How do u set your downward pressure on feed rollers? I see your screws are out alot farther than mine. I can run softwood no preblem but hardwood is giving me trouble. Thanks
You can play around with them either way to see if it gets better or worse, just make sure to keep them equal. I don’t think I really had to adjust much from the factory if at all. Check these things first before adjusting feed rolls… Make sure your bed is lubed(I use paste wax) Make sure all your knives are sharp. Don’t take too heavy of a cut and don’t have too much pressure on your side pressure roll. All of these will make feeding difficult.
Great setup video. If I understand correct your taking 2mm on the right side but how much can you take on the left side, i.e. what is the board width your starting wide? If you want a 3” wide board are you starting with a board 3” + 4 mmwide? What is the max you can take on the left side? 1/8” per side, but I think 3mm = 1/8”. Just trying to learn more. I have a mp360 but have not used it yet as I have dust collection issues currently.
I typically try to take off equal amounts on both sides but it depends on the profile you’re producing. If I was just doing s4s stock yes about 2mm per side. Part of it depends on how accurate your blanks are. The left cutter is your “cleanup” cutter it sizes to finished width. The balance is finding a nice blank size that the machine doesn’t work to hard needlessly planing away(wasting) wood, and not too little that if you have a slightly undersized blank in the batch that it doesn’t get wasted by not fully planing.
I never had trouble with the chain on mine. It is important to keep the elevation screws clean. If they start to get packed with sawdust it becomes hard to raise/lower the table and I did snap the handle once.
@@hillcustomlumber Yeah, that’s what we thought too. So, we had them take it in and play with it. They took out the elevation screws and remounted the table. Said it was working fine now. We got it back but couldn’t use it for 6 months for personal life reasons. Just tried using it for the first time since it got back from the Wood Mizer and the same darn thing happened again. All we did was mount the houses for the chip extraction unit, remount the table extensions and crank on the handle for the elevation screws. We’re about ready to kick this thing to the curb.
Yes the boards should be ripped straight to get the best finished product and feed easier. I use either my straight line ripsaw or 2 blade edger depending on the job. They could also be straightened on a sawmill.
@@hillcustomlumber Did you consider other moulders manufacturers before getting the woodmizers? Most of your other machines like the northfield are older wondering why you didnt do the same here.
Yes I did lots of research and shopping around online, 3 reasons set me on the woodmizer. 1. I have limited space and run my 3 phase off of a phase converter, a lot of the older machines are too big/too much HP 2. I ran a logosol ph260 for many years so the woodmizer machine was a direct replacement, I was comfortable with what I was getting with little learning curve. 3. I have $1000’s of tooling for the logosol/woodmizer system that would have been lost if I went to another style machine.
@@hillcustomlumber Well said. I forgot how much hp/space the older moulders take. Ive got an extensive rough cut operation but no finishing. Would you recommend the 360 for doing pine siding and flooring? Im thinking it could also fill the role of surface planer until i can add that and other machines later
Woodmizer is getting ready to come out with that Logosol tool.
Yes this style machine really does well with softwood.
We've had great success with carbide. Inserts a steel corrugated backer plate and a carbide tip.
How do u set your downward pressure on feed rollers? I see your screws are out alot farther than mine. I can run softwood no preblem but hardwood is giving me trouble. Thanks
You can play around with them either way to see if it gets better or worse, just make sure to keep them equal. I don’t think I really had to adjust much from the factory if at all.
Check these things first before adjusting feed rolls…
Make sure your bed is lubed(I use paste wax)
Make sure all your knives are sharp.
Don’t take too heavy of a cut and don’t have too much pressure on your side pressure roll.
All of these will make feeding difficult.
With corrugated heads do you have to run corrugated knives or can you run both?
Only Corrugated knives will work in Corrugated heads. They are a thicker, heavier knife than Wood-Mizer style knives.
Great setup video. If I understand correct your taking 2mm on the right side but how much can you take on the left side, i.e. what is the board width your starting wide? If you want a 3” wide board are you starting with a board 3” + 4 mmwide? What is the max you can take on the left side? 1/8” per side, but I think 3mm = 1/8”.
Just trying to learn more. I have a mp360 but have not used it yet as I have dust collection issues currently.
I typically try to take off equal amounts on both sides but it depends on the profile you’re producing. If I was just doing s4s stock yes about 2mm per side. Part of it depends on how accurate your blanks are. The left cutter is your “cleanup” cutter it sizes to finished width. The balance is finding a nice blank size that the machine doesn’t work to hard needlessly planing away(wasting) wood, and not too little that if you have a slightly undersized blank in the batch that it doesn’t get wasted by not fully planing.
Have you had any trouble with the vertical adjustment for the table? I have the 260 and the chain under the table keeps slipping gears.
I never had trouble with the chain on mine. It is important to keep the elevation screws clean. If they start to get packed with sawdust it becomes hard to raise/lower the table and I did snap the handle once.
@@hillcustomlumber It would be nice if saw dust was the problem. We have yet to run a board through it.
Sounds like something is out of adjustment from the factory.
@@hillcustomlumber Yeah, that’s what we thought too. So, we had them take it in and play with it. They took out the elevation screws and remounted the table. Said it was working fine now. We got it back but couldn’t use it for 6 months for personal life reasons.
Just tried using it for the first time since it got back from the Wood Mizer and the same darn thing happened again. All we did was mount the houses for the chip extraction unit, remount the table extensions and crank on the handle for the elevation screws. We’re about ready to kick this thing to the curb.
Hello, I'd like to know what are the sizes of the setting jig
I’m not sure I can translate that tool into text. Maybe you can contact woodmizer they may have them available.
Do you need to straight line rip before to get the boards perfectly straight?
Yes the boards should be ripped straight to get the best finished product and feed easier. I use either my straight line ripsaw or 2 blade edger depending on the job. They could also be straightened on a sawmill.
@@hillcustomlumber Did you consider other moulders manufacturers before getting the woodmizers? Most of your other machines like the northfield are older wondering why you didnt do the same here.
Yes I did lots of research and shopping around online, 3 reasons set me on the woodmizer.
1. I have limited space and run my 3 phase off of a phase converter, a lot of the older machines are too big/too much HP
2. I ran a logosol ph260 for many years so the woodmizer machine was a direct replacement, I was comfortable with what I was getting with little learning curve.
3. I have $1000’s of tooling for the logosol/woodmizer system that would have been lost if I went to another style machine.
@@hillcustomlumber Well said. I forgot how much hp/space the older moulders take. Ive got an extensive rough cut operation but no finishing. Would you recommend the 360 for doing pine siding and flooring? Im thinking it could also fill the role of surface planer until i can add that and other machines later
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