While I love the multi-part repair videos, short repair videos like this one are great because you show just what someone needs to fix their scope. Keep up the amazing work!
That is very helpful feedback. Thank you! The final step in all my videos is to go through and cut out any "dead air" time so it encapsulates only the steps (or discoveries).
Great! I'm looking to mod a heritage scope with a new 3D printed spider and focuser, and the title caught my attention. Lots of good ideas here if I flub up my mirror. 😅
As you're showing the differences between Billy's and yours, I first thought, "they're using up spare parts for the last run", but as you got farther along it appears to me that the changes are both some cost cutting measures, but also perhaps they started making changes recommended to them from the myriad of Library Scope programs across the country. Eliminating the external secondary vane knobs, eliminating the collimation lock knobs in favor of phillips head screws to discourage users tweaking things, recessing the collimation knobs in the bottom of the OTA to better keep it in collimation as they scopes get banged around. Nice!
That is a very good point. The Library Telescope program came to really rely on this robust telescope. I wouldn't be surprised if their feedback helped rework it. I'll admit the front one-piece setup was very solid. I did not consider that the phillips head screws were a possible way to reduce tampering!
Thank you for this video. Another difference between the older version & the newer one is that the screws holding the primary mirror cell in place have nuts on the inside holding them in. This gets tricky when trying to remove the primary mirror to clean it because the nuts can fall into the tube. I ended up loosening the mirror nobs & tension screws to create a gap & give me room to reach in, & I carefully used tweezers to hold the nuts while I loosened the screws. It was also tricky to manage the tiny nuts when I put the cell & screws back in place. I called Orion at the time, & they knew nothing about the change in design.
Aha! I understood what you meant in the title as soon as you finished the initial explanation, prior to the unpacking experience, I've done that myself.
Thoroughly enjoy your videos, John. Maybe because you "gitter done" in a garage that is cluttered, like mine. I also wanted to let you know that I finished your books; they were a fun read and full of little tidbits that made me go, "Hmmm." Thanks for your endeavors. They certainly enrich and entertain.
Thanks! I cannot convey how cluttered my workshop is "behind the camera". The camera is now standing were a large telescope was taking up space (I finally found a new home for it).
What are the chances that the secondary fell off and didn’t scratch the primary? Talk about a 1 in a million! Great repair video! I’m betting “Billy” will be quite happy with the outcome.
Strangely Amazon Canada is selling Orion scopes but Amazon USA isn't. I managed to pick up a used Starblast off Ebay. When Allan Hall reviewed the Orion 90mm refractor he noted that many of the parts were now plastic. Sort of like your older Starblast vs the newer one.
Just curious, why did you use the heavier, nominally scratched secondary instead of the new one? Also, since there were voids on the secondary mount I was surprised that you applied the silicone to the mirror hoping to hit a solid spot on the mount rather than the other way around. Always look forward to your videos.
That's a very good question. There's two reasons why I used the original. I don't think the scratch was consequential enough to cause any visual problems. Second, the new mirror was actually thinner which would've meant the location measurements would not have properly transferred to the new mirror. As for where/how to put the silicone on, I think you may be onto something. Every secondary holder I've ever repaired was solid, so this one sortof caught me by surprise and I went with my "old set-in ways". However, next time I will apply the silicone to the secondary holder (especially if it has those crevices).
In your experience what is the most common thumbscrews you use for a secondary mirror for a telescope like that one? I want to replace the screws of the secondary mirror of one of my telescopes, a 114mm with 1000mm focal, also the locking screws of the primary mirror, what do you suggest?
For small telescopes, I usually don't splurge on the upgraded knurled thumb screws, mainly because the heads are large enough that they are visible beyond the edge of the secondary. You can get the exact size screws you need at BobsKnobs.com. If he doesn't have the exact model/part number, you can search around Amazon for them too. Note: They are almost always metric threads.
i would have put the silicone on the holder and and attached it to the mirror, all of the frame work and pockets is probably why the tape failed, putting the glue on that part would ensure there was good contact.. watching your videos has inspired me to upgrade my 70's .965 eye piece scope to a 1.25, im not to keen on drilling new holes but when the part arrives i'll make the decision.
Thank you, Mr. Dreese! Another excellent video, many thanks, SIR! Also many thanks on the adhesive advice because glue is a 'sticky' subject. I'll be ordering a tube of that. BTW, I know you're a *very* knowledgeable guy so do you know about Gary Seronik's "Double Plate Mirror Cell"? It looks like a great replacement or upgrade. I'm planning on building one for my Orion StarBlast 6, when I get one of those 'round toits'. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
@AstronomyGarage You’re welcome. By the way, that masking tape fix for the focuser has worked like a champ. Thanks for that tip. And, if you use the blue tape, you get a splash of color! 😜 If you ever want to do a more comprehensive video on collimating a StarBlast, I’d appreciate it, because I struggle with this. I don’t have a laser collimator and use the pinhole cap that came with the telescope.
@@dff19707 I have an extra tip for you on the focuser fix. Spread a very thin layer of silicone grease on the outside of the tape and it works even better. Mine (after years) got a little bound up and the grease fixed it. With regard to collimation... I am planning out a three-video series just on collimation, from simplest (just your eyeball!) to the best (laser collimator, cap, and Cheshire). I want it to be good, so it's taking quite a bit of planning.
@@AstronomyGarageI have been colimnating for years and just recently was schooled on "secondary offset" by someone on Cloudy Nights. It is a very unintuitive concept where you do not geometrically line up the center of the primary with the center of the diagonal and center of the eyepiece. I don't exactly understand, or even believe the concept 100 percent, but it does seem to be a thing among amatuers that you would exoect to be informed about such matters. I don't know if you have ever heard of this, but if you have, I would be interested to know if you think this colimnating approach is consequential, or even valid.
Well, "Billy" is sure gonna be chuffed, now that he has his mirror installed, and some nice knurled locking screws. If the ones from Amazon shouldn't arrive on time, you can always swap his Philips head screws for your knurled ones, and reinstall yours when the replacements arrive. Ps: am I the only one who thought of the game "operation", or however it's called in the US, when the title card read "removing Billy's spider"? 😂
Yeah, I remembered that right, the game is called "operation" over there. Locally, it's been translated to "Dr. Shakes". Because you need a steady hand, I guess. And yes, I just realised how appropriate the comparison is. After all, what we witnessed, gentlemen, is nothing short of expert level telescope surgery!
![How To Clean A Telescope Mirror: The Step By Step Guide [ 8" Reflector Telescope ] by Reflactor](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wtc53Br_96g/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Clean A Telescope Mirror: The Step By Step Guide [ 8" Reflector Telescope ] by Reflactor](/img/tr.png)
While I love the multi-part repair videos, short repair videos like this one are great because you show just what someone needs to fix their scope. Keep up the amazing work!
That is very helpful feedback. Thank you! The final step in all my videos is to go through and cut out any "dead air" time so it encapsulates only the steps (or discoveries).
Hi john! Clearly the older model is better quality! Clear skies!!!
Great! I'm looking to mod a heritage scope with a new 3D printed spider and focuser, and the title caught my attention. Lots of good ideas here if I flub up my mirror. 😅
As you're showing the differences between Billy's and yours, I first thought, "they're using up spare parts for the last run", but as you got farther along it appears to me that the changes are both some cost cutting measures, but also perhaps they started making changes recommended to them from the myriad of Library Scope programs across the country. Eliminating the external secondary vane knobs, eliminating the collimation lock knobs in favor of phillips head screws to discourage users tweaking things, recessing the collimation knobs in the bottom of the OTA to better keep it in collimation as they scopes get banged around. Nice!
That is a very good point. The Library Telescope program came to really rely on this robust telescope. I wouldn't be surprised if their feedback helped rework it. I'll admit the front one-piece setup was very solid. I did not consider that the phillips head screws were a possible way to reduce tampering!
Thank you for this video. Another difference between the older version & the newer one is that the screws holding the primary mirror cell in place have nuts on the inside holding them in. This gets tricky when trying to remove the primary mirror to clean it because the nuts can fall into the tube. I ended up loosening the mirror nobs & tension screws to create a gap & give me room to reach in, & I carefully used tweezers to hold the nuts while I loosened the screws. It was also tricky to manage the tiny nuts when I put the cell & screws back in place. I called Orion at the time, & they knew nothing about the change in design.
Aha! I understood what you meant in the title as soon as you finished the initial explanation, prior to the unpacking experience, I've done that myself.
Thoroughly enjoy your videos, John. Maybe because you "gitter done" in a garage that is cluttered, like mine. I also wanted to let you know that I finished your books; they were a fun read and full of little tidbits that made me go, "Hmmm." Thanks for your endeavors. They certainly enrich and entertain.
Thanks! I cannot convey how cluttered my workshop is "behind the camera". The camera is now standing were a large telescope was taking up space (I finally found a new home for it).
What are the chances that the secondary fell off and didn’t scratch the primary? Talk about a 1 in a million! Great repair video! I’m betting “Billy” will be quite happy with the outcome.
No doubt! Not only that, but the double-stick tape landed on the SIDE of the primary mirror. As you say, one in a million.
Strangely Amazon Canada is selling Orion scopes but Amazon USA isn't. I managed to pick up a used Starblast off Ebay. When Allan Hall reviewed the Orion 90mm refractor he noted that many of the parts were now plastic. Sort of like your older Starblast vs the newer one.
Just curious, why did you use the heavier, nominally scratched secondary instead of the new one? Also, since there were voids on the secondary mount I was surprised that you applied the silicone to the mirror hoping to hit a solid spot on the mount rather than the other way around. Always look forward to your videos.
That's a very good question. There's two reasons why I used the original. I don't think the scratch was consequential enough to cause any visual problems. Second, the new mirror was actually thinner which would've meant the location measurements would not have properly transferred to the new mirror. As for where/how to put the silicone on, I think you may be onto something. Every secondary holder I've ever repaired was solid, so this one sortof caught me by surprise and I went with my "old set-in ways". However, next time I will apply the silicone to the secondary holder (especially if it has those crevices).
That didn't occur to me. The thinner mirror would shift alignment, so no sense adding a variable to the already solved equation.
thanks again John for a great repair job that alot people will find handy
Thanks Joe!
Spectacular repair guide!
You were very wise to point out the use of business cards as standoffs. Playing cards can also be used.
Thanks! Did you recognize where the business cards were from?
@@AstronomyGarage
Like I wrote, "you were wise to point...".
It's not as funny when you have to explain it. 😉
@@dbgarlisch Haha, I was slow this morning. :)
In your experience what is the most common thumbscrews you use for a secondary mirror for a telescope like that one? I want to replace the screws of the secondary mirror of one of my telescopes, a 114mm with 1000mm focal, also the locking screws of the primary mirror, what do you suggest?
For small telescopes, I usually don't splurge on the upgraded knurled thumb screws, mainly because the heads are large enough that they are visible beyond the edge of the secondary. You can get the exact size screws you need at BobsKnobs.com. If he doesn't have the exact model/part number, you can search around Amazon for them too. Note: They are almost always metric threads.
i would have put the silicone on the holder and and attached it to the mirror, all of the frame work and pockets is probably why the tape failed, putting the glue on that part would ensure there was good contact.. watching your videos has inspired me to upgrade my 70's .965 eye piece scope to a 1.25, im not to keen on drilling new holes but when the part arrives i'll make the decision.
That's a great idea. The usual ones have a solid face wall, but it would make a difference on this plastic one.
I bought something similar to replace the spider of my 8" (203mm) Skywatcher Newtonian with a piece of milled aluminium.
It's a nice bit of work.
Good craftsman. Can’t help wondering if the precision spacing w the dimes makes much difference because the scope looks cheaply built.
That's a good question. My goal is to remove as many variables from the situation as possible.
Thanks for another great video. Really enjoyed this one, but I wonder if Amazon sent the chrome screws to Orion.
They never arrived, so it will always be a mystery, lol.
Thank you, Mr. Dreese!
Another excellent video, many thanks, SIR!
Also many thanks on the adhesive advice because glue is a 'sticky' subject.
I'll be ordering a tube of that.
BTW, I know you're a *very* knowledgeable guy so do you know about Gary Seronik's "Double Plate Mirror Cell"?
It looks like a great replacement or upgrade.
I'm planning on building one for my Orion StarBlast 6, when I get one of those 'round toits'.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
I have not heard of the double-plate mirror cell, but you have certainly got me curious about it!
Nice work.
Thank you for watching!
I have phobia of the secondary coming off my skywatcher 8dob , don't know know how secure it is against gravity and vibration.
Normally they are pretty secure. I've only heard of this happening twice.
I bought my Orion Starblast brand new in mid-2021. It’s like yours, so the revisions to “Billy’s” likely occurred post-2021.
Thank you. That helps confirm the timelines (I don't know exactly when mine was made).
@AstronomyGarage You’re welcome. By the way, that masking tape fix for the focuser has worked like a champ. Thanks for that tip. And, if you use the blue tape, you get a splash of color! 😜 If you ever want to do a more comprehensive video on collimating a StarBlast, I’d appreciate it, because I struggle with this. I don’t have a laser collimator and use the pinhole cap that came with the telescope.
@@dff19707 I have an extra tip for you on the focuser fix. Spread a very thin layer of silicone grease on the outside of the tape and it works even better. Mine (after years) got a little bound up and the grease fixed it. With regard to collimation... I am planning out a three-video series just on collimation, from simplest (just your eyeball!) to the best (laser collimator, cap, and Cheshire). I want it to be good, so it's taking quite a bit of planning.
@@AstronomyGarage Thanks for the additional tip. Good to know. I look forward to your informative videos on collimation.
@@AstronomyGarageI have been colimnating for years and just recently was schooled on "secondary offset" by someone on Cloudy Nights. It is a very unintuitive concept where you do not geometrically line up the center of the primary with the center of the diagonal and center of the eyepiece. I don't exactly understand, or even believe the concept 100 percent, but it does seem to be a thing among amatuers that you would exoect to be informed about such matters. I don't know if you have ever heard of this, but if you have, I would be interested to know if you think this colimnating approach is consequential, or even valid.
The old spider is much better.
It does have more side-to-side adjustment.
This is why I stick to refractors.
Refractors do have many benefits.
I mourn the loss of Orion. Too many affordable items that are now more difficult to find.
These Starblasts were the chosen scope for the Library Telescope Program. Fortunately, Zhumell makes a similar model.
Well, "Billy" is sure gonna be chuffed, now that he has his mirror installed, and some nice knurled locking screws. If the ones from Amazon shouldn't arrive on time, you can always swap his Philips head screws for your knurled ones, and reinstall yours when the replacements arrive.
Ps: am I the only one who thought of the game "operation", or however it's called in the US, when the title card read "removing Billy's spider"? 😂
Yeah, I remembered that right, the game is called "operation" over there. Locally, it's been translated to "Dr. Shakes". Because you need a steady hand, I guess.
And yes, I just realised how appropriate the comparison is. After all, what we witnessed, gentlemen, is nothing short of expert level telescope surgery!
Haha, thanks! It felt like surgery pulling the old mirror out of the tube without doing any more damage.
"We'll call him Billy..."