling direction/height I do. If the direction is right I even do a forward roll after an initial knee bend to prevent stopping the bend too abruptly. Last bit probably isn't as effective at stopping the forces on the knees as I'd like to think though.
I do, even sometimes continue to roll over my head to get back on my feet:D.
I usually try to down-climb at least partway and it's not quite as important then, but I utilize the back roll anytime I fall from the top/near the top.
The note on the first minute is ilarious haha. Thanks for the good knowledge + humor ;)
This is brilliant! had a good chuckle to the improper walking haha thanks for sharing
I love your channel! There's one video I am sure a lot of injured climbers could use, but no one has made a specific video about that. Please consider shooting a video about upper body strength training whilst having a pulley injury. I have a partial torn A2 Pulley, and I would like to do general and climbing specific strength training for the upper body. My guesses were that I could probably work on pushing movement. And I saw Buster Martin doing pull ups with a figure 8 lifting straps to avoid loading the injured finger... I think many climbers would love knowing how to keep fit (aside from core exercises).
Coming in clutch with the right info at the right time!
Question: Most coaches argue that people with open growth plates should not go to failure as they have a higher risk of injury.
What is your take?
When i have knee issues what works for me is training walking in steep inclinations (dirt or tarmac, no steps). Loosing weight is a big factor. Streching helps a bit too.
Nice! Glad you found a good combination that works for you.
So much great information, great video as per usual!
on a related note, can we see a video on bullet proofing ankles and/or ankle sprain recovery? im assuming there has to be a ton of climbers who suffered minor or major ankle sprains from random falls
Good call! You're correct, ankle injuries are quite common in climbing. Ok the list!
Really like this channels videos! You’ve done the front and outside of the knee - can you please do one for the medial side, ie drop knee/valgus pressures
Yes! It's on the list -- we'll do it soon. It's actually very similar to the lateral knee video so we didn't want to do them too close together (not the most interesting content lol)
The front of *my* knee hurts because I tried the slab wall again, and banged my knee on practically every hold bolted onto the wall. Was hoping to find advice for that, but this info is also useful.
Hahaha the trick for that is to never climb slab ;)
-Emile
I am about to have ACL surgery. I understand that it's a long recovery and wondered if you had any recommendations to stay strong for rock climbing while I can't get on the wall?
Another question, is if I take my PT seriously, when do you think the earliest I could top rope with a belayer?
I love you guys ❤️
my knee makes popping sound approaching full squat. the sound seems to come from the inner side of my (right) knee. is this video about this problem?
Are anterior lunges a good warmup for the knees to prepare them for the forces they will incur when falling during bouldering
Your impersonations of wrong behaviour are great!
Not exaggerated at all, right? lol
I laughed out loud every time you showed improper walking
Hah glad you got some entertainment out of it! Credit to Emile for the ideas.
I have chondromalacia patella can I still boulder?!?! 😭
You certainly can, just pay attention to the total volume of your climbing, and especially moves/movements that might create discomfort. Try to monitor the amount of falling vs downclimbing as well.
Hey! Is cycling and/or running good to prevent knee injury? Like easy biking or easy running. Or is it bad?
I'd say running shouldn't be really benefitial because of the impact on the joints. You might get slightly stronger, but at a higher cost. Cycling, on the other hand, doesn't have that impact, but does have the strenghtening of the quads.
Anyway, I think some heavy weight squatting to develop good quads (and overall knees) is the way to go.
Cycling and running is bad. Best is to rigorously walk on medium to steep inclinations (dirt or tarmac), without steps.
Are you psychic ?! I hurt my knee a little just last week when falling off and was thinking about asking you knee-related advices 0_0! Thx anyway =)
Glad we had great timing!
Why Does the Outside of My Knee Hurt? ;-)
May be coming up in a future video :)
Good point actually, after some repeated intense (high) heelhooking where I needed to really pull with the leg, I developed something that felt like tendonidis. It ws coming back even after just a little heelhooking in the future. Long break from heelhooking helped, now I'm without pain, quite hesitant to really pull with my leg though
Same issue. I started stretching and using more range of motion during my day to day, and now my outer right part of the knee hurts.
I suspect it is because it was tight/unused to begin with, but now I can not heel hook properly.
Did he ever do a vid on this? having the same issues atm
Walk like Hank Hill's dad 🤣🤣🤣