10 STUPID errors to avoid in the electrical engineering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2020
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🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹 SEI ITALIANO?
Se vuoi vedere tutti i video di questo canale, mano a mano che saranno pubblicati ma in italiano, seguimi al mio canale ufficiale italiano: th-cam.com/channels/rLeLEhuZWoq5viMj8Mr1Tw.html
Most of this is common sense, yet it still needs to be said because we live in a world where common sense is becoming more rare each day. Great video!
Well said! Common sense is now rare sense.
@@manny3549 Been that way for the last 100,000 years or so.
to most people, they r common sense but a significant number of people still has to be taught or reminded to avoid danger. good work, thx. per la maggior parte delle persone sono di buon senso, ma un numero significativo di persone deve ancora essere istruito o ricordato per evitare il pericolo. buon lavoro, th
Some great habits to adopt! I've always pulled fairly hard on anything I've crimped - if it's going to fail, I want it to fail when I'm wiring it, not later when someone can get hurt or stranded. High resistance connections will overheat as well, melting that nice plastic insulation separating it from the other terminals...
Same for always tighten what you've just stuck in the terminal and "make the rounds again" if you've done a lot of terminal wiring to ensure you haven't missed one.
Very nicely put together video and very entertaining as well. Thanks for posting this.
Correct way: buy this tool.
@Y2Kvids Are you from India Subcontinent?
@@muhammadtamim451 Nepal
7:20 - Fail. Yellow/green wire must be longer. By crash (pulled out power wire from terminal block) must be first disconnected the blue and brown wire and last wire yellow/green. Device must be till the last moment grounded!
I hope he’s not an professional electrician :/ because this is a really bad failure
Heh, aye, also there should be plugsthat are supposed to be used as non-grounded, you know the ones without the ground plug/hole at all. using a grounded plugs without ground at all is always a short way to disaster. So saying that "this is fine for this kind of thing" is not good.
Great video demonstrating right and wrong procedures. Thanks for uploading it.
Excelente trabajo!! Es muy útil para superar malos hábitos y para formar a futuros profesionales. Te felicito. Un abrazo desde Buenos Aires,
Grazie Daniele, semplici accorgimenti ma davvero importanti. 😊😊😊😘
@13:28 The problem happens when you forgot to move the terminal back from 10A to V hole. If you try to measure the Voltage while the terminal is still in 10A hole then the fuse inside the tester will most probably blow (If 10A line is protected with fuse).
Yes, and better meters (for example Brymen) have a buzzer whenever you go into voltage measurement with probes connected to Amp terminal. When choosing a meter think about safety like proper fuses and features like that - it can save your life.
@@KB-mo3sx yes, I just ordered 5x20mm 10A ceramic fuses fo my meter again...
Mr. Dani que sorpresa verte de nuevo , como as estado , buen vídeo Dani , seguid así y esos temas son muy sutiles... seguid así , un abrazo , se te quiere y Saludos...
Your videos are very informative and helpful to people like me. More power!
Hello
You missed one thing when you showed that need to move the position of the test leads. Always move them back after you get an AMP (current) reading. I've blown fuses before on my meter because I tried to measure voltage and I forgot to move the lead back from the amp (current) position. After having to open the meter several times to replace the fuse, I got into a habit of always moving the test lead back after an AMP (current) reading. Other than that, good job on the video.
Regarding number 5: You could also change the plug on the cable to your device to a compatible; this is often quite a bit cheaper than an adapter and you reduce the risk og it comming apart. Where I live, in the kitchen alone there is often 3 or more devices using 230 Volts with the "schuko" plug when delivered.
Hi Daniele Tartaglia, Great video you have produced here, I really enjoyed it, great content. I particularly enjoyed where you made so easy for non technical persons to understand. I have come across or seen those stupid mistakes. I felt it was really informative and you really brought the point across well. I am really interested in electrical engineering. I have had a career in engineering for over 28 years from everything from starting as a mechanics assistant moving across to be a electrician to now a Project Manager. I enjoy sharing my skills and knowledge as well with others like yourself. I have provided training to others and had apprentices work with me to kick start there careers. Many thanks, Great job.
It may not be the best, but I use sometimes the cutting part of the pliers to crimp it. I don't cut it, I just make enough strength to crimp it. And it stays good.
And as for the extension, it's not something that I like to do, but when I have to, I don't twist it like that, I wrap it on the other side, and weld it.
Parabéns, obrigado por postar,q Deus continue abençoando seu canal
Finalmente alguém br kk
Ottimo con regole ben precise il lavoro e la sicurezza migliorano. Sempre un ottimo instruttore complimenti.
I remember making a big mistake on a multimeter where I tried to measure 220v but then the red probe was still connected the 10A port of the multimeter. The fuse on the meter blew up and the probes got melted! Will never forget that day, which is a good thing.
Just me, but when I make or replace an extension cord end I bring my voltmeter with me, and set it to check continuity. It helps me wire the plugs proper and ensures the right voltage is going through the right screw port.
Excelente informe !!! Saludos desde Argentina
I heard an expression once that I really like...
"Once you let the smoke out, hit can't put it back in."
Sure you can! It just requires replacing the parts that don't have smoke inside anymore.
@@leftyeh6495 lol. Good answer
You made a bad mistake with your wiring with the cord. The earth has always to be a bit longer so that in case of rupture it is the last cable to loose connection.
those are not errors or mistakes, but just lack of a proper tools
If you dont have the proper tools dont work with electricity
@@josefaschwanden1502 if the electricity is not high , there is no problem to work with not professional tools
@@intel386DX its just a pain in the ass then
@@josefaschwanden1502 harder yes, but pain in the ass...
You can very much Improvise...
Ciai Daniele, come sempre i tuoi sono video professionali, il tempo che dedichi al montaggio e alla realizzazione probabilmente non a prezzo, da te imparo molto e miglioro ogni volta i miei strumenti grazie a i tuoi suggerimenti.. Grazie e buona giornata
number 2 can be also done correctly by soldering the wires to the terminals. just make sure to solder correctly
The correct title shoud be "electrical hobbyist problem, for not technical people"
no, only if someone dont have money.
For your kind attention at 13:56.
No one is immune to mistakes.
@@defaulltmake to forgotten the probe in Ampere mode while measuring the voltage, isn't a elelectrical engineering mistake.
maybe "from hobbits to hobbits"
If you 'professionals' were not so greedy, there would be no need for electrical hobbyists.
Great Video! TKS
stupid mistake #11: buy cheap ass tools from banggood
LOL
Personally, I prefer fork terminals for contactors. Always use an "in calibration" quality crimp tool and tighten the fastener to the required torque with a calibrated torque screwdriver. Normally around 2 to 3Nm.
Now I understand why British plugs are the best...
Until you step on one
VERY very good video. I suggest to check the text at 7:30, because it´s confusing, appears like if the ground wire is present the differential switch will not work. best regards!
yeah. It works with or without ground wire.
Great Video, Thank You.
Great video 🤝
Loved your lights at the back drop.. Could you teach how to make one..?
@supergamer 11 and
One error more: cable colours must be continue. Red with red, blue with blue and yellow/green with yellow/green. Sorry, i don't much know about english.
Red? That cables are brown, blue and y/g
Just a comment on sin #1. I absolutely agree that is shoddy work and I would never allow or do it. However reducing the strand count for 1/2 an inch does not ELECTRICALLY reduce a 16ga wire to say 23ga. Mechanically, yes, but not resistance wise. Remember the resistance across the wire is distributed along it's length. So 1/2 inch is not going to have any significant difference. Look and many large electric motors and transformers. The internal wiring is often a wire gauge or more below the rated current for the same reason. That undersized wire is less than a foot in length. Again I am not condoning the use of undersized terminals on wires. That's hack work plain and simple. But I don't see it as an over current concern.
This is absolutely dangerous nonsense being told here! If you reduce the wire cross-section at one point of your connection this is going to become your weak spot. Might get hot and start to burn if the rest of the wire does fit the current but that thinned spot cannot take it.
Andy Delle Good grief! In what school are they teaching such a blunt rubbish? Have fun with it.
@@carsten.hamburg8771 As you didn't challenge my response on a technical level, I will assume you simply didn't understand it. Any first year student or graduate electrical engineer will understand and support what I am saying. BTW, I see you are a home theater enthusiast. Here's mine: th-cam.com/video/bEMuqo38lJ0/w-d-xo.html
@@andydelle4509 a first year student might, but reducing the strands causes a hotspot for several inches as the copper will form an oxide layer preventing the transfer of current from one strand to another. Also, if the motor is used witch a VFD, the high frequencies induced aggravate the situation due to the "skin effect" where the current does not travel thru the conductor but thru the surface layer or with higher frequencies along the surface of the conductor.
You want to start a fire this way? Go ahead... But as a commissioning engineer I will insist that such reductions of conductor diameter are fixed or I will not even start the motor to check for the correct rotation.
Andy Delle if you think how a fuse is made, it is exactly a section of thinner wire around half an inch long.
Of course it depends by how many strands you lose, but it is really bad practice.
If the ferrule cannot fit, also the insulating part of it will probably will do not fit correctly and this will make it weak.
Not nice at all
Mil Spec allows 10% reduction in conductor area at the crimp. You can cut off 10% of copper strands to fit.
Habla muy pocito Español me amigo.. I just want to say thanks for all you do, this was a good one!
Great job and video
6:53 You should also shorten live and neutral wires to leave the ground wire the longest one, then In case of tripping over the cable, the live and neutral wires will be pulled out before the ground wire, reducing the risk of electric shock.
That's what the strain relief is for. If you manage to mangle all that you deserve a good shock as you must need it to learn.
@@leftyeh6495 The strain relief is not 100% protection, some cables with soft insulation (for example rubber) can be pulled from tightened relief with enough force. Repeated pulling on the cable can slowly pull it out and even some plugs don't have relief with screws but plastic ratchet which may become loose. As an Electrician, I never rely solely on it.
@@WolfGamerBohumin as an electrician, I believe stupid people will defeat anything you do to try and be safe. I quit worrying about the idiots long ago.
7:20 is better make the earth (yellow-green) wire longer than other
It's not only better, but mandatory to do it really right. I was waiting to see wether the PE should be longer or the clamp inside the plug is located to the wire to get the result. Goal is allways that PE should disconnect last. A good designed plug locates the clamp for PE that wires can cut to same lengths.
Definitely a lot better editing than the soldering mistakes video, the emojis were annoying as heck. Still some room for improvement of course but good tips, albeit I do disagree with making splices with electrical tape, there are some good procedures for splices without solder or crimping terminals (the one I know the most is the Western Union/Lineman splice), so it's definitely possible to do it right.
Especially when deling with wires you must not break
hello good video I would like to know what is the program you use to edit your videos
Daniele, your tips with respect to electrical wiring and connectors is really appreciated, nice way to follow the tips, there is going to be no electric hazard in a life time. Thanks a lot for making this worth like video.
first example is manipulation. in the first case, when the car cut off part of the veins,
it inserted the remaining veins unfinished and pressed the wire. that's why when he bent it 90 degrees he got out.
if the author had inserted the wire all the way, nothing would have come out.
None of those are mistakes, most of those were just improper execution. For example joining 2 cables, just solder them together. Another example is fitting a cable to a small connector (like this one 2:22), instead of cutting off part of the cable, bend out the part that the cable comes in IF POSSIBLE. Also addressing that "mistake", just use bigger pliers or solder it...
To me, these all seem like common sense but I have crimped wires with regular pliers many times because it was the only thing available. I learned how to make it work but using the right tool is much faster and way easier.
Two others I would add is don't cut the ground pin off a plug to make it fit an ungrounded socket. And...don't try to test amps on a circuit that is more than 10A.
I've also seen foil wrapped around a fuse which is the same as direct connect without a fuse at all. BAD BAD BAD
It is not said enough; most people think only a short can cause electrical fires, but a bad connection (resistance in the contact) can do just as well. In the worst case scenario the amount of power dissipated in the few square millimetre of the bad contact is half of the power connected to the connection. So if a 2000W heater is connected on a loose screw, in the worst case 1000W can be dissipated in that screw, and that is A LOT of heat for such a small piece of metal (Worst case: resistance of load = resistance of bad contact, so a 50/50 divide of power)
Sei un ottimo youtuber
Video molto utile educativo, soprattutto per chi fa le cose come si dice più volgarmente a pene di segugio
Ps aspettiamo ancora le specifiche nel dettaglio dell'alimentatore da banco regolabile costruito partendo da un vecchio alimentatore di un PC XD
Prolunga = extention cord
differenziale = main breaker
magnetotermico = breaker
relè = relay
terminali = wire ferruls
cavi singoli (fili) = wires
fili all'interno di un cavo = conductors
cavo contenente altri cavi = cable
Differenziale non è RCD? Residual current device? Oppure RCCB residual current circuit breaker
Excelente video. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
TOTALMENTE DE ACUERDO Y POR DESGRACIA TODOS LOS EJEMPLOS, QUE HA CITADO SON MUY CORRIENTES.
Por cierto, estoy suscrito a su canal, por muy útil, interesante y correcto.
Gracias por su canal, continúe por muchos años
procedure no2 pliers can be used this is how its done without a crimper first do it frist sideways then top and bottom the cutter side of the pliers can be used but be carefull with the pressure applied so as to avoid cutting the cable or the connector or just solder it it works well than crimps
One mistake possibly not mentioned below (in English), is leaving the probes in the current terminals when you have made your current measurement, and you then switch back to read a voltage and fail to notice the probes in the wrong sockets.
An easy error to make if you are in a hurry.
and potentially more dangerous shortening the voltage surge!
Yes leaving set to volts as in video will not damage meter but other way round as you say will definately blow fuse in meter or damage meter.
Very good demonstration with wrong and correct procedure.Thanks
In my line of work I will go in to install Alarm Systems, CCTV, Audio and TVs and I always see the horror from what the customer has done and even worse what other Techs have done.
Low voltage and fiber are the worst, I'm a firm believer that any low voltage signal cable should have a 500VDC "protective signal" applied to the outer braid, that way people would take wiring these "non-letal" cables more seriously
nah, Most cabling is rated for 300 Volts, Just put a isolated 250VAC 1mA, enough to let them know who's boss.
Me too my friend. I can't understand why customers and sometimes techs themselves put their safety at stack in such an idiotic way ...
6:27 or just fill the hole for the ground pin so when you want to plug sth that requires ground you realise, that it is not the extension you are looking for
L'errore 3, oltre a quello specificato nel video, consiste nel non rispettare il codice dei colori ed entrare con un cavo azzurro (che indica il neutro) e uscire con un cavo marrone (che indica una fase)
I don't even know anything of electric, but I like sooo much this videos xD
Cause you dont know anything about electric...
5.30 - where did you buy this stripper from? Great video thank you.
I had a single bad cable (short in length ground wire - not screwed properly) in a long run of different outlets and panels, and when i touched my pc case metal and a metal pipe nearby i would get funny little shocks(thankfully) .. The potential from case to ground was 80Vac(measured with a multimeter) but it was probably normal leakage from capacitors in the PSU accumulating as charge on the metal case. Cable was cut from 1 end and receptacle was replaced with another one. Lesson learned. Don't do things in a hurry and be fully concetrated. Thankfully the energy was low and no esd damage to pc.
Amateur. I had 230V AC on my case because I've plugged the plug wrong way. I had bridged 0 with ground pin because there was no ground, common practice in old installations. I was wondering for a month why my pc case feels like its stinging me in the leg.
Yeah your pc case (grounded), plus leaking psu capacitors by design would act as a parralel high resistance path of electrical return along the common company provided neutral. (zero). The high voltage on the case is because resistance was high, ie no voltage drop. By touching it you created another parralel high resistance neutral path from case to you to ground, to where company's neutral was grounded ie. the transformer of your home block. So u had a 3x neutrals of different resistances operating. U should probably install an RCD or a ground. So how did u solved it ?
Good video!
"A loose clamp in the power circuit could cause a fire."
"A too loose clamp could cause a fire."
"A LOOSE CLAMP IN THE POWER CIRCUIT COULD CAUSE A FIRE"
loose clamp make circuit go fire. got it.
What if u have have loose clamp?🤣🤣
@@soutzen Hmm I dunno
probably it will set your circuit on fire
I would always prefer soldering over crimping or twisting
Unless you're installing into something that is going to suffer vibration in which case crimps are superior
@@escortpwr05 mppt controllers or solar panels usually don't vibrate...
As a full time PAT tester, I see these mistakes all the time. I spend most of my time having to correct other peoples shoddy work
I got sent out to a commercial microwave that my boss repaired a few days earlier. After removing the cabinet to have a look at what the problem was, I touched the microwave with my left hand and a spark went about 6 inches from my right hand to the microwave. It was the worst shock I've ever had, my right hand was numb for 4 days. The transformer had blown and my boss had replaced it with one that "looked about right for the job". The transformer was too big and the coils were touching the cabinet. How the hell nobody died is a miracle, 1-inch rubber feet were all that stood in the way of 6 kitchen staff and 5000 volts.
@@davidwells7279 What a vivid imagination you have...
@@amdidextrous not a story bud, it happened.
Nice and knowledgeable video
Perfectly video.
Imagine what happened if he and ElectroBOOM met in a pub
I've done all of these and am still here, just. I must be lucky. I wonder why I never win the lottery, though?
None of those are mistakes, most of those were just improper execution. For example joining 2 cables, just solder them together. Another example is fitting a cable to a small connector (like this one 2:22), instead of cutting off part of the cable, bend out the part that the cable comes in IF POSSIBLE. Also addressing that "mistake", just use bigger pliers or solder it...
Thank you very much safety 100 .👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️❤️❤️ Love from India.
This guy is Italian! See the plug type
Ciao Daniele,bel video educativo.Per quanto riguarda l'errore 9,cioe collegare una schuko a una presa da 10 ampere,potremo anche dire che ormai è abitudine usare i cavi schuko per utilizzatori come televisori o PC che assorbono molto meno di 2200 w.Un televisore o un monitor che assorbono 100 watt,quindi meno di 0,5 ampere,però sono dotati di cavo con spina schuko non creano problemi a una presa da 10 A.,del resto la ciabatta a cui hai collegato la presa schuko ha un carico massimo di poco piu' di 10 A.
great videos, it proper wiring technics
Bravo!
Visto che tiri fuori l'argomento pinza crimpatrice per puntalini e fast-on, hai qualcosa da consigliare per connettori molex mini-fit ed amphenol fci per hobbysti che hanno progetti elettronici e collegamenti da fare?
13:33 I don't forget it. I forget return it back after... after which I measure the voltage of 220 volts :-) It looks very funny.
8:44 Ha!
That's what she said!
Okay I'm gonna go..
Molto grazie!!
Number 8 - I'm a professional and sometimes I make this mistake. Very dangerous on high voltages.
@Zannekin Sorry if I didn't describe it properly - if you switch your DVM to measure current (A) and then forget to return red probe to voltage (V) and then measure high voltage (220-240V) it will do short circuit and be very shocking. So, my point is - when measure current (A), don't forget to revert red probe back to voltage (V) if you measure voltage.
Cool, thanks.
without words
Good hints for the DIY.
However, this is not considered "Electrical Engineering". It is considered an electrician's "Means and Ways". On the professional level, 50+ years ago, we developed methods for terminations for nuclear power plants. This was similar to what you demonstrated with more professional tools with traceability, testing, and calibration. Definite training and retraining were also done.
It was interesting to watch and brought back fond memories ... thank you.
Whilst I think it's fantastic to alert others to incorrect practices it does annoy when you state the, "correct way" which isn't necessarily true. Yes terminals should be tightened adequately but your method using a hand screw driver can not deliver the correct tightening torque as specified by the manufacturer. What the vast majority of people fail to realise is a overtightened connection can sometimes be more destructive than a undertightened one. And as others have said the earthing conductor should always be longer on leads so as to be last to disconnect under strain. Oh and when using crimps of any sort conductors shouldn't be twisted tight.
No pasa nada si tenés el multímetro en corriente y las puntas en tensión, ya que posee extremadamente alta impedancia de entrada. El problema es cuando tenés la medición en tensión y las puntas en corriente, ahí tenés una impedancia interna que tiende a cero y haces un cortocircuito.
Además en 15:34 dices que está mal pero al principio del vídeo dices que está bien.
what i have to do when i don't have grounded?
Ciao Daniele, ottimi video che fai e ottimi consigli per principianti come me, l'unico appunto che mi sento di darti è questo: fai pure il video con il testo in inglese, ma il commento potresti farlo in italiano, visto che tanti come me di inglese non ne capiscono un tubo. Grazie
Don't get tangled in your desires..loose wires cause fires. If you're building something that Line power is going through. Make sure it's not between you and the door when you turn it on. That's the most important thing.
9:50. There should be 2 crimps, not 1
10:25. NEVER EVER TWIST WIRES ON A SCREWED CONNECTION
Very useful.
Always crimp ferrules multiple times . Otherwise wire may slip out of ferrule.
Ciao Daniele,
Anche questo video è ben realizzato e utile, come è nel tuo stile.
piccole precisazioni: nell'errore 4 sulle prolunghe, l'errore più grave è usare, con un cavo a due poli, terminazioni con polo e alveoli centrali, la prolunga, in questo caso, sarebbe utilizzabile solo con le apparecchiature in doppio isolamento, che non hanno di fabbrica il polo centrale sulle loro spine.
Nell'errore numero 8, molto più grave è tentare una misura di tensione con i cavi collegato all'entrata in corrente.
Se cerchi di misurare una corrente con i cavi attestati alla presa della tensione, grazie all'alta impedenza del tester potresti non veder funzionare il circuito; e nel caso otterresti una lettura sbagliata; la cosa è fuorviante soprattutto se stai cercando un guasto ma finisce li e soprattutto se prima della misura il circuito in esame funzionava, ti accorgi dell'errore.
Ma se misuri una tensione con i cavi sull'entrata di corrente (che solitamente presentano una resistenza bassissima, quasi un cortocircuito) ottieni di mettere in cortocircuito il "generatore di corrente/tensione" sotto esame con un effetto quasi sicuramente disastroso per il tester e per l'operatore.
Se si tratta di un alimentatore con protezione in corrente attiva e ben calibrata va tutto bene;
ma se stai misurando sulla rete o controllando la tensione ai capi di una batteria per auto, ti posso assicurare che ben che ti vada devi cambiare tester!
Ciao e ai prossimi video :-)
Lo stavo per scrivere anche io...ancora più pericoloso nell'errore 8 è misurare una tensione avendo dimenticato di spostare i puntali sull'ingresso corretto. Lasciarli sull'ingresso in corrente equivale a mettere in corto circuito i due punti che stiamo misurando. Negli impianti fotovoltaici per esempio le tensioni lato continua sono molto alte (600-1000V) e sarebbe molto pericoloso per l'operatore aver dimenticato di spostare i puntali sull'ingresso corretto del tester. Video sempre molto utile e ottimo montaggio! Bravo Daniele
thank you for advertising... I mean Demonstrating
Thank you gratefully.
All of this advice are important, and cause of fire, then ignored.
Where are you from? Too many sockets and plugs in one video)
I believe he is from Italy, some of the plugs are European style like the round one, and I think I heard his son/daughter talk to him in Italian
You did number 6 wrong, the splice crimp is meant to be crimped at each end separately, imagine it like a bullet and socket crimp pushed together.
Sempre bravissimo Daniele. aggiungerei per chi cambia i fusibili soprattutto su apparecchi costosi, la lettera avanti all'amperaggio del fusibile e' importantissima per esempio : T significa fusibile ritardato. M fusibile con medio ritardo , F Fusibile Rapido
Very helpful
Thanks
Thanks very good
muito bom ! Very good !
Remember kids, never put your fingers in electrical sockets( european ones, they have larger holes)