First off, a battery impact WILL crush it effectively. No two ways about. To think a battery won't is from someone that is living five years ago, with regard to strength of battery impacts. My two battery impacts are stronger than my air impacts. Secondly, if you do enough of these, you can FEEL and UNDERSTAND when it's where it should be ... I crush WELL beyond what my dial indicator says it should be ... otherwise, it's too loose. So I no longer use the dial ... simply by feel. And, to date , with over 15 done this way, is always correct. Unless you work on these rear ends fairly regularly, your comments that he doesn't know what he is doing ... or this is a video on what not to do is silly. If you KNOW, you KNOW! The trick is to no OVER crush, just in case. GREAT VIDEO, man. From a 30 year JEEP guy/mechanic!
I see no dial indicator torque wrench, you have done a couple of these so you know exactly what your talking about? You don't have the axles in or the ring gear, differential, there is absolutely no way to determine if you have it to spec, you have just crushed the sleeve its not good anymore, no pinion seal in so its gotta come back out. People this is a great video of what not to do
I do the complete install before I install the seal, I use the old nut, when I put it together for permanent I use the new nut.. turning while tightening up is for the proper preload on the pinion bearings. this is crushing a brand new crush sleeve to gain that preload.
The pinion preload is for pinion only , then u gotta add 7_11 lbs (dana 30) every axle model little different, 7-11lbs for total preload , thats Carrier and pinion , u do NOT add seal yet because it creates extra drag which creates ex inch lbs then u don't get true reading for preload if seal is installed, that's the only way to b able to test Carrier bearing preload, only thing I do different is use old nut to get crush sleeve started crushing to about 5-8 in lbs then take it off and put red loctite on threads then use new nut to finish it off , then install seal , the seal will add around 3 or 4 in lbs... my suggestion to you is know exactly what your talking about b4 u get on internet and make a fool of ur self , 😉
Just what I was looking for... changing the begins in Dana 35, when I thought "oh shit," there's an 1/8 of slack, after tightening-- skinny arm tight... but the impact is the real trick ahy, the Greece too making it easier.. I love my lil Jeep...
Great video! im using your tip for my dana30 bearing change next week. but could you describe the force which is needed to turn the yoke, because I don’t got a dial inch wrench and this is will be my first pinion preload setup so I don’t got the right feel yet that’s why im unsure about how much force the yoke should have to start spinning, but eventually im overthinking things, thx man
You must have a good gun.I marked my pinion bolt and took a picture before unscrewing it. Iv rebuilt my differential and now i need just 1 full spin to tighten to how was before. Need to find a less expensive route to tighten that bolt
Thanks for the video , but I have a serious question. You are not going to reuse the old crush sleeve , I get that . So if you crush down the new sleeve and than remove it only to reuse it in the final assembly you are actually using an old sleeve. Why and how is that better than just using the crushed sleeve you started with?
Well the old crush sleeve has been through a lot, and you know metal when it gets fatigue is not going to handle... especially if you're changing to a lower gear.. but once the new crush sleeve is crushed it doesn't get crushed anymore, everything's brand new. And another difference between that new crush leaving the old one is there's no way that old one is going to be this automatically perfect? for the new bearings and new pinion. What are your thoughts?
OK, I see your point. Not being a pro I thought using the old sleeve might eliminate a potential error in reassembly. For the nominal cost of the new sleeve that would be foolish not to replace it. A job worth doing is a job done right.
Another reason why you always want to use a new crush sleeve is the tolerance between the different parts will have a different distance that the sleeve actually crushes
Use the new crush sleeve, I come to you from the future to say the old tension on the old sleeve will not hold the bearings / pinion will come loose. A real FAFO moment
I was having an epic battle with a GM 8.5 and was about to start going nuclear before seeing this. Was able to get everything set up with a battery powered impact after pulling the nut and washer off and lubing them up.
Are you in Utah by chance, got liberty pinion seal that was replaced by drive line shop. I have noise at 40. I tried replacing hub bearings,cv shaft still there. 80-90 dino put in 70k I messed up because calls 75 140 syn. Jeep switched it on 05 liberty missed memo lol. Still trying figure out. Too tight pre load on pinion?
This is exactly how I set mine up, except I did it with the seal installed and the new nut. I also verified rolling torque with my dial torque wrench. I guess I don't understand why you set preloaded with a used nut and no seal? I was taught that once preloaded is set, don't touch it. I "uncrush" and re-crush the old sleeve for setup, and crush the new sleve for final assembly. ...again stopping when the new sleeve is properly set and never moving it again. Regardless, the impact gun method works great 👍. Excellent vid.
So I bought the dewalt half inch impact. That thing is a beast. 1200 lbs break away torque, up to 700 lbs forward torque. 3 settings. 1 is 100 lbs, 2 is 300 lbs, and 3 is 700 lbs. I did this trick after struggling for a while and wow, so easy. I think I went a little to far though. 5 months later and my seal is leaking again.
Yea so your video really didnt show anyone $hit...what was the point? If you would measure pinion depth or measure the original depth to the new pinion measurements marked on the gear, you can do this with a new gear, new bearing, new seal and new crush washer from the beginnig and NOT have to take it back apart...This is why ASE and 'real' dealer training is important. Not sure what the point of this was and what you think you discovered.
Problem… using an impact gun to crush sleeve and set preload will mar bearings causing pits in your bearings. Much better to use a torque multiplier, steady torque from a cheater bar and measure your preload with an inch pound wrench
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT BATTERY IMPACT POPPED THAT CRUSH SLEEVE. It was either pre crushed in a press or you made it look like it was done right and it’s not. That yoke looks way too loose still probably still had lateral play
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
First off, a battery impact WILL crush it effectively. No two ways about. To think a battery won't is from someone that is living five years ago, with regard to strength of battery impacts. My two battery impacts are stronger than my air impacts. Secondly, if you do enough of these, you can FEEL and UNDERSTAND when it's where it should be ... I crush WELL beyond what my dial indicator says it should be ... otherwise, it's too loose. So I no longer use the dial ... simply by feel. And, to date , with over 15 done this way, is always correct. Unless you work on these rear ends fairly regularly, your comments that he doesn't know what he is doing ... or this is a video on what not to do is silly. If you KNOW, you KNOW! The trick is to no OVER crush, just in case. GREAT VIDEO, man. From a 30 year JEEP guy/mechanic!
Cool man thanks a lot good stuff
I have a battery impact wrench and it will not crush it.
MY GUY! I am about to do two dana 44's and will be sharing this tip on my channel. I will be sure to throw some love your way. Thank you so much!
Hey man how did it work for you
I see no dial indicator torque wrench, you have done a couple of these so you know exactly what your talking about? You don't have the axles in or the ring gear, differential, there is absolutely no way to determine if you have it to spec, you have just crushed the sleeve its not good anymore, no pinion seal in so its gotta come back out. People this is a great video of what not to do
Agreed
I do the complete install before I install the seal, I use the old nut, when I put it together for permanent I use the new nut.. turning while tightening up is for the proper preload on the pinion bearings. this is crushing a brand new crush sleeve to gain that preload.
@@jeepstyle4054 😂
What a butcher!!
The pinion preload is for pinion only , then u gotta add 7_11 lbs (dana 30) every axle model little different, 7-11lbs for total preload , thats Carrier and pinion , u do NOT add seal yet because it creates extra drag which creates ex inch lbs then u don't get true reading for preload if seal is installed, that's the only way to b able to test Carrier bearing preload, only thing I do different is use old nut to get crush sleeve started crushing to about 5-8 in lbs then take it off and put red loctite on threads then use new nut to finish it off , then install seal , the seal will add around 3 or 4 in lbs... my suggestion to you is know exactly what your talking about b4 u get on internet and make a fool of ur self , 😉
Just what I was looking for... changing the begins in Dana 35, when I thought "oh shit," there's an 1/8 of slack, after tightening-- skinny arm tight... but the impact is the real trick ahy, the Greece too making it easier.. I love my lil Jeep...
Great video! im using your tip for my dana30 bearing change next week. but could you describe the force which is needed to turn the yoke, because I don’t got a dial inch wrench and this is will be my first pinion preload setup so I don’t got the right feel yet that’s why im unsure about how much force the yoke should have to start spinning, but eventually im overthinking things,
thx man
You must have a good gun.I marked my pinion bolt and took a picture before unscrewing it. Iv rebuilt my differential and now i need just 1 full spin to tighten to how was before. Need to find a less expensive route to tighten that bolt
Thanks for the video , but I have a serious question. You are not going to reuse the old crush sleeve , I get that . So if you crush down the new sleeve and than remove it only to reuse it in the final assembly you are actually using an old sleeve. Why and how is that better than just using the crushed sleeve you started with?
Well the old crush sleeve has been through a lot, and you know metal when it gets fatigue is not going to handle... especially if you're changing to a lower gear.. but once the new crush sleeve is crushed it doesn't get crushed anymore, everything's brand new. And another difference between that new crush leaving the old one is there's no way that old one is going to be this automatically perfect? for the new bearings and new pinion.
What are your thoughts?
OK, I see your point. Not being a pro I thought using the old sleeve might eliminate a potential error in reassembly. For the nominal cost of the new sleeve that would be foolish not to replace it. A job worth doing is a job done right.
Another reason why you always want to use a new crush sleeve is the tolerance between the different parts will have a different distance that the sleeve actually crushes
Use the new crush sleeve, I come to you from the future to say the old tension on the old sleeve will not hold the bearings / pinion will come loose. A real FAFO moment
I was having an epic battle with a GM 8.5 and was about to start going nuclear before seeing this. Was able to get everything set up with a battery powered impact after pulling the nut and washer off and lubing them up.
This helped me thanks brother!!
whats the max torque on the dewalt impact?
Are you in Utah by chance, got liberty pinion seal that was replaced by drive line shop. I have noise at 40. I tried replacing hub bearings,cv shaft still there. 80-90 dino put in 70k I messed up because calls 75 140 syn. Jeep switched it on 05 liberty missed memo lol. Still trying figure out. Too tight pre load on pinion?
Hard to follow call Stacked Offroad in Charlotte North Carolina tomorrow
This is exactly how I set mine up, except I did it with the seal installed and the new nut. I also verified rolling torque with my dial torque wrench.
I guess I don't understand why you set preloaded with a used nut and no seal?
I was taught that once preloaded is set, don't touch it.
I "uncrush" and re-crush the old sleeve for setup, and crush the new sleve for final assembly. ...again stopping when the new sleeve is properly set and never moving it again.
Regardless, the impact gun method works great 👍. Excellent vid.
So I bought the dewalt half inch impact. That thing is a beast. 1200 lbs break away torque, up to 700 lbs forward torque. 3 settings. 1 is 100 lbs, 2 is 300 lbs, and 3 is 700 lbs.
I did this trick after struggling for a while and wow, so easy. I think I went a little to far though. 5 months later and my seal is leaking again.
Yea so your video really didnt show anyone $hit...what was the point? If you would measure pinion depth or measure the original depth to the new pinion measurements marked on the gear, you can do this with a new gear, new bearing, new seal and new crush washer from the beginnig and NOT have to take it back apart...This is why ASE and 'real' dealer training is important. Not sure what the point of this was and what you think you discovered.
What the hell is he talking about?
Don't listen to him. He does not show how to measure preload
Problem… using an impact gun to crush sleeve and set preload will mar bearings causing pits in your bearings. Much better to use a torque multiplier, steady torque from a cheater bar and measure your preload with an inch pound wrench
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT BATTERY IMPACT POPPED THAT CRUSH SLEEVE. It was either pre crushed in a press or you made it look like it was done right and it’s not. That yoke looks way too loose still probably still had lateral play