I’m going to put my new MS660 saw together with freezing and heat but I’m going to install the oiler first with two screws only to use as a backstop in case the crank shaft Goes into easily and wants to push out the bearing. Installing the Oiler in place Will act as a bearing pocket so the bearing depth should be perfect, just like it is on the fly wheel side.
@@matthewolson8875 right. I got plastic mallets for aluminum. Not like theyre that big of an issue, just didnt know if they fit on the steel part of the seal with enough surface area
Whats your opinion on the Hyway decomp valve? Is it better than the Huztl or should I just go OEM on my kit saw? With my Kit saw I'm going more the Farmer Jones build method use as much of the kit as possible.
If you supported the inner race of the bearing when you press the crank into the bearing there will be no damage or deviance to the crank case bearing. It's science.
Hey Matt one question I have is, are you not worried about the crank drifting in the bearings when it's warm and running under power with nothing between the bearings and where they seat on the crank? Wouldn't it be better to use some sort of a metal shims of the desired size and thickness to give the desired spacing that would stay in place? Just me thinking LOL.
actually you do bring up a good point but in this case there will be no drift because the bearings inner race is pressed onto the crankshaft it will not move
Craig Timmons gif I didn't use the shim I would be able to pull the crank likely all the way to the boss so much so potentially that you would have a rub
+Matthew Olson Yes Matt you're right I have been told many times that I way overthink everything. like I said in an earlier post I am relatively new to this chainsaw stuff, all of my experiences come from the Automotive, Agricultural and Diesel side of the trade. My experiences has also led me into the small engine world with very limited 2-cycle experience so this is a new Avenue for me. I watch all the videos I can and try to decipher the content to learn all I can about this hobby. You have some great videos and I have picked up many good tips. So thanks and keep the camera's running.
Joe Negrin no...you can just slap it together but I find that it's rare to find an aftermarket cylinder that wouldn't benefit from grinding....some have sharp edges internally that'll catch rings....
I just did my first 660 build a few days ago and as Matt says, you for sure would benefit from removing flash and checking the ports for contour and chamfer. Mine as delivered you could place the piston in the bore move it up to TDC and pulling it down with very mild side pressure the bottom of the skirt, it would absolutely catch on the floor of the port and would have self destructed without chamfer. Also one thing that is critical, is the need to spray brakleen or use another no residue solvent to clean the cylinder bore and ports. With brakleen spray and wipe it out with a clean cloth or paper towel, repeat until the cloth/towel comes out clean then apply a light coat of oil to the bore. I also sprayed the crank, crankcases and all the bearings and found several very small shavings that were dislodged during the cleaning.
@@matthewolson8875 That's what I have in the package. When I opened MS 660 kit, I saw 6 pieces of M5 x 25mm. But isn't it supposed to be 20mm long? Is it gona be problem if I use 25mm ? Thanks
I don't think you moved the bearing... i think you were just tapping the oil seal in... better would be to remove the oil seal press the cases together then put the oil seal back in
at about 3:11 you were measuring the gap between the oil pump and the oil seal... I would think to move the bearing you would remove the oil seal and tap the bearing.... looked to me that you were just pressing the oil seal farther down against the bearing.... Those are fun saws to put together... just finished my fifth farmertec saw. they are addicting to assemble just cant stop at building one
ah, no, indeed the bearing did move. you CAN remove the seal first and tap the bearing in a bit, or not. but either way, the oil seal is flush against the outer race, and I was tapping on the outer race. you can also heat up the case, remove the bearing, put the oil pump in, and replace the bearing so it sits against the oil pump....ie...use the pump as a stop. remember, these bearings are a bit odd, and the outer race is thicker than the inner race...so the seal sits flush inside the outer bearing race. ....odd, but it works....and yes, they are addicting to assemble. doing the 360 now :)
funny.... i finished a 440 and a 360 yesterday and a 660 this morning... now im all out of saws to put together That 360 is a pretty decent looking saw
im actually thinking of getting the ms 180 kit and trying that first. Sadly im not finding any instructional videos on that particular saw. I have pretty good mechanical ability but seems these things don't come with any sort of instructions. do you think its possible for me to complete the 180 kit?
I’m going to put my new MS660 saw together with freezing and heat but I’m going to install the oiler first with two screws only to use as a backstop in case the crank shaft Goes into easily and wants to push out the bearing. Installing the Oiler in place Will act as a bearing pocket so the bearing depth should be perfect, just like it is on the fly wheel side.
Such a good series Mathew, rewatching this now👍🏻
We did two of them. Even had a spoonful of peanut butter handy just in case.
Nice :)
Ha, I saw that too!
Whats the peanut butter for?
Can you tell me where to get crank instalation tool and any other tools needed. This is my 1st saw.
From me...shoot me a msg.... mattyo5@@@@@aol.com
Where did you find those useful tools?
I make them and sell them. You can find more info on my website Www.mattschainsawparts.com
Cant you use the sleeves to seat the seals?
You can but the sleeves are aluminum...so if you use a hammer you can damage them.
@@matthewolson8875 copy. Thanks for the reply
@@plowmaster1206 no problem! Yeah I dont like telling people to use them as seal drivers...thats not their intention. But they can work.
@@matthewolson8875 right. I got plastic mallets for aluminum. Not like theyre that big of an issue, just didnt know if they fit on the steel part of the seal with enough surface area
Are those Farmer tec cylinders Nikasil ???
Hello how can I get one of those crank pullers?
Email me mattyo5@@@@aol.com
Whats your opinion on the Hyway decomp valve? Is it better than the Huztl or should I just go OEM on my kit saw? With my Kit saw I'm going more the Farmer Jones build method use as much of the kit as possible.
Kenneth Judd the hyway valve functions fine....but I've had the plastic piece fall off. so I prefer oem valves
Matthew Olson Thank you. I will go oem.
Kenneth Judd husky decomp is better I think
Lucky for me the local Dealer is a Stihl and Husky Dealer. I will look into both.
Where did you get your crankshaft /bearing puller /pusher
I make them and sell them
If you supported the inner race of the bearing when you press the crank into the bearing there will be no damage or deviance to the crank case bearing. It's science.
I agree....which is why I designed my case tools to do just that :) stihl and husky oem tools do not
Hey Matt one question I have is, are you not worried about the crank drifting in the bearings when it's warm and running under power with nothing between the bearings and where they seat on the crank?
Wouldn't it be better to use some sort of a metal shims of the desired size and thickness to give the desired spacing that would stay in place? Just me thinking LOL.
Craig Timmons Craig you just need to stop thinking and your problem is solved
actually you do bring up a good point but in this case there will be no drift because the bearings inner race is pressed onto the crankshaft it will not move
Craig Timmons gif I didn't use the shim I would be able to pull the crank likely all the way to the boss so much so potentially that you would have a rub
+Matthew Olson Yes Matt you're right I have been told many times that I way overthink everything. like I said in an earlier post I am relatively new to this chainsaw stuff, all of my experiences come from the Automotive, Agricultural and Diesel side of the trade. My experiences has also led me into the small engine world with very limited 2-cycle experience so this is a new Avenue for me. I watch all the videos I can and try to decipher the content to learn all I can about this hobby. You have some great videos and I have picked up many good tips. So thanks and keep the camera's running.
Craig Timmons I will and thanks for the comments
Hey Matt, I have a 660 in the mail. First kit saw. I'm not planning on modifying squish or transfers do I still need to measure timing?
Joe Negrin no...you can just slap it together but I find that it's rare to find an aftermarket cylinder that wouldn't benefit from grinding....some have sharp edges internally that'll catch rings....
Matthew Olson excellent that's what I was hoping. Thanks Matt!
Joe Negrin you should at least check squish though :)
I just did my first 660 build a few days ago and as Matt says, you for sure would benefit from removing flash and checking the ports for contour and chamfer. Mine as delivered you could place the piston in the bore move it up to TDC and pulling it down with very mild side pressure the bottom of the skirt, it would absolutely catch on the floor of the port and would have self destructed without chamfer. Also one thing that is critical, is the need to spray brakleen or use another no residue solvent to clean the cylinder bore and ports. With brakleen spray and wipe it out with a clean cloth or paper towel, repeat until the cloth/towel comes out clean then apply a light coat of oil to the bore. I also sprayed the crank, crankcases and all the bearings and found several very small shavings that were dislodged during the cleaning.
1bottlefed good advice for sure
Did you make the case tools or can you buy them from somewhere?
Jason Guraedy you can get the tools through me I am having them made in small batches please email me
haven't gotten an email yet... here is my email: mattyo5 AT aol DOT com ( use letter "o" in mattyo )
Can you tell me crankcase bolt size for MS 660?
M5 by 25mm long I think ..but I don't know for sure off hand
@@matthewolson8875
That's what I have in the package.
When I opened MS 660 kit, I saw
6 pieces of M5 x 25mm.
But isn't it supposed to be 20mm long?
Is it gona be problem if I use 25mm ?
Thanks
@@lightshine6044 drive the bolts into the flywheel side of the crankcase....see how much room you have or if they will bottom out
Any possible way to get a set of these tools ?
email me...
mattyo5 at aol DOTCOM
if I don't respond fairly quickly it went to the wrong email lol
Matthew Olson price for crank tool?
Spin your tool around and use it as a seal press instead of smashing it in with a hammer
Good idea but the keyway ...I don't think it extends far enough to do that.
Hi Matthew, sent you an email but do you have any more of those tools for sale? Thx!
Hi leo...try again. .. mattyo5@@@@@@@aol.com
@@matthewolson8875 will the crankshaft install tool you have there fit an MS460? If so I'll take one.
@@jasonparrish3236 yes ....email me.... mattyo5@@@@@@@aol.com
I don't think you moved the bearing... i think you were just tapping the oil seal in... better would be to remove the oil seal press the cases together then put the oil seal back in
you don't think I moved the bearing... with the punch? sorry, not following.... what did I do wrong? at what point in the vid?
at about 3:11 you were measuring the gap between the oil pump and the oil seal... I would think to move the bearing you would remove the oil seal and tap the bearing.... looked to me that you were just pressing the oil seal farther down against the bearing.... Those are fun saws to put together... just finished my fifth farmertec saw. they are addicting to assemble just cant stop at building one
ah, no, indeed the bearing did move. you CAN remove the seal first and tap the bearing in a bit, or not. but either way, the oil seal is flush against the outer race, and I was tapping on the outer race. you can also heat up the case, remove the bearing, put the oil pump in, and replace the bearing so it sits against the oil pump....ie...use the pump as a stop.
remember, these bearings are a bit odd, and the outer race is thicker than the inner race...so the seal sits flush inside the outer bearing race. ....odd, but it works....and yes, they are addicting to assemble. doing the 360 now :)
funny.... i finished a 440 and a 360 yesterday and a 660 this morning... now im all out of saws to put together That 360 is a pretty decent looking saw
i have the 360 on the bench right now, doing a bolt for bolt vid... then the 440. who knows where after that :)
I kept waiting for you to eat that spoon of peanut butter
Hehe....
Do you have a Facebook messenger or a page I hate emails and its not working
Yup ....just look up my name on fb
Not coming up
@@dillonroe7471 facebook.com/matthew.olson.948
so is this what I buy to build a complete saw? FARMERTEC Complete Repair Parts Engine Motor Crankcase For Stihl MS660 066 New Blue
Item NO: CS66020C
www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/cs66020a.htm?Click=48376
i just posted the link if you want to get it from HL SUPPLY... if you want you can buy from huztl.net but it takes more time from china.
im actually thinking of getting the ms 180 kit and trying that first. Sadly im not finding any instructional videos on that particular saw. I have pretty good mechanical ability but seems these things don't come with any sort of instructions. do you think its possible for me to complete the 180 kit?
@@charger7022 I haven't done that kit yet so I can't comment...sorry. ...the 660 is definitely best bang for buck though
Great video. I sent you an email about a crank tool.
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