Alternative to SonoPan for Americans: This product is currently only available in Canada, but an excellent alternative (which I have a video about - link in description) is mass loaded vinyl which you can get here: amzn.to/34rxHFC.
Though this may help, sonopan doesn't even list the wall assembly you made, closest is STC 56,"Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8") Metal studs 50.9 mm x 101.6 mm (2" x 4") at 610 mm (24") c.c. R-12 Batt Insulation SONOpan 19 mm (3/4") Resilient Channels at 610 mm (24") c.c. Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8") Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8")“ This requires three layers of drywall AND resiliant channel. Not just one layer of drywall and offset studs. But again it's not apples to apples. I wish they tested your exact construction.
So there's no distributors willing to ship to the states, it has to be a local distributor? Or is it just for now under the current supply chain issues?
Great video! I will consider this for my wall assembly if I can get it in my area. I plan on insulating my exterior walls from the outside by removing the siding and adding sheathing (very old home). This product seems like a great addition to multi family units. Hopefully this becomes standard practice so everyone can live comfortably without fear of making too much noise.
I just gotta say this man has taught me so much about how to fix my place he’s practically my father at this point. Goes over each step, even the ones that might seem like “common sense”, and cuts all the filler so it’s just only juicy father-like wisdom. Thank you very much!
@@Josh.1234 why does it use more lumber ? I thought I could open up a wall, weave the fiberglass, put greenboard and drywall up, but no additional wood.
This is eye opening. My wife and I are doing sound proofing between rooms and have already bought all materials. This would have been a great if we had it as an option in the US. But thank you. This will go to our list of possible tools if we ever need to do it again.
What approach are you taking instead? We're embarking on a remodel later this year and we need to isolate our master bedroom from noisy neighbors and loud work-from-home activities. Note: I'm also in the US.
I am a radio broadcaster and do my show from home. I am building a home studio in an 8'x12' room in the back corner of my ranch-style brick house. My grandfather built this house for my parents in 1956, and NO insulation was used on the exterior walls. Just plywood, block, and brick on the exterior. So I have taken all of the interior drywall off the 4 walls and spray foamed between the interior wall studs and also underneath the floor. Overhead, I installed the blown-in insulation a few years ago, approximately 8" thick. I was about to go with the 2 layers of drywall with Green Glue between each sheet as I had seen you do before, but I LOVE this method!! Plus, you answered my question at 19:01 when you said, "Even if you only have access to one side of the wall (which I do). Now, I've gotta try and find SONOPAN in Alabama! Thank you so much!!
The authority on soundproofing has spoken. Jeff your work on the subject is the reason I was able to finish my renovation and build one of the most comfortable homes I've ever lived in. Thank you
This guy is THEE BEST! Informative, knowledgeable and a heart of a teacher.. dad noises as he does something strenuous included for free. Love this guy!
Dude! This is game changer for me! I going to take this and insulate my basement/ ceiling and create an ISO box for my amplifiers and I see the alternative for us Americans. Thank you!!
I love your passion and I can see how invested you are in what you're doing. I also love this video as it gives me ideas for soundproofing our offices for out future build. Thanks for the quality content as always!
I used the Sonopan panels when building my Shed Studio. I believe it works well but OMG what a mess when cutting it! I had green dust everywhere. I suggest wearing a mask when handling it.
I’ve been trying to figure out how to reduce noise, first thought about the walls then and noticed it transmits through the ducting system. Great vid/wall solution!!! The ducting in my place is driven by a single furnace. Great vidz on basement Reno/refurb abs dropping the heat duct to the floor to improve comfort down there! The last bit of logic to solve in my mind for my Reno is if there’s a way to reduce sound transmission between basement and upstairs mainly, whilst having a single ducting heat/cool system inc heat drops… for the whole house 🤔
Thank you so much for all the videos on sound management. All this info is so helpful as I need to make, as soundproof as possible, room for my sensory sensitive fiancé. Thank you again, I love your whole channel.
Long time viewer, been watching since 2018 or so. My home project was unique, the background is simple: I remodeled a 1920s home and I wanted it to have a nice, cozy and insulated sound dampening so that if I'm watching a movie in the living room, I can walk downstairs and not hear it 'that much'. The purpose was simply for the notion of eventually living here with someone else, not specifically (and only) by myself. I went a little more than overboard however. Background at the end. So for my total cost for drywall, insulation and green glue, I was looking at about $10/sheet or about $900 or so for all the drywall needed for my entire house. This accounts for the areas which I doubled in drywall, with green glue. Green Glue I spent around $200 or so on, as I doubled the drywall in the main bedroom, the wall that sides both the two bedrooms, the region where the toilet is at (Everyone likes quiet lol). And in the living room / dining room shared wall. In addition, I spent about $500 or so in Insulation through the entire house, insulating every wall. I also spent another $60 or so on rigid form insulation for the upper top hats, to keep density up in this area, and another $200 for the ceiling insulation across each lower part of the house. Then another $50 or so on foam insulation spray for the outlets, romex and low voltage holes, etc. I think given the technology at hand, if it performs just as well as double drywall with green glue, and at the weight of this being 27lb compared to the 48lb of the 5/8ths drywall, I'd 100% sacrifice that extra couple inches of floor space and save and overall back from that entire overhaul probably just to break even in cash. I'm sure the scructure would thank you, too, since 2 layers of drywall gets heavy. Fortunately in my scenario, the house was already double drywalled when I got here (Well it was drywall overtop of lathe board lol...). Anyway, here's the background: My house is smaller, 1100sqft total, 2 floors at about 550sqft. It's a symmetrical rectangular house, where each side at the first floor is split into 10-11ft, and they're "long" sides. So the kitchen/dining room side is a long expansive ~20x10, and same with the living room side. Next is the staircase, which leads up to the upstairs small hallway. The hallway starts with a smaller bathroom, about 50sqft in total floor space when provided with a 2ft by 3ft shower (at the entrance) and a bathtub at the end of the wall (shower is separate from the bathtub). On the wall ajdacent the bathtub is the bathroom vanity, a small 24" with a toilet at the far end of that wall (With a window there, as this 1920s house had a window where the toilet was. I kept this construction all the same). Of course, I'm a little crazy and replaced all of the 1920s cheap windows with moderately lower cost Pella duel pane windows. Continuing through the hallway is the first bedroom. Originally this was the 'larger room', at a womping...10x10ft. The next room is on the 'right' side of that, sharing the same wall and was originally 10x7, and is now 10x14. My original design goal changed over the years. It eventually transformed from 2017 to 2019 into "I want a smart home" and "I want it to be comfortable for a family living". Originally, the plan was to rent. But as times got tough for me, I moved in and have been happy living here since. So for each room, I ran 14 gauge speaker cable through the walls. In most of the rooms, it's just to a singular in-ceiling speaker that has an in-wall Pyle Bluetooth controller to it (Which I soldered up to be hardwired instead of the power supply). The reason was to add Google Homes or Amazon Alexa's to the walls, eventually I'll add those in place, but for now it's used for my cell phone and background music. Additionally, in the living room I ran a normal 7.2 surround setup for that speaker cable, with an additional 4 overhead in-ceiling locations. The purpose was a 'true' 7.2.4 Atmos experience. In the bedrooms, I ran a traditional 5.2 setup, with 2 ceiling atmos speaker configurations. Let me tell you, I don't regret this for a moment. Instead of 'just sound proofing these two rooms, I decided to just go the distance with most of the house. Currently in 2022 I'm nearly finished with the project. The only thing I have left as far as 'construction' is concerned is baseboards and decoration, such as building furniture. I went with butcher block countertops, homedepot east haven cabinets i modified to allow recessed LED smart lighting, and ive already built a few additional cabinets utilzing a lower end table saw and a few tricks ive learned across youtube to do this. I work in IT, not even remotely close to 'construction' and it's my 'weekend hobby', when I'm not working on my car, playing drums or finding something else to get into, at least. But with my project nearly complete for 'construction', now it's just wood working, potentially some unique welding ideas for furniture, or some cool smart home ideas...I really need to get back to utilizing home assistant like i did in my apartment, as that's one thing I'd love to pair up with the number of smart devices i have around the house. I just need to 'get there'. Also, it looks like we actually have this at my local home depot. When I add some walls up in my basement, I may consider this 100% since it'll certainly, almost 100% guaranteed, save me a TON OF MONEY compared two two thick green boards drywall lol.
Ahh man, I wish this was uploaded a few months ago before I already started building my sound booth. Alternating studs to reduce sound transmission is such a great idea
This is fantastic and timely with my basement finishing plans for this year! I've seen these in Home Depot before, but this gives a good breakdown/comparison over other soundproofing options, thanks for the info.
Thanks for the tips, in this one & other videos. As a musician I avoid seeking other musicians' advice when it comes to acoustic treatment (they seldom know what they are talking about, unless they are old school sound engineers) and I really appreciate your resourcefulness.
My brother recently finished renovating his basement and built an office / music room with a layer of Sonopan and the sound floor in that room is so low you can feel it.
I have done 2 soundproof walls and 1 soundproofed ceiling with safe n' sound and pink insulation in between the floor joists, then resilient channel, sonopan, and finished up with 5/8 drywall. Same deal but with no resilient channel for the wall in betwen a den and master bedroom downstairs with a 1ft gap in between two walls built the same. Works great so far, even though my project is still in process you can already tell how good it works.
Great video, I’m looking at adding sound reduction in my basement theater. 13 x 15 x 8.5. Priced it out to about 1000$ for the Sonopan and drywall. Very affordable. Looking at Home Depot Canada. Extremely helpful. Thanks!
Such a shame you can’t get this in the States…. What a GOD send. I’m trying to build a drum room to be silent at any time of day (or night), and this would bring it within reach. As it stands now, I’d have to do the MLV, and green glue, and ultra thick drywall…..it’s just too much at the moment. Glad to know that these products keep evolving. GREAT video!
OMG don't know how I missed this on January. I found this in a book I've had since 2009. I've included this exact construction (adding sonopan from the assembly in my book.) on a detail in my permit drawings for my basement reno I'm starting. But saved me from a big mistake: I was going to use Rockwool.. Didn't realize I couldn't weave it serpentine) Thanks for pointing that out!
These are the most interesting videos. The STC videos. We live in a condo with concrete separation between units. Very quiet already, generally a db of 31. Though, quieter is better.
Nice video. I did some similar work helping a rehearsal space owner in LA. ~Same as you show, however he also had me use a fairly thick neoprene gasket material between the bottom and top plates. We tested it against the pre-existing room builds with standard construction and the difference was night and day.
@@homecompter5646 Yes. 2x6 plates with the staggered stud framing as you demonstrated, but also the gaskets between subfloor. We also used a lot of construction adhesive on the studs when hanging the drywall, which allowed for less drywall screws. This gave a bit more of a dampening effect when the sound waves hit the drywall. Slightly less vibration is transferred to the framing as opposed to drywall hung directly to bare studs with screws only.
have to keep this in mind ofr finishing my basement. I want it to be sound proofed as much as possible. this seems way easier than glues and tons of dry wall.
This is great, I have been looking for options for my Family room, this will work great. Now have to figure out how to stop sound from traveling through hallway into the room. One step at a time. Thanks
Came across your Facebook videos, and just recently started following. I appreciate how easy you make things to understand for us homeowners. Enjoy the tips & tricks too. Gives us non construction workers more confidence in doing this type of work when it's so much easier to understand and follow.
Cool stuff. The phone in your box in the beginning only produces high and mid frequencies. How does it block low frequencies? Seems like you need mass for bass blocking, and that stuff doesn't look very heavy?
Great video. Wish I had access to this project during my DIY Home Theater project last year. I did get good results, but that was a TON of 5/8 drywall to carry up to the third floor. I lost friends over that task. Lol.
Your cracking me up dude! I have hauled tons of 5/8 drywall up to my apartment ~50 sheets. If you still have any friends left, they are really good people!
STC ratings are only measured between 125 and 4000, while low end sound which is the absolute hardest to isolate/block (i.e. bass guitar, drums etc) lives at 100 or below. With that in mind, try placing a subwoofer in your “magic box” and turning it up the next time that you run a test rather than your cellphone.
Thank you for this. I live in a townhouse and next door neighbor has installed a surround sound during Christmas. They've been driving me crazy and I've been trying to think of what I can do. I will look into this.
Thanks for showing this. I'm looking into finishing a room in my basement with some soundproofing. It's below the dining room and the kids are constantly running through there and shouting. Right now, you can hear EVERYTHING below. I want a little room for my wife to retreat to and get some peace, even if just for 15 minutes every once in a while.
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I've been using Sonopan in Montreal for about 20 years. It's a great product. However, I did use double-layer 5/8" drywall with z-channel (with green glue) on some projects. Yes, I know it's overkill, but I did notice a difference. But Jeff is right, it's not worth the price difference for standard construction. Though code-wise, you need 2 layers of 5/8" between a neighbor's wall anyway. But if you're doing a recording studio (which I did), I went up to 3-layers sandwiched with green glue, and mass-loaded vinyl (I had a noisy neighbor, and street noise was quite problematic). It's also important that the drywall doesn't come in contact with the floor, ceiling, and adjacent walls. Give it a 1/8" to 1/4" gap, filled with acoustic caulking. Soundproofing putty is also important for electrical boxes. Important, get electrical box extenders for each box. Oh, and don't forget the door: depending on your needs, get at a minimum a solid-core door. If you have windows in that room and want to reduce noise to and from the outside, have your windows customized with double or triple-pane laminated glass. There's also another product out there that replaces regular drywall, it's called QuietRock. This is made in the USA (available in Canada too). It's expensive drywall, but if you can't get your hands on Sonopan, then this will replace it, provided you get the right thickness for the STC rating you want. Each sheet is basically prelaminated drywall with a green-glue-like compound embedded, but in 1/2", 5/8", and even 1" 3/8 thickness. The STC rating on those is crazy high compared to regular drywall. For the over-killers in you, if building an ultra-quiet room, such as a recording studio, you can also build a room within a room. I used this principle when I build 2 studios in the past. Now that is only useful if you're doing critical sound recordings. Having said all that, this sort of construction is to avoid sound contamination to and from the room. But if you're creating a studio, don't forget to do sound treatment by adding acoustic paneling to the walls. Otherwise, your room will sound echoey with all sorts of standing waves and reflections. In which case, you don't want your room to be perfectly square. But that is a whole other subject.
That’s some GREAT info. I’m trying to build a small drum-room in the corner of my garage, and this product would be perfect. But, I’m in the states. I’ll check out that Quietrock, you mentioned. Maybe that would simplify what I’m trying to do.
@JimBobBek I've heard of building a room within a room, and am also building a drum room/studio as the other commenter mentioned. What I'm wondering is when you say raise the flooring also, how do you minimise the transference of vibrations through the points of contact to the original floor? And also, what method would be used? A layer of battening? Many thanks for all the info!
Biggest thing overlooked is the holes drilled in the drywall for recessed lights. Sonopan is nice because you can just drill or cut slits to feed wire through and then caulk the hole.
Hey jeff i got an old camper when the weather gets better i want to tear it down and rebuild it with home construction 2×4s and everything your vids really do help alot in the planning and knowing how it should be done thanks alot
This vid is produced well. The editing and dialogue work together to make this info and instructions clear. I have a question: How can you 'soundproof' between two rooms (upstairs/downstairs) in a house built in 2010?
Not trying to question the authenticity, but I'm confused why Jeff's older videos on soundproofing (which use the alternate methods) come across in the same way of "this is the best way to soundproof" when he said here that he's been using SONOpan for years. I'm planning on building a home studio in the next few years, so I just want to make sure I'm taking the optimal approach. Would be nice to have an STC rating or comparison to the other methods. It all still seems a bit speculative. The phone in the box was nice, but a phone's max volume honestly isn't very loud and is mostly pushing higher frequencies (no bass), so it isn't the best indicator of effectiveness.
In all reality, adding resilient channel over the Sonoran is likely a good idea. My plan is Pink insulation Sonoran Resilient channel or clips Acoustic caulk Double drywall Green Glue TBD My 17x14’ L shaped room is small enough that this is a reasonable option for me.
@@baxt1412 I enjoy home Theater & loud music. My boys play guitar, bass & drums. This small space will be multi functional so proper home Theater seating will not be priority. Keeping everyone happy will be. :)
Just need to find an equivalent product in the UK and all will be golden…. About to build a garden music studio and looking for ways to avoid upsetting the neighbours! Great video…. Even if I can’t get it over here! 🤦♂️🤪👍
As a hobby, I make sound-deadening “wall art” panels, using basic 1”x2” frames, a bit of canvas, and a tapestry or other decorative fabric. I fill the inside with 1” fiberglass insulation, and typically do 3-panel sets. I wish I could get a hold of this kind of material. The panels I make are great for large interior walls in common areas or offices/bedrooms. Measurable sound decrease, but I wonder what it would be like with Sonopan under the surface.
@@jsl6155 I used towels as well, but the problem I found is that for the shape of what I was making, they would slump down. Also, I had spare insulation from previous projects.
I was sound proofing my sons apartment party wall a few years ago as the neighbor loved his music and it already was staggered stud and insulated, I added green glue and 1/2 drywall then more green glue then Quiet rock drywall. It did the trick but was pricey. I wish they had Sonopan out in stores when I did this work.
Major mistake was not securing the R-19 fiberglass batting to the top plate and studs with staples .. Stacking the fiberglass batting and using the friction contact with the studs to hold it in place will NOT be maintained over time. Eventually the fiberglass will slowly sag and compress under it’s own weight, resulting in a 2 foot hollow void at the top of the wall. Some battings have plastic latticing that can be stapled to hold the batting in place.
Hey Jeff, big fan. I have noticed on almost all soundproofing videos (not just yours) there’s no mention of doubling the top plate of a framed wall to compensate for the amount of space two pieces of 5/8 drywall or Sonopan with drywall with res channel would take. Doubling the top plate will provide the needed backing for drywall on your walls. While this is probably obvious for an experienced contractor, DIY’ers like myself might run into the problem of having to back the framed wall after the fact. ( my situation now) lol.
I’m not following why the top plate needs to be doubled. As far as I know the drywall and sonopan don’t need to be Screwed into the top plate. I think the studs are enough
@@Werdna12345 your drywall (on your walls, not ceiling) needs to be backed by the top plate of the framed wall. I should have clarified that in my reply thanks.
@@Sticksandstones292 I’m not following why it needs to be backed at all. The weakest part of the drywall is going to be in the middle and it’s only backed by studs 🤷♂️
Hey Jeff, started my basement Reno about a week ago and after much research found the Sonopan panels. Decided to use a layer of these panels, resilient channel and one layer of 5/8” drywall instead of 2 layers of 5/8” on the ceiling. Also following the installation recommendations and using acoustic caulking around the perimeter. I had decided to use bat insulation around the duct runs and spray foaming around the ductwork where it is installed through the floor (floor registers). Thank you for posting the ‘box’ test as it has reassured me I’ve made the right decision.
@@dafunkdafunk still working through entire basement but I did notice if someone has heavy feet the 'thud' sound still transfers . Will have a better idea once entire basement is done.
the sound deadening is very good but not 100%. As much as I tried to insulate around the ductwork some sound still travels. I mounted pot lights in the drywall, no speakers, and simply put some bat insulation about the installation points. I didn't go to the extent of boxing around and insulating at each of these points. Good Luck!@@gunnu85
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY One question I do have... If you were doing a drop ceiling in the basement (like I plan on doing). Can you cut this product to fit between the floor joists and attach it to the upper level subfloor then supplement it with fibreglass batts and get a worthwhile result? Thanks, Jeff!
I was recently mesmerized with a soundproofing video Jeff made 4 years ago. This time I found a more recent video that covers soundproofing with new techno that is more affordable. I have some questions about soundproofing a up/down duplex that has recently been completely renovated with new walls, ceilings and floor covering. Does Jeff reply to questions here?
Awesome video. It would be super amazing if you could do the same test minus the sonopanels, ie same box, same sound source minus the sono panels. Another cool test would be same box, same sound source, replace sonopanels with 5/8 sheet rock. Just be nice to know which part does the most work lol. Learned a lot watching this video :)
IS this something that can be done to existing walls, or would this be something you can only do for new walls? I am looking to soundproof my office and am a bit intimidated on opening up the walls to do this. Open to any suggestions and would love advice.
Question : Regarding a common wall in a semi-detached house. The priority is using the least amount of space possible, so applying a layer directly over the existing wall. Which one provides more effective sound reduction. Sonopan with a layer of drywall or Quietrock with Green Glue ? Also what's your opinion on Green Glue vs Lowes Indoor/Outdoor Adhesive ? Thanks km
Curious of the same. Live in an older building with natural sounds through the floor/ceilings. Would adding a layer of the sonopan and drywall directly to the existing ceiling give any reductions.
We did our bedroom ceiling with sonopan when we renovated our duplex about 13 years ago, my contractor used resilient channel between the sonopan and the drywall. Works really well for us. Cheers from Montreal.
I've been wondering about that construction. I'm sure it worked excellent but I wonder if this negates the effectiveness of the resilient channel a little bit since when fastened on the bottom of floor joists it allows sound to resonate down the metal channel and cancel out. With that much material i'm sure regardless that you probably achieved good result.
@@jasonfitzgerald6334 it worked out just ok for me,we don't hear walking or such from upstairs, but there is a drain stack that runs down our wall. Pretty sure the little bit of noise we hear is being transmitted by the stack.
You could do external conduit (i.e. emt tubing or wiremould type channels to surface mount boxes) to run electrical for your plugs. Then you would only have one entrance point for your electrical.
This is amazing! We're buying SonoPan based on this. Quick question, the ceiling already currently has some 3 and 1/2 inch fiber glass insulation, pink panels. Could we use these and add more or should they be discarded? What's the pink fiber glass panels that you show on this video?? Thank you so much!!
The frequencies from your phone are pretty easy to stop. If you used a jbl portable blutooth speaker at a moderate volyme that would simulate real soundproofing.
Yeah, but I live in Minnesota, and the convoy in Ottawa will probably prevent this sound proofing product from ground transportation across the border to our Home Depots. But it's worth telling my local HD and seeing if it would be possible sometime. Super useful product for a musician like me! And for distance learning, work from home office, etc.
awesome thank you for doing this I'm about to get started on my studio soon im going to do this on the walls between the sound booth and live room and in between the vocal both and the live room thank you again
Honestly, I did green glue + r19 on 1/2" double layer drywall, and it's damn good. Much better than single 5/8" with insulation. I'm not sure much more could be blocked, as it's only the low frequencies that pass through. But that's all from the framing and concrete walls of the basement
@@yeeaahBUDDY Would that have to be between the studs and top plates? Cause that's where the vibrations are getting through in my case. Top plate of one wall, basically under the bottom plate of another, with a floor joist and floor of course. That would be a tough retrofit.
Hey Jeff, You're correct (I looked), I cannot get Sonopan in North Texas. I am designing and will soon be building a new studio and, after watching your video on mass loaded vinyl, will be incorporating that into my build. The walls (2X6 base & cap with staggered 2x4 studs 16" OC) and ceilings (12" engineered wooden I-Beam joists) of the studio will have 1/2" outer layer of OSB (studio being built inside shop area), Rockwool, 1/2" layer of OSB, 1-lb MLV, and then a 1/2" layer of "QuietRock" will be final interior wall / ceiling inside the studio. Being a metal drummer, I play loud and would like the ability to play whenever I want, without upsetting the neighbors. Yes, this is an expensive solution but, if I want to play at 2:00 AM, I don't want the police called on me for disturbing the peace. Thanks, Tom
Alternative to SonoPan for Americans:
This product is currently only available in Canada, but an excellent alternative (which I have a video about - link in description) is mass loaded vinyl which you can get here: amzn.to/34rxHFC.
Though this may help, sonopan doesn't even list the wall assembly you made, closest is STC 56,"Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8")
Metal studs 50.9 mm x 101.6 mm
(2" x 4") at 610 mm (24") c.c.
R-12 Batt Insulation
SONOpan 19 mm (3/4")
Resilient Channels at 610 mm (24") c.c.
Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8")
Type X Drywall 15.9 mm (5/8")“
This requires three layers of drywall AND resiliant channel. Not just one layer of drywall and offset studs. But again it's not apples to apples. I wish they tested your exact construction.
Mass Loaded vynl and two layer of 5/8 drywall is hard to put up especially on the ceiling. Excellent isn't quite the word 🤔.
@@MergedElement how about in the attic?
So there's no distributors willing to ship to the states, it has to be a local distributor? Or is it just for now under the current supply chain issues?
Great video! I will consider this for my wall assembly if I can get it in my area. I plan on insulating my exterior walls from the outside by removing the siding and adding sheathing (very old home).
This product seems like a great addition to multi family units. Hopefully this becomes standard practice so everyone can live comfortably without fear of making too much noise.
I just gotta say this man has taught me so much about how to fix my place he’s practically my father at this point. Goes over each step, even the ones that might seem like “common sense”, and cuts all the filler so it’s just only juicy father-like wisdom. Thank you very much!
Agreed!
Juicy papa
If I was him I’d say, make sure you clean behind your ears and bed by 8, ok?
Seriously, this practice of wall sound proofing is nothing new and is shown in old Architecture Standards text books from my college days in the 60’s.
OMG! DAD showed me this 45 years ago! He used it to illustrate how to break thermal bridging. I assumed no one used it. So glad to see it!
Its impossible he showed you this 45 years ago since this video was released one day ago...TH-cam didnt even exist back then
@@Dimitru146 The method, not the video. LOL LOL LOL
Yeah it breaks thermal bridging and acoustical resonance but it uses a good bit more lumber.
@@Dimitru146 lol. Great comment.
@@Josh.1234 why does it use more lumber ? I thought I could open up a wall, weave the fiberglass, put greenboard and drywall up, but no additional wood.
"Layers of confusion" - This is the best illustration for diffusing sound waves I have ever heard!
The more soundproofing videos, the more I'll watch. The Biggest thing making us considering remodeling or move atm
This is eye opening. My wife and I are doing sound proofing between rooms and have already bought all materials. This would have been a great if we had it as an option in the US. But thank you. This will go to our list of possible tools if we ever need to do it again.
What approach are you taking instead? We're embarking on a remodel later this year and we need to isolate our master bedroom from noisy neighbors and loud work-from-home activities. Note: I'm also in the US.
I am a radio broadcaster and do my show from home. I am building a home studio in an 8'x12' room in the back corner of my ranch-style brick house. My grandfather built this house for my parents in 1956, and NO insulation was used on the exterior walls. Just plywood, block, and brick on the exterior. So I have taken all of the interior drywall off the 4 walls and spray foamed between the interior wall studs and also underneath the floor. Overhead, I installed the blown-in insulation a few years ago, approximately 8" thick. I was about to go with the 2 layers of drywall with Green Glue between each sheet as I had seen you do before, but I LOVE this method!! Plus, you answered my question at 19:01 when you said, "Even if you only have access to one side of the wall (which I do). Now, I've gotta try and find SONOPAN in Alabama! Thank you so much!!
The authority on soundproofing has spoken. Jeff your work on the subject is the reason I was able to finish my renovation and build one of the most comfortable homes I've ever lived in. Thank you
Cheers!
This guy is THEE BEST!
Informative, knowledgeable and a heart of a teacher.. dad noises as he does something strenuous included for free.
Love this guy!
Solddd. Thank god I waited before I sound proofed my entire house!
Cheers!
subscribed...I'm architect designer and musician since 24 years and I like how clever this guy is....
This. Dude. Is. An. Artist!
This is a good idea . Soundproofing is EXPENSIVE ! I ve done it and it’s critical work to be done right .
Dude! This is game changer for me! I going to take this and insulate my basement/ ceiling and create an ISO box for my amplifiers and I see the alternative for us Americans. Thank you!!
I love your passion and I can see how invested you are in what you're doing. I also love this video as it gives me ideas for soundproofing our offices for out future build. Thanks for the quality content as always!
I used the Sonopan panels when building my Shed Studio. I believe it works well but OMG what a mess when cutting it! I had green dust everywhere. I suggest wearing a mask when handling it.
@@1newme425 bruh
@@1newme425 😂
I was literally just going through your soundproofing videos throughout the years.
I’ve been trying to figure out how to reduce noise, first thought about the walls then and noticed it transmits through the ducting system. Great vid/wall solution!!! The ducting in my place is driven by a single furnace. Great vidz on basement Reno/refurb abs dropping the heat duct to the floor to improve comfort down there! The last bit of logic to solve in my mind for my Reno is if there’s a way to reduce sound transmission between basement and upstairs mainly, whilst having a single ducting heat/cool system inc heat drops… for the whole house 🤔
I have this question, too.
Thank you so much for all the videos on sound management. All this info is so helpful as I need to make, as soundproof as possible, room for my sensory sensitive fiancé. Thank you again, I love your whole channel.
Long time viewer, been watching since 2018 or so.
My home project was unique, the background is simple: I remodeled a 1920s home and I wanted it to have a nice, cozy and insulated sound dampening so that if I'm watching a movie in the living room, I can walk downstairs and not hear it 'that much'. The purpose was simply for the notion of eventually living here with someone else, not specifically (and only) by myself.
I went a little more than overboard however.
Background at the end.
So for my total cost for drywall, insulation and green glue, I was looking at about $10/sheet or about $900 or so for all the drywall needed for my entire house. This accounts for the areas which I doubled in drywall, with green glue.
Green Glue I spent around $200 or so on, as I doubled the drywall in the main bedroom, the wall that sides both the two bedrooms, the region where the toilet is at (Everyone likes quiet lol). And in the living room / dining room shared wall.
In addition, I spent about $500 or so in Insulation through the entire house, insulating every wall. I also spent another $60 or so on rigid form insulation for the upper top hats, to keep density up in this area, and another $200 for the ceiling insulation across each lower part of the house.
Then another $50 or so on foam insulation spray for the outlets, romex and low voltage holes, etc.
I think given the technology at hand, if it performs just as well as double drywall with green glue, and at the weight of this being 27lb compared to the 48lb of the 5/8ths drywall, I'd 100% sacrifice that extra couple inches of floor space and save and overall back from that entire overhaul probably just to break even in cash. I'm sure the scructure would thank you, too, since 2 layers of drywall gets heavy. Fortunately in my scenario, the house was already double drywalled when I got here (Well it was drywall overtop of lathe board lol...).
Anyway, here's the background:
My house is smaller, 1100sqft total, 2 floors at about 550sqft. It's a symmetrical rectangular house, where each side at the first floor is split into 10-11ft, and they're "long" sides. So the kitchen/dining room side is a long expansive ~20x10, and same with the living room side. Next is the staircase, which leads up to the upstairs small hallway. The hallway starts with a smaller bathroom, about 50sqft in total floor space when provided with a 2ft by 3ft shower (at the entrance) and a bathtub at the end of the wall (shower is separate from the bathtub). On the wall ajdacent the bathtub is the bathroom vanity, a small 24" with a toilet at the far end of that wall (With a window there, as this 1920s house had a window where the toilet was. I kept this construction all the same). Of course, I'm a little crazy and replaced all of the 1920s cheap windows with moderately lower cost Pella duel pane windows.
Continuing through the hallway is the first bedroom. Originally this was the 'larger room', at a womping...10x10ft. The next room is on the 'right' side of that, sharing the same wall and was originally 10x7, and is now 10x14.
My original design goal changed over the years. It eventually transformed from 2017 to 2019 into "I want a smart home" and "I want it to be comfortable for a family living". Originally, the plan was to rent. But as times got tough for me, I moved in and have been happy living here since.
So for each room, I ran 14 gauge speaker cable through the walls. In most of the rooms, it's just to a singular in-ceiling speaker that has an in-wall Pyle Bluetooth controller to it (Which I soldered up to be hardwired instead of the power supply). The reason was to add Google Homes or Amazon Alexa's to the walls, eventually I'll add those in place, but for now it's used for my cell phone and background music.
Additionally, in the living room I ran a normal 7.2 surround setup for that speaker cable, with an additional 4 overhead in-ceiling locations. The purpose was a 'true' 7.2.4 Atmos experience. In the bedrooms, I ran a traditional 5.2 setup, with 2 ceiling atmos speaker configurations. Let me tell you, I don't regret this for a moment. Instead of 'just sound proofing these two rooms, I decided to just go the distance with most of the house.
Currently in 2022 I'm nearly finished with the project. The only thing I have left as far as 'construction' is concerned is baseboards and decoration, such as building furniture. I went with butcher block countertops, homedepot east haven cabinets i modified to allow recessed LED smart lighting, and ive already built a few additional cabinets utilzing a lower end table saw and a few tricks ive learned across youtube to do this.
I work in IT, not even remotely close to 'construction' and it's my 'weekend hobby', when I'm not working on my car, playing drums or finding something else to get into, at least.
But with my project nearly complete for 'construction', now it's just wood working, potentially some unique welding ideas for furniture, or some cool smart home ideas...I really need to get back to utilizing home assistant like i did in my apartment, as that's one thing I'd love to pair up with the number of smart devices i have around the house. I just need to 'get there'.
Also, it looks like we actually have this at my local home depot. When I add some walls up in my basement, I may consider this 100% since it'll certainly, almost 100% guaranteed, save me a TON OF MONEY compared two two thick green boards drywall lol.
Ahh man, I wish this was uploaded a few months ago before I already started building my sound booth. Alternating studs to reduce sound transmission is such a great idea
This is fantastic and timely with my basement finishing plans for this year!
I've seen these in Home Depot before, but this gives a good breakdown/comparison over other soundproofing options, thanks for the info.
Thanks for the tips, in this one & other videos. As a musician I avoid seeking other musicians' advice when it comes to acoustic treatment (they seldom know what they are talking about, unless they are old school sound engineers) and I really appreciate your resourcefulness.
My brother recently finished renovating his basement and built an office / music room with a layer of Sonopan and the sound floor in that room is so low you can feel it.
I have done 2 soundproof walls and 1 soundproofed ceiling with safe n' sound and pink insulation in between the floor joists, then resilient channel, sonopan, and finished up with 5/8 drywall. Same deal but with no resilient channel for the wall in betwen a den and master bedroom downstairs with a 1ft gap in between two walls built the same. Works great so far, even though my project is still in process you can already tell how good it works.
I use this product 20 years ago, it is great.
Love your videos! Can't wait to renovate my new unfinished basement!
Cheers!
Great video, I’m looking at adding sound reduction in my basement theater. 13 x 15 x 8.5. Priced it out to about 1000$ for the Sonopan and drywall. Very affordable. Looking at Home Depot Canada. Extremely helpful. Thanks!
took a number of tries/videos.... but i think you/we now have it. Thanks
Thats pretty clever cutting into the next stud to know where to cut that!
I don’t even own my own home yet (thanks current market) but I’m in love with this channel! Thanks Jeff for the education.
I’m on the same boat ! Market is crazy!
@@andrespacheco1141 insane. Hopefully in the next 2 years something tanks the market.
Such a shame you can’t get this in the States…. What a GOD send. I’m trying to build a drum room to be silent at any time of day (or night), and this would bring it within reach. As it stands now, I’d have to do the MLV, and green glue, and ultra thick drywall…..it’s just too much at the moment. Glad to know that these products keep evolving. GREAT video!
OMG don't know how I missed this on January. I found this in a book I've had since 2009. I've included this exact construction (adding sonopan from the assembly in my book.) on a detail in my permit drawings for my basement reno I'm starting. But saved me from a big mistake: I was going to use Rockwool.. Didn't realize I couldn't weave it serpentine) Thanks for pointing that out!
Your picture was in a full page TH-cam advertisement in the globe and mail on Saturday February 26 . Good for your channel. Good work.
These are the most interesting videos. The STC videos. We live in a condo with concrete separation between units. Very quiet already, generally a db of 31. Though, quieter is better.
Nice video. I did some similar work helping a rehearsal space owner in LA. ~Same as you show, however he also had me use a fairly thick neoprene gasket material between the bottom and top plates. We tested it against the pre-existing room builds with standard construction and the difference was night and day.
@avidfuzzpedals, did you mean you put a layer of neoprene btw the subfloor and bottom plate to help with noise reduction?
@@homecompter5646 Yes. 2x6 plates with the staggered stud framing as you demonstrated, but also the gaskets between subfloor. We also used a lot of construction adhesive on the studs when hanging the drywall, which allowed for less drywall screws. This gave a bit more of a dampening effect when the sound waves hit the drywall. Slightly less vibration is transferred to the framing as opposed to drywall hung directly to bare studs with screws only.
have to keep this in mind ofr finishing my basement. I want it to be sound proofed as much as possible. this seems way easier than glues and tons of dry wall.
This is great, I have been looking for options for my Family room, this will work great. Now have to figure out how to stop sound from traveling through hallway into the room. One step at a time. Thanks
Came across your Facebook videos, and just recently started following. I appreciate how easy you make things to understand for us homeowners. Enjoy the tips & tricks too. Gives us non construction workers more confidence in doing this type of work when it's so much easier to understand and follow.
This is perfect for my business basement Thank you . You have saved me 10.000 dollars.
Glad I could help! Cheers!
Everyone agree this CLIP made our day:
Cool stuff. The phone in your box in the beginning only produces high and mid frequencies. How does it block low frequencies? Seems like you need mass for bass blocking, and that stuff doesn't look very heavy?
I've used Sonopan in my Home cinema room, 20 years ago, in Quebec. Way to go. Good job!!
This is a great process to sound proofing a space. I wish I knew about this when I was building two video studios a few years ago.
Planning a music studio build-this is great info!
Great video. Wish I had access to this project during my DIY Home Theater project last year. I did get good results, but that was a TON of 5/8 drywall to carry up to the third floor. I lost friends over that task. Lol.
Your cracking me up dude! I have hauled tons of 5/8 drywall up to my apartment ~50 sheets. If you still have any friends left, they are really good people!
STC ratings are only measured between 125 and 4000, while low end sound which is the absolute hardest to isolate/block (i.e. bass guitar, drums etc) lives at 100 or below. With that in mind, try placing a subwoofer in your “magic box” and turning it up the next time that you run a test rather than your cellphone.
I’ve watched a few of your videos and you, sir, are awesome. Your knowledge passion is incredible to see. Thank you!!
Thank you for this. I live in a townhouse and next door neighbor has installed a surround sound during Christmas. They've been driving me crazy and I've been trying to think of what I can do. I will look into this.
We did it last year. It is not that good if your neighbours in the townhouse are very noisy! But it helps.
Love the SONOpan material vs. MLV; it seems so much easier. No resilient channels required.
Totally agree!
Thanks for showing this. I'm looking into finishing a room in my basement with some soundproofing. It's below the dining room and the kids are constantly running through there and shouting. Right now, you can hear EVERYTHING below. I want a little room for my wife to retreat to and get some peace, even if just for 15 minutes every once in a while.
I've been using Sonopan in Montreal for about 20 years. It's a great product. However, I did use double-layer 5/8" drywall with z-channel (with green glue) on some projects. Yes, I know it's overkill, but I did notice a difference. But Jeff is right, it's not worth the price difference for standard construction. Though code-wise, you need 2 layers of 5/8" between a neighbor's wall anyway. But if you're doing a recording studio (which I did), I went up to 3-layers sandwiched with green glue, and mass-loaded vinyl (I had a noisy neighbor, and street noise was quite problematic). It's also important that the drywall doesn't come in contact with the floor, ceiling, and adjacent walls. Give it a 1/8" to 1/4" gap, filled with acoustic caulking. Soundproofing putty is also important for electrical boxes. Important, get electrical box extenders for each box. Oh, and don't forget the door: depending on your needs, get at a minimum a solid-core door. If you have windows in that room and want to reduce noise to and from the outside, have your windows customized with double or triple-pane laminated glass.
There's also another product out there that replaces regular drywall, it's called QuietRock. This is made in the USA (available in Canada too). It's expensive drywall, but if you can't get your hands on Sonopan, then this will replace it, provided you get the right thickness for the STC rating you want. Each sheet is basically prelaminated drywall with a green-glue-like compound embedded, but in 1/2", 5/8", and even 1" 3/8 thickness. The STC rating on those is crazy high compared to regular drywall.
For the over-killers in you, if building an ultra-quiet room, such as a recording studio, you can also build a room within a room. I used this principle when I build 2 studios in the past. Now that is only useful if you're doing critical sound recordings.
Having said all that, this sort of construction is to avoid sound contamination to and from the room. But if you're creating a studio, don't forget to do sound treatment by adding acoustic paneling to the walls. Otherwise, your room will sound echoey with all sorts of standing waves and reflections. In which case, you don't want your room to be perfectly square. But that is a whole other subject.
Great Information. Maybe Jeff can pin this at the top of the comments
That’s some GREAT info. I’m trying to build a small drum-room in the corner of my garage, and this product would be perfect. But, I’m in the states. I’ll check out that Quietrock, you mentioned. Maybe that would simplify what I’m trying to do.
@JimBobBek I've heard of building a room within a room, and am also building a drum room/studio as the other commenter mentioned. What I'm wondering is when you say raise the flooring also, how do you minimise the transference of vibrations through the points of contact to the original floor? And also, what method would be used? A layer of battening? Many thanks for all the info!
Quiet Rock works.
Biggest thing overlooked is the holes drilled in the drywall for recessed lights. Sonopan is nice because you can just drill or cut slits to feed wire through and then caulk the hole.
Hey jeff i got an old camper when the weather gets better i want to tear it down and rebuild it with home construction 2×4s and everything your vids really do help alot in the planning and knowing how it should be done thanks alot
this is going to be so good for my slau... drums studio*
🍻
Slaughter room? I think he meant slaughter room. Like to slaughter someone in.... because of the noise.
Well that's not good 😐
🤣
I like to do my “laundry” loudly (himym reference)
This vid is produced well. The editing and dialogue work together to make this info and instructions clear.
I have a question: How can you 'soundproof' between two rooms (upstairs/downstairs) in a house built in 2010?
*WOW Those results were super impressive, I might have to use this technology for a project I have in mind. Thanks for sharing.*
Not trying to question the authenticity, but I'm confused why Jeff's older videos on soundproofing (which use the alternate methods) come across in the same way of "this is the best way to soundproof" when he said here that he's been using SONOpan for years. I'm planning on building a home studio in the next few years, so I just want to make sure I'm taking the optimal approach. Would be nice to have an STC rating or comparison to the other methods. It all still seems a bit speculative. The phone in the box was nice, but a phone's max volume honestly isn't very loud and is mostly pushing higher frequencies (no bass), so it isn't the best indicator of effectiveness.
Agree wholehearted
In all reality, adding resilient channel over the Sonoran is likely a good idea.
My plan is
Pink insulation
Sonoran
Resilient channel or clips
Acoustic caulk
Double drywall
Green Glue TBD
My 17x14’ L shaped room is small enough that this is a reasonable option for me.
@@shawnperepelytz6397 dang you are going all out
@@baxt1412 I enjoy home Theater & loud music. My boys play guitar, bass & drums. This small space will be multi functional so proper home Theater seating will not be priority. Keeping everyone happy will be. :)
@@shawnperepelytz6397 Have you considered adding Mass loaded vinyl too? It would a good chunk of cost depend on the weight of material.
Hello I am from Algeria I follow you and I learned a lot from your videos you the best thanks
I wish this video came out two weeks ago. Literally just finished mudding/taping my ceiling. Would have loved to put this up there
Just need to find an equivalent product in the UK and all will be golden…. About to build a garden music studio and looking for ways to avoid upsetting the neighbours! Great video…. Even if I can’t get it over here! 🤦♂️🤪👍
What did you decide to go for?
As a hobby, I make sound-deadening “wall art” panels, using basic 1”x2” frames, a bit of canvas, and a tapestry or other decorative fabric. I fill the inside with 1” fiberglass insulation, and typically do 3-panel sets. I wish I could get a hold of this kind of material. The panels I make are great for large interior walls in common areas or offices/bedrooms. Measurable sound decrease, but I wonder what it would be like with Sonopan under the surface.
Towels work just as good and are significantly cheaper if you buy them from Salvation Army/Goodwill.
@@jsl6155 I used towels as well, but the problem I found is that for the shape of what I was making, they would slump down. Also, I had spare insulation from previous projects.
I was sound proofing my sons apartment party wall a few years ago as the neighbor loved his music and it already was staggered stud and insulated, I added green glue and 1/2 drywall then more green glue then Quiet rock drywall. It did the trick but was pricey. I wish they had Sonopan out in stores when I did this work.
Major mistake was not securing the R-19 fiberglass batting to the top plate and studs with staples .. Stacking the fiberglass batting and using the friction contact with the studs to hold it in place will NOT be maintained over time. Eventually the fiberglass will slowly sag and compress under it’s own weight, resulting in a 2 foot hollow void at the top of the wall. Some battings have plastic latticing that can be stapled to hold the batting in place.
The lower frequency sounds are a bigger challenge than muffling a phone speaker.
Hey Jeff, big fan. I have noticed on almost all soundproofing videos (not just yours) there’s no mention of doubling the top plate of a framed wall to compensate for the amount of space two pieces of 5/8 drywall or Sonopan with drywall with res channel would take.
Doubling the top plate will provide the needed backing for drywall on your walls.
While this is probably obvious for an experienced contractor, DIY’ers like myself might run into the problem of having to back the framed wall after the fact. ( my situation now) lol.
I’m not following why the top plate needs to be doubled.
As far as I know the drywall and sonopan don’t need to be Screwed into the top plate. I think the studs are enough
@@Werdna12345 your drywall (on your walls, not ceiling) needs to be backed by the top plate of the framed wall. I should have clarified that in my reply thanks.
@@Sticksandstones292 I’m not following why it needs to be backed at all.
The weakest part of the drywall is going to be in the middle and it’s only backed by studs 🤷♂️
it's even better if you use resilient bars between the gypsum panels and the sonopan
Hey Jeff, started my basement Reno about a week ago and after much research found the Sonopan panels. Decided to use a layer of these panels, resilient channel and one layer of 5/8” drywall instead of 2 layers of 5/8” on the ceiling. Also following the installation recommendations and using acoustic caulking around the perimeter. I had decided to use bat insulation around the duct runs and spray foaming around the ductwork where it is installed through the floor (floor registers). Thank you for posting the ‘box’ test as it has reassured me I’ve made the right decision.
And how is the sound transfer now?
@@dafunkdafunk still working through entire basement but I did notice if someone has heavy feet the 'thud' sound still transfers . Will have a better idea once entire basement is done.
@@feliciafoley1035 okay that's good to know thanks! Your solution is the exact way I was thinking of doing mine right away here
How did it turn out? i'm thinking of doing the same as you. Also, how are you mounting lights, speakers, to the ceilings and walls that are decoupled?
the sound deadening is very good but not 100%. As much as I tried to insulate around the ductwork some sound still travels. I mounted pot lights in the drywall, no speakers, and simply put some bat insulation about the installation points. I didn't go to the extent of boxing around and insulating at each of these points. Good Luck!@@gunnu85
your right, saw this at home depot in Toronto the other day…it definitely caught my eye..
Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY it might have been Lowes Canada or Home Depot Canada but I know I saw it... great timing on this video!
Simple to understand and to do. Thanks!
“If you can keep it simple. You can be successful”
YOU are a genius!
Greeting from Yakima, Wa. I've been watching a lof of your videos since we're about to renovate our home. Thanks for all the info, wish us luck.
You are so welcome! Cheers and best of success!
Wow, this is truly amazing! Thank you for demo! I wish this will be available in UK.
Maybe one day!
Saw this product at the big Orange Store the other day and wondered how legit it was. Great video as always, Jeff!
Too legit to quit!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY One question I do have... If you were doing a drop ceiling in the basement (like I plan on doing). Can you cut this product to fit between the floor joists and attach it to the upper level subfloor then supplement it with fibreglass batts and get a worthwhile result? Thanks, Jeff!
lower frequencies, no probs. What about bass?
I’d like to see some info on soundproofing ceilings in a basement. Especially when they contain lights and or hvac. Thanks
that video is coming soon. Cheers!
Excellent explanation
Cheers Guy!
Great timing. I'm about to start a sound room for late night music. Cheers.
this reminds me of The part in Ace Ventura Pat detective, when he is opening and shutting the sliding glass door
You are the man Jeff!!! Thank You
I was recently mesmerized with a soundproofing video Jeff made 4 years ago. This time I found a more recent video that covers soundproofing with new techno that is more affordable.
I have some questions about soundproofing a up/down duplex that has recently been completely renovated with new walls, ceilings and floor covering.
Does Jeff reply to questions here?
Awesome video. It would be super amazing if you could do the same test minus the sonopanels, ie same box, same sound source minus the sono panels. Another cool test would be same box, same sound source, replace sonopanels with 5/8 sheet rock. Just be nice to know which part does the most work lol. Learned a lot watching this video :)
What a charming guy. Dude you should’ve been a movie actor!
IS this something that can be done to existing walls, or would this be something you can only do for new walls? I am looking to soundproof my office and am a bit intimidated on opening up the walls to do this. Open to any suggestions and would love advice.
Question : Regarding a common wall in a semi-detached house. The priority is using the least amount of space possible, so applying a layer directly over the existing wall. Which one provides more effective sound reduction. Sonopan with a layer of drywall or Quietrock with Green Glue ? Also what's your opinion on Green Glue vs Lowes Indoor/Outdoor Adhesive ?
Thanks
km
Curious of the same. Live in an older building with natural sounds through the floor/ceilings. Would adding a layer of the sonopan and drywall directly to the existing ceiling give any reductions.
@@gudspellar3605 I have the exact same issue! Would love to know what would be a good approach to it
We did our bedroom ceiling with sonopan when we renovated our duplex about 13 years ago, my contractor used resilient channel between the sonopan and the drywall.
Works really well for us. Cheers from Montreal.
I've been wondering about that construction. I'm sure it worked excellent but I wonder if this negates the effectiveness of the resilient channel a little bit since when fastened on the bottom of floor joists it allows sound to resonate down the metal channel and cancel out. With that much material i'm sure regardless that you probably achieved good result.
@@jasonfitzgerald6334 it worked out just ok for me,we don't hear walking or such from upstairs, but there is a drain stack that runs down our wall.
Pretty sure the little bit of noise we hear is being transmitted by the stack.
@@sparky1044 Did you use two layers of 5/8" drywall on the sonopan? What type of noise are you able to hear?
@@jasonfitzgerald6334 1 layer of drywall. Hear talking but muffled,nothing too serious.
Try that with a low frequency source, something like 100Hz
Love the cutting hack!
Noice!
You could do external conduit (i.e. emt tubing or wiremould type channels to surface mount boxes) to run electrical for your plugs. Then you would only have one entrance point for your electrical.
This is amazing! We're buying SonoPan based on this. Quick question, the ceiling already currently has some 3 and 1/2 inch fiber glass insulation, pink panels. Could we use these and add more or should they be discarded? What's the pink fiber glass panels that you show on this video?? Thank you so much!!
The frequencies from your phone are pretty easy to stop. If you used a jbl portable blutooth speaker at a moderate volyme that would simulate real soundproofing.
Thank you! That is Awesome! I hope I can get some here in California soon.
Thx so much! I really need this to block some noise
Glad I could help!
Very nice, thanks for this video. I hope the SONOpan becomes available worldwide. Greetings from Denmark^^
Yeah, but I live in Minnesota, and the convoy in Ottawa will probably prevent this sound proofing product from ground transportation across the border to our Home Depots. But it's worth telling my local HD and seeing if it would be possible sometime. Super useful product for a musician like me! And for distance learning, work from home office, etc.
awesome thank you for doing this I'm about to get started on my studio soon im going to do this on the walls between the sound booth and live room and in between the vocal both and the live room thank you again
I loved this information.
Honestly, I did green glue + r19 on 1/2" double layer drywall, and it's damn good. Much better than single 5/8" with insulation. I'm not sure much more could be blocked, as it's only the low frequencies that pass through. But that's all from the framing and concrete walls of the basement
Mass loaded vinyl is what you need to reduce bass frequencies. Lots of dense mass
@@yeeaahBUDDY Would that have to be between the studs and top plates? Cause that's where the vibrations are getting through in my case. Top plate of one wall, basically under the bottom plate of another, with a floor joist and floor of course. That would be a tough retrofit.
Saw your other sound proofing videos and been waiting for one about sonopan, awesome. More importantly what was that song it sounded pretty rad lol
Fight to Win - Sven Karlsson
Hey Jeff,
You're correct (I looked), I cannot get Sonopan in North Texas. I am designing and will soon be building a new studio and, after watching your video on mass loaded vinyl, will be incorporating that into my build. The walls (2X6 base & cap with staggered 2x4 studs 16" OC) and ceilings (12" engineered wooden I-Beam joists) of the studio will have 1/2" outer layer of OSB (studio being built inside shop area), Rockwool, 1/2" layer of OSB, 1-lb MLV, and then a 1/2" layer of "QuietRock" will be final interior wall / ceiling inside the studio. Being a metal drummer, I play loud and would like the ability to play whenever I want, without upsetting the neighbors.
Yes, this is an expensive solution but, if I want to play at 2:00 AM, I don't want the police called on me for disturbing the peace.
Thanks,
Tom