DIY Home Solar ( as low as $1.26/Watt) - geni.us/project_solar WAGO 613 Lever Nuts - geni.us/3QQS1v Chiptoolz Rafter Locator - geni.us/segX Iron Ridge FlashFoot2 - geni.us/lZZjAX DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Good info on rails! Good overview on micro inverters Subbed! Do you have separate videos on each part of the job? Do you have any background videos on micro inverter operating and troubleshooting?
This is, BY FAR, the best video of this sort I've ever seen. I've seen a lot of "conceptual" and partial installs, but never any that were this clear and detailed with EXACTLY how to do this. THANK YOU!!!!!
YES. My 6.3KW array cost $10K after the FED rebate. I get 8.3MWH per year in Spokane Washington. I bought the components as a kit and had it installed in only two days. I have had ZERO problems after six years and paid ZERO $ for electricity. ❤❤. You can do this.
Really you have a "6.3KW array" which implies just panels, but no cost for batteries? How do you pay ZERO" for electricity with no battery bank? LOL I call BS. 10 grand for 6.3KW isn't a bargain BTW. Panels keep getting cheaper by the day. You can buy 12.4KW of Aptos panels for $4500 an inverter for $1400 and battery bank for $1150 X3 plus cables and mounts = 10 grand. The "FED rebate" must not be very high.
That’s only 22.72kW per day. I use 80kW daily in the summer and the power company won’t allow anymore than 6kW back fed on grid at 1/6th the price per watt, so I would need a much different system than yours. Also, $10,000 is expensive for a 6K system. Sixteen 380W panels and a 6k inverter would run about $3,575 shipped. You either paid $6,500 for mounting brackets and wires, or you got robbed.
I installed my own solar system in Thousand Oaks California. The big challenge for me was the permit; I'd never applied for one before. I filed the permit application and started my Net Metering 2.0 application with Southern California Edison months before the cutoff deadline, but the city of TO took 9 MONTHS to issue the permit. When I passed final inspection I was able to complete my NEM 2.0 application, but when I logged into SCE, I found the application I'd started months ago had been deleted, even though I'd paid the fee. It took a lot of complaining, but SCE finally allowed my to get NEM 2.0. BTW, I asked the inspector how many DIY solar jobs he'd seen and he replied "you're it."
Yeah, something tells me I might be the only DIY solar install in my area as well. 9 months is insane for issue a permit, simply unacceptable. My city took 24-48 hours and I give them a lot of credit being so on top of the permits.
@@ProximusTrinitas this question is ambiguous because it's going to depend on things like how many panels you're installing, if you're putting it on your roof and how much space you have on your roof, whether or not you use a battery system and how many batteries, what size inverter you're using, etc. what you would have to do is call an installer to do an estimate and then compare it with how much it would cost you to purchase the materials yourself. Also there is labor on your side and it's free in the sense that you don't have to pay for it but it's not free in the sense that it still consumes your time and effort and if you're not savvy Jen you may take even more time as you run into unforeseen hurdles.
I will never attempt to take a project like this on my own. I will do it with someone though. I tell you one thing that you are a genius if you don’t know by now. This was another amazing project explained. Thank you for w
A lot to think about, … before actually committing to placing solar panels on one’s home or rental property. … Thank you for showing us “the complicated web of information” that needs to be considered beforehand.
Use a couple of large neodymium magnets either side of the rafter, and another couple of magnets on a jig to match them, and use it to find where they snap together - then drill through the hole on the jig and it should be exactly in the center of the rafter. Another way is to light a fire underneath and use a thermal camera to spot the rafter! 🙂
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I have been researching doing my own diy solar. It is the only way I can get the payback quick enough to make sense. It is so straight forward, I can't believe the quotes I have been getting vs diy. These solar companies make it seem like they are building a space shuttle for you, lol.
😂, yeah there are some dollars to cover marketing, sales, and labor that you can avoid going DIY. I have another ground mount grid-tied system coming up in the next couple months 👍
Loved this video Scott. Enphase is really gaining more popularity depending on the customer's needs. I really liked how you broke everything down from the wiring, to how all of the Enphase pieces work together. Very educational stuff. You're killing it!
This was an amazing breakdown. Doing a comparison of my California permitted installed in a rural county the amount of little details that are needed make it so hard to get DIY in California. California Specifics include: Rapid Shutdown Requirements Proper wiring clips Different rules on setbacks (Some of them more positive to installs) Armored conduit on DC circuits in the attic Proper labeling Map plague diagram at Main Panel Proper Cut Sheets, Site Plan and Wiring Diagrams to get the permit (I used GreenLancer and it looked like a Pro Diagram) After all of the small things I made sure to not miss the inspector came out, checked my disconnects and stickers and signed off on it never once getting on the roof or checking my attic.
Awesome full install video. I used Enphase micros and Iron Ridge for my 2nd array - very easy to install and negates shading issues (I have a chimney sometimes in the way of 2-3 panels but in the summer it's not even in the way!). Hardest part was drilling the first hole in my roof through the rafter. I used a hammer to locate them well and only missed 1/16 of my pilot holes. Simply drilled 3/4" over from it and the micro flashing covered the bad hole (along with a drop of caulk). I don't like the idea of ruining shingles and removing nails so I used Quickbolt 2 microflashing, easier to place anywhere along the rafter and less work! No leaks or problems at all and I am at 4.5 years. I did find it interesting how many more roof penetrations you had to do but it looks like part of that was from your horizontal orientation (some panels cannot be installed that way, read the instructions), and some was do to needing splices. My 14ft rails didn't need any splicing. Anyway just throwing out a few things I did differently in case that's helpful to someone. I also ran metal conduit off the back rail because it was right at the back of my house where I needed the disconnect and to go into the basement for my main panel. I would definitely recommend all the products you used here! Like I said, no issues with any of my equipment so far!
You do a great job with your videos. You give so much excellent, detailed information on all areas of this job. I think this is the best installation video I have seen on any topic.
I’ve done >10 projects helping neighbors here in CT. Overall, great overview showing the installation process. Especially helpful for people to understand how it protects from leaks. 3 notes: in our area it’s mostly 16” spacing of rafters so if you’re seeing 24”, it must be a regional thing, using optimizers on panels and one inverter at the ground level helps keeps the equipment most likely to require maintenance in a convenient location, installing a 2nd socket for the utility to place a special meter measuring Solar electricity output gives valuable information.
My bet on the rafter spacing, it is related to Snow Load. I live in a higher elevation now than I did when I was younger, where I was, 2x4 16" spacing was fine, but here, they want 2x6 16" spacing. And I heard recently that they are now requiring 2x6 studs for at least some projects.
I completed a 2 1/2 year DIY Ground Mount project in May 2024. I started the project because for the first time in 57 years I didn't have anything technical to work on. I ran into unexpected problems in every part of this project. Bright spots were, GreenLancer for prints, NAZ for PowerField Power buckets and Santan Solar for some off brand panels that are working great so far. If you want details about things that were sometimes very difficult I can write it up. It is a long list.
That's awesome you completed a DIY install, and w off brand panels! Smart! I've heard a lot of good and bad about Santan Solar...how was your experience with them? Did you have any hardware performance issues? Did you have any opportunity to test the products before buying or is there a reasonable return policy? Were they freight shipped to your door, or are you in their area and picked it up yourself?
@@zeer0h Santan solar was basically no B.S. with me. They would split a pallet. NAZ seemed to know what they were doing and were pleasant to deal with. The GreenLancer guy I worked with knew more about Solar, by far, than anyone else I dealt with. Hardware; My power company still has Net metering. I was far into my project when I found out my pedestal's original, dating back to 1998, wiring did not meet code. Before I actually started work I had sent excellent pictures of the pedestal wiring to several professionals who saw nothing wrong with how it was wired. But I agreed with the inspector that how it was wired was not acceptable and would require a significant wiring change. In my working career in Phoenix Az I had installed hundreds of cabinets outdoors. I could not bring myself to put a plastic $800 Enphase IQ4 combiner cabinet that has $560 of electronics inside of it, in direct sunlight. Especially with all the crazies with guns where I live. I learned that the system would work just fine without the Envoy, only after I had installed everything. Because my system is ground mount I can easily maintain it without the Envoy. The Enphase Envoy does provide interesting, very useful performance information. I originally thought I would buy just the Envoy without the Combiner but when I figured out how much it would cost to mount the Envoy I bought the IQ4 and mounted it in my detached garage with only the Envoy connected in it. Trenching was insanely difficult because of ROCKS, water lines and sewer line. The first thing I should have bought is a Big SDS-MAX.
@@IOKIYAR For trenching, I watched some folks up in Idaho use an air powered trenching wand, I guess you would call it. Yes, you would still need to break up larger rocks with a bar or jack hammer, but the air wouldn't hurt your pipes or wires.
A length of pvc with a high pressure nozel on it and the garden hose on the other end and blow your way through. You still have to deal with the rocks but it's a lot more fun on a hot summer day
Great video and great install! I really enjoyed seeing the drone view and hearing the explanation behind each step of the process. It’d be great to see the finished product from the drone! Comparing your install to how my company does it in Southern California was the fun part. I can tell that you are in a high-wind area based on your racking and attachment usage. It looks like you are using Ironridge XR100 rails and you mentioned 4ft max spacing. Majority of the residential installs I have seen use XR10 and have a max footing space of 6ft. In addition, while I can’t speak to every single jurisdictions’ code requirements, there are a few things that we like to do that can be life savers for the future. First, regarding the electrical connections in the junction boxes on the roof, we like to use waterproof wire nuts for the hot connections. No matter how highly rated your junction box is, if you are using glands, you will get water in the junction box. It’s frustrating, but multiple times I’ve come back to an install and saw a nice puddle of water just sitting in the j-box waiting to ground or short a connection after the next rain. Placing it under the module helps significantly, but is not always a guarantee that it will not happen. Second, as a means to counter any water build-up because of water intrusion, weep holes are a common requirement that I have been called out for in a number of our inspections. To code, I believe they should be between 1/8 and 3/8 inch diameter and need to be in the back or lower parts of the walls of the junction box. One is a must, but two just in case one gets plugged from the outside. Lastly, in regarding the ground bonding for your system, it is best to use a permanent or semi-permanent connection rather than a simple ground bar. While these are not grounded systems, it helps to have bonding that can withstand whatever you throw out it. We like to use thin wall C tap compression connections to bond any ground connections that are made in the j-box, components, and in the main (strip a section of the solar system ground and c-tap to the main panel grounding wire, and then land the end of the solar ground on the main bar). Not saying these are code requirements, but after seeing what can happen despite your best efforts to ensure everything is installed certifiably, I recommend that any DIYer do these little things. And going back to your install, really highlight the need of mapping your micros, or optimizers if you are using a string inverter. If you ever need to trouble shoot your system, and you most likely will, this will save you so much headache. It especially helps if you are solo on the roof trying to remove modules that are now covering your modular components. Good luck with your inspection and I hope your utility grants your permission to operate soon, or whatever they may call it in your area! Looking forward to the next video once it starts cranking
Thanks for all the great feedback. I actually noticed EX Solar updated the junction box since the last one I installed and they added weep holes to the bottom on both sides. I agree on the mapping and bet a lot of DIYers would miss that part.
This is great if you don’t mind getting up on your roof for any potential issues in the future. Otherwise, find a reputable (not a door to door high pressure salesperson) with reasonable pricing and go with them.
I'm just starting to research the viability of installing solar on my house. Your video is fantastic. Everything makes sense, and it definitely looks like a project I could take on myself. Even the electrical, although I would probably hire a pro for that.
@ 28:52. I see you have a window unit using the accordion gap fillers. You should get some insulating foam boards & place them on the outside in front of the gap fillers. It will greatly reduce the air gap it creates. A lot of hot air leaks in from those. Then tape off the back with weatherproof tape & something to make it not stand out so much.
Great video! I am looking to do a similar project at my home in Southwest Michigan. As a DIY person I am trying to determine the way to go. I am glad you showed a DIY approach for roof mounted solar on a shingled room. I am looking forward to hearing how the inspections and untility approval goes.
Inspection is scheduled for tomorrow at 2:30. I will release a more condensed version of this video over on Everyday Home Repairs this week and also include the results of the inspection.
Scott, although the rails can be installed on either side of the mounting foot, I spoke with my design company and they agreed that mounting the rail on the top side of the foot would make it stronger. I initially installed mine on the downside before realizing it and changed them before putting the panels on.
Yeah, my thought was to hide the hardware from the ground. I am curious how mounting on the top with hardware facing down helps with the overall strength 🤔.
@@everydaysolar well you use the strength of the foot to hold the weight of the rail when it's on the upside instead of just the square bolt that slides into the channel when it's on the downside.
That is correct, it is probably another $2K-$3K of labor on a roofing job. Not sure how this will all pan out as more and more roofs come up for replacement with panels installed. Will the roofing company build up their skills or will you need to call in a solar company to facility the removal and reinstall.
This DIY video is absolute gold. More please. ❤ Question. I bought my house 2yrs ago. A previous owner pre-paid for a 5kW/12panel+ 1 inverter system w/20yr Lease. I took over the lease 11-12yrs left on it, managed by Spruce Power. Called them, verified that I can expand without affecting their lease. BUT how do I expand the system to get get the solar credits this time around?
Thank you for the helpful video. I was wondering how you ' commissioned ' the micro inverters. Is it possible to do that as a do it yourself home owner? If so how?
Can we get a list of materials and parts like panels, rails, boxes, etc, a list from Enphase I have researched this products , does Enphase help with design? Thank you for all your videos I follow most that you have produced!
Curious if you have considered doing a video about the roof shingle style solar "panels" compared to roof mounted panels. My roof is 20 years old (concrete tile) and may need to be replaced soon. The shingle style panel is appealing. Love the channel!
Scott, I've seen loooots of your videos, and this has got to be my new favorite. This is the best DIY roof top solar install video I've ever seen. Thank you!!!!!! Here's another video idea: common reasons your roof should get replaced before installing rooftop solar! Things to look out for, reasons to call in an expert first, etc.
One thing to keep in mind is "bird management". I installed panels on my house in Tucson and a couple of years later found out that several rat-birds (also known as "pigeons" built several nests under them. Had to install plastic mess around them to keep the rats out of the thing.
Safety First, Be careful working in the Breaker panel! Also best practice is to run a larger wire from the Combiner box (6AWG) to the breaker panel to make it easier if the system is expanded. Then the only thing on that side that would have to change is the size of the breaker in the panel and and new circuit to the solar panels.
I loved the video. It makes this type of project seem very approachable. I love solar, but have been hesitant to pursue it for my home because i didn't think i could manage it myself. based on this video, i might try it. it would be helpful to know the size home you're installing this for, and perhaps overall cost (even if you're given a break on your price, what could i expect trying to do the same thing?)
The home is only 1300 sq ft and here is a little more information on the timeline and cost at the end of the video th-cam.com/video/hBvb1qq2O3g/w-d-xo.html
@@everydaysolar omg you actually replied to my comment! thanks! also, thanks for making all these videos. i've saved an unknown amount of money from watching your videos. i recommend you to everyone i can.
If you have squirrels (tree rats) near you and can't install the rails vertically up the slope of the roof, you should install squirrel guard around the perimeter (minimum).
Thanks for your video. I'm looking to DIY my own system in Southern California. Just starting. Would love to hear about the things I need to be cautious and prepared for beyond just the nuts and bolts of the whole system. Maybe some horror stories of newbie installers experience.
When it comes to horror stories I think that would be mostly around permitting and inspections. You need to understand your code and your local inspector. Proactively reaching out to your inspector is probably not a bad idea and that is also why I went with Project Solar to help design and pull permits. My inspector, asked me "which company are you with" and I told him I was just the home owner where he then told me this was a first that he had a homeowner install their own solar system. Overall he was very nice and approved my install without issue but it isn't always that smooth.
Does it snow where you are, because it snows a lot where I live. Just wondering if there are more things I need to consider if I try installing solar the way you did it. Regardless of the answer, you video was absolutely excellent, and answered most of my questions on how you can put holes in your roof without it leaking.
Most municipalities require the system to have a permit and be installed by a licensed contractor. Before assuming you can buy the components and install it yourself, check with your authority having jurisdiction. If a permit and license is required and you fail to comply, and you have a fire, your insurance company will demy your claim.
Thank you for the time and effort put into this video. Very illustrative and helpful! A few questions please, why do we need the output of two micro-inverter arrays to be combined first and then go to the combiner box? Can we wire the two outputs directly into the combiner box and then combine from there? Also, why do we need to wire the outputs through the attic? It seems easier to wire them directly to the combiner box using exterior conduit since both the micro-inverters and the combiner box are on the exterior side. Is it per code requirement?
Using a micro-inverter per panel seems like it would get costly pretty quickly for a larger system. What are the advantages of using per-panel inverter, rather than a string inverter?
In my area Enphase micro inverters are very common for roof-mounted installation. You need rapid shutdown to meet code all the way up to the panel so even if you go with a string inverter you will have power optimizers at each panel to help with shade but also to provide the needed shutdown capability to meet code.
Thank you for the great information on a DIY install. I am definitely going to do my own install. One question: Why are you recommending a Micro Inverter system over a Hybrid Inverter? In my case, I'm doing a 12Kw system with 30 panels. A micro inverter on every panel plus a combiner would cost over $7000 (and that doesn't even include the breakers), but an EV4 18kPV costs less than $5000 (and it does include the breakers). I know you don't have the ability to monitor each panel separately, but more than $2000 is quite a premium for that feature.
First of all you done an excellent job but I would never put holes in my house what if you need to reshingle your house that's a huge cost I'm moving to my small farm I have 5 acres big shop I'm building a roof rack on the ground and I'm not going to hook up to the grid I'll be totally off grid next year I could care less if they give me a dollar or two you still have to pay fees to the Pud even if you don't use any power the puds make the money off of your solar system and sell it to your neighbor total BS and there's about 20 other things I could say but I won't you did an excellent job I learned some things from you thank you PS I've heard of insurance companies canceling homeowners because they compromised the roof.
Nice. I am jealous and also looking at some land now to do a couple ground-mount installations. If you can do ground-mount I totally agree that is the way to go.
This sure does look like a fun project and well done video. I might just watch it again. If you install you own system will you qualify for the govt. tax credit?
In Colorado springs, you have to be an "authorized" contractor to do a permitted solar installation. I'd like to do this diy but not sure how one would get around this.
Ironridge HUG mounts are a bit more forgiving and easier to install. It's flashless, so some people might feel it won't be as solid. Cost is similar and ironridge is a good name. Hoymiles microinverters might have been cheaper for this job. They have 4 panel modules that cost less than 2 single panel modules. Single panel modules give you flexibility that perhaps wasnt needed fir this application.
How do I go about buying this diy solar package but I want someone else to just do the install for me. Do I look for an electrician ? Any recommendations on who would do the install for me if I buy the diy parts
I will release a video on Everyday Home Repairs this week will more on the cost, timeline, and how the inspection went. There will be any update video on this channel as well in a couple months once I get the green light from the utility but just a heads up on the other channel.
I had to give up on the positive/negative designation model since they are on both ends of the leads. On the panels they are output positive and negative and on the cable feed line they are input positive and negative. The quality of the pin metal is very important to look at. Low power solar is not as critical as for high power high current sections.
Thanks for the great info Scott. I rearranged my plan based on your comment about the 36" minimum "fire way" then I bunched my planned 21 panels like yours. Questions: what is the correct panel to panel spacing for the fasteners, I used 0.75" in both directions. Is there a minimum for the panel to the lower edge of the roof line? Thanks for the info and discount code!
Excellent video Scott. Just for clarification since the title to this video says No More Power Bills, 7kw for your entire house seems a bit low and you've not mentioned any storage batteries to power the house after sunset either.
I thought the ground wire had to be continuous (no junctions allowed...) from the main panel, through your "concentrator" up to your PV array. If you have multiple arrays you need multiple grounds.
You could have done a small string inverter like a Solar Edge. This way the system is easily expandable. I have another house where I will be expanding the Enphase setup by adding another 20 Amp branch.
Typical stud finders aren’t accurate at that distance. Unlike drywall on a stud you’ve got layers of shingle, weather guard, and decking before the rafter. I tried it this way on my own install without success. You’re better off tapping with a hammer, but even I ultimately caved and bought the tool in the video.
They make a handy tool called the Magnespot that would greatly help with locating the trust from the other side of the roof. It not a cheap tool that a diy person would want to buy though
Great video man! Quick question - How does DIY'ing this impact the federal tax credits and utility rebates that are available? I'm comfortable doing the install, but I don't want to forego the savings from these programs.
DIY'ing has no impact on the federal tax credit whatsoever. If you ever pursue filing a credit you will see this is nothing more than a dollar figure on line 1 of form 5695, and line 5a if you have batteries.
But if you have trees I’ve seen roofs go bad quick under them. They don’t dry out quick and all the tree litter gets stuck under em trapping more moisture
So the micro inverters eliminate the need for one or multiple inverters that receive from each panel array? Are these more upfront cost effective than a single inverter? If I understand correctly they are more helpful in pinpointing in the event of trouble shooting but the single inverter still will throw a code if there is an issue. Thank you.
Still shocking how expensive this is even if you do it yourself. Looking at the calculator you posted. My 262$ electric bill would be 18k in materials to diy. And still shows I would have a bill in the 70s.
I am looking for design and permit help to DIY myself off of the PG&E/Pioneer combined transport/production rate of $0.61/Kwh (46 cents PG&E, 15 Pioneer). I already have a pallet of Heliene 520w 4' x 8' panels. I am looking to add LiFePO batteries, one or two 5.12 Kwh batteries at a time. I still haven't decided between string, controller, or micro-inverter to go from DC to grid compatible AC. From the site I am not sure if Project Solar an Enphase (or micro-inverter) only and Enphase battery only service. Is it?
My parents have just had 3 quotes for a solar array coming in at 52k,55k and 72k. Absolutely ridiculous prices when I figure about 30k max for what they need. DIY is the only option apparently in Salem Oregon and that would give them a huge amount of solar.
@@everydaysolar Garage roof mounted 71 panels give or take and there is no chance they called for that many. I don’t remember the kilowatts but it was massive. My 5.44kw gets me to zero utility bills and they don’t use much more than I do. Electric bill goes between 400-600 a month
I installed a 4.64 kWp solarinstallation on my roof in Belgium ( Europe) with 14 panels and it only costed me 5k with A-brand solarpanels and inverter ....Chinese products would have been even cheaper... Your quotes at 52k and 72 k is absolutely ridiculous!!!!
just tape a big magnet to the side of your rafter from the attic, then put another magnet on the roof. am i the only person who has thought of this? lol
Hi I have a question. Let's say I want to over panel my power station but I can't find the exact solar panel. For example my 500 watt solar panel is 42 volts can I use a 40 volts 500 watt solar panel to run it in parallel for my powerstation will it still work? Because when u over paneled ecoflow u used two pieces of helium 350 watts panels and they were both the same volts brands etc. Let's say in a case u couldn't find that exact helium 350 watts panel can u use other panel with slightly different volt and run in parallel thanks
I would love to have the confidence to do something like this on my roof. Even though we have a ranch, ours is much higher off the ground, especially the side that would get the majority of the panels since it's over the walk out basement. Shame since we have 3500 sq/ft (not including garage) of space to put panels.
You could hire scaffolding and buy some proper safety hooks and vests - makes it a lot safer and easier to get the panels up, though I'd still suggest having help with that part.
I went inside of my attic and drove a screw up right next to the rafter. From that point I knew where all the rafters were. When I finished, the flashing covered the hole left by my initial screw. My biggest issue was my roof pitch. Is 8/10 and very steep. Not fun!
DIY Home Solar ( as low as $1.26/Watt) - geni.us/project_solar
WAGO 613 Lever Nuts - geni.us/3QQS1v
Chiptoolz Rafter Locator - geni.us/segX
Iron Ridge FlashFoot2 - geni.us/lZZjAX
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Good info on rails!
Good overview on micro inverters
Subbed!
Do you have separate videos on each part of the job?
Do you have any background videos on micro inverter operating and troubleshooting?
This is, BY FAR, the best video of this sort I've ever seen. I've seen a lot of "conceptual" and partial installs, but never any that were this clear and detailed with EXACTLY how to do this. THANK YOU!!!!!
This is a really great video, almost no one shows how to actaully do the whole installation. Subbed.
Welcome to the channel 👍
I have been following this channel and never subscribed. Sometimes you just forget so right there with you 👍🏻👍🏻subscribed
YES. My 6.3KW array cost $10K after the FED rebate. I get 8.3MWH per year in Spokane Washington. I bought the components as a kit and had it installed in only two days. I have had ZERO problems after six years and paid ZERO $ for electricity. ❤❤. You can do this.
Thanks so much for the feedback and nice work on the system 🙌
Really you have a "6.3KW array" which implies just panels, but no cost for batteries? How do you pay ZERO" for electricity with no battery bank? LOL I call BS. 10 grand for 6.3KW isn't a bargain BTW. Panels keep getting cheaper by the day. You can buy 12.4KW of Aptos panels for $4500 an inverter for $1400 and battery bank for $1150 X3 plus cables and mounts = 10 grand. The "FED rebate" must not be very high.
@@tonyinfinityNet metering is probably how they are paying nothing for power. Just a guess, maybe they’ll get back to us and let us know.
That’s only 22.72kW per day. I use 80kW daily in the summer and the power company won’t allow anymore than 6kW back fed on grid at 1/6th the price per watt, so I would need a much different system than yours.
Also, $10,000 is expensive for a 6K system. Sixteen 380W panels and a 6k inverter would run about $3,575 shipped. You either paid $6,500 for mounting brackets and wires, or you got robbed.
@@tonyinfinityI think he means net $0. In summer/winter he probably pays $50, but gets a credit in off seasons from net metering.
I installed my own solar system in Thousand Oaks California. The big challenge for me was the permit; I'd never applied for one before. I filed the permit application and started my Net Metering 2.0 application with Southern California Edison months before the cutoff deadline, but the city of TO took 9 MONTHS to issue the permit. When I passed final inspection I was able to complete my NEM 2.0 application, but when I logged into SCE, I found the application I'd started months ago had been deleted, even though I'd paid the fee. It took a lot of complaining, but SCE finally allowed my to get NEM 2.0.
BTW, I asked the inspector how many DIY solar jobs he'd seen and he replied "you're it."
Yeah, something tells me I might be the only DIY solar install in my area as well. 9 months is insane for issue a permit, simply unacceptable. My city took 24-48 hours and I give them a lot of credit being so on top of the permits.
@@everydaysolar what was the savings from DIY and contracting out
@@ProximusTrinitas this question is ambiguous because it's going to depend on things like how many panels you're installing, if you're putting it on your roof and how much space you have on your roof, whether or not you use a battery system and how many batteries, what size inverter you're using, etc. what you would have to do is call an installer to do an estimate and then compare it with how much it would cost you to purchase the materials yourself. Also there is labor on your side and it's free in the sense that you don't have to pay for it but it's not free in the sense that it still consumes your time and effort and if you're not savvy Jen you may take even more time as you run into unforeseen hurdles.
Meredith, I live in the Conejo Valley also. I'm interested in how you dealt with the city of TO and how you prepared your plans and permits. Thanks.
I am planning a DIY solar here in Thousand Oaks as well. Would love some tips and tricks!
I will never attempt to take a project like this on my own. I will do it with someone though. I tell you one thing that you are a genius if you don’t know by now. This was another amazing project explained. Thank you for w
Thanks so much for the feedback. No genius here just a homeowner interested in a number of different areas 👍
A lot to think about, … before actually committing to placing solar panels on one’s home or rental property. … Thank you for showing us “the complicated web of information” that needs to be considered beforehand.
Just completed my diy solar ground mount. 16.2kw with storage. It's been 2 weeks now. Saved over half of what dealer quoted me.
Boom, that is awesome! Did you go through Project Solar or another site/company?
I am finding the same thing,50-60% discount. The solar companies charge so much.
Use a couple of large neodymium magnets either side of the rafter, and another couple of magnets on a jig to match them, and use it to find where they snap together - then drill through the hole on the jig and it should be exactly in the center of the rafter.
Another way is to light a fire underneath and use a thermal camera to spot the rafter! 🙂
Far easier to use big honkin' lasers. They burn a hole and illuminate them at the same time. Just make sure no aircraft are flying overhead. 😅
After watching you peel those shingles up, I am so glad I never let a solar company touch my roof.
Non-issue. The shingles melt back together the first hot day. Walking on the roof probably does more damage.
thats a normal way to do it, theres nothing wrong here
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
I have been researching doing my own diy solar. It is the only way I can get the payback quick enough to make sense.
It is so straight forward, I can't believe the quotes I have been getting vs diy.
These solar companies make it seem like they are building a space shuttle for you, lol.
😂, yeah there are some dollars to cover marketing, sales, and labor that you can avoid going DIY. I have another ground mount grid-tied system coming up in the next couple months 👍
Excellent Video. I am getting ready to do my own solar install. Feeling much better about tackling it after this video!
Great video. This is one of the most comprehensive videos on DIY solar, and I've designed and helped installed half a dozen DIY solar systems.
Thanks for the feedback!
Loved this video Scott. Enphase is really gaining more popularity depending on the customer's needs. I really liked how you broke everything down from the wiring, to how all of the Enphase pieces work together. Very educational stuff. You're killing it!
Thanks for the kind words and appreciate the support 👍
Excellent video Scott - a lot of work went into it.
Thanks, this one took a few hours 😅
This was an amazing breakdown.
Doing a comparison of my California permitted installed in a rural county the amount of little details that are needed make it so hard to get DIY in California.
California Specifics include:
Rapid Shutdown Requirements
Proper wiring clips
Different rules on setbacks (Some of them more positive to installs)
Armored conduit on DC circuits in the attic
Proper labeling
Map plague diagram at Main Panel
Proper Cut Sheets, Site Plan and Wiring Diagrams to get the permit (I used GreenLancer and it looked like a Pro Diagram)
After all of the small things I made sure to not miss the inspector came out, checked my disconnects and stickers and signed off on it never once getting on the roof or checking my attic.
Awesome full install video. I used Enphase micros and Iron Ridge for my 2nd array - very easy to install and negates shading issues (I have a chimney sometimes in the way of 2-3 panels but in the summer it's not even in the way!). Hardest part was drilling the first hole in my roof through the rafter. I used a hammer to locate them well and only missed 1/16 of my pilot holes. Simply drilled 3/4" over from it and the micro flashing covered the bad hole (along with a drop of caulk). I don't like the idea of ruining shingles and removing nails so I used Quickbolt 2 microflashing, easier to place anywhere along the rafter and less work! No leaks or problems at all and I am at 4.5 years. I did find it interesting how many more roof penetrations you had to do but it looks like part of that was from your horizontal orientation (some panels cannot be installed that way, read the instructions), and some was do to needing splices. My 14ft rails didn't need any splicing. Anyway just throwing out a few things I did differently in case that's helpful to someone. I also ran metal conduit off the back rail because it was right at the back of my house where I needed the disconnect and to go into the basement for my main panel. I would definitely recommend all the products you used here! Like I said, no issues with any of my equipment so far!
Good job to all the men doing this by themselves 👍
You do a great job with your videos. You give so much excellent, detailed information on all areas of this job. I think this is the best installation video I have seen on any topic.
Thanks for the feedback and support 👍
I’ve done >10 projects helping neighbors here in CT. Overall, great overview showing the installation process. Especially helpful for people to understand how it protects from leaks. 3 notes: in our area it’s mostly 16” spacing of rafters so if you’re seeing 24”, it must be a regional thing, using optimizers on panels and one inverter at the ground level helps keeps the equipment most likely to require maintenance in a convenient location, installing a 2nd socket for the utility to place a special meter measuring Solar electricity output gives valuable information.
Hey Matt, thanks so much for your feedback. Do you usually use SolarEdge for your string inverters?
My bet on the rafter spacing, it is related to Snow Load. I live in a higher elevation now than I did when I was younger, where I was, 2x4 16" spacing was fine, but here, they want 2x6 16" spacing. And I heard recently that they are now requiring 2x6 studs for at least some projects.
That was very handy, even though roofing and the electrical system is different here it is a great run through of the micro inverter layout and setup.
Thanks, hopefully more examples to come. I really want to do a ground-mount and grid-tied system next.
I completed a 2 1/2 year DIY Ground Mount project in May 2024. I started the project because for the first time in 57 years I didn't have anything technical to work on. I ran into unexpected problems in every part of this project. Bright spots were, GreenLancer for prints, NAZ for PowerField Power buckets and Santan Solar for some off brand panels that are working great so far. If you want details about things that were sometimes very difficult I can write it up. It is a long list.
That's awesome you completed a DIY install, and w off brand panels! Smart!
I've heard a lot of good and bad about Santan Solar...how was your experience with them? Did you have any hardware performance issues? Did you have any opportunity to test the products before buying or is there a reasonable return policy? Were they freight shipped to your door, or are you in their area and picked it up yourself?
@@zeer0h Santan solar was basically no B.S. with me. They would split a pallet. NAZ seemed to know what they were doing and were pleasant to deal with. The GreenLancer guy I worked with knew more about Solar, by far, than anyone else I dealt with.
Hardware; My power company still has Net metering. I was far into my project when I found out my pedestal's original, dating back to 1998, wiring did not meet code. Before I actually started work I had sent excellent pictures of the pedestal wiring to several professionals who saw nothing wrong with how it was wired. But I agreed with the inspector that how it was wired was not acceptable and would require a significant wiring change. In my working career in Phoenix Az I had installed hundreds of cabinets outdoors. I could not bring myself to put a plastic $800 Enphase IQ4 combiner cabinet that has $560 of electronics inside of it, in direct sunlight. Especially with all the crazies with guns where I live. I learned that the system would work just fine without the Envoy, only after I had installed everything. Because my system is ground mount I can easily maintain it without the Envoy. The Enphase Envoy does provide interesting, very useful performance information. I originally thought I would buy just the Envoy without the Combiner but when I figured out how much it would cost to mount the Envoy I bought the IQ4 and mounted it in my detached garage with only the Envoy connected in it. Trenching was insanely difficult because of ROCKS, water lines and sewer line. The first thing I should have bought is a Big SDS-MAX.
@@IOKIYAR For trenching, I watched some folks up in Idaho use an air powered trenching wand, I guess you would call it. Yes, you would still need to break up larger rocks with a bar or jack hammer, but the air wouldn't hurt your pipes or wires.
A length of pvc with a high pressure nozel on it and the garden hose on the other end and blow your way through. You still have to deal with the rocks but it's a lot more fun on a hot summer day
This is the best video what I've watched! Appreciate what you've shared!
Happy to help, more like this to come 👍
Great video. Great instructor
Thanks!
Wow, in your time laps the roof is very soft. Plus you are now adding more weight.
Great video and great install! I really enjoyed seeing the drone view and hearing the explanation behind each step of the process. It’d be great to see the finished product from the drone!
Comparing your install to how my company does it in Southern California was the fun part. I can tell that you are in a high-wind area based on your racking and attachment usage. It looks like you are using Ironridge XR100 rails and you mentioned 4ft max spacing. Majority of the residential installs I have seen use XR10 and have a max footing space of 6ft.
In addition, while I can’t speak to every single jurisdictions’ code requirements, there are a few things that we like to do that can be life savers for the future. First, regarding the electrical connections in the junction boxes on the roof, we like to use waterproof wire nuts for the hot connections. No matter how highly rated your junction box is, if you are using glands, you will get water in the junction box. It’s frustrating, but multiple times I’ve come back to an install and saw a nice puddle of water just sitting in the j-box waiting to ground or short a connection after the next rain. Placing it under the module helps significantly, but is not always a guarantee that it will not happen. Second, as a means to counter any water build-up because of water intrusion, weep holes are a common requirement that I have been called out for in a number of our inspections. To code, I believe they should be between 1/8 and 3/8 inch diameter and need to be in the back or lower parts of the walls of the junction box. One is a must, but two just in case one gets plugged from the outside. Lastly, in regarding the ground bonding for your system, it is best to use a permanent or semi-permanent connection rather than a simple ground bar. While these are not grounded systems, it helps to have bonding that can withstand whatever you throw out it. We like to use thin wall C tap compression connections to bond any ground connections that are made in the j-box, components, and in the main (strip a section of the solar system ground and c-tap to the main panel grounding wire, and then land the end of the solar ground on the main bar). Not saying these are code requirements, but after seeing what can happen despite your best efforts to ensure everything is installed certifiably, I recommend that any DIYer do these little things.
And going back to your install, really highlight the need of mapping your micros, or optimizers if you are using a string inverter. If you ever need to trouble shoot your system, and you most likely will, this will save you so much headache. It especially helps if you are solo on the roof trying to remove modules that are now covering your modular components.
Good luck with your inspection and I hope your utility grants your permission to operate soon, or whatever they may call it in your area! Looking forward to the next video once it starts cranking
Thanks for all the great feedback. I actually noticed EX Solar updated the junction box since the last one I installed and they added weep holes to the bottom on both sides. I agree on the mapping and bet a lot of DIYers would miss that part.
This is great if you don’t mind getting up on your roof for any potential issues in the future. Otherwise, find a reputable (not a door to door high pressure salesperson) with reasonable pricing and go with them.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support!
This is a fantastic video of how to do it yourself. I’m installing the system soon and this is very helpful. Thank you.
Nice, best of luck on your installation. 👊
I'm just starting to research the viability of installing solar on my house. Your video is fantastic. Everything makes sense, and it definitely looks like a project I could take on myself. Even the electrical, although I would probably hire a pro for that.
@ 28:52. I see you have a window unit using the accordion gap fillers. You should get some insulating foam boards & place them on the outside in front of the gap fillers. It will greatly reduce the air gap it creates. A lot of hot air leaks in from those. Then tape off the back with weatherproof tape & something to make it not stand out so much.
Thank you so much for making and sharing this
You bet, more full DIY installs to come 🙌
Talcum powder for wires through tight conduit, works a treat
Great video! I am looking to do a similar project at my home in Southwest Michigan. As a DIY person I am trying to determine the way to go. I am glad you showed a DIY approach for roof mounted solar on a shingled room. I am looking forward to hearing how the inspections and untility approval goes.
Inspection is scheduled for tomorrow at 2:30. I will release a more condensed version of this video over on Everyday Home Repairs this week and also include the results of the inspection.
Scott, although the rails can be installed on either side of the mounting foot, I spoke with my design company and they agreed that mounting the rail on the top side of the foot would make it stronger.
I initially installed mine on the downside before realizing it and changed them before putting the panels on.
Yeah, my thought was to hide the hardware from the ground. I am curious how mounting on the top with hardware facing down helps with the overall strength 🤔.
@@everydaysolar well you use the strength of the foot to hold the weight of the rail when it's on the upside instead of just the square bolt that slides into the channel when it's on the downside.
very nice job on the install, i seen solar panels for sell as little as $0.32 a watts.
truly amazing video! wtf do people do if/when they need to re-shingle the roof? I'm assuming it all has to come back off.
That is correct, it is probably another $2K-$3K of labor on a roofing job. Not sure how this will all pan out as more and more roofs come up for replacement with panels installed. Will the roofing company build up their skills or will you need to call in a solar company to facility the removal and reinstall.
This DIY video is absolute gold. More please. ❤
Question. I bought my house 2yrs ago. A previous owner pre-paid for a 5kW/12panel+ 1 inverter system w/20yr Lease. I took over the lease 11-12yrs left on it, managed by Spruce Power. Called them, verified that I can expand without affecting their lease. BUT how do I expand the system to get get the solar credits this time around?
Does your current system have a string inverter or micro inverters?
Thank you for the helpful video. I was wondering how you ' commissioned ' the micro inverters. Is it possible to do that as a do it yourself home owner? If so how?
Can we get a list of materials and parts like panels, rails, boxes, etc, a list from Enphase I have researched this products , does Enphase help with design? Thank you for all your videos I follow most that you have produced!
If you need a "list" you probably shouldn't be trying this
Curious if you have considered doing a video about the roof shingle style solar "panels" compared to roof mounted panels. My roof is 20 years old (concrete tile) and may need to be replaced soon. The shingle style panel is appealing. Love the channel!
Scott, I've seen loooots of your videos, and this has got to be my new favorite. This is the best DIY roof top solar install video I've ever seen. Thank you!!!!!!
Here's another video idea: common reasons your roof should get replaced before installing rooftop solar! Things to look out for, reasons to call in an expert first, etc.
Thanks so much for the feedback!
One thing to keep in mind is "bird management". I installed panels on my house in Tucson and a couple of years later found out that several rat-birds (also known as "pigeons" built several nests under them. Had to install plastic mess around them to keep the rats out of the thing.
Safety First, Be careful working in the Breaker panel! Also best practice is to run a larger wire from the Combiner box (6AWG) to the breaker panel to make it easier if the system is expanded. Then the only thing on that side that would have to change is the size of the breaker in the panel and and new circuit to the solar panels.
That's odd @28:00 My Enphase M250s required a 12/3 and needed the neutral. I went with a 10/3 upsized.
Super helpful video.
Suggestion for next project - insulate your attic!
Could've used din rail connector blocks in the junction box, the din rail is already there and I'd trust them more than those little connectors
I loved the video. It makes this type of project seem very approachable. I love solar, but have been hesitant to pursue it for my home because i didn't think i could manage it myself. based on this video, i might try it. it would be helpful to know the size home you're installing this for, and perhaps overall cost (even if you're given a break on your price, what could i expect trying to do the same thing?)
The home is only 1300 sq ft and here is a little more information on the timeline and cost at the end of the video th-cam.com/video/hBvb1qq2O3g/w-d-xo.html
@@everydaysolar omg you actually replied to my comment! thanks! also, thanks for making all these videos. i've saved an unknown amount of money from watching your videos. i recommend you to everyone i can.
If you have squirrels (tree rats) near you and can't install the rails vertically up the slope of the roof, you should install squirrel guard around the perimeter (minimum).
Yeah, agree that is a good add to keep the critters out.
Thanks for your video. I'm looking to DIY my own system in Southern California. Just starting. Would love to hear about the things I need to be cautious and prepared for beyond just the nuts and bolts of the whole system. Maybe some horror stories of newbie installers experience.
When it comes to horror stories I think that would be mostly around permitting and inspections. You need to understand your code and your local inspector. Proactively reaching out to your inspector is probably not a bad idea and that is also why I went with Project Solar to help design and pull permits. My inspector, asked me "which company are you with" and I told him I was just the home owner where he then told me this was a first that he had a homeowner install their own solar system. Overall he was very nice and approved my install without issue but it isn't always that smooth.
hi,We can provide solar panel install rail according your panels and roof,would you like to know more info?
Does it snow where you are, because it snows a lot where I live. Just wondering if there are more things I need to consider if I try installing solar the way you did it. Regardless of the answer, you video was absolutely excellent, and answered most of my questions on how you can put holes in your roof without it leaking.
Fantastic step by step video. Thanks for sharing.
Most municipalities require the system to have a permit and be installed by a licensed contractor. Before assuming you can buy the components and install it yourself, check with your authority having jurisdiction. If a permit and license is required and you fail to comply, and you have a fire, your insurance company will demy your claim.
Thank you for the time and effort put into this video. Very illustrative and helpful! A few questions please, why do we need the output of two micro-inverter arrays to be combined first and then go to the combiner box? Can we wire the two outputs directly into the combiner box and then combine from there? Also, why do we need to wire the outputs through the attic? It seems easier to wire them directly to the combiner box using exterior conduit since both the micro-inverters and the combiner box are on the exterior side. Is it per code requirement?
Using a micro-inverter per panel seems like it would get costly pretty quickly for a larger system. What are the advantages of using per-panel inverter, rather than a string inverter?
In my area Enphase micro inverters are very common for roof-mounted installation. You need rapid shutdown to meet code all the way up to the panel so even if you go with a string inverter you will have power optimizers at each panel to help with shade but also to provide the needed shutdown capability to meet code.
Great detailed install, I would be hesitant of putting inverters on the roof, even shaded thats a lot of heat on electronics
Great overall video
Thanks!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the great information on a DIY install. I am definitely going to do my own install. One question: Why are you recommending a Micro Inverter system over a Hybrid Inverter? In my case, I'm doing a 12Kw system with 30 panels. A micro inverter on every panel plus a combiner would cost over $7000 (and that doesn't even include the breakers), but an EV4 18kPV costs less than $5000 (and it does include the breakers). I know you don't have the ability to monitor each panel separately, but more than $2000 is quite a premium for that feature.
First of all you done an excellent job but I would never put holes in my house what if you need to reshingle your house that's a huge cost I'm moving to my small farm I have 5 acres big shop I'm building a roof rack on the ground and I'm not going to hook up to the grid I'll be totally off grid next year I could care less if they give me a dollar or two you still have to pay fees to the Pud even if you don't use any power the puds make the money off of your solar system and sell it to your neighbor total BS and there's about 20 other things I could say but I won't you did an excellent job I learned some things from you thank you PS I've heard of insurance companies canceling homeowners because they compromised the roof.
Nice. I am jealous and also looking at some land now to do a couple ground-mount installations. If you can do ground-mount I totally agree that is the way to go.
Excellent job! I would recommend that you add a schematic of the electric hookups.
Thanks for the feedback!
This sure does look like a fun project and well done video. I might just watch it again. If you install you own system will you qualify for the govt. tax credit?
Yep for sure on the 30% tax credit. In Illinois we have renewable energy credits and that one we are trying to work through now.
In Colorado springs, you have to be an "authorized" contractor to do a permitted solar installation. I'd like to do this diy but not sure how one would get around this.
Bummer, in our area if you own the house you can pull permits and do the work. Just passed inspection yesterday 👍
Congratulations! You did a great job on your install.
Ironridge HUG mounts are a bit more forgiving and easier to install. It's flashless, so some people might feel it won't be as solid. Cost is similar and ironridge is a good name.
Hoymiles microinverters might have been cheaper for this job. They have 4 panel modules that cost less than 2 single panel modules. Single panel modules give you flexibility that perhaps wasnt needed fir this application.
cool video. it's kind of shocking how much that roof is deflecting as you move around.
It does have a bit more flex than normal.
How do I go about buying this diy solar package but I want someone else to just do the install for me. Do I look for an electrician ? Any recommendations on who would do the install for me if I buy the diy parts
Depending on where you live the same company (Project Solar) can connect you with local installers. projectsolar.sjv.io/EKmxNn
dude, you been workin out!
This is so cool. Would love to see how much in total you have spent on this project!
I will release a video on Everyday Home Repairs this week will more on the cost, timeline, and how the inspection went. There will be any update video on this channel as well in a couple months once I get the green light from the utility but just a heads up on the other channel.
I have a steel roof……can you do an install for that?
If your steel roof has standing seam, it is the best for solar installation.
Nice install! 👍
I had to give up on the positive/negative designation model since they are on both ends of the leads. On the panels they are output positive and negative and on the cable feed line they are input positive and negative.
The quality of the pin metal is very important to look at. Low power solar is not as critical as for high power high current sections.
Well done. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great info Scott. I rearranged my plan based on your comment about the 36" minimum "fire way" then I bunched my planned 21 panels like yours. Questions: what is the correct panel to panel spacing for the fasteners, I used 0.75" in both directions. Is there a minimum for the panel to the lower edge of the roof line? Thanks for the info and discount code!
You need 36in from the edge, and 18 on each side of the ridge or peak of the roof. 18 + 18 = 36
Ive seen some installs where it seems a panel corne protrudes into that 36". @@BryanM-nd6xj
Excellent video Scott. Just for clarification since the title to this video says No More Power Bills, 7kw for your entire house seems a bit low and you've not mentioned any storage batteries to power the house after sunset either.
Hello, Is there a reason you did not install in portrait? Wouldn’t you reduce the number of mounting points?
I thought the ground wire had to be continuous (no junctions allowed...) from the main panel, through your "concentrator" up to your PV array. If you have multiple arrays you need multiple grounds.
I always see these videos for shingle rooves, but never tile roofs like the vast majority of the homes in the southwest.
Are 'whole house' circuit breakers ever used on the solar installation? Please explain why or why not.
Great video! Where can I get that type of flashing? Thanks!
These are the Iron Ridge mounts I was using Iron Ridge FlashFoot2 - amzn.to/4cIpgUA
Why did you use the combined box given the small install? Wouldn’t it be cheaper to just wire the string directly into the disconnect box?
You could have done a small string inverter like a Solar Edge. This way the system is easily expandable. I have another house where I will be expanding the Enphase setup by adding another 20 Amp branch.
Why not use a stud finder to locate the trusses?
Typical stud finders aren’t accurate at that distance. Unlike drywall on a stud you’ve got layers of shingle, weather guard, and decking before the rafter. I tried it this way on my own install without success. You’re better off tapping with a hammer, but even I ultimately caved and bought the tool in the video.
@@Misterkoll ah got ya, good info . How did your install go ?
Why have the 4x4 junction box in the roof? Shouldn’t the 10-2 from each array come down to the combiner box on the side of the house?
They make a handy tool called the Magnespot that would greatly help with locating the trust from the other side of the roof. It not a cheap tool that a diy person would want to buy though
Great video man! Quick question - How does DIY'ing this impact the federal tax credits and utility rebates that are available? I'm comfortable doing the install, but I don't want to forego the savings from these programs.
DIY'ing has no impact on the federal tax credit whatsoever. If you ever pursue filing a credit you will see this is nothing more than a dollar figure on line 1 of form 5695, and line 5a if you have batteries.
Thanks for sharing!!!
You bet
Or you can toe nail drill from the inside then redrill perpendicular to the outside roof surface in the same exit hole
Great advice I was thinking the same thing
But if you have trees I’ve seen roofs go bad quick under them. They don’t dry out quick and all the tree litter gets stuck under em trapping more moisture
Are you in Ione? I thought we were the only ones with that redicules 36" fire code. I had to remove 10 panels from my design because of it.
What about a ground array?
I should have a complete installation video by early 2025 for a grid-tied ground array 👍
Watching that roof flex has me curious as to how long this will last. Going to need updates.
So the micro inverters eliminate the need for one or multiple inverters that receive from each panel array? Are these more upfront cost effective than a single inverter? If I understand correctly they are more helpful in pinpointing in the event of trouble shooting but the single inverter still will throw a code if there is an issue. Thank you.
Still shocking how expensive this is even if you do it yourself. Looking at the calculator you posted. My 262$ electric bill would be 18k in materials to diy. And still shows I would have a bill in the 70s.
I am looking for design and permit help to DIY myself off of the PG&E/Pioneer combined transport/production rate of $0.61/Kwh (46 cents PG&E, 15 Pioneer).
I already have a pallet of Heliene 520w 4' x 8' panels. I am looking to add LiFePO batteries, one or two 5.12 Kwh batteries at a time. I still haven't decided between string, controller, or micro-inverter to go from DC to grid compatible AC.
From the site I am not sure if Project Solar an Enphase (or micro-inverter) only and Enphase battery only service. Is it?
Went to P.S. through your link and no exemption on deposit. FYI.
My parents have just had 3 quotes for a solar array coming in at 52k,55k and 72k. Absolutely ridiculous prices when I figure about 30k max for what they need. DIY is the only option apparently in Salem Oregon and that would give them a huge amount of solar.
Yikes! How many kW were they quoting you for the system size? Roof mounted?
@@everydaysolar Garage roof mounted 71 panels give or take and there is no chance they called for that many. I don’t remember the kilowatts but it was massive. My 5.44kw gets me to zero utility bills and they don’t use much more than I do. Electric bill goes between 400-600 a month
I installed a 4.64 kWp solarinstallation on my roof in Belgium ( Europe) with 14 panels and it only costed me 5k with A-brand solarpanels and inverter ....Chinese products would have been even cheaper... Your quotes at 52k and 72 k is absolutely ridiculous!!!!
@@KrisseThe 100 percent agree and so I will probably do the install on the roof even though I recently took a fall off a ladder. Good times 👍🏻
@@ibenglish good luck with the solar installation !
just tape a big magnet to the side of your rafter from the attic, then put another magnet on the roof. am i the only person who has thought of this? lol
Hi I have a question. Let's say I want to over panel my power station but I can't find the exact solar panel. For example my 500 watt solar panel is 42 volts can I use a 40 volts 500 watt solar panel to run it in parallel for my powerstation will it still work? Because when u over paneled ecoflow u used two pieces of helium 350 watts panels and they were both the same volts brands etc. Let's say in a case u couldn't find that exact helium 350 watts panel can u use other panel with slightly different volt and run in parallel thanks
Did I miss the installation of the inverter and the battery management system
Why’d you use 10 gauge for 20A? Just curious the rational
@NextGenEvs probably the distance of cable...size increases over longer distance
I would love to have the confidence to do something like this on my roof. Even though we have a ranch, ours is much higher off the ground, especially the side that would get the majority of the panels since it's over the walk out basement. Shame since we have 3500 sq/ft (not including garage) of space to put panels.
You could hire scaffolding and buy some proper safety hooks and vests - makes it a lot safer and easier to get the panels up, though I'd still suggest having help with that part.
I went inside of my attic and drove a screw up right next to the rafter. From that point I knew where all the rafters were. When I finished, the flashing covered the hole left by my initial screw. My biggest issue was my roof pitch. Is 8/10 and very steep. Not fun!
❤ very nice work ❤❤
Thx!
@@everydaysolar bro welcome to Pakistan 🇵🇰