Inside CCHRC: Thermal storage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- 79% of the energy consumption accounts for space heating in a single household in Alaska. This video explores the use of thermal storage to mitigate the cost of space heating while pursuing the use of renewable resources to heat the living space.
In the fall of 2013, a 25,000-gallon tank was buried next to the CCHRC building addition. The CCHRC aims to heat the new building without the use of fossil fuel. Bruno Grunau, CCHRC research engineer, explains that the thermal storage will provide 40 to 45% of heat required to heat the building. Grunau, also shows what consideration went into the use of thermal storage in his own home in Fairbanks.
Thank you for this video quite a few good ideas i can use. Especially the fabric stratifier and the buried tank with just a thin liner
wow! fantastic intructive video! the stratifier is especially clever! I'd use a closed separated heat transfer system though with glycol as transfer medium. as a Swedish eco architect I think I can safely say this method will be very useful in heating with low environmental load in colder climates all around the world. thanks!
do they use an electric heatpump to further crick up the efficiency?
@@WillemsMathias Yes indeed. 4,5-5,5 COP dependent on the make of the heat pump (fex. water/water)
I've never thought of water stratifying like that, that's so cool!
I have a cool idea for a quick project for that tank;
Make a display and a line of thermo-probes that find the levels of water temperature changes, just like your diagram.
You could probably hack one togather in a couple of days with an arduino or raspberry pi.
Water without pressure has a limit to how much energy it can store. Whereas if you were using sand as the storage medium instead you could heat it to 600 degrees. And since it is a semi fluid you can get heat to stratify in it readily.
Which liquid medium would you use ? I've seen oil based video solutions but fire hazard and pressure explosions are a concern but if underground the risk is mitigated.
You’d have to use a considerable degree of solar concentration to get 600° either F or C, though obviously a lot more in the case of Celsius. I’d use air as my transfer medium but it would require some sort of pump for circulation. Maybe multiple, porous, ceramic risers for the stratification system as sand will not disperse heat along strata as readily as in water. Of course, if you’re using combustion as your heat source, 600° is easily obtainable.
Not sure if the greater complication would be worth it. Those high pressure air pumps could be expensive or dodgy or both, IYAM, and you might need a tracking array to achieve those temperatures.
@@q.e.d.9112 no. Use electric inductive air heating and pump the air through tubes. That is how Polar Night is doing it.
honestly people, we should simply be using nuclear reactors
But that's useless if you don't have a source reaching those temps. 90C is already pushing it with solar heating. They're not using electricity for heating; others doing it like that is very irrelevant.
Awesome video and great explanation of how your system works.
I’ve been plumbing for 5 years now and it’s sad how much I just learnt! ENERGY COMPANIES ARE EVIL. THIS MAN IS A SAINT!!!
Wonderful video, very good description of the stratification.
The irony of the BP banner hanging off the balcony
Well…
Nice project sir… this is great NEWS for anybody in the US and Canada… maybe …
Here in Europe/Germany about ten years ago, a engineer build himself a new house and had the same type of storage tank sitting in the middle of the house… he actually build his house AROUND the tank … and is for over ten years now not only energy self reliant, but his house is using LESS energy overall and he is in surplus… married with two kids … all the usual appliance.
Excellent setup, I will be building a more basic system to experiment on at home. Loving these different ways of thinking!
I don't know how the copper pipe would react to it, but way more heat can be stored in the same water volume with potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate salts dissolved in the water. I think 40% potassium to about 60% sodium mix being most effective and of course, the more dessolved in, the more heat it can hold. I don't think they're near as corrosive as sodium chlorite (seasalt, table, common salt) and they are good fertilizers.
Mmmm tasty, im definitely hiring you for my plumbing needs.
Fantastic idea !
Tank you so much for sharing !
👍
I am fascinated by all this, but go back to comparing all this set-up to just having buried air tubes to harvest Earth ambient temp air (55F in Wisconsin) to feed into a high efficiency heat exchanger (Mini split) system in winter with solar and batteries. Adding reflective material in winter months to harvest more lumens, remove in the Spring. I agree, start with a building that needs less heat and cooling (SIP'S are 2 1/2 times stronger and 15 times tighter than stick built) and add these systems. I think I would go with a sand battery under the house "charged" over the summer and fall.
First time I've seen your channel, just subscribed. LOVE what your doing and looking at doing something similar. I may incorporate some of your ideas. TY for sharing.
Really cool setup. Perhaps in the future you can try to get more thermal storage capacity out of that tank by utilizing the latent heat of fusion also. And combine that with a heat pump.
@Tom WaterFooler latent heat from the water turning from a liquid to ice, the phase change.
Yet it is still oil and chemicals that give you steel, solar panels, etc. Green is good and needs to be our goal but we must learn how to make oil more efficient and less polluting because it is still the key to all the other energy sources, even when we reduce our dependance upon it. This was a great video.
if i unterstood correctly
he needs to nonstop burn wood in the winter to get his tank onto the used temperature?
so he can use that tank in the summer and doesnt need extra fuel based heat
is it usefull to do that kind of heating? why not use solarpower to get electrical heat?
Definitely interested in how this is working out, would love to do something very similar just south of you.
I am interested how it works for you. I have never heard of a stratifier. One problem I see though, is that water conducts heat extremely well. Also moving water around in a tank, even if it is injected at the right level will cause currents which will cause the different layers to mix. You will likely have to heat up large quantity of water in order to heat up enough water to heat the coil. That will take a long time, and by that time the tank will be at about a uniform temperature.
I does not work like you mentioned, a warmer water acts like an oil and water, the layers in the tank never mix with each other. This is convection principle or whatever it's called. The heat accumulator should be always heated up from the top to the bottom, I mean, using the main source of energy, so you always have the energy available from the tank even if the tank is not fully "charged".
@@udaizd You are correct, it's the same as normal hot water immersion tanks work in the home, the hot and cold water split with all the heat up top, and we have been using this system for over 100 years now.
@@udaizd This video shows the mixing of hot and cold water. Also the dissipation (at least somewhat) of heat over ten-minute period. In the original video it would take probably take two days or a week or a month or something like that to get enough hot water. This would allow for a lot of dissipation of heat even if the water layers didn't mix.
th-cam.com/video/H0xB15fNzHc/w-d-xo.html
Maybe consider putting a "Greenhouse" outside and Surrounding the Primary house, to also allow a Growing Space in the Mid Space outside the house, but inside the Greenhouse?
I've see such in both Norway and in Sweden, on TH-cam! Alaska should be similar benefits!
Thank you so much for the video, GREAT implantation. Are there any data on the internet yet ?What have you used for electronic compenens for Control of the temps? The stratefire what is it made of ? Please make some updates. Greatings from Denmark
I would think any pipe that has fine holes in will surfice. Personnally I would keep the tank water separate and use indirect piping as a heat exchanger. So the tank water never leaves the tank.
@@dcawkwell how can you then get the stratification?
Nnn. Ok I boo I Kp p PLLC
@@ybaggi You just have coils that reaches over the layers, it has the same effect. The water that circulates in the floor heating will coil from the bottom to the top that way the cold water leaving the floors will incremently get hotter as it moves up in the coil. You can also place the coils in different levels depending on your heat source. The solar collectors wont heat as high temperature as the masonary heater for example. But when you have this many heat sources and usages it sure is clever and flexible to use that stratifier sock he has.
Great work! Please work to simplify and reduce costs.
How do you calculate the volume of water or sand you need to heat the structure for a given time? Is there a reference for BTUs per pound of storage substance?
Historic hotel In Colorado- We have an large boiler tank that we are thinking about spray foam insulating, filling the tank with sand or rocks and burying under an outside dual purpose music stage/coffee shop seating area,. We have plenty of sunshine and hope to provide at least some some degree of heat during the winter. We would like to find a use for this tank, and expand our outside activities.
I remember years ago the Japanese company Toshiba I believe is the one that was trying to develop these RTG devices which would provide heat for at least forty years and do it safely. That will be a perfect solution for a low pressure heating system that would last a lifetime.
...except the power levels are likely way too low, or the price so astronomical, or those combined with the containment concerns involved with radioactive materials that would make such devices unsuitable for much other than space probes and a few other rather unique circumstances.
I’d love to see you add “health” and “air quality” sensors to this. From what I’m looking at, there’s a potential for bacteria issues, and maybe radon from the basement(?). Just spit-balling challenges. Love most of the design overall. As others have said, I’d be curious about how using a molten-salt form of energy storage would change the dynamics. All the best to you.
Maybe UV lighting inside the tanks to control bacteria?
I'm unsure if bacteria will really be a problem. The potable water is completely contained in that copper coil heat exchanger. The in-floor heating and solar-thermal panel water is the only water that is cycling in the main body of the tank.
Add a Phase Change Material (PCM) to your hot water tank for a boost to your heat storage. If you could find a source of cheap wax, fill a number of balloons with it and toss them in. That would add an additional 200kJ of heat per kg of wax as long as the temperature of your tank stayed above 130F long enough to melt all of it.
😅😅😅😊😊
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I'm curious about the two methods, the insulated steel tank, and the insulated box under your house. Would it not be feasible to make a large version of the insulated box rather than the tank? How about this, a 20' x 10' x 10' hole in the ground, line it with pond-liner material to keep water out, then line it with hard foam insulation, then rebar and concrete like a swimming pool? I have not thought through how to cover it but some kind of ridge frame, then foam, then a sheet of pond liner. Would all that be more expensive than the tank?
nice. used thermosypion shower and laundry for years.. no problem with 160 degree water...
scald guard shower! salvage electric water heater... 2 3x7 boxed and glazed panels .. big tank stratification.. next is sand battery. dc direct.. for hvac
and what happened ? how many wood is gone for the winter? how long the storage holds between the burns ? 2 - 3 - 5 days?
Show the url to the heat balance calc... rhetorical?
Hi Bruno, you told in the video about the data ; is that available. Please can you show us where the data is accessible? I did search for this kind of system to build next to our new to build home.
Maybe I did miss it some how; the water tight 1/8" foil, what kind of material is that?
Is there any follow up about the 25000 tank and appandages?
Do you have somewhere more info and data about your water box under your home?
Please let the info come!! Thank you.
You could have a higher yield if you used sand instead of water, as heat storage
this is the way to go! thanks for sharing
I’m in a slightly warmer climate in the mountains of Japan, and am about to build a ducted air system using a sand battery of 3 cubic meters with solar panels running the heating elements.
The idea is to get the core above 600 degrees Celsius, and top it up on sunny days, i wonder how they’ll compare?
Hello: I am interested in how well the water stratifying sock is working? Any info you can send me would b great! I am considering doing a similar water storage idea. thank you, Ben
So I looked them up and I can’t find any details about this project on there website…
Great idea for a cold area. I do just the opposite for a hot area
Very impressive technology!
How hot do you run your tank, and how hot can the vinyl liner and the Styrofoam withstand?
máš to ve videu ty cype
R1.15 in the ceiling? In Belgium my ceiling was insulated to R1.7, about 5 years ago, and it was deemed insufficient in the building report, so I put another layer of insulation to bring it up to R3.20 which is the most common now. I can't imagine living under a R1.15 ceiling in Alaska! 🥶
I think it’s in inch pound units. R-115 is the equivalent of 20.7 m2K/W
He said R115 in the ceiling and R70 in the wall, not R1.15. It is R values in the inch pound system because he is in not america. The R value unit there is in (°F⋅ft2⋅h/BTU) the metric R values are in (K⋅m2/W) the conversion is the R_metric * 5.68 = R_inch-pound . So the insulation in metic R is R 20.25 for the celing and R 12 in the walls. So the celine R value is around 12x higher then you have.
I'm looking to utilize a liquid to liquid heat pump system, 3 reservoirs 1 hot ,1 cold,1 neutral. Each faucet should have a return line for flushing the undesired water temp out of the pipe. When point of use reaches temperature solenoid opens allowing water to flow out of faucet. I thought about applying such a system to the fridge, A/C, etc. Utilizing a central heat pump setup would greatly help efficiency imo. Imagine a central geothermal heat pump system for a small neighborhood. Maintain it just like an essential utility like water or gas. Energy use on the grid would be dramatically reduced, especially if the system was powered via solar.
Bad audio everything unclear . why the huge tank outside ??? When you have the tank inside ?
Curious how top of tank closes up ?
The Thermal mas was 8' x 9'' x 10' 720 cubic Feet.
Why not have done a 20' x 20' x 2' (800 cubic ft) 'sub-sub floor 'slab', since you were building up anyways?
This would given you have options as to how that heat gets up through the subfloor (air circulation path, floor heating circulation (lass draw horsepower for lift needed over lt) . Dual 10' x 20' x 2' can be done, depending on the sub floor, or if the bottom of a basement area, even as a greenhouse floor. Done using the same design as for a slab containers. Circulation of a store to release differential system can be done from the house wake/sleep south/north areas back/forth to regulate. Straight copper manifold is more efficient transfer of heat than the single coil method.
Have you looked at sand for your energy storage rather than water....much more efficient as you would heat the sand box with hot water from your panels and heat the building with a coil in the sand also.
If l am correct a city in Finland uses this method to heat all the residents buildings!
how you prevent humidity coming to house? If you put tank under ground and if it leak heat to ground that ground will be warmer than cellar floor. That wil push humidity from ground to building.
We dont need new types of energy-saving devices. We need new governments that don't have the power to regulate the thousands of years of hydrocarbon energy and the limitless amount of nuclear energy that could drive the cost of heating to near zero. This is because of the terrible government.
To je dobrý úlet. Kdyby si raději za ty prachy postavil pasivní dům, nemusel topení řešit. Jen je potřeba navštívit takový dům a přepnout ze starého myšlení na vytápění na myšlení úspory a využití energie a trochu se uskromnit v rozměrech domu. Já takový dům navštívil a jsem z toho nadšený, venku bylo -1°C a uvnitř bez topení seděli v kraťasech v 22,5°C. V krušných mrazech musí přitápět rekuperací. Spotřeba celého domu za rok 6MW. Podpořit to ještě FVE, tak to bude půlka. Pecka a budoucnost energetické úspory. Jen na to stát neslyší, ten podporuje uhlo/plyno/elektro barony. Stavit dnes dům, měl bych jasno
6MHh
Is the tank cheaper than using a borehole to store heat?
So you want to match the incoming water with the right heat layer in the tank so you don't dilute or average out the whole tank I take it?
Correct. If the bottom half is 70 degrees and the top half is 150 degrees you can still effectively heat using the 150 degree water. You need a temperature difference for the water to do any real work.
If it were averaged out to 110 in the tank then it wouldnt be hot enough to use for thr domestic hot water and it would not fully heat the house either (though could still perhaps keep it warmish).
Think about your water heater, it does this same stratification. If you are taking a shower youbare happy as lon as the water comes out hot right? Maybe there is only 5 gallons of hotnwater left in the tabk, but younare happy. If it were all mixed up partway through the shower and the temp dropped to 75 you would no longer be happy with the showet
@coldclimatehousing I'd just heard about sand batteries in Finland
Are there any calculations that show how much of the winter heating requirement this storage covers ?
I'm guessing not very much.
Alternatively, please advise of water volumes, insulation specs and solar panel output, so we can do our own calculations.
yeah, its called thermodynamics
mass*specific heat*temp=energy
assuming a spherical chicken in a vacuum, the results follow easily. However including the various losses and other poor assumptions take it from 5th grade to phd real fast
@@5347robo I studied Engineering, so am familiar with thermodynamics 🙂
I just would like to see some evidence of the calculations for this installation, as most people just don't put a big expensive tank in their garden without doing some calculations to show how much energy can be stored and how long that will last for. So capacity as you suggest, plus heat loss, solar input calcs and requirements for the house.
If I do it, I need to estimate the volume of their tank, estimate the insulation spec etc. Would be far more interesting to see the actual calculations for this installation, with real dimensions.
I guess it might be more interesting in climates where there is more winter sun & scope for solar in that season, as I really doubt this will have anywhere near enough capacity or insulation for a proper winter season with less sun.
@@jxj2684 ah, I see I too would like to see the real world performance data.
It doesnt look like they cut corners, so I would assume its relativley efficient
So wats the total cost ... to install
Why do you need the stratifier sock? What happens if you don't have it? - Wouldn't the water move by itself per temperature & buoyancy?
molten salt is a good thermal energy retainer and transfer medium used in solar farms.
Is there a way to heat without using any wood to supplement? Would a larger tank carry you over? How many days of heat do you get with this system?
What are the caloric losses from the tank walls?
300mm EPS 0,114 W/(m²K). Tank area is 24m². So it will leak 2.7 watts every kelvin/centigrade above ambient. So when water is heated to 60C (140F) then tank leaks 100 watt. Luckily almost all heat leaks into the house so it's actually not a loss, rather a useful heating.
I wonder if that tank would work better filled with sand and the water ran in a closed loop...
Sorry why when you speak off green energie, we can see the logo of BP ??? On one of the first image of your video.
Not using fossil fuels it's a good think, but I see a lot of Eps foam insulation...
Very interesting concept! Here in Sweden we use geothermal heating with deep vertical bore holes. I'm curious if you know how your system compares to it?
The deeper the better. The earth is warmer there. Free warmth. This system here needs the warmth to be put in first before you can extract it.
Tiur outdoor water tank : shouldn’t I be standing up to better separate the different layers of warm and colder water ?
Idea to consider is wood chips and vegetable oil wick 👌🏻
Wouldn't the polystyrene and vinyl liners start leeching chemicals into the water due to all that heat ?
no problem, drinkable water goes trough that coil and never touches with tank water.
I have did see Sand because you can heat it over 500Deg C so better as water and longer storage !! What you think ??
how about putting it directly in the house
Although this is a great solution for Heating storage, by far its not the most economic and the most efficient. A home made sand heating battery will work better, cheaper, and anyone can build it by themselves if they can access the equipment (high temperature blowers, pumps, etc).
would u be willed to share further information on privmsg? Greetings Jonathan
@@Anorectic.Bumblebee you can search online for batsand sand battery
I have never understood why Americans have such big houses that cost a lot more to heat and cool I mean like 3BR, Lounge, Den, Dining Room, Kitchen, Home Theatre, Sunroom, Library - I have a standard 3BR Aussie double brick house as it's so difficult to heat in winter we live in two-rooms kitchen and lounge makes heating a lot easier as we cannot have wood heating causes too much smoke pollution and mallee timber these days a ton is as expensive as gas. instant heat wood heating takes too long to produce significant heat.
US - 4% World population consuming 40% Worlds resources...
08:26 - How long will that weave stay free of limescale?
Tank not buried fylly below the ground trips my OCD
if the tank could be pressurized to only 5 psi then a cryocooler could provide you with liquid co2 in the summer that can be used to not only spin a turbine as it expands but also provide cooling for the house..using solar power to run the turboexpander could make it net zero or even positive
I'd love to see your calculations and hate to write cheques for materials and installation for what you describe. There is no suggestion we need electrical generation from the client here. Surely using solar and to run a heat pump would be better if heat not electricity is the name of the game.
awesome indoor pool
Any concerns about Legionnaires disease? Algae growth?
Because it is a closed loop system the water in the tank doesn't get extracted. Fresh water flows through the heat exchanger (copper pipe spiral) in a just in time, as needed for showers etc. Heat exposure time is too little for Legionäre bacteria to occur. Most algae problems occur only when the water is exposed to sunlight which doesn't occur in his system.
how is the system worhink, after 1 year ?
I have thought about using solar water heating, but always come up against water freezing in the exterior system when it is not producing heat. How are you able to overcome that barrier in Alaska?
The most common solution is using a glycol water mix. The glycol drops the freezing point way down but it's more expensive than water. Another low tech solution would be a drainback system. Basically a valve opens and all the water drains down to an insulated tank. A problem with a drainback system is that if installed incorrectly not all water will drain and there will be ice damage.
Don't be nuts! How could you ever afford to build it and then let it freeze? This is inter seasonal storage, and once it is warm you would never allow it to get to freeze. You would pump it out rather than incur the cost of glycol. You could however make a business case for a PCM at about 50'C.
Thank you!
How has this system worked for you? I've been thinking of doing the same. Ty
dude if you want to use let heating oil and fuel move closer to the equator, or live in a smaller house. r115 in the cieling? these materials your using are created by using non renewable fuel sorces, how much fuel did it cost to make all these materials?, steel tank, pray foam, copper tubing, concrete, ect. if you equate all these things you could have just burned the oil in a smaller house, and it would haveprovided you with a life time of heat, have fun recycling that tank and decaying foam leaching into the water supply.
Don't really get how you're going to prevent conduction from equalizing your temps within days .
Superb.
The other thing I don’t understand about your storage tank, what reason if any did you not bury it deeper
The Earth would hold your heat far better if it was deeper underground I don’t understand why you didn’t go deeper doesn’t make a lot of sense
Who came up with a pressure sock idea? A small wind turbine or solar panel running a water pump activated by a thermostatic switch would run the water only when the sun is up for recirculation or when programed differetly. A copper coil of pipe wrapped around the chimney of a rocket stove would heat up all in floor heating if the ground collection stopped working, fyi.
Gallons? It´s not in the International System of Units. You should, at least, use a "subtitle" to show it in m3.
Congratulations for the system design and thanks for sharing. May I suggest that your system could be improved with a 3 to 4 panel photovoltaic kit working in DC (no inverter required) connected to a heating rod so no wood to burn required.
Why to use electricity to produce heat ? It is the worst sun's energy conversion rate....
@@AutoNomades Simplicity and durability. Plumbing through the roof is challenging to get right and stay right in the best of situations, and when you're off grid in a very cold climate (no thermosiphon, must have glycol loop or drain back) and the nearest plumber capable of handling leaks and other issues is hours away at best, it's worth sacrificing efficiency for the reliability and safety of no moving parts and water pipes going through the roof.
@@AutoNomades Maybe because the capital investment required to produce that heat is so low that efficiency comes in second place
@@bimibericaMEP So it is more money - efficient to do a solar electric heat battery than a thermal one? Could differents datas would influence on it ? Wich?
@@AutoNomadeswell it depends if you have net export and or battery storage but the reality is the water heating by "surplus" PV-generated electricity would be used to adjust the low thermal content of water for consumption, e.g. washing, showers and baths, to the desired distribution temperature for such systems before such power is used for central heating water
if the tank is buried at 6 feet then the constant temp should mean that the water inside never drops below 58 degrees.. meaning you are only having to heat the water 12 degrees F or so. or even if too expensive to dig that deep thermal ground loops that only open once the water temp has dropped would accomplish the same thing??
Except in Alaska they still have permafrost
Very interesting system. Please let us know when performance data is online for viewing. (Hopefully your instrumentation system is as well thought out as the space heating system itself.)
At the end of the day, it's the system performance data over time and in various outside temperature scenarios that is where the rubber meets the road. Green technologies have to work and deliver at cost/btu. Plus there is the question of embodied energy in the materials used - systems have to be widely deployable to begin to make a dent in global energy impact.
Still, every creative experiment is a learning opportunity, no matter how it turns out. Hope you'll freely share your performance results so we can all understand how things are performing.
P.S. I encountered an interesting experiment in small, passive solar heated shelters for homeless people that didn't seem to work and I have always wondered if the problem was thermal stratification. If so, it could have remedied with a little solar PV powered computer fan to force the stratified hot air at the top of the shelter to mix with the cold air at floor level. (Sometimes an idea is almost at the finish line and just needs a little tweak to work reasonably well.)
Hopefully you've thought of everything in this cool (warm actually) system design...
I'm confused about the focus on renewable energy sources instead of using readily available resources. While I understand the importance of energy efficiency in order to save money and make our energy go further, I don't see the benefit of adding an additional layer of complexity by relying on unreliable sources of energy.
I did a quick calculation on this tank. From the volume I calculated the area of the tank to be approx. The insulation is perhaps 2"-4", 5 tol 10 c, The area approx. 130 m2. The insulation used look like something that have a Lambda = 0,038 W/mK . To get any meaningful heat form the water it need to be above 20C. This means a dT of at least 20. So, the lowest heat loss from the tank to the ground will with 10 cm insulation be 1 kW. Hopefully the peak can be 40C in the tank, with a heatloss of 2 kW, or close to 50 kWh/day. If you take heat out of the tank to heat your house and hot water, the tank will most likely be "empty" after 45 days. Any link available to the online data mentioned to be available?
I am not a native English speaker but will try my best.
You are missing a crucial point in the insulation theory. After some years a heat gradient will be created around the tanke effectively making the dirt work as insulation. You should take the temperature delta between the exterior air and the tank water. Then you will have an additional 10 meters of insulation once steady state has been achieved.
Look at, Borehole Thermal Energy Storage you only insulated the shortest distance to the air. The rest is considered thermal mass and insulation.
@@arvidjohansson3120 , I am aware of borehole energy storarge, and the effekt will kick in for this tank to. How much hard to say. The best way to put the tank in to ground to get benefit of the heat going out intp grouund would be to digg it down vertical, now horizontal to much heat loss upward to the air.
The suspense is killing me. What's in the big tank? And how to you heat it?... Water... Wait what? Why the heck would you use water? Why not sand? Why not thermal bricks? What if it freezes?
Nice system
What is R-70 walls and R-115 ceiling?
I want to do the same, but to charge the "battery" every day, not an entire season. I want to use a tank for 1000 liters
how much maintenance would it need ?
good job! 👍
I'm looking to advise a customer on replacing a fossil-fueled boiler with a heat pump. The Daikin Altherma system looks promising. Daikin has many high-production info resources, but not much boots-on-the-ground how do you install and configure it type information. My main concern is matching the existing cast-iron-radiator system to the heat pump -- or replacing the existing cast-iron radiators with Altherma convector-radiator units. Would I need to get new electric to these, to operate the convecting fan? Is the fresh-air pipe needed for proper operation of the unit for heat-only (or for cooling -- to manage condensation or what?)
So around that water tank is concrete?
A small geothermal heat pump will heat this passive house for $500 per year.
I'm looking in net of the fabric stratifier, and can't find. This is your solution or You bought it at the market?
I was wondering if there's a brand or source for fabric stratified as well
It looks like under tent breathable fabric sock...
I read some articles, and found that sbdy used Nylon 6-6 den200 fabric.
@@averon-off-grid Nice from you to share !! : )
i have seen a lot of these types of systems with my own eyes degrade the plastic liner. i really like the idea of these systems but i think water might noy be the best heat transfer liquid and that platic liners may not be the best tank. i know it would up the cost by a lot but a stainless steel tank would be best and to use a therminol heat transfer fluid