awww, that suck. It happens though. I'm in the middle of trying to resurrect a Sony Multisync 1024x768 monitor from 1991, and I've hit may snags. It has this clever little deflection control board to bin the incoming resolutions that was filled with not-so-clever early SMD electrolytics. I had to remove all of the tiny resistors and transistors from the front of the board to get rid of all the electrolyte
If you get the "no frills" ULA replacement, it would be interesting to see the "one frill" that's been added: The ability to shadow the lower 8K RAM and run it at full speed, similar to how the Turbo Driver worked back in the day. Then it'll be a new AP5 for a hard disk, mouse and co-pro... :-)
@@RetroBytes_BitsBobs You mentioned in the video that you swapped ULAs between machines, and the one from the broken machine caused a working machine to not start up, whereas the one from the working machine caused the broken machine to start up. Meanwhile, on your video capture of the broken machine, there is a red/yellow pattern produced. However, there has been a case of a similar failure being rectified by cleaning the ULA contacts and adjusting a spring element in the corner of the socket. I've been trying to catalogue failure displays and to see if we can infer anything from them. Previously, people would just call "bad ULA" in these situations, but in several cases the cause was found to be something else: connectivity, RAM or ROM. Someone even got one of the new reimplemented ULAs, only to discover that it didn't work, either. It eventually proved to be the ROM, and they ended up with a choice of working ULAs instead!
Someone I know has a spare ULA for a rev4 electron, so when we next meet up he is going to bring it with him, so hopfully I'll have a working electron.
awww, that suck. It happens though. I'm in the middle of trying to resurrect a Sony Multisync 1024x768 monitor from 1991, and I've hit may snags. It has this clever little deflection control board to bin the incoming resolutions that was filled with not-so-clever early SMD electrolytics. I had to remove all of the tiny resistors and transistors from the front of the board to get rid of all the electrolyte
If you get the "no frills" ULA replacement, it would be interesting to see the "one frill" that's been added: The ability to shadow the lower 8K RAM and run it at full speed, similar to how the Turbo Driver worked back in the day. Then it'll be a new AP5 for a hard disk, mouse and co-pro... :-)
😬 Ouch. That's a bit of a bugger! I wonder what caused it to fail. Power line glitch maybe?
Saddly its not that uncommon for the ULA in the electron to fail. It was right on the edge of what farantti could manufacture at the time.
@@RetroBytes_BitsBobs You mentioned in the video that you swapped ULAs between machines, and the one from the broken machine caused a working machine to not start up, whereas the one from the working machine caused the broken machine to start up. Meanwhile, on your video capture of the broken machine, there is a red/yellow pattern produced.
However, there has been a case of a similar failure being rectified by cleaning the ULA contacts and adjusting a spring element in the corner of the socket. I've been trying to catalogue failure displays and to see if we can infer anything from them. Previously, people would just call "bad ULA" in these situations, but in several cases the cause was found to be something else: connectivity, RAM or ROM.
Someone even got one of the new reimplemented ULAs, only to discover that it didn't work, either. It eventually proved to be the ROM, and they ended up with a choice of working ULAs instead!
@@paul_boddie I've cleaned the contacts with IPA on the ULA and the socket, which did not bring it back to life.
Someone I know has a spare ULA for a rev4 electron, so when we next meet up he is going to bring it with him, so hopfully I'll have a working electron.
Hi!