It was a great video .I just bought 2 of these units ,there was no paper work to show how to use them , thanks to you now I can use it in my solar project . God bless
Thank you! The instructions I received skipped all of the P settings, and I thought my unit was broken (but actually set to the default C, not H what I needed.) Very easy to follow and thorough.
You just stopped me complaining to the seller on ebay because my one was working backwards to how I wanted (was on cool, not heat). Another great video, very glad I subscribed. Thank you :)
I bought this and I didn't know that hysteresis can be adjusted. I dont want my AC to go wild turning on and off with default 2 degC. Good I found your video. Perfect!
These relays are great. You can make very nice temp controller for very little money. I control my intercooler fans on my turbocharged Land Cruiser , it works very well.
@@anandjoshi8554 It depends... If you build a nuclear reactor, then you probable need something more sophisticated... I used them in many different applications like turning my intercooler fans on my Jeep. I also used them in my cooler room as thermostat. They work and work ok.
@@justlife2129 Which connector would fit to blue colour relay modules in place of jumper /dupont / berg housing connectors ?? (2.54 mm pitch ) good firm connection
very helpful video! I purchased several of these about four years ago but need to reset it. your video helped me, because I could not remember how to set it up.
@@anandjoshi8554 well I guess it depends on the project. If it’s Nuclear reactor or a guided missile project, or a human cryogenic freezer then no! But for anything else yes, they work great. I have six of them and they work great.
I take this time to thank the woman who gave birth to such a son. Man you are a blessing. All your videos are impressive and very informative please keep up the good work. Message frm South Africa.
I bought the thing online and it came with no instruction at all. Hardly any info can be found online as well. But thanks to your video, the thing is all properly set now. Thanks for the detailed instruction.
The W3001 controller available for $3 works quite well, this seems to have similar function except it works off 120VAC, and switches the line to the output. Button user interface is different, with a low and high threshold setting used to control turn on and turn off for both heating and cooling, with the hysteresis determined by the delta between the two settings. Very useful. The cheap version uses thin gauge wire presoldered to the unit instead of screw terminals, so I just changed them to handle higher current. It does come with a housing, so it's more complete and ready to use. Modified one to get isolated contacts to switch a logic level signal rather than 120V.
Well done! Just a safety comment if I may. If you connect a test load as shown in the video be aware that 120 - 240 volts will be exposed on the back side of the circuit board. Use caution, or perhaps test with an LED and a 1K resistor in series with the relay contacts.
I have only one question that no seller can answer, but if the 12 volt DC power is lost, then you loose your settings and have to start again. I am guessing this because they list “Static Current” of less-than 35mA. I looked to see if someone ask the question and watched the entire video as well. As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, at 62, I still like to learn, but truthfully want to use it for a fan over my transmission cooler. I enjoy your explanation & the equipment you use and describe your findings. If this was a hobby, I would not own a Fluke 87 V digital multi meter. I tell people asking wiring issues on vehicles to use dielectric grease where exposed to water/moisture but also good grounds and these “Star” washer to dig into the metal. Most forget the ground side on a vehicles chassis and using voltage drop as a diagnostic tool. Thanks again for your clear videos. I am saving this one for myself!
Hi Dean, The settings are saved when power is disconnected. Your assumption is correct on the amount of current. thank you for sharing your thoughts. stay safe.
@@robojax Thank you so very, very much! The “Static Current” they refer to must be the amount of current this device consumes when on, digital display shining, just no “On-Off” activity. I intend to use an external relay to operate my fan. This makes the current requirements on the boards relay very low, actually making its relay last longer, because it operating the coil of an 80 ohm relay. Most eBay or amazon seller do not have the product nor ship it. The payment is sent with my address and is sent form another location. I saw this device will hunting for info on it. You did a wonderful job showing both different voltage and current levels. Even noise on the out put was a bonus, important to some, but will not affect my use. Oh many blessings on your effort as video are work too. It looks like tape would hold down the NTC thermistor when the heat gun is blowing it around. I had plans to place it in the back of my custom console. It would not be fun to re-set it once power is shut off. Once again, thank you so much!!!!
Thank you soooo much for your video and help! I got mine working because of you and all the incredible information you have given. Thank you soo much again. You deserve a lot more credit and recognition for your work. Happy new year. Keep up the great work
Ty sir robojax... very informative.. very easy to install. Ordered another batch of this device for my incubator projects.. this is very useful for us beginners.. more power sir robojax...
You are welcome. The best thank you for me is to not skipping ads and Subscribing 🔔 to my channel, and liking 👍 the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊. I will reply to all Subscriber's 🔔 questions. So make sure to Subscribe.😊 .
You are welcome. See my videos on other better sensors th-cam.com/users/robojaxTVsearch?query=temperature Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
Great video. Question: I will be connecting this thermostat to a relay in my truck (12V). When the power is disconnected from the thermostat module (via relay) will the setting on the module remain at MY settings or will they default to a factory setting when relay restores the power to themastat module? Thank you.
A great way to test the controller is to tape the sensor to an incandescent lightbulb. These lightbulbs get hot when turned on and cool down fast when they are turned off. In the HEAT mode the controller will turn the bulb on and off causing a cool flashing. Don't do this with an LED bulb as they don't get hot enough.
Thanks a lot for the video. I got this for a project of mine and I'm trying to find if it's possible to program it so that the + - increments go by 1 degree instead of 0.1. Also, is there a way to program it so that it is on for a certain amount of time? Thanks again!
Thank you for the great video and feedback on the comments. I purchased this controller but didn't use it because I was confused how will it know if the setup is to heat or cool. Things are very clear now.
Thank you for your recent reply. What is the useful function of the Upper Limit; Lower Limit, and Correction settings ???? These are not explained well anywhere I can find. Looking to set my Greenhouse 'ON' Trigger for the FAN at 29C, in COLD MODE; I discovered setting the module to 27 C, with the Backlash at its default 2C = 29C. That has the FAN turn back off at 27 C; which works for me. (Alternatively, if I set Backlash at 1C, the fan switched on at 28C, and off at 27C). Upper and Lower Limits seem to be the total range in which the module will do anything; and their use escapes me. For example, I initially tried using the Upper Limit for trigger temperature, and nothing worked. It seemed to lock out the module. The use for the 'Correction' mode is also not obvious . .... Correction from what ?? Is there a manual or some other more complete document out there on the operation / use cases for this module ?
What is your opinion about connecting a reverse diode across the Relay terminals, to protect the contacts from potential Back EMF ?? I am switching a 12Volt 1.5A DC Fan, so a 1A rectifier should do the trick. Thank you for an awesome explanation. It was a life saver, since product ships with absolutely nothing in the way of instruction from Amazon.
Hello, is it possible to connect a heater(polyamide, for instance) and heat something throughout a certain period of time, with a fixed temperature and then it goes off when the time limit is reached?
Very good explaining video... One question, can I run a 12v input into the power feed (Positive and negative) then a 12v power source into k0 and 12v appliance into k1?
Hi nice hardware , i was thinking if insted of lamp i run a pump cycaling water into a radiator ( not neccary just for the example ) to cool down viaclhle motor . and the sensor positaion inside the radiator . if the tempuraute goes high , above setpoint . the relay close and the pump circate. and i zm curios if there is option to aplly PID . so the pump motor doesnt turn off imadatlly , but slow down when the mesurment is 2% close to the setpoint . sorry for my spelling mistakes . thanks Netael
Hi, this is very simple timer. if you want to have full control, then use Arduino shown here th-cam.com/video/yJYXfaU9J34/w-d-xo.html if you don't know about Arduino, here is my course worth $200 on Udemy is available for free on TH-cam here bit.ly/arduinoStepByStep
I have not see such thing. But you can buy very cheap boost converter where you can input 5V and it will boost it to 12v. I have video in that . Search my channel
@@robojax Thanks. I later saw that the solid state relay would work with an input trigger voltage anywhere between 3V to 30V to switch on high (resistive heater) loads, so no worries.
Need some advice, I want to use one of these with 2x12v DC fans. Can I splice into the 12v DC power lead supplied for the fans to also power the controller?
Hi, thank you for the detailed video. I have been using this module to control a greenhouse misting system to cool down if it reaches a certain temperature. It’s been working well up until I needed to disconnect the power supply and after reconnecting the temperature reading continues to rise up to 110c despite no significant increase in room temperature. It does this even without the temperature sensor connected. I have also tried resetting the unit with no change to result. I purchased a second unit and have had it connected for 3 weeks before it started doing the same thing. Have you experienced this and might you be able to offer some direction to fix? Thank you.
Hi can you jump 12v to k1 and put the positive of the device needing to be powered (say a 12v water pump) to k0 and the negative of the pump to the gnd supply of the module?
I have often had a problem when I want to power this from a 12v regulated power supply... the temperature jumps up and down several degrees every second, and if the temperature is close to the the set point, the relay will randomly click on and off and on and off because of these fluctuations in the temperature reading. I tried using an additional 12v linear voltage regulator together with lots of different sized capacitors, and even tried lowering the voltage by passing it through a couple of diodes. Nothing really helped. My voltmeter was reading a constant 12.2 volts, so I don't think the voltage was actually fluctuating any appreciable amount, but whatever tiny bit of leftover ripple was left in the incoming supply was continuing to cause these fluctations in the temperature reading, and the unstable relay response would not stop. Initially the only thing that fixed the fluctuations was to run the thermostat from a completely separate 12v battery instead. (Not practicle for permanent installation of anything.) But then I tried something else that totally fixed all the fluctuations without having to run it on a battery: I put a small value capacitor across the leads for the thermistor. Works like a dream! No more random fluctations in the readings, and no more random clicking on and off of the relay! Perfectly smooth operation now. I used a 4.7 uf capacitor rated for 25 volts, but any small capacitor will usually work, as long as it is rated for 12v or more. So if you are having issues with a jumpy temperature readout, cut the thermistor wires somewhere convenient, and splice in a very small capacitor. Or if you would rather put the capacitor directly on the board, there are two nice solder points right next to the sensor connector you can use. The top side is positive, and the bottom side is negative. I tried a .1 uf capacitor and it worked just as well, but I went with the 4.7 uf because I might need the other one for something else. So the value of the cap is not hypercritical.
Bro it would be amazing if you can somehow share a picture or make a video of it. There are tons of people that want to get rid of this issue and your idea is brilliant!
if you want higher temperature and custom display with proper functionality, then you build your own. I have shown it here th-cam.com/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/w-d-xo.html
Very thanks for this great video, actually I'm looking for a compact module like this to control temperature between something around room temperature to around 300c using thermonuclear type k or whatever that can handle that temperature. I'll be grateful if you have any answer to this. Thanks again
you are welcome. you may use Arduino to measure and monitor temperature from this video th-cam.com/video/VGqONmUinqA/w-d-xo.html and if you want to have display, then watch this video th-cam.com/video/BlhpktgPdKs/w-d-xo.html or see all videos th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=%23robojax_MAX6675
Yes you can. Here is how you can calculate the load. Your bulbs are your load. Just add the power of all six bulbs and treat them as ONE load snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
hi thanks for the explanation i just have a suggestion if you can do it " is it possible to make the module without the temperature probe standard so that we can use the same module with an other sensor like light sensor LDR ; pressure sensor or any other sensor instead of the te,perature probe"
You are welcome. here are my other videos on Temperature and humidity sensor th-cam.com/users/robojaxTVsearch?query=thermostat Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
When you splice and the wire in half and . And put the fan on. the other end do you have the plug do you plug in the wall outlet and have the electric run through it as it's hooked up to the battery to.
Hi, Im just learning about this existing while taking abt a semester worth of time to do exactly what this does with arduino, so that sucks. I just want to ask, if I supply like 5V to the module, will the device work? I just want to use it for the temperature display and not the relay, so do I have to supply all 12V?
How will i do? When i try to do setting in my new XH-W1209, in the P3 it goes upto only 14 (the range is between only 14 to -30). I am confuse as you mention it as 50 to -50.
It's a pretty sad state of affairs when the Chinese know they have us eating off their hands that they don't as much as include instructions on how to use the stuff they sell, forcing us to rely on finding the info ourselves. And still here I am, supporting their economy by buying their junk. Nonetheless I'm quite impressed with this thermostat. It works incredibly well. Question is, how long 'till it breaks down and stops working, like everything else made in that country? Thanks for posting the instructions on how to use a device that could/should have come with instructions. Sheez.
I bought one of these controllers great little bit of kit but there is a fault in the software when using it to cool a PC with a fan. When you set the temp you want the fan to kick in at you have to deduct the differential you have set from the temp you require i.e. if you want a fan to kick in at 30c with a 2 degree backlash (differential) you have to set it at 28c to achieve this. This way the fan kicks in at 30c and cuts out when it gets down to 28c . It works fine in the heating mode though
Can I connect this to a 12 volt battery 1.4AH? I intend to connect a small fan and small buzzer on a compact surface. I know it has a 20amp relay so im not sure if this requires more power to activate the fan.
hii ,, Thanks for the full informative video .... I want to ask if this one could be used for 220V devices ?? as I just got it 125V as I didn't know that before getting it .... Thanks
This guy Robofax has obviously no clue. Sure you can use it on the switching side to switch 220V. I would'nt use this divice to switch anything, because after x times switching the realay will burn up. You need to desolder the relay and add the appropiate solid state relay for your purpose. T
@@Lisas4us can it be used to switching 12 v dc to ac ssr , safely ? Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
With multiple strand wire it looks and work more professional. I have an entire SnapOn tool box dedicated to everything electrical and small part metal carry case...only the tiny end rings are left. So, do what you needed to do. Retired ASE Master Tech
I connected my W1209 to a 12v lead acid battery with battery and load gnd lead to the gnd terminal. Added a Jumper to +12v and K1 terminals and then load positive to K0 following a dc wiring diagram. When the temperature reached H set point, the fan came on as expected. Once temp reached low set point fan turned off. When I attempted to rerun the test, the W1209 lost power, it appears to have failed. I read that any voltage in excess of 12dcv could compromise the circuit board. I measured 12.8v at the battery. Can the board handle this voltage over nominal. If it can’t what can I do to supply 12 v without any over-voltage?
Hello,, if you need stable volage, get the MT3608 boost converter www.aliexpress.com/item/32948417810.html and adjust the output to 12V. Even with 5V-25V input, it will give 12V. Yes 12.8V or 13V might hram this module.
@robojax Back Lash: In P2 mode we will adjust one value, ie How far from the set point you want to turn on your relay again. (Assume you are in H mode ).
One of the very few videos where somebody actually explains this things so clearly. I'll definitely give you a like.
Good to hear that. Thank you.
Dane with my part hope to see you araund
does not work. 3 does not go above 14
THAT'S WHAT I SAID!!!!
THANK YOU SOOOO DANG MUUUUUCH!!! 🙏
It was a great video .I just bought 2 of these units ,there was no paper work to show how to use them , thanks to you now I can use it in my solar project . God bless
Glad I could help
Thank you! The instructions I received skipped all of the P settings, and I thought my unit was broken (but actually set to the default C, not H what I needed.) Very easy to follow and thorough.
You are welcome. Cheers. Ahmad from Canada.
You just stopped me complaining to the seller on ebay because my one was working backwards to how I wanted (was on cool, not heat). Another great video, very glad I subscribed. Thank you :)
You are welcome. I am glad it helped you.
I bought this and I didn't know that hysteresis can be adjusted. I dont want my AC to go wild turning on and off with default 2 degC. Good I found your video. Perfect!
Glad I could help
Thank you so much for this material info. I have bought one and I couldn't understand anything from their instructions. This helps a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
These relays are great. You can make very nice temp controller for very little money. I control my intercooler fans on my turbocharged Land Cruiser , it works very well.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
@@anandjoshi8554 It depends... If you build a nuclear reactor, then you probable need something more sophisticated... I used them in many different applications like turning my intercooler fans on my Jeep. I also used them in my cooler room as thermostat. They work and work ok.
@@justlife2129 thanks
@@justlife2129 Which connector would fit to blue colour relay modules in place of jumper /dupont / berg housing connectors ?? (2.54 mm pitch ) good firm connection
Best tutorial among the rest..very thorough and well explained..robojax two thumbs up 👍👍🙏
Glad you liked it!
very helpful video! I purchased several of these about four years ago but need to reset it. your video helped me, because I could not remember how to set it up.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
@@anandjoshi8554 well I guess it depends on the project. If it’s Nuclear reactor or a guided missile project, or a human cryogenic freezer then no! But for anything else yes, they work great. I have six of them and they work great.
@@RC-Flight 😇🤔🤔🤭🙄😷🧐 🤐 thanks 🙂
I take this time to thank the woman who gave birth to such a son. Man you are a blessing. All your videos are impressive and very informative please keep up the good work. Message frm South Africa.
that is very kind of you. I will convey your thank you to my mom. I am glad you found my tutorial useful. Greeting from Canada.
Thank you so much as a beginner it is hard to find a foolproof tutorial your's sir is one of the best👍👍
very well presented, crystal clear explanation. Thank you Ahmad
I bought the thing online and it came with no instruction at all. Hardly any info can be found online as well. But thanks to your video, the thing is all properly set now. Thanks for the detailed instruction.
Glad I could help
The W3001 controller available for $3 works quite well, this seems to have similar function except it works off 120VAC, and switches the line to the output. Button user interface is different, with a low and high threshold setting used to control turn on and turn off for both heating and cooling, with the hysteresis determined by the delta between the two settings.
Very useful. The cheap version uses thin gauge wire presoldered to the unit instead of screw terminals, so I just changed them to handle higher current. It does come with a housing, so it's more complete and ready to use.
Modified one to get isolated contacts to switch a logic level signal rather than 120V.
Thank you for such a great video! I didn't realize this thing had so many features.
Thanks for a good explanation of the controller, that does not come with any instruction sheet. I appreciate your help.
You're welcome!. I am glad you found it useful.
Well done! Just a safety comment if I may. If you connect a test load as shown in the video be aware that 120 - 240 volts will be exposed on the back side of the circuit board. Use caution, or perhaps test with an LED and a 1K resistor in series with the relay contacts.
Thanks. You may watch the latest version of this thermostat and new video th-cam.com/video/kZlTMNqXzo4/w-d-xo.html
What?
Wow, these purpose built electronic devices are getting so cool!
I have only one question that no seller can answer, but if the 12 volt DC power is lost, then you loose your settings and have to start again. I am guessing this because they list “Static Current” of less-than 35mA.
I looked to see if someone ask the question and watched the entire video as well. As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, at 62, I still like to learn, but truthfully want to use it for a fan over my transmission cooler. I enjoy your explanation & the equipment you use and describe your findings. If this was a hobby, I would not own a Fluke 87 V digital multi meter. I tell people asking wiring issues on vehicles to use dielectric grease where exposed to water/moisture but also good grounds and these “Star” washer to dig into the metal. Most forget the ground side on a vehicles chassis and using voltage drop as a diagnostic tool. Thanks again for your clear videos. I am saving this one for myself!
Hi Dean, The settings are saved when power is disconnected. Your assumption is correct on the amount of current. thank you for sharing your thoughts. stay safe.
@@robojax Thank you so very, very much! The “Static Current” they refer to must be the amount of current this device consumes when on, digital display shining, just no “On-Off” activity.
I intend to use an external relay to operate my fan. This makes the current requirements on the boards relay very low, actually making its relay last longer, because it operating the coil of an 80 ohm relay.
Most eBay or amazon seller do not have the product nor ship it. The payment is sent with my address and is sent form another location.
I saw this device will hunting for info on it. You did a wonderful job showing both different voltage and current levels. Even noise on the out put was a bonus, important to some, but will not affect my use. Oh many blessings on your effort as video are work too. It looks like tape would hold down the NTC thermistor when the heat gun is blowing it around.
I had plans to place it in the back of my custom console. It would not be fun to re-set it once power is shut off.
Once again, thank you so much!!!!
Finally a video i can decipher!!!! Thank you so much!
You are welcome. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
Thank you soooo much for your video and help! I got mine working because of you and all the incredible information you have given. Thank you soo much again. You deserve a lot more credit and recognition for your work. Happy new year. Keep up the great work
You are so welcome! Happy New Year. Greetings from Canada. Ahmad
Purchased one for my DIY Peltier Chiller. Both the Peltiers and the Temp Control run on the 12V. Worked out just fine.
Good to hear that.
Thanks for the demo. I have one of these boards but lost the documentation years ago. Much appreciated!
What an excellent and thorough video! Thank you so much!
That was a perfect demo of the sensor, thank you.
Nice clear video and a good explanation. Thank you for including the programming chart!
You are welcome.
Wow, perfect instructions for this circuit, thanks!
You're welcome!
Very good and clean information thank you
My pleasure.
Really clear and helpful explanation. Thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
excellent, helped me out bigtime...subbed..thank you
Thanks for the sub!
Very well explained, thanks 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Ty sir robojax... very informative.. very easy to install. Ordered another batch of this device for my incubator projects.. this is very useful for us beginners.. more power sir robojax...
You are welcome. Sir.
Thank you for this video. Made my project so much easier.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for your thorough explanation!!!
You are welcome. The best thank you for me is to not skipping ads and Subscribing 🔔 to my channel, and liking 👍 the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊.
I will reply to all Subscriber's 🔔 questions. So make sure to Subscribe.😊 .
Thank you so much for the explanation for this devise! It came with no information.
You are welcome. See my videos on other better sensors th-cam.com/users/robojaxTVsearch?query=temperature
Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
This guy is a legend
Very well presented! thanks so much for doing this. Much appreciated!
Awesome video, like complete reference 👍
Thanks for the visit
I use this relais for a cooling fan (switch on/off) in the housing from my FMD Printer. It works great.
Very good video; helped me out a lot. Thank you!
Very well explained! Thanks bud!
You are welcome.
Great video. Question: I will be connecting this thermostat to a relay in my truck (12V). When the power is disconnected from the thermostat module (via relay) will the setting on the module remain at MY settings or will they default to a factory setting when relay restores the power to themastat module? Thank you.
I retains all data. Nothing will be lost.
A great way to test the controller is to tape the sensor to an incandescent lightbulb. These lightbulbs get hot when turned on and cool down fast when they are turned off. In the HEAT mode the controller will turn the bulb on and off causing a cool flashing. Don't do this with an LED bulb as they don't get hot enough.
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
Thanks a lot for the video. I got this for a project of mine and I'm trying to find if it's possible to program it so that the + - increments go by 1 degree instead of 0.1. Also, is there a way to program it so that it is on for a certain amount of time? Thanks again!
Thank you very much for very helpful explanation. can I use 110V as well ?
you are welcome. this is operates with 12V DC.
You are talking about using of the relay? It seems that you can. If it's 10 amps with 220V then it should take 20 amps on 110V AC.
Thanks, your video helped med, I miss how to set one thing to get my setup to work you showed me
do I need to fuse this it will be controlling a small fan fir cooling, thanks your awesome
Thank you for the great video and feedback on the comments. I purchased this controller but didn't use it because I was confused how will it know if the setup is to heat or cool. Things are very clear now.
What are your default setting temperature
I bought one of these to make a chiller for my aquarium. My unit didn't come with any instructions. Your video was really helpful...
Great explanation. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Is this sensor water approved? I need to use it for measuring the water temperature
yes. it is made for liquid.
great tutorial. Please can i use this device to control Air Conditioner compressor and condenser fan as my PCB relay is bad.
Super 👍 explanation
Glad it helped you.
Excellent video which makes setting the device up easy. Thanks.
You are welcome. I am glad you found it useful.
Is this quite accurate when double checked with a thermometer? Thanks
it should be. This is used widely but I have not checked it against another sensor.
@@robojax thanks, I'll buy one and will have a test of my own...
Thank you for this video ❤❤❤
Thank you for your recent reply.
What is the useful function of the Upper Limit; Lower Limit, and Correction settings ????
These are not explained well anywhere I can find.
Looking to set my Greenhouse 'ON' Trigger for the FAN at 29C, in COLD MODE; I discovered setting the module to 27 C, with the Backlash at its default 2C = 29C.
That has the FAN turn back off at 27 C; which works for me.
(Alternatively, if I set Backlash at 1C, the fan switched on at 28C, and off at 27C).
Upper and Lower Limits seem to be the total range in which the module will do anything; and their use escapes me.
For example, I initially tried using the Upper Limit for trigger temperature, and nothing worked. It seemed to lock out the module.
The use for the 'Correction' mode is also not obvious . .... Correction from what ??
Is there a manual or some other more complete document out there on the operation / use cases for this module ?
Later I explained it in other videos one of them is here th-cam.com/video/aY4YbSlJ8tk/w-d-xo.html where you will see start and stop temperature values
ultimately brilliant and elaborative description. Thanks
You are welcome.
Very nice explanation
What is your opinion about connecting a reverse diode across the Relay terminals, to protect the contacts from potential Back EMF ??
I am switching a 12Volt 1.5A DC Fan, so a 1A rectifier should do the trick.
Thank you for an awesome explanation.
It was a life saver, since product ships with absolutely nothing in the way of instruction from Amazon.
It has already the needed diode
@@robojax Thank you ..... I guess my extra one can't hurt :) ...
Hello, is it possible to connect a heater(polyamide, for instance) and heat something throughout a certain period of time, with a fixed temperature and then it goes off when the time limit is reached?
Very good explaining video... One question, can I run a 12v input into the power feed (Positive and negative) then a 12v power source into k0 and 12v appliance into k1?
Yes you can power this module with 12v and your load can be also 12v
Good sir i like your videos
So nice of you
Thank you for info.... This is useful thing...
Can I test the board switch with a car battery? That's the only power supply I have at the moment. Any feedback appreciated and thanks for the video
Hi nice hardware , i was thinking if insted of lamp i run a pump cycaling water into a radiator ( not neccary just for the example ) to cool down viaclhle motor .
and the sensor positaion inside the radiator . if the tempuraute goes high , above setpoint . the relay close and the pump circate. and i zm curios if there is option to aplly PID . so the pump motor doesnt turn off imadatlly , but slow down when the mesurment is 2% close to the setpoint .
sorry for my spelling mistakes .
thanks Netael
Hi, this is very simple timer. if you want to have full control, then use Arduino shown here th-cam.com/video/yJYXfaU9J34/w-d-xo.html if you don't know about Arduino, here is my course worth $200 on Udemy is available for free on TH-cam here bit.ly/arduinoStepByStep
Thanks, great tutorial. does the device setting hold if power is interrupted
you are welcome. yes it does.
Thanks. Very clear explanation of programming the device. Is there a similar module that works with 5V?
I have not see such thing. But you can buy very cheap boost converter where you can input 5V and it will boost it to 12v. I have video in that . Search my channel
@@robojax Thanks. I later saw that the solid state relay would work with an input trigger voltage anywhere between 3V to 30V to switch on high (resistive heater) loads, so no worries.
Need some advice, I want to use one of these with 2x12v DC fans. Can I splice into the 12v DC power lead supplied for the fans to also power the controller?
Hi, yes you can. it is called parallel. like at home you have fridge and TV connected in parallel.
Explained very well, thank you
You are welcome.
For an incubator can í only use upper and lower limits or do i have to fill in all p1 to p6 spaces?
Thanks bro you helped me complete my project
You are welcome.
Can you make a video for how to connect this device to an electrical fan using 4 pin reley ?
Hi, thank you for the detailed video. I have been using this module to control a greenhouse misting system to cool down if it reaches a certain temperature.
It’s been working well up until I needed to disconnect the power supply and after reconnecting the temperature reading continues to rise up to 110c despite no significant increase in room temperature. It does this even without the temperature sensor connected. I have also tried resetting the unit with no change to result. I purchased a second unit and have had it connected for 3 weeks before it started doing the same thing.
Have you experienced this and might you be able to offer some direction to fix? Thank you.
Hi, if turning the power OFF and ON again does not help, check the wiring or crack on PCB, if you everything is okay, then it is damaged.
One more question Sir.
Your example was for ac current, for dc current on the relay should I bridge KO to K1 or K1 to positive or does it matter.
this is just a switch which turn ON or OFF. you can DC or AC load. it doesn't need any other change.
Hi can you jump 12v to k1 and put the positive of the device needing to be powered (say a 12v water pump) to k0 and the negative of the pump to the gnd supply of the module?
Yes, that's what I've done.
I have often had a problem when I want to power this from a 12v regulated power supply... the temperature jumps up and down several degrees every second, and if the temperature is close to the the set point, the relay will randomly click on and off and on and off because of these fluctuations in the temperature reading. I tried using an additional 12v linear voltage regulator together with lots of different sized capacitors, and even tried lowering the voltage by passing it through a couple of diodes. Nothing really helped. My voltmeter was reading a constant 12.2 volts, so I don't think the voltage was actually fluctuating any appreciable amount, but whatever tiny bit of leftover ripple was left in the incoming supply was continuing to cause these fluctations in the temperature reading, and the unstable relay response would not stop. Initially the only thing that fixed the fluctuations was to run the thermostat from a completely separate 12v battery instead. (Not practicle for permanent installation of anything.) But then I tried something else that totally fixed all the fluctuations without having to run it on a battery: I put a small value capacitor across the leads for the thermistor. Works like a dream! No more random fluctations in the readings, and no more random clicking on and off of the relay! Perfectly smooth operation now. I used a 4.7 uf capacitor rated for 25 volts, but any small capacitor will usually work, as long as it is rated for 12v or more. So if you are having issues with a jumpy temperature readout, cut the thermistor wires somewhere convenient, and splice in a very small capacitor. Or if you would rather put the capacitor directly on the board, there are two nice solder points right next to the sensor connector you can use. The top side is positive, and the bottom side is negative. I tried a .1 uf capacitor and it worked just as well, but I went with the 4.7 uf because I might need the other one for something else. So the value of the cap is not hypercritical.
Hello, Do you have picture or a video of how it is done? If not, would you mind sending me a picture of it to mjshaheed.be@gmail.com. Thanks!
Bro it would be amazing if you can somehow share a picture or make a video of it. There are tons of people that want to get rid of this issue and your idea is brilliant!
very nicely explained, btw can i alter the control range to 0-500 deg C by changing the sensor or this unit is calibrated for 10K NTC sensor only.
if you want higher temperature and custom display with proper functionality, then you build your own. I have shown it here th-cam.com/video/cD5oOu4N_AE/w-d-xo.html
Can I use this gadget for regulating temperatures in poultry brooder ?
it is up to you to regulate whatever you want. sure. you can.
An other great video, thank you !
:o)
You are welcome.
Plc subscribe my youtobe chanal Electronics and Sweets
Sir can i connect 3 ,12 vot cpu fan in parellel to this temperature controler
Very thanks for this great video, actually I'm looking for a compact module like this to control temperature between something around room temperature to around 300c using thermonuclear type k or whatever that can handle that temperature. I'll be grateful if you have any answer to this.
Thanks again
you are welcome. you may use Arduino to measure and monitor temperature from this video th-cam.com/video/VGqONmUinqA/w-d-xo.html and if you want to have display, then watch this video th-cam.com/video/BlhpktgPdKs/w-d-xo.html or see all videos th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=%23robojax_MAX6675
@@robojax it's about cost and space, I want to put it in the oven
I've not see modules with protected sensor such as k-type. so Arduino is your option for now.
Sir, you have really made it easy and even easier but sir can one adapt six bulbs to the W1209 thermostat at a time?
Yes you can. Here is how you can calculate the load. Your bulbs are your load. Just add the power of all six bulbs and treat them as ONE load snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
Great video thanks!
hi thanks for the explanation i just have a suggestion if you can do it " is it possible to make the module without the temperature probe standard so that we can use the same module with an other sensor like light sensor LDR ; pressure sensor or any other sensor instead of the te,perature probe"
You are welcome. here are my other videos on Temperature and humidity sensor th-cam.com/users/robojaxTVsearch?query=thermostat Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
When you splice and the wire in half and . And put the fan on. the other end do you have the plug do you plug in the wall outlet and have the electric run through it as it's hooked up to the battery to.
yes. Exactly. So if you have AC load, connect it to wall outlet. If you have DC load, then connect it to battery.
Hi, Im just learning about this existing while taking abt a semester worth of time to do exactly what this does with arduino, so that sucks. I just want to ask, if I supply like 5V to the module, will the device work? I just want to use it for the temperature display and not the relay, so do I have to supply all 12V?
It works with 12V only.
How will i do? When i try to do setting in my new XH-W1209, in the P3 it goes upto only 14 (the range is between only 14 to -30). I am confuse as you mention it as 50 to -50.
something is wrong. my be this is either different or it has been programmed from the manufacturere incorrectly.
It's a pretty sad state of affairs when the Chinese know they have us eating off their hands that they don't as much as include instructions on how to use the stuff they sell, forcing us to rely on finding the info ourselves. And still here I am, supporting their economy by buying their junk.
Nonetheless I'm quite impressed with this thermostat. It works incredibly well. Question is, how long 'till it breaks down and stops working, like everything else made in that country? Thanks for posting the instructions on how to use a device that could/should have come with instructions. Sheez.
I bought one of these controllers great little bit of kit but there is a fault in the software when using it to cool a PC with a fan. When you set the temp you want the fan to kick in at you have to deduct the differential you have set from the temp you require i.e. if you want a fan to kick in at 30c with a 2 degree backlash (differential) you have to set it at 28c to achieve this. This way the fan kicks in at 30c and cuts out when it gets down to 28c . It works fine in the heating mode though
5:55 W1209 Settings Chart
shortcut.
@@robojax Absolutely
Can I connect this to a 12 volt battery 1.4AH? I intend to connect a small fan and small buzzer on a compact surface.
I know it has a 20amp relay so im not sure if this requires more power to activate the fan.
the voltage is the only important value. 12V is fine. you can connect 0.2A to 1000A will work.
@@robojax thank you! I intend to try the 20amp 😁
hii ,, Thanks for the full informative video .... I want to ask if this one could be used for 220V devices ?? as I just got it 125V as I didn't know that before getting it .... Thanks
You are welcome.
This guy Robofax has obviously no clue. Sure you can use it on the switching side to switch 220V. I would'nt use this divice to switch anything, because after x times switching the realay will burn up. You need to desolder the relay and add the appropiate solid state relay for your purpose. T
@@Lisas4us or just a properly rated mechanical relay. Agreed don't use this with 220.
@@Lisas4us can it be used to switching 12 v dc to ac ssr , safely ?
Are this reliable enough to be used in a project ? or one should buy expensive controller?
don't solder wires for screw terminals. use end sleeves!
With multiple strand wire it looks and work more professional. I have an entire SnapOn tool box dedicated to everything electrical and small part metal carry case...only the tiny end rings are left. So, do what you needed to do. Retired ASE Master Tech
I connected my W1209 to a 12v lead acid battery with battery and load gnd lead to the gnd terminal. Added a Jumper to +12v and K1 terminals and then load positive to K0 following a dc wiring diagram. When the temperature reached H set point, the fan came on as expected. Once temp reached low set point fan turned off. When I attempted to rerun the test, the W1209 lost power, it appears to have failed. I read that any voltage in excess of 12dcv could compromise the circuit board. I measured 12.8v at the battery. Can the board handle this voltage over nominal. If it can’t what can I do to supply 12 v without any over-voltage?
Hello,, if you need stable volage, get the MT3608 boost converter www.aliexpress.com/item/32948417810.html and adjust the output to 12V. Even with 5V-25V input, it will give 12V. Yes 12.8V or 13V might hram this module.
@ 7:10 why you stopped explaining that back lash part.and @10:30 also
what is back lash? After 500k views you are the first asking for it.
@robojax
Back Lash:
In P2 mode we will adjust one value, ie How far from the set point you want to turn on your relay again. (Assume you are in H mode ).
Hi, Can you tell me how many meters can be the cable between the board and the ntc sensor? Can it be 20 meters long?
Sir can we use Ac fan or dc fan by changing circuit connection
it can control CD or DC no problem. It need 12V DC to operate. snag.gy/UDJMCg.jpg
When I turned it on for the first time, I got exactly 25.9°C like your room temp!!!! 2:05
Nice. We have the same temperature in our rooms.