Why it costs a fortune to fix a car! I've never seen parts cost SO much in my 30 years as a mechanic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- The customer of this 2007 Cadillac STS knew it would not be cheap to fix his car. The CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ explains what was broken and why it cost $4K to repair.
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This is my wife’s car , it was her late fathers car and it is worth more us than what it is worth so that is why we spent the money on it , thank you wizard
Makes sense. Hope it brings her enjoyment
I think you all made the right choice fixing it! I hope she enjoys it for years to come.
Post a video of it
My 58 cadillac is still on the road at 65 years old. My parents bought it in 1960. I was 1 . Tremendous sentimental value here, and yes I have spent many thousands of dollars on it, much more that its worth..BUT, its worth it to me..and now that it has become so very old, lots of people come up to me and want to ask me questions, get a good look at it etc...once at a car show some guy in his late teens early 20s come up to me and says, thats a great looking Impala.....I looked at the old girls face, and she definitely looked a little PISSED! LOL.
@@johnfranklin5277 nice car
"Fix what you have"" is great advice... but it's near impossible to find an honest & knowledgeable mechanic like The Wizard. Love your channel, Wizard.
This is the real issue, it is hard to find someone you trust that will do a good job and not have huge markups. But it can be figured out my trial and error and checking part numbers/prices on line...if you know what is wrong with the car and you have the time/resources to do so. edit(Also the Wizard is an awesome guy, I am glad Hoovie introduced us to him!!!)
This is one of the main reasons I work on my car. Almost every time I go to a dealer/mechanic they try to sell me shit I don't need. If I work on my car I can see what is good, what is starting to go out and what needs replacing/fixing. Plus, I save a ton of money and I know the job is getting done right.
That’s for sure. I’ve paid for alignments and ac repair more than once to still not have the car fixed
Always been my motto. All my old cars from the last 15 years are still on the road today.
@@Bryan921SS1 Always ask to see the old parts. Even better, mark the old parts before the repair to be sure. An honest mechanic will have no problem showing them to you.
The toughest part about repairing older cars, even ones 15 years old, is finding quality parts that aren't overpriced junk. I can't afford to put unreliable parts into the car I rely on to generate income. You touched on this in an earlier video with trying to find quality lifters for a Nova.
I doubt it’ll get better. The manufacturers and engineers that designed and built those parts are gone or onto newer things. The stock we have is the stock we have and no one is going to enter into such a high capital cost business just to sell to a niche market. The return isn’t there.
The issue with this car is actually the ever annoying electric door handles that fail constantly. So annoying to deal with and even more annoying to fix every time. I have an 05 that has gone through 3 door handles on both the driver and passenger door.
Rockauto or 1a auto has always had great parts.
I experienced this on my Lincoln Town Car. I went through 5 brand new AC compressors, 3 aftermarket, and 2 were OEM. All 5 went out and I had the entire ac system rebuilt twice in that time with 5 new condensers, flushed lines etc. I sold it because the ac went out AGAIN a year later. All crap parts!
Another way to force you into an EV.
I too am an advocate of keeping older cars going. I have a 2001 Toyota Camry that I bought 10 years ago for $2,800, when it had 110,000 miles on the odometer. The previous owners hit a deer with it and the hood was slightly dented. Also in attempting to avoid the deer they scraped along the side of a barbed wire fence so the passenger side of the car has some scrapes on it but I don't care. It's still in the exact condition that it was when I bought it except I did replace the hood with one from the junkyard. It now has 260,000 Mi on it I've done the timing belt water pump twice and replaced the radiator twice. This last time I bought a Denso radiator, an original equipment supplier for Toyota...
So my annual car purchase payment amount has averaged out to be $280 a year and that is awesome. My camRY still goes about 4,000 miles on a quart of oil runs absolutely perfect although it has just started to lose a little bit of coolant and I did the head gasket test and it is going to need a new head gasket but I don't care I can do it myself.
Let someone ELSE buy the new cars and pay the ridiculous DEPRECIATION COST so that people like us can get those cars 5 or 10 years down the road at a much better price.
Thank you for listening.
By the way, I also have a 1994 Camry on 1999 Honda Civic, and a 2005 Subaru Baja. The respective purchase prices? $550 for the Camry, $1,200 for the Civic, and $1,000 for the Subaru. All three are rust-free solid very nice Texas cars that people just wanted to get rid of❗ Praise the Lord 💫
That's because you got the last of the non interference Camrys
Over 300K miles on my 01, all it needed since new (other than regular scheduled maintenance) is a drive side door handle and driver side window regulator.
Veges. Watch out removing cam. Little spacers different thickness for valve adjustment. Keep spacers in proper order and very carefully remove stuff so spacers don’t fly all over the garage. Seen this happen. Guy took head to machine shop to get all back together in spec.
Those 4th Gen Camry's are insane reliable.
I bought my 1st NEW CAR in 1980. And I've only bought new cars ever since. I was 20 then and it was a Toyota Celica. I have no issues with buying new. I get immense pleasure from having a new car. Knowing I can jump in it anytime and drive clear across the country with no issues, or worries. I have always been a car guy, I maintain them very well, and usually trade them off about every 4 years at about 50.000 miles. The only used car I ever bought is a 1968 Mustang in 1977 from the original owner. I was 17 then. I'm 64 now. I still have it, lifelong Southern California car, its in excellent condition 289 engine, factory AC, etc...its worth around 25.000 now, but I'll never sell it. I have kept 1 car I bought new, a 1994 Trans Am, too much fun to let go of, its a keeper. Do yourself a favor, put buying a brand new car just once in your life on your bucket list. You will enjoy it.
If I had a local garage and mechanic team that I had as much confidence in as I'd have in your team at Omega, I'd do this 'full fix job' price in a heartbeat.
After 2002 that head gasket and other stuff was fixed
I just spent a little over $1,000 to repair my wife 2002 Toyota Rav4 with only 110,000 miles, a lot cheaper than purchasing a New Rav 4
Yep the local smog shop is so good thay do everything with 30 year experience love omega vids it reminds me the good shop I go to only some differences of course but same vibe!
I think this car looks very good and is in decent condition. Spend $4K to repair it. I would be proud to drive this. Sometimes people feel their car is tired looking and has worn parts so decide they "must" get a new car. However, replacing some worn parts and a car detail, your car will feel/look like new again and you'll discover you don't "REALLY NEED" a new car.
This car can easily turn into a money pit with its age and mileage. So many more reliable, cheap and easy to maintain vehicles to buy. I dumped my money pit sports car for a cheaper more reliable, easy to maintain, repair and plenty of parts because they sold hundreds of thousands of Honda Civics or Toyota’s.
Idk, Ill stick to replacing my new car every couple years
@@sunnohh _"Idk, Ill stick to replacing my new car every couple years"_
..........PFFFFFTAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAH!!
@@sunnohh, I usually swap my cars when they get dirty or the ash tray is full. Whichever comes first.
Make it a project to make your worn car look nice. If you have time that is.
But worn is better than broke.
You are 100% correct about keeping an older car in good condition and keeping it on the road for many years to come. Many would say that you check these cars thoroughly just so you can pad the bill. I am impressed that you check all these areas and ADVISE the customer of additional problems. I appreciate that you do these thorough inspections and advise the customer and the choice is up to the customer. As I have said many times before: I AM IMPRESSED AND APPRECIATIVE OF THE HONESTY AND KNOWLEDGE OF MR and MRS CAR WIZARD. I wish the best for both of you always and I really enjoy your vids and advice.
Unfortunately all cars are not created equally. This car is IMO a piece of junk and was when it came off the assembly line. This is not Lexus quality or even Honda. People make bad financial decisions all day long everyday.
I did
@@b4804514 Dude, any properly maintained car will run forever.
@@b4804514. Actually you have no idea what you are talking about. Did you own one? I had one of these, put 234 000 miles on it, replaced the tires and brakes twice, changed oil regularly, and that was it. Stay informed. Personal opinions need to be based on facts.
While I would agree, modern day Caddy's like this one, are known to pretty much be junk. They don't make them like they used to. I'd say from about 2000 onward, I would not buy a GM product as you will get stuck fixing it and it will not be cheap in most cases. You may be better off buying a new higher-end Toyota Camry or something like it, than one of these cars used (yes the Toyota is not as fun or luxurious, but it will be a better value in the end).
Depending upon what car you're looking at, $5k into repairs wouldn't even cover the markup on top of MSRP that many dealers are still getting away with.
I am waiting for the day we go back to buying straight from the manufacturer. I am tired of having to pay more unnecessary money to the middlemen including high interest rates just to borrow money.
Lets not forget how it is SUPER IMPORTANT to find a great mechanic shop like yours, because I had a few experiences where I went to dealerships and got charged 4k+ for them to throw parts at my vehicles only for the vehicles to remain undriveable. Then when I complained how much money I spent to not have running vehicles, I got told that I can either trade the cars in for basically scrape price, and buy a new car off their lit, or leave, cause the vehicles are out of warranty and it is not in the dealerships interest to work on them. They WANT you to get rid of your car. They make all their money finacing new cars. I also got told they do not troubleshoot anymore.
This this this
or jus become mechanically inclined yourself out of frustration n do all your own fixes yourself
Yeah.. I realized that you need A LOT of space for tools and to work on trucks.. Space, a backyard, and a garage I do not have.
I’ve been an automotive hobbyist for ~ 45 years, so I get a lot of questions from friends about car decisions. I too have been telling everyone who asks that it’s far better to spend $4k $6k $8k - and more if it’s a truck- to give their old war wagon a new lease on life.
So do you not know enough about cars yet to hate them?
@@actually5004if you're a fellow infrastructure reformation fan, you're showing it in a bad way
@@actually5004Lol. Says the kid with no car. Pobrecito!
@@Subreon I like cars, but as they're engineered today they aren't worth $10k new much less $25k especially since the same exact same Buicks and Cadillacs that I'm unfolding at my bodyshop are sold in eastern markets for half of what the average American pays.
@@Thomas63r2 My chauffeur laughed when I asked him what that word meant, thanks for making his day! :)
It's really paying off right now to be even halfway capable in working on your own car. My brakes felt like they needed new pads, and multiple shops quoted me 2.5-3k for all pads, rotors, and both front calipers. Did everything ourselves over a day's work, and it cost us 600 in parts. Turned out only one caliper needed replacing too. I understand that you pay a mechanic so you don't have to work outside in the heat doing it all yourself, but right now that is a luxury I cannot afford.
It more then pays! I try to do as much as I possibly can with my cars. Some stuff I just can’t do and then I’ll pay someone. But I would rather buy some tools and spend a day outside working on my car and save tons of money. I have an 05 STS4 v8 that needs some work. Have all the parts just gotta get it done before winter. It’s my winter car.
It's also rewarding fixing your own car 😊
Pretty sure your caliper was fine.
Ok
Until your factory reject "new" part fails twice in a row and you realize how valuable that warranty on parts and labor can be. Hell, I recently got all-new wheel studs on my car because the shop I took it to told me they did the tire rotate (which they obviously didn't or they would have noticed the fucked up studs from the last shop). Did that shop's techs screw up my studs? No, but they lied and because of that I got free shit.
Great reason to own a Saturn SL - they made millions, and while OE parts are becoming unobtainable, the aftermarket supported these for years profitably. Gave away my ‘02 with 400,000 miles (original clutch, exhaust and rear brakes), and picked up a ‘93 with 80,000 on the clock. RockAuto has some decent close out parts, and even regular maintenance items are cheap - name brand rear brake pads, rotors, calipers, anti-friction springs and flex brake lines under $200.
Driving an 07 Saturn Aura. She's still going like a dream with minor work.
I'm at 415k. Never getting rid of my SL. Very fun with moog springs and kyb struts.
SL are sure fun cheap agile daily drivers!
This is the new reality of gouging at every step of the supply chain.
Oh, these companies have it coming to them. Just wait, they are going to get railroaded.
Speaking about GMC Acadia... Just serviced one today with the 3.6 V6 for belt and pulleys. It has 204k miles and still original engine and transmission. The owner changes oil and fluids religiously. Goes to show that a supposedly unreliable car can last with luck and proper maintenance. I hope the see many more miles in that car.
😂 its just good luck really, I hope they did timing chains , even with good service those transmission are trash lol
If he would have bought a Toyota, he could still run on the first oil and tires.
@@heiner71stop this crap. "These cars are famous for never breaking so I don't have to do anything for them" and then it breaks. Yeah. You still gotta take care of the famously reliable cars. Like an oil change using the highest grade oil every 3k miles. Stuff like that is what REALLY makes them run forever.
Some parts cost a lot, BUT majority of the time nowadays the labor is going to cost way more. Like back in the early 2010s and 2000s, shops charged 40-60 an hour. Now a shop will charge anywhere from 120 to 200 an hour.
$200 per hour. Good grief
and they charge flat rate hr 20 minutes but you get the hour charge
Friend had trouble with his truck, Las Vegas Ford dealer is charging $250/hour. Unheard of.
Out local shop charges 85.00 an hour
$200/hour is the lowest labor rate I've seen around by me. Some are now at $220/hr. Shortage of mechanics also, my dealer has a 2 month waiting list for to get an appointment.
We all knew that when the supply chain failed during COVID, and prices went up dramatically, that the manufacturers weren't going to level out their prices, because, supply and demand. If people are willing to pay that higher price, then they'll just keep it there. Very sad situation. Thanks for the episode, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!🤘❤️🙂🇨🇦
Yep. People kept saying the price of things are going to come down. Yet for most things, they haven't.
@@saulgoodman2018Raising minimum wages baked in higher prices for everything. Add in supply chain disruption and the goofy EV push.
Great episode - I’m going to keep buying great condition used cars and paying trustworthy shops like this to keep them moving!
Just buy Toyota and Honda, stay away from American cars, European cars, no Hyundai. I am 30+ years mechanic.
@@xjssts7127
The problem with Toyota in many places is they offer nothing. Where I live it's Hybrids or go home. I would snag a conventional Camry immediately but no can't have that for some reason 🙄
I’ve got a 2007 HHR, it’s actually a very easy to fix car mechanically! My problem is that I’m a broke ass and just being able to afford the parts is tough, and that’s with ME doing the all the work. $60 here,$40 there,$100 there, another $120 there. I’m getting ten’d and hundred’ed to death 😂😂😂But I’m also slowly becoming a small time mechanic being forced to learn how to fix my own stuff!
you could just get a car payment and pay $500-$1000 every month for 3-5.
@@PeeterPuncher thats so much more money, atleast 4x more, I already paid this one off 2 years ago 😂 $500-$1k for a car payment is absolutely insane to me man. I don’t know if you’re joking or not
@@Pericles777 I...............don't think he's joking, man.
@@FourFourSeven How would be taking on a loan for $40k+ that I can’t afford be cheaper than repairing my paid off car?
@Pericles777 he was joking about the 500 obliviously but if u actually did things right on finance side u can have it at 400 for 2021
I tend to keep my cars till they die...not always. Had a 6 year old outback that at 66k needed rear wheel bearings....dealer quoted $1800!! I did them myself..took all day and about $200 for parts.
One good thing is cars do last a LOT longer than when I was young.. as long as they dont rust and you keep up on maintenance keep em and run em!
That "cash for clunkers" trash a few years ago didn't do anyone any favors. I heard they only took cars that were currently running. It seems like a lot of things adding up to get things to the way they are, nowadays. I've always advocated for keeping decent vehicles running as long as possible. I have a '98 park ave that's VERY pleasant with the 3800 engine. and a trans that no longer wants to do 4th that needs to be looked at. haha. It's still cheaper than anything remotely new equivalent.
The classic bumper sticker "dont laugh, it's paid for" has finally become words of truth!
The problem I'm running into, specifically with my mom's '97 Sidekick, is finding parts that aren't junk out of the box. And some things like a PS pump, for example, are pure unobtainium 🤷
Out of sheer curiosity, I went ahead and looked up a PS pump for that Suzuki on RockAuto.
If it's a 1.6L engine, then you're right, even RockAuto doesn't have it. The closest thing they have is a rebuild kit consisting of only the seals.
But if you have the 1.8L variant, then you're in luck because RA has them from brands Cardone and BBB Industries.
What about a clone car to use for parts… i suppose condition is everything
Hers is a 1.6 16V, by far the most common model. Strangely enough the particular pump Suzuki fitted to that year range ('95 to '97 w A/C) was only used on that car & a very limited run of Hyundais of that same vintage, from what I can find from research. The problem stems from where they transitioned to the "grand Vitara" model, evidently everything was changed, including the accessories. 🤷 go figure. I'd like to put my size 13 into some of these automotive educated idiots!
Anyway, I decided in the interest of prevailing parts availability (and in no small part to acquiescing to what she's been wanting for years) to buying her a super low miles R53 Mini Cooper. Yeah, I know but at least parts are easy to come by.
The Sidekick is gonna be put up for sale but I DID find what may be the last remaining PS pump made for that particular configuration. I should know, the damn thing was $350!!! I did keep the original just in case parts are available to rebuild it. The paint is rough however it's a damn nice car, I totally rebuilt the A/C on it last year & runs like a new one. But the parts availability is scaring me. I've put 4 starters on it inside of a year, tired of changing them! And interior/trim bits, forget it, nonexistent.
I keep my 2005 V70 on the road and it runs perfectly. People give a hard time because it is high tax and isn’t the most economical. Yet I say to them well it’s a quality car and the money I save from it not going to the garage for repair. And I have zero monthly payments so that saves £300-500 a month (estimated) and cars from my Volvo’s era and the Cadillac look far nicer than all the terrible cars now. Great video Wizard.
You can take heart from the fact that just last week on the Sytner group auction (big main dealer group that has a trade only online auction for it's part exchanges) a 70,000 mile 2005 V70 2.4 SE auto sold for over £4100. I could see minimum of £800 worth of minor prep needed straight away, just servicing, MOT and some smart repairs so this car is going to stand a dealer at nearly 5 grand before any retail mark up. Not that long ago we were retailing V70's like this for £2500. I go along with everything that Wizard says in this video; even if a retail customer were to spend 6 grand on this car it still makes far more sense than putting thousands down as a deposit on a new V90 on PCP and having payments of around £700 a month going out for 3 years on a car that you don't even own!
My S80 has 370,000km / 230,000 miles on it. Still solid after 13 years and that much driving. A taken care of Volvo will not quit on you. It does takes a liter/qrt of oil between oil changes tho 👀
I’m not a Cadillac fan, but I always liked the styling of the STS.
Totally with you. I'd hate to have to buy a new car. I make pretty decent money but with supporting a family of 4 with the insane prices of everything now there's no way I could afford any new car.
simple, just steal one 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The past five years have made me appreciate “old man cars”: specifically the Grand Marquis, Crown Vic, and the Buick LeSabre models. Great design, efficient running, low maintenance, cheap parts (ok, maybe not for the Buick but the parts last a long time)… but even these models are running low on parts. RIP Old Man Cars.
Love my '04 Corolla. Learned to maintain and repair it myself. 2023 maintenance costs so far: $332. Paid $2700 for it with 75k miles. Needed some bodywork, but that's it.
Stop being cheap and get yourself a decent new car. Nobody cares how you keep wanting to drive and dump money into your old unsafe rickety beater.
I bought my 2005 Chevrolet Impala 9c1 for $2200. It's doing good and runs strong. Getting parts through is becoming a nightmare and quite expensive. One taillight costs me $72. Also, I had to pay $300 to a local shop to fix the suspension. The gas mileage is less than I expected. It needs some body work too.
Here In Finlandia they add 12,2 to 48,8% "car tax" based on co2 emissions on top of the purchase price. Your 30k Camry is 50-60k pile here if you want any extras". Yeah I just keep my 6k pile of Alfa Romeo and have it fixed it until the end of time. 😂😂😂
Sounds like some liberal socialist bullshit. "Own nothing and be happy"
I have never been there although am from Europe...please tell me, what looks like vehicles on the road there, is it new as it is in sweden or you drive a lot vehicles from 2008 od 2004...I am from south Europe and have 08 fiesta and 05 c class both as new, and in next 10 years I am not tending to buy a car, no needed
By heart most vehicles are about 10-15 years old. Mostly Volvo, VW, Skoda in grey or silver color. It's rare to see a new car from where I live. Even expensive cars are 5-10 years old in my hometown.
@@milan1845
30 years ago an expensive gallon of automotive paint was $70 for DuPont Centari single stage enamel.
Today a quart of base can be $400, then add clear on top of that.
Not only are parts expensive but I'm seeing weird stuff happening now. I was always accustomed to hub bearings coming as a matched pair, the bearing and the race together. Now they separated them and charge for the race and bearing separately. Total cost at the counter for the bearings and seals for a 90's f350 nearly 100 dollars. Not so long ago you could rebuild a hub for under 20 dollars.
You don't mean unit bearings? Just regular old tapered roller bearings? Wild
@@spallwalker5683 correct, regular tapered bearings. You now order the race and find the part number for the roller bearings.
I agree 100%. I have a 2006 Dodge Daytona that I had repainted because of clear coat failure and got it tuned, brakes and new fan motors. It wasn't cheap but I love the car, and a new Daytona is around 64K to start.
Same situation here in the Montreal area. "Do it all" is a sentence we hear a lot these days, whereas just a few years ago it would have been "No way!" We regularly do 2, 3 and even 4000 dollar jobs. Especially on trucks.
It's not just expensive parts, but here in Oregon, some techs will add on "shop profit" to the price of a part. Example: mechanic charged me $193 for a part that cost $12 online. He charged $650 for a $200 part.
Every business will do this. If you buy a TV, computer, indeed almost anything, the retailer will have added at least 50% to the wholesale price. Having said that, the example you quote is simply ridiculous - in fact I would call it highway robbery!
Because it costs money to ship that part, time for a parts manager to order it, there is a lot of logistics that you are paying for.
That's why you bring your own parts. If he won't accept them go somewhere else.
Make sure you trust your mechanic before saying fix it all! My son has a mercury grand marquis that broke down last week 30 minutes from home. We had it towed to a shop to give us an estimate and they said it needed an alternator, radiator, and the exhaust replaced all for 6 grand! I went to go see the car for myself and was able to start it by tightening the battery terminal wire. The battery light was flashing on the dash though.
I took it to my local shop (so lucky to have an honest mechanic) and he said it did need an alternator but the radiator and exhaust are just fine. He had it back on the road the same day I brought it in for $250. Had he said the radiator and exhaust needed done I would have had him do it.
The big thing is having a mechanic you can trust. When he says something needs done I don’t question it. He has gone above and beyond for me so many times. I’m only 2 hours from car wizard, if my mechanic retires I guess I’m making the 2 drive from now on so I don’t get scammed by shady mechanics trying to charge 6k on something that needed $250 in work.
Part swapper vs Mechanic, there is a huge difference.
That's a thief company!!!!
I have a pretty good guy. Retired mechanic from Detroit who moved down here to the Arkansas Ozarks. Wish I was closer to Wizard. He's about seven hours away.
I have a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. Last summer in July 2022 the AC failed. I take my car to an independent repair shop here in Queens, NY. It needed a new AC compressor. Last summer huge parts shortage. They finally got a used AC compressor at a salvage yard in the Bronx. The used compressor still cost $350. New freon and labor and tax the whole job cost $1100. Repairs are now a fortune!!
Thank YOU Car Wizard!
I turned in my 2018 leased Silverado in 2021... You remember the car situation then, and no way was I going to pay THAT price for another.
I now drive a 2003 Buick Park Avenue, by choice. I did a lot of research before buying this vehicle. It was Car Wizard that turned me on to the GM 3800 motor, and he was correct.
I paid $2000 for the car, it has a solid body, some rust, it is Michigan, but it is solid. I put tires, exhaust, did the upper intake, brakes, struts shocks, etc... Parts are readily available, many from GM so the parts are of good quality and fit.
I think I have around $6000 in this car. Everything works and it is paid for. My insurance is $200 a year. I put gas in it and change the oil here in the driveway. I will never own or lease a new car. It is simply a waste of resources that could be used elsewhere, like buying groceries.
🙌🏽 keeping good, ol’ reliable cars alive.
I recently took my daughter's 2004 Ford Focus in to a brake specialist to have a brake problem fixed. They fitted new rear brake drums. The bill was $700 ($200 for each drum, $300 labor). When I drove the car the problem was exactly the same as it was before. I found the rear drums are $50 each on RockAuto. I believe the real problem is the brake master cylinder.
Oh man, parts are (were?) so cheap for those Mk1 Focii. Great car, cheap to buy and run. I had problems with my rear brakes too though. Hardware rusted/froze up easily... bearings were very sensitive to being torqued properly... Spent a fair amount of time on mine, rear brakes were the only thing I needed to spent time on repeatedly.
There are huge differences between cheap and quality brake rotors and drums. Cheap ones don't last long and warp very easily.
Adjust the rear wheel cylinders before you put a new master cylinder in the car. Also do a service bleed on the car before you replace parts to make sure there is no trapped air in the ABS pump. Both of those things can feel like a bad master cylinder and are very common issues.
You got ripped off…..
American car mechanics. LOL
This whole car market boggles my mind, I grew up in a lower income hole. New cars were just not something that was ever within our reach, we’ve always bought vehicles preowned. Now the gap has gotten even larger with new cars and being able to afford them. But personally I don’t think I will ever buy a brand new vehicle, I currently drive a 2017 Toyota Corolla SE I bought for 15 K with 50,000 miles on it. This just seems like so much better of a deal than I think it was $22,000 brand new and I was back at 2017. Now I really have to buy used😂😂
You're very rich compared to me. I paid 5k for a 2013 Mazda3 this year with 120,000 miles on it. There was literally nothing else available in my area, all the sub-5k cars were rust buckets or complete junk. People are asking 8k for their 2007 Civic or Corolla, it's insane.
@@noseboop4354The 2nd car I bought when I was young and broke was a 95 Acura Integra with 100k miles for $7,600. I still have that car to this day with 275k miles as my daily driver because it has been such a reliable and fun car. I have a new ish 2005 WRX that I bought for $16k as my nicer car. But I don't plan to ever get rid of the Integra because it has become a sought after JDM classic and I plan on restoring it when I can. I still get people asking me if I am selling it.
I just spent $100 in parts and fluids to perform an engine carbon cleaning, oil change and radiator service on my 2012 Toyota Camry hybrid LE with 148k miles. This $4K horror story is why I purchased a Toyota. Thank you for your videos. You remind me so much of my late father who was exactly the same type of auto mechanic that you are. 👍
Toyotas with a decent maintenance history all day, every day when you are buying used.
Funny I have a 2013 Ford f 150 with a 5.0 with 365 thousand miles and zero problems all these years later. don’t need a Toyota to get a good vehicle….also we get a lot of Toyotas in for repairs all the time. They are not as perfect as you think
Thanks sir. I have an 04 Honda Element that I bought new. While I would love to buy a new car, my wife’s illness prevents me from working. One of issues that I have encountered is parts availability. I prefer OEM parts. Luckily I have maintained the car religiously so the only maintenance that I need involve the suspension. I already bought the parts and had to wait months for the parts. Unless the car frame rots away, I intend to keep my car. Thank you so much for the information that you put forth on your channel. My only suggestion is that you should wear the wizards 🧙♀️ hat in your videos 😅
The price of OEM parts is way out of line. I need new fuel injectors four of them used to cost $34.00 now they want $71.00 for reconditioned ones and $300.00 each for OEM parts they tell me they stopped making parts fr my car in 2007 and my car and motor has been a staple since 1994.
I am thé original owner of a 1997 Honda Del Sol Si. It is my only car. It has 218,000 miles . It runs and looks great. I have not had a car payment
since 1999. The car cost me $17,000 . I just put $700 in repair of the air conditioning. It worked great for 25 years. The car still has many original parts. I am so far ahead financially on this car. I called it my mid life crisis car and I am still in it. It is a fun car. It handles like a slot
Car . It has double wishbone suspension front and rear. It has front and rear sway bars. The motor is strong and quick. It is a Sohc Vtec.
Can still get In the mid 30mpg using regular gas. It is quick with a 5 speed manual transmission and easy get to 100 per hour and cruise.
This is truly a forever car.
I've had both STS and STS_V and these cars are impossible to beat for the money. Crazy cold a/c and very good power. Highly recommend one to a prospective buyer.
I am now retired. However, the shop that I worked at is racking up big ticket repair bills because, like you said, stupid prices. Then, figure in taxes and insurance, it becomes a no-brainer. One of the issues is finding the repair parts for some of the cars and trucks.
I used to have a 06 h3 hummer ...loved it divorced... wife took it. I want to buy another older one again for the winter but I'm afraid there isn't parst for it.
Lets face it! Whats the point in buyng a new car when your 10-15 years old car do the job? Whats the reason to buy a brand new car? To show off in froint of your friends and neigbours? Its just a car, bunch of plastic and metal created to work for you, not the opposite!
I bought my 2010 SHO Taurus with 62k miles back in 2015. The engine failed at 186k miles, and I found that it was worth the $9k to drop a new Jasper Engine inside. Approaching 192k on the odometer and the car has never been better! I agree that if you already know what you have and like it, then you might as well fix it if you know it'll remain reliable for you in the foreseeable future. Thanks Wizard!
You are correct. I bought a 2008 Ford Crown Victoria P71 Police Interceptor SAP (street appearance package) October 2022. It must have been a detective or big shot car because it only had 66,000 miles and 300 idle hours. The guy I bought it from bought it at the auction. He went through everything and had the transmission rebuilt. It was good to go. It is the only car I have so, it gets
driven a lot. I took it on a road trip from Los Angeles to the Texas coast and back. I haven't had any problem at all. Just oil changes. Yes, it is flex fuel. Regular gas is about $4.80 a gallon. Ethanol is $2.89 a gallon. It now has 77,000 miles on it. Runs great.
I love mine as well. 'Ole Reliable' as I call her. These Panther platform cars are the best choice I've ever made for a daily commute car.
@@mysticstarhf9265 The Panther platform cars are outstanding. It might be difficult to find lower mileage cars since the last year model was manufactured in 2011. Although Ford did make a 2012 Crown Vic but, all the 2012 models were shipped to Saudi Arabia. Nonetheless the parts are reasonable if needed for the high mileage cars. Some
folks might wonder what fuel mileage they get since it is a big "body on frame" car. The best I got was 24 mpg on regular gas highway.
You cant go wrong when you have Crazy
D doing PR and writing up your orders. He just seems like an old fashioned honest midwesterner that is easy to deal with. We watch his tractor channel all the time. You sure can get great people to work there. Have a great day,, Bill
Cracked rims and lifters causing catastrophic engine failure is pretty damn wrong but literally every car you can buy is a pos designed like a cell phone to explode once the warranty expires.
I'm considering going to an automotive tech school after completing my electrical tech degree at school so that I can know how to fix my vehicle,and help others, being that all vehicles are moving towards all electric componenta
That will definitely help having the electrical background. Everything is modules in cars now.
Now your next problem is going to to be getting circuit diagrams from any of these -misers- manufacturers
@@JollyGiant19You can have any circuit diagrams and you will still not be able to repair a Inverter, DC-DC Converter oder charger anyway. You can do all of those if you build your own EV with DIY parts.
Neither GM, nor Ford, Lucid, Rivian or any of the other manufacturers will give you a manufacturer specific IGBT Module or specialized diodes, new circuit boards, plugs etc to be able to repair your EV. They use only few general available items like resistors or capacitors.
And then there are many SMD parts and SMD circuit boards are not made to be repairable. Those need equipment to desolder and resolder sub millimeter parts under a magnifying glass and help by robot hands. Or do you think you can place those in 1/10th millimeter? I do not.
Probably would be better off saving money and just becoming an apprentice to an older mechanic. Plenty of mechanics tell me that they don't really learn the ins and outs of fixing car until they are out in the field.
@@wolfgangpreier9160Just because you can’t do it all yourself doesn’t make it pointless! If I can do 70% myself but need a independent shop to do the other 30%, that’s a win no matter how you look at it 😃
Otherwise manufacturers would rather you just part swap or buy something new, poor options in my eyes. Not everything needs to be a perfect solution, just better than the existing state
Random price check here: GM genuine lower control arms are around $213 so with Wizard's standard parts markup that checks out. Mevotech (which is actually a quality part and includes a greaseable BJ) is $180. Moog is $156.
I love greasy bj ‘s !
GM Northstar is a great motor. love the older rear drive STS... well worth fixing in my opinion.
Car wizard hates north star engines has many videos on it.
This Northstar engine has no known problems. The older Pre 2000 Northstars are the ones to stay away from. 2000 through 2003 are good, 2004 and up are rock solid. This is the RWD version of the Northstar and shares few components with the transverse ones BTW. @@TheJ602
@@TheJ602 I get it, everyone has their opinion. I’m a fan of 8 cylinder 4 door rear drive sedans, in a world of lame Crv’s , rav 4’s and lame front drive mini utes that pose as trucks.
I love my STS. Paid about 10k to restore it (100% a rescue. It's lived a hard life) but it's been nothing but rewarding. The RWD V8 handles like a grand tourer in a sedan body. The Northstar is no joke. You're never lacking for power. But yeah everything Wizard is describing I've replaced myself or had replaced.
The Northstar is riddled with issues
@MTBPRO14 The earlier ones yes.
@@Madlux14 it actually makes sense to ask you 'which one?' There were like 7 separate iterations of the engine that GM went through. Anything with an LH2 (the one in my STS) or newer won't have head gasket issues because they fixed the bolts just like Wizard said. All of them will need to be gone through for oil leaks around 100k miles, sure. Mine needed valve cover gaskets. But mated to the RWD or AWD platforms you've got an really reliable and powerful engine. Pain in the @** to work on, though
I have exactly the same car as you. It's not perfect but it's a nice car. This Northstar has almost nothing in common with the Northstars that everyone thinks of as problematic. This engine has no known issues to worry about. it IS difficult to work on when something goes wrong though as I'm sure you know!
@@knurlgnar24 That's been my only complaint! There is a lot that you can do in your garage, but it takes longer and is more labor intensive without a lift. There were some jobs that I just had to leave to a mechanic. Wizard isn't kidding: the exhaust manifold had to come off to access some of those valve cover bolts!
SUVs in particular have have an incredibly absurd markup. Some tundras are still 100k on the lot. You can take an 2007 f150 for cheap, buy new engine and transmission and suspension, new tires and rims, send it to the paint shop and voila 20k later you have a new truck for less than 30k in total. New F150 are absurdly expensive.
I had been thinking about the same thing. At current prices your better off restoring an older car of choice. And you can even build it and customize it better than it came from the factory new.
I agree. My Ford dealer wants $60K to $70K for basic XLT F150s. That used to be pricing for F250 King Ranch. Crazy, they aren't worth that much and certainly not worth a 10 year loan.
You are right, not a lot of space in that engine bay, can make all the difference when quoting a job. Love your work Wizard and Mrs Wizard.
The later Northstars weren't bad engines. I wouldn't touch an early one for any amount of money, as well as the GM 3.6. One thing that one of my neighbors did was he bought a used F-150 with a worn out transmission and replaced it with a remanufactured one. It had the 2 valve 5.4 that was in good condition and didn't have any rust or frame damage. He could probably drive that truck for another 200,000 miles and spent a fraction of the cost of a new one.
That F-150 can last a long time as long as they treat any chassis rust and if the 3 valve engine ever give out it can simply be replaced with a better engine.
Keep the oil on the 3 valve changed constantly and you might be able to keep it running a long time.
I had a recent repair on my 2012 Cadillac SRX (I have a good mechanic)- had a bad coil (I had changed the plugs and coils only ~ 20K miles ago so it was surprising that one failed that quickly but ‘made in China’ as many parts are) and purge valve- runs like new and cost to repair those 2 items was $336- money well spent to keep it on the road as to replace it is $60K these days, and I won’t pay that. So I can see how even a more expensive repair may be worth it in the long run.
118K miles and oil changes every 5,000 miles - plan to keep it past 200K miles if I can.
Wow u couldn't do that yourself ? Lol 336 is Hella expensive when the parts for both only cost 70 total lol
And u may be planning on keeping it but sadly gm product don't last that long lol
It's not that the parts are "made in China", it's that they're literally all blemish and factory reject parts that are being sold as "new".
Thank you. I don't feel so stupid for putting more in than the 13yo Volvo's book says it is worth it last year. Plus I know its history and weakness better than any other used (or new auto). Its build quality is better than new anyhow.
Good for you. So many people don’t understand what you just said. It’s not always the value of the car vs the repair. It’s the ability to keep your current car vs what a new car costs. I am anti payment. I made my last car payment in August of 2008, I vowed to never have a payment again. So far, I have been fortunate enough to keep that promise.
@@hokie9910 , same. If I can't buy it with cash, I can't buy it. I only buy slightly used cars (2-3 years), where the first owner already took the big new car hit and also already had the initial issues he had with the new car resolved.
My late husband owned an Acadia back in the day. He would convince me to do "the nasty" in the back seat.
What a lover....
Yeah, I drive a 2010 Lincoln MKS I've had for 6 years now, and I'm really feeling like this will remain my car for pretty far into the foreseeable future, regardless of what happens with it mechanically. The engine could explode in a million pieces, and I think I'd rather get a new junkyard engine put in it than go searching for another car, new or used.
Watch out for the internal chain-driven water pump on that MKS. Keep and eye out for coolant leaking or crusty residue on the engine block behind the alternator.
If it fails catastrophically, it can mix the coolant and oil and grenade the engine.
I have a 2010 MKZ with the 3.5 (same water pump design) with 140K miles and no water pump leak yet! But on my Mom’s 2010 Mazda CX-9 with the Ford 3.7 the water pump failed catastrophically at around 85K miles so you never really know.
I would change the oil every 3K and do a full coolant flush every 30K to try and maximize the life of the seals of the water pump. Good luck! Love the MKS
I daily a 94 camry wagon. 313k miles and runs great. I replaced the engine in 2018 because it had a rough life, 1100 for a low mile warrantied engine and 700 and a good local shade tree guy to swap out the same week. Did an engine out in September for the timing belt, head gasket and other gaskets. That whole job wjth parts and labor was about $1400. Bought the car in 2017 with 190k mi and have been to 13 states in it. Shows no signs of stopping. My only complaint is its pretty damn slow lol.
@@stevenlamb8726 Oh yes, I am all too aware of the internal water pump situation and it haunts my nightmares thinking about it since I’m sitting at 160k+ miles and have not had any issues there since I bought the car at 105k miles. I’ve got the 3.5L Ecoboost model which not only am I worried about the water pump, but also the twin turbos, the cam phasers, the PTU, and the rear diff unit. I’ve already shelled out $2,100 to replace my PTU because it was leaking onto the exhaust and both my turbos leak a small amount of oil either internally or externally respectively. But I love that thing… and now that I have a garage, I’m willing to let it sit there and wait for money for repairs if it ever gets so badly broken. But yeah, I do full synthetic oil changes every 5k and have already changed the coolant and trans fluid once since I’ve had the car. Probably high time I do it again now that you mention it. But yeah, no coolant leaks as of the time I’m typing this.
@@stevenlamb8726my 2016 MKS just started leaking from the water pump. $2,500 repair quote.
You may want to start looking now because you will be replacing the engine. The way around it is to replace your water pump BEFORE it pukes engine coolant into your oil pan. A costly repair, but cheaper than another engine.
My daily driver is a 1990 Thunderbird for this very reason. The sticker price of the Thunderbird was $20,000 in 1990. I bought it in '96 used.
When the $30 and $40k cars sounded cheap to me based on my last three...The interest is what's killing it more than the price at the moment. There's a USED Rubicon 392 at the dealership my buddy is doing PDR for. Been sitting there for a month at a reasonable price for a 392. Actually I would have bought it but I had a nightmarishly expensive home repair that I can't afford the HLOC because of interest and had to pay f'n cash. Thanks for the info. You are right about fixing what you have.
@ALEXTHETRUCKINGGUY-nv1ff Dude, what is your problem? Why the same stupid response on multiple posts?
@@Dave-in-MDbecause that's a bot
@@Dave-in-MD A bot and recommend that you don't click on the link.
So true, I took my paid for Honda CRV in for work and didn't bat an eye when the repair bill was a grand. At current prices, I will only be looking for a different vehicle if my current ride is unrepairable.
The financing extending to 8 - 10 years is certainly a way to compensate for sticker shock but it is also the biggest revenue generator for dealers. That is the modern model of car dealerships - they are more in the finance and service businesses than the actual sale. The same trick for the extended warranty package. If I can make you use my service center - I can banks a little more on the overall profit potential of the car throughout its life cycle.
The dealer only gets his finance commission once; at the start of the finance term. He has to keep selling cars to survive and really doesn't want to sell his customer a new car once every 8-10 years. He needs to sell them a car about every 3-5 years and still service it during the ownership term. I don't see dealers doing well out of all this in the longer term.
I just replaced the engine and transmission in my 07 Escalade ESV for the same reasons you just stated. It helps that I am a technician, so my labor is free. For less than 2 years of car payments I have a totally sorted Escalade that rides and drives like new.
Sometimes shops still gouge you: I was just quoted $702.80 to change 6 spark plugs on my 2019 Tacoma.
That’s not a bad price, they have to remove the air box, throttle body, and upper intake manifold in order to change the 3 of the 6 plugs on one side of the engine.
good freaking god!! I can change them in my 4 cylinder 2004 ranger or my smartfortwo stupid car in about 10 minutes in my driveway.
2016 Tacoma, $6k estimate to reseal the oil pan/timing cover/rear main seal😉
The replacement of spark plugs on 'modern' multi cylinder vehicles is generally an onerous task as a number of components have to be removed to access the plugs, or at least a portion of them. The aforesaid is generally the reason why OEMs opt for plugs with a life of at least 60k miles as opposed the more frequently replaced '15k miles' type. If a workshop was quoting $700 to change the plugs on a late 1960s V8 Chevy Impala - a car that has an expansive engine bay where most components are easily accessible - then I would consider that gouging.
@@georgebettiol8338 Some of the old v engines were TERRIBLE to pull plugs out of. I would much rather pull plugs out of some of the modern stuff over the older stuff. Pulling a plenum is nothing compared to pulling plugs out of something like an s-10 in which you are doing them out of the wheel wells with a 2' extension.
Yes! I agree, if you can hold off on a new car and your current car is still a nice ride, fix it. Don’t get stuck looking down the barrel of a $30k or very easily more obligation + Insurance and higher annual registration and gas getting not cheaper either obviously.
What is cool is if you throw $5k into a $9k car, your auto insurance rate states the same but if you total it and show you recently put $5k into it, they might pay you out like $11-$12k.
I'm super happy that Wizard channel is cooking. Such a great guy!
I have a 2005 STS just like this one. They made few of these models and the vast majority had the 3.6l. Most parts for the V8 are different. When GM only sold 20k of this version total it makes the parts pretty expensive. I replaced a rear shock on mine and it was $350 for the part. I get it, they hardly make any of them so they have to charge more. Could have gotten an eBay part for under $100 but I went OEM. Not from the dealer of course, then it would have been nearly $1000 for the same part. :)
Thank you Wizard! Another great video.
Put a decent amount into suspension work and a coolant leak on my 06 Lucerne this year, worth it especially since its still relatively low mileage (60ish thousand) and the 3800 not the Northstar.
This is an example why I keep repairing and putting money into my 23 year old Chevy Express conversion van with almost 300k on it, the price to replace it is astronomical to my family and at almost 38 years old I am DONE with car payments.
The other side to consider is I think there is a brain drain for the larger jobs done by shops. I am completely against car payments, but I paid $5,000 to have an engine repaired from a snapped timing belt on a 07 Honda Pilot and I got it back with the engine smoking after it idles and the shop refuses to fix it. Before this I paid $3,500 for a transmission rebuild on another car only for it to slip 2nd to 3rd gear when it was heated up and it eventually stopped shifting gears altogether at 30,000 miles. If I could go back I would have a junkyard engine/transmission put in because I lost faith in the capabilities of my neighborhood mechanic.
I was taught to NOT do a head job on a high mileage car due to the risk of oil burning post repair. The valves seal up much better, and the weak point now is past the rings.
Automatic transmission rebuilds are not worth it. Your better off either buying a salvage transmission or a remanufactured transmission with a warranty.
@@evoman44 Rebuilt transmissions from companies can be terrible as well. They are only as good as the warranty they come with.
I refer people to a trans shop that has been in business for a LONG time and know their stuff. Their warranty is 3 years 50k. They only do transmissions.
My personal stuff, I still rebuild transmissions. I am not paying $3-4k for a rebuild installed when I can do it for $1k in parts and 5-8 hours of my time.
I bought a brand new Hyundai Elantra Nline last year here in Canada. Since I also have American citizenship, I figured it would be pretty simple to buy it in the USA if it's cheaper there. So, I ran the calculations. I was absolutely flabbergasted that the 2022 Elantra Nline in Canada is $4500 Canadian cheaper and had more features than the USA version. This is before taxes and, yes, I did the currency conversion. In short, y'all gettin' hosed down there.
As it turns out, I was in this very dilemma about a month or 2 ago. I wasn't planning on changing my vehicle for at least another 4-5yrs, if at all. However, the tranny started to give me issues for no reason. Diving deep down the rabbit hole, I found out it's a known issue and not something that will be permanently fixed. Even if you get a new tranny. Now, you start to weigh the cost of the tranny, the cost of installation, the down time you're going to have... it just keeps adding up and up and I did some quick math to see that I would be paying double what I paid for the vehicle to begin with. It's still in good shape but at the same time, I knew it was going to give me engine trouble in the not so distant future. So I decided to bite the bullet and move into something a little more modern. Took me close to 2 months and 2 bogus deals before finding an ideal situation. I'm extremely happy with my recent purchase. This will probably be my permanent vehicle for the next 10-15yrs easy. Still got it 2nd hand, but it had hardly any use.
Completely out of the norm but I'm getting used to it.. :-)
Sounds like a GM 6 speed auto (6L80/90-E?) that are in the 1/2 ton pickups (and other models). Even if the recommended maintenance is done, they are likely to fail before 150k. Gonna cost 4k+ for the rebuild.
That's why it's important to do your research first if you plan to keep a vehicle as long as possible. Every manufacturer has made bad models even Toyota. Nowadays with the internet it's more easy to research than before when you had to interview mechanics or car owners that have owned a particular car.
@@hackfabrication139 No. Not a truck. It was actually an Rx8. 🙂 A series 2 R3 actually. Was hoping with all the updates they did to it, it'll be a solid foundation for a long term car. In truth, it gave me no issues for 5yrs. Not until 3rd gear started to pop out for no apparent reason. 😞 With only 104k km's on the clock, and never being certain how long the engine will last, I decided to not roll the dice anymore. Especially if I was going to start to pay the amount of money, if not double, what the car initially costed me.
@@evoman44 Oh for sure. I waited for the series 2 of the model. Where they fixed a ton of things and redesigned others. Unfortunately there was still somethings that didn't get tested all that well... Alas, its water under the bridge now. Much happier with the replacement vehicle I found. Can't wait till next season to start to personalize it a bit. 🙂
Same over here in the UK. In fact when you take into account the dollar - pound rate its probably even more expensive here in the UK. My Wife has a 2007 Nissan X trail. We've just spent 2K on repairing it because we just can't afford the cost of replacing it and if we spent that 2k on a different car we would likely end up with a dog that would then cost even more in repairs. We both work full time and a new car is just a pipe dream. Sad times
I bought a set of Roush axle backs for my 2014 Mustang GT, and 2 shops said it would take almost 8 hours to install and wanted over $1k labor. That's ridiculous. I ended up doing it myself and it took about an hour and I've never done this.
So you just watched a TH-cam tutorial or what?
@@PoweredByLS2 Yup. The mechanic by me was full of crap
Buying a new car has never made sense to me.
The first car I properly bought and owned myself was a '98 Ford Mondeo 1.8 wagon.
I got it for $300 from a relative back in 2012. It required some fairly immediate maintenance, but served me very well as a daily driver for 8 years, before being too rusted out. Wonderful car!
Next car was a '00 Volkswagen Passat 1.8T wagon that I bought for $1000.
I used that for a little over 2 years, but it was a bit thirsty for my liking, otherwise nice.
Now I drive a '12 Peugeot 107. It's the newest and most expensive (~$3 700) car I've owned. Very sporty and fun.
Sure, not much space, but works great in the city.
I haven't spent more than $10 000 on my daily drivers in these 11 years (not counting fuel of course!).
If you need a car on the road 24/7 and have the money for it, a new or new-used (3-5 years) is the way to go. It's highly unlikely to fail if you don't pick the completely wrong make or model (any BMW lol). It makes sense in some cases but the trade-off is high finance costs. An old car will also have costs to it, some are very high some not. Low finance but potentially high one-off costs in repairs.
Also this was before prices on cars went to insane clown world mode. It makes very little to no sense right now tho thinking about it. Financing something around €40k is beyond stupid. Interest rates would kill any bank account. I bet many don't find out until the payment comes due
@@rosen9425 Yes, absolutely! If I earned 3 times as much as I do, I'd be one of those people as well.
I'm a long distance medical courier. I bought a new 2017 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid and I put in over 500,000 miles before it started needing major repairs to electrical components. Even after those repairs, it's still worth it to have this car because buying another new car or maintaining someone else's old car will be considerably more expensive.
My 2006 Ford Explorer mechanically totaled itself last year when the transmission deleted itself (well, 2nd gear and 5th gear) at 176k miles. I didn't care - I sank $5k into a remanufactured tranny, and here's why: as the Car Care Nut has said, how many miles a car has is often less important than HOW it got those miles. All else being equal, I'd rather have a well-maintained car with 250k miles than one with 150k miles that was badly maintained. I knew how my Explorer had been maintained over the preceding 4+ years and 64k miles and I considered knowing that history made it worth replacing the transmission instead of buying another vehicle that I knew nothing about.
I was shopping for a used car at a Chevy dealership recently. We walked past the service department and noticed several large containers. The salesman said many customers are opting to replace engines and transmission rather than buying a new car.
car costs in europe been pretty much like this for decades now.
imagine having to pay about 1.5-2 times of your entire years net worth income on a mid trim corolla.
no eating, no electricity, no going out, absolutely nothing for almost 2 years. just to afford whats considered there a middle class car.
All but 3 of my 25 of my cars are old. I love them all. It’s worth it to me to keep each of them alive and kicking!!
Better a new Camry than a 2007 Cadillac any of the day of the week IMHO. Plenty of good new cars for under $30k out there, it's just that they're not Caddies, BMWs or Mercedes' ;-).
Good cars for under 30, might be worth looking at the residuals! Cheap cars
Cost of my 2002 F-250 7.3 Turbodiesel was $25,000 new from the dealer lot.
I'm never letting that one go.
Yep, right with all car prices dropping, the biggest cost is that you probably aren't going to get a good deal... but the value will likely drop by $20k easy in a few years.
One thing to always consider, though, is that if a part fails at X number of miles, then there is a good chance that the replacement one might fail around then. With this specific car @ 156,000 miles, it's not a big deal if they are original parts but if you are paying $$$$ every 60k then it may not be worth it as it won't be the last time you have to fix it.
Every single OE part sold as "new" is a factory reject or blemish of some kind- I wouldn't bet on your logic.
As a fan of and daily driver of Saabs, yes it is worth repairing older cars, especially if you can do it yourself. When you really enjoy them, THAT is worth more than the ease of trade-ins where you always get less and pay more. Another upside is all the knowledge out there about them, which makes it easy to self diagnose and even be proactive to avoid common problems with the models.
I had an 05 STS wV8 AWD with almost every option except the adaptive cruise control (and HUD). It was a fun car with still the best factory audio system I've had (BOSE Studio 15). However, I replaced it with a 2007 Mercedes S550 and it has been a much more problem free vehicle for me. Yeah that's gonna blow some minds.
are you sure it was a true BOSE? High-end sound options on cars like Bowers & Wilkins, Harman Kardon etc are major money. I bet the S550 might be the real deal but that was in the $100k price range when new. I've got BOSE badges in my car (Opel Insignia GS 2018) but can't find anything in the owners manual saying BOSE anywhere tho, I swear I got badge trimmed up the rear. I had insanely better factory sound in my Golf 7🤭
@@rosen9425 My STS was BOSE. My S550 is H/K and is decent but the STS was still better overall, despite having less power. I found an old Edmunds review of that STS system and they said it was a very good system only bested by the Lexus Mark Levinson (at the time in 05).
Thanks, You and Mrs. Wizard made gave an very informative and entertainment. Great Show and workmanship!
I just put $9,000 into my 18 yr. old Daily Driver with 270K+ miles on it because I refuse to be a part of this new car stepped up sales program that makes me a slave 😢to a car payment!!
My 2011 Jaguar XF still run great. I have it for 10 years, around 130K miles, I love it. The wheels will fall off before I get another car. I can afford other cars in cash, but I'd prefer the taste and smell of saving.
I spent a lot on replacing the whole clutch mechanism on my 2010, 87,000-mile car. Now it runs like new again and the new generation of cars aren't just expensive, they're unproven, so I will pay to keep this car in good health.
The UK has "PCP" agreements where you pay the depreciation of the car with an estimated final value; if it's worth more - you can sell the car and get some of your money back, if it's worth less - you can start a new agreement/pay the difference or use an insurance scheme to cover the "gap". It's basically a subscription service running cars. Those get people in new cars at a lower monthly rate; however you are left with no real asset at the end, I wouldn't be surprised to see those in the US with how unaffordable cars are now.
Not to give you a hard time but you kept saying they “kind of” solved the North Star head gasket issue. So they didn’t really solve it??
I kept hearing that too. either they did or they didn't
I took a Land Rover into a garage for a service, after examining the bill they charged me £50 for an oil filter, I knew where they get their parts from and it was open to the public. I rang the parts centre and gave them the car details and found they would supply me the same part for £15, we as car owners get scammed on a regular basis and that needs to stop.
Not really surprised by the control arm part cost. Those are solid aluminum control arms. If they were made of stamped steel they would be cheaper. Keep on keeping 'em on the road, Wizard!
some can be rebuilt!!
I’m not surprised by the price of the control arms either, but I don’t understand why he didn’t just replace the bushings?
Sometimes labor cost to change individual parts is the same or more than a new assembly. It also depends on parts availability. Sometimes you just can't get the individual parts. @@mattl6584
@@mattl6584 Labor probably 1-2hr per control arm to have a tech replace the bushings and ball joint. Steel pressed into aluminum may not come apart due to dissimilar metal corrosion after 15 years. Risking snapping the cheap cast aluminum. Warranty for two years if a part on the arm fails it's a quick swap of the arm instead of having to get out the press. For an individual sure try your luck if you have access to a press. For a business it makes more sense to order the replacement arm.
@@mattl6584 I would say that the cost of the bushings would constitute circa 50% of the cost of a complete control arm - and then you have labour at circa $130-150/hr - so not economically viable for a workshop. It would make economic sense if the repair was performed by the owner where time is not an 'issue', however it would require the use of a press - or at the very minium, a specialist tool for extracting/inserting the bushes.
I;m glad to hear someone Finally speak up about this....I'm 63 and have been wrenching since I was 16..Ive usually had old cars, broken down, high mileage ect so learning to do my own repairs was Mandatory from an early age.The Only new car Ive ever owned is a 94 probe gt and Im Still driving it daily..My Gf drives a 2003 focus wagon with 350k mi on it,if you drove it ,you'd swear it had 60k mi on it...Ive been in shock at the absolutely insane price gouging thats going on regarding car parts.. When buying a specific oem Oring for a steering rack is costing 30.00 or a Bolt thats specific for a belt tensioner running 40-60 dollars! like WTF? In what universe could a bolt and an Oring to dare to be priced like that? whats going on here? 5.00 worth of parts at best and thats for Both..Another example: an injector for the fuel rail...a single injector priced at 275.00..a set of 6 would cost More than the worth of my car! I ended up getting the entire intake manifold with throttlebody and injector rails with 6 injectors for 40 bucks from the junkyard..so you have parts for the guy who fixes his own cars ,costing 6 times what they are worth, Imagine the poor soul who has to pay the shop to do the work and has to deal with inflated parts prices,dealer markup and profit On top of that and add in 150-175 an hr labor! Im finding it nessassary to turn to salvage yards to get any kind of deal on parts..sometimes, becuz the car is so old, thats your Only recourse to keep it running
I still want this STS with the Northstar which had the headbolt issue fixed in 2005. The oil leaks on these though 😂😂😂 The thing I loved the most about this car was the dual projectors in each headlight.
These have no known issues with oil leaks or any other major engine issue. This Northstar version is rock solid. The transmission needs service frequently as the fluid doesn't last long and many people kill them that way. The headlights ARE a known issue though. You don't want this car for the headlights. The entire front fascia has to come off just to change a lightbulb.
@@knurlgnar24 , did you even watch the video? Hell, his Northstar XLR he did everything before it went bad leakwise.
I've heard that there were improvements made to the Northstar during its production run but never out of the mouth of a mechanic.
Good to have some confirmation.
I was just watching the financial advisor named Dave Ramsey. He tells everyone get rid of the loan and get a 2 thousand dollar car. I'm not sure if he knows a $2000 car might need $5000 in work to be road worthy
He is removed from the common persons reality. He thinks you pay 2k and drive off into the sunset 😂
2k car in ny is an absolute pile of rust front to back. The subframe has holes, the gas tank is falling off and it's ready for the shreader. Years ago I bought an old 91 Cavalier 2.2 southern car, no rust for $1,800. I drove it over 7 years and sold it for $600. Those days are OVER. I wished those 2nd gen Cavaliers were still common. Cheap to buy, relatively reliable, good on gas, cheap to insure, easy to work on. The perfect beater car that would keep money in your pocket
I am sure it has been a few years since the last time Dave Ramsey bought a $2,000 car, so I am sure he isn't aware things are a little different now. I bought a 1982 Chrysler LeBaron convertible as a weekend car last year. Sure I only paid $2,500 and it runs good. However, I wanted the car to be reliable enough for the occasional road trips, not just for cars and coffee a few miles away. Let's just say I spent more than $5,000 catching up on deferred maintenance on a 40 yo car. Sure Mopar parts is nowhere as expensive as Audi or Mercedes, but as the Wizard said it adds up quick. It is also true I don't see the difference in labor cost between fixing this car from fixing the Audi I used to own.
@@r.l.strange1897 I said the same thing
@@peterchen9763 i have a 2003 pontiac bonneville SSEi with the 3800 supercharged (i do not drive in the winter). we also have a 97 grand prix L36 3800. the car i drive in the winter is a 2022 crosstrek.
those 3800's are ultra reliable, but their numbers are dwindling. fewer and fewer on the used car market every year. i will keep them both until i cant, they are both paid for and i can drive them anywhere.
I use to buy old cars, about $1200 - $1500, and drive them for a minimum of 5 years, some went to 6 years before I sold them. I saved so much doing that. I decided to purchase a new car in 2013, still have it. It's best to find a good car and hang onto it, especially today.
I notice so many getting rid of a reliable car after a few years, just so they can have the latest and the greatest. All they're doing is keeping themselves in debt for basically the same car, as for The people that aren't in debt, they just like to throw their money away every few years, it's a farce.
Starve our and break the working class in America. Worse times ahead unfortunately.
Wizard you are as always completely on point with the price of parts increases. Here’s the layman’s term for it we’re getting ganked !
I want to buy a newer truck, but happy with my 23 year old FBody as it's paid off and parts aren't outrageously expensive on most things (plus I can do most of the work). Once the dealers get more affordable pricing and interest comes back to earth, maybe I'll consider purchasing then
Just stick to what you got. Trucks are the money makers at the moment so unless you’re profiting off the use of your vehicle it’s just a lot of money for a highly marked up vehicle segment.
Gone are the days of trucks being the basic, cheap choice; even in the midsize segment!
I've got a 96' XLT and a 90' XLT F150. I've been offered $25,000 for the 96 and $6000 for the 90'.
Just bought a 1998 tacoma 4wd 5 speed v6 160k miles one owner for 10k people say im crazy thats a 6000$ truck i said sure good luck with that looked at new ones said no way